Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim Brown]

On 10/16/2020 7:39 PM, K8TE wrote:

there is no
solution currently available when using an external antenna switch
(necessary with more than two antennas) with the KPA1500. 


I see it as an issue only when using more than one antenna ON THE SAME 
BAND. I have two antennas for 30, 20, 15, and 10M, and three antennas 
for 160, 80, and 40M. My antenna switching system was developed for the 
KAT500. My long 6M Yagi goes to port #2.


 Unfortunately,

there is no way for the KPA1500 to tell the K3/K3S to use a different drive
level, even when using ANT1 and ANT2 on the same band, but with two
different antennas that require different tuning solutions.

My (not yet implemented) initial solution is to use a macro for band changes
that will drop the drive level based on previously-determined data when
selecting a new band/antenna.  The long term solutions is a computer (Pi,
Arduino, PC, etc.) with the appropriate tables with the data entered from
empirical testing.  I only wish the ability (firmware and hardware) had been
included in the original design.


Yes, that's unfortunate. I think Dick has done a great job with the 
tuner design, with it's capability to switch between multiple trained 
settings for every frequency!


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KPA 500

[Pete Block]

I recently say a listing for a used KPA500. I managed to lose the info. If
it's still availably could you please let me have the info. I'm very
interested.

Pete Block

W2MGE

pete_bl...@comcast.net  

Thanks.

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Dick Dievendorff]

Your K3 stores the power settings. The amp reports when it goes in and out of 
OPER and the K3 (and K4) store two power settings per band, one for the amp in 
STBY, another for amp in OPER. You adjust these levels at the exciter, and 
they’re retained for recall on band switch and power off/on. Mine are typically 
100w for amp in STBY and 25-35w for amp in OPER. I’m primarily a CW guy, but in 
digital modes I often drop down to see who I can reach with good antennas and 
little power.

There are K3 and K4 menu choices for “Per band power” to enable this.

73 de Dick, K6KR

> On Oct 16, 2020, at 19:09, N4ZR  wrote:
> 
> Precisely what I thought, Jim.  The KPA-1500 already adjusts the K3's output 
> power when the amp switches to OPER, from 100 watts in STBY to a preset, much 
> lower value in OPER, but I don't know if they can store and recall drive 
> power levels by band and antenna
> 
> 73, Pete N4ZR
> Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
> at , now
> spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
> For spots, please use your favorite
> "retail" DX cluster.
> 
>> On 10/16/2020 3:54 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> 
>> ...I suspect that, to have the system automatically change power in the 
>> manner that Pete needs, Elecraft would need to write software to remember 
>> and change drive levels from the transceiver on command from the KPA1500.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[K8TE]

I too have the same issue.  I worked with Dick on this, but there is no
solution currently available when using an external antenna switch
(necessary with more than two antennas) with the KPA1500.  Unfortunately,
there is no way for the KPA1500 to tell the K3/K3S to use a different drive
level, even when using ANT1 and ANT2 on the same band, but with two
different antennas that require different tuning solutions.  

My (not yet implemented) initial solution is to use a macro for band changes
that will drop the drive level based on previously-determined data when
selecting a new band/antenna.  The long term solutions is a computer (Pi,
Arduino, PC, etc.) with the appropriate tables with the data entered from
empirical testing.  I only wish the ability (firmware and hardware) had been
included in the original design.

I'll take my KPA1500 to Lubbock next weekend for the CQ WW DX SSB Contest. 
I reconfigure the station's antenna switching to use ANT1 and ANT2 in the
KPA1500.  I carefully choose antennas by band so the two ports use the same
antennas by band and train the KPA1500 tuner appropriately.  The KPA1500 and
2x8 antenna switch follow the IC-7610 band and frequency data.  The hardest
part is prying the KPA1500 out of the station owner's hands so I can take it
back home!

Anyone with near perfect antenna systems (minimal tuning solutions needed)
won't have this problem.  Maybe I'll get there someday?  As Rosana
Rosanadana used to say:  "It's always something."  (not the same without
Gilda Radner voicing it!)

73, Bill, K8TE

P.S.  I have also noticed a big (300-400 Watts) difference in output after a
"long" pause in use (15-30 minutes) along with the difference between
antenna solutions on the two ports for the same frequency.



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[N4ZR]

Precisely what I thought, Jim.  The KPA-1500 already adjusts the K3's 
output power when the amp switches to OPER, from 100 watts in STBY to a 
preset, much lower value in OPER, but I don't know if they can store and 
recall drive power levels by band and antenna


73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the Reverse Beacon Network
at , now
spotting RTTY activity worldwide.
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 10/16/2020 3:54 PM, Jim Brown wrote:


...I suspect that, to have the system automatically change power in 
the manner that Pete needs, Elecraft would need to write software to 
remember and change drive levels from the transceiver on command from 
the KPA1500.

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Re: [Elecraft] Headlights with red lighting

[Fred Jensen]

The lights in the C-130 on our nighttime airborne missions in SE Asia 
were deep red to preserve our night vision, the trip to the jump target 
was in the dark.  The effect of any light above the bottom end of the 
visual spectrum on night vision is dramatic.  I'm a monochromat, I don't 
really know what "red" looks like to everyone else, and my dim light 
vision was really good, but anything higher in the spectrum killed mine 
just like all my troopers.  The fact that I can adjust the LCD 
brightness on my K3 is really cool, I normally run LCD at 2 or 3.


The one problem I have is I can't see the numbers on the keypad keys in 
any light.  Fortunately, I know what the keypad looks like. [:=)


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County


On 10/16/2020 6:37 PM, Dave Fugleberg wrote:

Maybe if I tried
it with a short strip of red LEDs it would be better.

Kinda reminds me of the red lights we used in the darkroom when developing
film back in the day...




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Re: [Elecraft] Headlights with red lighting

[Dave Fugleberg]

Watching this thread with some interest, as I use my K3 to drive
transverters when roving in VHF contests, and it's hard to see the front
panel controls at night. I tried making a light with a bit of aluminum
angle stock and a short strip of white LEDs (the kind that come on a long
roll), but even with a dimmer in line it was too bright.  Maybe if I tried
it with a short strip of red LEDs it would be better.

Kinda reminds me of the red lights we used in the darkroom when developing
film back in the day...

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 1:04 PM W3AB  wrote:

> Black Diamond & Petal are two companies that make them. Not necessarily
> inexpensive but you get what you pay for. They have been very robust during
> my useage.
>
> ⁣___
> Sent from my two way wrist watch
> 73 de W3AB/GEO​
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[Elecraft] K2 Problem

[w2bvh]

I've got a problem with my K2 and would like some advice. S/N is around 
1500, and I built it in mid 1999. No problems with it since.


The problem started with a complaint from a nearby (8 miles away) ham. 
He was seeing regularly spaced spurs across his passband when I 
transmitted FT8 (with a XV50 - 6 Meter transverter). I double checked 
his complaint with a friend who is around 35 miles away. He saw the same 
thing but the offending signal (of course) were much weaker.


I did a LOT of debugging of the system, assuming ground loop(s) were 
causing the problem. I actually found and fixed some problems with 
ground, but there are still spurs.


Recently I decided to stop focusing on ground and just simplify my 
setup, which is quite complex (2 IF rigs, 7 transverters and multiple 
power amps). Box by box, I disconnected things until I was left with 
just the K2, a straight key and a dummy load. The spurs are still there. 
Even the transverter is not connected. And to make sure that grounding 
is not an issue, I powered the K2 for awhile off a battery. Probably 
more interesting, the spurs are there even when the K2 is set for CW!


With the K2 set to CW and 28.100 MHz, the significant spurs are (with 
respect to the carrier):


+558Hz -39.2 dB

+296Hz -36.7 dB

+178Hz -25.6 dB

-178Hz -25.5 dB

-306Hz -39.0 dB

-558Hz -40.0 dB

I also ran the K2 set for SSB  with a 2-tone generator into the mic port 
and the IMD looks fine .. around -29.5 dB). But those same spurs are 
present on either side of both tones. (I  didn't take actual 
measurements but by eyeball it  looks like the same pattern as with CW). 
I have no doubt these levels are strong enough to cause mischief on FT8.


The measurements were done with an HP8566, in good working condition, 
and I trust it.


I can't imagine this is "normal" for the K2.

I left some phonemail at Elecraft asking for a callback a few days ago 
so I could discuss this, and I'm sure I'll hear back from them some time 
soon. (In this age of pandemics, I have no doubt they're overwhelmed).


But in the interim, is there anyone who's a real expert on the K2 who 
would know a) how abnormal is this? b) what might be the cause?  I don't 
think I'll  fixing  this myself unless some expert says something to the 
effect of "Oh yeah, I saw that a few times, its usually caused by X". 
Hopefully that's what will happen and I'll just fix "X".


Thanks in advance for any help.

73 & stay safe,

--Lenny W2BVH

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[David Box]

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[ockmrzr]

I will try that.

73 de Bruce, N7TY
Yuma, AZ
www.qsl.net/n7ty

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jim McCook
Sent: October 16, 2020 16:47
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

Bruce,

You can set the KPA1500 to automatically go to STBY when you change bands.  
Band Change > STBY:  YES.

Jim
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delivered to ockm...@gmail.com 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

On 2020-10-16 17:35:+0100, David Woolley wrote:

>Red is used because the rod cells, that are used for night vision, down to a 
>point where they are almost quantum limited 
>
>
>See 

Thanks for posting these links.

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

Bruce,

You can set the KPA1500 to automatically go to STBY when you change 
bands.  Band Change > STBY:  YES.


Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[ockmrzr]

Jim,

I have been following the thread.  Same, same here.  K3 driving the KPA1500, 
using AN1 jack only to a 6 PAK that is controlled by a Bandmaster V connected 
to the K3 for band data.  I am going to try OPER / STBY trick when changing 
bands. 

73 de Bruce, N7TY
Yuma, AZ
www.qsl.net/n7ty

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jim McCook
Sent: October 16, 2020 13:49
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

Jim, Thanks for the info.  You understand the problem for sure.  Dick is being 
very helpful now, but I'm getting erratic data for him because switching 
between antennas sometimes only results in "NEED TUNE PWR" 
with OK result after a few seconds, and other times I get the fault due to 
initially high SWR and high power output.  I'll probably go with switching to 
STBY before applying RF to the new antenna.  That way the instant mismatch 
won't create a fault due to 1800w output!  BTW I hope your house was unaffected 
by the fire.  I feel badly for Bob.

Dave that ANT1 ANT2 arrangement will not work with my setup for other 
reasons.  Thanks anyhow for the suggestion.

Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

On 2020-10-16 14:25:-0400, Gwen Patton wrote:
>I wear a
>RovyVon Aurora A7 keychain light on a bead chain around my neck 24/7. 

Funny you should mention that. I have a friend in LA (the city, not the state 
;-) who runs a theatre sound and light company. I was visiting one time, and 
went on location to "help" so that we'd have more time together.

That night during a performance, an elderly person fell in the theatre, and as 
I was nearby with a light in my pocket, I hustled over to help the staff who 
responded quickly, but without a light. Later, J asked if there were anything 
that I /didn't/ have in my pockets. Well, sure...it was suit and tie, after all 
;-)

Y'just never know...

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Re: [Elecraft] Headlights with red lighting

[Rich NE1EE]

Thanks for posting this.
I looked at 2 items
Black Diamond has 2 items under 30USD, so I looked at them. Many choices.
https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/spot-lite-200-headlamp-BD620662_cfg.html?dwvar_BD620662__cfg_color=Octane#details
3 yr guarantee
Low 6 lm Not sure if that apples to both white and red.

Petal (sic) had one that interested me, but for 60USD
https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/SPECIALIZED-headlamps/TACTIKKA-PLUSRGB
5 yr guarantee
Low white 6 lm, RGB 2 lm

Both posted low light level specs where I'd want them, meaning that I prolly 
will replace my aging Princeton and Petzl headlamps in the near future. I have 
also some other BC lamps, but not headlamps, and I agree that these have done 
me well.

I won't give up my Chandler, and will likely update my keychain lamp for ~12USD.

BioLite has some great products overall, but I don't think their head lamps 
compare well
https://www.bioliteenergy.com/products/headlamp-330?variant=12623824289891#
1 year limited warranty
Won't go as low as I'd like for low. 100 lm. So they are just not what I'd want 
for a night groove with my radio.
But they are really well designed, and so are the other products.

On 2020-10-16 11:03:-0700, W3AB wrote:
>Black Diamond & Petal are two companies that make them. Not necessarily 
>inexpensive but you get what you pay for. They have been very robust during my 
>useage. ⁣___ Sent from my two way wrist watch 73 de W3AB/GEO​ 

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

Jim, Thanks for the info.  You understand the problem for sure.  Dick is 
being very helpful now, but I'm getting erratic data for him because 
switching between antennas sometimes only results in "NEED TUNE PWR" 
with OK result after a few seconds, and other times I get the fault due 
to initially high SWR and high power output.  I'll probably go with 
switching to STBY before applying RF to the new antenna.  That way the 
instant mismatch won't create a fault due to 1800w output!  BTW I hope 
your house was unaffected by the fire.  I feel badly for Bob.


Dave that ANT1 ANT2 arrangement will not work with my setup for 
other reasons.  Thanks anyhow for the suggestion.


Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim Brown]

On 10/16/2020 12:26 PM, Jim McCook wrote:
Dave, yes, one coax from the amp to a manual switch.  Your question is 
the same as mine.  Somehow the KPA1500 should know by sensing a rise in 
SWR and shutting down most of the drive power or output somehow so the 
tuner can go through its motions without excessive output or a fault.


I'm doing the same thing you are, Jim -- a dozen or so antennas, often 2 
or 3 for the same band. I've been lazy about training the KPA1500, but 
it is smart enough to switch between saved tunings within a reasonable 
range.


I suspect that, to have the system automatically change power in the 
manner that Pete needs, Elecraft would need to write software to 
remember and change drive levels from the transceiver on command from 
the KPA1500.


My solution is an LP100A with sensors inline with the amp outputs from 
both stations in my SO2R setup, and I manually adjust drive levels as 
needed. The LO100A is positioned right in front of me, so I can't miss 
it, and I have it set for peak hold, which gives me a worst case number 
for power out. My K3s do a bit of power hunting when I adjust power, 
starting high on the first dits and dropping back to the intended 
setting, so I often need to do multiple tweaks of drive level to get up 
to legal limit.


73, Jim K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[David Box]

Jim, If it is a manual switch then must be a short run from KPA to switch so 
why not connect to ANT1 ANT2 on KPA and switch with KPA.  KPA stores separate 
solutions for each ANT.
de Dave K5MWR 


On October 16, 2020 2:26:13 PM CDT, Jim McCook  wrote:
>Dave, yes, one coax from the amp to a manual switch.  Your question is 
>the same as mine.  Somehow the KPA1500 should know by sensing a rise in
>
>SWR and shutting down most of the drive power or output somehow so the 
>tuner can go through its motions without excessive output or a fault.
>
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-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

Dave, yes, one coax from the amp to a manual switch.  Your question is 
the same as mine.  Somehow the KPA1500 should know by sensing a rise in 
SWR and shutting down most of the drive power or output somehow so the 
tuner can go through its motions without excessive output or a fault.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Eric Norris]

Petzl does make dimmable red ones.  However, being an old-timer, I usually
use an Orion flashlight that is very dimmable, and worn around my neck or
held between my teeth.  The Petzl ones I have have to be cycled between red
and white to get to red dim, an offensive move at a star party.  The best
one I have ever used was from Crazy Ed Optical, but I cannot find a
replacement bulb for it.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020, 6:43 AM Rich NE1EE <73.de.ne...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 2020-10-16 06:09:-0700, Eric Norris wrote:
> >Petzl makes red headlamps, I use them at starparties.  Try REI.
>
> I have 2 of them, but I think that they are too bright for close work.
> Great for getting to and fro. Great for macro work at a campsite. The ones
> I have are not dimmable. I also have some by Princeton (I think). The are
> very nice (white), but not dimmable.
>
> I've had my light for ages, so decided to check out the Chandler site.
>
> https://www.davidchandler.com/shop/night-reader-pro/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjPq2nZy57AIVhIjICh1GdQRXEAAYASACEgJIIPD_BwE
>
> I like the battery life on my older Night Reader. I think that I will pick
> up one of these, too, because they are dimmable. I'd want it to come on dim
> each time, and these can. They also can come on bright immediately. Not
> head mounted, tho. Too bad they don't make the original Night Reader,
> because I use it all the time. It always comes on dim, so I don't have to
> hold the button to set the intensity. And I have used it regularly for
> years. No problems. I like my Petzl and Princeton lights, too. The
> convenience of head mounted.
>
> The battery lasts so long on the NR that I don't mind leaving it on and
> letting it hang from my shirt.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[David Box]

If I am reading this thread correctly you have one coax from the KPA feeding a 
remote antenna switch.  If correct how do you expect the KPA to know you 
switched?
de Dave K5MWR 

On October 16, 2020 1:54:02 PM CDT, Jim McCook  wrote:
>I meant to say the tuner settings were made with the KPA1500 in STBY 
>with the K3 TUNE PWR set to 40w.  Jim
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-- 
Sent from my Android device with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

I meant to say the tuner settings were made with the KPA1500 in STBY 
with the K3 TUNE PWR set to 40w.  Jim

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Using Multiple Antennas With the Tuner

[Jim McCook]

I followed N4ZR’s thread and did not see a solution.I have the same 
problem as Pete.I’ve got two antennas on 3 bands.I’ve put the tuner 
settings in all the bins on those bands for each each antenna.Neither 
antenna has SWR over 2.5:1.I can then step through the bins with RF on 
each of those bands with ONE antenna with no problem.However, the tuner 
settings were made with 40w.


If I am in a contest and decide to quickly change antennas to call 
someone, the tuner doesn’t recognize the antenna change until RF is 
applied.I apply the same drive power ~30w and before the tuner selects 
the new setting, it sees the mismatch and output jumps to over 1700w, 
high SWR is displayed, and a fault occurs.The only way I can avoid this 
is first go to STBY, apply RF and wait for the new tuner setting to be 
sensed and applied, then go back to OPER.  To go back to the original 
antenna I have to do that all over again. I don’t think this is how it’s 
supposed to be, but I think there must be no solution.How can we go from 
one antenna to another without this problem?73, Jim W6YA


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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Gwen Patton]

I have a few very useful lamps and light-emitting objects. I wear a
RovyVon Aurora A7 keychain light on a bead chain around my neck 24/7. It
has a handful of light levels for the main LED at the front, from 3 lumens
to 650 lumens. (The older 550 lumen version had a smaller battery and a
dazzler strobe on the main LED that the updated 650 lumen version does not
have.) There is a lantern-mode white light on the side that has 3
functions: low, high, and a flasher mode. There's also a side-mounted UV
LED (purple, "black" light). The shell of the flashlight is
glow-in-the-dark blue, and is "charged up" by the UV light. When you turn
off the light the case glows bright enough to see what you're doing. I find
it works great for a night light that doesn't wreck my night vision, but if
critters are going to be attracted to it, that may not be ideal. NEBO makes
a little keychain light, the MYCRO. It has several brightness settings for
the main white LED, but also has a separate RGB diode that they have set to
give green or red. They're both very low light level, probably around 1
lumen, but it's enough to see by. Both are charged using microUSB and have
fairly short charge times. They're both seriously durable as well.

I also plan to experiment with electro-luminescent wire. I have a nice
length in white and one in red. The red is particularly nice, bright enough
to see and even read by. Stretch it out where you need light, turn on the
inverter on the battery box, and there you go, light. My only concern is
that inverter. I haven't checked to see where it's emitting the worst
noise, but I would expect it to give off some amount of RF noise somewhere,
so it might not be ideal for radio operating, depending on where on the
spectrum that noise falls. It might be low enough and on frequencies that
won't matter to Amateur use, but I can't say for sure as I haven't tested
to see where the birdies are chirping. The benefit is flexibility,
relatively good light output, and low cost. The potential issues are in the
necessity for a high-voltage inverter that could put some nasty hash
somewhere we don't want it to. It might be shieldable, I don't know. Anyone
test such stuff for noise output?

Gwen, NG3P

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73,
Gwen, NG3P


On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 1:34 PM Bill Frantz  wrote:

> I will add, the Tikka has 3 levels of white light and one of
> red. It also has a red blink mode, if you can think of a use for it.
>
> If you are trying to avoid insect attacks, the best color is one
> they can's see. If I remember correctly, most insects see well
> in the blue and UV range.
>
> 73 Bill AE6JV
>
> On 10/16/20 at 1:26 PM, fra...@pwpconsult.com (Bill Frantz) wrote:
>
> >The Petzl Tikka headlamp has a red LED mode. I like them
> >because they seem to be reasonably reliable compared with the
> >other small, inexpensive, headlamps I have used.
> >
> >(One of the other headlamps I otherwise liked kept the battery
> >compartment closed with a thin loop of plastic. After changing
> >the batteries only a few times, the loop broke, the battery
> >compartment wouldn't stay closed, and the contacts on the
> >flopping lid no longer completed the circuit.)
> ---
> Bill Frantz| "I wish there was a knob on the TV to turn
> up the
> 408-348-7900   | intelligence.  There's a knob called
> "brightness", but
> www.pwpconsult.com | it doesn't work. -- Gallagher
>
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[Elecraft] Headlights with red lighting

[W3AB]

Black Diamond & Petal are two companies that make them. Not necessarily 
inexpensive but you get what you pay for. They have been very robust during my 
useage.

⁣___
Sent from my two way wrist watch
73 de W3AB/GEO​
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and Astatic mic?

[Alan - G4GNX]

I changed the insert for an electret, turn on K3 bias and it works fine.

73,

Alan. G4GNX


-- Original Message --
From: "David F. Reed" 
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: 16/10/2020 17:39:30
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and Astatic mic?


Anybody have any luck getting a old Astatic Silver Eagle microphone to work 
with their K3?

Thanks & 73 de W5SV, Dave



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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Bill Frantz]

I will add, the Tikka has 3 levels of white light and one of 
red. It also has a red blink mode, if you can think of a use for it.


If you are trying to avoid insect attacks, the best color is one 
they can's see. If I remember correctly, most insects see well 
in the blue and UV range.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 10/16/20 at 1:26 PM, fra...@pwpconsult.com (Bill Frantz) wrote:

The Petzl Tikka headlamp has a red LED mode. I like them 
because they seem to be reasonably reliable compared with the 
other small, inexpensive, headlamps I have used.


(One of the other headlamps I otherwise liked kept the battery 
compartment closed with a thin loop of plastic. After changing 
the batteries only a few times, the loop broke, the battery 
compartment wouldn't stay closed, and the contacts on the 
flopping lid no longer completed the circuit.)

---
Bill Frantz| "I wish there was a knob on the TV to turn 
up the
408-348-7900   | intelligence.  There's a knob called 
"brightness", but

www.pwpconsult.com | it doesn't work. -- Gallagher

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Bill Frantz]

The Petzl Tikka headlamp has a red LED mode. I like them because 
they seem to be reasonably reliable compared with the other 
small, inexpensive, headlamps I have used.


(One of the other headlamps I otherwise liked kept the battery 
compartment closed with a thin loop of plastic. After changing 
the batteries only a few times, the loop broke, the battery 
compartment wouldn't stay closed, and the contacts on the 
flopping lid no longer completed the circuit.)


73 Bill AE6JV

On 10/16/20 at 9:00 AM, 73.de.ne...@gmail.com (Rich NE1EE) wrote:

The face, keys labels, and display are all clearly visible in 
red light. I have not see a headlamp with red LEDs, but I'll 
bet it exists. You'd want it to be fairly dim, in my 
experience. My little CR2032-powered keychain red lamp is 
plenty at night once I have my night vision. I carry the big 
boy JIC I need it. ---
I just did a quick search for headlamps, and didn't see any 
that I'd jump for. I am seriously thinking of putting a small 
patch of velcro on the keychain red LED, and then I can mount 
it wherever. Right now I keep it hanging from a button hole so 
that it is always handy in the field. I'm thinking that 
sticking some velcro on a ball cap bill would work fine.


---
Bill Frantz|"We used to quip that "password" is the most common
408-348-7900   | password. Now it's 'password1.' Who said 
users haven't

www.pwpconsult.com | learned anything about security?" -- Bruce Schneier

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Tune led

[Frederick Dwight]

I have an idea which should work as an easy to build tune indicator.  I have 
used an LM567 tone decoder (8 pin DIP) which costs $2.22 from Mouser 
electronics.  The Mouser data sheet shows possible circuits.  I use it to drive 
my telegraph sounders from off the air CW signals.  I set mine up for about an 
80 Hz BW and for 600 Hz signals.  The drive level is not too critical and it 
seems relatively immune to weak adjacent signals.  It will take a handful of 
parts, but should work just fine for your purpose.  You could even build two of 
them and have one peaked on say 580 Hz and one on say 620 Hz and both would 
flash if you tune to 600 Hz.  Even a 3 light display if you like lights a red 
one for just too low, a green one for right on freq. and a blue one for tuned 
just a bit to high.  I use a potentiometer to set the center frequency, 
although you could replace this with a fixed resistor when you get it right.  
The LM586 can drive (or sink ?) up to 15 ma, so should be fine direct
 ly driving a 5 ma or less LED.  If questions you can reply off list to my ARRL 
or QRZ e mail.   I posted this since others may also have a use for these 
ideas.   Rick  KL7CW

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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[Elecraft] K3 and Astatic mic?

[David F. Reed]

Anybody have any luck getting a old Astatic Silver Eagle microphone to 
work with their K3?


Thanks & 73 de W5SV, Dave

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[David Woolley]

Red is used because the rod cells, that are used for night vision, down 
to a point where they are almost quantum limited 
, have a peak 
sensitivity for greenish blue, but are very insensitive to very deep 
reds, whilst they retain some sensitivity to the high frequency limit of 
the blue cone cells.  Night vision doesn't have the same spectral 
response as a monochrome camera.


Light of a colour to which they are sensitive bleaches the sensor 
pigment, reducing sensitivity.


Ideally, you don't want to use the brightest red LEDs, but rather those 
with the longest wavelength consistent with an adequate remaining cone 
cell sensitivity.


See  for typical colour 
sensitivity curves.


--
David Woolley

On 16/10/2020 14:31, Ken B wrote:

Why do you use red  and not blue or green



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[Elecraft] Lamp

[giwag...@k5kg.com]

Gary, I have a small USB lamp that I plug into my laptop when operating at 
night when there is no other light.  This lamp has a switch for high or low 
light.  Low light is usually enough.  Doesn’t prevent bugs, but probably 
minimizes them.

73, George K5KG 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

On 2020-10-16 14:41:+, Ken B wrote:
>I am thinking of recessing some LEDs in the table in front of the equipment 
>for low light operation and trying to decide what color would be best.
>
>Thank you 
>Ken WB8PKK 

I installed dimmable "old-fashioned style" lamps in my shack. I like the soft 
glow. They dim to a deep orange, but still enough light spectrum so that I 
don't have color recognition problems. I'd recommend anything in this 
vein...dimmable white light, or similar. I kinda went with orange because of 
the current ideas regarding using blue lights at night when trying to wind 
down. It gives a soft warm light so that when I reach out to caress the knobs 
of the TS-830...er, adjust the finals... 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs - headlamp

[stephen shearer]

On the subject of RED LED Headlamps, I have a Energizer - it has two red 
LED's + three white (variable brightness) that cam be selected.  I 
picked it up at Walmart a few years back.  It was in the $10 - $20 
range, I think it was $13..  (cost may be more now).  3xAAA batteries. I 
don't find a model number.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Energizer-Vision-HD-350-Lumen-LED-Headlamp-Includes-Batteries/47327204 
Looks like $17 now


https://www.energizer.com/lighting/headlights

73, steve WB3LGC

On 10/16/20 7:47 AM, Gary Gregory wrote:

OK, I operate portable and often at night and lighting has to be managed to
reduce critters of the night dive bombing me when operating.

Wearing a head mounted light causes the critters to go into a frenzy so
does not help.

I often wonder what it would be like If the buttons and/or knobs could be
either back-lit or maybe they could be lighter in color to help nighttime
operation.

As it stands, the k3 is very hard to see if i need to use any front
controls.

Placing a light behind me has worked for me but at times the critters
wander away from the light and use me as a target for harassment.

Anyone found an alternative to what I have tried?

Regards,
Gary
VK1ZZ
K3NHL
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Ken B via Elecraft]

 I am thinking of recessing some LEDs in the table in front of the equipment 
for low light operation and trying to decide what color would be best.
Thank you Ken WB8PKK  
On Friday, October 16, 2020, 10:18:48 AM EDT, Rich NE1EE 
<73.de.ne...@gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Another way to roll your own is to simply use an inexpensive red LED, and an 
inline pot. Hadn't thought of that for ages, even since I got my other red 
lights.

On 2020-10-16 09:52:-0400, kk4kfg wrote:
>If your looking at red lights and want to avoid the head lamp or other
>such impediments to operating you should be able to incorporate the
>Universal Power Red Led.
>https://www.portableuniversalpower.com/product/nano-led-red/

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

Another way to roll your own is to simply use an inexpensive red LED, and an 
inline pot. Hadn't thought of that for ages, even since I got my other red 
lights.

On 2020-10-16 09:52:-0400, kk4kfg wrote:
>If your looking at red lights and want to avoid the head lamp or other
>such impediments to operating you should be able to incorporate the
>Universal Power Red Led.
>https://www.portableuniversalpower.com/product/nano-led-red/

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Re: [Elecraft] Cover for K4, KAnything

[James Boehner via Elecraft]

First, I’d like to wish Rose well in her well deserved retirement!

I do recommend JSE-Repair for covers.  I started with him on EBay, but now work 
direct. I am very impressed with his covers, and have them for a number of my 
vintage rigs.  I had a minor problem with one order since EBay did not send him 
the message I left for him.  He made it right, and I was very happy with the 
result.  The covers are of excellent quality.

’73 de JIM N2ZZ

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Eric Norris
Sent: Friday, October 16, 2020 8:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman qth. net
Subject: [Elecraft] Cover for K4, KAnything

I

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

On 2020-10-16 13:31:+, Ken B wrote:
>Why do you use red  and not blue or green 

Good question.
Long answer that I'll keep short.
In days of old, mariners wanted lights that they could see by, but that are not 
too visible otherwise.
Enter red lights. Humans eyes are not very responsive to red light. More to 
blue, and max for green.

But now imagine that you are on a ship, and you want to see stuff, but not be 
too visible to other ships (military use). So you use red light. It's not 
discernable as much as white, green, blue...from a distance.

So we continue to use red.

Night vision is pretty sensitive. You'd be surprised at how much you can see at 
extremely low levels of light. If color rendition is not an issue, then night 
vision, using the rods, rather than cones, is not a bad idea. But if color 
rendition is important (think nav charts [I sail and fly at night]), then very 
dim white light might be more useful. Downside is that the cones, which we use 
for color, are not nearly as sensitive as rods, which are for shades of grey. 
So there are trade offs.

I don't see why green or blue could not be used at very low levels. Your eyes 
are way more sensitive to green, so you could possibly get by with much dimmer 
green or blue light than red.

There is way more...but this is a good start, and I'll wrap by saying that any 
of the colored lights will have drawbacks. Depends on what you are looking at. 
For me, red is a good choice because I can see all my radio gear clearly using 
a red light, and because it is readily available in the low power that I want. 
Green and blue (and yellow, etc) are also available, but at higher power. I 
don't want to overwhelm my rods and then await recovery. 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[kk4kfg]

If your looking at red lights and want to avoid the head lamp or other
such impediments to operating you should be able to incorporate the
Universal Power Red Led.


https://www.portableuniversalpower.com/product/nano-led-red/



I have one I bought in the USB accessory pack and quite pleased with
it. You should be able to get the correct amount of light with that and
be able to power it a variety of ways and directions as needed.


73,
Aaron
kk4kfg

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

On 2020-10-16 06:09:-0700, Eric Norris wrote:
>Petzl makes red headlamps, I use them at starparties.�  Try REI.

I have 2 of them, but I think that they are too bright for close work. Great 
for getting to and fro. Great for macro work at a campsite. The ones I have are 
not dimmable. I also have some by Princeton (I think). The are very nice 
(white), but not dimmable.

I've had my light for ages, so decided to check out the Chandler site.
https://www.davidchandler.com/shop/night-reader-pro/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjPq2nZy57AIVhIjICh1GdQRXEAAYASACEgJIIPD_BwE

I like the battery life on my older Night Reader. I think that I will pick up 
one of these, too, because they are dimmable. I'd want it to come on dim each 
time, and these can. They also can come on bright immediately. Not head 
mounted, tho. Too bad they don't make the original Night Reader, because I use 
it all the time. It always comes on dim, so I don't have to hold the button to 
set the intensity. And I have used it regularly for years. No problems. I like 
my Petzl and Princeton lights, too. The convenience of head mounted.

The battery lasts so long on the NR that I don't mind leaving it on and letting 
it hang from my shirt. 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Ken B via Elecraft]

Why do you use red  and not blue or green 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Oct 16, 2020 at 9:18 AM, Rich NE1EE<73.de.ne...@gmail.com> wrote:   I 
just looked at my keychain light. Says Night Reader by David Chandler Company

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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Eric Norris]

Petzl makes red headlamps, I use them at starparties.  Try REI.

73 Eric WD6DBM

On Fri, Oct 16, 2020, 6:02 AM Rich NE1EE <73.de.ne...@gmail.com> wrote:

> On 2020-10-16 21:47:+1000, you wrote:
> >OK, I operate portable and often at night and lighting has to be managed
> to
> >reduce critters of the night dive bombing me when operating.
> >
> >Regards,
> >Gary
> >VK1ZZ
> >K3NHL
>
> I use 2 red LED lamps. One is a fairly bright flashlight that uses 4X AAA.
> The other is a small flat lamp with a pushbutton-slide switch. It hangs on
> a locking ring, like you'd put keys on. It is push to light, slide to stay
> on.
>
> You can find them for sale for folks who star gaze. Been happy with them
> for years. When it is dark, even the little one seems pretty bright, and
> they don't seem to attract bugs. Double plus...I get to keep my night
> vision, and few bugs. I wish that the LED panels on the KX were dimmable in
> steps. It's way too bright. I looked into what it would take to mod the
> circuit, and it was not as simple as I'd like. Doable. Unfortunately, it
> seems, the original design didn't anticipate that folks would want to dim
> it.
>
> The face, keys labels, and display are all clearly visible in red light. I
> have not see a headlamp with red LEDs, but I'll bet it exists. You'd want
> it to be fairly dim, in my experience. My little CR2032-powered keychain
> red lamp is plenty at night once I have my night vision. I carry the big
> boy JIC I need it.
> ---
> I just did a quick search for headlamps, and didn't see any that I'd jump
> for. I am seriously thinking of putting a small patch of velcro on the
> keychain red LED, and then I can mount it wherever. Right now I keep it
> hanging from a button hole so that it is always handy in the field. I'm
> thinking that sticking some velcro on a ball cap bill would work fine.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

I just looked at my keychain light. Says Night Reader by David Chandler Company

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[Elecraft] switching between 2 radios on input of KPA 1500

[Howard Sherer]

Other than a coax switch on the RF input, would there be an easy way to
select the enhanced control of the 1500 between a K3s & Flex 6400.

Both radios will be set up for enhanced control of the KPA. Can the
interface cables for both radios remain connected and you just reconfigure
the KPA menu for the different radio when selecting the RF drive from
either? Is there any shortcut?
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Re: [Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Rich NE1EE]

On 2020-10-16 21:47:+1000, you wrote:
>OK, I operate portable and often at night and lighting has to be managed to
>reduce critters of the night dive bombing me when operating.
>
>Regards,
>Gary
>VK1ZZ
>K3NHL

I use 2 red LED lamps. One is a fairly bright flashlight that uses 4X AAA. The 
other is a small flat lamp with a pushbutton-slide switch. It hangs on a 
locking ring, like you'd put keys on. It is push to light, slide to stay on.

You can find them for sale for folks who star gaze. Been happy with them for 
years. When it is dark, even the little one seems pretty bright, and they don't 
seem to attract bugs. Double plus...I get to keep my night vision, and few 
bugs. I wish that the LED panels on the KX were dimmable in steps. It's way too 
bright. I looked into what it would take to mod the circuit, and it was not as 
simple as I'd like. Doable. Unfortunately, it seems, the original design didn't 
anticipate that folks would want to dim it.

The face, keys labels, and display are all clearly visible in red light. I have 
not see a headlamp with red LEDs, but I'll bet it exists. You'd want it to be 
fairly dim, in my experience. My little CR2032-powered keychain red lamp is 
plenty at night once I have my night vision. I carry the big boy JIC I need it. 
---
I just did a quick search for headlamps, and didn't see any that I'd jump for. 
I am seriously thinking of putting a small patch of velcro on the keychain red 
LED, and then I can mount it wherever. Right now I keep it hanging from a 
button hole so that it is always handy in the field. I'm thinking that sticking 
some velcro on a ball cap bill would work fine.

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[Elecraft] Cover for K4, KAnything

[Eric Norris]

I have used jse-repair on ebay to make covers for the Kherd.  Some are
stock, some he will make custom.  I had him make custom covers for my
KPA1500 rf deck and PS.  He made a single custom cover for my K3/P3 (one
cover in the dark to bind them).  He will add back flaps, headphone/mic
slits, callsigns for an extra fee.  He makes covers for the KAT500/KPA500
combo stack, K1, K2, and all sorts of gear (even an LP100A). I don't think
he has a K4 cover yet,  but all you need is a measuring tape.

As usual, should you be caught or killed, Eric and Wayne will disavow any
knowledge of your actions-and I have no relationship with JSE-REPAIR, his
successors or assigns, and any similarity between people living, dead, or
undead, is purely coincidental.

73 Eric WD6DBM
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[Elecraft] K3, k4 Black knobs

[Gary Gregory]

OK, I operate portable and often at night and lighting has to be managed to
reduce critters of the night dive bombing me when operating.

Wearing a head mounted light causes the critters to go into a frenzy so
does not help.

I often wonder what it would be like If the buttons and/or knobs could be
either back-lit or maybe they could be lighter in color to help nighttime
operation.

As it stands, the k3 is very hard to see if i need to use any front
controls.

Placing a light behind me has worked for me but at times the critters
wander away from the light and use me as a target for harassment.

Anyone found an alternative to what I have tried?

Regards,
Gary
VK1ZZ
K3NHL
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[Elecraft] CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[rydodd--- via Elecraft]

 When Ron's CW Indicator kit became unavailable, I drew up a board in KiCad and 
had OshPark make some up.  The masking makes part placement a bit more critical 
than the original board.  But it does work fine.
NJR has apparently stopped making the PLL decoder IC (NJM2211M)Both Mouser and 
Digikey are out of stockThey seem to be available elsewhere.  But who knows if 
they are real or knockoffs.
I have shared the board on OshPark.  Here is a link:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/lgpz5XpT

Richard - K4KRW
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