Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer

2010-01-03 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Oww!  Oww!  Oww!
My head is starting to split.
Enough already :-)

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W5WVO w5...@cybermesa.net
To: n...@nf4l.com
Cc: 'Reflector Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 5:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer


 Indeed! And at the rate you're STRIKING it rich, you might end up
 with enough to buy a SPARE! I've heard that this is an excellent
 arrangement when operating SPLIT.
 
 Sorry... :-)
 
 Bill W5WVO
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
 Cc: 'Reflector Elecraft' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 5:57 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer
 
 
 I think it will bowl you over...

 73, Mike NF4L

 Bruce McLaughlin wrote:
  It sounds like a P3 may be right up your alley . . . so to
 speak,
 
  Bruce - W8FU
 
  -Original Message-
  From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
  [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob
 Tellefsen
  Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 6:19 PM
  To: Reflector Elecraft
  Subject: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer
 
  On Christmas Eve morning I bowled in a tournament, and won
 $45.
  Then today I bowled in another tournament and won $55.  So now
  I'm $100 closer to a P3.  I may have it paid for by the time
 it's released
  :-)
  73, Bob N6WG
  The Little Station with Attitude
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[Elecraft] P3 getting closer

2010-01-01 Thread Bob Tellefsen
On Christmas Eve morning I bowled in a tournament, and won $45.
Then today I bowled in another tournament and won $55.  So now
I'm $100 closer to a P3.  I may have it paid for by the time it's released :-)
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer

2010-01-01 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Oooof :-)
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Mike n...@nf4l.com
Cc: 'Bob Tellefsen' n...@comcast.net; 'Reflector Elecraft' 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 4:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer


I think it will bowl you over...

 73, Mike NF4L

 Bruce McLaughlin wrote:
 It sounds like a P3 may be right up your alley . . . so to speak,

 Bruce - W8FU

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bob Tellefsen
 Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 6:19 PM
 To: Reflector Elecraft
 Subject: [Elecraft] P3 getting closer

 On Christmas Eve morning I bowled in a tournament, and won $45.
 Then today I bowled in another tournament and won $55.  So now
 I'm $100 closer to a P3.  I may have it paid for by the time it's 
 released
 :-)
 73, Bob N6WG
 The Little Station with Attitude
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question

2009-12-27 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Very true, Dick, but as we really don't know
a lot about the P3 yet, it seemed a legitimate question.
I can accept that the design doesn't let you get there
from here, but if one doesn't ask about a capability,
it might not even get considered by the developers.
Anyway, still eager to get my hands on one.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Dick Dievendorff die...@comcast.net
To: Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net
Cc: Fred Atchley hamkt...@att.net; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 2009 5:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 You are asking for an incredible amount of integration between a  Windows 
 OS and the P3...

 Dick, K6KR


 Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 26, 2009, at 4:35 PM, Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net wrote:

 Hi Dick
 Yes, I used to use a trackball with my Mac
 at work for doing drawings.  Great tool
 for the purpose.

 Sure would be slick if someone could figure
 out a way for the P3 to look like a second monitor
 when using a logging program and let the
 cursor run back and forth between the screens.
 73, Bob N6WG

 - Original Message - From: Dick Dievendorff die...@comcast.net
 
 To: Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net
 Cc: Fred Atchley hamkt...@att.net; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 1:13 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 Older mice (the ones with mouse balls) used two rotary encoders  to 
 sense and count movement in two directions.
 The P3 uses a single rotary encoder and a knob to position a  vertical 
 line on a horizontal scale.
 The same encoder is used for P3 menu selections.
 A mouse is but one kind of pointing device. Currently the most 
 common of course.
 73 de Dick, K6KR
 Sent from my iPhone
 On Dec 26, 2009, at 11:28 AM, Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net  wrote:
 Thanks Fred
 Happy New Year
 Bob N6WG

 - Original Message -
 From: Fred Atchley hamkt...@att.net
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 11:13 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 As I recall some of the discussions at the Santa Barbara Hamfest,  a 
 mouse
 interface would greatly complicate the design of the P3. The  standard
 computer-to-mouse interface requires a software driver which is not
 trivial
 to design and maintain (drivers are written in machine code for  a 
 specific
 processor architecture.)



 IMO though, It should be possible to design a mouse-like remote  to 
 the P3
 that emulates the knob and buttons.



 73, Fred, AE6IC



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[Elecraft] P3 question

2009-12-26 Thread Bob Tellefsen
I know we are still waiting for more details, but there's a chance I
might have missed some post with this info.

I understand we will be able to click on a signal to tune the K3
to that frequency.  Will this require a separate mouse in addition
to the one used with our logging programs?

It would be nice to have a means where the cursor could move
from the logging screen to the P3 display, as if it was a computer
with two monitors and the cursor moving between them.

Anyone know if this is contemplated?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question

2009-12-26 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Thqanks Merv
Guess we'll just have to wait and see.
73 and Happy New Year
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Merv Schweigert k...@flex.com
To: Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net
Cc: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 10:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 
 Anyone know if this is contemplated?

 Thanks and 73
 Bob N6WG
   
 There has been a lot of discussion about this, I am not sure if there
 has been any action or not,  the first info that I remember is that
 the small knob on the bottom right of the P3 controls the cursor
 position and thats the point and click.  Early on there was no
 provision for external mouse control,   but that may changed by
 release time.  
 Seems that was high on the list of wants.   
 Some one else had asked about pricing and as I recall it was in the
 700 range. 
 73 Merv KH7C
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question

2009-12-26 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Well, maybe if we ask nicely :-)
Thanks and Happy New Year
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: David Ferrington, M0XDF m0...@alphadene.co.uk
To: Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net
Cc: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 you turn the right hand knob to move the line and then press it - that  
 is the click as far as I know.
 No mouse involved with the P3.
 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
 -- 
 Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
 But I'm not so sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein.
 
 
 
 On 26 Dec 2009, at 17:12, Bob Tellefsen wrote:
 
 I know we are still waiting for more details, but there's a chance I
 might have missed some post with this info.

 I understand we will be able to click on a signal to tune the K3
 to that frequency.  Will this require a separate mouse in addition
 to the one used with our logging programs?

 It would be nice to have a means where the cursor could move
 from the logging screen to the P3 display, as if it was a computer
 with two monitors and the cursor moving between them.

 Anyone know if this is contemplated?

 Thanks and 73
 Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question

2009-12-26 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Thanks Fred
Happy New Year
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Fred Atchley hamkt...@att.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 As I recall some of the discussions at the Santa Barbara Hamfest, a mouse
 interface would greatly complicate the design of the P3. The standard
 computer-to-mouse interface requires a software driver which is not 
 trivial
 to design and maintain (drivers are written in machine code for a specific
 processor architecture.)



 IMO though, It should be possible to design a mouse-like remote to the P3
 that emulates the knob and buttons.



 73, Fred, AE6IC



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Re: [Elecraft] P3 question

2009-12-26 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Dick
Yes, I used to use a trackball with my Mac
at work for doing drawings.  Great tool
for the purpose.

Sure would be slick if someone could figure
out a way for the P3 to look like a second monitor
when using a logging program and let the
cursor run back and forth between the screens.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Dick Dievendorff die...@comcast.net
To: Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net
Cc: Fred Atchley hamkt...@att.net; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 1:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 Older mice (the ones with mouse balls) used two rotary encoders to  
 sense and count movement in two directions.
 
 The P3 uses a single rotary encoder and a knob to position a vertical  
 line on a horizontal scale.
 
 The same encoder is used for P3 menu selections.
 
 A mouse is but one kind of pointing device. Currently the most  
 common of course.
 
 73 de Dick, K6KR
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Dec 26, 2009, at 11:28 AM, Bob Tellefsen n...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Thanks Fred
 Happy New Year
 Bob N6WG

 - Original Message -
 From: Fred Atchley hamkt...@att.net
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, December 26, 2009 11:13 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 question


 As I recall some of the discussions at the Santa Barbara Hamfest, a  
 mouse
 interface would greatly complicate the design of the P3. The standard
 computer-to-mouse interface requires a software driver which is not
 trivial
 to design and maintain (drivers are written in machine code for a  
 specific
 processor architecture.)



 IMO though, It should be possible to design a mouse-like remote to  
 the P3
 that emulates the knob and buttons.



 73, Fred, AE6IC



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 in the CQWW contest

2009-11-30 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Even at 5w, I get the same complaints.  My K3 will
let me slip in between big sigs and snipe away.  They
can't take the heat :-)
KB and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 in the CQWW contest


 On Mon, 30 Nov 2009 12:37:46 -0500, DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL wrote:
 
What a great radio
 
 Yes. Several times I got complaints from guys who came on my new run 
 frequency to complain when I landed too close to theirfrequency on 
 40M. Thanks to my K3, I didn't even know they were there, and 
 couldn't hear them with my IF opened up to 400 Hz. Can't blame it on 
 my TX -- on CW, I can run 500 Hz away from my close-in neighbors who 
 also use K3s. 
 
 73,
 
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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[Elecraft] Freq switching with 2nd rcvr question

2009-11-17 Thread Bob Tellefsen
For background, my purpose is to work both cw and ssb in the
coming ARRL 10m contest.  My K3 has the KRX3 installed.

I want to use the primary receiver and transmitter (T1R1) on one mode,
while using R2 to scan (manually) the other mode.

If I'm currently working cw with T1R1, but hear a new SSB station in R2
that I want to work, I want (need) to press the A/B button (or some other)
to swap frequencies between T1R1 and R2.  This should swap the
receiver characteristics also, (filter BW, ANT selection, etc).  So far,
I seem to be able to do much of this with the A/B switch, but the ANT
selection doesn't switch.

Is there some way to get the ANT selection to along with this?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
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[Elecraft] KAT3 tutorial

2009-10-31 Thread Bob Tellefsen
I've seen a bunch of comments flying by about
this tutorial, but I can't find it anywhere.

Is it real, or just a reference to the mass of messages that
have been posted?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft moving this week to larger quarters

2009-10-28 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Way to go, Eric.
And just where might this magnificent new
abode be located?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Eric Swartz -WA6HHQ, Elecraft e...@elecraft.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 4:09 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft moving this week to larger quarters


 Thank to the huge response by our customers this year (on the K3 and all
 of our other products) we are moving the company to a larger facility.
 2x the space for about the same cost as where we are now. (This is a
 great time to negotiate for commercial office / RD / mfg. space..)

 We will be moving Thursday and Friday this week (and through the weekend.)

 Please give us a little extra time to respond to emails and tech
 support/parts requests for the next several days. Our sales department
 will be 100% available for email and phones both Thursday and Friday.
 Our tech support group will be on-line for email the whole time and
 available on the phone for some of Thursday, but not Friday. Of course
 the web page and order form will be 100% available.  Any calls or emails
 we don't immediately respond to will be handled first thing next week.

 We hope to be up and running full steam this Monday, Nov 2. :-)

 Here's a picture of the new building:
 http://www.elecraft.com/images/elecraft_new.jpg

 73, Eric  WA6HHQ

 -- 

 _..._

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Re: [Elecraft] NEW: K3 Front Panel Switch Customization (createyour own SPLIT function, etc.)

2009-10-24 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Wayne
Would your programming language support
SWHA as a code for this?  Or is limited to
3 characters?
73, Bob N6WG


- Original Message - 
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
To: drewko drew...@verizon.net
Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 2009 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] NEW: K3 Front Panel Switch Customization (createyour 
own SPLIT function, etc.)


 There's no way to activate the few long hold switch functions yet,
 but I'll add that to the list. You can activate normal scanning using
 an SWH (switch hold) command.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR

 drewko wrote:

 Hi Wayne,

 Is there a switch emulation for SCAN AF ON (i.e., long hold on the
 SCAN button)? Or some other way to do it?

 73,
 Drew
 AF2Z

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Re: [Elecraft] Need more than one serial port?

2009-10-10 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Paul
Have you looked at a port replicator for your TP?
I have a T23 and it has both serial and USB
ports available that way.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Paul paul.rei...@earthlink.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 8:23 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Need more than one serial port?


I am working on the BESCOTP award--the Bought Every Single Cable On The 
Planet award...

 The DB-9 serial port on the back of the K-3 here has a special cable 
 running to the Steppir antenna controller. Now I need to access the same 
 port from the computer for another application, mainly my contest 
 logger/keying. I have a Micro Keyer and my old cable for it was for a Icom 
 Pro II. I have to buy a new one for the K-3, but it is $85 ! I'd go ahead 
 and do it, but I'm not sure how to hook all this up!

 So, how are you contesters out there doing that? Is there a Y cable made 
 for DB-9? If so, wouldn't that pin out be different than the one for the 
 SteppIR and cause problems?

 A secondary problem is that the computer only has USB ports, no serial 
 port. It's an IBM Thinkpad. I believe it has 4 USB 2.0 ports available.

 Any info would help!

 Thanks,

 Paul
 WY7I
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Two radios on different bands using ANT1 and ANT2

2009-10-10 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hello Jarda
Here's one idea.
Use your logging program to make the changes.
You could program the A/B change to be followed
by the Ant1/Ant2 change, all at the press of one
button.
Just how you do this will depend on which logging program you are using.
It would be easy in TR Log.  I think it can be done in N1MM
but I'd have to ask someone who knows the program better than me
just how to do it.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG


- Original Message - 
From: Jaroslav Chmelík jaroslav_chme...@seznam.cz
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 2009 1:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Two radios on different bands using ANT1 and ANT2


I encountered a problem when I tried to use the K3 with Main/Sub receivers 
on two different bands.

 Configuration:
 - K3 with installed second receiver
 - Second receiver connected to KAT3 (KRX3 ANT=ATU)
 - Set independent VFOs (VFO IND=YES)
 - SW versions: MCU 3.14, FPF: 1.00, DSPs: 2.16

 Operational condition:
 - SUB ON with Linked VFOs (but it behaves equally when independent)
 - Main radio (VFO-A) on 20m band and switched to ANT1 connector of KAT3
 - SUB radio (VFO-B) on 40m band and switched to ANT2 connector of KAT3
 - I am searching two bands in parallel using bigger (A) tuning knob

 When I find a station on Main radio (VFO-A 20m band), I can call it 
 immediately without any problem.
 But when there is a station on SUB radio (VFO-B 40m band), then I hit A/B 
 button, which swaps bands. Now, 40m band is on VFO-A so theoretically I 
 could call the station (transmit). But, to my surprise it doesn't swap 
 respective antenna connectors. So, with inappropriate antenna it has high 
 SWR and I can’t transmit. Naturally, a listening is nearly impossible with 
 inappropriate antennas.

 It seems that although K3 remembers antenna connector settings for each 
 band (and even ATU settings within bands), this doesn't apply when 
 swapping MAIN/SUB receivers.

 Yes, there is a seemingly easy solution: At first hit the A/B button 
 (swaps bands), and then ANT button (swaps antennas). But this isn't very 
 handy. One has to switch both buttons back, when QSO is finished, and it 
 represents several wasted seconds, that can be very valuable during 
 contest. (these buttons are on the opposite sides of the front panel)
 I think it would be fine, especially during SP operation in QRP 
 categories in contests, if K3 (without any additional hardware) could be 
 used in such a semi (or pseudo?) SO2R set-up.

 Is there anything that can solve this problem? Maybe, I am missing 
 something in the CONFIG MENU. Or, is there any technical (hardware) 
 reason, which excludes that?

 Jarda OK1HDU
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Output Power Question

2009-05-19 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Bill
If you find out that the K3 is most stable near the middle or
top of its power range, you could insert a homebrew
power attenuator between the K3 and your amp.  That
would let the K3 run at its optimum power for stability
and still keep the power within the input limits for your
external amp.

Plus, having a clearly resistive load might contribute to
greater power output stability for the K3.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Miner w...@yahoo.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 12:41 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Output Power Question


Hello Elecrafters,

I would like to know how stable the output power of the 10 watt K3 is when 
set to true QRP levels.

I'm asking because my K2 power setting is not very accurate when I try to 
set it to anything much less than 5 watts.

Would it be possible to safely drive an external amplifier that requires 1 
watt maximum drive?

Thanks  73,
Bill - K6WLM
KX1
K2
K3 (soon!)



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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] NB question re: pulse noise problem here

2009-05-04 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Ron
It's a very inexpensive option.  I'd try it.
I have it in both my K2s and it works just fine
on some noises and not on others.  Even the K3
has this problem though.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Ron Greene rgte...@roadrunner.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2009 2:01 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] [K2] NB question re: pulse noise problem here


 On the 40M band only I'm getting an S7 pulse noise during much of the 
 day making 40M nearly unusable.  Most nights I don't hear it but last 
 night it was just as bad as during the day.  The pulse's are approx. 
 30hz and short in duration.  My antenna is a vertical (my only option 
 here).  I would like to know if you think the K2 Noise Blanker option 
 might block these pulses.  I'm doubtful but if anyone thinks it might 
 I'll get it asap.  Other than this pulse noise I don't have any unusual 
 noise noise issues.
 
 Ron
 N7IB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Manual change suggestion

2009-03-15 Thread Bob Tellefsen
The RX OUT/RX IN ports allow you to insert
whatever you want in the receive path for the
main rcvr.
It could be a filter, a preamp, an attenuator or
whatever.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: W0MU Mike Fatchett w...@w0mu.com
To: 'Ken Widelitz' widel...@gte.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Manual change suggestion


 It is also unclear what the real purpose is for the rx ant out.  From what 
 I
 have been told if I want to share my rx antennas with the two receivers 
 then
 I should use a T or splitter and go to each input separately.

 I would think that RX Ant Out would allow you to take the RX antenna to
 another rig or something.

 If I recall correctly was it to be used for some type of flitering?


 A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
 never get over. Ben Franklin
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Widelitz
 Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2009 3:54 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Manual change suggestion

 I've been studying the Main/Sub RX Antenna Routing section with an eye
 towards how the RX ANT OUT is used. Unless I'm missing something, it isn't
 clear in the manual. The answer, YOU NEED TO TURN ON THE RX ANT, is
 contained, in a different context, in the following reflector post from
 Wayne, which should be integrated into the manual.







 73, Ken, K6LA / VY2TT






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Re: [Elecraft] EQP firmware sneak preview

2009-03-15 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Now we're talking.
A bunch of I really want this in there.
Very many thanks, Wayne.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick n...@elecraft.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, March 15, 2009 5:18 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] EQP  firmware sneak preview


I had a lot more contacts in EQP this year. Pent-up demand due to not 
 having one in 2008, maybe?
 
 Thanks to all who participated! I heard lots of strong stations working 
 hard to dig out the little guys (and even giving real reports -- hi).
 
 I also had a chance to try out the latest K3 firmware under contest 
 conditions. It's a major revision, including:
 
   - Sub receiver band independent of main
 
   - Multiple ATU LC setups stored on each band,
 eliminating the need to re-tune when you QSY
 
   - ATU mode (auto/bypass) stored separately per-band/per-antenna
 
   - New AGC settings for use in multi-signal situations
 
   - A method for removing fast-tuning receive spurs
 
   - Extended frequency coverage on transverter bands with a 10-m I.F.
 
   - Improved SSB and DATA power control
 
 Etc.
 
 We hope to make this revision available for beta test soon.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 ---
 
 http://www.elecraft.com
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 vs K3

2009-03-12 Thread Bob Tellefsen
John
The K3 is a very portable QRP radio.
I've used it the past two Field Days with
battery power and my solar panels to keep
the batteries up.
Great field radio.
No feel for the 100w unit on batteries though.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: John Jolley jjol...@columbus.rr.com
To: 'elecraft List' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 4:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 vs K3


 So for the discussion about K2 vs K3, I don't know much about either but 
 am
 preparing to purchase.  Is the K3 portable to any degree?  One of the 
 things
 that attracted me to the K2 was not only building it but the fact that at
 least at low power, it was very portable.  Thanks in advance!

 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
 Sent: Thursday, March 12, 2009 11:29 AM
 To: 'elecraft List'
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 vs K3

 And they sold quickly from the beginning. My K2, purchased in April of 
 2000,
 is S/N 1289.

 At that time they had a 30-day order backlog.

 Ron AC7AC

 -Original Message-

 Bob's comment is correct.  I was at that meeting also, and was absolutely
 blown away by the performance in such a small prototype package.

 Milt, N5IA



 On Mar 11, 2009, at 4:53 PM, K2ZLS wrote:
Many of  us  on the Elecraft Reflector were raised on the K2.  I
 guess its been about 8 years in development.

 More like 10+ years.  I recall seeing Eric's presentation on the K2
 at the 1999 Cactus Intertie meeting in Tucson.

 Bob, N7XY


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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

2009-03-08 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Congratulations, James.
It's always satisfying to reach a goal.

Now what will you do for an encore?
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte kc2...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 10:59 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


 Hello fellow Elecrafters,



 Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that 
 I
 passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my 
 license
 info updated on the ULS within a few days!



 73,

 James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)

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Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

2009-03-08 Thread Bob Tellefsen
FB James
You're certainly in a situation that calls for some
innovative thinking to have a working antenna.
I hope the MP-1 and Buddipole at least let you get
on the air.
Best wishes for a new house with a good rf QTH.
73, Bob N6Wg

- Original Message - 
From: James Sarte kc2...@gmail.com
To: 'Bob Tellefsen' n...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 11:54 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


 Hi Bob,

 Thanks for your email!  Not sure what I'll do for an encore... I think I'm
 pretty set for now.  Perhaps my next move will involve buying another 
 house
 (sold my first one, and now in an apartment), where I can actually put up 
 a
 real antenna instead of my little MP-1 or Buddipole. :)

 73,
 James KC2UEE

 -Original Message-
 From: Bob Tellefsen [mailto:n...@comcast.net]
 Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 2:52 PM
 To: James Sarte; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra

 Congratulations, James.
 It's always satisfying to reach a goal.

 Now what will you do for an encore?
 Good luck and 73
 Bob N6WG

 - Original Message - 
 From: James Sarte kc2...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Sunday, March 08, 2009 10:59 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Whaddayaknow... passed the Extra


 Hello fellow Elecrafters,



 Sorry for the OT post here guys, but I just wanted to share with you that
 I
 passed my element 4 exam today with flying colors.  Hope to have my
 license
 info updated on the ULS within a few days!



 73,

 James KC2UEE (soon to be K3JPS)

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Re: [Elecraft] Your Opinion: The realities of QRP vs. QRO

2009-03-06 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Bill
No QRP 160 DXCC here.  I rarely even
hear DX on 160.
But I do have QRP WAS on 160m.  Must
not be too common, as ARRL couldn't recall
the last time they had issued one.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2009 9:34 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Your Opinion: The realities of QRP vs. QRO




 Gary D Krause wrote:

 Just as long as we all keep it in perspective and
 realize that QRP RULES! ;-)


 But QRP simply does NOT rule everywhere...

 ...for DXing on the low bands (80/160),
 ...for EME or meteor scatter on VHF,
 ...when propagation is marginal or atmospheric QRN is high,
 ...in emergency communications when a life depends on it.

 Sure QRP works well on the HF bands when conditions are good...it's a heck
 of a lot of fun to work across the world with a 2 Watt rig in an Altoids 
 tin
 and a piece of wire...but please don't make blanket statements about QRP
 ruling for many activities...it simply doesn't.

 If QRPers want a REAL challenge, try working DXCC on 160m with 5 Watts.

 73,  Bill  W4ZV (who loves both)
 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/Your-Opinion%3A-The-realities-of-QRP-vs.-QRO-tp2429074p2437055.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Transmit thru Line-In

2009-03-05 Thread Bob Tellefsen
That doesn't sound right, Michael.
I'm using N1MM Logger in my laptop for
SSB contests so I can use the voice keying
feature.   I have the laptop output going into
the Line In jack on the K3 rear panel.  Has
been working just fine for me.  I do have
the VOX selected for keying the radio when
voice comes from the laptop.
3 Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: The Smiths notforc...@hotmail.com
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 9:58 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Transmit thru Line-In



Dont bother with the line in unless you plan to use DATA mode.  The jack 
doesn't seem to activate unless you're in the data mode.  Or at least that's 
what I've found.  Turn your gain back up, switch to data mode, then put the 
VOX on, and try again.  I think that you'll find it works just fine.



Michael

N6MQL


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Re: [Elecraft] Your Opinion: The realit..

2009-03-05 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Boy, that is certainly true, Bill.
I'm a full time QRPer and avid contester.
It's fairly easy to tell the alligators from
those with jackrabbit ears.

I never ID as QRP in contests.  The regulars
know me and that I'm QRP.  When necessary,
they make the extra effort to complete the
QSO.  Those that don't know me just work the
QSO and move on, which is the way I like it.
Even those that I don't catch right away, go
into my band map.  I get them eventually.

73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 05, 2009 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Your Opinion: The realit..





 wayne burdick wrote:

 But I will lay down the following challenge for you: Next time you hear
 an S9+20 station calling CQ, try turning the K3 down to 1 watt and
 calling him, just for grins. All other things being equal, if he's
 running a KW, you should be about S7 at his QTH.


 I'm on both sides of this debate.  I like to transmit a strong signal 
 (gain
 antennas and 1.5kW) but I also get a huge thrill when a QRP station 
 replies
 and I can copy him (thanks to the K3, diversity and good RX antennas). 
 I'm
 typically the guy Wayne is calling above.  I still remember working an OH 
 on
 10 meters in ARRL DX CW a few years ago and doing a double-take when he 
 sent
 599 TR4 (0.4 Watts or 400 milliwatts).  I also worked several QRP 
 stations
 from Europe on 160 in the ARRL DX a few weekends ago.  This 3830 post from
 OL0W (operator OK1DSZ) was fun to read:

 Only for fun, when the band was already closing, I decided to try what I
 will
 be able to work with QRP. Using longer callsing OK1DSZ and the power 
 reduced
 to
 5W I spend about 10 minutes calling several east coast big guns. The award
 for
 the best ears goes to W4ZV, who was worked as easily as with the kilowatt
 earlier in the night. K8PO and W2FU were worked with several repeats. The
 others just kept CQing without any reaction with exception of K1TTT, who
 apparently heard something, but not enough for the QSO.

 http://lists.contesting.com/archives//html/3830/2009-02/msg01298.html

 I also love to transmit QRP in the field with simple wire antennas (using 
 an
 ATS-3 or K2).  It's especially fun to answer big European contest 
 stations.
 You can very quickly tell who produces their strong signal with a BIG amp
 versus ones doing so with antenna gain.  The former are often total
 alligators but it's amazing how quickly some of the latter will pick you 
 up.

 73,  Bill  W4ZV

 -- 
 View this message in context: 
 http://n2.nabble.com/Re%3A-Re--Your-Opinion%3A-The-realit..-tp2430731p2431053.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?

2009-03-04 Thread Bob Tellefsen
James
When you start looking around for sources of these external
signals, be prepared for some surprises.  I had a fairly
strong signal on 10m that was a real nuisance.  I turned
off the power to my house and it went away.  I finally
found it in the controller for our air mattress in the
bedroom.  Now, during a serious 10m effort, like the
ARRL 10m contest, I just unplug the controller until after
the contest.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: KC2UEE kc2...@gmail.com
To: Richard Ferch ve3...@storm.ca
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, March 04, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 birdies - question?


 Rich,

 Many thanks for your reply.

From your description, it then sounds as if I'm hearing a real signal.  I 
do
 have a theory that there may be some sort of electronic signal getting 
 into
 my feedline.  My coax isn't routed ideally, as a good portion of it runs
 between two entertainment centers chock full of transformers, etc.

 These birdies or signals as I hear them change in pitch over a wide range,
 not just 100Hz.  For example, if I start at 28.375, I can hear a solid
 tone.  As I go to 28.376, the tone pitch increases and so on until it 
 peaks
 at 28.380.  At 28.381, I can no longer hear it.  If I go back down in
 frequency, the pattern repeats itself with the tone pitch decreasing.

 I seem to hear these birdies spaced every 500-700 KHz.  I'm going by
 memory now as I don't have the rig in front of me.

 If I remove the antenna, most of them go away.  When I say most, I'd guess
 about 98% of them.  Only some which are very strong are still barely
 audible, but their behavior doesn't change as I tune around.  They are not
 by your description fast tuning.

 With the antenna connected, the loudest of these signals will peak my
 S-meter at S3.  With no antenna, it may be an S0-S1.

 Interestingly, removing the antenna does not affect the sub receiver as I
 can still hear them a little bit when the sub is set to ANT1.  Switching 
 the
 sub to the BNC though, and all remaining signals disappear.

 I'll have to play around a little bit more to determine the origin, but I
 was surprised to suddenly hear all of these signals spaced quite evenly
 apart.  I began to think that this was synthesizer noise, as it does sound
 similar to the DDS signals.  I remember telling Wayne over the phone that 
 I
 was pleasantly surprised after the build, because the first thing I did 
 was
 to tune around the entire frequency range with no antenna attached to test
 for birdies, and I did not hear any at all.

 73,
 James KC2UEE




 On Wed, Mar 4, 2009 at 10:07 AM, Richard Ferch ve3...@storm.ca wrote:

 James,

 Any signal coming in from the antenna will change pitch when you tune the
 radio in CW, SSB or DATA mode. That's not how you tell a birdie from a 
 real
 signal - it's removing the antenna that distinguishes them. A real signal
 will either disappear entirely or at least become much weaker when the
 antenna is removed. Internal birdies, on the other hand, usually sound
 louder when the antenna is removed, because the noise floor surrounding
 them
 drops.

 Note also that there is a difference between the situation with nothing
 connected to any of the K3's antenna connectors, and having anything at
 all,
 such as an antenna switch or a dummy load or just a short piece of coax,
 connected to one of the connectors. If the signal is still there with
 nothing whatsoever touching any of the antenna connectors, then it is
 likely
 a birdie internal to the radio. From your description, it sounds as if 
 you
 are hearing external signals, not birdies.

 There are different kinds of birdies. Some are on fixed frequencies, just
 like real signals, and others are harmonics that tune more rapidly than
 real
 signals. The birdies that are removed by the new signal removal feature 
 are
 the ones that change pitch abnormally rapidly as you tune the radio.

 With a real signal, if you change the receiver's frequency by 10 Hz, the
 pitch of the signal changes by 10 Hz. With one of these fast birdies,
 changing the tuning of the radio by 10 Hz might cause the pitch of the
 birdie to change by 300 Hz. These fast birdies also change pitch when 
 you
 rotate the Shift control - real signals do not.

 Using a 2.7 kHz roofing filter, as you tune past a real signal it will be
 audible over a tuning range of about 2.7 kHz, and will sweep steadily 
 from
 very low to very high pitch (or vice versa) as you tune past it. In
 contrast, a fast birdie might only be audible over a tuning range of
 about
 100 Hz, i.e. as you tune the radio past the birdie it will jump right
 across
 the audible range of pitches within only 100 Hz of dial movement. These 
 are
 the birdies that the signal removal feature works on. It doesn't work on
 birdies that are on fixed frequencies and tune like real signals.

 73,
 Rich VE3KI



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio out artifacts

2009-03-02 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Scott
Out of curiousity, on the headphone output, are
you running it directly into a sound card to
use SpectrumLab?  Or do you have some amount
of resistive load on the audio output with measurement
across the load?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Mike Scott m...@paxsen.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, March 02, 2009 9:36 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio out artifacts


I have been investigating audio artifacts in connection with the K3 AGC 
hold
 experimental firmware. As a reminder, I live in a high noise area.

 As part of the investigation I have been looking at both Line Out and
 headphone audio using Spectrumlab on my PC.

 I am finding substantial 60-hz contamination on headphone audio that I do
 not see on Line Out.

 On Line Out I see what looks like fairly clean audio with donor lines at
 2400 Hz and 3600 Hz outside the rx filter pass band (1 KHz DSP filtering). 
 I
 presume these are the 40th and 60th harmonics of 60 Hz. They are 50 dB 
 below
 noise background noise.

 With only a change of where I plug the PC audio cable (moving from Line 
 Out
 jack to rear headphone jack) the audio looks quite different.

 Now I see a whole array of 60 Hz artifacts. The 3rd and 5th harmonics are
 about equal to comfortable listening level audio.  As I look higher in
 frequency the harmonics generally reduce in level but only to about 20 dB
 below comfortable audio listening level. There is also a broad artifact 
 (300
 Hz wide) at roughly 3300 Hz that is also 25 dB down.

 The artifacts do not go away with reduced volume control settings but 
 remain
 a constant feature of headphone audio out at any setting.

 Is there something about my test set up that I do not understand?
 Does anybody else see contamination of headphone audio on their K3?
 Could there be something wrong with my K3?
 Could transformer coupling (Line Out) vs direct coupling (headphone) be
 adding something to my test set up that I am not factoring into the 
 problem?


 I have never quite believed the audio of my K3 was like Wayne says it 
 should
 be but can make it better using slow AGC (separate post), I doubt that has
 anything to do with the artifacts I see here.


 Mike Scott - AE6WA
 Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
 NAQCC 3535
 K3-100 #508 / KX1  #1311



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Re: [Elecraft] spam?

2009-01-22 Thread Bob Tellefsen
MessageI got it too and dumped it immediately.
73, Bob N6WG

  - Original Message - 
  From: DeniseWerner 
  To: Elecraft List 
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 2:41 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] spam?


  Not sure if this is an old problem but I just received an e-mail through this 
reflector about adding me to Reuniondotcom.
  I don't bite on this type of messaging but just was curious if anyone else 
has gotten this.
  I don't believe the senders name was aware of this but just the same looked 
it up on Google and it all looks like an address gathering system.

  WernerN8BB


--


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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 - More than one antenna per band? Aux outputs?

2009-01-07 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Dana
I can think of several ways to do what you want,
but they will take a little bit of building.  One way
would be for you to make a small relay box that would
connect your 40m antennas to ANT1 and ANT2
of the KAT3 ATU.  On other bands, you could
have whatever other antennas you use connected
to ANT1 and ANT2, but switch to the 40m
antennas on 40m.
The relays in the box can be controlled from the
KRC2, which is the way I switch my antennas here.
GL and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Dana Roode dana.ro...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:06 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KRC2 - More than one antenna per band? Aux outputs?


 Greetings,
 
 Is there a way to select more than one antenna per band with the KRC2?
 IE, I have a 40 meter 4 square and a dipole, can I automatically
 select one when I go to 40 and still be able to select the other on
 manual command?  I need to do this remotely.
 
 Similar question, there are a few Aux outputs on the KRC2, how does
 one control those remotely (that is, via the serial interface or some
 other means)?  I have to select directions on my 4 square, and switch
 in and out a series capacitor on my 80 meter vertical for SSB.
 
  Dana, K6NR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and constant tone!

2008-12-31 Thread Bob Tellefsen

In CW mode plug the FS into the KEY jack.
It will look like a key and key the TX as long
as you push the FS down.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: JIM DAVIS nn...@astound.net

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2008 6:58 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and constant tone!


Is there any way of using a foot switch to activate a constant tone for 
either tuning a external
antenna tuner or tuning up a linear amp instead of PUSHING IN THE 
XMIT/TUNE BUTTON???


I've got a Heil Foot-switch and headset but even when in CW mode 
depressing the FS only activates

the xmit led but no constant-tone/carrier.

Any ideas???

Jim/nn6ee
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 power in RTTY

2008-12-22 Thread Bob Tellefsen

Hi Julian
Since I'll be operating QRP at 5w,
I doubt the PA will be stressed.
GL and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Julian, G4ILO julian.g4...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 22, 2008 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power in RTTY






Bob Tellefsen wrote:


I understand the 100w version has to watch its power level
when used in high duty cycle modes.

Does anyone know about the 10w version?  I'll be doing
RTTY with my K3 at 5w.  I assume that is low enough for
the 10w PA to get along fine, but I'd like to know for sure.
Couldn't find a mention in the manual.




Actually I thought the 100W version was rated at full power key down for 
10

minutes. Personally I wouldn't try it, but I'm sure that's what the spec
says.

I haven't seen a similar spec for the 10W version. I asked a similar
question a few months ago but never received a reply. It's actually 
relevant
even for those who have the PA if they should decide to operaste at a 
power
of 10W, because the PA only kicks in at 12W, so at 10W the small PA is 
doing
all the work. Since it only has the bottom of the case for a heatsink and 
no
fan assistance at all, I'm not at all sure that it could handle 10W key 
down

for 10 minutes, but I'm not going to try to find out the hard way.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3
--
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-power-in-RTTY-tp1687918p1690390.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K3 power in RTTY

2008-12-21 Thread Bob Tellefsen
I understand the 100w version has to watch its power level
when used in high duty cycle modes.

Does anyone know about the 10w version?  I'll be doing
RTTY with my K3 at 5w.  I assume that is low enough for
the 10w PA to get along fine, but I'd like to know for sure.
Couldn't find a mention in the manual.

73, Bob N6WG
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[Elecraft] Scan Rate Adjustment

2008-12-05 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Is there any adjustment somewhere to slow down the scan rate?
Mine goes too fast, and by the time I hear a station the K3 has
shot past it, and it's hard to get back to the station's frequency.

Any info?

Thanks and 73
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 AF Upgrade Kit (for speaker amplifier and LINE OUTs)

2008-11-13 Thread Bob Tellefsen

Wayne
Can you tell us the serial number at which
these changes were incorporated?
We need to know who needs to order them
and who does not.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 10:40 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 AF Upgrade Kit (for speaker amplifier and LINE OUTs)


With minor circuit changes, both the K3's speaker amplifier and line 
outputs can provide lower IMD (intermodulation distortion) at higher 
signal levels. We've been testing these changes for a couple of months, 
and have already phased them into production.


These changes can easily be made to existing K3s. A kit of parts is 
available (K3AFMDKT). All parts are leaded (not surface mount), and 
full instructions are provided. See:


   http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#K3%20Parts

Details
---

SPEAKER AMP:  The mod kit includes a very low-resistance RF choke for 
use at RFC47 on the RF board. This improves speaker amplifier IMD by as 
much as 25 dB at moderate to high AF GAIN settings by reducing the 
voltage drop across RFC47 during signal peaks.


LINE OUT:  The kit also includes smaller resistor values for R19 and 
R20 on the KIO3 module. At present R19 and R20 are about 600 ohms, 
while the replacements drop the resistance to around 50 ohms. The 
smaller resistors increase the available voltage swing at the output of 
the LINE OUT transformers, which improves IMD at higher signal levels.


These two changes are independent. For example, if you never use LINE 
OUTs, you might want to do only the speaker amp modification.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] KDVR3

2008-10-22 Thread Bob Tellefsen
I see from the E'craft web page that the 
KDVR3 is to start shipping 11/30/08.
Is it firm enough now that we can get some
description info on it?  I'd really like to know
what it is supposed to be able to do.  I had
cancelled my original order for it due to a
lack of detailed info.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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[Elecraft] 6m preamp news?

2008-10-10 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Does anyone know how the 6m preamp kit is
coming along.  Been a while since the field
testers got theirs.  I'd think it should be close
by now.  Anyone know?
73, Bob N6WG
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[Elecraft] KXR3 scanning?

2008-10-10 Thread Bob Tellefsen
I just received my KXR3 kit yesterday.
Been poking through the manual, but
haven't found any info yet on whether
it can be scanning one band while the
main K3 is operating on another band.

I'm thinking of having it scan 10m for
the little bits of activity there, while I'm
working on lower bands.

Does anyone know if this is possible yet?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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[Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload

2008-10-01 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Just did the new firmware dowload, and trying to
set up the new Transmit Noise Gate.
Problem is:
Directions say got to CONFIG:TX GAIN and tap
1.  I only show CONFIG:TXGN LP, with a current setting
of 18.  No response when tapping 1.

What do I do now?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload

2008-10-01 Thread Bob Tellefsen

Hmmm
Don't have TX GAIN, just CONFIG:TXGN LP.
Checked CONFIG with TECH MD ON and OFF.
Also checked MENU.
Directions say To use the noise gate, locate CONFIG:TX GAIN, tap '1' to 
turn it ON


Just loaded the latest firmware from E'craft site and no TX GAIN or TX GATE 
there.


Sorry about the font shift here.

Help!

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload



Bob Tellefsen wrote:

Just did the new firmware dowload, and trying to
set up the new Transmit Noise Gate.
Problem is:
Directions say got to CONFIG:TX GAIN and tap
1.  I only show CONFIG:TXGN LP, with a current setting
of 18.  No response when tapping 1.


Not CONFIG: TX GAIN

CONFIG: TX GATE

:-)
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco 


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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload

2008-10-01 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Dave and Vic and Brett and Toby

Finally figured out the problem.
I had the downloaded zip file in C:\K3 Utility\beta 2r45
but when I unzipped it, it created a new subfile,
C:\K3 Utility\beta 2r45\k3fw2r45.zip.  I finally copied
the contents of this file back into C:\K3 Utility\beta 2r45
and things started to work.
Whew!  At least I was able to muddle through.  That's
what I get for downoading infrequently.

I appreciate everyone's input.  We finally got it together.

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude
  - Original Message - 
  From: David F. Reed 
  To: Bob Tellefsen 
  Cc: Reflector Elecraft 
  Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 2:04 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload


  Bob,

  Go back and try again.

  I think you are looking at the wrong menu item; you are seeing CONFIG TXGN HP 
or LP, and the number; go counterclockwise from there (B knob) 2 steps, to 
CONFIG TX GATE; it will show on or off, and the level of it...

  73 and Good Luck de Dave, W5SV



  Bob Tellefsen wrote: 
Just did the new firmware dowload, and trying to
set up the new Transmit Noise Gate.
Problem is:
Directions say got to CONFIG:TX GAIN and tap
1.  I only show CONFIG:TXGN LP, with a current setting
of 18.  No response when tapping 1.

What do I do now?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG___
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Re: [Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload

2008-10-01 Thread Bob Tellefsen

Hi Lyle and Don and Monty

Finally figured out the problem.
I had the downloaded zip file in C:\K3 Utility\beta 2r45
but when I unzipped it, it created a new subfile,
C:\K3 Utility\beta 2r45\k3fw2r45.zip.  I finally copied
the contents of this file back into C:\K3 Utility\beta 2r45
and things started to work.
Whew!  At least I was able to muddle through.  That's
what I get for downoading infrequently.

I appreciate everyone's input.  We finally got it together.

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Monty Shultes [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload



Be Sure Tech Mode is ON.

Just loaded the latest firmware from E'craft site and no TX GAIN or TX 
GATE there.


Sorry about the font shift here.

Help!

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 1:58 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problem with new firmware dowload



Bob Tellefsen wrote:

Just did the new firmware dowload, and trying to
set up the new Transmit Noise Gate.
Problem is:
Directions say got to CONFIG:TX GAIN and tap
1.  I only show CONFIG:TXGN LP, with a current setting
of 18.  No response when tapping 1.


Not CONFIG: TX GAIN

CONFIG: TX GATE

:-)
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco


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Re: [Elecraft] Where have all the K2s Gone?

2008-09-11 Thread Bob Tellefsen

Very true.
I'm hanging onto s/n 00012, as it is now a
historical artifact. :-)
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station  with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft e-mail list elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 8:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Where have all the K2s Gone?


My K2 SN 00020 sits, fully upgraded and fully loaded, with its internal 
battery and KAT2 is ready to go with me portable at any time.  Yes, 
since the advent of the K3, it is no longer the main transceiver, but it 
is alive and well just the same.  Being a Field Test model, it will 
never leave me until it is pried from my 'cold, dead hands'.  It is a 
piece of history, even though it may be only *my* history.


73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Sn 1478

2008-09-03 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Jan
Since E'craft hasn't really published much info on
the KDVR3 yet, could you tell us what the manual
you received says about it?  What features,
capabiities, etc?
Many thanks.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: SM6TUW [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 11:27 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Sn 1478


 For those who keeps track.
 
 Ordered 2008 April
 Katiegram  2008 Aug 12
 Delivered   2008 Aug 1
 
 K3/100
 K3DEP
 KAT3
 KBPF3
 KDVR3
 KFL3A-400
 KFL3A-6K
 KTCXO3-1
 KXV3
 ProSet-K2
 
 Completed, up and running Aug 23
 
 
 73 Jan SM6TUW
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Re: [Elecraft] CQ 160 WW

2008-08-23 Thread Bob Tellefsen
You are quite right, Brian.

We appreciate the heck out of those who
have invested their time and effort in
exceptional stations, have great operating
skills, and have the patience to stick with us
in poor conditions to complete a QSO.

In good conditions, you probably can't tell a
good QRP station from  a mediocre LP station,
or even an HP station suffering from a momentary
dip in propagation.  That's what makes it so
much fun for us :-)

Our reward comes from putting together a
total system that can make itself heard at
significant distances, especially on 160m.
That's actually a pretty decent challenge
for anyone, as witness the efforts the serious
stations go to at any power level.

To be able to play with the big boys in the
contests, we have to wring every bit of losses
out of our systems, and ensure that every
one of those 5w is paying its way.  Takes a
lot of attention to detail, but again, we enjoy
the challenge.

Good luck and hope to work you in the contests.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude



- Original Message - 
From: alsopb [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CQ 160 WW



With all due respect, you QRP guys need to be praising the rigs of the
people
who pulled your 5 watt rig out of the noise.

5 watts is 5 watts, independent of rig.

73 de Brian/K3KO


Dale Putnam wrote:



 The certificate from CQ WW 160 2006, just arrived. Thank you all who
 helped make that contest happen and helped with the 1st place Single
Op CW
 - Wyoming for me. All those folks that heard and worked me. What was
fun
 for me was just running stations. With nothing more than a wire
antenna,
 well... and a vertical. But is wasn't the heavy hitter that I used
to
 have. That is still being repaired, hope to have it back for this
fall.
   But really, thanks to everyone.
   Oh, and what is the Elecraft tie? It was with a K2 at 5 watts. So,
all
 the folks at Elecraft helped too. Qrp is a blast!!
   Thank you all,

 --... ...--
 Dale - WC7S in Wy

 _
 Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web
with
 Windows®.

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-- 
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/CQ-160-WW-tp777502p778601.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] 6m preamp

2008-08-23 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Does anyone have a sense of how much longer before
the preamp is released?
I'd like to get two, one for 6m, and one I can mod
for 10m.  I'm not happy with the 10m sensitivity
either.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] CQ 160 WW

2008-08-22 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Congratulations, Dale.
QRP on 160m rocks.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Dale Putnam [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] CQ 160 WW




The certificate from CQ WW 160 2006, just arrived. Thank you all who
helped make that contest happen and helped with the 1st place Single
Op CW - Wyoming for me. All those folks that heard and worked me. What
was fun for me was just running stations. With nothing more than a
wire antenna, well... and a vertical. But is wasn't the heavy hitter
that I used to have. That is still being repaired, hope to have it
back for this fall.
  But really, thanks to everyone.
  Oh, and what is the Elecraft tie? It was with a K2 at 5 watts. So,
all the folks at Elecraft helped too. Qrp is a blast!!
  Thank you all,

--... ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy

_
Get thousands of games on your PC, your mobile phone, and the web with
Windows®.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588800/direct/01/___
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Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets

2008-08-21 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Does anyone know if there is a site that will
find SMD equivalents to standard parts?
I'm looking for an SMD equivalent to the
2N5109 transistor (if there is one).
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Planisky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: List Discussion Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 0.1 right angle header and sockets


 Kevin,

 Have you tried searching on Octopart ( http://octopart.com )?  It's
an
 electronic parts search engine.

 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP

 On Aug 20, 2008, at 10:34 PM, Kevin Rock wrote:

  I have been searching through Mouser and other catalogs for
  something I know exists.  I have seen examples in both Elecraft
kits
  and in other kits I have built.  Now I want to find these parts
for
  a project I am designing.  I want a set of 0.1 right angle header
  and sockets.  I am able to find the pin headers but cannot find
the
  matching sockets.  Where do I find right angle sockets to mate
with
  the 0.1 header pins?  I don't really want to change my design to
  use straight pins and sockets but may have to if I cannot find
what
  I want.  Thus I am asking for direction: where do I find the parts
I
  know exist?  I am probably not calling them the right thing but
have
  tried a number of different names over the last four hours.  Any
  assistance would be appreciated.
Kevin.  KD5ONS
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod

2008-08-21 Thread Bob Tellefsen
There's one easy trick I learned a while back.
Actually add solder to each end of the R or C
to be removed.  This creates a larger thermal
mass that doesn't cool and harden as quickly,
and gives you time to get the other end melted
too.  Then the part slides right off.

As has been recommended before, practice first
on some junk pc board with SMD parts on it.
Really easy technique.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG



- Original Message - 
From: Tom AK2B [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2008 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Buffer Mod





 At 09:48 AM 8/21/2008, Jim Denneny wrote...
 I am about to attempt the N8LP K3 Buffer Mod for improved RX
 performance.  It involves exchanging two, extremely small,
 surface-mount resistors.

 Chip-quick (
 http://www.chipquikinc.com/newsletters/cq_new_june_2004.htm ) is
great
 for doing SMT rework. It's a low melting temperature alloy, which
you
 use like solder. It mixes with the existing solder to make device
 removal easy. It doesn't take much.

 Although I am a big fan of ChipQuik you should try it on an old PC
board
 before you try it on something that might break your heart if you
fail.
 ChipQuik can send a part flying (along with a trail of molten
ChipQuik) if
 the part has been tacked down with an adhesive and requires a little
 pressure. Once you get the hang of it, on a multipin IC, it can be a
life
 saver. I don't think I would use it on a resistor or cap though. I
would go
 with the single iron back and forth or the two iron method.

 Tom, AK2B
 -- 
 View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Buffer-Mod-tp738458p740797.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for ButternutHF-6V

2008-08-20 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hello Niel
I'd like to talgate Don's comments with a small one of my own.
If you should use just a single radial, you may or not be able to
see the little bit of directivity the antenna will develope in the
direction of the single radial away from the vertical.

I did a quick check with EZNEC on a 40m vertical with one
radial.  There is a 5 dB front-to-back ratio, with the best signal
in the direction of the radial.  The flip side of this is that the
antenna gain is only -1.6dB in the favored direction, and even
less in other directions.

You might be able to take advantage of this, if your property
is aligned in desireable directions.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Niel Skousen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:29 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: LONG: Background info on Re: WTB: CPK for
ButternutHF-6V


 Niel,

 Fine on your constraints.
 Remember that a vertical with raised radials is just a dipole 'on
its
 side' with one leg (a single radial) bent at 90 degrees to the
radiating
 element.

 So how does only the vertical part radiate you may ask.  That
happens
 because you add another radial physically opposite the first one,
and
 the radiation of one radial is 180 degrees out of phase with the
 radiation from the other, so they cancel leaving only the vertical
 portion to radiate a signal.

 If the pair of radials are not symmetrical, then you may be just as
well
 off with only a single radial per band.

 The radials must each be tuned (just like one end of a dipole) with
the
 vertical radiator.  The radials must be an *electrical* quarter wave
 long at the band of operation - they can be loaded with inductors
near
 the junction with the coax shield, or they can be end loaded with a
T
 wire, or some combination of both, but they must be resonant.
 If they are placed close to the ground (4 feet is close for the HF
 bands), there will be some effect from ground coupling that will
de-tune
 them, so the easiest is to cut them long and do the trimming with
the
 aid of an antenna analyzer (if there are several radials for each
band,
 they must be tuned one at a time - connect only one and tune it,
then
 connect only the next one and tune, etc. until done.

 Remember that the radials will not be 'radials' unless they are
 symmetrically placed around the vertical, it is of no use to run two
 radials for any one band out in the same direction for they will
produce
 the same radiation pattern as a single radial.

 Another 'solution' is to trade that antenna for one that is an
 electrical half wave - which does not need radials being an antenna
 complete within itself.


 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Niel Skousen wrote:
  Hi Don (and all who have offered advice  help)
 
  Thanks to all for the input that has been offered.  Based on some
of the
  comments, I thought I might share the 'rest of the story', both to
seek
  additional input, and to show the technical trade off's associated
with
  a compromise antenna environment.
 
  I'm installing a used HF-6v in a CCR environment, so I have some
  environment limitations.  The CCR 'enforcement' committee is not
  horribly aggressive, but if I don't aggravate the situation, I'm
much
  better off.
 
 
  So, the HF6 will be mounted about 4' off the ground, a full
elevated
  radial system is not possible.  Choices seem to be the CPK
solution from
  Butternut or a modified radial system.  Two options are being
considered
  on the modified radials.
 
  First, 3 tuned radials (either individual wires for 40/15, 30, 20,
15,10
  or the Butternut tuned twinlead variety) could be connected at the
base
  of the antenna, then run down (hidden in the bushes) at a 60
degree
  angle to ground level, then run under/around the rocks.
Performance is
  expected to be better than the CPK, but still a compromise.
Routing is
   not linear.  Tuning of this radial environment is expected to be
a bear !
 
  The second, the CPK, is expected to be enhanced by the low
elevation,
  but NOT as effective as a good ground radial system.  I might be
able to
  enhance this configuration by laying out a psuedo radial set of
6-10 8'
  wires at the base of the 4' mast, which would more accurately be a
  surface capacitive element to enhance the CPK's effect.
 
  In neither case will the near field ground losses be impacted.
There
  are some spiral wound counterpoise idea's out on the web, as well
as
  some thoughts on constant angle spirals, which are tempting, but
at this
  juncture, I expect to lean to the CPK to get it up and running,
with
  spirals and experiments to follow...
 
  So any additional input, idea's, are solicited and welcome
 
  Thanks again all,
 
  Niel
 
 
 
  Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Remember (or understand if you did not before) that elevated
radials
  should be tuned (pruned for length) just like a part of the
antenna
  (they *are* part of the 

Re: [Elecraft] RE:balanced tuner

2008-08-18 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi David
I use the window line on a number of my antennas.
I twist the lines as a matter of course, the idea being
to somewhat equalize any unbalancing effects of
things in the nearby fields as the line passes by.
No scientific evidence that this is of real benefit, but
it makes me feel that I have at least tried to maintain
what balance there may be in the total antenna system.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: David Cutter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RE:balanced tuner


 For long horizontal lines near to the ground (3ft, 1m, say) I've
read that
 some folks rotate the line between supports, supposedly to maintain
balance;
 what do you think about that?

 David
 G3UNA


 - Original Message - 
 From: list1 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 4:29 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] RE:balanced tuner


  Hi David and all,
 
  I have done a lot of EZNEC dipole simulations and have come to the
  conclusion that the loss in 100 feet of coax off of resonance is
about 12
  dB
  per 100'.  Whether you use RG-8x or LMR400 doesn't make too much
dfference
  concerning losses off of resonance where your SWR with 50 ohm
transmission
  line can be greater than 200:1.
 
http://www.pituch.net/Steve%27s%20Page/Radio/Antenna4/Antenna4.htm
  Because of this if I use 450 Ohm ladder line to a 1:1 baun, I try
to keep
  the length of coax going into the house less than 15 feet. For
your 50
  feet
  of coax run you should never have a loss greater than about 1 S
unit (6
  dB).
 
  When I went to 100 percent ladder line including inside the
residence,
  when
  I built my balanced tuner, I used two 1/4-20 stainless steel bolts
to feed
  the signal through the exterior wood wall. I have U solder lugs
on the
  two
  wires at the end of the 450 Ohm line, and I use two wing nuts to
connect
  the
  ladder line to the house connection.  When I am finished operating
I go
  outside at spend 5 seconds loosening the wing nuts and the ladder
line is
  no
  longer connected to the residence.  If I wanted further protction,
I guess
  I
  could drive a ground rod 15 feet away from the residence and wing
nut the
  end of the ladder line to it when I am not operating.
 
  I don't believe you can keep your antenna connected to your
equipment and
  ever be completely protected from lightning strikes (and that
includes
  coax).  The air gaps don't work.  For coax the gas surge traps may
work to
  a
  degree, but I would much rather disconnect the transmission line
than
  depend
  on one of these devices.
 
  If you want so-called protection for 450 Ohm line why not use 2
Alpha
  Delta
  coax surge traps - one for each wire of the 450 Ohm line?
 
  The thing about keeping the 450 Ohm line away from metal is
overdone a
  bit.
  I find keeping it away from metal about 2 or 3 inches is fine.
 
  Regards,
  Steve, W2MY
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/10 on Battery?

2008-08-18 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Jim
I ran my K3/10 on battery for FD.
I used a bigger battery though, 20AH.
The receiver draws more current than
my K2, so I figured a bigger battery
would keep me out of trouble during the
weekend.
You will have around 900mA drain in
receive, and 2-3 amps in transmit.

You could work that out to ampere-minutes
on your fingers and toes, and see if the
5A gell-cell will handle things.  Remember
the K3 wants to see at least 11 volts from the
battery, though.

If you have a solar cell you can hang on the
battery to stretch it some, that would certainly
help.

It sounds like the van battery would be your better
bet, though, as it has the capacity to run you
for several hours and still be able to start the
motor again.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Miller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 7:40 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/10 on Battery?


 I've got a situation where I might need to operate my K3/10 on a
battery.

 Since it's a one time (likely) deal I don't really want to drop a
wad on
 this.

 I've got a 5ah gel cell that I could use. If pressed I could make a
 connection to the car accessory output aka cigarette lighter in the
back of
 the van.

 The occasion is a QRP fox hunt where most of the 1.5hrs is listening
and
 less than 10 minutes of transmitting at 5W.

 Thoughts or suggestions welcome.

 73

 jim ab3cv

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp

2008-07-31 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Yes, I have a number of 2N5109s.  I use them
in my HF preamps.
Thanks, Jan Erik.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Jan Erik Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp


 MGF1302 is a GaSFet transistor. Used to be popular in preams
 on 144/432 MHz amongst EME´ers.

 A device like that is far from needed on 50 MHz also since
 the MGF1302 is designed for a much higher frequency it actually
 might not be a good deal to use it on 50 MHz.
 I would stay away from GaSFet´s and Dual Gate MosFet´s on
 50 MHz, not needed.
 A 2N5109 might be a good deal.

 / de SM2EKM
 

 Bob Tellefsen wrote:
  Don't think I've seen that kind of model number before, Jack.
  What is it and who makes it?
  Thanks and 73
  Bob N6WG
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jack Colson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Jack Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED];
  [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 4:37 PM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp
 
 
  I personally would use a MGF-1302.
 
  73
  Jack, W3TMZ
 

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[Elecraft] Beta 2.22 and Noise Reduction problem

2008-07-31 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Just finished installing the 2.22 beta.
Took the rig back to the shack and ran through the
various controls I use the most often.
No problem with the Noise Blanker but the
Noise Reduction does not work now.
I went through every menu I could find, and 
KNB3 is ON and seems to work ok.  I couldn't
find any menu choices for the NR function though.
Whether I tap or hold the NR button, all I
get is N/A.

Have I missed something or is there a bug in
this beta?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] Beta 2.22 and Noise Reduction problem

2008-07-31 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Don
As usual, it turned out to be very simple.
Just neglected to check the AGC ON.
Once I changed it, all was well.
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2008 5:07 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Beta 2.22 and Noise Reduction problem


 Bob,

 Are you possibly in DATA or FM mode?  The NR function is not
available
 in those modes, hence the N/A display.
 I have 2.22 loaded and have no similar problem with the NR in CW,
SSB or
 AM modes.

 73,
 Don W3FPR.

 Bob Tellefsen wrote:
  Just finished installing the 2.22 beta.
  Took the rig back to the shack and ran through the
  various controls I use the most often.
  No problem with the Noise Blanker but the
  Noise Reduction does not work now.
  I went through every menu I could find, and
  KNB3 is ON and seems to work ok.  I couldn't
  find any menu choices for the NR function though.
  Whether I tap or hold the NR button, all I
  get is N/A.
 
  Have I missed something or is there a bug in
  this beta?
 
  Thanks and 73
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp

2008-07-30 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi John
I've been looking at this circuit for some time.
I have a number of J310s, but no U310s.
Do you know whether they are the same
animal, just in different casings?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: John Klewer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 10:56 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp


 Note that I installed this preamplifier in the RX IN/OUT path on the
K3
 rear panel




  To enhance the 6 meter performance of my K3 I built the U310
  preamplifier as described on N6CA's website:
 
  http://www.ham-radio.com/n6ca/50MHz/50appnotes/U310.html
 
  Tuned up on an HP8970A noise figure meter it gives 11.2 dB gain
and
  NF=1.3 dB.
 
  The receiver's performance on weak signals was significantly
improved.
  I already had the parts but cost should not exceed $30.00 to
duplicate
  this preamphard to beat.
 
  I have not done measurements on the radio/preamp combination to
  determine any negative effect on the receiver performance but the
K3,
  which always performed well in the presence of strong signals,
  continues to do so.
 
 
  John, N6AX
 
  K3 #567
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp

2008-07-30 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Don't think I've seen that kind of model number before, Jack.
What is it and who makes it?
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Jack Colson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Jack Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED];
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp


 I personally would use a MGF-1302.

 73
 Jack, W3TMZ

 - Original Message - 
 From: Jack Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2008 6:48 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 6m pre-amp


  Don:
 
  The U310's are not too easy to find these days. Vishay seems to be
the
  most common (only?) new production supplier and the one-off price
is
  about $14 from Mouser or Arrow.  Digikey, Allied and Newark only
stock
  the SOT23 plastic surface mount version. TO-92 plastic case parts,
the
  J310, are around 25 cents each. The U310 and J310 are supposed to
have
  the same die, so differences should be attributed to the case, but
who
  knows what goes inside the package these days, particularly if it
is
  from China.
 
  If I were building a pre-amp based upon a U310, I would start with
a
  J310 and get it thoroughly debugged before experimenting with
U310's
  at $14 a pop.
 
  It's something like the 40673 dual gate FET - once ubiquitous and
now
  difficult to find and expensive when found.
 
 
  Jack K8ZOA
 
  Don Wilhelm wrote:
  Bob,
 
  While I cannot speak from my own measurements, but in EMRFD, Wes
  Hayward recommends the U310s for VHF/UHF rather than the J310.
The
  case of the U310 is connected to the gate, and when used in a
  grounded gate configuration, the case can be mounted (upside
down)
  into a hole in the PC board, and I believe that alone should
provide
  better input to output isolation.  The Vishay data sheet
indicates a
  slightly lower noise figure for the U310.
 
  I would suggest that you try the J310s.  If you find them
lacking, it
  should be easy to change to U310s, I would guess that at 50 MHz,
it
  may be a 'toss-up' decision.
 
  73,
  Don W3FPR
 
  Bob Tellefsen wrote:
  Hi John
  I've been looking at this circuit for some time.
  I have a number of J310s, but no U310s.
  Do you know whether they are the same
  animal, just in different casings?
  73, Bob N6WG
 
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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com Version: 8.0.138 / Virus
Database:
  270.5.7/1581 - Release Date: 7/30/2008 6:56 AM
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: General Coverage Receive Filter

2008-07-28 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Ian
Besides casual listening around the HF bands, it turns
the K3 into another piece of test equipment in the shack.
The K3 calibration is pretty darn good, so you can
measure the frequency of a signal and be very close
to its absolute frequency.  Or just listen to an oscillator
that operates outside the ham bands, such as those in
a homebrew RX or TX.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Iain MacDonnell - K6IAM [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: 'Joe Word' [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: General Coverage Receive Filter



 I'd been meaning to ask for a while; what is the motivation for
those
 of you who have ordered the general coverage receiver option? i.e.
what
 makes it worth the extra $129 ??

  ~Iain


 Ron D'Eau Claire wrote on 07/28/08 07:35:
  Joe asked:
 
  What is the General Coverage Receive Filter, how does it work? If
it is
  just
  another roofing filters, why not just use the 6.0 filter?
 
  ---
 
  It's not, Joe. The KBPF3 provides additional receiver input
bandpass
  filters.
  The input bandpass filters are L/C filters that are switched
  automatically according to the frequency band selected to protect
the
  receiver from strong out-of-band signals hundreds of kilohertz or
even a
  few megahertz away from the desired signal.
 
  The first I.F. roofing filters follow later in the signal path
to
  provide selectivity within a few kHz or a few hundred Hz of the
desired
  signal.
 
  The basic K3 is equipped with input filters covering the 160-6
meter Ham
  bands. These filters also allow reception near the Ham bands but,
as you
  tune farther from a Ham band, the sensitivity will drop off as you
move
  beyond the edge of the filter bandpass. This is most apparent when
  trying to listen to AM broadcast band stations below 1,000 kHz
without
  the KBPF3, but a significant loss of sensitivity occurs whenever
the
  basic K3 is tuned far from a Ham band.
 
  The KBPF3 provides additional input filters that are switched in
  automatically to cover the out-of-Ham-band frequencies between 500
kHz
  and 30 MHz.
 
  Ron AC7AC
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Momentary breaks when tuning down

2008-07-22 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Mike
Practice using the direct frequency entry.
It is fast and gets you right on frequency.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6Wg

- Original Message - 
From: AD6XY [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, July 21, 2008 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Momentary breaks when tuning down



 I have noted something similar - say you set to fine tuning so you
have a
 frequency like 14.28. Then set to faster tuning rate. Tune down
and up.
 You find you are on 14.28001, there is no way to zero the last digit
again.
 Not that it matters but it is odd - perhaps a rounding error.

 I don't know if it is just me but I find the tuning rate, even when
set to
 fast and/or using the clarifier to still be far far too slow. I am
sure it
 is fine to tune across 7MHz but tuning from 144.3 to 144.5 (to get
from our
 calling channel to the beacon band) takes forever. Quite often you
will
 reply tol someone on 144.3 and they request to QSY off the calling
channel,
 often by up to 100kHz. I find I am forever pressing the rate button,
or for
 large QSYs setting to FM and back. Otherwise by the time the K3 gets
there
 the other station has gone back to 144.300 wondering where you went.
This is
 of course how I noticed the last digit issue above.

 Mike


 David Andrews-3 wrote:
 
  I'm aware when tuning down a band on receive that there is a short
break
  in
  the audio every so often. This doesn't seem to happen when tuning
up the
  band. Can anyone explain what is happening?
 
 
 
  David G4CWB
 
 
 
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 -- 
 View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Momentary-breaks-when-tuning-down-tp574200p576213.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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Re: [Elecraft] 6m preamp description??

2008-07-19 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Yesterday, I hooked up
my old Ameco PT-2 preamp to the K3,
and even that old dog made an improvement.
There is a much more pronounced change
in the noise level when connecting or
removing the antenna now.
Hope it helps in the CQ VHF contest this weekend.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Stewart Baker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Reflector Elecraft
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 1:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6m preamp description??


I brought a 6m preamp kit from Down East Microwave.
It cost only slightly more than if I had sourced the components in
the UK. The end result means that now I can hear the K3 noise
level increase when I add an antenna.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 10:33:21 -0700, Jim Brown wrote:
 On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 09:32:42 -0700, Bob Tellefsen wrote:

 I've heard that there is a prototype 6m external preamp
 being tested.

 I bought an ARR preamp several years ago when I was living in
 Chicago. I patched it into the external antenna insert loop
and it
 works well.

 73,

 Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] 6m preamp description??

2008-07-19 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Thanks for the info, Tom.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: K8TB [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, July 19, 2008 7:42 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6m preamp description??


 I bought an ARR peamp for six. It has a bit too much gain, so I have
a
 BNC 10 Db pad after it. You can get these attenuators on Ebay for $
10
 or so. I have the ARR preamp supported by a double male BNC barrel
 coming off the back of the K3 KXV3 panel. The attenuator/pad sits on
the
 back of the preamp with a 12 bnc jumper back to the KXV3. Power
comes
 from that handy RCA connector Elecraft put on the K3. Now the rig is
 real solid on six.

 And the even better news is that my K3 # 2 just arrived
yesterday.
 This one will replace a TS-2000 at my six meter remote base.

 Currently, it's raining outside. Nuts, I can't do any yard work!

 tom bosscher K8TB


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[Elecraft] 6m preamp description??

2008-07-18 Thread Bob Tellefsen
I've heard that there is a prototype 6m external preamp
being tested.  If so, can anyone give us a thumbnail
description of this little unit?  And how well does it
seem to work?
Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] 6m preamp description??

2008-07-18 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Thanks Jim
I've heard good things about their products.
Glad yours is working well.
I'm going to try patching in my Ameco PT-2
preamp, just as an experiment.  I'll probably go
ahead and build my little J310 preamp though.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Reflector Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, July 18, 2008 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 6m preamp description??


 On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 09:32:42 -0700, Bob Tellefsen wrote:

 I've heard that there is a prototype 6m external preamp
 being tested.

 I bought an ARR preamp several years ago when I was living in
 Chicago. I patched it into the external antenna insert loop and it
 works well.

 73,

 Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Not receiving posted messages

2008-07-10 Thread Bob Tellefsen
You're 5NN here, Thomas.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Thomas Kuehl [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 9:35 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Not receiving posted messages


Hi,

Since subscribing to the list about a week ago I haven't received any
of the messages that have been posted. I know this because I see that
many have been listed in the archive. I am able to post a message and
receive responses directly addressed to me, but that is the extent of
it.

My Yahoo mail settings have been checked to make sure I am not
blocking the list, and I've also checked my Elecraft list settings.
All of the other lists that I am subscribed to are working fine.

Anyone have an idea what might be going on? Please reply direct so I
can see the response.

Thanks, Thomas - AC7A



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Two amplifiers 1 key line

2008-07-03 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Lee
Something like the KRC2 band decoder
could be used to steer the PTT line as
you change bands.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Lee (WW2DX) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 03, 2008 10:21 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Two amplifiers 1 key line


 I have a HF amp on ANT1 and (soon to be) 6M amp on ANT2. ANT2 is
 dedicated 6M antenna.

 Has anyone come up with a way to PTT each amp when on desired band?
Is
 it possible to just hook both AMPS to the same PTT key line so both
 amps  Key at the same time but the RF path would then take over?

 Thanks,

 Lee
 WW2DX
 K3 #464


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[Elecraft] K3 #811 Locked Up

2008-06-21 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Guess it's my turn to have a problem.
Rig here is K3 #811.
Options are KAT3, KXV3, KBPF3, 400 Hz 8 pole xfil.

My problem is that at turn-on I have every icon on the LCD display on
simultaneously, almost like an LCD display test.
Rig doesn't respond to any commands.
Tried connecting to the K3 Utility, and it says,
Cannot communicate with K3.  I've checked both serial ports,
so that doesn't appear to be the problem.
I've tried recycling power several times with no luck.

What can I do to break it out of this?

I've queried Tom Hammond, N0SS, but being the weekend, don't
know how long it will be before he can reply.  So thought I'd
query the E'craft brain trust :-)

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #811 Locked Up

2008-06-21 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Thanks Bill.
I'll give these a try.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Bill W4ZV [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 #811 Locked Up





 Robert Tellefsen wrote:
 
  Guess it's my turn to have a problem.
  Rig here is K3 #811.
  Options are KAT3, KXV3, KBPF3, 400 Hz 8 pole xfil.
 
  My problem is that at turn-on I have every icon on the LCD display
on
  simultaneously, almost like an LCD display test.
  Rig doesn't respond to any commands.
  Tried connecting to the K3 Utility, and it says,
  Cannot communicate with K3.  I've checked both serial ports,
  so that doesn't appear to be the problem.
  I've tried recycling power several times with no luck.
 
  What can I do to break it out of this?
 

 Try rebooting the computer with the K3 off.  Then power on the K3.
If that
 doesn't work, try EE INIT on page 55 of the manual.  Here are a
couple of
 additional points I discovered when I did this once (submitted to
Elecraft
 but not sure it's in the current docs):

 **
 1.  4th bullet from bottom of p 55 When EE INIT completes...  I
found it
 necessary to PWR OFF and ON my K3 to continue the process.

 2.  3rd bullet from bottom If you have a computer...  My K3
Utility had to
 be closed and reopened to remove an error on the Config page
(something like
 colon missing at bottom of Utility Config window) which was
preventing me
 from checking Filter Configuration to see if Restore got all the
settings
 correct (...it did).
 **

 I also hope you've recently done a Config Save...otherwise you may
need to
 go through all the Cal procedures in the manual.

 73,  Bill

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 View this message in context:
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)

2008-06-19 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Gary
Mine came with software/firmware already installed.
However, they recommend you download after
testing to ensure you have the latest.  Worked
fine without the download, but always nice to
have the latest and greatest.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Nichols [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:19 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)


 I ordered my new K3 at Dayton which is scheduled for delivery in
Sept.  My
 question to the group is:

 Will the radio come with some version of software or firmware
installed or
 be dumb as a box of rocks just out of the box and require some
version of
 downloading before it will work at all.  Any heads up for when the
radio
 arrives would be appreciated.  TIA, de gary, kd9sv

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: TX off frequency

2008-06-07 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Simon
Don't have the article in front of me, but if
it says what I think it does, we used that technique
back in the 60's when I ran a Heathkit SB100
transceiver.  Worked a lot of DX with it, and
was nearly always spot on their frequency.
Worked really well.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Simon Brown (HB9DRV) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 2:52 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3: TX off frequency


 The harmonics of the voice, there was an interesting QEX article
using this
 as the basis of code for auto-tuning SSB signals.

 January 1999, Tune SSB Automatically by Robert Dick

 Simon Brown, HB9DRV

 --
 From: G4ILO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  How could he tell?
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Noise Reduction (NR) in FM Mode

2008-06-05 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi John
When I worked for Motorola, both their and GE's top of the line
two-way FM mobile radios did include noise blankers for the mobile
environment.  They worked quite well for their intended use.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: WA6L [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 7:34 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Noise Reduction (NR) in FM Mode




 Yesterday I discovered by accident (or stupidity) that if you have
Noise
 Reduction engaged and you go to FM mode, you do not receive any
intelligible
 signals.  You can tell that there is a signal, but you cannot make
it out.

 I realize that there is no earthy reason to use NR in FM.  But, if
you have
 NR engaged on another mode and go to FM, you will be sorry.

 So, perhaps on the we will get to it someday list there could be a
 firmware change to disallow noise reduction in the FM mode?  It
wouldn't
 hurt . . .

 73,

 John, WA6L


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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Noise Reduction (NR) in FM Mode

2008-06-05 Thread Bob Tellefsen
That could be, Ron.
I remember when GE had it in their radio, and we
didn't, it soon showed up so we could compete in bids.
I imagine the bid process drove that more than any
actual need :-)
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 8:12 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3: Noise Reduction (NR) in FM Mode



 ???

 I worked on FM gear in the land mobile business as a service rep and
 salesman and we *never* used a noise blanker. A limiting I.F.
amplifier was
 a basic part of the receiver design since the detector does not
respond to
 amplitude modulation at all, including noise.

 Noise does not modulate the frequency.

 Maybe Motorola didn't use good FM detectors. Some simple types of
FM
 detectors respond to both AM and FM.

 Come to think of it maybe that's why I outsold Motorola in our
market area
 with E.F. Johnson land mobile FM gear G.

 Ron AC7AC


 -Original Message-

 Hi John
 When I worked for Motorola, both their and GE's top of the line
two-way FM
 mobile radios did include noise blankers for the mobile environment.
They
 worked quite well for their intended use. 73, Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT100 and BL2 questions

2008-06-02 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Brian
What are your expectations for this antenna?

Used as a halfwave, say on 40m, its pattern will be that
of a regular dipole.  However, if you feed it at the end,
it becomes an endfed full wave on 20m.  It will not
have a nice major lobe at right angles to the wire, like
the dipole.  Instead, it will be a four-leafed clover type
of pattern.

If you want the pattern on the harmonic band to be at
right angles to the wire, then you need to center feed it
with the 450 ohm line.  That will give you what is called
two half waves in phase, with a nice major lobe at right
angles to the wire and about 2 dB gain over a simple
dipole.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 10:54 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 KAT100 and BL2 questions


 Does anyone know if the KAT100 has enough range to match a radiator
 that is close to (or is) an end-fed 1/2 wave? What I am thinking
about
 is feeding a dipole at twice its resonant frequency so that it is
 effectively two end-fed  1/2 wave sections and then feeding with
 ladder line. Now the ladder line will probably act as a transformer
to
 change the matching equation. (I know it won't change the SWR but
the
 magnitude of the resistance and reactance components will change.)

 This also brings up a question I asked much earlier but didn't get a
 good answer to. Will the Elecraft BL2 4:1 balun intended for 300/75
 ohm operation still work properly when feeding the equivalent of two
 end-fed half-wave antennas? If I recall these would represent about
an
 8000 ohm impedance. I was thinking of locating the balun very near
the
 tuner and using window line to the doublet. I am concerned about
 losses and arcing (100W) in the balun in that specific instance.

 --

 73 de Brian, WB6RQN
 Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT100 and BL2 questions

2008-06-02 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Ok Brian
I think I'm getting in step with you.
As an example, here I use a 40m dipole,
center fed with 450 ohm window line,
for 40m, 30m and 20m.

I realized from the beginning that the shack
end of the feedline would show a wildly
varying impedance, depending on the band.
I cut the basic feedline to give me a low
impedance with little reactance on 40m.
Then I add roughly a quarterwave section
on 20m to again give me a low impedance
feedpoint for my K2.  On 30m, I just use
the BL2 balun and set the switch for
whichever ratio gives the easiest match for
the KAT2 tuner.

Again, this doesn't answer your question
directly, because I chose to dodge the problem.
Using the 4:1 balun at a very high impedance
point on the feedline would be pretty lossy,
although it would make matching easier for the
KAT100.

In my case, running only 5w, I felt I didn't have
any spare watts to waste :-)

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bob Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 8:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KAT100 and BL2 questions



 On Jun 2, 2008, at 1:32 PM, Bob Tellefsen wrote:

  Brian
  What are your expectations for this antenna?
 
  Used as a halfwave, say on 40m, its pattern will be that
  of a regular dipole.  However, if you feed it at the end,
  it becomes an endfed full wave on 20m.  It will not
  have a nice major lobe at right angles to the wire, like
  the dipole.  Instead, it will be a four-leafed clover type
  of pattern.

 Yes, I am aware of the various patterns that occur with different
 lengths of radiator. That wasn't the question. The questions were
 (restated for clarity):

 1. What is the matching range of the KAT100, i.e. will it match an
 antenna fed at a voltage node (multiple of a 1/2 wave) rather than a
 current node (odd multiple of a 1/4 wave)? Yes, I know that the
 ability to achieve a conjugate match depends on the capacitance and
 inductance range of the tuner. Also this affects the range of the
real
 component (resistance) that can be matched and what frequency you
are
 trying to match it on.

 2. Does the BL2 have a problem when looking at a really high
 impedance, i.e. when center feeding a full-wave doublet? And yes, I
am
 aware that I really wouldn't want to feed the balun with coax from
the
 tuner but rather should put the balun as close to the tuner as
 possible and then run a low-loss balanced line from the balun to the
 doublet and that the feedline will act as a transformer to change
the
 impedance (resistance AND reactance) as seen by the balun and,
 therefore, the tuner.

 I guess the real question is whether I want to get a KAT100 and a
BL2
 or just stick with my SGC-231. The nice thing about the KAT100 is
that
 it doesn't draw power unless it is tuning. My SGC-231 draws power
all
 the time to hold in the relays. That sucks up more battery. Also it
is
 physically bigger. Looking at the schematics for both I can see that
 the SGC-231 has a greater range of C and L than the KAT100 does but
 maybe the KAT100 is enough, especially when ganged up with the BL2
to
 provide a 4:1 impedance ration to start with. I know the theory but
 was looking for a quick answer from the field of people here who
have
 more experience with this than I do.


  If you want the pattern on the harmonic band to be at
  right angles to the wire, then you need to center feed it
  with the 450 ohm line.  That will give you what is called
  two half waves in phase, with a nice major lobe at right
  angles to the wire and about 2 dB gain over a simple
  dipole.

 Right. I was aware of that. Right now I am primarily interested in
 what the limitations of the KAT100 and BL2 are.

 But I appreciate where you are going with this. You are thinking
along
 the same lines I am but I was still back at the basic mechanics of
 matching using the KAT100 and then using the balun to feed the
 balanced line irrespective of the radiation pattern. And, yes, end
 feeding a 1-wave wire or greater gets you four major lobes. OTOH,
take
 four of those and put them into a rhombus ... :-)


 --

 73 de Brian, WB6RQN
 Brian Lloyd - brian HYPHEN wb6rqn AT lloyd DOT com




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Need for compressor

2008-05-29 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Intriguing idea, Lyle.
Could you expand on it a bit?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Lyle Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ian White GM3SEK [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Need for compressor


 Hello Ian!

  ... Any transmitter with effective compression
  will also benefit from a noise gate or some other kind of
nonlinear
  threshold, to reduce the noise background when there's no actual
speech.
  This would be something like VOX, but with a different
configurable
  threshold and hold/release dynamics.
 
  To obtain full value from the K3's highly effective compressor,
could a
  noise gate be added to 'Lyle's List', please?

 Instead of a Noise Gate with two or three variables, I've
implemented an
 *experimental* Downward Expander with a single variable (threshold).
It
 certainly kills the background noise here!

 We're listening...

 Lyle KK7P

 PS - Not sure when it'll be in the release code.  Higher priority
items
 in the queue at the moment.

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Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX

2008-05-28 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Now I'm curious.
When I installed my 400 Hz filter, it had no
offset info on it.  Is this normal?
73, Bob N6WG
K3 #811

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Hembree [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 10:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SV: Getting Ready For The 2nd RX


On Wed, May 28, 2008 at 11:49 AM, Bill Tippett btippett at
alum.mit.edu wrote:

Elecraft will eventually publish some instructions regarding 5-pole
filters for
diversity, but my understanding is that the peak variation between 500
Hz filters is a maximum of 50 Hz.  My guess is that they'll simply
tell us to split the difference on the 500s and not worry about it.
If the 200 Hz has total variation of  50 Hz, then it might require
more careful matching (since 50/210 is a significant percentage of
total BW), but I've not seen any variation numbers on the 200 yet.

Bill,
The variation in filter offsets must be larger than you think.  My
KFL3A-500 has an offset of -0.75 kHz, which is 90-100 Hz higher than
the values cited by Orin.  The offset of my KFL3A-200 is -0.95 kHz,
which oddly enough matches the offset of my KFL3A-2.7K, not that it
matters.
Thanks for the heads up on filter matching for diversity receiving.
73, Gary, N7IR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - 50 Hz Shift

2008-05-27 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Yes, my experience also.  50 Hz steps are too much
at the narrower DSP filter settings.  10 Hz would be
good and BW less than 200 Hz.

73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Roland Guidry [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 4:30 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - 50 Hz Shift


 Working the WPX contest this weekend, I tried using the Shift when
the DSP
 filter was as narrow as 50-100 Hz for some very weak contacts due to
QRM. K3
 performed beautifully on CW I might add, but I think the shift
adjustment in
 50 Hz increments is too large. I would often lose the station I was
trying
 to work.

 I would have perferred something smaller even as low as 10 Hz. Is it
just
 me, or is this something that can be menu adjusted in the future. I
think
 this would only be needed in CW/Digital modes.

 Roland  NA5Q
 K3 - Serial No. 845
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s in WPX M/S - WOW!

2008-05-27 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Vic
You didn't say, but I assume this is under the
most recent firmware download?
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Vic K2VCO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bob Evans [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s in WPX M/S - WOW!


 Bob Evans wrote:
I
  never thought I'd be so happy with a 150 Hz filter bandwidth.
Honestly, the
  100 Hz and 50 Hz bandwidths were useless though as the signal
level dropped
  significantly.  It seemed much better a few firmware versions ago,
but 150
  Hz worked fine for us...I was just getting greedy by trying to
use the 100
  and 50 Hz BW.

 I have just found out that there is a bug that causes a gain
reduction
 just for these two bandwidths if they are set for FIR filters and
not IIR.

 You can fix it now by switching IIR ON, and when Elecraft fixes the
bug
 you can choose either IIR or FIR for these filters as you prefer.

 To switch between IIR and FIR, tap '7' on the keypad when you're in
any
 filter setup menu entry (e.g., CONFIG:FLx BW). You want it to say
IIR ON.
 -- 
 73,
 Vic, K2VCO
 Fresno CA
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Watery Audio Distortion

2008-05-16 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hello John
If you have another ssb receiver available that can tune
to the K2 IF frequency, try listening to ssb directly out
of the KSB2 and see if it is watery there.  If not,
the problem lies elsewhere in the rig.  If it is watery,
which I doubt it will be, since you say you get the
same result with two different KSB2 modules, then
the problem may be in the KSB2s.
Also check the stability of the oscillators by listening
to them.  Is there any warble at all in  their frequencies?
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG



- Original Message - 
From: John Huffman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 7:12 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Watery Audio Distortion


 There has always been some watery distortion on my SSB signal from
my
 K2/100.

 It is there with or without the KPA100.

 It is there with three different mikes.

 It is there with two different KSB2 modules.

 It is there on both upper and lower sideband.

 The CW signal sounds pretty good, no obvious problem.

 The SSB distortion is not real bad, but noticeable.

 The ALC is high and has a hard time settling down on 80M.  It
settles to
 two bars but may start at 6 or 7 bars.

 The ALC on 10M is just one bar.

 The watery distortion is on all bands 80M thru 10M and into a dummy
load.

 I assume the problem is not KPA100, KSB2, mikes, or RF getting in.
The
 problem has been there for years (sn 3194) but has worked it's way
up
 the fix list.  At this point I'm not sure where to start.

 Suggestions welcomed!

 73 de K1ESE
 John

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[Elecraft] Ke: Programming SWT and SWH options

2008-05-14 Thread Bob Tellefsen
The programmers' reference says that the SWH and SWT 
functions are not implemented yet.  However, I've been
told that preceding such a command with K3; should
make them work.  It hasn't for me, so I'm asking if
anyone else has attempted to get these functions to
program yet?  Were you successful?  If so, what did you
do to make it work?

Thanks and 73
Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)

2008-05-13 Thread Bob Tellefsen
You're right, Dave.
I have three of them.
Very handy little beasts.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: David Yarnes [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Brian Lloyd
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft Reflector
elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)


 The BL2 (switchable balun) will handle 250 watts!  That should be
enough.

 Dave W7AQK


 - Original Message - 
 From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft Reflector
 elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 9:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)


  Hi Brian
  I don't recall if you mentioned what power level you
  would be using with your K2.  If it is running barefoot,
  without the 100w PA, you could use one of the Elecraft
  switchable baluns.  They switch between 1:1 and 4:1
  ratios, giving you a good chance to match most balanced
  feeds.
 
  Even though the rig end of the line may be reactive, due
  to impedance mismatches along the line, the switchable
  balun can be used to reduce the amount of mismatch the
  ATU then has to to cope with.
 
  This makes a simple dipole with tuned feeders a nice
  multiband antenna.  On a given band, try both switch
  positions and see which one helps the ATU make the best
  match.
 
  Good luck and 73
  Bob N6WG
 
  - Original Message - 
  From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:37 AM
  Subject: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)
 
 
  OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings
up
  a
  second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.
 
  Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually
loops
  or
  dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most
tuners
  offer an unbalanced output. SGC says, just connect up the
antenna.
  Seems to me that a balun would improve things and keep RF off the
  coax
  and power leads to the tuner. But how well do baluns handle huge
  mismatch?
 
  Just off the top of my head, it seems to me that the tuner at the
  top
  of a pole with two legs sloped down, i.e. inverted-V, would make
a
  pretty good omni all-band antenna.
 
  More thinking aloud.
 
  Brian Lloyd
  Granite Bay Montessori School  9330 Sierra College Bl
  brian AT gbmontessori DOT com  Roseville, CA 95661
  +1.916.367.2131 (voice)+1.791.912.8170 (fax)
 
  PGP key ID:  12095C52A32A1B6C
  PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0  CC09 1209 5C52
A32A
  1B6C
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?

2007-04-06 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Fred
Any antenna heavily loaded with coils will show a narrow bandwidth.
In effect, the coils and the capacitance of the antenna elements
across them form a tuned circuit.  The higher the Q of the tuned
circuit (meaning the lower the coil losses) the narrower the
bandwidth, but the higher the efficiency.  If you find a loaded
antenna with a large bandwidth, it is by definition much less
efficient due to the inherent losses.

There really is no free lunch.

Sometimes you can fudge a bit by tuning such an antenna to
the center of a band, and using an autotuner like the Elecraft
T1 at the feedpoint.  Then, once you get away from the resonant
frequency of the antenna, it acts as if it were a simple nonresonant
centerfed piece of wire and the tuner will give you as good a
match as it can.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG


- Original Message -
From: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, April 06, 2007 8:42 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Buddistick or Buddipole?


 I've been considering the Buddi antenna, for a while
 now.  It seems to be built well.

 One thing I've not been able to establish - is how
 much HF bandwidth does the antenna exhibit - once one
 sets the clips on those 2 coils, and gets resonance?
 I just wonder if a constant readjusting is necessary
 with this antenna, when we move up and down the
 HF bands?   20M CW  then 20M SSB ...

 In other words - if antenna was all set up outside,
 would a HF user be required to continually adjust
 either the clips or the whips - when an operator
 goes from SSB to CW portions of the band, etc.?

 I tried some years back, to make a dipole out of
 Hustler mobile elements, with some adjustable whips
 - but never was able to get it to resonate very
 reliably.   Those were in my no-tuner IC-730 days.

 Those are my questions regarding the Buddi line
 of dipoles and verticals, with coils and clips.

 Fred
 N3CSY, FL

 Very seriously considering one.

 Fred, N3CSY
 FL







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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

2007-03-29 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Chris
There are two actions I would recommend.
First is a rotatable receiving loop to help reduce
local noise.  The best way to reduce noise is to
prevent it from entering the receiver.  It can be
tuned or untuned.  If tuned, it will be more
sensitive, but limited to one band.  If untuned,
it will be a bit less sensitive, but you could also
use it on 80m.  
Second is adding the KDSP2.  It will lower your
apparent noise by two means.  The first is the
narrower audio filtering which lets less noise
pass.  The second is the DSP noise reduction
algorithm which will improve your signal to noise
ratio in recovered audio.
Use both of these together, and you should see
a distinct improvement in what you can hear.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Chris Kantarjiev [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 6:24 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?


 Does this combination make sense? I operate 100% CW. These days, I seem
 to be chasing a lot of very weak signals with questionable readability.
 My vertical isn't the quietest of antennas (they never are) and my
 neighborhood has a fair amount of QRM on 40m during real people hours.
 
 For example, this morning I was trying to get KH2/JR4GPA. Copying his
 sign was very tough, but I finally got it and confirmed it. I called
 a couple of times but realized that I wouldn't recognize my call even
 if he returned it! Just on the egde of ESP.
 
 So ... would AF or DSP help me in this situation? The noise blanker
 doesn't seem to do much good for the noise sources my neighbors provide.
 
 Thanks!
 
 73 de chris K6DBG
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

2007-03-29 Thread Bob Tellefsen
One additional thought.
It is not unusual to use an external AF filter with
headphones.  I have a homebrew passive filter
that I put in line occasionally.  It is not needed
so much for additional selectivity as to reduce
higher pitched white noise that comes through
along with signal.
You can buy these filters or just cobble your own
out of junkbox parts.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Tom Zeltwanger [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Stephen W. Kercel
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?


 Tom:

 Can you still use the plain audio CW filters once you install the
 DSP? This DSP is extremely flexible and I can't image that each
 person couldn't get some
 settings that will be useful to them, although it may take some time.

 You can have only one (1) audio filter installed at a time, KAF2 or
 KDSP2, but not both, sorry.

 73,

 Tom   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?

2007-03-29 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Chris
For 40m, a rotatable loop could be as simple as a diamond shape
with maybe 3 ft sides.  All loops are not made out of rigid coax
in a 10 ft diameter circle.  Also, multi-turn looops allow for a smaller
size while still giving good performance.  A 3 ft loop wouldn't be very
large, and ,standing vertically, might still be below the sight line of a
fence between you and your neighbors.
Loops don't have to be high in the air to work.
There is a ton of material on receiving loops on the web.  Look
around a bit and find one that seems to fit your situation.  It's a
ridiculously cheap experiment.  Give it a try and let us know
how it works for you.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Chris Kantarjiev [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 9:54 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] DSP and CW?


  As it has been mentioned, perhaps the best solution to your noise
  situation is to use a separate receiving antenna such as a rotating loop
  (assuming something like a beverage is not feasible).

 Yes, but. I have a vertical because I am antenna limited on my sub-1/8
acre
 suburban Palo Alto lot :-)  No room for a beverage, and I think I'd
 be lynched if I tried to put up a rotatable loop!

 Everything's a compromise...

 73,
 chris
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Re: [Elecraft] RS 22-507 Power Supply

2007-03-27 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Gus
I remember reading somewhere that switching supplies
require some minimum load to be stable.  You could
try putting a small resistive load, maybe 50 mA, on the
P/S and see if it calms down.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message - 
From: Augie Hansen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 9:04 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] RS 22-507 Power Supply 


 I have been using a Radio Shack switching power supply (part number RS 
 22-507), which is a 13.8 volt, 3 amp supply both to power my K2 and to 
 power a test setup for a microcontroller project. The output is clean 
 and stable when the unit is powered on.
 
 However, the supply is exhibiting a strange behavior when the unit is 
 turned off. It puts out a short full-voltage pulse (~0.2 second) at 
 intervals of several minutes. These pulses occur  whether the supply is 
 connected to a load or not. It is not related to anything on the AC 
 input side. The same behavior was seen at a temporary lab I set up in 
 Rhode Island and here in my lab in Denver.
 
 I wonder if any of you have had a similar experience with this model or 
 any other switching supply. If so, please let me know.
 
 73,
 Gus Hansen
 KB0YH
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - How good on SSB?

2007-03-16 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Fred
I run my K2 at 5w all the time as a QRP station.
I enter many of the major contests and have a
great time.
You do need to be a bit thick-skinned, though, as
you will often be walked on by higher power stations
that just don't hear you.  Or they call the station you
are calling at the same time, and just outshout your
signal.  But a little persistence pays off and you can
get your QSO eventually.
Like most everything else we do in radio, the antenna
will have a bigger effect on your success than the rig.
If you have a decent antenna, you can have a ball.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Fred (FL) [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2007 7:35 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 - How good on SSB?


 Thinking about building my 2nd K2.  First # 54xx,
 was a very sucessful build.

 Does anyone have thoughts on how well the K2,
 operates, by itself, as a SSB HF rig?  It would
 seem 15W is kind of pushing it for a suitable
 signal - but just wondered if any successful
 K2 SSB ops are around.

 And I've always had this belief that 15W is not
 enough to drive many or any amps?

 Thanks,
 Fred, N3CSY






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Re: [Elecraft] Question from a newbie

2007-03-10 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Pete
It all depends on the type of noise you experience.
For some kinds of noise, the KNB2 works like magic.
For other kinds, it has no effect at all.  For some odd
noises, it sort of works.
Ultimately, it's a crap shoot.  It is an inexpensive option,
and I would add it as insurance for those times when
it does work.  I have it in both my K2s.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: B Peter Treml [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2007 4:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Question from a newbie


 I have come into possession of a K2/100 with the DSP filter (KDSP2) but
does
 not have the noise blanker (KNB2).
 Question: (1) Is the noise blanker a worthwhile purchase?
 Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 73, Pete-K8PT

 
 B. Peter Treml [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 725 W. Magnetic St.   www.qrz.com/k8pt
 Marquette, Mi. 49855
 USA

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Re: [Elecraft] steel shed and balanced feed

2007-02-20 Thread Bob Tellefsen
David
You didn't mention what kind of openings, if any, already exist in
the shed walls.

Two things you can do.
1.  Put a gradual twist in the feedline, say one revolution every
six feet or so.  This evens out the unbalancing due to the nearness
of the metal shed.

2.  Where you do find an opening to pass the line through, come in
directly at right angles to the metal so that the line is only exposed to
the edge of the metal as it passes through.  I think I read somewhere
that the opening should be about three times the width of the feedline,
and the feedline should be centered in it.

I live in a house with aluminum siding.  In the garage, over my station
table,
I put a 2 inch diameter hole in the wall and covered it with an outdoor
plastic entrance box.  It has a hole in the bottom for feed lines to come
through, while keeping rain out.  Absolutely no problems so far, after
five years.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude


- Original Message -
From: David [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2007 10:01 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] steel shed and balanced feed


 Hello All,

 Here's another question for the antenna gurus.  I would like to use a
balanced
 feeder feeder for a multiband dipole.  The problem is that my shack is in
a
 steel shed and we all know running a balanced feedline near metal objects
is
 a no-no.  So, is there a way of getting a balanced feedline from my
antenna
 to my balanced antenna tuner through steel?  Also, my antenna is away from
 the shed so the feedline would not approach the shed at a perpendicular
 angle.

 73 de David VK5DG
 K2 S/N 5492
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Contesting

2007-02-20 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Obviously, tapping A=B is faster, easier and probably more accurate in the
rush of a contest situation. 

Except when I forgot to tap :-)

73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message -
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2007 1:21 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Contesting


That's were I use SPLIT. That lets me tune the receiver using the big knob
without changing the transmit frequency. Whenever I need to move my transmit
freq, I just tune to where I want it to be and tap A=B. Then I can go on
tuning the receiver using the main tuning knob.

That's a legacy of operating for decades with separate transmitters and
receivers. One finds a clear frequency (or tunes in the station to call),
then throws a switch that causes the transmitter to produce a low-level
signal and tunes the transmitter VFO until the signal is zero beat with the
desired frequency and turns off the low-level signal. Then one is ready to
transmit.

Obviously, tapping A=B is faster, easier and probably more accurate in the
rush of a contest situation.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-


On Tuesday 20 February 2007 10:50, J F wrote:

 RIT - In my entire 33-year ham career I have never
 felt the need for RIT (and XIT even less).

  I use it all the time - when people call me they're
nearly always off my frequency and outside the narrow
filters' passbands.  Not everyone has an Elecraft rig
and some transceivers have no feature to enable
zero beating.
  Using an external receiver and an external crystal
controlled oscillator, I adjusted a variable capacitor
in my IC-735 to make zero beating an incoming signal
correspond to the CW sidetone, as the K2 does.
Unlike the K2, it was open-loop, but better than the
unadjusted IC-735.
  When I obtained my G4ICV licencse in 1979, it was,
if not now (?), a requirement that the station should
be capable of listening to its own transmissions.
Having only one transceiver and unable to monitor its
output was a licence violation - not that it was ever
enforced.
 I started out on the HF bands using separates:
an Eddystone EA12 (that I still have) and a Yaesu FL101 transmitter.  I felt
more confident of zero beating with those than the K2.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for February 11th 12th, 2007

2007-02-12 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Kevin
The N7WG Bill? you show is actually me.
N0SS miscopied my call when I checked in.
I was working on my antennas and tuning
across the band when I heard the net, so
decided to check in, just for the heck of it :-)
Was QRU, so just went on with my antenna work.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message -
From: Kevin Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, February 11, 2007 7:34 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for February 11th  12th, 2007


 Good Evening,
 Two very good nets.  I wish I could have worked everyone I heard but
 some of you were very far down below the noise.  I did get TF but there
 was one very, very weak signal on 40 meters which I simply could not get a
 letter.  However, it appears the hail signs along with calling by areas
 has broken up the pileups quite nicely.  I may simplify even further and
 try East, Mid, and All to work more rapidly.  Tom works East and West and
 does well.  He does have a lot more experience at this though ;)  You
 heard me turn up my speed a few times but I made sure to go right back to
 call CQ.  I wanted to run through Tom's list quickly so I could get back
 to you all.
 There was a little QSB on both 20 and 40 meters this evening but both
 bands were fairly quiet.  Made it easier to run the net.  On 40 I only got
 two before I handed off to Tom.  I found a few of you had not gotten on
 the air by the time I passed the net but you were loud to me.  For once I
 worked Fred, K6DGW, direct.  Normally he is simply too close.  I did get a
 little of his check in on 20 meters but it was tough copy.  On 40 meters
 he was pretty good.  I was also hearing the West Hills in Beaverton
 because I heard Karl, N7NLU, check in both times.
 I got a few weather reports but mostly just signal reports this
 evening.  Southern California is having rain tonight much like I am
 having.  Gloomy and chilly all day today.  But it is my cleaning day so I
 don't notice the weather much.  I did find a break in the rain to get my
 load of wood inside.  Sam is guarding the fire so it does not go unstoked!

 The lists =

 On 14050 kHz at 2256z:
 N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
 K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968
 K1EV - Bill - CT - K2 - 2152
 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993
 WB3AAL - Ron - PA - K1 - 1011QNI #5!
 K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608
 K4GT - Jim - GA - K2 - 2015
 K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422   QNI #40!!!
 KH6NO/W7 - Willie - NV - K2 - 1593   QNI #15!!
 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
 K5BGB - Rod - TX - K2 - 1126
 N7WG - Bill - CA - ??
 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398
 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
 N7NLU - Karl - OR - K2 - 4227
 KE5AKL - Mike - NM - ??
 W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
 VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384
 ND0V - Greg - CO - K2 - 4411
 N6JW - John - CA - K2 - 3290 QNI #45!!!
 K0NEB - Joe - NE - KX1 - 1493
 W1TF - Ty - GA - K1 - 1423

 On 7044.5 kHz at 0156z:
 N0SS - Tom - MO - K2 - 008
 KH6NO/W7 - Willie - NV - K2 - 1593
 K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345
 K0NEB - Joe - NE - KX1 - 1493
 W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
 WD4LST - Pete - FL - K2 - 5813
 N7NLU - Karl - OR - K2 - 4227
 NK6A - Don - CA - K2 - 1217
 W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
 K4GT - Jim - GA - K2 - 2015
 K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398
 VE6ITA - John - AB - K2 - 5384
 AA4NN - Joe - SC - K2 - 3751

 This was very close to the record number of check ins.  Not bad for the
 bottom of the solar cycle!  I wonder what will happen in two years?  By
 then K1EV will be armchair copy again and I will have to develop new
 techniques to break the pileups.  We may even get a check in from Rupert
 once Geoff teaches his favorite pheasant how to peck out his callsign ;)
 Thank you for the support over the years.  It is very nice to hear from
 you all and see what we can do each Sunday evening.  Once I knock down the
 leaning trees I'll be able to hoist my antenna up to a better height.
 This will help me on 20 meters but I don't think I can find a tree tall
 enough to make much difference on 40 meters.  But the windstorm did clear
 a large swath of land for a prospective loop antenna.  Now if I can
 convince Karl to drive out in the outback to help me hoist it ;)

 I do need a couple of fills for rig and serial number but there is always
 next week and the one after that.  If there are any errors please do not
 hesitate to bring it to my attention and provide the correct data.

 Until next week stay well,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Station 5th Class)

















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Re: [Elecraft] IF shift

2007-02-08 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Ron

One of the strengths of the K2 is its single-conversion design. That is, in
part, responsible for the extremely good specifications the receiver enjoys.
However, i.f. shift such as other rigs often feature require a
multiple-conversion design with all the issues that come with additional
mixers, oscillators and complexity. 

Well, I'm not sure this is totally true.  Before I got my first K2, I used a
Kenwood TS-180S which had a very nice IF shift feature.  It was also a
single conversion radio, with an IF of about 8.3 MHz.  I loaned the manual
to Eric and Wayne so they could see how it was done.

Sure wish there was a way to implement it in the K2.
73, Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude



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Re: [Elecraft] Sidetone volume

2006-12-28 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Sverre
The problem with the in-line volume control is that it will reduce the
desired signal
also.  What is really requested here is a way to reduce the sidetone level
when using
headphones, but leaving it relatively loud when on speaker.  That would be a
neat
programming feat for Wayne, but I don't know if it is really doable.
Imagine, two
sidetone menu settings, one for speaker audio and one for headphone audio.
That would
be an ultimate solution.  The volume control would then control the desired
signal,
just as at present.
73, and Happy New year
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message -
From: Sverre Holm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 27, 2006 5:30 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Sidetone volume


  I think you may have hit the nail on the head. I DO have to reduce the
  volume greatly when using the headphones. From my perusal of the
schematic
  for the K2, it looks like if I changed R36 

 There isn't really any need to modify resistor values in the K2 to achieve
 what you want, unless you like to play inside it. It can be done much
 easier, I think, with an external headphone extension cable with a
built-in
 volume control. A picure explains what I mean better than words: go to
 http://www.clasohlson.no/Product/Product.aspx?id=383540 and click on the
 picture (this is the one I got locally in Norway).

 It will give you continously variable volume control so you don't have to
 experiment with fixed resistors inside the K2.

 I am sure RadioShack has something similar and that someone else on the
list
 can help find it.

 73

 Sverre
 LA3ZA
 http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/


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Re: [Elecraft] KDSP2 Performance

2006-08-04 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hello Elliott

The KDSP2 and the KNB2 work together.  The KNB2 blanker handles
pulse noises, while the KDSP2 works more on the white noises you
hear.  Neither by itself can do the whole job, but together they work
just fine.  Sometimes one kind of noise will predominate, and some-
times the other.  Sometimes both occur together.  It's really nice to
have the combo available to handle whatever you get hit with.

Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: Elliott Lawrence [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft List Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 9:01 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] KDSP2 Performance





I am thinking of adding the KDSP2 to my trusty K2.  I have listened to the
.wav files on the Elecraft site and the reduction in ambient noise is
impressive.  I know that the DSP is designed to handle random/thermal noise
but can anyone comment on its actual ability to handle pulse/burst noise
such as that generated by power lines etc.

Thanks es 73,
Elliott WA6TLA
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Re: [Elecraft] Alaska - Cruise

2006-08-02 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Julius
Some years ago the xyl and I took that cruise and had a fine time.
I took my HT along and was able to talk on a variety of repeaters from
W7s in the Puget Sound area to VE7s along the passage to KL7s
up in the Alaska panhandle.
Hope you have a nice trip.
73, Bob N6WG
- Original Message - 
From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 02, 2006 6:57 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Alaska - Cruise


 Any Elecraft folks at the port o' calls for the
 inland passage Alaska cruises?
 
 Maybe someone else is doing the September 10 Princess
 Alaska Cruise (from Seattle)?
 
 Cheers,
 Julius
 n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] QRP Power Level?

2006-07-07 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Kent
I went through this a while back.
QRP for every contest I could find is spec'd at 5w out,
cw or ssb.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG


- Original Message -
From: Kent Tannery [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 8:25 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] QRP Power Level?


 Can someone tell me the official definition of QRP Power Level?  Is it 5
watts for voice and CW modes?  I notice that many contests have a QRP class
but they do not define QRP power and I cannot find it on ARRL site.  Thanks,
   Kent
   KD5SHM
   K2/100 #4631
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Re: [Elecraft] Input vs. output power question

2006-07-06 Thread Bob Tellefsen
You should request 5w, as the rules call for 5w from the transmitter, not
the antenna.
Good luck.  Hope to hear you and work you.
73, Bob N6WG/qrp

- Original Message -
From: Bekir Kemal Ataman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, July 06, 2006 1:37 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Input vs. output power question


 I intend to join the IARU HF contest in the QRP category (i.e. 5 watts
output).

 I have got a RG58 going to my inverted V antenna. The coax is about 45
 meters in length (roughly 135 feet).

 How much power should I request from my K2 to get 5 watts output from the
 antenna?

 73!
 de TA2RX

 --
 Bekir Kemal Ataman
 ArchiMac BBS Sysop  Webmaster http://www.archimac.org/


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Re: [Elecraft] Slow code, etc

2006-06-26 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Alan
Yes, I use a keyboard during contests, but not for sending
conversational sentences.
In a contest, the exchange is pretty cut and dried, and lends
itself to computer use.  I have all my exchange info stored
under various F-keys within my TR-LOG contest logging
program.
For regualr conversation, I still use my paddles, as it's too
much trouble to bother with the keyboard.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 3:13 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Slow code, etc


 I remember reading the results of a poll on K3WWP's website that indicated
 about 1/3 of cw folks used keyboards. I wonder if during contests if you
may
 have a higher percentage on keyboard making it a bit more difficult to
slow
 down  (change settings) for the slower operators?

 I sort of like my CW drawl and probably won't change much in the next few
 years.  But are many of you changing to keyboards?

 Alan  KB7MBI
 Woodinville, WA



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Re: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?

2006-06-12 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi JT
You mentioned the tree with a 50 ft support point.
What do you have to support the ends of your wires?
Also, what kind of real estate do you have to spread out
over?  That would help us a lot in suggesting something.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
- Original Message -
From: JT Croteau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: QRP-L [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net;
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2006 11:25 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] What antenna should I build?


 My only antenna currently here at the home QTH is an HF2V vertical
 which does great for long haul DX on 40 and 80 but in general is not
 good for local or regional work.  I just launched some monofilament
 over the only high branch in my yard at 50'.

 As I only have a single support, I'm looking at some suggestions on
 constructing a multiband vee wire antenna but have limited materials
 on hand and even more limited $$ to go out an buy stuff at the moment.

 Here is what I have in the junk box:

 75' of RG213
 ~30' of solid conductor commercial ladder line
 ~800' of 14ga stranded insulated THN wire
 Assortment of dog-bone style insulators
 Wide assortment of PVC and nuts/bolts

 What can I do with the above and the internal tuner in my K1 without
 going out and buying anything?  Ideally, I'd like something that will
 load well on 80/40/30/20/15 but will settle for 40-15.

 Anyone have any ideas?

 Thanks

 --
  JT Croteau - W6FO - Canton, GA | K1 #292
  ARS #2,147 | NoGA-QRP | SEDXC | ARRL
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Re: [Elecraft] Cap meters AADE version

2005-01-13 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Go to  http://www.aade.com/ and ask
if you can buy just the housing.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

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Re: [Elecraft] DMM Minimum Capacitance Measurements ?

2005-01-11 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Brian
You won't regret buying the LC IIB meter when you can.
It is pretty much the defacto standard among QRP builders.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
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