Re: [Elecraft] Lightning concerns: Was: K4 Remote: My QTH vs. a friend's, many miles to the north

[Charles Hill]

Peter, Mike,

I think Elecraft does a reasonable job at protecting equipment inputs.  For 
lightning protection, there is much literature on methods and practices.  A 
principle to keep in mind is protect at the “point of entry”, the desk setup, 
the entry to the house/shack, etc.  Another is proper grounding of the 
equipment, separate from the cabling.  Optoisolators for USB, surge protectors 
for Ethernet, surge protector power strips for AC (I like Tripp Lite Isotel) 
are all part of a in-depth, layered defense.  

Since protection is a system level problem, what can be done at the component 
(radio) level is limited.  

Don’t forget the antenna feed line itself.

Regards,
Chuck Hill K0MV


> On May 5, 2024, at 20:21, Peter Hall  wrote:
> 
> Hello Jorge,
> 
> Thanks for an interesting thread, which elicited some good technical replies 
> as well as some undeserved and rather haughty tut-tutting, presumably about 
> valuable mail column-cm: the remedy for the latter is, of course, the delete 
> button - a facility with which any reader of this mailer is well-practiced at 
> using.
> 
> I get the point you're making and have considerable sympathy for it: in a 
> highly connected, and possibly remote, environment is it desirable for a 
> manufacturer to do better than baseline digital I/O protection, especially as 
> manufacturers themselves tout the remote connectivity as a selling point? I 
> think it is, and I appreciate that you're not asking for magic: e.g, for 
> primary lightning protection.  Any increased port robustness, including 
> galvanic isolation, is worth thinking about and - most importantly - so is 
> bench and field serviceability.  The all-too-common madness of entry-level 
> ports on a dense motherboard is well worth avoiding!
> 
> You mention the KPA1500 and I'm also a rather far-flung user of this PA.  I 
> can, and do, re-invent as many wheels as I need to in order to run safely a 
> local and remote station but the KPA1500 service situation is egregious: no 
> schematic and not even a decent block diagram to show port internal 
> connectivity etc.
> 
> Anyway, thanks again for the topic and the opportunity to register a vote for 
> more robust I/O design, better serviceability and improved documentation.  I 
> hope your challenges are behind you soon!
> 
> 73, Peter (VK6HP)
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
> Behalf Of Jorge Diez - CX6VM
> Sent: Monday, 6 May 2024 1:42 AM
> To: Mike Fatchett W0MU 
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Lightning concerns: Was: K4 Remote: My QTH vs. a 
> friend's, many miles to the north
> 
> hello
> 
> To finish with this topic, I was just wondering if a device that is intended 
> for use in remote stations, always connected and in some cases with no one to 
> disconnect during storms, could not have a better USB connector, for example
> 
> If he tells me it can't be done, fine, my question has been answered and 
> thank you very much.
> 
> time to move on to other virtues of Elecraft
> 
> 73,
> Jorge
> CX6VM/CW5W
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S trouble

[Charles Hill]

Have you tried:
Pressing the XMIT/TUNE button.  For TUNE you have to hold in down for a 
few seconds.  

The transmitter should then transmit a power output intended for tuning.  

Second test:
Press the XMIT button, just a quick push.  Then try the key.

73,
Chuck


> On Mar 21, 2024, at 13:01, Carol Richards  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I am still having problems keying my K3S. I checked everything . The K3S is 
> set with vox on. The key goes directly to the rear jack.
> 
> I am sure it is something dumb that I missed. Please any help out there?
> 
> Carol
> 
> 609-410-8603
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] A dumb question about lightning

[Charles Hill]

> On Jul 28, 2023, at 17:13, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 7/28/2023 1:31 PM, Al Lorona wrote:
>> Please don't laugh at me; I'm a transplant from a region of the country with 
>> essentially no lightning to a region where you have to worry about it quite 
>> a bit.
> 
> The answer is, as KK9A said, to follow proper grounding and bonding to the 
> letter. N0AX's ARRL Book on the topic, to which I contributed, is excellent. 
> You want the Second Edition, published about a year ago. The book also 
> references the slide deck for my tutorial talks. Don't let "audio" in the 
> link fool you -- it's all about grounding and bonding in the shack for 
> lightning protection and to minimize RFI.
> 
> http://k9yc.com/GroundingAndAudio.pdf

Good suggestions, but there is never enough protection.  Best to have a 
“defense in depth” strategy.

> 
> On 7/28/2023 3:04 PM, Keith Trinity WE6R wrote:
> > Please, PLEASE disconnect your COMPUTER from your radio(s) if lightning
> > is in the area!
> >
> > Almost ALWAYS lightning damaged gear that comes in for repair, was hit
> > _thru the comm port!_
> > (lightning hits Cable/DSL lines).
> 
> This is the result of failure to follow proper grounding and bonding, and the 
> failure of equipment mfrs to properly bond cable shields to the chassis at 
> the point of entry. That failure to common to all ham mfrs, including 
> Elecraft. This construction error was first addressed in 1994 by a ham 
> working in pro audio, Neil Muncy, ex-W3WJE (SK), and he called it "The Pin 
> One Problem," because Pin 1 of the XLR connectors used to carry balanced 
> audio is the shield contact. I addressed it beginning on page 5 of this RFI 
> tutorial, which started out life in 2007.
> 
> k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf

Also good suggestions.  Additionally, go to Amazon and get a USB isolator.  
This breaks the ground connection between the computer and the radio.  Again, 
defense in depth.

> 
> A major contributor to that lightning damage are the MOV-based surge 
> protectors provide power to interconnected equipment. The MOVs short to the 
> green wire; the IR drop in the green wire from that current spike raises the 
> reference potential for equipment plugged into it, and the difference between 
> that and the chassis of interconnected equipment that's grounded somewhere 
> else fries the interconnected circuitry. We started seeing this in pro audio 
> systems in the early '90s, with no antennas involved. The solution was 
> elimination of those MOV protectors, replacing them with series-mode units 
> that stored surge in a monster inductor, then discharged it slowly as a 
> trickle after the strike had passed.
> 
> A colleague blew out the Ethernet ports of computers in his small design 
> office from exactly this mechanism. Again, no antennas were involved.

Yes that is true too.  You can also get an ethernet lightning protector which 
has surge protectors in it (gas discharge tubes, not MOVs).  You need to have a 
ground return for it to be effective so back to the grounding that Jim is 
talking about.  

Oh, disconnect the radio.  

73,
Chuck K0MV

> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 & KPOD

[hawley, charles j jr]

I've used two KPods connected to the K4 at the same time. The buttons are the 
same of course but the knobs can be VFO A and VFOB which is kind of handy at 
times.

​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Ramon Batista 
Sent: Sunday, March 5, 2023 5:20 PM
To: Fred Jensen 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 & KPOD

Hi Fred, My KPOD is connected to my K4 and K3s, but can use it in one radio
at the time.

On Sun, Mar 5, 2023 at 6:11 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:

> Do I understand the K4 order page correctly that my KPOD currently on my
> K3 will also plug into and work with a K4 ... should I decide to spring
> for one?
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
>
>
> --
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[Elecraft] Interference from KPA1500 power supply

[Charles W. Shaw]

Yesterday I noticed in going from 100 watts to near a KW on
10 meters that when I turned my KPA1500 ON, the background noise
on my K3S jumped up about three S-units according to the P3.
Just turning on the front panel main "ON" switch starts the
noise even though the operate switch is still in Standby.
Then when turning the amp back off the noise fades for about
1 or 2 seconds before it drops out completely.

The noise is certainly enough to completely cover any weaker
10-meter signal.  I checked for this happening on all other bands
and found no noise on any other bands.  The noise is certainly
enough to completely cover any weaker 10 meter signal.

I have been using the KPA1500 for several years, and this is
something totally new which just started.  Has anyone else
encountered this problem?  What are other operators' thoughts?

Charles Shaw - N5UL - 
Hobbs, NM


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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD LED command not working

[Charles Johnson via Elecraft]

Control of K-Pod LED 4 is not implemented on the K4 as yet, according to Wayne.

73, Charles, K4ZRJ
__

Sent from Apple Mail for macOS.






> On Nov 27, 2022, at 18:51, Mike Dodd  wrote:
> 
> I have a new K-POD connected to a K4D, and several macros assigned to 
> switchesF1-F8 operate correctly. Now I want to turn LED 4 on and off. The 
> K-POD user manual says:
> 
> "...LED 4 is always under user control. The following commands are used: 
> KPLED4ON; turns LED 4 on KPLED4OFF; turns led 4 off."
> 
> I assigned KPLED4ON; to a K-POD switch, but it does not turn on LED4. I later 
> assigned KPLED4ON; to a K4 function, and it too does not turn on LED4.
> 
> Does anyone know if KPLED4ON; is actually implemented in the K-POD?
> 
> --- Mike N4CF
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Noise Reduction

[Charles Hill]

Richard,

I saw this explanation of a procedure to adjust the NB from this reflector.  
I’ve tried it and it works.

Also see page 103 of “Getting the Most from Elecraft K3” by Fred Cody KE7X.

73,
Chuck K0MV

The approach I use for the Noise Blanker is this.

I first activate the NB and then the Level.   I start with the DSP OFF and the 
IF OFF.  I then adjust the DSP value for optimum results without it destroying 
the quality of the signal.  DO MAKE A NOTE OF THIS VALUE.  Then set the DSP 
back to OFF.  Then move to the IF and scroll through the settings in an effort 
to find optimum results.  Once this is done, leave the IF value as determined 
and return to the DSP and set it to the value previously determined.

This works for a given band and given type of noise.  Change bands or noise and 
do it all again.  There is no ONE setting correct for every condition.   Right 
now my 6M noise buzz is S-7 with the NB off.  Then turning it ON and adjusted 
as above the 6M noise is S-3.  That's 4 S units or 24 dB improvement.  I doubt 
you will get much better than this.

As to Noise Reduction, I find it best performs for CW mode. Again it takes 
careful adjustment to obtain optimum results.   I don't use NR for SSB signals. 
I prefer to adjust the Attenuation value and the RF Gain to produce optimum 
results when operating SSB.   I find optimum results occur when the no signal 
band noise is about 10 dB above the receiver noise floor.   In order to 
accomplish this operating point, one will need to use ATTENUATION and RF Gain 
reduction.   More gain won't aid in receiving weak signals, but just the 
opposite, as the signal will pop out of the noise.

I generally find using either NB or NR, but not both, is the better way to 
operate.  I doubt there is anything wrong with your radio.  Most likely the 
result is more related to receiver setting parameters.

73

Bob, K4TAX

> On Nov 6, 2022, at 18:33, Richard  wrote:
> 
> Is there ANY way to make the NR feature work worth a damn? In general, when I 
> turn it on, the audio level drops to almost nothing, and none of the 
> Adjustment setting do much of anything.
> 
> My other two radios, an old Icom and a new Icom, both have very effective NR 
> features.
> 
> Is this a design heartbreak, or is my radio looking at ANOTHER trip to the 
> factory?
> 
> Firmware # UC 05.67
> 
> Cheers.
> 
> Richard Kunc
> W4KBX
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[Elecraft] k pod repair

[hawley, charles j jr]

Here is a reply I received from Elecraft when I needed a switch. They did send 
me a couple as well.

"Thanks for contacting Elecraft. Apologies for the slow turn time.
The eight switches in a KPOD in question are Elecraft P/N E640062, described as 
" SWITCH,TACT,12mm,SMD".
Our distributor DigiKey calls them
EG4904TR-ND
 . "

​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K4

[hawley, charles j jr]

Is the 100 watt PA turned off in the menu?
Look at KPA4 PA Option and see...

​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 Fault:LPF VMON

[charles respess]

Thank you Chuck, Mark, Pete, Dick and others for the information.

Based on everyone's feedback I will submit a request to
supp...@elecraft.com for
next steps.  Definitely appears to be some kind of critical failure with
the LPF board regarding Transmit / Receive PIN Diodes and related control
voltages.  Unit is 4.5 years old and this is the only problem I have had
thankfully.

73, Charles - AC1FC

On Fri, Oct 21, 2022 at 11:04 AM Chuck Stover  wrote:

> I had one of those a year or so back.  It resulted in a trip to
> Watsonville for the KPA1500.
>
> Can't find the paperwork right now, but as I recall it was a failed PIN
> diode.
>
> 73,  Chuck K4QS
>
> On Friday, October 21, 2022 at 03:40:21 AM EDT, charles respess <
> charles.resp...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know how to troubleshoot KPA1500 Fault:LPF VMON?
>
> Amplifier powers up fine into standby mode, however any attempt to change
> into operate mode causes this hard fault condition 'Fault:LPF VMON'.  I
> searched archives but found no details on how to troubleshoot.
>
> Charles
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 Fault:LPF VMON

[charles respess]

Hello,

Does anyone know how to troubleshoot KPA1500 Fault:LPF VMON?

Amplifier powers up fine into standby mode, however any attempt to change
into operate mode causes this hard fault condition 'Fault:LPF VMON'.  I
searched archives but found no details on how to troubleshoot.

Charles
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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD LED 4 control

[Charles Johnson via Elecraft]

You’ll find a discussion about this in the Elecraft-K4 group at  groups.io 
<http://groups.io/> .

73, Charles, K4ZRJ
__

Sent from Apple Mail for macOS.






> On Oct 3, 2022, at 20:24, Mike Dodd  wrote:
> 
> The P-POD Owner's Manual says on page 11, that LED 4 is always under user 
> control, and KPLED4ON; turns LED 4 on.
> 
> On my K4 I assigned KPLED4ON; to K-pod.7T but pressing F7 on the K-POD does 
> not turn on LED 4.
> 
> Am I missing something, or does this macro not work?
> 
> --- Mike N4CF
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [EXT]: Stacking KPA on KAT

[Charles Hardt]

According to the KAT500 manual, the KAT is structurally sound to handle the 
weight of the KPA500 and the legs on the KPA500 give it enough clearance for 
air.  I think the rear of the KPA500 is more critical in terms of clearance for 
air.  I have the KPA500 & KAT500 and never set up the equipment with the KAT500 
on the bottom, so cannot speak to personal experience.

73,
Charlie, N2PKW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Paul Ecker
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2022 10:33 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [EXT]: [Elecraft] Stacking KPA on KAT

I am re-arranging the shack desk. Is anyone stacking the KPA500 on top of the 
KAT 500? Any weight or heat issues ? Or is it ok to do?

73 Paul w2eck
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[Elecraft] Pignology Remote kit for sale

[hawley, charles j jr]

New never used complete with printed color user manual Shipping included conus 
PayPal only $150 KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW

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Re: [Elecraft] Kanga R2pro &T2 kits

[hawley, charles j jr]

Here are two ideas...


Si5351A VFO/SigGen (qrp-labs.com)
Si5351A VFO/SigGen - QRP Labs
3-30MHz Low Distortion Sinewave Signal Generator. The Si5351A Synth in the 
VFO/SigGen kit produces a squarewave output. Starting in firmware version s1.03 
the processor can control the 6 relays in the 6-band Relay-switched LPF 
kit.This feature can be used to automatically select a LPF depending on the VFO 
operating frequency, to optimally remove the harmonics and leave only a nice 
high quality ...
www.qrp-labs.com
XG3_XG3 RF Signal Source – Elecraft
[http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2029/4979/products/XG3_550_1024x1024.jpg?v=1518590481]
XG3_XG3 RF Signal Source – Elecraft
Introduction The XG3 is a powerful programmable signal source that fits in the 
palm of your hand. It's a versatile tool that may be used for receiver testing, 
receiver alignment, RF signal tracing and troubleshooting and may even serve as 
a VFO or local oscillator or homebrew projects. Overview OVERVIEW The XG3 is a
elecraft.com


​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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[Elecraft] Remote Elecraft tranceivers

[Charles]

I am one of many amateurs who have been using the K3-K3/0 mini-Remote Rig 
setups.  Having moved around the country several times in the past few years I 
have maintained my station on a relative's farm for several years, and find 
that the above equipment works flawlessly on RTTY FSK, CW, and audio modes.   
If the K3 becomes unrepairable, will the K4 attain full remote capability, or 
will I and others have to look elsewhere?

Chuck, N8CL
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Re: [Elecraft] Heat Sink Compound Question

[Charles K0MV]

Hi Tony,

I posted this reply last November.

This topic appeared on the list previously from last October "sticky 
thermal pads for K3 LPA Mosfets".


One of my LPA Mosfets went bad in my K3s.  I saw a comment on the 
reflector about these devices failing and I'm guessing the heat sink 
design is subject to production variation.  I used to design switching 
power supplies.  Reliability is a very strong function of device 
temperature so keeping cool is important.  I hate to take time to fix 
stuff, so try to fix it so it never fails again.  I replaced both of 
them but also improved the thermal design.  As Ray WA6VAB mentioned, I 
got mine from RF Parts.


The epitome of outstanding thermal design is the Intel I7 processor heat 
sinking.  The processor and the heat sink are polished, shiny, and very 
flat.  The best thermal compound is a silver based paste included with 
the heat sink.  It does 100 watts over a couple of square inches so very 
low thermal resistance (remarkable!). Any gaps compromise the performance.


There is a very good tutorial on this here: 
https://forum.digikey.com/t/thermal-interface-materials


I examined the bottom cover and found the surface of the metal to be 
uneven and this inhibits heat transfer (raises the thermal resistance). 
I also found the bottom cover may not be perfectly flat. Moreover, the 
typical flexible thermal pads are not as good as alternatives.


I polished the K3s bottom cover where the heat sink attachments are with 
a Dremel tool and polishing pad and automotive rubbing compound, a fine 
abrasive.  You can see it becomes more shiny and I verified that with a 
microscope.


I got a larger diameter flat washer for placing under the screw head on 
the outside of the K3s.  This places compression over a larger area to 
help heat transfer.  Digikey part number H734-ND.


Since Elecraft has different board revisions you should check that the 
tabs of the MOSFETs can be grounded.  If so, then there is a type of 
thermal pad that is very good.  From the data sheet: High-PERFORMANCE, 
cost effective thermal interface material Used where electrical 
isolation is not required, Tgon TM 800 is ideal for where electrical 
contact and thermal transfer are desired. High thermal conductivity of 5 
W/mK in Z axis and 240 W/mK in the X-Y axis.  This type not only has low 
thermal resistance across it, but also a low thermal resistance in the 
plane of the pad helping to spread the heat out.  Digikey part number 
926-1471-ND manf part number A15037-112.  Use just a very small amount 
of the silver based thermal compound.


I run FT8 so the duty cycle is 50%.  It's been several months and no 
problems (1000s of QSOs)--at least yet!


Good luck and 73,

Chuck K0MV
On 3/29/22 15:24, Tony wrote:

All:

It seems that thermal compounds are not all the same and I was 
wondering which type is best to use for transceiver applications? I 
understand Elecraft uses thermal pads these days, but what type of 
compound was used prior to the switch?


Just purchased a produced called MX-5 from Arctic which is commonly 
used for CPU applications and was wondering if it can be used for HF 
transceivers, kits etc.


See: 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08T64M68V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1


Thanks,

Tony

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Charles K0MV
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[Elecraft] ELECRAFT HAT is now in stock...

[hawley, charles j jr]

I'm wondering if the newest hat has an adequate crown. I have three of them and 
the first one seems better than the second one. I gave that one to my wife and 
bought yet another. It's not so good either.
SO...I bought a Northern California DX Foundation hat which was suggested here 
and it's great. Half the price too, but that's not a deal breaker.
I still miss wearing the Elecraft hat...hoping that I'll meet someone at the 
coffee house who also has a K transceiver but is hatless and speaks out when 
they see mine.
Any reviews on the latest hat?

​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] De-soldering Tool Recommendations?

[charles respess]

I recently bought a HAKKO FR-301 this year.   This de-soldering iron was
very expensive at $269 but it worked flawlessly to remove over 100 through
hole relays - so it paid for itself quickly.  I only bought this DS iron
for a one-time project, but I can see why people love these things- they
work great as long as you use the cleaning procedure after EVERY use.  All
of my work nowadays is SMD so I use hot air station ST-862, which was about
$200 new and works great too.

You mentioned the need to work in tight places - not really sure what
'tight' means in terms of physical dimensions (mm / inches).  I do
recommend paying careful attention to nozzle dimensions when buying any
kind of de-soldering equipment.

The FR-301 comes with a standard sized nozzle (N61-08 1.0mm) which works
great for most generic work.  I suspect you might need a different nozzle,
perhaps a very long and thin nozzle such as N61-12, which costs about $18.
Nozzle outer diameter is 2.3mm with length of 11mm, more info in link below:

https://hakkousa.com/products/desoldering/n61-12-desoldering-nozzle-1-0-mm-extra-long.html

As far as low-temp Rosin core solder, I have never found a need for it.  My
go-to choice for solder that works great every time is Kester "48", which
has a melting point of 217°C.  The flux residue is minimal, almost
non-existent.  I rarely clean away the RA rosin afterwards unless the
solder joint is mission critical electrically.

Kester "48" RA Activated Rosin
Wire Diameter: 0.031” (0.8 mm)
Alloy: 96.5% Tin / 3% Silver / .5% Copper
Kester Part #:  83-7068-1402 ($5 USD for 0.4 oz pocket pack, or $50 USD for
1 pound spool)

Charles - AC1FC
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Re: [Elecraft] FW: KPA500 faults

[Charles K0MV]

Hi William,

"

surmise it was heating

"

Consider as the surface mount current sensing resistor (assuming it is 
surface mount)


is made to withstand solder reflow it seems unlikely to be heat. I've 
had many surface


mount resistors develop hair line cracks due to vibration and board 
flexing (in breadboards I built).


In failures I've seen due to heat, the resistor visibly changes color 
especially in markings, white to


brown.

As long as you have the unit opened up, perhaps you should take a lupe 
or magnifying glass, bright


flashlight and just look around for other cracks in components or solder 
joints.



I hope I can work you on 40M FT8, I need VP2E.


Good luck

Chuck K0MV


On 3/3/22 08:40, Dr. William J. Schmidt wrote:

Sorry guys, this is not a trivial line voltage problem.

The 60V line to the PA does not sag that much (starts at 72V goes to 60V
under FULL LOAD as measured at the PA)... it's in the voltage divider for
the 60V/32 line or the connectors that carry it to the front panel processor
for digitizing.  Changes with heat load.  This amp is in the Caribbean and
there is plenty of excess heat and corrosion. (nb. I just replaced the
current sensing resistor in my K3S for the 100W module due to a hair-line
crack... surmise it was heating).


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
VP2EHZ

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Naumann, Robert, W5OV
Sent: Thursday, March 3, 2022 9:11 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FW: KPA500 faults


What line voltage are you running it on?  If you're not on 240v, switching
to 240v would be the easiest and most effective improvement.

Doing so yields a 4:1 improvement in line voltage regulation / reduction in
voltage drop.  Double the voltage, at half the current draw.

73,

Bob W5OV

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dr. William J. Schmidt
Sent: Thursday, March 3, 2022 00:39
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500 faults

I have a KPA500 that faults on low (60 VDC) voltage.  After measuring the
power supply voltage at the PA module is perfectly fine.  The voltage read
by the processor on the front panel via pin 10 of P1 is lower than it should
be and hence the fault condition.  I suspect there is a voltage divider on
the LPF board that drops the 60 VDC to something that the processor can read
and digitize (in the 0 to 3-5 volt range).  The set of schematics I have do
not show the voltage divider anywhere. does anyone have this part of the
schematics for the KPA500 so that I can adequately troubleshoot this amp and
get it on the air for the contest this weekend?   Multiple notes to Elecraft
have gone unanswered.

  

  


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
VP2EHZ

  

  


email:   <mailto:b...@wjschmidt.com> b...@wjschmidt.com

  

  


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 drops out during voice peaks

[hawley, charles j jr]

No, it’s always been on manual since I got it. And it never used to do this. 
Nothing is changed in the shack except in using a 4:1 balun instead of a 1:1. 
The timing is similar.
Tomorrow I’ll reinstall that and see if it persists.
An arc outside is a thought too. I will check my open wire feed line as well.
Thanks for the replies.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
BMWMOA &RA #224
Chuck KE9UW 

Sent from my iPhone 

> On Feb 3, 2022, at 8:49 PM, Jack Brindle  wrote:
> 
> It sounds like you may have the KAT500 set for AUTO. Change it to MAN and it 
> should perform much better.
> 
> The rapid signal changes associated with SSB operation can cause issues with 
> the sampling of the power in the directional coupler,
> causing readings that make the KAT think it needs to do a tune. By using MAN 
> mode you get to decide when a tune is needed,
> making everyone much happier.
> 
> 73,
> Jack, W6FB
> 
> 
>> On Feb 3, 2022, at 6:20 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I've been having my tuner go to high swr a random voice peak.
>> The utility shows the right settings after a drop out but the Amp Key 
>> Interrupt box is checked.
>> And the swr showing on the LEDs is high.
>> Not sure what is going on.
>> I get it back to operating at low swr by doing a tune.
>> 
>> ​Chuck Hawley
>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>> 
>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
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[Elecraft] KAT500 drops out during voice peaks

[hawley, charles j jr]

I've been having my tuner go to high swr a random voice peak.
The utility shows the right settings after a drop out but the Amp Key Interrupt 
box is checked.
And the swr showing on the LEDs is high.
Not sure what is going on.
I get it back to operating at low swr by doing a tune.

​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] New wattmeter plans?

[Charles K0MV]

I came across this very interesting presentation that you may find 
informative:


https://www.hamradioworkbench.com/uploads/1/1/9/9/119903037/k6jey_wattmeter_talk.pdf

73,

Chuck K0MV


On 1/13/22 7:03 PM, jerry wrote:

On 2022-01-13 17:50, Josh Fiden wrote:

Bird is a classic, I keep one on out of my 6m amp. But they’re not
cheap. Comparing cost and features with an LP100A not a hard choice
IMHO.


*** Room for both.  I have a Bird 4410a.  Multiple ranges -
can measure from QRP up to 10kW.  An Ebay deal.  Don't know
how well it's calibrated, and it doesn't do peak power.

  So I just ordered an LP100A.  With the work I've been doing with 
linear amplifiers, I am very interested in accurate power readings.


 - Jerry KF6VB







73,
Josh W6XU

Sent from my iPad


On Jan 13, 2022, at 5:19 PM, Bob McGraw  wrote:

Why not just buy a nice clean Bird 43P and a new element or two. 
Not hamfest elements.   That works for me and gives total confidence 
on what I see as power output.   Of course if one desires all 
equipment to match, then so be it.




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 Power Supply

[Charles K0MV]

Mine is powered all the time, but the RF deck is not.


On 1/3/22 9:30 AM, Larry Boekeloo wrote:

Do most of you leave your KPA-1500 Power Supply powered up all the time
even with the RF Deck off?

Thanks.

Larry, KN8N
Kalamazoo, Michigan
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Re: [Elecraft] FOR SALE: Elecraft K3/100 160-6m Transceiver — KAT3 ATU—KPA100 Amplifier—XRX3 Subreceiver

[Charles Tropp]

The K3 has been sold. Thanks for your interest.

On Mon, Dec 20, 2021 at 6:05 AM Charles Tropp 
wrote:

> Elecraft K3/100 160-6m Transceiver Serial #2502 with the standard 2.7 kHz
> filter, the KAT3 Internal Auto Antenna Tuner, KPA100W Amplifier and XRX3
> Subreceiver.  The subreceiver is identical to the main receiver and has its
> own 400Hz filter. It can tune the same range of frequencies as the main
> receiver and is terrific at busting DX pileups.
>
>- This K3 also comes with lots of extras including:
>- Three (3) additional CW Filters: 700Hz, 400Hz and 250Hz for the
>utmost in selectivity.
>- KXV3A Interface Option which provides a separate receive antenna
>input and output, an input and output for use with an external transverter,
>and a buffered i.f. output. (Handy for adding an external Panadapter or
>SDR).
>- The K3 has been upgraded with the KSYN3A synthesizers in both the
>Main and Subreceiver. The synthesizer produces cleaner synthesized signals
>leading to better transmitter and receiver performance and has a better
>switch time to improve TX/RX switching for high speed CW.
>- There is no internal sound card in this K3, but included in this
>bundle is the TigerTronics Signal Link USB interface which adds an external
>sound card and comes with the Elecraft connection cable and complete
>documentation. Just what you need to work the new digital modes such as 
> FT8.
>- You can connect a PC that has a serial port to download firmware and
>software upgrades as well as to allow computer control of the K3 with your
>favorite contest and general loggers. No serial port? No problem—I include
>the original Elecraft KUSB Universal Serial Bus Adapter cable which allows
>you to simply plug the K3 into an available USB port.
>- This K3 was upgraded, calibrated and aligned by the Elecraft Factory
>in 2015 to meet or exceed all factory specifications.
>- The installation and operation manuals are included as well as all
>upgrade and repair documentation.
>- This unit is sold *AS IS *and subject to the following *caveat* which
>may or may not be of concern to you: I am unable to get my Begali Single
>Lever Paddle to work properly with the Elecraft Internal Keyer. I can only
>send dits or dahs (depending on the menu option) but not both. In other
>words one side of the paddle does not work. There may be a problem with the
>paddle jack connection. I have always preferred to use either a straight
>key or my external Winkeyer USB as it performs well with the software
>programs that I use and it plugs directly into the Key Jack which works
>fine.
>
>
> I am asking $1,695 for this package + Shipping via Priority US Mail to
> CONUS.
>
>
> --
> *73, Charles N2SO*
>
>


-- 
*73, Charles N2SO*
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE: Elecraft K3/100 160-6m Transceiver — KAT3 ATU—KPA100 Amplifier—XRX3 Subreceiver

[Charles Tropp]

Elecraft K3/100 160-6m Transceiver Serial #2502 with the standard 2.7 kHz
filter, the KAT3 Internal Auto Antenna Tuner, KPA100W Amplifier and XRX3
Subreceiver.  The subreceiver is identical to the main receiver and has its
own 400Hz filter. It can tune the same range of frequencies as the main
receiver and is terrific at busting DX pileups.

   - This K3 also comes with lots of extras including:
   - Three (3) additional CW Filters: 700Hz, 400Hz and 250Hz for the utmost
   in selectivity.
   - KXV3A Interface Option which provides a separate receive antenna input
   and output, an input and output for use with an external transverter, and a
   buffered i.f. output. (Handy for adding an external Panadapter or SDR).
   - The K3 has been upgraded with the KSYN3A synthesizers in both the Main
   and Subreceiver. The synthesizer produces cleaner synthesized signals
   leading to better transmitter and receiver performance and has a better
   switch time to improve TX/RX switching for high speed CW.
   - There is no internal sound card in this K3, but included in this
   bundle is the TigerTronics Signal Link USB interface which adds an external
   sound card and comes with the Elecraft connection cable and complete
   documentation. Just what you need to work the new digital modes such as FT8.
   - You can connect a PC that has a serial port to download firmware and
   software upgrades as well as to allow computer control of the K3 with your
   favorite contest and general loggers. No serial port? No problem—I include
   the original Elecraft KUSB Universal Serial Bus Adapter cable which allows
   you to simply plug the K3 into an available USB port.
   - This K3 was upgraded, calibrated and aligned by the Elecraft Factory
   in 2015 to meet or exceed all factory specifications.
   - The installation and operation manuals are included as well as all
   upgrade and repair documentation.
   - This unit is sold *AS IS *and subject to the following *caveat* which
   may or may not be of concern to you: I am unable to get my Begali Single
   Lever Paddle to work properly with the Elecraft Internal Keyer. I can only
   send dits or dahs (depending on the menu option) but not both. In other
   words one side of the paddle does not work. There may be a problem with the
   paddle jack connection. I have always preferred to use either a straight
   key or my external Winkeyer USB as it performs well with the software
   programs that I use and it plugs directly into the Key Jack which works
   fine.


I am asking $1,695 for this package + Shipping via Priority US Mail to
CONUS.


-- 
*73, Charles N2SO*
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Baseball Cap Not Great

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have gotten three of these. The first one fits and feels great…made in 
Bangladesh. 
The second one, too small…not enough crown and easily blows off my head in a 
mild breeze…made in China. 
The third one I bought hoping that the second one was an anomaly…but still 
shallow crown…made in China.
I really like the first hat, but my wife says I look homeless because it’s 
badly faded, etc.
I see that the hat now costs $5 more…kind of a lot to take another chance.
I gave the short crown hats to my wife.
Rats.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] FOR SALE P3/SVGA & TX MONITOR

[Charles Tropp]

Now surplus to my needs. Excellent condition with all cables and manuals.
Asking $1,095 + shipping from NY.

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Re: [Elecraft] Problem Tuning K3: now off centre fed dipole

[Charles K0MV]

Hi David,

Thanks for the synopsis below.  I found it very useful being unfamiliar 
with amateur practice over the years with OCF antennas.  My antennas are 
all center fed.


I replied to this message because it was the most informative. Other, 
later messages on this thread were also interesting.  But generally, the 
discussion lacks quantitative data and so it is difficult to objectively 
evaluate the efficacy and drawbacks of different realizations.  It is 
also difficult to project which realization or changes would fit a given 
set of constraints.


The positive aspect is there has been years and years of experimentation 
and different approaches to this multiband dipole problem.  I would like 
to hear more on these.


Could you describe G3TXQ's 2 core Guanella balun solution more 
completely?  I checked the Spiderbeam website and it is not clear to me.


I think this is relevant to Elecraft since many applications are 
portable and QRP.  We want that antenna to really work and understanding 
it better, helps.


73,

Chuck K0MV


On 11/4/21 9:59 AM, CUTTER DAVID via Elecraft wrote:

Hi Dan

Good question.  I'll answer as a non-expert as best I can.

This is essentially a quest for a multi-band dipole that is easy to make and 
use.  If you can put up mono band dipoles and beams for all your bands, you 
probably will not bother going this route.

The popular description of the ocf dipole (going back at least to the 50's) has 
a feed point of one third/two thirds on the dipole.  (BTW this is otherwise a 
normal half wavelength dipole.

This provides approximately 200 ohm feed point impedance for most popular HF 
bands, eg 80, 40, 20 and 10m, not 15m.

Back in the 60's we could use coax into a valve PA, which I preferred to the 
G5RV which needed an outboard matching unit.  In transistor days we used a 
modest matching unit with an swr meter and were ignorant of common mode current.
  
In the 90s I used ladder line to ground level and an auto-tuning unit into a tent for field day, believing it to be more efficient.   With grounded coax I didn't have live chassis syndrome and out in the wilds there was no noise pickup.  Later I used ladder line through a balun then into the radio with an on-board matching unit and that was, for me a great step forward with auto-tuning.



It was discovered by some users that the common mode current performance using 
off-the-shelf baluns and chokes was inadequate and could result in live chassis 
syndrome and noise pickup on receive from home locations.  Poor matching on 15m 
was still a problem as were the WARC bands.

Now in the 21st Century, just a few years ago, Rick DJ0IP tackled the problem 
starting with a 40m ocf dipole using a new balun/choke combination.  He read 
that W8JI and others recommended a 20% feedpoint to bring 15m into the 200 ohm 
region. He then used a Guanella 2-core balun solution from Steve G3TXQ and 
others to provide the 50 ohm output with low common mode current.  It had to be 
the dual core version, the single core version simply didn't suppress the cmc.  
This is now marketed by Spiderbeam.  Moving to an 80m version was difficult but 
with a hybrid balun/choke combination he devised a combination that provided at 
least as good cmc and this version is also marketed by Spiderbeam. They both 
work on 15m and some WARC bands. For some layouts a modest on-board matching 
unit is required for complete coverage which is a far cry from bulky outboard 
units; good news for portable operation.

I would call these *modern* off centre-fed dipoles, ie well into this century.

I have no financial connection with anyone in that business and I will say that 
I have never seen anyone else produce such a large amount of compelling 
evidence as Rick and I recommend his web site for all things balun and choke 
related to this task.  He takes the practical, non-laboratory approach.  This 
in no way conflicts with any work done by Jim, K9YC and I only wish that he 
would make his own measurements on these modern devices and let go the old 
prejudice.

73 David G3UNA
   
  






On 04 November 2021 at 05:24 Dan Presley  wrote:


Perhaps you could clarify what you meant by a modern OCF. What’s changed from 
the traditional model? Thanks.

Dan Presley 503-701-3871
danpresley@me. com
n7...@arrl.net


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--
Charles K0MV
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Pleas

Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S Options and Upgrades

[Charles Hardt]

Wayne and Eric have on numerous occasions stated in this forum that they will 
continue to support the K3/K3S in terms of maintenance.  Now, one has to be 
realistic in expectations.  To have replacement cards made for replacements or 
upgrades, manufactured in small numbers will become prohibitively expensive.  
Elecraft does not manufacture their own boards.  Once their stock is depleted, 
cards obviously will be come unavailable.   Wayne has stated in this forum that 
his repairs will go to component level, when cards are gone from stock.  So now 
component availability will be the driving issue.  I believe the K3/K3S has 
been in production for over 15 years and I am sure they have dealt with 
component obsolescence in the past, but know we cannot expect an engineering 
team to do redesign work for an out of production radio.  Replacement 
processor's, memory, ADCs, etc, could be a problem as component obsolesce kicks 
in.  I too have a K3, that I want to move from my home station to
  support my portable work and replace it with a K4 (When the kit version comes 
out).  In my opinion based on Elecraft's past performance and statements made 
by Wayne and Eric, loss of maintenance support for the K3/K3S will be due to 
parts obsolesce and not Elecraft lack of support.  I too look for years of 
usage out of my K3.

73,
Charlie, N2PKW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Thomas Donohue
Sent: Monday, August 02, 2021 8:26 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/K3S Options and Upgrades

[You don't often get email from tomdo...@gmail.com. Learn why this is important 
at http://aka.ms/LearnAboutSenderIdentification.]

Given the termination of options and upgrades, I'm concerned that the same 
thing will happen to K3/K3S service and repair. There are a lot of us here in 
customer land that will need that capability well into the future, therefore 
it's loss or diminishment would adversely affect lots of folks.  I attempted to 
post this item on the K4 reflector and it was denied in part because it was off 
topic; however, it seems to me  that the increasing attention being paid to the 
K4, has resulted in less attention going to the K3/K3S. So, I would like to 
know how some of you out there feel about that?

Best 73,
Tom/W1QU
Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

[hawley, charles j jr]

I don't see a picture of your plug. Looking into the 6-20P  240 vac/ 20 amp 
plug with the ground pin up, it should have a vertical blade on the left and a 
horizontal blade on the right. Is that what your amp came with?

The 120 vac/20 amp plug, NEMA 5-20P,  has the blades reversed...horizontal 
blade on the left and vertical on the right. Is that what your plug is, or is 
the electrician just confused?




​Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO3B upgrade

[Charles Hardt]

I have the upgrade on my K3.  Single USB cable that creates two virtual ports.  
One for rig control and the other K3 sound card.  I am talking about a Windows 
10 installation and operation.  I have done it in Linux on Raspberry Pi, but 
had to watch a lot of YouTube videos to adjust audio via a Pi Terminal screen.  
I find windows a lot easier.  In Windows you need to go in and find your serial 
port for both audio and rig control, just like you did with your Signal Link 
for rig control (I use a Signal Link with my KX3 and earlier with my K3 before 
upgrade).  Then to adjust audio go into Windows "Setup", "Audio Devices" and 
adjust your audio output (Typically speaker audio level) from your computer to 
K3.  Setup K3 to adjust your modulation level just like you did with the Signal 
Link.  Typically levels are lower than the radio's microphone.  Then adjust the 
audio in Windows, "Setup", "Audio Devices" as you did on the Signal Link.  For 
audio from the K3 to the computer just incr
 ease audio (typically computer microphone audio level) until your computer 
program begins to react to the sound.   Not sure what computer program you are 
using, but make sure you have selected the K3 USD sound card, typically called 
"USB audio codec" in your computer program.  Otherwise the computer program may 
default to your computer sound card (Not Good!).  I find windows adjustments 
very easy and can do it on the fly.  I work NBEMS HF & VHF and that requires 
audio readjust going from HF to VHF and back.  Getting rid of the required rats 
nest of wires with the Signal Link was worth it.  I was banking on your 
experience with the Signal link, so did not go into a lot of intimate details.  
So if more details are needed don't hesitate to get back to me. I really like 
the USB K3 interface with Windows and I am sure a lot on this list will 
disagree with me.  I have no experience in the Apple/Mac.

Good Luck,
73,
Charlie, N2PKW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jim Leder
Sent: Tuesday, June 1, 2021 6:39 AM
To: Elecraft 
Subject: [Elecraft] KIO3B upgrade 

I have an older K3 and have been using a USB Signalink for digital. The audio 
levels are easy to control with the TX and RX pots on the Signalink. With the 
KIO3B installed, putting the soundcard inside the K3, how are those levels 
controlled? I ordered the upgrade kit, but need to know about this before 
finishing it up.
The Signalink has been easy to control and very reliable. Will the KIO3B 
upgrade be as easy to operate?

Jim Leder ... K8CXM

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy Load with integral digital wattmeter

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have one. I like it, but I was thinking more of a test unit.
Dummy load with integral digital meter (digits preferred instead of LEDs)..
To make one out of a W2 would require a W2, that after market KV5J digital 
readout or a computer, and the directional coupler. Lots of stuff and wires.
But maybe if I found a stand alone digital wattmeter I could fasten it to a 
dummy load...that's a thought.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Jack Brindle 
Sent: Friday, April 30, 2021 3:50 PM
To: hawley, charles j jr 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Dummy Load with integral digital wattmeter

Have you looked at the Elecraft W2?

https://elecraft.com/products/w2<https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://elecraft.com/products/w2__;!!DZ3fjg!qXURJbbL1PqkaGaQGRUvMoMfFuds4479KRvkzFwZGcm4UK5lJ0eexSbFJ813fvOTsn32$>

73!
Jack, W6FB


On Apr 30, 2021, at 1:38 PM, ke9uw 
mailto:c-haw...@illinois.edu>> wrote:

I have recently built a GRPoMeter which has a 16 Watt dummy load with a
digital SWR/Wattmeter in it. It’s great...but only reads up to about 14
Watts.
I would like a similar dummy load meter with a digital meter that reads say
0-10, 0-100, and 0-1000 watts full scale. I like and use the Elecraft 500
watt amp and tuner, so 1000 watts full scale would be perfect..
Too much to ask for. 0-2000 would be acceptable if it had the 3 ranges.
Definitely not  single range analog meters like MFJ and Palstar have
Anyone know of a product like this?

Chuck KE9UW



-
Chuck, KE9UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Are external tuners really needed with Chamaeleon antennas?

[Charles Hardt]

Jeff,
I operated Winter Field Day, with my KX3 (Same basic internal tuner as yours) 
at a camp ground down along the Gulf Coast with my club.  I operated with a 
Chameleon 80 meter End Fed Half Wave, working mostly 40 and 20 meters.  The 
antenna was tossed up into a group of pine trees and other green foliage in 
true amateur fashion, severely detuning the antenna.  My KX3 internal antenna 
tuner had no problem tuning.  Elecraft tuners are wide range tuners, typically 
10 to 1.  (Wayne, N6KR, please forgive me for this).  And Wayne, N6KR; 
Co-founder of Elecraft, has written in this very mailing list that he can tune 
Lightly Salted Snow with his KX2!  Jeff you will have no problems with your 
KX2.  Hope to catch you on the air with your KX2/MPAS Lite!

73,
Charlie, N2PKW

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Jeff Grillo
Sent: Monday, March 22, 2021 10:25 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [EXT]: [Elecraft] Are external tuners really needed with Chamaeleon 
antennas?

I am considering purchasing a Chamaeleon MPAS Lite and from what I gather from 
advertisements they require an external wide range antenna tuner to work. I 
have a kx2 with the internal tuner. I am guessing there is something beyond my 
paygrade as to why this would not be sufficient? If anyone has direct 
experience with these antennas please let me know your experience and what you 
think. Also… I am interested in this particular antenna because I am visually 
impaired and it seems like something I could set up myself relatively easily. 
Thanks! 73 KO4NE 

Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] Why is my K3 off frequency?

[Charles Tropp]

Hi,
Last night my local ham club scheduled their first ever 6Meter Net and
Roundtable for 50.135Mz. I operate USB very rarely, preferring CW for all
of my Contesting and DX work. Last night the net control station advised me
that I was 12Hz too high and that he had to use his RIT control to tune to
me. When I turned on my XIT and transmitted down 12Hz I was right on his
frequency. This was confirmed by other callers as well. I have also heard
this problem mentioned in the past when checking into occasional 75M nets.
Is there an adjustment that I can or should make aside from using my XIT?

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

-- 
*73, Charles N2SO*
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft contact- K3 power problem

[Charles Hardt]

Dummy Load, right?  Sorry if redundant.

Good Luck!
73
Charlie, N2PKW



Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S®4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: Gordon LaPoint 
Date: 03/17/2021 2:15 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [EXT]: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft contact- K3 power problem

Frank,
 Yes, I get 13.9 on the radio readout no key, and 13.8 full power
FSK (only 60-70 watts now). 10gauge wire only 1.5ft long.
Thanks,
Gordon - N1MGO

On 3/17/2021 9:22 AM, donov...@erols.com wrote:
> Gordon,
>
> Have you verified that your power supply and DC power cable
> are delivering full voltage to your K3 when the K3 is set to deliver
> 110 watts output?   This is a frequent cause of low power output.
> Use the K3 internal voltmeter
>
> 73
> Frank
> W3LPl
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
>  On Behalf Of Gordon LaPoint
> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2021 3:53 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft contact
>
> I have a problem with my K3, only 60-70 watts out, even after
> calibration on 5 and 50 watts.  This is the first time I have had a
> problem with the K3, after years of good operation.I emailed
> support over a week ago and called them on the phone  last week, still
> have not heard anything.  What is the correct email for support??
> Thanks,
> Gordon - N1MGO  K3 #5651
>
>
> On 3/16/2021 15:33 PM, Paul Van Dyke wrote:
> > Lisa Jones retired 2+ years ago from Elecraft..
> > She and Madelyn Gomez (made...@elecraft.com) were a team Madelyn Gomez
> > ... made...@elecraft.com and her team can help you today..
> >
> > BUT go thru Support or Tech support 1st !!
> >   as they take the load off the team and it works so much faster
> >
> > Paul Van Dyke - KB9AVO
> >
> > On Tue, Mar 16, 2021 at 3:22 PM Bob G3PJT  wrote:
> >
> >> David isnt this for you not me?
> >>
> >> 73 Bob
> >>
> >> On 16/03/2021 15:27, W2xj wrote:
> >>> Context?
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPad
> >>>
>  On Mar 16, 2021, at 9:59 AM, Bob G3PJT  wrote:
> 
>  
>  David
> 
>  Try Lisa  Jones, her email is sa...@elecraft.com and the other one
>  is
> >> pa...@elecraft.com
>  And the mod page which I found useful is
> 
>  https://la3za.blogspot.com/search/label/K2
> 
>  73 Bob
>  __
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>
>
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Please help su

[Elecraft] K2 REVISED LCD and BACKLIGHT ASSEMBLY

[hawley, charles j jr]

I see there is a new backlight for the K2. I wonder why, and is this better 
than the original back in 2000. How difficult iis it to replace in a finished 
K2?


Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW

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[Elecraft] K2 upgrade notes not found on Elecraft site...

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’m not finding the several firmware upgrade notes. I see where you can buy the 
new firmware chip, but not finding why you would want to.
I have noticed that the Elecraft site somehow has info, but sometimes it is 
difficult to find it...or it’s no longer there. Don’t like to see the latter.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

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[Elecraft] My THIRD Elecraft Hat

[hawley, charles j jr]

I just received my third Elecraft hat. It fits perfectly...just like my first 
Elecraft hat. When I got the second hat, it didn’t seem to fit properly. Kind 
of seemed short of coming all the way down on my head. I compared it to the 
first hat and it seemed the same, but just didn’t fit right. Didn’t come down 
all the way and feel secure.
This third hat is great.
So if you get a funny hat after you order another hat because of kinda wearing 
out your first hat...my wife was gonna burn my first faded and sweat lined 
hat...said I looked homeless in it...just keep ordering them until you get a 
good one.
I’m so psyched...I may just order a K4 now...a third rig...to set next to the 
K3es.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

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Re: [Elecraft] Automatic lightning protection for radios, an off the wall idea

[Charles Hardt]

I would not want a high static discharges such as a lightning near miss in my 
K4 or any radio I have.  Nor would I want it in my house.  I am thinking of 
antennas discharge.

IMHO, 
& 73,
Charlie, N2PKW 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Bill Frantz
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 9:34 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [EXT]: [Elecraft] Automatic lightning protection for radios, an off 
the wall idea

I've been thinking about some kind of automatic lightning protection for 
radios, specifically ones like the K3 and K4. The idea is that when you turn 
the radio off, all the things that are subject to damage are protected by 
disconnecting them from the external world and shorting their inputs to ground.

This approach probably wouldn't protect against a direct hit to one of the 
wires coming into the radio, which are most likely on the antenna input and the 
power from a solar system. But I understand that the most significant part of 
the problem is voltage spikes introduced when the external wires act as 
antennas and pick up nearby lightning strikes.

I'm not a hardware engineer, so I'm going to assume that relays are used in 
this device. Some of the things I see this device doing are:

USB connection: Elecraft tells us that blown USB chips are one of the more 
common forms of lightning damage in the K3. There are 4 wires in the USB 
interface, two of which carry power from the external world. The relay(s) would 
float the USB wires and ground the connections to the internal USB chip. Since 
power from the external world is present when the radio is off, we can't ground 
the power leads, although we can ground the power input to the radio's USB chip.

Note that currently a computer attached to the K3 can see its USB chip, even 
when the radio is turned off. This change would mean that the computer would no 
longer see the radio over USB, which might have annoying software effects.

A similar thing could happen to the antenna inputs.

Key/Paddle, microphone, headphones, RS232, etc. would be treated the same way.

The AUXbus would be treated similarly, but anything that can be turned on via 
the AUXbus would need special handling.

The 12V power input is needed to turn the radio on with the power button. I 
don't know how often radios are damaged through their 12V power input. This 
input may not need protection. 
Otherwise, the relay that protects power and the switch to the radio could be 
the only things powered when the radio is off. If it can't be protected, it 
could be made easily field replaceable.

It would be neat if there's enough room inside a K4 to put this kind of 
protection "under the covers".

73 Bill AE6JV

---
Bill Frantz| The race is not always to the swift, nor 
the |
(408)348-7900  | battle to the strong, but that's the way to 
bet. |
www.pwpconsult.com |   - Damon 
Runyon |

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Re: [Elecraft] K4 specs

[hawley, charles j jr]

Ahh...

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Grant Youngman 
Sent: Monday, January 18, 2021 8:29 AM
To: hawley, charles j jr 
Cc: Elecraft Refl 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 specs

Wayne said they’d get it posted this morning.  It’s only 6:30am in CA.  GIve 
‘em some time for a final read through, and to put it up :-)

Grant NQ5T

> On Jan 18, 2021, at 9:26 AM, ke9uw  wrote:
>
> Page 40 is blank. Says (In Progress)
>
>
>
> -
> Chuck, KE9UW
> --
> Sent from: 
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/__;!!DZ3fjg!vWXMwCkkhlBe4pHd0xIKIQJFQhGjnbCVHRdqpXkz6AvVNNWK62nLxvYQLywqpvF7DX1o$

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Fldigi - macMini

[Charles Hardt]

As a follow up to my last email, I have successfully interfaced my K3 with 
upgraded USB, my KX3, and a portable which will go unnamed rig to the Raspberry 
Pi 4B.  These rigs are set up as go kits for emergency comms.  I live on the 
Gulf Coast.  I did have problems and used the NBEMS videos to complete my 
configuration setups.  The software in my humble opinion is not user friendly.  
 Again good luck and let me know how you make out.  73, Charlie, N2PKW



Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S®4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: w...@flashdog.us
Date: 12/28/2020 9:04 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [EXT]: [Elecraft] K3S - Fldigi - macMini

Greetings Everyone & HNY,

I am having problems setting up Fldigi with a new macMini & my K3S. I receives 
signals, but I cannot transmit. I have no problems using WSJT-X.
Any help, on or off list, would be most appreciated.

73,
Jeff/wb0m
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Fldigi - macMini

[Charles Hardt]

Are you using FLRIG or HAMLIB for rig control?  I and from what I understand 
others have problems with FLRIG.  But quite different from your problem, FLRIG 
continuously sets transmit on my KX3.  I suggest you try HAMLIB for rig 
control.  I know it is not as full featured as FLRIG, but appears to be a lot 
more stable.  Yes I know there is a lot of difference in the interface between 
the KX3 and your K3s.  I use a signalink for my audio CODEC and your K3s has it 
built in.  If you are receiving audio then you probably have FLDIGI pointed to 
the proper sound CODEC. As long as you have selected both for transmit and 
recieve.  Make sure your rig control software in FLDIGI is set up properly to 
control PTT.  I might suggest reviewing NBEMS videos on youtube.  They go 
through in depth detail for setup.  I am on my phone, I will later send you the 
URL for YouTube videos, when I get on my computer.  The setup can be a little 
overwhelming.   I use the videos as I go through every setup.  Not to say I 
don't have setup problems,  but those videos have solved all my problems.  Good 
Luck and let me know how it works out.  73, Charlie, N2PKW



Sent via the Samsung GALAXY S®4, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone


 Original message 
From: w...@flashdog.us
Date: 12/28/2020 9:04 PM (GMT-06:00)
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [EXT]: [Elecraft] K3S - Fldigi - macMini

Greetings Everyone & HNY,

I am having problems setting up Fldigi with a new macMini & my K3S. I receives 
signals, but I cannot transmit. I have no problems using WSJT-X.
Any help, on or off list, would be most appreciated.

73,
Jeff/wb0m
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Set Mode Across All Bands?

[Charles]

OK - thanks! 

Bret




-Original Message-

From: donw...@embarqmail.com
To: cbjesse...@comcast.net, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 2020-12-28 11:49:24 AM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S - Set Mode Across All Bands?

Bret,

No way that I know of, Mode is a per band setting.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/27/2020 1:17 PM, MaverickNH wrote:
> If I want to apply CW Mode and configuration settings across all bands,
> rather than each band individually, is there a way to do that?
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[Elecraft] K Pod switch replacement or fix?

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’ve been wondering as I contemplate replacing at least two of the push button 
switches, if there is a more permanent fix.
The schematic is available on the Elecraft website.
What do you think of installing say a 10K pull-up resistor from the 3 vdc buss 
to each of the switch outputs. I wonder if that would stabilize the inputs. It 
seems like the issue is no-current switching making the contact noisy after 
repeated use. 10 K doesn’t seem like much of a current to help, but that and 
maybe the presence of a load would reduce the noise to the pic processor. 

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

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[Elecraft] Keyboard plugged into the P3 SVGA works but...

[hawley, charles j jr]

I asked the question how do you type live and send CW, and got the answer about 
the Menu set to VOX.
That works now but it doesn't work in SSB to automatically offset and send out 
CW like with paddles plugged into the K3.
Is this not possible with the keyboard and SVGA?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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[Elecraft] KEYBOARD Plugged into P3 SVGA...can't type out live.

[hawley, charles j jr]

I can type into the transmit buffer and with ctrl T, transmit the CW. But with 
the VOX turned on in the K3s, the typing doesn't go out as I type, but fills up 
the buffer. I still have to hit ctrl T to transmit.
Am I missing something that needs to be turned on or off?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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[Elecraft] P3 Transmit Display Failure

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have a reoccurring issue with the P3 display of the transmit cw display. 
Occasionally, the P3 doesn't display the TX waveform ( I have never noticed if 
this happening on SSB...probably not since I have never had to fix it). The fix 
is loading a config file stored when the problem was not happening.
I have tried to store a config file when it was happening just to see and then 
restore using that file. What happens then is the P3 display locked up with a 
dit and could not be unlocked.
After this test, I had to turn off the K3s and unpower the P3, restore power 
and turn the K3s on, and restore with a copy of the config which was taken when 
the display was showing transmit cw.
I'm thinking stray RF somehow causing this but never happened on SSB...and I 
have no clue what is getting flipped in the rig or P3 to have this happen.
Since I can restore the config and fix it, I guess I'm mostly curious why it's 
happening, any ideas?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD Button Switches Intermittently triggering the wrong macro

[hawley, charles j jr]

The switches are surface mount and quite sealed. The surface mount on them is 
not a problem the way they are soldered in. But ultimately, it seems like 
Elecraft needs to replace them as to brand, model, in their production if they 
haven’t already done so. 
When I called for replacing pod number 2, I was told that this was extremely 
rare and even not likely for someone to have two of them go this way. But with 
a little persistence they sent me my third one. I think they are getting old in 
the tooth now, so we should see more “rare” failures ahead. As of right now, 
replacing the pc board for $120 is probably the way to go, with the hope that 
the switches are a more reliable sort.
I, so far, went the way of just switching my most used macros to relatively 
unused switches. Good for another almost year I hope.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 6, 2020, at 4:32 PM, Ken  wrote:
> 
> I have had this problem for years also and wonder if there is any way to 
> clean the switches?  It is a real spoiler when it pulls this stunt, seemingly 
> always when chasing some great dx.  Would love to know what really is going 
> on with this along with a good “fix”. 
> 
> Ken, NU4I 
> 
> Sent from my iPod
> 
>> On Nov 6, 2020, at 14:20, Steve Lund  wrote:
>> 
>> Let me know your solution as my KPOD has the same problem.
>> 
>> The buttons on the K3 always work as expected, but the KPOD buttons don't.
>> A real pain in cw pileups.
>> 
>> Steve, K6UM
>> 
>>> On Fri, Nov 6, 2020 at 3:55 PM hawley, charles j jr 
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I posted this on Elecraft .io but will try here as well...
>>> 
>>> I love this K-Pod, BUT I’ve sort of worn out 3 of them. The symptom is
>>> that the most used buttons get noisy and trigger another macro from another
>>> address. When I had the first one do that, I did extensive testing to
>>> eliminate rf noise, etc.
>>> And a new unit however proved to work perfectly...for about 4 months. When
>>> it started doing the same thing Elecraft said it was highly unlikely and
>>> especially twice to the same guy, but they sent me another one anyway.
>>> Great company!
>>> Now that one after a year is doing it again. I rearranged the macros to
>>> different buttons of the two macros I mostly use, and it works flawlessly
>>> again for me. I doubt that Elecraft will keep sending me these things, but
>>> maybe I’m missing something. But all I can come up with is noisy switches,
>>> double triggering. No switch bounce protection?
>>> I notice now on the Elecraft site that there are PC boards available for
>>> about $120. Almost doable if the switches are not available separately, and
>>> less expensive than the $290 for a new unit.
>>> Has anyone come up with a part # for the original switches?
>>> Elecraft...?
>>> 
>>> Chuck Hawley
>>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>>> 
>>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>>> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>>> __
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>>> Message delivered to k6um.el...@gmail.com
>>> 
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> 
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[Elecraft] K-POD Button Switches Intermittently triggering the wrong macro

[hawley, charles j jr]

I posted this on Elecraft .io but will try here as well...

I love this K-Pod, BUT I’ve sort of worn out 3 of them. The symptom is that the 
most used buttons get noisy and trigger another macro from another address. 
When I had the first one do that, I did extensive testing to eliminate rf 
noise, etc.
And a new unit however proved to work perfectly...for about 4 months. When it 
started doing the same thing Elecraft said it was highly unlikely and 
especially twice to the same guy, but they sent me another one anyway. Great 
company!
Now that one after a year is doing it again. I rearranged the macros to 
different buttons of the two macros I mostly use, and it works flawlessly again 
for me. I doubt that Elecraft will keep sending me these things, but maybe I’m 
missing something. But all I can come up with is noisy switches, double 
triggering. No switch bounce protection?
I notice now on the Elecraft site that there are PC boards available for about 
$120. Almost doable if the switches are not available separately, and less 
expensive than the $290 for a new unit.
Has anyone come up with a part # for the original switches?
Elecraft...?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] Newer Elecraft hat not as good as the earlier ones...

[hawley, charles j jr]

Well the newer had just doesn't sit on my head as well as the older one. In a 
light wind, it tends to take off. I adjusted the band in the back, etc. and the 
only thing I can come up with is the hat is not as preformed as the old had 
was. So I thought it must be that the material is thinner or something. Even 
though they are the same brand and look identical inside, they are made in 
different countries. So they are different.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Tommy 
Sent: Thursday, November 5, 2020 9:02 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Newer Elecraft hat not as good as the earlier ones...

Funny you mention this Chuck, I just received my hat (along with the MH3
mic for my KX2) and really like the hat. Not sure what you mean by
"limp". Maybe you mean the older hat was "stiffer"?

Regards!

Tom - KB2SMS


On 11/5/20 9:36 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>
> I really liked the Elecraft hat (baseball cap) I bought a couple years ago so 
> I bought another one this year just to have a spare. BUT the newest one, 
> while the same brand, is not the same. They are made in different countries. 
> The cloth is very limp and does not feel as secure and comfortable as the old 
> one. They look the same inside and outside, but don’t feel the same and it 
> seems to be the material difference...too soft and limp.
> Silly issue I know, but while I am pleased about and have just about 
> everything that Elecraft markets, I’m disappointed by the latest version of 
> the hat.
> Just sayin’
>
> Chuck KE9UW
> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>
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[Elecraft] Newer Elecraft hat not as good as the earlier ones...

[hawley, charles j jr]

I really liked the Elecraft hat (baseball cap) I bought a couple years ago so I 
bought another one this year just to have a spare. BUT the newest one, while 
the same brand, is not the same. They are made in different countries. The 
cloth is very limp and does not feel as secure and comfortable as the old one. 
They look the same inside and outside, but don’t feel the same and it seems to 
be the material difference...too soft and limp.
Silly issue I know, but while I am pleased about and have just about everything 
that Elecraft markets, I’m disappointed by the latest version of the hat.
Just sayin’

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Directional Coupler/Panadapter TX Sensor Question

[Charles Tropp]

Thanks! I will take it off your hands for $100 plus shipping. It sells for
$180 new. Check or Paypal?

On Mon, Oct 26, 2020 at 11:13 AM KE8G  wrote:

> It's the 2Kw version
>
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2020 at 10:30 AM Charles Tropp 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Jim,
>> What power level? 200W or 2K?
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2020 at 10:06 AM KE8G  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi All,
>>> I have a  Elecraft Directional Coupler/Panadapter TX Sensor that I never
>>> use.  It came along in a package deal I had on a K3S, so it's just
>>> sitting
>>> around in the box with its E467139 cable.  The last time it was used was
>>> when the original owner demoed it for me prior to my purchase, since then
>>> it's been boxed.
>>>
>>> Any idea of what it would bring, if offered, for sale?
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>> 73 de Jim - KE8G
>>> __
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>>> Message delivered to charlestr...@gmail.com
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> *73, Charles N2SO*
>>
>>
>

-- 
*73, Charles N2SO*
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[hawley, charles j jr]

I have two of these kits, unbuilt. I never got around to installing one in my 
K2. I would be willing to let go of one of them...

Anybody know what they sold for back in '07 I guess?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Don Wilhelm 
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 12:32 PM
To: k7...@aol.com ; grazi...@roccon.com ; 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available.  Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for
his boards.  An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:
> Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though it. 
> http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73Jim H  k7sss In a 
> message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
> grazi...@roccon.com writes:
> Hello, someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
> the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it ? 
> Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY
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Re: [Elecraft] ELECRAFT MACRO PROGRAMMING BOOK BY FRED CADY

[hawley, charles j jr]

You’re allowed to print a copy for your own use. I prefer the print too.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Oct 9, 2020, at 12:43 PM, K5ENL  wrote:
> 
> Not sure if this is the correct place to post this - I apologize if it isn't
> == I know the Macro Programming Book is available in PDF and have it but I
> would prefer a printed copy if anyone has one they would be willing to part
> with.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Ernie
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] New boxes and packing for Elecraft equipment

[hawley, charles j jr]

K3 bought as kits!

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Oct 9, 2020, at 9:45 AM, Frank Krozel  wrote:
> 
> Curious if the original shipping boxes seems to work when the radio is sent 
> out, why re-invent the box?
> 
> -73-  FrankKG9H
> kg9hfr...@gmail.com
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about shipping.

[hawley, charles j jr]

They sell the shipping boxes

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Oct 8, 2020, at 7:05 PM, weave...@usermail.com wrote:
> 
> I was dreaming of pulling the trigger on the K4 next year and was thinking 
> the same thing. This thread may save me a phone call :-).
> 
> My apologies to Jerry, W1IE for spamming his personal mailbox :-(
> 
> 73,
> Bill WE5P
> 
> Comfortably Numb
> 
>> On Oct 8, 2020, at 18:26, w...@jetbroadband.com wrote:
>> 
>> All,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I wonder if Elecraft would sell to its' consumers the boxes and packaging
>> material that would fit our radio, amps and other Elecraft products?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Jerry, W1IE
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: W vs K broadcast station callsigns

[hawley, charles j jr]

“Beginning with the introduction of licensing in late 1912, the standard 
practice had been to assign call 
letters starting with "W" to radio 
stations east of the Mississippi River. However, KDKA happened to receive its 
assignment during a short period during which land stations were being issued 
call letters from a sequential block of "K" call letters that had previously 
been assigned only to ship stations. Although the original policy was restored 
a few months later, KDKA was permitted to keep its non-standard call 
sign.[11]”

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack

On Oct 6, 2020, at 12:36 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

So how did KDKA in Pittsburgh, Pa become a Western callsign?

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/6/2020 1:04 PM, a...@elecraft.com wrote:
More than you ever wanted to know about the convention of giving "W" callsigns 
to broadcast stations east of the Mississippi and "K" callsigns to the west:
https://earlyradiohistory.us/kwtrivia.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] Status of Add-ons for K3?

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’m from Chicago, so seems like we got three or four at once. But I do remember 
the first TV set, Dumont 12 inch round tube, 1948.
A friend of mine got a Halicrafters 5 inch or so near the same time, and an 
antenna on a tower. Plus an oil filled thing to look through that made the 
image bigger.
Remember those colored plastic things people put over the screen to add a bit 
of color?

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Sep 20, 2020, at 1:32 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> and some of us remember the arrival of the first TV station in town
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 9/20/2020 10:11 AM, David Gilbert wrote:
>> 
>> You're forgetting that you're talking to hams here ... almost all of us are 
>> likely to be old enough to remember that commercial.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Dave   AB7E
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 9/20/2020 5:40 AM, Bob KD7YZ wrote:
>>> Magic or Memorex?
>>> (most of you are too young to remember the TV commercial)
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD Issues, But I Love It!

[hawley, charles j jr]

Thank you. That’s likely another good answer. I got a couple direct emails and 
the one I tried first was to put the mode in the macro string first. That seems 
to work with many tries, no mishaps. So that’s where I left it.
Thanks for the reply,

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 16, 2020, at 6:36 PM, w4sc  wrote:
> 
> A possible solution:
> 
> 1) FA705;DE100;MD3;
> 
> Check DExxx command in programmers manual.
> 
> 73 de Ben W4SC
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD Issues, But I Love It!

[hawley, charles j jr]

Another small issue I have had is when I am on say 3710 KHz LSB
and send the macro FA705;MD3;
the K3s goes to 7049.280 KHz CW sometimes. (720 Hz is my offset for CW)
If I send FA705;MD3; again right away
it goes to 7050 KHz CW

Then when I send FA371;MD1;
the K3s goes to 3710.720 KHz LSB sometimes
Again, if I send FA371;MD1; again right away
the K3s goes to 3710 KHz LSB.

This has always been the case and has nothing to do with the wrong macro being 
sent...
am I not allowing for something in my macros?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW



From: Charles J. Hawley 
Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 12:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: K-POD Issues, But I Love It!

I love this K-Pod, BUT I’ve sort of worn out 3 of them. The symptom is that the 
most used buttons get noisy and trigger another macro from another address. 
When I had the first one do that, I did extensive testing to eliminate rf 
noise, etc.
And a new unit however proved to work perfectly...for about 4 months. When it 
started doing the same thing Elecraft said it was highly unlikely and 
especially twice to the same guy, but they sent me another one anyway. Great 
company!
Now that one after a year is doing it again. I rearranged the macros to 
different buttons of the two macros I mostly use, and it works flawlessly again 
for those two. I doubt that Elecraft will keep sending me these things, maybe 
I’m missing something. But all I can come up with is noisy switches, double 
triggering. Anybody have similar issues?

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size

[hawley, charles j jr]

Ahh...just goes to show I don’t know much about that, what shoots a .223?

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 31, 2020, at 12:29 PM, Gordon LaPoint  wrote:
> 
> Common bullet sizes!
> 
>> On 8/31/2020 13:05 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> No.
>> 25.4 mm = 1 inch is easy
>> 
>> Chuck Jack Hawley
>> KE9UW
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack
>> 
>>>> On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:18 AM, Charlie T  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Metric conversion hints:
>>> 
>>> Just remember,  9mm = .357",
>>>5.56mm = .223",
>>> 
>>> Now, wasn't that easy?
>>> 
>>> Charlie k3ICH
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> __
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> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size

[hawley, charles j jr]

No. 
25.4 mm = 1 inch is easy

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Aug 31, 2020, at 10:18 AM, Charlie T  wrote:
> 
> Metric conversion hints:
> 
> Just remember,  9mm = .357", 
>5.56mm = .223",
> 
> Now, wasn't that easy? 
> 
> Charlie k3ICH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size

[hawley, charles j jr]

Metric 6 mm is close enough to thread on but wrong threads per inch?

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Aug 28, 2020, at 3:35 PM, Mooneer Salem  wrote:
> 
> Tried some normal 1/4"-20 hex nuts from Lowe's too (much too thick mind
> you, but should at least confirm if the diameter/TPI are correct) and no
> such luck.
> 
> Interestingly, I took off the nut from a spare SMA pigtail and it was able
> to mate it with the microphone connector. However, I couldn't rotate it
> past 1/2 turn or so and I didn't want to force it with tools and
> potentially damage the jack. If it was the correct size, I'd have been able
> to tighten it much further by hand, right?
> 
> -Mooneer K6AQ
> 
>> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:21 PM hawley, charles j jr 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> 1/4"-20  I think
>> 
>> Chuck Hawley
>> c-haw...@illinois.edu
>> 
>> Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>> aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>> 
>> --
>> *From:* elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
>> on behalf of Mooneer Salem 
>> *Sent:* Friday, August 28, 2020 3:12 PM
>> *To:* Elecraft Reflector ; elecraft...@groups.io
>> 
>> *Subject:* [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size
>> 
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> Does anyone know what exactly would replace the microphone nut on the KX3?
>> (I seem to have somehow misplaced mine.) The jack itself seemed to measure
>> 1/4" OD but some 1/4"-32 panel nuts that I found don't seem to screw into
>> it.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> -Mooneer K6AQ
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size

[hawley, charles j jr]

1/4"-20  I think

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Mooneer Salem 
Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:12 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector ; elecraft...@groups.io 

Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size

Hi all,

Does anyone know what exactly would replace the microphone nut on the KX3?
(I seem to have somehow misplaced mine.) The jack itself seemed to measure
1/4" OD but some 1/4"-32 panel nuts that I found don't seem to screw into
it.

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Part number for K2 AF gain potentiometer and others

[hawley, charles j jr]

Here's a 5 K...hare to find the exact one without seeing it in person.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bourns-inc/PTV09A-4015F-B502/PTV09A-4015F-B502-ND/3781115

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: hawley, charles j jr 
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 9:33 AM
To: Albin Stigö ; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Part number for K2 AF gain potentiometer and others

How about these...? You'll have to measure the dimensions of your old pot to 
see.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/P090S-14T20BR10K/987-1277-ND/2408854
P090S-14T20BR10K TT Electronics/BI | Potentiometers, Variable Resistors | 
DigiKey<https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/P090S-14T20BR10K/987-1277-ND/2408854>
Order today, ships today. P090S-14T20BR10K – 10k Ohm 1 Gang Linear Through Hole 
Potentiometer Detent 1 Kierros Conductive Plastic 0.03W, 1/32W PC Pins, Board 
Locks from TT Electronics/BI. Pricing and Availability on millions of 
electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com


Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Albin Stigö 
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 5:22 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Part number for K2 AF gain potentiometer and others

Hi again,

I wonder if anyone has digikey/mouser part numbers for the K2's AF
gain 5k audio-taper pot and also for the 5k linear pots (keyer, power
etc). They are a bit worn on mine.


73, Albin SM6WJM
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Re: [Elecraft] Part number for K2 AF gain potentiometer and others

[hawley, charles j jr]

How about these...? You'll have to measure the dimensions of your old pot to 
see.

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/tt-electronics-bi/P090S-14T20BR10K/987-1277-ND/2408854
P090S-14T20BR10K TT Electronics/BI | Potentiometers, Variable Resistors | 
DigiKey
Order today, ships today. P090S-14T20BR10K – 10k Ohm 1 Gang Linear Through Hole 
Potentiometer Detent 1 Kierros Conductive Plastic 0.03W, 1/32W PC Pins, Board 
Locks from TT Electronics/BI. Pricing and Availability on millions of 
electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
www.digikey.com


Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Albin Stigö 
Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 5:22 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Part number for K2 AF gain potentiometer and others

Hi again,

I wonder if anyone has digikey/mouser part numbers for the K2's AF
gain 5k audio-taper pot and also for the 5k linear pots (keyer, power
etc). They are a bit worn on mine.


73, Albin SM6WJM
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Re: [Elecraft] Question on K3S and Winlink Express

[Charles]

Thanks Lyn - just joined up on Slack and will check in soon. Day job getting in 
the way of my hobbies again!

Best regards,

Bret

aka Charles Jessee N4SRN

-- Original Message --

Brett -

I'm not Bob ... but I might be able to help with your Winlink issues.

I am quite active on the various P2P modes in Winlink express and have
formed a nationwide group to become proficient in handling P2P message
traffic in the case of a "grid down" emergency (no internet, no cells, no
repeaters, no power).

You may be too close to the gateway station, especially with a vertical
antenna (NVIS might even be marginal at 5 miles).

If you'd like some other stations to try, at a greater distant and in P2P
mode, let me know.

73
Lyn, W0LEN

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of MaverickNH
Sent: Sunday, August 02, 2020 8:59 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question on K3S and Winlink Express

Any luck with that Bob? I've been using Winlink on Packet VHF from a Kenwood
TM-D710G but wanted to try 80m with my K3S. I'm to the point where Ardop is
trying to connect to a local gateway about 5mi away from a 43ft vertical
with remote ATU at base at 50W. No connection yet...

I'm able to RX/TX on WSJT-X so figure my configuration should work, but
perhaps I need to tweak it for Ardop?

BRET/N4SRN

--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna tuners

[hawley, charles j jr]

Wasn't there a debate between Maxwell and Walter Bruene (designed the Collins 
30L1) on the conjugate match...I think Bruene disagreed with the popular notion 
of a conjugate match.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 18, 2020, at 3:01 PM, Gary Peterson  wrote:
> 
> You are in good company with Walter Maxwell, W2DU, now silent key.  Maxwell 
> was an engineer at RCA.  He designed the antennas on several earth orbiting 
> satellites and the antenna on the Lunar Rover.  He explained this quite 
> succinctly in his book Reflections (all three editions), by use of the 
> conjugate matching theorem.  As I recall, that chapter in his book (peer 
> reviewed by the RCA engineering department) was called My Antenna Tuner Tunes 
> My Antenna.
> 
> Gary, K0CX
> 
> But if the "tuner" is an LC network, like an adjustable L network, T network, 
> Pi network, or a linked-coupled network, then I strongly disagree.
> A tuner is a 2-port network. A transmission line is also a 2-port network. 
> Both networks obey reciprocity, meaning that what you do to one port of the 
> network will have a direct influence on the opposite end.
> That being said, if an antenna exhibits a complex impedance at our frequency 
> of interest, and that behavior can be corrected (brought to resonance) by the 
> application of a particular value of reactance at the antenna's feedpoint, 
> then that application of reactance can, for reasons of convenience, be made 
> at the "shack end" of the transmission line. As such, the "tuner" in the 
> shack is really "tuning" the antenna!
> John, KD2BD
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[Elecraft] WANTED ELECRAFT KTA500 Auto Tuner

[Charles Tropp]

Please direct your response off list.

-- 
73, Charles N2SO
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[Elecraft] WANTED ELECRAFT P3

[Charles Tropp]

Please direct your response off list.

-- 
73, Charles N2SO
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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD Coiled Cord?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Oh sorry. I was still thinking of usb. The aux out can control an external 
device like an antenna switch...with a macro. Page 12

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 17, 2020, at 2:37 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> Computer hookup for upgrades 
> 
> Chuck Jack Hawley 
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>> On Jul 17, 2020, at 1:20 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
>> 
>> Just curious and a bit too busy to go look it up right now, what is the AUX 
>> jack for on the back of my K-POD?
>> 
>> 73,
>> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
>> Sparks NV DM09dn
>> Washoe County
>> 
>>>> On 7/17/2020 7:08 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>>> My K-Pod, an early one, has a rear-panel USB-B connector labeled "USB", 
>>> used to install K-Pod firmware and also for a K4 connection. K-Pod DC power 
>>> is also provided through this cable.
>>> 
>>> I use a very standard USB A to B cable.
>>> 
>>> 73 de Dick, K6KR
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD Coiled Cord?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Computer hookup for upgrades 

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 17, 2020, at 1:20 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Just curious and a bit too busy to go look it up right now, what is the AUX 
> jack for on the back of my K-POD?
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 7/17/2020 7:08 AM, Dick Dievendorff wrote:
>> My K-Pod, an early one, has a rear-panel USB-B connector labeled "USB", used 
>> to install K-Pod firmware and also for a K4 connection. K-Pod DC power is 
>> also provided through this cable.
>> 
>> I use a very standard USB A to B cable.
>> 
>> 73 de Dick, K6KR
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K-POD Coiled Cord?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Oh...not the same as the K3 6 pin connectors?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Dick Dievendorff 
Sent: Thursday, July 16, 2020 10:00 PM
To: Eric Norris 
Cc: elecraft@mailman qth. net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K-POD Coiled Cord?

It’s a standard USB-A to USB-B cable from K4 to K-Pod. I’m not sure about 
coiled...

73 de Dick, K6KR

> On Jul 16, 2020, at 19:50, Eric Norris  wrote:
>
> Has anyone found a high-quality coiled cord to replace the K-POD to K4
> cord?  Is there a length/type restriction?
>
> 73 Eric WD6DBM
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Re: [Elecraft] Waterproof SO-239 covers

[hawley, charles j jr]

I wiggle the connector as I finger tighten the barrel. The result is that they 
are difficult to unscrew. Also I use a heavy silicone grease on the threads and 
on the back where the barrel contacts the connector. I have never had any 
issues with water in 20 years doing that.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 16, 2020, at 12:49 PM, Mike Harris via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I must say that over many years and without any ill effect I've never bought 
> into this idea of Gorilering up a PL259 with pliers beyond finger tight. A 
> quarter of a turn is an unbelievable suggestion. I've just tried it and a 
> couple of degrees is the best I could do without being brutal and even then I 
> don't thing it would go any further.
> 
> Urban myth maybe?
> 
> Also, I've never had a failure after simply applying a generous wrap of self 
> amalgamating tape, nothing else, to waterproof coax connectors. Our UV 
> environment is pretty powerful, clear skies and sunshine can turn the skin on 
> my head into huge dandruff seven days later after 30 minutes exposure.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Mike VP8NO
> 
>> On 16/07/2020 12:21, Phil Kane wrote:
>>> On 7/15/2020 6:50 PM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
>>> I would use Coax Seal. Same idea as duct seal but it's more pliable,
>>> more wx resistant and a little stickier. It will last forever, never
>>> hardens and can be peeled off when needed. Might want to screw pl-259
>>> shells onto the socket threads first, then seal them. The sockets &
>>> shells will be pristine when you go to use them.
>> Don't forget to tighten the connector 1/4 turn after "finger tight" with
>> a pair of pliers to make a real seal.
>> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
>> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>>> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
>> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Waterproof SO-239 covers

[hawley, charles j jr]

https://www.americanradiosupply.com/pl-259-so-239-uhf-coaxial-protective-dust-cover-rain-cap/
[https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-47f02/products/114/images/5289/ARS_G510_CAP_IMG__21773.1507979153.200.200.jpg?c=2]
PL-259 / SO-239 UHF Coaxial Protective Dust Cover - Rain 
Cap
PL-259 SO-239 Coaxial Cap Protective Dust Cover - ARS-G510
www.americanradiosupply.com


Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Dave Cole 
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2020 9:57 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waterproof SO-239 covers

American Radio Supply sells metal covers that thread onto SO-239, and
have a soft rubber insert.  I have been using them on outdoor connectors
for years now, and they work well...

73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

On 7/15/20 6:50 PM, Drew AF2Z wrote:
> I would use Coax Seal. Same idea as duct seal but it's more pliable,
> more wx resistant and a little stickier. It will last forever, never
> hardens and can be peeled off when needed. Might want to screw pl-259
> shells onto the socket threads first, then seal them. The sockets &
> shells will be pristine when you go to use them.
>
> 73,
> Drew
> AF2Z
>
>
>
> On 07/15/20 18:52, Tommy wrote:
>> I wrap some duct seal putty around mine. Get it at Home Depot for
>> cheap. Works fine. I forget what I paid, around $2-3 for a brick of it
>> I think. Stays soft and pliable.
>>
>> 73 de Tom - KB2SMS
>>
>>
>> On 7/15/20 7:39 PM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
>>> * On 2020 15 Jul 16:07 -0500, Doug Daniels wrote:
 I just built a window antenna feedthrough panel, and want some
 waterproof
 covers for the unused bulkhead connectors. Most of the online
 reviews say
 that even the ones advertised to be waterproof are in fact not
 waterproof.
 Anyone have a source for ones that are?
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power out

[hawley, charles j jr]

I believe the calibration is under the label on top of the slug. I would guess 
if you had knowledge of a source of RF that would deflect the meter accurately 
mid scale given the slug you were calibrating, then that would be the best you 
could do. 

Not it matters for most ham radio use...fairly accurate repeatability is 
probably a much more valuable test result.

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 13, 2020, at 10:30 AM, Dave B via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I would not trust a Bird 43 or similar meter for any "Measurements"
> whatsoever.
> 
> Especially if you cannot prove that the slugs and meter body were
> calibrated together.
> 
> They are notoriously inaccurate, but are good for quick "power presence"
> indications, and "ball bark" VSWR checks.
> 
> I honestly do not know why Bird 43's etc, are so coveted by the ham
> community, they are awful things for making measurements..
> 
> Note that the difference between 8W and 15W, is a bit less than 3dB.
> (2.73dB, or less than half an 'S' point!)
> 
> And for 3 and 2.5W it's 0.79dB  (Less than 1dB is not bad.)
> 
> Also, how good is the MFJ load at VHF, VSWR wise.  The spec says 1.5:1
> above 30MHz.  What did the radio say about that?
> 
> 73.
> 
> Dave G0WBX (Who's spent the last 30+ years working with QRO RF for a
> living.  kHz to 10's of GHz, and many 10's of kW's.)
> 
> 
>> On 11/07/2020 20:40, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
>> From: Frank O'Donnell 
>> To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
>> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 power out
>> Message-ID: <07eb80bf-c36b-e2f8-b4f8-52144e84b...@inkbox.net>
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>> 
>> After a fair time of non-use, today I got out my KX3 and started working 
>> through configuration checklists. Among other things I thought I'd check 
>> the power out.
>> 
>> For this test I used a Bird 43 and MFJ-260C dummy load. For HF I used a 
>> Bird 2-30 MHz 25w element, and for 2m a 100-250 MHz 10w element. I put 
>> the KX3 in CW mode and keyed with the KXPD3 paddle. When changing to 
>> each HF band I hit the ATU Tune button.
>> 
>> On 40m and 20m I found that with the Pwr knob set to 15w, the Bird 
>> showed about 8w out. With the Pwr knob set to 5w, the power out is about 3w.
>> 
>> After changing the antenna port and Bird element, on 2m with the radio 
>> set to 3w the Bird shows about 2.5w out.
>> 
>> Any thoughts on these results, or suggestions on other things to check?
>> 
>> Thanks and 73,
>> 
>> Frank K6FOD
> 
> -- 
> Created on and sent from a Unix like PC running and using free and open 
> source software:
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Digital Display Unit for the Elecraft KPA500

[hawley, charles j jr]

It would be handy if it repeated the rs232 so you could leave the computer 
hooked up for the utility.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 13, 2020, at 8:23 AM, Macy monkeys  wrote:
> 
> 
> With any USPS luck I will be taking delivery of mine today unless delayed. 
> Will report to the forum how I like it...
> 
> John K7FD
> 
>> On Jul 13, 2020, at 5:58 AM, Keith Ennis via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I am not sure why my formatting got stripped out. I will try again. Keith 
>> Ennis (KV5J) is proud to introduce the second in his line of Digital Display 
>> Units.  The Digital Display Unit for Elecraft's KPA500. For the Elecraft 
>> KPA500 I have designed a compact, easy to read Digital Display Unit (DDU). 
>> It allows the monitoring of five crucial readings all at the same time. 1. 
>> Power amplifier's heat sink temperature2. Power amplifier's high voltage 
>> supply voltage3. Power amplifier's current4. Power amplifier's output 
>> power5. SWR that the KPA500 sees at its output  The DDU measures only 4X4X2 
>> with an easy to read 2 line display that can be located at the operating 
>> position and the KPA500 located up to 10 feet away. The DDU is designed with 
>> the following features: Easy to read 2 line displayNo USB or serial cable to 
>> computerNo com port in Windows to manageNo computer neededPlug and 
>> PlaySimply connect the supplied DC power cable to power supply and PC data 
>> jumper cable to the KPA500
> Retains all functions of the KPA500 front panelAll displayed info obtained 
> directly from the KPA500 The DDU will poll the KPA500 and display PA voltage 
> and PA temperature during receive and transmit cycles. It will add watts, SWR 
> and current during transmit. There is a built in hold time to keep the watts 
> and SWR displayed for a short amount of time after unkeying the amp. For more 
> information about the DDU visit:   WWW.KV5J.COM
>> 
>> 
>> Keith,KV5J
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>   On Monday, July 13, 2020, 07:11:19 AM CDT, Keith Ennis  
>> wrote:  
>> 
>> Keith Ennis (KV5J) is proud to introduce the second in his line of Digital 
>> Display Units.  The Digital Display Unit for Elecraft's KPA500. For the 
>> Elecraft KPA500 I have designed a compact, easy to read Digital Display Unit 
>> (DDU). It allows the monitoring of five crucial readings all at the same 
>> time. 1. Power amplifier's heat sink temperature2. Power amplifier's high 
>> voltage supply voltage3. Power amplifier's current4. Power amplifier's 
>> output power5. SWR that the KPA500 sees at its output  The DDU measures only 
>> 4X4X2 with an easy to read 2 line display that can be located at the 
>> operating position and the KPA500 located up to 10 feet away. The DDU is 
>> designed with the following features: Easy to read 2 line displayNo USB or 
>> serial cable to computerNo com port in Windows to manageNo computer 
>> neededPlug and PlaySimply connect the supplied DC power cable to power 
>> supply and PC data jumper cable to the KPA500Retains all functions of the 
>> KPA500 front panelAll displayed info ob
> tained directly from the KPA500 The DDU will poll the KPA500 and display PA 
> voltage and PA temperature during receive and transmit cycles. It will add 
> watts, SWR and current during transmit. There is a built in hold time to keep 
> the watts and SWR displayed for a short amount of time after unkeying the 
> amp. For more information about the DDU visit:   WWW.KV5J.COM
>> 
>> 
>> Keith,KV5J  
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Re: [Elecraft] Wayne's Story - "On Second Thought, I'll Take The Stairs

[hawley, charles j jr]

I've been riding a motorcycle for 50 years...now I know why. 
I did read Pirsig's book when it was first published, but didn't remember this. 
I did remember that his friend rode a BMW and Pirsig made shims for the BMW's 
handlebar mounts out of a beer can, but was careful to never tell his friend, 
John I think, where the shims came from.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 12, 2020, at 3:51 PM, Jim Ewing  wrote:
> 
> Relevant to what Wayne said is this quote from Pirsig:
> 
> *“That's all the motorcycle is, a system of concepts worked out in steel.
> There's no part in it, no shape in it, that is not out of someone's mind
> [...] I've noticed that people who have never worked with steel have
> trouble seeing this—that the motorcycle is primarily a mental phenomenon.*
> They associate metal with given shapes—pipes, rods, girders, tools,
> parts—all of them fixed and inviolable., and think of it as primarily
> physical. But a person who does machining or foundry work or forger work or
> welding sees "steel" as having no shape at all. Steel can be any shape you
> want if you are skilled enough, and any shape but the one you want if you
> are not. Shapes, like this tappet, are what you arrive at, what you give to
> the steel. Steel has no more shape than this old pile of dirt on the engine
> here. *These shapes are all of someone's mind. That's important to see.*
> The steel? Hell, even the steel is out of someone's mind. There's no steel
> in nature. Anyone from the Bronze Age could have told you that. All nature
> has is a potential for steel. There's nothing else there.”
> ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry
> Into Values 
> 
> So, it's important to see a main reason why these radios are so excellent;
> because they come from the minds of people who can express their love and
> talent for cw in radio circuits, just as eloquently as Wayne does in his
> story.
> 
> Jim N4TMM
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 under the hood

[hawley, charles j jr]

Elecraft is one of the most hands on companies. Just super when you talk to an 
engineer and get advice on how to self diagnose.
Back in another life I had an HP 60 KHz antenna preamp fail. Talking to an HP 
engineer, he suggested that he had one of those in his desk drawer and would 
pop it in the mail. That’s what I look for with ham radio purchases.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 7, 2020, at 11:16 AM, Grant Youngman  wrote:
> 
> Even if that’s the case, it’s quite straightforward to redact elements of a 
> photograph.
> 
> I just hope that when it arrives it doesn’t come with some of those pesky 
> “Warranty Void if Seal is Broken” things on it :-)
> 
> Grant NQ5T
> 
>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 12:06 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Top secret? Chip numbers and stuff?
>> 
>> Chuck Jack Hawley 
>> KE9UW
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
>> 
>>>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 10:58 AM, Drew AF2Z  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Are there any internal shots of the K4? I haven't seen any yet.
>>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 under the hood

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’ve been longing for inside pictures 

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 7, 2020, at 11:14 AM, Drew AF2Z  wrote:
> 
> I dunno... I don't think there are any inside shots of the K3 either, at 
> least on the Elecraft site. It seems curious to me.
> 
> I'd love to study them, but maybe it would be a bit of a "spoiler" for the 
> kit guys-- unboxing the kits is a lot of fun.
> 
> 73,
> Drew
> AF2Z
> 
> 
> 
>> On 07/07/20 11:06, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>> Top secret? Chip numbers and stuff?
>> Chuck Jack Hawley
>> KE9UW
>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack
>>>> On Jul 7, 2020, at 10:58 AM, Drew AF2Z  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Are there any internal shots of the K4? I haven't seen any yet.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Drew
>>> AF2Z
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 under the hood

[hawley, charles j jr]

Top secret? Chip numbers and stuff?

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jul 7, 2020, at 10:58 AM, Drew AF2Z  wrote:
> 
> Are there any internal shots of the K4? I haven't seen any yet.
> 
> 73,
> Drew
> AF2Z
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Re: [Elecraft] Strange Amplifier behavior

[Charles Johnson via Elecraft]

I have seen this happen when the K3 was connected to a computer via either USB 
or an RS232 serial cable and the computer was polling the K3 at a rapid rate 
(like several times a second) to determine its’ frequency and/or other 
operating parameters. This can cause the K3 to miss the data line signal from 
the KPA500. My solution was to slow the polling rate of the PC software.

73, Charles, K4ZRJ

 

> On Jul 5, 2020, at 17:07, Tom Doligalski via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a relatively old K3, which I use together with a KPA500 and a KAT500. 
> Most of the time this works flawlessly. 
> 
> However, occasionally the K3 gets confused and doesn’t realize that the 
> KPA500 is in “Operate” mode (rather an in standby). This results in the K3 
> sending 100 watts to the amp, and the amp faults. 
> 
> Again, this doesn’t happen often, and I can’t ascertain why it occurs. Most 
> of the time all is OK. 
> 
> The K3, KPA500 and the KAT500 all are running the latest firmware. 
> 
> Any idea?
> 
> 73
> 
> Tom W4KX
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[Elecraft] KPA-1500 Pure Signal Output

[charles]

Does anyone know if the RF coupler output in the KPA-1500 is functional
yet? 


Charles  K5UA
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 power cable polarity?

[hawley, charles j jr]

All good info about different rigs having reverse polarities on the connector. 
But this is about the cable for the KX2. 
BTW, if you read page 5 of the KX2 manual, under power supply, the manual 
states that the center pin is + and the striped wire is +. Checking the cable 
with an ohmmeter is highly recommended...never know when the wire supplier 
changed something. However I would assume Elecraft would not redesign the 
socket polarity. So that's reasonably safe.

Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 27, 2020, at 7:12 PM, Jay Rutherford  wrote:
> 
> You really need to check before connecting a power supply. My Tecsun PL600 
> charger shows positive on the outside shell. Who ever dreamed that one up?!
> 
> 73
> Jay K3BH
> 
>> On Sat, Jun 27, 2020, at 20:08, Jim Brown wrote:
>>> On 6/27/2020 2:22 PM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
>>> Measure which wire goes to the outside shell of the connector, that’s 
>>> ground.
>> 
>> Not always -- I have at least one consumer product and one piece of pro 
>> test gear that has V+ to the outside of the connector.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 power cable polarity?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Measure which wire goes to the outside shell of the connector, that’s ground.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 27, 2020, at 9:51 AM, Doug Daniels  wrote:
> 
> Just opened the box on my new KX2, and am about to put powerpoles on the
> power cable. Since both sides of the wire are black, which is the positive,
> the one with the white dashes?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -- 
> 
> --... ...--
> Doug
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Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

[hawley, charles j jr]

OK, Hi Dave,
Great enclosures BTW. I just got out my XG2 and re-admired the enclosure!

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Dave Van Wallaghen 
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 8:00 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

It was the first iteration of the XG2. It was only one band as opposed
to 3 on the XG2. It went out of production after the XG2 release.

I only know because I was asked to produce an enclosure for an XG1 and
like you, never heard of it until that point.

73,
Dave W8FGU

-- Original Message --
From: "hawley, charles j jr" 
To: "Ted Cowan" ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"

Sent: 6/26/2020 8:16:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

>I probably want to keep my XG2 and XG3, but I'm not familiar with an XG1. What 
>is it?
>
>Chuck Hawley
>c-haw...@illinois.edu
>
>  Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>  aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>
>
>From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
>behalf of Ted Cowan 
>Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 11:04 PM
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
>Subject: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2
>
>I am looking to buy an Elecraft XG1 or XG2, either built and working or in
>kit form.
>
>73, Ted NA7C
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Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

[hawley, charles j jr]

Of course! I see it's like an XG-2 but only has 40M output instead of three 
bands.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Bert 
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 8:51 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

The best way to find out is to Google Elecraft XG1.

Bert VE3NR


On 2020-06-26 8:16, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
> I probably want to keep my XG2 and XG3, but I'm not familiar with an XG1. 
> What is it?
>
> Chuck Hawley
>   c-haw...@illinois.edu
>
>   Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>   aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
> behalf of Ted Cowan 
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 11:04 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
> Subject: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2
>
> I am looking to buy an Elecraft XG1 or XG2, either built and working or in
> kit form.
>
> 73, Ted NA7C
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

[hawley, charles j jr]

I probably want to keep my XG2 and XG3, but I'm not familiar with an XG1. What 
is it?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Ted Cowan 
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 11:04 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] Want to buy: Elecraft XG1 or XG2

I am looking to buy an Elecraft XG1 or XG2, either built and working or in
kit form.

73, Ted NA7C
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Utility Restore config error

[hawley, charles j jr]

I’ve gotten that. I just  saved again and that one was ok. Then I deleted the 
error one...but I don’t think the save with the error is necessarily bad.

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 19, 2020, at 6:38 PM, "g...@gmx.net"  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> anybody encountered a problem restoring a previously saved
> configuration? The error is "No response to write EEPROM block".
> tnx 73 Gernot DF5RF
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[hawley, charles j jr]

Hey, that's a thought. Reinvent them to match the height of the K4 and maybe 
include the tuner inside the KPA500 box.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Bill Steffey NY9H 
Sent: Wednesday, June 17, 2020 7:54 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

what could they do that would  update them  make them taller
like the K4 

On 6/17/2020 12:47 AM, Don Putnick wrote:
> With the sunset of the K3S, what are the plans for the future of the KPA500
> and KAT500? Enquiring minds want to know.
> 73 Don NA6Z
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--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

[hawley, charles j jr]

Seems like they are just as applicable to the K4 as well.

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Don Putnick 
Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 11:47 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] Future of KPA500 & KAT500

With the sunset of the K3S, what are the plans for the future of the KPA500
and KAT500? Enquiring minds want to know.
73 Don NA6Z
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s discontinued?

[hawley, charles j jr]

I wondered too, since the K4 was almost a bargain with it's features over the 
K3 with options price wise.

I watched the video...ELECRAFT K4 IN DEPTH with WA6HHQ at Waters & Stanton Ltd 
Portsmouth UK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-PHL68WIdg

and got anxious to get one when they quit hogging them for themselves. :)

Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 16, 2020, at 11:56 AM, Charlie T  wrote:

I don't understand the "shock" at the K4 pricing.

If you "load-up" a K3S with all the options you'd have to buy that are
included in the K4,  AND add a P3,  with VGA & transmit monitor,
I think you'll find the K4 is a BARGAIN!

73, Charlie k3ICH




-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2020 11:24 PM
To: Gary Gregory 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3s discontinued?

Gary, VK1ZZ, wrote:

I was hoping to add a K3s to my current setup (K3 #679) but that
appears to be out of the question dammit.


Hi Gary,

We sold the last K3S, I believe, but we'll have a number of upgraded, fully
warranted K3's available for purchase on the web site sometime soon. Some
were used for DXpeditions.


Was there a reason why the K3s was discontinued?

Yes; we felt it was time to create a new, hybrid SDR with a large,
integrated touch screen and virtually unlimited hardware/software expansion
capability.

The K3/K3S had a good run -- over 12 years. During that time we created many
options and accessories and released dozens of free firmware upgrades.
Everything we learned from that experience, plus a lot of new R&D, is being
incorporated into the K4. (It's an exciting radio. For me, every morning
it's a battle of wills to stop playing with it and get my work done :)

We're looking forward to getting the K4 into customers' hands. Our suppliers
are coming back on line. And so are we ... but we're prioritizing the health
of our staff, which requires some heroics from the facilities department.

73,
Wayne
N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

[hawley, charles j jr]

I use a Knipex wire stripping tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/Knipex-1511120-Coated-Wire-Stripping-Tweezers/dp/B003RWS8XE

I ordered the 0.5 blade which seems to be best for our small wire.
Use a light pressure and this thing works great.

Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack

On Jun 12, 2020, at 11:25 AM, "qr...@roadrunner.com"  
wrote:

The old tried and true method is to use an X-acto knife to scrape the
insulation off with. Simple, not very elegant but it always works.

72

Howard Kraus, K2UD

   -From: "Robert G Strickland
via Elecraft"
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc:
Sent: Friday June 12 2020 10:03:58AM
Subject: [Elecraft] stripping insulation from enamel wires

Here's an old problem that I've never solved: how to strip the enamel
insulation from wires for winding toroids.

The instruction say:
-dip in a solder pot which I don't have
-use a soldering iron to, presumably, burn the insulation off which
has
never worked for me.

Leaving soldering pots aside, the hot iron approach has never burned
off
any insulation even with tip temp's hovering around 1000F. Just
doesn't
happen. Maybe it's the soldering iron, maybe my method, but
whichever,
the enamel insulation just sits there. I end up using a file to
scrape
off the insulation which is tough on the wires and hard to predict
when
enough is enough. Any insightful hints? Thanks much.

..robert

--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

[hawley, charles j jr]

Ah so...
That's going to take some disassembly. Disconnect the battery. Remove the RTC 
and unscrew the control board and pull the front panel off I guess. I just 
looked and need to install the 5 volt jumper and then the resistor. I finished 
building this 10 years ago so I had to get out the assembly manual 🙂
Thanks for the info,

73,

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: Dave Van Wallaghen 
Sent: Friday, June 12, 2020 9:11 AM
To: hawley, charles j jr ; Elecraft Reflector 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

Hi Charles,

Bias for the MH4 (and previous MH2) mic is provided by placing a 5.6k resistor 
between pin 1 and 6 on the mic connector of the K2.

Most of us just solder the resistor to those pins on the back of the mic 
connector on the Front Panel Board. My MH4 came with a small envelope that 
contained a 5.6k resistor and 8 2-pin jumpers for the mic config header. The UP 
and DN buttons on the MH4 switch between  VFO A and VFO B on the K2. It 
switches bands on the K3, KX3 and KX2.

73,
Dave, W8FGU

On June 12, 2020 10:02:15 "hawley, charles j jr"  wrote:

The Elecraft manual says the condenser type MH4 mic is acceptable for use on 
the K2, but I don't see any bias for it in the K2 or SSB2 schematics. I never 
had a mic for the K2 so I thought I'd get the MH4 and maybe use it on my K3s as 
well.
Am I missing something? Is there bias for it on the K2?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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[Elecraft] MH4 Mic on a K2?

[hawley, charles j jr]

The Elecraft manual says the condenser type MH4 mic is acceptable for use on 
the K2, but I don't see any bias for it in the K2 or SSB2 schematics. I never 
had a mic for the K2 so I thought I'd get the MH4 and maybe use it on my K3s as 
well.
Am I missing something? Is there bias for it on the K2?

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[hawley, charles j jr]

Maybe swap synthesizers


Jack BMW Motorcycles
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 2:00 PM, Jack Brindle via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> That probably wouldn’t help. In this case the system includes the SubRx, the 
> Synthesizer and all the interconnects and cables that connect these to the 
> rest of the radio. 
> 
> I would check the interconnects, especially the tmp coax cables that go from 
> the SubRx to the rear panel connector and to the Synthesizer. Also make sure 
> the SubRx synthesizer is working properly. That might also explain the SubRx 
> issue.
> 
> 73!
> Jack, W6FB
> 
> 
>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 11:26 AM, hawley, charles j jr  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Maybe you could remove the sub and send it for evaluation somewhat 
>> economically 
>> 
>> Chuck Jack Hawley 
>> KE9UW
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
>> 
>>>> On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:59 PM, Ray Albers  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
>>> seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
>>> even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
>>> factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.
>>> 
>>> If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
>>> the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
>>> some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
>>> reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
>>> connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
>>> antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
>>> with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
>>> CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
>>> install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.
>>> 
>>> So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
>>> diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
>>> QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.
>>> 
>>> I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
>>> then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
>>> transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
>>> never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
>>> initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
>>> 20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.
>>> 
>>> I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
>>> re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
>>> while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
>>> could bring it to life. Nada.
>>> 
>>> I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
>>> to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
>>> feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.
>>> 
>>> Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
>>> great!
>>> 
>>> Thanks for listening.
>>> 
>>> 73
>>> Ray K2HYD
>>> __
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> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Sub receiver intermittant failures

[hawley, charles j jr]

Maybe you could remove the sub and send it for evaluation somewhat economically 

Chuck Jack Hawley 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On Jun 10, 2020, at 12:59 PM, Ray Albers  wrote:
> 
> I bought my K3 used. It's now a bit over six years old (S/N 8240). The
> seller kindly included the manual, original invoice, a repair invoice and
> even the Fred Cady book. The K3 was factory assembled, with a
> factory-installed KRX3 subreceiver and the BNC auxiliary antenna connection.
> 
> If I had bought a new K3 or K3S I probably would not have bothered getting
> the subreceiver, but since I have it, I figured I may as well put it to
> some use. I don't chase DX but the notion of experimenting with diversity
> reception interested me. So I threw a chunk of wire over the roof and
> connected it to the BNC input. Admittedly not a really good diversity
> antenna (much too close to the main antenna, for one thing) but OK to play
> with.  When I found that the Carrier Operated Relay was operating as I sent
> CW, in order to protect the sub-receiver, I stopped until I could get and
> install an Array Solutions Receiver Front End Protector.
> 
> So I had many months of fun and even found that at times there was enough
> diversity between the antennas to help with reception in the face of fast
> QSB. And then suddenly the sub started failing.
> 
> I check it when turning the radio on, and often the sub is working but
> then after a while it stops. It doesn't seem to be correlated to
> transmitting, i.e., it may stop after I've been sending but not always and
> never right away. There has even been a time or two when it didn't work
> initially but then came back to life after a while. Often it will work on
> 20 and up but not on 80, 40, and 30.
> 
> I've opened the radio, taken the cover off the sub, and poked, wiggled and
> re-seated everything I could get my hands on. I've even tried this poking
> while the radio was powered up and the sub was quiet, to see if any poking
> could bring it to life. Nada.
> 
> I suppose at this point the "right" thing to do would be to send the radio
> to Elecraft and I may do that at some distant future point, but right now I
> feel that I don't want the sub badly enough to warrant the expense and time.
> 
> Of course if meanwhile anyone has a miracle cure to suggest, that'd be
> great!
> 
> Thanks for listening.
> 
> 73
> Ray K2HYD
> __
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[Elecraft] Elecraft W2 For Sale (Sold Pending receipt of funds)

[Charles Tropp]

Many thanks for your interest.

-- 
73, Charles N2SO
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[Elecraft] W-2 Wattmeter for Sale

[Charles Tropp]

I have a W-2 that needs a new home. Includes 1 2K power sensor, PC
Cable with RS232 connector and power cable with Anderson power poles.
Price $195 includes CONUS postage. Paypal OK.

-- 
73, Charles N2SO
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