Re: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I think a K2 would not be a great project for most 8 year olds. However, a 
simpler (and cheaper) kit like this one from MFJ should be within a beginner 
skill level, given some reasonable coaching. (Also a soldering station to avoid 
soldering iron frustration!)

https://mfjenterprises.com/collections/kit/products/vec-1340k 
 

Which raises a question: what other similar kits are still around? As far as I 
know, the ones from the good old days (1990s) are defunct.

Doug, W0UHU

---

Message: 22
Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2022 17:44:50 -0400
From: Kevin Cozens mailto:ke...@ve3syb.ca>>
To: K2 mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unassembled K2 Vs Assembled Marketability
Message-ID: <3006cfa4-f73e-efa0-93a2-f70717f91...@ve3syb.ca 
>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

On 2022-03-13 15:13, jerry wrote:
> My 8 y/o son has been lusting after an $800 Lego kit.  A walking Star
> Wars tank. It has something like 8000 pieces.  I explained to my wife
> that it would reasonably keep him busy for a whole week.  But she didn't
> see the logic :).  So we bought him a simpler kit with 1200 pieces that
> will keep him busy for one day.

I don't know whether the K2 or the $800 Lego kit would take less time to 
build but he will learn some new skills assembling the K2. The K2 could 
spark an interest that could last a lifetime where the walking Star Wars 
tank could be forgotten in a few months.

-- 
Cheers!

Kevin.

http://www.ve3syb.ca/    | "Nerds make the 
shiny things that
https://www.patreon.com/KevinCozens  | 
distract the mouth-breathers, and
| that's why we're powerful"
Owner of Elecraft K2 #2172  |
#include  | --Chris Hardwick


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[Elecraft] [K2] Report on cheap power supply

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Santa Claus brought me a cheap 14 volt wall wart style power supply. The 
purpose of this is to charge the K2 built-in battery.
 
https://smile.amazon.com/PERFEIDY-Switching-Regulated-Transformer-Interchangeable/dp/B09DSCD62C/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=14+volt+wall+wart=1638756395=8-8
 

 

The unit is made in China, and the cost is $16. The nameplate rating is:
Input: 100 - 240 V AC 50/60 Hz 1A
Output: 14.0 V DC  1.0 A 14.0 W

The unit comes with a selection of connector adapters of various sizes, but the 
connector that is wired onto it is the right size for the K2 power socket.

Recall that the K2 receive current requirement is in the neighborhood of 120 - 
250 mA, while the transmit current is 2.0 A or more, or potentially somewhat 
less if current limit is set. So this power supply is adequate for charging the 
battery, adequate for receiving, and inadequate for transmitting. 

After the battery has been fully charged (overnight) with the 14.0 volt power 
supply, the radio shows 13.8 V when the PS is connected, and 12.9 V with the PS 
is disconnected.

With the battery discharged so that it shows 10.0 volts with the PS 
disconnected, then when the PS is connected it shows 13.7 volts. This suggests 
that the PS is barely able to maintain its rated voltage output under a heavy 
charging load.

With the 14.0 V PS connected, I am not noticing any new noise when receiving 
with an antenna mounted outside my house. I have not tried transmitting.

A concern might be if the battery is fully charged using the 14 volt supply, 
and then a conventional 13.8 volt supply is accidentally connected with the 
battery turned on in the radio, then the voltage regulator of the conventional 
power supply might get confused.

This power supply seems to solve two problems:

1.) Cheap, small portable power for battery charging when traveling.
2.) Higher voltage than conventional ham power supplies, which should help 
battery life.

Doug, W0UHU.


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Re: [Elecraft] Simulated stereo

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

> 
> The K3 (and I think the KX3 and K4) has a simulated stereo function 
> which allows you delay the audio to one channel slightly, which makes 
> signals seem to stand out from the noise. I believe that the radios 
> newer than the K3 also have the ability to create stereo separation by 
> pitch, which helps in picking out CW signals in QRM.
> 
> My question is: is there some kind of device that you can get that will 
> take the monaural audio from a non-Elecraft radio or a K2 and produce 
> similar effects?
> -- 
> 73,
> Victor, 4X6GP
> Rehovot, Israel
> CWops #5
> Formerly K2VCO
> https://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

Some of the various Heil headphones, including the one on the Elecraft site, 
have a switch that passively selects between mono and simulated stereo by 
changing the phase between the two sides. It basically seems to widen the 
perceived space of the sound source, possibly helpful.

Doug, W0UHU.




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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping & Tinning Enameled Wire - Fast, Easy, Reliably

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

How hot does the solder need to be to burn off magnet wire insulation? I have 
my soldering station set to 710 degrees, and that does not seem to be enough 
when I try the “blob on end of iron” method.

Doug, W0UHU.

> On 24Dec, 2021, at 8:47 AM, jerry  wrote:
> 
> On 2021-12-23 20:49, SteveL wrote:
>> Jerry,
>> Years ago when I built my K2, somewhere I learned a Hakko 808
>> desolating tool was also an excellent enameled wire stripper and
>> tinning device.   The 808 has been replaced by the FR-301 but I would
>> expect similar results from this newer tool.  Either are stand-alone
>> desoldering guns with heated hollow tip and built in vacuum.
> 
> *** And there are Chinese copies available.  I got one, it works just
> fine.  I never thought of using it to strip magnet wire!  Gotta go try that.
> 
> The spinning stripper tool works great for wire thicker than 24AWG or so.  
> But for
> thin "receiver" wires it just breaks them off.
> 
> - Jerry KF6VB
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 212, Issue 9

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

My K2 PLL problems all originated in one inadequately tinned toroid wire. I 
have successfully built a fair number of kits with toroids, but it is pretty 
easy to end up with a lead that is not actually connected. Even though it looks 
good.

So that is where I would start, check for continuity on every single toroid.

Doug, W0UHU.


===

Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2021 22:35:30 + (GMT)
From: ROLAND HOWELL mailto:snowy.how...@btinternet.com>>
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 BFO problem
Message-ID: <35b68c67.9d375.17dc562ddff.webtop...@btinternet.com 
>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed


having repaired my PLL problem with a great deal of help and advice from 
Dave at tech support, Elecraft i moved onto the next set of tests which 
was the bfo frequencies, on selecting CAL, Counter i get a reading of 
4.9136, on pressing either the band up or down all i get is zero's.
Fitted crystals are 4.91s in X3 and X4 positions
Have checked all the details in the trouble shooting paragraph, i can 
find no fault with any of the components, all values and positions are 
correct.
I have to add that this was purchased as a non-runner.
Any advice appreciated
Snowy,G0HZE




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and working

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Hi Eric.

Can you be more specific about the mod that improved the KNB1? I know there 
were a few changes early on, but mine is from about 2010 so should have had all 
the official mods in the initial build. Other than the “make the threshold 
higher than it already is” mod, is there something else?

Doug, W0UHU.

> Message: 26
> Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2021 14:45:29 -0800
> From: Eric Norris mailto:norrislawfi...@gmail.com>>
> To: n4so@gmail.com 
> Cc: "elecraft@mailman qth. net"  >
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 Noise Blanker KNB1 already-built and
>   working
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> When you find one, be prepared to mod it--one of the widely used mods
> vastly helped mine.
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Cheap power supply for KBT2

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Thanks for the comments and ideas for a K2 battery charger. This would simply 
be to charge the battery when away from home, so I don’t really care about RF 
noise.

Doug, W0UHU.

> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Cheap power supply for KBT2
> 
> Hi Jim,
> 
> Excellent article.  I haven't checked if it is a source of noise, but it
> doesn't quite matter because this is a charger, not a power supply.  I only
> use it when I need to charge a battery, so it is OK.
> 
> Best 73,
> 
> Chris KM1B

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[Elecraft] [K2] Cheap power supply for KBT2

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Looking for ideas for a cheap 14 volt wall wart type power supply for 
recharging the KBT2 battery. Is there one available that has the right plug? I 
see lots of 12 volt and 14.4 volt chargers out there, but???

Thanks, Doug, W0UHU.


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] HI CUR ok?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Yep, got it. Thanks for your patience!

Doug, W0UHU 

> On Sep 2, 2021, at 15:42, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> Please read this whole post.  If you have questions about any part of it, 
> please ask.
> 
> A Hi Cur message does not mean that the PA transistors are in danger.
> All it means is that the current draw is greater than what is set in CAL CUR.
> 
> Set CAL CUR to 3.5 for most operation, and all should be OK.  If you have 
> 'special conditions', like when running on a battery, you might want to set 
> CAL CUR to a lower value to indicate that the battery voltage is getting low.
> Check your power source voltage at the K2 end - ideally it should be 13.8 or 
> even higher.
> 
> What does the voltage have to do with the current draw, you may ask -- The K2 
> attempts to maintain the power output requested by the Power knob.  Do a 
> little ohms law - if for a power of 10 watts, you need 13.8 volts and 2.5 
> amps, if your voltage during transmit drops to 12.7 volts, the current MUST 
> go up to maintain that 10 watts output.  The K2 firmware does just that, and 
> if the current increases above the CAL CUR setting, it will flash the HI CUR 
> message and fold the power back.  That is how the K2 protects the PA 
> transistors.
> 
> When operating on batteries with CAL CUR set at 2.5, you can expect a HI CUR 
> message at 10 watts.
> 
> So check your power source voltage in transmit (use the K2 display to see the 
> internal voltage) and if you have less than 12.7 volts, that is reason for 
> the Hi CUR message.
> 
> You can increase the CAL CUR setting to 3.5 with no harm - in fact, that is 
> what the setting should be if the KPA100 is installed.  CAL CUR and HI CUR 
> relate only to the base K2, and not to the KPA100 - that is an indication 
> that a CAL CUR setting of 3.5 is not a problem.  When I was repairing K2s, I 
> always set CAL CUR at 3.5 even if they were only a K2/10.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 9/2/2021 4:56 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:
>> I was out this morning trying some antenna configurations at the park, ten 
>> different setups, one one of them gave me a HI CUR error. It was on 20 
>> meters with 10 watts and with the current limit set at 2.5 amps, left over 
>> from when I was working on the radio a few days ago. The SWR was 1.2 into a 
>> 49 foot wire using the KAT2 tuner.
>> 
>> Am I correct in understanding that high current in the power amplifier is 
>> not bad in and of itself, as long as it stays below the point where it 
>> damages the transistors? In other words, if the power setting is high (here, 
>> 10 watts) then with a good antenna the PA will see high current just as part 
>> of normal operation? And that the goal is to set the limit high enough (3.5 
>> A) so that the error doesn’t occur AND the transistors don’t burn out?
>> 
>> Sorry for asking these questions that were probably answered in 2002 or 
>> thereabouts!
>> 
>> 
> 
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[Elecraft] [K2] HI CUR ok?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I was out this morning trying some antenna configurations at the park, ten 
different setups, one one of them gave me a HI CUR error. It was on 20 meters 
with 10 watts and with the current limit set at 2.5 amps, left over from when I 
was working on the radio a few days ago. The SWR was 1.2 into a 49 foot wire 
using the KAT2 tuner.

Am I correct in understanding that high current in the power amplifier is not 
bad in and of itself, as long as it stays below the point where it damages the 
transistors? In other words, if the power setting is high (here, 10 watts) then 
with a good antenna the PA will see high current just as part of normal 
operation? And that the goal is to set the limit high enough (3.5 A) so that 
the error doesn’t occur AND the transistors don’t burn out?

Sorry for asking these questions that were probably answered in 2002 or 
thereabouts!

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] [K1] Reduce power when tuning K1?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

In learning about my new-to-me K2, I find that there is discussion about 
automatic reduction of transmit power during tuning. Does that apply to the K1 
as well? The K1 uses the same output transistor as the K2, but in a 
single-transistor class C configuration, compared to the K2 which uses two of 
them in a push-pull configuration that can put out more power and can work with 
SSB. But at 5 watts, I would think the K2 transistors would be less stressed 
than the K1’s.

Is it worth manually setting the K1 power down to a lower level when tuning, in 
order to avoid power transistor problems? Both my radios have the internal 
tuner options.

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] KDSP2

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I thought those were made of unobtanium. How is it compared to the regular 
audio filter?
> 
> ...So I just got a KDSP2 DSP audio filter.  Installed it in my K2.  My 
> goodness, the menus are cryptic!
> 
>   - Jerry KF6VB
> 
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[Elecraft] K2 keying mod kit

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Is there a packaged source for the required parts or do I get them from Mouser?

Thanks. 

Doug, W0UHU 
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Re: [Elecraft] Changing K1 sidetone frequency

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Thanks Don. I thought I remembered it being like this!

Doug, W0UHU

> On Jul 23, 2021, at 14:21, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> The answer is "yes and no".
> Set the sidetone pitch in the menu, then adjust capacitor C20 (BFO adjust)  
> to center the filter at 600 Hz.
> You also need to adjust the Transmit Offset to match (adjust C13) - see the 
> manual for the procedure.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 7/23/2021 11:58 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:
>> Could someone please remind me if you can change the K1 sidetone pitch 
>> without retuning the filters? Or is it like the K2?
>> 
>> 
> 
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[Elecraft] Changing K1 sidetone frequency

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Could someone please remind me if you can change the K1 sidetone pitch without 
retuning the filters? Or is it like the K2? 

I can’t find mention of it in the K1 manual and can’t remember. Wanting to try 
600 Hz. 

Thanks. 

Doug, W0UHU
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[Elecraft] K2 alive again, yay!

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Thanks to Don Wilhelm for his multiple suggestions on my problems with the K2 A 
to B kit. Turns out that my main error was insufficient stripping of the leads 
on the RFC 11 replacement toroid wire. Also I had some confusion deciphering 
the value of one of the resister packs. But in any case, the radio is back to 
normal now!:-)

Next step, adding the the immensely heavy internal lead-acid battery. In the 
meantime, I am hoping to get my K1 on the air in the Flight of the Bumble Bees 
this coming weekend.

Doug, W0UHU.


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[Elecraft] Shipping timeline (not K4)

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

FYI I ordered a battery kit for my K2 this morning, and the order was marked as 
shipped in only a few hours. So the system seems to be working as designed—at 
least for stuff that is in stock!

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] K2 antenna connector confusion

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I have slowly progressed to the point in the K2A2BKIT instructions step 
“Receiver Alignment.” The instructions are to inject a signal using either an 
antenna or a signal generator, but I am not hearing anything (other than noise) 
with my antenna connected to either the ANTENNA or the RCV ANT connector. The 
radio has the 160 meter / receiver antenna kit installed, not modified, and 
previously working. It also has the KAT2 tuner kit, but that is not installed 
right now because the wires aren’t long enough to have it installed and to get 
to the tuning inductors. Do I need to temporarily re-install a jumper 
somewhere? Which antenna port should I be using? It is of course possible that 
I have messed up the RF signal path somehow, but first I need to figure out how 
the antenna connectors work when the radio is half taken apart!

Thanks.
Doug, W0UHU.
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Re: [Elecraft] Sherwood Engineering: Receiver comparison update!

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

> 
> HERE! it is
> 
> http://nc0b.com/table.html  
> 
> -73-  FrankKG9H
> kg9hfr...@gmail.com
> 

Amusing to see KX3 still up there at the top of the list with the big boys.

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] K2 parts shipment

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

FYI I just received an order for a K2 PLL kit that I placed in February. So 
things are moving!  :-)

Doug, W0UHU

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Re: [Elecraft] Internal battery options for K1 & K2

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I'm thinking 4 individual LiFePO4 cells in the K2, maybe 4 ea 32700 @ 6 Ah and 
1.3 lb,? LiFePO4 being less fraught than LiIon.? 
Lou W7HV

—

Have you considered non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries? Expensive, but they 
are available in every grocery store, last forever when not used, don’t leak 
(hopefully). Good for occasional field use, maybe?

Doug, W0UHU. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2.Unable to undertake VCO alignment.

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I am suffering from a similar problem in the midst of applying the various 
upgrades. My BFO test numbers are good,
4917.13 kHz
4912.16 kHz
4.97 kHz range

but when I try the VCO linearization process, I see 11090 flash and then get 
error 232. I have not checked the VFO against a reference frequency. I have 
tried two different crystals and several different L31 values.

My planned next step is to assemble the RF probe and see if I can figure out 
what is going on.

Doug, W0UHU.

> From: M Bak mailto:mark.adrian.ba...@gmail.com>>
> 
> Issue. Unable to undertake VCO alignment. 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 201, Issue 23

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

What I’m suggesting is that AFTER you have your ground rods and perimeter 
ground and bonding to house ground and arrestors on the coax, you add a way to 
automatically disconnect the wires that are locally connected to the radio. 
Basically the same as disconnecting the connectors but without wearing them out.

It would “only” be there to protect against induced current in the short runs 
of wire in the shack. I know lots of people who disconnect their antennas here 
in Colorado in the summer, but I bet that not many people disconnect everything 
every time they walk away from the radio.

Doug, W0UHU.

> Let's think about this. The difference of potential between cloud and 
> ground supports an arc of hundreds of feet. You are suggesting putting a 
> switch in line with a wire that connects to the radio to 'protect' it. 
> Won't the lightning just jump the open switch contacts?
> 
> 
> -- 
> 73,
> -de John NI0K

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Re: [Elecraft] Automatic lightning protection for radios

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

As I understand it, there should be a multi-level defense.

Direct bonding to ground rods for any towers or support poles, plus the 
standard “automatic” grounding for the antenna wires using those things with 
the little metal chips in a tube, plus lots of ground rods, plus bonding of the 
antenna ground system to the household electric ground. All done outside the 
building.

Household surge protector in the breaker box, plus perhaps two more in series 
with the radio power supply. Also on the cable connection to the house.

And then disconnect switches on everything that plugs into the radio, including 
coax, USB, Ethernet, headphones, keys, power, etc., because induced voltage 
within the house can also be a problem. 

So what would be nice would be a single box, controlled by the radio power 
switch, with relay disconnect of “anything you can think of that has a wire on 
it."

Doug, W0UHU
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 update path?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Hi Lou.

The dates of the updates are on the documentation on the Elecraft website. But 
as Don mentioned, the AtoB kit is the best guide. I will tell you from recent 
experience (still in progress) that if you try to install the updates in time 
sequential order, it will get confusing. There are several places where the 
updates overlap or contradict each other.

Doug, W0UHU.

> 
> On 1/3/2021 12:25 PM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:
>> Hey,?? I'm looking for a chronological list of K2 updates if such a thing 
>> exists.? A long while ago I remember somebody having compiled one.? I built 
>> my K2 and KPA100 ~20 years ago.? Early on, I kept it up to date.? I'd like 
>> to figure out what updates I don't have and which I might want to make...and 
>> what the availability is from Elecraft.
>> 
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 PLL problem on upgrade

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

> Ugh, I have my K2 upgrade changes made, but the PLL is not cooperating. This 
> is after all the A to B changes, including specifically the PLL temperature 
> compensation upgrade, which includes the new crystal X1 and the thermistor 
> board replacing the resistor pack.

Went back to original 10 uH for L31 and it’s fine now.

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] K2 PLL problem on upgrade

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Ugh, I have my K2 upgrade changes made, but the PLL is not cooperating. This is 
after all the A to B changes, including specifically the PLL temperature 
compensation upgrade, which includes the new crystal X1 and the thermistor 
board replacing the resistor pack.

The counter works fine, tested on the BFO. The reading on TP3 is around 125, 
jumping up and down, not anything like 12085. When I tap BAND+ and BAND- the 
reading goes up and down as expected.

I have checked carefully for short circuits.

What should I look at next?

Thanks.

Doug, W0UHU. 
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[Elecraft] Sunspots!?!?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

If, by some miracle, the sunspot count were to eventually jump up to a really 
high level, as was the case in around 2002, or even better in 1959, how would 
the various Elecraft receivers work? I’m specifically interested in the K1 and 
K2, but in general, is there a realistic problem with overloading of the front 
end? Or, assuming that you can hear signals from all over, will the 
selectivity, etc., be sufficient?

Doug, W0UHU.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 upgrade kit question about L31

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Orly? Next time I go to a party or bar I will try it! That will be in about 
2099 at the current rate, though.

In the meantime, what do I do?

Doug, W0UHU.

> On 22Nov, 2020, at 3:24 PM, Eric Norris  wrote:
> 
> I can confirm that Don's suggestion not only works, but is a great 
> ice-breaker at parties and bars :-)
> 
> 73 Eric WD6DBM

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[Elecraft] K2 upgrade kit question about L31

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I’m in the E850138 upgrade kit right now, and the included inductor L31 seems 
to be a bit off.

The value listed in the instructions is 12 uH, but the actual part is a blue 
ceramic inductor with stripes Brown-Brown-Black, which I read as 11 uH.

Does this seem like a packing mistake, and I should hold out for a 12 uH part? 
Or does it fall into the “close enough” category?

Thanks.

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] K2 upgrade kit sequence

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

For anyone considering updating an old K2, a small point that may not be clear in the instructions is that 
the K2ATOBKT is sort of a "top level" kit that "controls" the other mod kits. So instead 
of installing the various kits in their calendar order of publishing (2001, 2002, 2003, etc.), the way to do 
it is to get all the kits, then follow the instructions for the K2ATOBKT. Those instructions call out the 
other kits (e.g., "Now follow the instructions supplied with BFOMDKT") in the appropriate sequence. 


If you try to do them in calendar order (like I did), you will encounter confusion regarding 
"missing" parts and a couple of cases of "didn't I already change that???"



Somebody with access to the Elecraft web site might want to clarify this a bit 
on the kit ordering page.  :-)



Doug, W0UHU.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Fred KF9GX at FAR Circuits does have them, they're four bucks each plus 3.50 
for shipping up to ten. (Possibly more outside the US.) Thanks Don for pointing 
this out!



I believe it's the SMD version which is fun to assemble if you're a masochist! 
If someone gets around to ordering the parts to go along with the board, it 
would be great if they could post the list here. I believe the chip is obsolete 
but still available.



m...@farcircuits.net


Doug, W0UHU.



Message: 4
Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2020 13:32:47 -0400
From: Don Wilhelm 
To: k7...@aol.com, grazi...@roccon.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K1]CW Tune Led for Elecraft K2/K1
Message-ID: <8fc24f9f-1159-7d83-6c8a-0537bb48a...@embarqmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Despite what hat website says, there are no kits available. Tom Hammond
was SK several years ago, but his local radio club has preserved the
content on his website.
All the instructions are there, and I believe Tom used FAR Circuits for
his boards. An email to FAR Circuits may turn up a board for you.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/15/2020 12:59 PM, Jim H via Elecraft wrote:

Hi,It took awhile to find this site. You will have to dig though 
it.?http://www.mmccs.com/mmarc/n0ss/I hope this helps,73? ??Jim H??k7sss?In a 
message dated 10/15/2020 6:10:40 AM Pacific Standard Time, grazi...@roccon.com 
writes:
Hello,?someone out there still have the kit for CE Tune Led modification for 
the Elecraft K2 (or K1) ?Or any information where is possible to find it 
??Thanks a lot, Graziano IW2NOY / W2NOY



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Re: [Elecraft] Mod: Improving Temperature Stability of K2

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

It turns out that the 82 pF cap I was looking for in the BFOMDKT kit is 
actually in the K2ATOBKT kit. 

In addition to some parts consolidation, the Upgrading the Elecraft K2 to 
Revision B (K2ATOBKT) instructions seem to over-ride or modify some of the 
instructions in the earlier upgrade kits. Mostly in the area of the sequence of 
alignment. I will go through all the instructions now to get them synchronized. 
 :-)

Thanks, Doug W0UHU

—

> 
> Doug,
> 
> I have doubts that the toroid for L33 has been changed.
> 
> C174 should be 82pF - call support to get a proper capacitor.
> Do not remove turns from L33.
> 
> The BFO should come into range with those values.  Check the high and 
> low frequencies before doing anything else.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
---

> On 10/2/2020 10:27 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:
>> Hello K2 enthusiasts.
>> 
>> I?m installing the ?Improving Temperature Stability of the Elecraft K2 
>> Transceiver 11/15/2002 Rev. H? mod into my old radio. It?s going smoothly 
>> except for confusion on my part about one of the capacitors.
>> 
>> The original C174 is to be removed, it is marked ?331? which is 330 pF.
>> 
>> The replacement in the kit envelope is a ?390? 39 pF cap. But the 
>> instructions are confusing, because they say that the replacement should be 
>> 82 pF. And then, according to the instructions, if that turns out to not be 
>> enough, you can add more capacitance up to 200 pF at C174?or if desperate, 
>> add turns to the toroid L33.
>> 
>> My guess is that somewhere along the line the number of turns on L33 was 
>> changed to match a 39 pF cap, and the instructions fell behind. Does that 
>> make sense? Or should I hunt down an 82 pF cap?
>> 
> 
> 

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[Elecraft] Mod: Improving Temperature Stability of K2

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Hello K2 enthusiasts.

I’m installing the “Improving Temperature Stability of the Elecraft K2 
Transceiver 11/15/2002 Rev. H” mod into my old radio. It’s going smoothly 
except for confusion on my part about one of the capacitors.

The original C174 is to be removed, it is marked “331” which is 330 pF. 

The replacement in the kit envelope is a “390” 39 pF cap. But the instructions 
are confusing, because they say that the replacement should be 82 pF. And then, 
according to the instructions, if that turns out to not be enough, you can add 
more capacitance up to 200 pF at C174—or if desperate, add turns to the toroid 
L33. 

My guess is that somewhere along the line the number of turns on L33 was 
changed to match a 39 pF cap, and the instructions fell behind. Does that make 
sense? Or should I hunt down an 82 pF cap?

Thanks for your support!

Doug, W0UHU.


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[Elecraft] Wayback machine K2 SSB filter roll-off mod question

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I am trying to install the mod described in "Application Note Eliminating the 
Frequency Roll-off of the K2 SSB Filter.” Instructions are from March 2001, kit 
is new. Radio serial number 875 with SSB and 160 meters and antenna tuner and 
digital I/O options.

The capacitor that is to be removed as part of the mod, C180, was already 
removed when I got the radio. Solder indicates it was in there originally. But 
the additional parts (transistor, caps, resistor) of the modification are not 
installed. I don’t see anything unusual on the SSB board, and I don’t see 
anything that looks like an FCO in other places on the RF board. 

The application note says that one way (less desirable) to accomplish the 
filter change is to just screw out L34 a long way, but it doesn’t say anything 
about taking out C180. 

I’m wondering if there was another version of the mod, maybe that came out 
before the 2001 version of the upgrade kit, where you took out C180 and then 
adjusted inductor L34. It does appear to be screwed pretty far out.

I’m fine with putting in the parts using the instructions, just want to not 
screw up a working radio...

Thanks!

Doug, W0UHU.
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Re: [Elecraft] Overlapping K2 upgrades?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Hi Don.

Thanks for the info. I got all the upgrade kits currently listed on the 
Elecraft site, my radio is #875 so pretty old. There are also several lists of 
non-Elecraft “improvements” out there, most of which I am inclined to ignore.  
:-)

Doug.


> On 14Sep, 2020, at 10:43 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> If you have the most current upgrade kits, there is no overlap.  OTOH if you 
> have older upgrade kits such as the BFO upgrade, there were changes.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 9/14/2020 7:49 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:
>> I am starting to apply the accumulated Elecraft upgrades to an early K2. Do 
>> any of them overlap? Is there a preferred sequence I should follow?

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[Elecraft] Overlapping K2 upgrades?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

I am starting to apply the accumulated Elecraft upgrades to an early K2. Do any 
of them overlap? Is there a preferred sequence I should follow?

Doug, W0UHU. 
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[Elecraft] K6XX CW Indicator SMD Button LED Key installation

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Can anyone explain how the SMD LED is to be mounted in the key cap for the K1 
or K2 installation of the K6XX CW Indicator? I have an unbuilt kit (well, it is 
built now) and the key cap kit, but no instructions for how to install the LED. 
The key cap in the kit is drilled, and the LED appears to fit into the 
rectangular opening in the key cap so that the LED would shine out the hole. 
But then how do you connect to the LED?

There are also two SMD 3.3k ohm resistors in the key cap kit. I can visualize 
putting the LED in the cap, and then soldering the two resistors onto the LED 
into a U-shape, and then wires onto the ends of the resistors, I guess. That 
would give a resistor value comparable to the 6.8k ohms mentioned in the main 
part of the kit.

The main part of the kit also has a regular (large) LED that I could use with 
the “looking out an existing hole” method, but the keycap idea seems 
attractive—IF I can figure out how to do it!

Thanks.

Doug, w0uhu.
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[Elecraft] [K2] Serial number 00001

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

It would be great to see a picture of the circuit boards of that radio! 

Taking into account 20+ years of of ECOs and experimental mods, I am 
visualizing lots of jumpers and random capacitors…

Doug, w0uhu.


Message: 8
Date: Mon, 18 May 2020 12:43:36 -0700
From: Wayne Burdick mailto:n...@elecraft.com>>
To: George P Linehan III mailto:lineha...@me.com>>
Cc: Elecraft Reflector mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ISO Elecraft K2 QRP Or 100 watt.
Message-ID: <82084fd4-08de-404b-ae05-c29b57838...@elecraft.com 
>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

I have K2/10 S/N 1, but I'm not sure I want to part with it.

Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] K4???

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

They are definitely working. I just ordered some K2 parts and they responded 
promptly.

Doug, W0UHU


> On 15May, 2020, at 1:11 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 15 May 2020 11:52:10 -0400
> From: Tom Doligalski mailto:w...@mac.com>>
> To: Elecraft Reflector  >
> Cc: Elecraft Support mailto:supp...@elecraft.com>>
> Subject: [Elecraft] K4???
> Message-ID: <446a80eb-3818-46f5-bd31-3dcfcec39...@mac.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> It has been exactly 52 weeks since I placed an order for the K4, with a full 
> deposit. 
> 
> I truly understand all of the current difficulties, but would appreciate a 
> status report.
> 
> Tom W4KX
> 
> 

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[Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

[Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft]

Apologies in advance if this has been answered before. I can’t find it in the 
mailing list archives although surely it has come up already.

I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board for my 
40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization, but I’m 
slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts are 
available from Elecraft.

If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently given up 
on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the schematics and BOMs 
are already in the documentation, is there a source for the circuit board 
layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I suppose the board layout 
is copyrighted.

Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
collect the required parts if the boards were available.

Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability stream 
somehow…

Thanks.

Doug, W0UHU.
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