Re: [Elecraft] (ot) noise reduction resources

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Jim,

    Nice reference!

    kurtt WB9FMC

On 4/5/24 16:11, Jim Brown wrote:

On 4/5/2024 12:59 PM, Robert Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
The screen shot of the noise is posted on QRZ.com. This link will get 
you there.


https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/noise-reduction-resources.908913/ 



The thin vertical lines look like they're coming from some piece of 
electronics with a stable clock. The humps of noise around 21050 and 
above 21060 look like two different switch-mode power supplies.


A wider span and longer time waterfall are more useful for classifying 
the type of thing generating noise. Study the applications note in the 
link below.


http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] (ot) noise reduction resources

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Robert,

    Hum... About every 3 kc... Do they drift? I'd say that the 
"pull-the-plug" method of troubleshooting might yield interesting 
results. Maybe a washing machine or dryer or some other appliance. At 
least, that'd be my uneducated guess! Hope you find it!


    kurtt WB9FMC

On 4/5/24 14:59, Robert Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
The screen shot of the noise is posted on QRZ.com. This link will get 
you there.


https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/noise-reduction-resources.908913/ 



On 4/2/2024 20:36, Robert Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
Thanks to those answering my request for noise reduction 
sources/sites. Several pointed out the distinction between 
heterodynes originating in the receiver and noise external to the 
receiver. I was careless in the wording of my original post for which 
I apologize. Since a picture is worth many words, I'm included a 
screen shot of my panadapter tuned to 15m [see below] with the 
"noise" spikes clearly pictured. I have not tried the house shut down 
with the radio operating off a battery. Other time demands, but will 
do so shortly. I'm sure that will be informative. Interesting that 
the spikes occur only in the vicinity of 15m. They gradually diminish 
outside 15m until they are completely gone by 20.000 and 22.000 MHz.

...robert   KE2WY







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Re: [Elecraft] (ot) noise reduction resources

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Robert,

    May I suggest QRZ.com, where they /do/ allow images... {'-)

    k WB9FMC

On 4/2/24 15:36, Robert Strickland via Elecraft wrote:
Thanks to those answering my request for noise reduction 
sources/sites. Several pointed out the distinction between heterodynes 
originating in the receiver and noise external to the receiver. I was 
careless in the wording of my original post for which I apologize. 
Since a picture is worth many words, I'm included a screen shot of my 
panadapter tuned to 15m [see below] with the "noise" spikes clearly 
pictured. I have not tried the house shut down with the radio 
operating off a battery. Other time demands, but will do so shortly. 
I'm sure that will be informative. Interesting that the spikes occur 
only in the vicinity of 15m. They gradually diminish outside 15m until 
they are completely gone by 20.000 and 22.000 MHz.

...robert   KE2WY





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Re: [Elecraft] K4D for bargain price on eBay

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Petr,

    Holy guacamole Bat Man!

    kurtt WB9FMC

On 3/12/24 12:05, Petr Ourednik wrote:

Here is what I am talking about:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116082357701?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D829caffc5c83464ea264bd0e387c3fc4%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D116082357701%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DElecraft&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3A339f2a7c18e0a550b8bef368437e%7Cpageci%3A8d03138e-e092-11ee-85ee-76eb76f9a600%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage

73 - Petr, OK1RP
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
K3 #0778 | K2 # 4800 | K1 #1031 | KX3 # 0602
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Re: [Elecraft] K4D for bargain price on eBay

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Petr,

    Looking at the only listing for anything "K4," I found this 
. 
If that's what you're looking at, it's an "RFI Kit" for a K4, I don't 
think it includes the K4 itself! {'-)


    kurtt WB9FMC

On 3/12/24 06:55, Petr Ourednik wrote:

Folks,

upon emails received ...my god, it's not mine of course. :)
It's some seller from Italy.

73 - Petr, OK1RP
http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
K3 #0778 | K2 # 4800 | K1 #1031 | KX3 # 0602
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Bob, Doug, Et Al,

    Thanks again for the information and point-of-view! Yes, I'm aware 
of the pitfalls regarding "reading the numbers only..." I think I'll 
have to see if anyone near me has one of the radios that I'm interested 
in. Maybe visit to see how I like it... We'll see!


    k

On 3/10/22 01:48, turnbull wrote:

GM Bob,    A good post, which hopefully no one objects to.    It does not 
denegrate other xcvrs and it is on topic. The numbers tell the story.  Ah but 
some bells are nice.   Must admit I use the 'DX LIST' and like it.   Thank you 
Wayne and co.73 Doug EI2CNSent from my Galaxy
 Original message From: Bob McGraw  Date: 10/03/2022  02:02  (GMT+00:00) 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K4 Vs. Flex 6400 Before I posted my numbers, I did print the current 
Sherwood table.  I then went across each line for the FT-DX101D, the K3S, and the FLEX 6700.  I did compare 6 of the 10 
or so data lines. My reason for doing this has to do with someone that posted "the FT=101D has the best receiver 
performance numbers".  Well this is not exactly true.  The K3S is consistently better than the FT-DX101D and the 
FLEX 6700.  As to the K4D, it is much further down the list from the top 3 or 4.I fear many hams only look at the top 
line, brand and model and say that is best.   Clearly this is not true.  The top line is sorted by Dynamic Range Narrow 
spaced and that's all.    Certainly there are factors just as important or more important data points than that.Of 
course there is no way to judge whistles and bells.  I think more hams are enticed by whistles and  bells and know 
little what makes for a performance radio.   Secondly, factors as quality of the product, failures out of the box, 
service turn-a-round time, long term support, and etc.  all come into play in identifying a good radio.  To me that puts 
Elecraft at the top of the list, all facts considered.73Bob, K4TAX> Actually, the Yaesu FTDX101D/MP has the best 
receiver numbers on> Sherwood's list. That doesn't mean that it's the best radio for you,> but the Flex and the K4 
aren't "far and away" better receivers than> anything else in the amateur market. Ironically, Rob seems to 
really> like Icoms...__Elecraft mailing listHome: 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Mike,

    Of course, you're right about approaching it from the "eliminate 
the noise" point-of-view, but I live in a condo with a constant S-7 or 
so noise floor on 40 meters. No, it's not all from the surrounding 
units, but that 101D as seen in the videos I've watched, seems to do 
some amazing things! If it could do anything like I saw, it would be 
well worth the money. Ah, well! still mulling it over...


    k WB9FMC

On 3/7/22 10:25, Mike Fatchett wrote:
You are attacking your noise problem from the wrong direction. You 
should be eliminating the noise sources around you first. Software 
solutions do not remove the noise they mask it.    All noise blankers 
are different and I have found that they all handle some noises better 
than the other.  Under DX/contest crowded conditions received signals 
will become distorted.


Many people do not set up their Flex's properly.  It is a fairly 
complex radio and is not for everyone.  It is incredibly flexible and 
does some amazing things.  Not everyone wants those features and would 
prefer a conventional radio with knobs.


Good luck.

W0MU

On 3/6/2022 1:54 PM, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Morgan,

    Wow! That's a LOT of very useful information. While my situation 
doesn't include an amp, I like your comment about not being able to 
"kill" the Mercury III's. I'll keep that in mind.


    Well, thank you (and everyone else!) for these responses! Now I 
have some thinking to do and a decision to make. If the FTDX-101D 
really can help with my particular noise, that would be great... I'll 
have to really think about that! It means I'd have to sell the Flex 
(I'm already in the process of selling my vintage Drake equipment). 
We'll see!


    Thanks again!

    k WB9FMC

On 3/6/22 09:31, Morgan Bailey wrote:
For me it is all about the RX. What really stands out with the 
FTDX101 is the noise control that it offers. Each button on the rig 
actually does something. And, each something is significant. No 
other rig that I have operated has ever measured up to the 101. I 
really need that advantage of noise control because I live in a city 
on a city lot, with power lines on 3 sides and 3 transformers easily 
visible from my back or front yard. I have electrical noise and that 
coupled with band noise presents quite a problem. The 101 Rx is 
hands down the best. It makes SSB sound like FM. It makes the 
bandpass quiet until an actual signal shows up in it. No roar or 
harsh static is heard.  Once I figured out how I want stuff to 
sound, I hardly touch the buttons or knobs during a contest, other 
than the RIT (Clarifier on Yaesu) and Width controls. I consider 
myself an average contester. I live on a city lot with 68 linear 
feet for antennas. I cover all frequencies from 160 to 2 meters. I 
can run SO2R with ease running 2 radios on any of the 2 coax feeds 
to the switch. Each radio can run 1kw loafing and still not 
interfere with the other...sans other than the direct exact multiple 
harmonic, even still, it is only S7 to S9.


Yes I know everyone complains about the relays. I do not. I grew up 
with open frame relays that cerchunked like motor control stuff in 
an industrial shop. I wear headphones, W1 Inrad, and do not give a 
tinker's damned for QSK. Running SO2R takes QSK off the board. I 
suck at SO2R. Even when I am SO1R, which is 99% of the time, I still 
choose semi breakin and I relax not having to listen to the static 
and noise in between each character. Running 36 to 40 WPM pretty 
much negates QSK so why listen to the noise. Noise fatigue during a 
long contest will wear you out. I found that when I drove 
motorcycles, having loud pipes wore me down. I wore ear plugs all 
the time. Later I found that doing 1k miles a day an easy task only 
after I got rid of the pipes and switched to a much quieter, meaning 
silent exhaust. This again carries over to my experience with radios.


I love the 101 so much, that yes I have 2 of them for SO2R. But for 
Field day, I took one out and had to tear down the station to move 
the radio to Field Day. Well, yes it works well at Field Day but 
also so does an FTDX10. I believe the FTDX10 is the premier radio 
for Field Day conditions. I love it so much that I bought one just 
for Field Day. Again it is 95% of what the 101 is but mainly it does 
not have the VC tune which is a game changer. I feel that the DX10 
will be utilized for many DXpedions based on cost and receiver 
quality being able to be operated in an RF noisy environment with ease.


In closing, I love my FTDX101MP, FTDX101D and FTDX10. Taking them 
out of the box, turning them on, having them work the first time, 
what a joy it is having a finished product that performs like a 
miracle solution for my situation. DVRs that work, are easily run by 
N1MM, Keying memories the same, excellent parametric equalizers for 
transmit Audio, some of the highest average power out on ssb that I 
have ever seen, a great pan display, 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

the dollar. Transistor amps are all about cooling. If 
you can't keep them cool they are toast. In the end you pay for what 
you get. So your choices are limited. If you want a great tube amp and 
are willing to pay the dollars for 1500 key down then, ACOM or OM 
Power are the choices. If you want a transistor then there is only one 
that is stellar and that is the PGXL. If you want a middle of the road 
amp that is easy on the pocket then KM3KM produces the Mercury IIIs 
which will do a solid KW on CW and 699 watts on FT8 and easily 1200 
SSB. I own 2 of them and have not been able to kill them. They are 
simple and would fit in most any shack. NO they do not have all the 
bells and whistles that other higher dollar amps have but saying that, 
they have less to go wrong and cost far less. My choice for an amp for 
a modest station is either an ACOM 1000 or a Mercury IIIs. This is 
based on Dollar Per Watt and reliability.


HP 2 CU on the air!

73, Tnx for the Qs
Morgan NJ8M

BS + MS + $2.98 = COFFEE
Real Life Experience = Priceless, says the man who set his back yard 
on fire with a breadboard tuner loading a 160 meter inverted L with 
1000 watts. LOL



On Sat, Mar 5, 2022 at 9:49 PM Kurt Pawlikowski  wrote:

Scott,

 Well, yes: The "numbers" say one thing (or several things!),
but,
like I said, I'm in love with Elecraft... So, yes, I'm prejudiced! Of
course the "top radio (FT-DX101D)" is somewhat more expensive then
the
6400, and does seem to have some nice whistles and bells. Who knows?
Maybe I'll do a switch to Yaesu... {'-)

 k WB9FMC

On 3/5/22 18:46, Scott Manthe wrote:
> Actually, the Yaesu FTDX101D/MP has the best receiver numbers on
> Sherwood's list. That doesn't mean that it's the best radio for
you,
> but the Flex and the K4 aren't "far and away" better receivers than
> anything else in the amateur market. Ironically, Rob seems to
really
> like Icoms...
>
> 73,
    > Scott N9AA
>
>
>
> On 3/5/22 7:26 PM, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:
>> Rich, Et Al,
>>
>>     Thanks for the comments.
>>
>>     Yes, I'm aware that this might bring up some sort of issues
>> people have with the manufactures or personal experience. My
own is
>> that when I was ordering the radio, I could afford the 6400.
But what
>> I was hoping for, maybe in vain, is some information about how the
>> rigs perform comparatively. I know that either of them are
>> far-and-away better receivers than anything else on the amateur
market.
>>
>>     I my situation, I'm up against a lot of noise (live in a
condo).
>> The Flex seems to mitigate some of that. I was hoping that the K4
>> would be at least comparable.
>>
>>     CW delay: Well, I wired my key and headphones directly to the
>> Flex. My control PC would be way too slow to operate CW through it.
>>
>>     Well, I'm not sure which way to go at this time. I like the
Flex,
>> but I'm "in-love" with Elecraft! Just wish I had a more
experiential
>> based opinion to consider!
>>
>>     Thanks all for your comments! I'll keep my eye on this
thread...
>>
>>     k WB9FMC
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Dave,

    Sorry, my QRZ page is really dated! I'll have to take some time an 
update it! Currently, I'm in an antenna restricted situation (condo) and 
my antenna is a MFJ loop that I wheel out into the parking lot in order 
to operate.


    As far as the radio goes, it seems to work very respectfully. Makes 
me wish I had that vertical! But currently, my biggest problem is noise. 
This radio does seem to mitigate that to some degree. Of course, getting 
DXCC or any other award does require you spend much more time on the air 
than I currently do! {'-)


    k WB9FMC

On 3/6/22 08:49, David Bunte wrote:

Kurt -

If I may add a little more information… my friend with the ‘7851 and 
the K4D is the only person I have told until now… but I recently 
ordered a K4D.


Another friend near me has been using a Flex (6600 or 6400 I don’t 
recall) and it has been driving him nuts… rebooting in the middle of 
contests etc. he just picked up an Icom 7610 from another friend who 
got a K4D.


I also noted on your QRZ page that you have a vertical antenna. Some 
folks knock them but on less than 10 years using one I confirmed 9 
band DXCC, 308 countries and about 1900 toward DXCC Challenge.


Dave - K9FN

On Sun, Mar 6, 2022 at 9:17 AM Kurt Pawlikowski  wrote:

Dave,

 Very interesting and useful experiential info! It's much
appreciated.

 k WB9FMC

On 3/6/22 06:45, David Bunte wrote:
> Kurt -
>
> I am sending this just to you because I don't want to get into the
> middle of a battle over which radio is the best. We are
fortunate that
> there are a LOT of very fine radios from which we can choose.
Clearly
> only you can decide which radio is best for you. I am writing
because
> a very good friend of mine has owned some of the finest. He
currently
> has an IC-7851, which replaced the '7850 he used for many years. He
> bought an Elecraft K3 when they were first introduced. He had
that set
> up next to his '7850 and alternated between them. He thought
they were
> both excellent radios, but preferred the Icom... because the audio
> sounded better on receive. He and I are both CW operators so when
> evaluating rigs phone performance does not matter to us at
all... but
> I preferred his K3 because I use QSK, which was flawless with
the K3.
> About 11 years ago he loaned me his K3/P3 combination when I
installed
> an antenna at my new house. I had been operating mobile for 5 years
> and finally could operate from the comfort of my own shack. I liked
> the k3 so much that at Dayton in 2011 I was made the first
purchase of
> the weekend when I bought my K3 in kit form.
>
> I am still using that radio today. I have made several upgrades and
> have NEVER second-guessed my decision. I now also have the
KPA500 and
> KAT500.
>
> Now, to the heart of my email. My friend bought an FTDX101MP (I
think
> that is the nomenclature) and put it next to his '7851. He used one
> for a week, and then the other for a week... he alternated like
that
> for months. He was very impressed with the radio in many regards...
> but stopped using it because in a few small ways he felt it did not
> measure up to the Icom. The thing I most clearly remember him not
> liking was the noisy relays when operating semi-breakin on CW. I
> played with the radio for just a little bit and could not stand the
> relay noise. The relays in the '7851 don't bother him at all.
Because
> I use full QSK I could not stand the Yeasu and felt the Icom was
only
> a little better. Also... I lived just under 4 miles from him.
When he
> was on the air I could glance at my P3 and knew which radio he was
> using because the CW waveform was wider on the Yaesu... it was
pretty
> good but the Icom was clearly better. When he was using his Icom we
> could be chewing the rag 2 kHz from each other and not even notice
> that the other was on the band. When he used the Yaesu I had to
be at
> least 4 or 5 kHz away.
>
> I have recently moved to a new QTH and am now just under 1.5 miles
> from him. We had a rag chew last Monday on 40 meters. We
exchanged 40
> db over S9 reports, but at 2 kHz away from his new K4D I could have
> had a QSO... although I am pretty sure I could hear slight
evidence of
> when he was transmitting.
>
> I have no idea if any of my meanderings are helpful or not, but for
> me... a CW operator who loves QSK, I have a hard time considering
> anything other than Elecraft.
>
    > I wish you the very best as you consider what to do in the future.
>
> 73 de Dave - K9FN
>
>
 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Dave,

    Very interesting and useful experiential info! It's much appreciated.

    k WB9FMC

On 3/6/22 06:45, David Bunte wrote:

Kurt -

I am sending this just to you because I don't want to get into the 
middle of a battle over which radio is the best. We are fortunate that 
there are a LOT of very fine radios from which we can choose. Clearly 
only you can decide which radio is best for you. I am writing because 
a very good friend of mine has owned some of the finest. He currently 
has an IC-7851, which replaced the '7850 he used for many years. He 
bought an Elecraft K3 when they were first introduced. He had that set 
up next to his '7850 and alternated between them. He thought they were 
both excellent radios, but preferred the Icom... because the audio 
sounded better on receive. He and I are both CW operators so when 
evaluating rigs phone performance does not matter to us at all... but 
I preferred his K3 because I use QSK, which was flawless with the K3. 
About 11 years ago he loaned me his K3/P3 combination when I installed 
an antenna at my new house. I had been operating mobile for 5 years 
and finally could operate from the comfort of my own shack. I liked 
the k3 so much that at Dayton in 2011 I was made the first purchase of 
the weekend when I bought my K3 in kit form.


I am still using that radio today. I have made several upgrades and 
have NEVER second-guessed my decision. I now also have the KPA500 and 
KAT500.


Now, to the heart of my email. My friend bought an FTDX101MP (I think 
that is the nomenclature) and put it next to his '7851. He used one 
for a week, and then the other for a week... he alternated like that 
for months. He was very impressed with the radio in many regards... 
but stopped using it because in a few small ways he felt it did not 
measure up to the Icom. The thing I most clearly remember him not 
liking was the noisy relays when operating semi-breakin on CW. I 
played with the radio for just a little bit and could not stand the 
relay noise. The relays in the '7851 don't bother him at all. Because 
I use full QSK I could not stand the Yeasu and felt the Icom was only 
a little better. Also... I lived just under 4 miles from him. When he 
was on the air I could glance at my P3 and knew which radio he was 
using because the CW waveform was wider on the Yaesu... it was pretty 
good but the Icom was clearly better. When he was using his Icom we 
could be chewing the rag 2 kHz from each other and not even notice 
that the other was on the band. When he used the Yaesu I had to be at 
least 4 or 5 kHz away.


I have recently moved to a new QTH and am now just under 1.5 miles 
from him. We had a rag chew last Monday on 40 meters. We exchanged 40 
db over S9 reports, but at 2 kHz away from his new K4D I could have 
had a QSO... although I am pretty sure I could hear slight evidence of 
when he was transmitting.


I have no idea if any of my meanderings are helpful or not, but for 
me... a CW operator who loves QSK, I have a hard time considering 
anything other than Elecraft.


I wish you the very best as you consider what to do in the future.

73 de Dave - K9FN


On Sat, Mar 5, 2022 at 10:45 PM Kurt Pawlikowski  wrote:

Scott,

 Well, yes: The "numbers" say one thing (or several things!),
but,
like I said, I'm in love with Elecraft... So, yes, I'm prejudiced! Of
course the "top radio (FT-DX101D)" is somewhat more expensive then
the
6400, and does seem to have some nice whistles and bells. Who knows?
Maybe I'll do a switch to Yaesu... {'-)

 k WB9FMC

On 3/5/22 18:46, Scott Manthe wrote:
> Actually, the Yaesu FTDX101D/MP has the best receiver numbers on
> Sherwood's list. That doesn't mean that it's the best radio for
you,
> but the Flex and the K4 aren't "far and away" better receivers than
> anything else in the amateur market. Ironically, Rob seems to
really
> like Icoms...
>
> 73,
> Scott N9AA
>
>
>
> On 3/5/22 7:26 PM, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:
>> Rich, Et Al,
>>
>>     Thanks for the comments.
>>
>>     Yes, I'm aware that this might bring up some sort of issues
>> people have with the manufactures or personal experience. My
own is
>> that when I was ordering the radio, I could afford the 6400.
But what
>> I was hoping for, maybe in vain, is some information about how the
>> rigs perform comparatively. I know that either of them are
>> far-and-away better receivers than anything else on the amateur
market.
>>
>>     I my situation, I'm up against a lot of noise (live in a
condo).
>> The Flex seems to mitigate some of that. I was hoping that the K4
>> would be at least comparable.
>>
>>     CW delay: Well, I wired my 

Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Scott,

    Well, yes: The "numbers" say one thing (or several things!), but, 
like I said, I'm in love with Elecraft... So, yes, I'm prejudiced! Of 
course the "top radio (FT-DX101D)" is somewhat more expensive then the 
6400, and does seem to have some nice whistles and bells. Who knows? 
Maybe I'll do a switch to Yaesu... {'-)


    k WB9FMC

On 3/5/22 18:46, Scott Manthe wrote:
Actually, the Yaesu FTDX101D/MP has the best receiver numbers on 
Sherwood's list. That doesn't mean that it's the best radio for you, 
but the Flex and the K4 aren't "far and away" better receivers than 
anything else in the amateur market. Ironically, Rob seems to really 
like Icoms...


73,
Scott N9AA



On 3/5/22 7:26 PM, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Rich, Et Al,

    Thanks for the comments.

    Yes, I'm aware that this might bring up some sort of issues 
people have with the manufactures or personal experience. My own is 
that when I was ordering the radio, I could afford the 6400. But what 
I was hoping for, maybe in vain, is some information about how the 
rigs perform comparatively. I know that either of them are 
far-and-away better receivers than anything else on the amateur market.


    I my situation, I'm up against a lot of noise (live in a condo). 
The Flex seems to mitigate some of that. I was hoping that the K4 
would be at least comparable.


    CW delay: Well, I wired my key and headphones directly to the 
Flex. My control PC would be way too slow to operate CW through it.


    Well, I'm not sure which way to go at this time. I like the Flex, 
but I'm "in-love" with Elecraft! Just wish I had a more experiential 
based opinion to consider!


    Thanks all for your comments! I'll keep my eye on this thread...

    k WB9FMC





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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Rich, Et Al,

    Thanks for the comments.

    Yes, I'm aware that this might bring up some sort of issues people 
have with the manufactures or personal experience. My own is that when I 
was ordering the radio, I could afford the 6400. But what I was hoping 
for, maybe in vain, is some information about how the rigs perform 
comparatively. I know that either of them are far-and-away better 
receivers than anything else on the amateur market.


    I my situation, I'm up against a lot of noise (live in a condo). 
The Flex seems to mitigate some of that. I was hoping that the K4 would 
be at least comparable.


    CW delay: Well, I wired my key and headphones directly to the Flex. 
My control PC would be way too slow to operate CW through it.


    Well, I'm not sure which way to go at this time. I like the Flex, 
but I'm "in-love" with Elecraft! Just wish I had a more experiential 
based opinion to consider!


    Thanks all for your comments! I'll keep my eye on this thread...

    k WB9FMC


On 3/5/22 11:58, Rich Lim wrote:
Hi Kurt, I figured I would reply to you directly as this topic is 
controversial and may get some people’s undies in a bunch!. I have a 
flex 6480 and entire stable of Elecraft rigs from K-1 all the way to 
K3. My K4 is on order and hopefully will be here by the summer.  In my 
estimation, the flex 6400 is a great radio no doubt about it, receiver 
is excellent and as a plus I can work FT8 remotely from work!


The only thing I have bad to say about the flex is that being a CW OP, 
there is a big delay between keying the rig and transmit such that it 
throws me off dramatically in my sending. I’ve resorted to using an 
external keyer otherwise I really can’t work CW aiding the radio 
keyer. Furthermore, it may or may not be a downside to you, but using 
a computer to control all the rig functions to me is less than ideal. 
 I like knobs and a spinning VFO wheel, sure the flex has Maestro but 
who knows when and if that we’ll ever be released.


As far as performance, there is nothing that I could hear on the flex 
that I cannot hear on the K3. I’m contest situations, I think the K 
line has an advantage since you can add crystal filters in the 
superhet stage and prevent receiver overload from nearby stations. 
This would be most important if you are a CW or RTTY operator.


You may want to consider taking a listen to the latest Ham Radio 
Workbench Podcast. Rob Sherwood talks about his receiver list and 
specifically mentions the flex series of radios and Elecraft rigs. 
Bottom line is any of the top 20 radios on his list will work 
fantastic, only if you’re a heavy contester will you notice a difference.


I also has a Yaesu in FTDX 10 and while that radio has a great 
receiver in great DSP, the ergonomics are not great and CW is tedious 
as you cannot run for QSK. I think the bottom line is what you’re most 
comfortable with in terms of  their ergonomics is going to be the most 
important factor unless you are a big time contest operator.


Finally, I’m happy to support both of these companies as they are the 
only two remaining large American ham radio companies. If either go 
down the tube, who is going to push the big three to continue to 
innovate?. I hope this helps you a little bit, and if you wish to 
discuss it further more than happy to do so and feel free to email me 
directly. Take care!

Rich
KQ9L
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 
<https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS>


On Saturday, March 5, 2022, 12:15 AM, Kurt Pawlikowski 
 wrote:


Hi!

    I was wondering whether there is anyone who has done a
side-by-side
comparison between the K4 and the Flex 6400 or any other Flex
"direct to
digital" radio?

    Background: As it happens, I purchased a 6400, which I received
about 9 months ago. I use it with a computer, but I had ordered a
Maestro when I ordered the 6400. Unfortunately, the Maestro is
still on
back-order and will be until some time next year. When I checked with
Elecraft, they said the delay time for a K4 was about 6 months (no, I
won't hold them to that!). So, I'm wondering if it would be worth
jumping to the K4. Mind you, I'm not unhappy with the Flex and,
when I
ordered it I had considered a K4, but it was outside my budget at
that
time. I'm rethinking that decision. Also, I've been an Elecraft
fan for
quite some time. At any rate, I'd like some opinions from
experience and
the only ones I have seen were written before the K4 was
available. So,
a little help would be appreciated! Thanks!

    k WB9FMC

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[Elecraft] Elecraft K4 Vs. Flex 6400

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi!

    I was wondering whether there is anyone who has done a side-by-side 
comparison between the K4 and the Flex 6400 or any other Flex "direct to 
digital" radio?


    Background: As it happens, I purchased a 6400, which I received 
about 9 months ago. I use it with a computer, but I had ordered a 
Maestro when I ordered the 6400. Unfortunately, the Maestro is still on 
back-order and will be until some time next year. When I checked with 
Elecraft, they said the delay time for a K4 was about 6 months (no, I 
won't hold them to that!). So, I'm wondering if it would be worth 
jumping to the K4. Mind you, I'm not unhappy with the Flex and, when I 
ordered it I had considered a K4, but it was outside my budget at that 
time. I'm rethinking that decision. Also, I've been an Elecraft fan for 
quite some time. At any rate, I'd like some opinions from experience and 
the only ones I have seen were written before the K4 was available. So, 
a little help would be appreciated! Thanks!


    k WB9FMC

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Re: [Elecraft] What I need and meant

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Paul & Paul & Kenneth...

    Something you might consider is running Windows on a Raspberry Pi. 
(see this page 
). 
If it can run Windows 10, you could probably run a smaller version of 
Windows (NT, 7, maybe 3.1!). It would probably run on a small 12 volt 
battery for days... the only thing would be the mouse/screen. JAT (Just 
A Thought).


    kurtt WB9FMC

On 6/29/2021 22:13, Paul Stoetzer wrote:

That thing is a dead end running a five year old extremely low end
processor. Obviously N3FJP will run fine, but that’s about all it’ll be
tolerable for. The new Samsung Galaxy Book Go is probably the best choice
for a reasonably low cost and highly power efficient Windows 10 laptop
($349 and it’ll run for 18 hours on the internal battery).

73,

Paul, N8HM

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021 at 22:24 Paul Van Dyke  wrote:


Look at a "Fusion 5" tablet

Cheers Paul. KB9AVO

On Tue, Jun 29, 2021, 10:18 PM Kenneth Christiansen  wrote:


I want a Windows 10 computer that I can run the N3FJP logging program and
draws about the same current from a 12 volt solar charged battery as my
iPad does. I wish there was a way to be able to run N3FJP on my iPad.

That

is all I want so don’t wast the band width arguing about anything else .
73 and hope this time goes better.
Ken. W0CZ

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] HOA Crap

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

All:

    

    Now now boys! Be nice! {'-)

    Just to be clear, Amateur Radio IS a BIG TENT. Ever hear the term 
"appliance operator"? Yup! Some of us like the electronics and technical 
radio side of things and some the operation side... Maybe some use their 
license just for RC! Oh no! THEY don't even pick up a microphone or key!


    <\sarcastic font OFF>

    Okay! Seriously - have fun! {'-)

    kurtt WB9FMC

On 6/28/2021 23:45, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:

No!

Rent a station is NOT ham radio.  Argue all you want; but ham radio is 
about RADIO, even if it's just owning and using an HT because that's 
all you can manage.


You may as well log cell or Skype phone calls or EchoLink contacts (or 
IRLP, DMR, DStar etc) as use remote stations that are not yours; they 
have equal merit; none, zilch, nada, nil.  Only a few even have a 
radio involved; the rest is internet links; not ham radio.


EVERY entry in my log is from MY gear, a station assembled by ME 
(sometime with help building etc), a result of MY best efforts at THAT 
point in time.  It's a matter of pride and is a moral imperative to my 
standards.  Yes, it means I don't make EVERY contact or work every DX 
when I want; I have to wait for propagation, then hope I've done 
enough.  Yes, I've put money into equipment to own, use and maintain; 
not someone else's pocket to rent.  But I EARNED every log entry.


I pity you some; you've lost your compass.  Yes, you can get DXCC in 
an afternoon, moving sites to best apply propagation <>.  It's 
NOT your station, it's not worthy of your log; it has no value, 
because you purchased your log and awards instead of investing your 
time and efforts. It's your ego being stroked by your wallet.


Ditto using remote receivers to augment your own; your station can or 
cannot; it's THAT simple.


You have ZERO emergency preparedness without a radio; one of the 
tenets of ham radio.  You can't be prepared if you don't own a radio; 
if the systems are down, you have nothing.  An HT can at least 
saturate the neighborhood to check on others around you.


If you are so HOA bound that nothing outside can grow as an antenna 
(has NEVER been totally exclusive; stealthy has a market); build a 
club station where you can; drive there to operate it and log from 
that.  If it is an emergency and there IS still access, then use the 
remote if you have nothing else.  At least own and learn to use a 
portable radio (KX3, dual band HT, SOMETHING).


Yes, I operate a station remotely; MINE.  And if done well, no one 
knows where you really are at the time of the contact.


But you won't ever sell me that not owning a radio at all and to rent 
and operate remotely is even CLOSE to being a ham.  For pity's sake, 
hand the man an HT!


Harsh, perhaps.  But it's also one reason to escape the blasted HOA 
world too to make your own decisions. HOA is an infestation, a virus 
that allows others to make choices for you, even if you don't like 
their decisions.


/rant off; hot button; this arena gets old fast/

73,
Rick NK7I
More curmudgeonly every year it seems, ain't nuttin wrong with old 
school, it's just not as popular




On 6/28/2021 8:41 PM, William Levy wrote:

Gents,

Let me remind all of you in an HOA that you don't need to put up 
antennas.
You can join remote ham radio dot com and use giant antennas all from 
your

website. Much better stuff than most of us ever dreamed up HOA or not.

I live in NYC. I don't even have a Walkie. But I am full on remote HF
24/7/365.

It's a great world. Think of it as a resource. It's a NETWORK 
resource. And

you don't have to manage it.

Bill N2WL

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Re: [Elecraft] Gud place to sell rigs?

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Lou,

    I have had some good experiences buying amateur stuff via eBay, but 
I've not sold things through them. I've also had good experiences with 
eHam and Craig's List, but you are dealing with people directly there 
(let the buyer beware!). You might want to contact your local ham club 
for local places to sell your equipment. They may also have some good 
places in mind to sell.


    k WB9FMC

On 11/28/2020 6:02 PM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:

There's eBay of course, but anything better and more focused on high quality 
stuff?  I've been out of circulation for a while so don't know what other 
options there may be.  Not Elecraft, btw, as I'm not ever going to sell my K2, 
K1 and related items.

Lou W7HV
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Pricing Posted

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Lou,

    Forgive my ignorance: What's a K4/10-F? (I assume that "F" 
indicates "Factory Assembled").


    k WB9FMC

On 9/30/2020 10:18 PM, Lou W0FK wrote:

For orders placed prior to 12/31/2020
K4-F - $4,099.95
K4D-F - $4,999.95   
K4HD - TBD  
K4/10-F - $3,599.95

https://elecraft.com/products/k4-transceiver

Lou, W0FK



--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 -- Spectral subtraction noise reduction

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Grant,

    You peaked my interest. I attempted to find examples of spectral 
subtraction and only found talks about it (no audio examples). Would you 
happen to know where I might find some examples? Maybe comparing results 
between several noise reduction methods?


    Thanks!

    kurtt WB9FMC

On 9/10/2020 11:19 PM, Grant Youngman wrote:

I’ve recently been exploring quite a few of the many SDR receivers on KiwiSDR.  
One of the (many) features of this system is an option to select spectral 
subtraction NR.

I’m now really hyped about the fact that this will be available at some point 
on the K4.  It works exceptionally well.  So well, that I leave it turned on 
most of the time.  Often, stations you can barely copy down in the junk 
literally pop up out of the noise.  Don’t know if this will be available at 
initial shipment, but it’s certainly something to look forward to if not.  I’ve 
only tried it on AM and SSB at this point, so not sure about CW.

Just something else to whet the appetite for that eventual “you’re up” email 
from Elecraft sales …  :)

Grant NQ5T
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna tuners

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Ken: In some respects, a "matching device" at the base of the antenna 
_/is/_ a tuner! {'-) It accomplishes the same function... {'-) k WB9FMC


On 7/17/2020 6:34 PM, Ken Roberson via Elecraft wrote:

Antenna tuners

I never use an antenna tuner , on the MF and LF bands realmen use a scopematch 
at the

Output of the Power Amp and a matching device at the base ofthe vertical 
antenna – HI Hi.

73 Ken K5DNL

  


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Re: [Elecraft] "On second thought, I'll take the stairs."

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Wayne: Would you mind if I forwarded this to our ham newsletter editor 
for reprint? Thanks! k WB9FMC


On 7/12/2020 10:07 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

I have a friend about my age who got into amateur radio only a few years ago. 
Like many of us, he was enthusiastic about the technology. Intrigued with DX.

I showed him my station; we talked endlessly about gear. Later, I helped him 
put up a simple wire antenna.

Then, when his license arrived, he dove straight into FT8 and didn't look back. 
Within days, he'd worked all states, then DXCC. He'd bag a few rare ones over a 
light lunch, then pat his laptop on the back and congratulate his software app 
for its near-mythical ability to extract weak signals out of noise.

Within weeks, he'd mastered everything there was to know about this glorious 
new hobby.

Point. Click.

In this new world order, those of us who took the longer, slower path to 
ionospheric enlightenment -- and who still occasionally enjoy making waves by 
hand -- often fail to explain why.

I had failed to explain it to my friend. Even as hints of his boredom crept in, 
creating an opening, the best argument I'd made for trying CW was that he could 
do it without a computer. Coming in a weak second was the notion that CW was 
the original digital mode. For obvious reasons, I didn't bother with the 
classic argument about CW's signal-to-noise advantage over SSB.

I had all but given up.

Then, in a moment of delayed clarity, I decided on a different approach. I 
invited him to a weekday brunch. A bit of an escape. He willingly took the bait.

On the appointed day, arriving at his workplace, I bypassed the lobby's 
glistening elevators and climbed the four flights of stairs to his office. I 
insisted we take the stairs down, too.

"Why?" he asked. "And how'd you get up here so fast?"

I pointed out that I always chose stairs, when possible. That's why I wasn't 
out of breath. We hustled down, jockeying for position, and emerged on the 
ground floor invigorated by the effort.

"So, where are we going?" he asked. We'd been to every overrated twenty-dollar 
burger venue at least twice.

I replied that we'd be going someplace we'd never tried. My kitchen.

When we arrived, I put him to work chopping onions and broccoli and squeezing 
oranges while I whipped eggs into a froth and grated Swiss cheese. We ate our 
omelettes outside, in full sun and a cool breeze.

"What's for desert?" he asked. "Isn't there a frozen yogurt place a two-minute drive 
from here?"

I had something else in mind. Back in the kitchen, I handed him a water bottle, 
then strapped on a small pack I'd prepared earlier.

We walked a mile or so through my neighborhood, admiring the houses' varied 
architecture, ending up (as planned) at a local park festooned with blackberry 
bushes. The most accessible branches had been picked clean, but with teamwork 
and persistence we were able to gather several large handfuls of fat, ripe 
berries, which we devoured on the spot.

We'd been poked and scratched but didn't care.

"Doesn't brunch usually end with champagne?" he wondered aloud, admiring his 
wounds.

Not this time. I pulled out two bottles of craft beer that I'd obtained from a 
neighbor in trade for repairing his ancient home stereo. Carlos had spent years 
crafting an American pilsner to die for, sweating every detail, including 
iconic, hand-painted labels.

My friend accepted the bottle, then tried in vain to remove the cap. Not a 
twist-off.

"Opener?" he said.

I handed him a small pocket knife, an antique without specialty blades. He soon 
discovered it could not be used to remove the cap directly. He looked at me 
with a bemused expression, no doubt wondering what I had up my sleeve this time.

I pointed out that we were surrounded by white oaks, a species known for its 
hard wood. He got the message, smiled, and began hunting. Within seconds he'd 
collected a small fallen branch. I watched as he used the knife to fashion a 
few inches of it into a passable bottle opener. We popped the caps, toasted his 
new-found skill, and traded stories of our misspent youths.

"Oh, one more thing," I said.

I pulled a KX2 out of my pack, along with two lengths of wire. Of course he 
knew everything there was to know about Elecraft, and me, so he wasn't 
surprised when I also pulled out the rig's attachable keyer paddle. We threw 
one wire in the closest tree and laid the other on the ground.

He didn't have to ask whether I'd brought a laptop.

We listened to CW signals up and down 20 meters, which was open to Europe at 
the time. As he tuned in each station, I copied for him using pencil and paper. 
He'd learned Morse code, but only at very slow speeds.

After making a contact, I set the internal keyer speed to 10 words per minute 
and dialed power output to zero, for practice purposes, then showed him how to 
use the paddle. He smiled as he got the hang of it. Sending the full alphabet 
was a challenge, but he got there. The KX2 

Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100: PA Key Delay

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Bill, Et Al,

    No... Will give that a try... k WB9FMC

On 6/8/2020 10:53 AM, Nr4c wrote:

Have you considered the VOX delay?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill



On Jun 8, 2020, at 10:49 AM, Kurt Pawlikowski  wrote:

Hi!

 I'm getting ready for Field Day. I use a circular polarized antenna and a device to 
switch polarization between transmit and receive. When sending code, the results in the 
relays changing with every dit and dah... I was wondering if there is an adjustment to 
increase the "release" time for this output so it would not switch back to the 
receive state immediately. I was contemplating a small circuit to accomplish this, but 
thought there might be a built-in solution. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 kurtt WB9FMC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 working on motorboats - possible

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Peter,

    In general, any vertical works lots better with more radials. As 
fresh water is a fairly poor conductor, the more the merrier! 
Unfortunately, because most boats are wooden/fiberglass, what you can 
add helps. I don't know if they have to be 1/4 wavelength (I've read yes 
and some say at least 0.20 wavelength). For HF, this would be some 
serious lengths for most boats! I expect you'd have to load them similar 
to the vertical element, but I haven't read anything regarding loading 
radials: It's just a guess. I suppose one could attempt to replicate, to 
some extent, a solid ground plane with foil or some other conductor 
(maybe chicken wire?). It would seem a lot of work (and probably is!). 
If you're insistent on a vertical, it's a narrow field of variability. 
Some of the portable antenna's can make loaded dipoles or verticals, 
which would operate fairly well without a ground plane. Another option 
might be a magnetic loop (which doesn't care much about "ground" per se. 
It is affected by near-by conductors, tunes very narrowly, and is big 
(compared to a mobile vertical). So, whatever you choose, it's all some 
sort of compromise.


    kurtt WB9FMC

On 6/8/2020 3:47 PM, Peter Kaletsch wrote:

Hello fellows;

You are my last hope as I cannot imagine that I am the only one in the world 
who wants to try that.

For many months I have been trying in vain to get tips on how to operate a K3 
well on a small 13 meter motor yacht. I am talking about fresh water usage 
(Lake Garda in Italy), not salt water, and of a GFK built boat.

A dipole is eliminated, it is not a sailing boat. I thought of using a Tarheel 
Antenna, but the manufacturer advised me against it.

So normal, shortened mobile antennas, mounted on the device carrier, where also 
the antenna for marine radio is located, should point the way ...?

But how do I get a reasonably effective earth? I read a lot of negative things 
about ground plates - fast growth, the hull has to be pierced.

I have already considered laying radials from the antenna base below deck in 
the invisible area, but will this work...?

I am very grateful for every tip and every help - also to 
pkalet...@kaletsch-gmbh.de

Thanks in advance

Peter - DL1MDZ



Peter Kaletsch GmbH | Fürstenrieder Straße 275 | 81377 München | Tel: +49 (0) 
89 / 89 60 93 - 0 | Fax: +49 (0) 89 / 89 60 93 - 99 | i...@kaletsch-gmbh.de | 
Handelsregisternummer HRB 108093 | Amtsgericht Muenchen | Steuer-Nr: 
143/170/40017 | Geschäftsführer: Peter Kaletsch | Sitz der Gesellschaft: 
München |
Hinweis / reference:
Die Inhalte dieser Nachricht dürfen nur für die beabsichtigten Zwecke verwendet 
werden. The content of this Message may only be used for the intended purposes.
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[Elecraft] KXPA100: PA Key Delay

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi!

    I'm getting ready for Field Day. I use a circular polarized antenna 
and a device to switch polarization between transmit and receive. When 
sending code, the results in the relays changing with every dit and 
dah... I was wondering if there is an adjustment to increase the 
"release" time for this output so it would not switch back to the 
receive state immediately. I was contemplating a small circuit to 
accomplish this, but thought there might be a built-in solution. Any 
thoughts? Thanks!


    kurtt WB9FMC

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Re: [Elecraft] Reset Third-Hand KX3

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Tommy,

    6146? 807? What kind of code is that? {'-)

    No, I know what they are! I was just musing about the differences 
between the old tube rigs and the modern solid state SDR's... Where an 
an old tube rig can get struck by lightning and keep ticking, many of 
the new rigs can barely take a static discharge. Of course, most of the 
new rigs can be dropped down a flight of stairs and sustain only 
cosmetic damage! I am always amazed when seeing old Field Day pictures 
where they were operating several hundred pounds of "radio" in the 
field! And those were the days when keeping one hand in your pocket 
really meant something! Ah! The old "foot warmers" were nice during 
Winter, but just exacerbated things during the grueling dog days of Summer!


    {'-)

    kurtt WB9FMC

On 5/22/2020 9:01 AM, Tommy Judson via Elecraft wrote:

Hi,

Significant phrase - glutton for punishment - written by a respondent.   Being 
an engineer I’ve sometimes regretted taking on a project or two because of 
thinking I could fix just about anything.

The manuals will be with the radio so will dig through them for a guide when 
the package arrives before doing anything else.  Looked on the company website 
and there seems to be complete info on each of their products too.  Also have 
Cady’s book The Elecraft KX Line that I’ve been reading and find it is chock 
full of good info.

Think I’m in for an awakening - the last rig or two I owned had 6146 finals 
with 807 modulators driving a pair of 500 Z's in a hot box.  The KX 3 is most 
likely about the same size as one of those tubes.

Thank you to those who replied to my first post.

73, Tommy
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 Shipping Delay

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

"By definition, the number of bugs in a program is infinite."

    Regards,

    kurtt, WB9FMC

    Kurt Pawlikowski
    The Pinrod Corporation
    ku...@pinrod.com
    (773) 284-9500
    http://pinrod.com

On 1/16/2020 2:19 PM, Gwen Patton wrote:

Murphy's Law of Cybernetic Entomology says: "There's always one more bug."
So "bug-free" is impossible.

Gwen, NG3P

On Thu, Jan 16, 2020 at 2:50 PM rich hurd WC3T  wrote:


In the computer programming world, it's "bug free, cheap, or on time."  :)


On Thu, Jan 16, 2020 at 2:25 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:


"Good, Fast, Cheap"** ... choose two.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

**Said to a Marine BG.  He chose Good & Cheap.  We declined to bid

On 1/15/2020 8:18 PM, Terry Brown wrote:

I am one of those far down the list in the first shipping group.  When

I

read the notice from Eric and Wayne, about the new shipment dates for the
K4,  I was reminded of a comment from my builder a year and a half ago

when

our new house was about 4 months behind schedule.

He said, we could have finished your house on time but it would have

been finished by subcontractors who don’t provide the quality we insist
on.  Besides, and this is the important part regarding the K4, he said,

“ I

know you are frustrated,  but the day you move in and can begin to enjoy
the quality of your home as long as you live here, the delay won’t mean
anything.”

He was absolutely right.   When I walk around my new home and look at

how well it’s made and the incredible quality of the finish work, the

delay

is meaningless.   We all who are anxiously awaiting the K4, will feel the
same way once it arrives at our homes.Besides, it will be a better

more

refined radio in May than it would have been if shipped now.

73,

Terry, N7TB


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--
72,
Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737
Northampton County RACES, EPA-ARRL Public Information Officer for Scouting
Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75.288988  (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid:
*FN20is*
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - Strange Behaviour

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Brian,

    We were in a high noise area and yes, I had the NB on. {'-) I 
suspect that was the "muffled" artifact I was getting, but the "ghost" 
signal, I'm not so sure about! {'-) All I know is that I'd call on one 
of them, and they'd usually answer. Sorry I didn't pay any closer 
attention to the spacing and such. Might be a clue for someone 
attempting to eliminate the issue!


    k WB9FMC


On 6/27/2018 10:40 AM, Brian Hunt wrote:

Did you have the NB on?  I've noticed on my KX2 (similar h/w and firmware) that 
using the NB with very strong signals close by will create all sorts of 
artifacts like CW being sent using a highly damped bell. Turn off the NB and 
it's clean as a whistle. HTH

73,
Brian. k0DTJ


Our setup was in, unfortunately, a fairly high noise area. I was working 20 CW. The 
noise level was S3, with times reaching S6. I believe, "normal" would be closer 
to S1. And, of course, lots of signals all over the board signal strength wise. Many of 
them very strong (10 to 20 over 9!).

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[Elecraft] KX3 - Strange Behaviour

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Good morning!

    Sorry for the length of this post: Its a bit complex and I needed 
to let people know that I *think* I know what I'm talking about! {'-) k


    Well, while Field Day 2018 is now in the past, I am having some 
concerns about my KX3. This is a little hard to explain, but here goes!


    Our setup was in, unfortunately, a fairly high noise area. I was 
working 20 CW. The noise level was S3, with times reaching S6. I 
believe, "normal" would be closer to S1. And, of course, lots of signals 
all over the board signal strength wise. Many of them very strong (10 to 
20 over 9!). Also note that this unit has the crystal filters and ATU. I 
also have the KPA100, which also has the built in ATU. I upgraded the 
KX3 software to the latest just last week in preparation for FD. Okay, 
that's the setup. Here are my observations:


    First, my KX3 has "some" opposite side band bleed through. On 20 
CW, I believe it is using the equivalent of lower side band (as you tune 
from higher to lower frequency, the CW notes go from "high" to "low"). 
As you pass through zero beat, on reasonably strong signals, a "ghost" 
signal can be heard going from "low" to "high", but it is very 
attenuated. This is what I consider "normal" (or perhaps "average") 
operation for a KX3 as configured. But, there's more...


    I started to notice that, as I was tuning "down" the band (from 
higher frequency to lower), there were several "artifacts" (for lack of 
a better word). First, the several things I noticed were "in sync" with 
the expected behavior of pitching from "higher" to "lower" as I tune the 
Rx frequency from "higher" to "lower". So, as far as I understand, 
/_not_/ opposite side-band "bleed-through." The first artifact seemed to 
mimic a signal, but it had a distinct difference, which I'm at a bit of 
a loss to describe. Let's just say "muffled," though that's not 
accurate. If I remember correctly, it was always a strong signal and 
seemed to shift with changing frequency properly. I could recognize it, 
so at least I knew it and could ignore it. Now for the coup d'etat...


    I also noticed that I was apparently receiving "ghost" signals that 
were about 500 (or so) Hz between. These signals seemed identical to 
each other. With the large number of signals on the bands, my bandwidth 
was narrow - between the tightest (I believe 50 Hz?) and a maybe 1 k. 
This is the artifact that bothers me. I have no idea which one was the 
"real" signal (like something from the old "What's My Line" TV show!). 
So, here's my question: Has anyone noticed something like this before? 
Is this some sort of configuration issue or is it hardware, or maybe 
it's just me (!). I don't know if I can reproduce it, so...


    Anyway, any input is appreciate it. Thanks!

    kurtt,

    WB9FMC

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[Elecraft] Test... 1, 2, 3...

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hum...

    Sent something on Monday that never seemed to make it to the 
reflector...



    kurtt

    WB9FMC
    2017 Hamfesters Hamfest Co-Chair
    http:\\ham-ham.org
    (773) 284-9500


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Re: [Elecraft] OT - Gaffers Tape

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Harry,

I've found that, for most applications, painter's tape works well. 
While not the strength of gaffer's tape (it "rates" about the same as 
masking tape), a few extra layers, when needed, usually works. The 
advantage is that it's more readily available and costs less. It doesn't 
seem to leave any residue, even after having been in place for weeks. I 
don't know if it's water-proof, but it doesn't disintegrate when wet 
either. Just an alternative to consider.



Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com

On 5/8/2017 10:55 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

In applications where I don't want to leave any tape residue, instead of duct 
tape I use gaffers tape.
It's something I use in photography but it's finding a place in my radio bag.
It holds about the same as duct tape but is easier to rip into strips and 
leaves less if any residue.
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[Elecraft] 2015 Hamfesters Hamfest (South Chicago)

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi!

First, I'd like to invite you to our 81st annual Hamfest. (see 
http://ham-ham.org for more details).


I've made some efforts to contact Amateur Radio manufactures in an 
attempt to put together a Radio Brag presentation for our Hamfest (an 
opportunity to present their radios to potential customers). Because our 
Hamfest wouldn't warrant the manufactures to come themselves, I had 
asked if they had any local hams willing to come and tells us their 
experience with their own radio. The response has been slow. So, I'm 
asking if their is anyone willing to give a live review of their newer 
Elecraft radio. Nothing fancy, just what you like about the radio and 
your experiences with it and answer any questions. If we can muster at 
least three manufactures radio-users to commit, we'll set it up. Here's 
the deal:


The presenter gets free admission (a single stub ticket). They'll 
have a table (which we'd like manned between 10AM and noon). We'll 
supply 115 VAC, a sound system, dummy load and workable antenna (for the 
presentation portion of the show). You have to supply the radio! We hope 
to get people interested in Elecraft (and other manufactures) to have an 
opportunity to see and hear what Elecraft is all about.


Any takers?

kurtt

WB9FMC
2015 Hamfesters Hamfest Chairman
Looking for my replacement since 2014!
http:\\ham-ham.org
(773) 284-9500


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[Elecraft] KX3 And The Dominant Knob

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi,

Looking toward Field Day... Is there a way to use the KX3 so that 
the transmit frequency is locked, and the receive frequency can be 
adjusted by the larger knob? I know I can lock the frequency and use  
RIT, but then I have to tune with the smaller knob. Also, should it 
accidentally be set to OFS, I am then adjusting the transmit frequency.


Any thoughts?

Thanks!

kurtt

WB9FMC
2015 Hamfesters Hamfest Chairman
Looking for my replacement since 2014!
http:\\ham-ham.org
(773) 284-9500
Live near Chicago? Come to our Hamfest on 2 August 2015!

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] MFJ-1786 Antenna

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Dave,

I recently purchased a used 40-15 meter version (MFJ-1788). I live 
in a first floor condo and really have no place to permanently mount it, 
so I use it on either a short 3 foot stand or extend it to 10 feet with 
my car stabilizing the base. I've had this antenna for about 6 months 
now. So, here are my impressions...


 First, if you like to jump around the band or bands, don't be in 
too much of a hurry! It takes a little while to get used to operating 
the antenna. While it's not too bad, you can't just spin the dial and 
start transmitting. The practical bandwidth of the antenna on 40 meters 
is about 10 kHz. You can receive degraded signals to maybe 30 kHz, but 
they get weaker and weaker the further you are from the currently tuned 
frequency. The bandwidth seems to get narrower as the frequency 
increases. This is just the nature of the beast.


Performance is very good. It appears to be on par with a full 
dipole, but I don't have one to compare it to, so it's all subjective. 
And, since my installation is very low (3 or 10 feet), my contacts tend 
to be in the first, second or third skip zones. That is, it's probably a 
fairly high angle of radiation. I have not tried the antenna in 
horizontal mode, but maybe I will some time.


In my particular case, I have a very noisy mercury vapor lamp about 
20 feet from the antenna that is dieing. When it's cycling, it 
obliterates most of the signals with it's own 20 over 9 signal. This 
simply swamps the KX-3's noise blanker. It is for this reason that I've 
been in the market for the MFJ-1026. But, in the mean-time, I discovered 
that my Drake R4-C noise blanker virtually eliminates it. I've been 
toying with the idea of a better radio (K3 or Flex) that might have 
enough processing power to nullify the noise. Of course, that's a 
financial consideration!


At any rate, it means that, between tuning up the Drake R4-C, TX-4C 
AND the MFJ-1788, it takes me several minutes to adjust to any new 
frequency. Once I get in the sweet-spot, I'm not too likely to go very 
far from where I am. Yes, using the KX-3 (during the day!) works well, 
but you need to keep the ATU off as it defeats tuning the antenna. I 
have even used this antenna sitting on the ground surrounded by metal 
shelves and a parked car with a fair amount of success. Again, I have no 
basis for comparison, so no objective data.


Well, I hope that helps!

kurtt

WB9FMC
2015 Hamfesters Hamfest Chairman
Looking for my replacement since 2014!
http:\\ham-ham.org

On 9/6/2014 20:50, David Guernsey via Elecraft wrote:

Does anyone have any experience using a MFJ-1786 with a K3? I live in a 2nd 
floor condo in a 5 story brick building. Considering a magnetic loop on my 
balcony to get back up on HF.
  
73 de Dave KJ6CBS

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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 not making antenna connection

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Josh,

Unfortunately, I'm not familiar enough with the KXPA100 to know if, 
when  bypassing the unit internally, there is DC continuity between the 
input and output. If there is (I suspect so), you should be able to 
measure between them with a regular ohm meter. While not 100% 
definitive, if it fails this test (again, assuming DC continuity), that 
would be a major indicator of some connection problem.


Hope that helps!


kurtt WB9FMC
2015 Hamfesters Hamfest Chairman
Looking for my replacement since 2014!
http:\\ham-ham.org

On 9/3/2014 03:24, Josh Lehan wrote:

Hi there!

I assembled my KXPA100 (with ATU) recently, serial number 0595.
Unfortunately, it isn't working.  The link to the KX3 works great
(rather slick, everything was instantly recognized), but the KXPA100 is
not making any antenna connection cleanly.  KX3 is properly configured
to link with the KXPA100.

I heard nothing at all, on any band, as if the antenna wasn't connected
at all.  I tried initiating an ATU tuning cycle, only to see a SWR fault
on the KXPA100 almost instantly, so I stopped that rather quickly.  The
SWR wouldn't improve below 32.0-1 (terrible).

I opened it up again and removed then reconnected the tricky little TMP
connectors, and that helped a little.  Using needlenose pliers made all
the difference.  I am now pretty confident I have the TMP connectors
fully inserted (they weren't, earlier).  Now, I can hear stations very
faintly, S0 at most (not enough to light up any signal bars on the KX3).
  This is still very bad, because when bypassing the KXPA100 by using a
barrel connector to connect the KX3 to the antenna directly (for
testing), it's loud and clear, around S5-S9, which is normal for my antenna.

I can transmit just fine, using the KX3 and its built-in ATU, without
the KXPA100, so I can rule out anything else in my setup that might be
causing a problem.  Both antenna and dummy load normally work great.
Ruled out cables by using barrel connector to join two cables together
directly (cutting the KXPA100 out of the circuit) and that also worked
great.  I just can't get a good connection when going through the KXPA100.

Now, I'm at a loss what to do.  I think there might be a fault with the
ATU connection internally of the KXPA100.  It was straightforward to put
it together, though, I don't think I made any mistakes there, but
probably will disassemble it all and try again.

Switching between antenna 1 and antenna 2 makes an audible difference in
the noise level, so I know that works.  However, the ATU switch on the
KXPA100 doesn't seem to make a difference at all, there is no difference
in noise level between bypass/manual/auto.  Shouldn't there be an
audible difference here?  There also is no difference when KXPA100 is
powered off vs. on, which seems strange to me.  Same SWR fault happens
instantly when trying to tune with ATU, or doing any transmission for
that matter.

What should be my next step in troubleshooting?

Thanks!

Josh
K6JSH
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPA100 not making antenna connection

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Josh,

Looking at the owner's manual, page 41, there is a simplified 
schematic. In theory, if the unit is in bypass, it should be a direct 
in to out connection. There could still be some other 
considerations, but I would suspect that's the way it is. Until someone 
from Elecraft says otherwise or someone with a working unit can measure 
theirs to disprove of prove the idea, I would operate under that 
assumption. You might also want to give the good folks at Elecraft a 
call about your problem. Maybe it has a very simple solution.


Hope you get it operational soon!


kurtt WB9FMC
2015 Hamfesters Hamfest Chairman
Looking for my replacement since 2014!
http:\\ham-ham.org

On 9/3/2014 16:41, Josh Lehan wrote:

On 09/03/2014 03:17 AM, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Josh,

 Unfortunately, I'm not familiar enough with the KXPA100 to know if,
when  bypassing the unit internally, there is DC continuity between the
input and output. If there is (I suspect so), you should be able to
measure between them with a regular ohm meter. While not 100%
definitive, if it fails this test (again, assuming DC continuity), that
would be a major indicator of some connection problem.

Good advice.  I used a multimeter to measure for continuity.  Yikes, the
tip and the ring of my RX IN jack appear to be shorted to each other,
and also shorted to ground!  Is that normal?

I'm going to open it up and check the wires carefully on the panel where
the jacks are, hopefully nothing is touching.

I've heard that measuring antenna stuff at DC can be an illusion, as
some things are supposed to appear open or appear shorted at DC, as
they're designed to carry RF, not DC.  My meter can only measure
resistance at DC, it can't do anything fancier (no capacitance or
inductance, no measuring resistance at AC/RF, no impedance or reactance).

Also, when the antenna is selected, the tip and the ring of ANT 1 (or
ANT 2 if selected) also appear to be shorted to each other and to
ground.  The KXPA100 isolates the antenna that is *not* selected: its
ring is still shorted to ground, but its tip has no connection.

Josh
K6JSH



 Hope that helps!


 kurtt WB9FMC
 2015 Hamfesters Hamfest Chairman
 Looking for my replacement since 2014!
 http:\\ham-ham.org

On 9/3/2014 03:24, Josh Lehan wrote:

Hi there!

I assembled my KXPA100 (with ATU) recently, serial number 0595.
Unfortunately, it isn't working.  The link to the KX3 works great
(rather slick, everything was instantly recognized), but the KXPA100 is
not making any antenna connection cleanly.  KX3 is properly configured
to link with the KXPA100.

I heard nothing at all, on any band, as if the antenna wasn't connected
at all.  I tried initiating an ATU tuning cycle, only to see a SWR fault
on the KXPA100 almost instantly, so I stopped that rather quickly.  The
SWR wouldn't improve below 32.0-1 (terrible).

I opened it up again and removed then reconnected the tricky little TMP
connectors, and that helped a little.  Using needlenose pliers made all
the difference.  I am now pretty confident I have the TMP connectors
fully inserted (they weren't, earlier).  Now, I can hear stations very
faintly, S0 at most (not enough to light up any signal bars on the KX3).
   This is still very bad, because when bypassing the KXPA100 by using a
barrel connector to connect the KX3 to the antenna directly (for
testing), it's loud and clear, around S5-S9, which is normal for my
antenna.

I can transmit just fine, using the KX3 and its built-in ATU, without
the KXPA100, so I can rule out anything else in my setup that might be
causing a problem.  Both antenna and dummy load normally work great.
Ruled out cables by using barrel connector to join two cables together
directly (cutting the KXPA100 out of the circuit) and that also worked
great.  I just can't get a good connection when going through the
KXPA100.

Now, I'm at a loss what to do.  I think there might be a fault with the
ATU connection internally of the KXPA100.  It was straightforward to put
it together, though, I don't think I made any mistakes there, but
probably will disassemble it all and try again.

Switching between antenna 1 and antenna 2 makes an audible difference in
the noise level, so I know that works.  However, the ATU switch on the
KXPA100 doesn't seem to make a difference at all, there is no difference
in noise level between bypass/manual/auto.  Shouldn't there be an
audible difference here?  There also is no difference when KXPA100 is
powered off vs. on, which seems strange to me.  Same SWR fault happens
instantly when trying to tune with ATU, or doing any transmission for
that matter.

What should be my next step in troubleshooting?

Thanks!

Josh
K6JSH
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Re: [Elecraft] Expecting a delivery ... but didn't happen

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Gene,

I've had that happen several times at two different locations. And 
once, the package ended up in the bushes. Most of the time the sender 
took care of it, but I had one item they wouldn't but replaced it at 
half cost (Though not  a lot of money ($15), I wasn't happy about it). 
So, I'm always a bit more leery whenever something more valuable is 
shipped. Happily, it's never been something irreplaceable (like an 
antique radio sent in for repair). There are no guarantee's in shipping. 
Even if you hand deliver it! {'-)


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
On 6/6/2014 07:34, Eugene Worth wrote:

Folks, I have a problem. I volunteered to build a K1 for a gentleman who’s 
hands are just too trembly to do it himself. I’ve been tracking the order from 
CA to my home QTH. It was supposed to arrive last night.

UPS generally doesn’t visit me until late in the evening, certainly after 6PM 
most of the time, and sometimes as late as 8PM+. So, I wasn’t too concerned 
until 9PM rolled around. I then checked the email tracking at UPS … Well, well, 
well, guess what? UPS says the package was delivered to my front door at 
5:26PM. The problem is that my wife and I were sitting at the supper table at 
that time. We didn’t hear a UPS truck in the neighborhood all evening.

So, now I’ve got a problem … UPS says the package is delivered. Elecraft has 
done everything right. I don’t have a radio for this gentleman.

I’m going to go to a UPS store later in the morning and ask them to check the 
GPS data on that truck at the time of delivery. Is there anything else that I 
can do?

Thanks in advance.

72,
gene
WG7GW
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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Power Poles

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Jim, Et Al,

Just a note about what I heard regarding the crimp/solder debate: 
When you solder stranded wire, you loose strain relief. That is, under 
any flexing, individual strands tend to break. Granted, our application 
doesn't usually involve a lot of any type of strain, but it's a good 
thing to keep in mind.


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
On 12/11/2013 14:11, Jim Brown wrote:



I think cost new less than $50?


Why would I want to spend $50 (plus shipping, of course) for a crimper 
when the soldering iron I already own works really well? Some of my 
techniques:


1) The biggest inserts are the most difficult to use, so I use them 
only for the #10 wire for which they are designed. I first carefully 
strip and tin the wire long enough so that the stripped conductor will 
just fit inside the shell once the pin is inserted. That's because the 
insulation of a larger cable often does not fit inside the shell. I 
find that liquid flux applied to the wire before tinning keeps the 
solder layer thin enough to fit in the insert. I then use the pliers 
to fold the wings over the wire so that, when soldered, it will fit 
in the shell.  I also use a drop of flux when soldering.


2) The middle-size insert will handle #12 if carefully stripped and 
tinned, as above. Again, I use flux for the tinning, and also for 
soldering to the pin.


3) I use a lot of the smallest inserts for small diameter cables, like 
those from small accessories. I strip the conductors long enough that 
I can fold the stripped part over itself with the folded length just 
enough to fit in the pin. Again, a drop of flux helps the soldering 
process.


4) I use a nice bench vise to hold the cable to which I am soldering, 
orienting the cable upward so that the pin sits on it, and oriented so 
that the V+ cable is on the right with the lip facing away from me.


Once the pins are installed, I mate a red and black shell, put the two 
shells in the vise, then carefully orient the pins and push them in 
one at a time until the lip latches to the blade in the shell. For 
smaller cable, I use a little green Xcelite screwdriver to push the 
pin over the blade.


In general, these techniques work well for almost any connector I need 
to install, all the way up to PL259s and multipins of various sorts


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KX1: Can I Improve Opposite Sideband Rejection?

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi,

Just a quick question: Can the opposite sideband rejection of the 
KX1 be improved? The receiver is sensitive enough, but, when I have a 
strong signal, as I tune by it, I can hear the signal on both sides of 
the BFO. Granted, the opposing sideband is much lower, but still there. 
Any thoughts? Thanks!


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, aka WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
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[Elecraft] KX1 Repair Request

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi!

Well, I'm trying to repair my fully-loaded KX1. Some years ago, it 
appears to have experienced a static discharge. So, the symptom is that 
the receive sensitivity went down. I had removed the receiver muting 
transistor as a diagnostic procedure, and never did anything more with 
it. I was just messing with it as I want to take a small radio on 
vacation (last week of August). So, I've run out of time. Anyway, since 
that was several years ago, I have to find all the parts(!), as I've 
moved since then. I'm looking for someone who can fix it in a reasonable 
time (in time for my vacation!) at (hopefully) a reasonable cost. 
Recommendations? Offers? Thanks!


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 frequency loss

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hum...

Maybe Elecraft is encouraging a frequency diet a trend for other 
types of diets Amateurs might be thinking about... Just think what 
would happen if the frequencies were *reversed*! Now *that* would be a 
*true* conspiracy!~


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
On 6/22/2013 16:08, Don Putnick wrote:

I noticed something very suspicious. The older K3 marketing photog shows VCOs 
A/B as 14.195.000/14.200.00 and the newer photog shows 14.175.30/14.180.30. 
Enquiring minds want to know why! Where did the 20 kHz go?

Don NA6Z K3/KPA500/KAT500
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Re: [Elecraft] OT--RFI Issue

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Dave,

Along this line, logging will tell you /whether/ its you or random. 
But, maybe you've already established that...? It's really hard to 
eliminate it if it's not you! {'-)


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
On 3/18/2013 23:08, Richard Fjeld wrote:

This is when logging can really payoff. I have seen it related to a specific 
frequency.

   - Original Message -
   From: Dyarnes
   To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
   Sent: Monday, March 18, 2013 9:30 PM
   Subject: [Elecraft] OT--RFI Issue


   Hi All,

   I am in need of some informed counseling.  Hopefully I won't start a thread
   of war stories.

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Re: [Elecraft] CW transmitting - any clicks?

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Steve,

 Except for the noise my straight key makes, I've never noticed any 
noise from the KX3...

 Regards,

 kurtt

 Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
 The Pinrod Corporation
 ku...@pinrod.com
 (773) 284-9500
 http://pinrod.com

On 12/1/2011 06:06, Steve KC8QVO wrote:
 This may be a stupid question, but does the KX3 click at all transmitting CW?
 For example - when I stick my headphones on with my FT-857D it still clicks
 between RX and TX. It makes it impossible to have quiet, non-bothersome
 QSO's in camp when everyone else is trying to bed down for the night. I can
 throw some clothes around the rig but that doesn't solve the problem, just
 dampens it.

 Steve, KC8QVO

 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/CW-transmitting-any-clicks-tp7050281p7050281.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] XG3 question

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Jim,

 To add to what Mike said in the reflector, and, as I understand it, 
you can make the XG3 scan between two set frequencies. I suspect that, 
if you set those frequencies fairly narrow and within the band pass of 
the receiver, you should get some buzz (I suspect some sort of 
saw-tooth). Of course, I don't know how fast it would scan, but I would 
think that you should be able to detect it. Hope that helps until 
someone with hands-on experience can reply...

 Regards,

 kurtt

 Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
 The Pinrod Corporation
 ku...@pinrod.com
 (773) 284-9500
 http://pinrod.com

On 10/30/2011 20:55, Jim Harris wrote:
 Hi,
 I have a need for a 72.9 MHz signal source that can be heard on an FM 
 receiver.  The question is does the XG3 cover that frequency and can it's 
 output cause any kind of an indication on an FM receiver.  I'm not looking 
 for intelligent audio from the receiver.just a buzz, hiss of anything to 
 indicate that the source is being received.
 Thanks in advance.

 Take pride in the USA. 73



 Jim, W0EM
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 - How much supply voltage is too much?

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Brian,

 Laptops get away with it because they use their internal battery 
like a capacitor. And, they're not really too susceptible to noise in 
general. Nature of the beast...

 Regards,

 kurtt

 Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
 The Pinrod Corporation
 ku...@pinrod.com
 (773) 284-9500
 http://pinrod.com

On 5/10/2011 15:32, Brian Alsop wrote:
 Roger,

 You should see the crummy DC waveforms put out by typical laptop
 switching supplies.  I bought a bunch at a recent hamfest.  Put each one
 on a 'scope to observe the output.  One had a 0.5 volt sawtooth
 superimposed over the DC value.  Another have ringing with introducing a
 swing of over a volt in magnitude around the DC value.  I tested at zero
 and full load.  None of these problems went away.  The rest were far
 from clean.  Some were IBM branded.

 No way would I put my rig on one of these beasties.

 I don't know how laptops manage to tolerate them.

 The only other thing is yes were hamfest items and could have all been
 rejects or something.

 For what it is worth,  I did find one good supply but it was for a Kodak
 printer.  However, it put out 25 volts.   The output was very clean at
 all levels of load.

 73 de Brian/K3KO

 On 5/10/2011 19:35, Ross Primrose N4RP wrote:
 On 5/10/2011 3:13 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 If it were my radio, I would add one or two silicon diodes in series
 with the positive lead to reduce the voltage to about 14 volts. For a
 10W K3, I'd guess that 5A diodes would be just fine.
 I'd thought about that as a possibility. Heat could be an issue,
 especially if I want it to be easily portable, at 5A, that's about
 3.5W/diode assuming a 0.7V drop.

 If it's a laptop supply, I would also be concerned about RF noise that
 it might produce.
 I'm concerned about it too, but the laptop supply is already in hand,
 and without a laptop, so it's worth a try. I know the old desktop PC
 supply I'm using now has broadband noise at 7.070-7.080, so maybe this
 one will be better (and definitely a lot smaller!).

 73, Ross N4RP



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Re: [Elecraft] Ligntning protection

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

John, Dick, Dale, Et Al,

 Very interesting discussion! I'm sure this has come up before: Just 
one question: Where would one find good information on-line about proper 
grounding.

 Thanks!

 Regards,

 kurtt

 Kurt Pawlikowski
 The Pinrod Corporation
 ku...@pinrod.com
 (773) 284-9500
 http://pinrod.com

On 4/13/2011 00:24, John K9UWA wrote:
 As Dale stated Polyphaser is the way to go guys.

 As to the RISK. I live in Northern Indiana where thunder and lightning are 
 common many times per year. I have three
 towers with the top antenna at 175 foot level. Trees here barely make it to 
 70 feet. So I am IT. There is no DISCONNECT
 during such storms. If I ever disconnected this station it would take a 
 couple weeks to do so. Longer to reconnect it. 5 rotors on the
 three towers. Twenty Aluminum Yagi antennas for 40-10 meters plus numerous 
 wire antennas. Relay control lines to switch all this
 stuff.

 After a rather nasty strike back in 1988 when I first installed a good share 
 of this stuff. Insurance claim was close to 10K. Insurance
 company said: We don't want you. We did find an Assigned Risk Company who 
 took us. They said 90 days to either get all that
 stuff on the ground or install a commercial ground system.

 Yes its lots of work and no its not cheap but let me tell you it does WORK. 
 As Dale stated the Tower has been direct hit many
 times since 1988. Nothing is ever disconnected. Zero Damage has happened. Yes 
 there are 100 ground rods buried in my yard.
 Yes they are connected by 1200 feet of copper 3/8 ID Tubing. It has a lower 
 inductance per foot than 2 inch wide copper strap.
 Plus its cheaper. Same stuff as used to hook up AC systems with. I thought I 
 owned STOCK in Polyphaser for a while.

 Contesters maybe used to recognize my callsign K9UWA and today they will 
 recognize K9NW Mike as he operates the station in
 many contests. All with today one little K3 radio. I operate it remotely 
 during the winters from Florida myself.

 so YES you can protect your whole station if you are willing to spend a 
 little money and do a little WORK. Certainly beats the
 alternative of trying to find all the things that are messed up after Mother 
 Nature takes its course. The expense really isn't all that
 great when compared to the cost of the radios, amplifiers, computers, TV 
 sets, refrigerators and other things that are blown up by
 the lightning hits.

 It is a scary spectacular display when the tower is hit just after dark. Once 
 it happened when we had a birthday party here with
 about 40 friends present. About 1/2 of them were Hams. I think some needed a 
 change of underwear afterwards.

 John k9uwa
 John Goller, K9UWA  Jean Goller, N9PXF
 Antique Radio Restorations
 k9...@arrl.net
 Visit our Web Site at:
 http://www.JohnJeanAntiqueRadio.com
 4836 Ranch Road
 Leo, IN 46765
 USA
 1-260-637-6426

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 visualizing local noise

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Jim, Fred, Et Al,

 Just a note: Some switching power supply bricks are noisy, even 
if the supplied unit is off. Had a View Sonic monitor like that. Because 
I could turn it off, It gave the false impression that it was not the 
source: The noise didn't disappear when off, but some displayed images 
did modulate it differently. It wasn't until I disconnected the AC line 
that it went away. Unfortunately, that made me internet blind, so I 
usually just lived with it... {'-)

 Regards,

 kurtt

 Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
 The Pinrod Corporation
 ku...@pinrod.com
 (773) 284-9500
 http://pinrod.com

On 3/31/2011 01:30, Jim Brown wrote:
 On 3/30/2011 11:10 PM, Fred Atchley wrote:
 My P3 started displaying persistent clumps of noise across each band. These
 clumps reoccurred at about every 72KH over most bands.
 This is the signature of a switching power supply. They are everywhere,
 and most of them are noise RF noise generators. Spectrum displays like
 the P3 are very useful in exposing noise sources like these.  You find
 and eliminate one and you start seeing weaker ones. The noise comes and
 goes and you and your neighbors turn on and off the equipment powered by
 these nasty little buggers.  You'll also see them drift up or down in
 frequency as they warm up, and drift up and down as their oscillator
 frequency is dithered (frequency-modulated by noise).   RFI regulations
 limit the field strength at a single frequency. Dithering is a cheat
 that makes it easier to stay below those limits by spreading the noise
 over the dithered bandwidth.

 I recently identified the source of really loud noise on 12M as coming
 from the switching power supply for my SteppIR controller.

 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] A Mini Module I would love to see (AC0LP)

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi,

 DX engineering has several commercial products:

 http://www.dxengineering.com/Sections.asp?ID=33DeptID=17#Top

 I also saw in a QST (sorry, don't remember which: I've been 
re-reading QST's from the last few years) an IP driven RF controlled 
remote. I suspect a lot more expensive, but it had a range of several 
hundred feet.

 Regards,

 kurtt

 Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
 The Pinrod Corporation
 ku...@pinrod.com
 (773) 284-9500
 http://pinrod.com

On 12/17/2010 14:50, Alan Bloom wrote:
 Many years ago I built a remote antenna switch that allowed feeding up
 to 4 antennas from the same feedline.  The feedline also was used for
 the control signal, so no additional wires were needed.

 It was a very simple circuit.  The switch box at the top of the tower
 contained 5 coax connectors, two DPDT relays, two diodes, an RF choke
 and a couple capacitors.  The control box in the shack contained 2 coax
 connectors, a 60-Hz power transformer, a 4-position switch, an RF choke,
 two diodes and a couple capacitors.

 The schematic is at http://www.cds1.net/~n1al/ham/ant_switch.GIF

 The electrolytic capacitors in the switch box may not be needed,
 depending on the relays.  I believe I used 0.1 uF for the coupling and
 bypass capacitors something like 22 or 47 uH for the RF chokes.  (A
 smaller choke might be required for VHF.)  The transformer was chosen to
 provide the correct relay voltage.  You may need to add resistors in
 series with the relay coils to fine-tune the voltage.

 Al N1AL


 On Fri, 2010-12-17 at 07:48 -0800, Jobst Vandrey wrote:
 A small board to insert 12 volts DC on the Coax at the shack and a similar 
 board to pick it up at the antenna end to run relays or power remote tuners 
 without impacting the RF carried on the coax.  I really do not want to run a 
 second set of cables just for this purpose.  It would be great if it was 
 configured with some more or less standard DPDT relay positions (optional of 
 course) that could be populated as needed by the user to meet various 
 switching needs.

 MFJ does offer such a beast (4116 and 4117 without the relays) - but I admit 
 to some significant uncertainty in the quality of the design and the of the 
 components used in the manufacturing.

 Jobst Vandrey
 AC0LP



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Re: [Elecraft] Nearfield monitors

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Bob, Et Al,

 Just a note: I had one switching supply that radiated from the box 
(lots of nice birdies spaced about 100K IIRC)... I can't imagine any 
grounding that would have prevented that... {'-)

 Regards,

 kurtt

 Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
 The Pinrod Corporation
 ku...@pinrod.com
 (773) 284-9500
 http://pinrod.com

On 10/28/2010 18:10, Bob wrote:
 I highly recommend these:

 http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AQNRG10

 They are so effective at RFI suppression you can use any old cheap
 switcher supply
 without worries.

 I'd suspect they will also help with the new peak current demands of the
 eagerly anticipated
 APF.

 I would really like to see the sales figures for these.   How many  *'s
 are out there?

 73,
 Bob
 K2TK



 On 10/28/2010 6:19 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 Ah, but Don, have you cryogenically treated those wires in liquid Nitrogen
 so the electrons flow more smoothly along the copper as some Audiophile
 sites recommend?

 I even saw one ad for cryogenically-treated power cords that would deliver a
 smoother flow of mains power into the amp and so not turbulate the audio
 signals.

 Silliness reigns everywhere...

 Ron AC7AC



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Re: [Elecraft] For you Anti-Scopes

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Julian,

PMFJI (Pardon me for jumping in): I think, more accurately, the 
analogy might be the difference between a hook-and-line fisherman and 
someone trolling with a net and crane. Except the net and crane still 
have human interaction... {'-)

Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
ku...@pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com

Julian, G4ILO wrote:
 I'm sure it could be done, and I'm sure the programmer who wrote it could
 justifiably feel satisfaction at the results he got, because for sure he
 would have put a lot of effort into creating it. The question is whether
 those who simply downloaded his program and used it would have their
 enjoyment if the hobby and sense of achievement enhanced by so doing?

 I think the fishing analogy is an apt one. No-one would advocate going back
 to using a stick and a bit of string (although some in this thread seem to
 be suggesting an equivalent of it) but surely it is undeniable that a radar
 that could let you see where all the fish are would remove the sporting
 element of fishing?

 Isn't ham radio like sport fishing, something done for the pleasure and
 skill of it? I get the feeling that for some people it has become more like
 commercial fishing and anything that can maximize your catch is good.

 Different strokes for different folks, I know. But I wish I could understand
 what they get out of it.


 Eric Manning wrote:
   
 Further to Julian's  others' comments about CW Skimmer removing the 
 need to tune the band, 
 a skilled part of the operating experience which is enjoyable to many  
 [but not all!] of us:

 My friend is hot to write a software layer which will sit on top of CW 
 Skimmer and which will
 win contests  -- entirely on its own. 

 Put another way, it is the next logical step after the PDP-7 program which
 did QSOs on its own, described in this thread.

 The amateur will just point my friend's software  at a contest , hit 
 start, and leave the shack.

 I know just enough about artificial intelligence and expert systems to 
 believe that
 he very possibly can do it. Then what?

 


 -
 Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
 * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
 * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
 * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

   
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Re: [Elecraft] ESD mat measurements

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Alan,

   Bloom's Law: I like it.

   Doug out my mat and, no, couldn't measure it with my DVM. It so 
happens that I do have a nice L/C meter (Almost All Digital Electronics 
model L/C Meter IIB) and I did discover I can measure capacitance: About 
1 pf. Now, while thats not telling me the resistance, at least it's 
telling me that *something* is happening! If I have time, the sauce pans 
will come out... Where can I find a nice juicy capacitor...


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   ku...@pinrod.com
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Alan Bloom wrote:

A few months ago I reported here on some measurements I made on the
Radio Shack portable ESD mat (see below).  Basically I found that it
doesn't bleed off static charges as it is supposed to.  (i.e. It fails
the ESD Association resistance specification for ESD mats.)

So I recently bought another ESD mat from Jameco.  It's their
19.5x23.5-inch anti-static mat, P/N 10584, $16.45.  Tonight I measured
it using the same technique that I used with the Radio Shack mat.  It's
even worse!  After a half hour, the capacitor was still charged to 75%
or so versus 50% with the RS mat.

So what's going on here?  I can think of three explanations.

(1)  There's something wrong with my measurement technique.
(2)  Perhaps you're supposed to treat the mat with some kind of
conductive material before use.
(3)  Cheap anti-static mats are a fraud and are worthless for their
intended purpose.

I can't figure out how it could be (1).  As a sanity check I confirmed
that the sauce pans I was using as probes are conductive and the
capacitor is indeed 0.1 uF.  I doubt it is (2) - I can't believe that
the mats are supposed to be untreated as they come from the factory.

I suspect (3).  Years when when I was a components engineer at Hewlett
Packard, I was measuring some of those rubber heat sink insulators and
found they didn't even come close to meeting their thermal resistance
spec.  So I came up with Bloom's Law:  The harder a specification is to
measure, the more likely it is to be a lie.  If you buy a 1k, 10%
resistor it will almost certainly be within spec since anyone with a DVM
can easily measure it.  Measuring surface resistivity by the ESD
Association method requires an uncommon, expensive piece of test
equipment that people who buy $16 ESD pads are unlikely to have.  So
it's easy for the manufacturer to cut corners without getting caught.

Al N1AL


On Wed, 2008-02-27 at 09:51, Alan Bloom wrote:
  

Well, I've convinced myself that the Radio Shack portable ESD mat, P/N
276-2370 doesn't work properly.

The ESD Association http://www.esda.org has promulgated an
industry-standard test for ESD mats, ESD S4.1.  It is the standard
specified by most commercial mats.  I decided not to spring for the $70
to buy a copy of the standard, but other information I found on the web
describes the test in general terms.  It uses two circular electrodes,
each weighted with 5 pounds, spaced 10 inches apart on the mat.  The
Point to Point Resistance is specified to be:

At 40-60% RH: 10^6 - 10^7 ohms
At 20-40% RH: 10^7 - 10^8 ohms
At 10-20% RH: 10^8 - 10^9 ohms

I don't know what the RH here in Santa Rosa was yesterday when I did the
test, but I don't think it was very low since it has been raining
recently and the ground is still damp.  For sure the resistance
shouldn't be below 10^9 ohms (1 gigohm) and probably more like 10^8 or
10^7 (100 or 10 megohms).

I measured 2.5 x 10^10 ohms (25 gigohms), which puts the Radio Shack mat
way out of spec.

Test procedure:

I didn't find a specification on the electrode size, but in the photo of
a popular tester they look to be maybe 3 or 4 inches in diameter.  For
my test, the electrodes were two saucepans, each about 7 inches in
diameter and weighted with 5 pounds.  They were spaced 10 inches apart
on the mat (3 inches edge-to-edge).  I connected a 0.1 uF film capacitor
between the two pans and charged it to 15V with a power supply.  


I set my ancient Simpson analog volt-ohm meter to 60 uA full scale.  If
I touch the leads across the capacitor immediately after charging, the
needle momentarily jumps to about 6 uA (1/10 full scale) as the
capacitor discharges through the meter.  If I wait half an hour (1800
seconds) for the capacitor to partially discharge through the mat
resistance, the needle jumps to about 3 uA.

An R-C network discharges to 3/6 of original voltage in about 0.7 time
constant.  So the time constant must be 1800/0.7 = 2571 seconds.  That
implies the mat resistance is 2571 sec / 0.1 uF ~= 2.5 x 10^10 ohms.  


Al N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] ESD Question!

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Jim,

   There are *no* dumb questions! In fact, this is a good question and 
not asked nearly as often as it maybe should!


   The biggest issue with ESD is keeping a discharge from going 
*through* you equipment. In *theory*, an ungrounded system offers some 
protection from this, but it is not recommended. If you have any ground 
(third wire or station ground), that will suffice. Usually, the third 
wire ground is used. I believe that's because 1) its ubiquitous and 2) 
because its ubiquitous, it'll be at the same potential with most of the 
things you have in your house which intern means you'll have little 
chance of becoming a bridge circuit in a ground loop (two grounds 
with different potentials). While this usually isn't an issue, I have 
heard of ground loops with potentially hazardous voltages. Maybe not so 
much for people as for equipment.


   You should be able to check your mat the same way you checked your 
wrist strap. Measure between the alligator clip and the mat itself. You 
should get similar (~1 megohm) results. Its been a long time since I've 
messed with mine, but IIRC, you should be able to make this measurement.


   Now, whether the ground you've chosen is effective is another 
matter. An interesting revelation is to measure between your station 
ground and your electrical ground. And, as I understand it, your station 
ground should be bonded to your electrical ground at the panel's ground 
rod. Why? Well, it helps keep lightening from using your ground (and 
consequently, you equipment!) instead of the designated driver, 
so-to-speak. Of course, any direct hit and all bets are off. In fact, 
because of EMP, you can have electronics that are not even plugged in 
get fried. Isn't that special! {'-)


   I hope this helps.

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   ku...@pinrod.com
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

capo...@bellsouth.net wrote:

Good afternoon All.
 
They say an un-asked question is the only dumb question.  Well, here 
goes!
 
I'm an appliance operator and my technical skills are kinda shallow.  
I do have a DMM and know how to use it.
 
I'm in the planning stage of building my dream transceiver: aka an 
Elecraft K3.
 
After reading through the assembly manual [thanks to its availability 
on the Internet], it's very clear that I should not try such a  
project without an ESD Wrist Strap and ESD Mat.  I have these in my 
possession as we speak.  They were purchased from a commercial company 
advertising them as ESD items.
 
That leads me to my question.  How can I be assured that this Mat IS 
grounding a PCB [or anything else] during the build process?
 
I checked the resistance of the Wrist Strap and sure enough there is a 
1M Ohm resistor in there.
 
I cannot figure a way to check the Mat's grounding.  It's alligator 
clip is attached to my station's woven metal Ground Strap system. 
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Thanks and Best 73.
 
Jim.

WA4NTM
 



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Re: [Elecraft] Questions from a Liberal Arts Major

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Lee,

   Don't know about the connector issues (I suppose that might be a 
matter of personal preference). The S-Meter issue has to do with fine 
adjustments. Since the meter is a bar graph type, blocks are either 
lit or not. If, for instance, you are attempting to see the difference 
between 4.3 blocks and 4.4 blocks, they display the same (either 4 or 5 
blocks, depending on software design). Apparently, this design issue is 
also in the data given to a control computer. That is, instead of giving 
a value (i.e., 4.321), it is just mimicking the bar graph (i.e., 4 
blocks). So, if you're trying to make a comparative measurement 
between similar signals, unless they happen to be on the edge of two 
block values, they will look the same. While this is normal for this 
type of display, it is a little unusual for the computer data stream. 
That usually reflects raw data. Does that help? {'-)


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Lee Buller wrote:



Ladies and Gents.

I have been trying to follow the threads on IMD performance of the K3 
and the S-Meter thread of the K3.  Could someone explain (to a Liberal 
Arts Major - not an engineering type)  what the issues are here and 
why they are issues with this radio?  Maybe, I'm lost in all the 
hullabaloo.


Alsowhy is one person calling the S-Meter and the power connector 
junk that cannot be fixed?


Thank you for the education.

Lee Buller - K0WA
K3 SN 443
K2 SN 1056

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If 
you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If 
you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has 
some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine?




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Re: [Elecraft] Correct Link..

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

David,

   As I don't have a K3 (sigh), I was wondering if you might post a 
screen capture of your baby in action. {'-)


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

David Fleming wrote:

Sorry. Here's the correct link..

http://sight.net/K3Meter

David, W4SMT

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Re: [Elecraft] It should be a law.

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hum... I'm sure Eric and Wayne would love to have those type of 
manufacturing problems


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Gary D Krause wrote:
How many of us that work QRP or even QRO for that matter, have had a 
station jump right on top of us because, they couldn't hear our 
signal?  It has happened to me as I'm sure to many others.  I was just 
thinking about this and I think I have come up with a solution.  We 
all know that the antenna is the most important part of the station 
but, not everyone can erect a one hundred element monster with 1000dB 
of gain.  So, I figured the next best thing would be to require that 
every ham purchase a K2 or K3.  Then maybe those that can't hear 
anything would suddenly be able to hear what is really going on.  What 
do you think? ;-)


Gary, N7HTS



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - signal loss in band-pass filter

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Are, Et Al,

   JAT: It could be that the act of removing/reseating the MC1350 fixed 
the problem. Sometimes sockets don't!


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Are LB3SA wrote:

It was actually one of your earlier posts (thanks!) that prompted me to
inject the IF signal before and after the IF Amp. At that point I had pulled
out lot of hair and lost sleep over a low sensitivity K2.

As to when the solder bridge got there... I'm not 100% certain that a bridge
was the problem. But after I realized that the IF Amp was not amplifying I
went over the solder points around the chip (I actually removed the chip and
installed it again). The radio then started to work. It was actually a bit
of a surprise since I never saw the problem - especially since I looked very
closely at all the points through an amplifying glass many times before AND
since all the voltages at MC1350 measured at specs while I had the problem.
It was just the IF signal that wasn't amplifying leading me to at first
think that the chip itself was defect.

I only assume it was a solder bridge. And if that's the case it was probably
made by me.

Are - LB3SA



TF3KX wrote:
  

Just out of curiosity...

Where was that solder bridge on the MC1350?  Was it already on the SMD
assembly when you received it, or was it something you caused by your
soldering?

The reason I ask is that I had a problem with my SMD MC1350, never found
out what caused it, and just replaced it.  If there is something there to
watch out for, it may help others...

73 - Kristinn, TF3KX




  

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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don, Et Al,

   Looks like the unit may have had a static discharge through the 
antenna. Q7, part of the receiver mute circuit was blown. I'll order one 
tomorrow and go from there. Once I removed this component, 20 meters 
seems to be up there where it should be. Nothing else seems to be 
receiving correctly right now, but I'll attribute that to either this 
(now missing) part or some issue I accidentally introduced while 
troubleshooting. We'll see!


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurt,

From all you have said, I would believe that the problem is in the 
KXB3080 low pass filter.
While I agree that your continuity test indicates no apparent problem 
with the toroid lead tinning, check all the connections to be certain 
there is a bit of solder on both sides of the board - if not, view 
that connection with suspicion.


Make certain there is no contact with the green wire from L2 to the 
lower connection of the red wire.  The green wire must wrap around to 
the back side of the LPF board and can inadvertently contact the #4 
termination of the wire for the red winding.


The best LPF testing is visual - look for any suspicious solder 
connections.  Yes, you will see a 17 MHz cutoff on the LPF if you 
measure it without regard to disconnecting it from the rest of the 
circuit and failing to properly terminate the filter (it is not 50 
ohms at the PA transistor side, but I have not ever calculated the 
proper termination).


Perhaps it is helpful if I tell you that the green winding is the only 
active portion on 40, 30 and 20 meters.  The red winding is used for 
80 meters and SWB band below about 6 MHz only.


Caution:  The sensitivity of the KX1 is not as great on 20 meters as 
it is on 30 or 40 meters.  Bringing a finger (or antenna) close to T2 
or many of the receiver tuned circuits after the LPF  will normally 
result in an increase in receiver total output, but that is actually 
an increase in broadband noise - under careful measurement conditions, 
the desired signal strength will not increase even though the overall 
noise level does.  Spectrogram will show that is true.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Hi,

   First, thanks for reading. Hopefully, it won't be boring for those
lucky K3 guys and gals...

   CONFIGURATION

   KX-1, 3080 upgrade. ATU currently removed and antenna jumper
installed for testing.Using XG-2 as a signal source. I have confirmed
the XG-2 seems to be working about as expected with another receiver
(about S-10 at 50uv and S-0 (but still in the speakers) at 1uv).

   SYMPTOM

   With normal operation, receive levels appear normal on 80 and 40 (I
can make contacts), but the XG2 is not peaking the KX-1's meter (I used
the XG-2 to calibrate the meter). 20 meters has always seemed deaf to
me. I don't remember how well the XG-2 was received on 20 when I
calibrated it. Here's the real kicker: On 20 meters, with the XG-2
attached, I hear *no* volume difference between 50 and 1uv (which means
the KX-1's receiver is picking up the signal by proximity, not through
the antenna connection). If I touch the RX antenna connection almost
anywhere between the low-pass filter and the input of the Rx Mixer (U6,
pin 1), 20 meters comes way up (from nothing to receiving moderately
weak signals and noise). Touching the RX antenna line on 80 and 40
appears to have little or no affect. Output power on 20 meters does not
register full power, but I'm not sure if this is a calibration problem
as I don't have an accurate power meter. Also, when I couple a grid dip
meter into the RX, when tuned to 30 or 20 meters, I get a marked dip
just at about 17 MHz.




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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Manufacturers may need to redesign Frequency Displays

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Just in case: http://www.snopes.com/lost/lost.asp

... Seems even snopes has a TIC page... Hi, hi...

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Here is an rather old post with serious implications for amateurs.This could 
mean major revisions in the way manufacturers display frequency. It may also 
lead to serious complications with the design precision of many rigs and other 
electronics devices.
 
_http://www.snopes.com/lost/fraction.asp_ 
(http://www.snopes.com/lost/fraction.asp) 
 
On the Positive side, it will finally put an end to the idiotic pricing of 
Gasoline to a tenth of a cent - as if that really matters anymore.  Be careful 
the next time you buy a pair of shoes and be prepared to buy groceries in even 
numbers of pounds.  (I can now picture buying strawberries and sifting through 
the bins for that evasive berry that makes a full pound.)
 
Seriously, can still call these idiot legislators half-wits in the belief 
they will know what it means?  I sure would like to find an April 1st date on 
that bill!
 
My Class couldn't stop laughing for half an. . . .oops! 30 minutes when they 
read this  ;)
 
Al WA6VNN




**Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch Cooking with 
Tyler Florence on AOL Food.  
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?NCID=aolfod000302)

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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don,

   I suspected that. At any rate, I've either blown something else 
(seems 40 almost worked before I started troubleshooting!) or more 
than that one component was damaged. Gonna have to maybe mess with the 
LXB3030 with it's SMT stuff. I'm thinking that if that's damaged, its 
the most expensive single part of the 3080 kit! Of course, the more I 
think about it, the more it seems it'll be at least part of the 
remaining issues...


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurtt,

The KX1 should receive just fine with Q7 removed.  Any other receiver 
troubles are a different problem.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Don, Et Al,

   Looks like the unit may have had a static discharge through the 
antenna. Q7, part of the receiver mute circuit was blown. I'll order 
one tomorrow and go from there. Once I removed this component, 20 
meters seems to be up there where it should be. Nothing else seems to 
be receiving correctly right now, but I'll attribute that to either 
this (now missing) part or some issue I accidentally introduced while 
troubleshooting. We'll see!


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurt,

From all you have said, I would believe that the problem is in the 
KXB3080 low pass filter.
While I agree that your continuity test indicates no apparent 
problem with the toroid lead tinning, check all the connections to 
be certain there is a bit of solder on both sides of the board - if 
not, view that connection with suspicion.


Make certain there is no contact with the green wire from L2 to the 
lower connection of the red wire.  The green wire must wrap around 
to the back side of the LPF board and can inadvertently contact the 
#4 termination of the wire for the red winding.


The best LPF testing is visual - look for any suspicious solder 
connections.  Yes, you will see a 17 MHz cutoff on the LPF if you 
measure it without regard to disconnecting it from the rest of the 
circuit and failing to properly terminate the filter (it is not 50 
ohms at the PA transistor side, but I have not ever calculated the 
proper termination).


Perhaps it is helpful if I tell you that the green winding is the 
only active portion on 40, 30 and 20 meters.  The red winding is 
used for 80 meters and SWB band below about 6 MHz only.


Caution:  The sensitivity of the KX1 is not as great on 20 meters as 
it is on 30 or 40 meters.  Bringing a finger (or antenna) close to 
T2 or many of the receiver tuned circuits after the LPF  will 
normally result in an increase in receiver total output, but that is 
actually an increase in broadband noise - under careful measurement 
conditions, the desired signal strength will not increase even 
though the overall noise level does.  Spectrogram will show that is 
true.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Hi,

   First, thanks for reading. Hopefully, it won't be boring for those
lucky K3 guys and gals...

   CONFIGURATION

   KX-1, 3080 upgrade. ATU currently removed and antenna jumper
installed for testing.Using XG-2 as a signal source. I have confirmed
the XG-2 seems to be working about as expected with another receiver
(about S-10 at 50uv and S-0 (but still in the speakers) at 1uv).

   SYMPTOM

   With normal operation, receive levels appear normal on 80 and 40 (I
can make contacts), but the XG2 is not peaking the KX-1's meter (I 
used

the XG-2 to calibrate the meter). 20 meters has always seemed deaf to
me. I don't remember how well the XG-2 was received on 20 when I
calibrated it. Here's the real kicker: On 20 meters, with the XG-2
attached, I hear *no* volume difference between 50 and 1uv (which 
means

the KX-1's receiver is picking up the signal by proximity, not through
the antenna connection). If I touch the RX antenna connection almost
anywhere between the low-pass filter and the input of the Rx Mixer 
(U6,

pin 1), 20 meters comes way up (from nothing to receiving moderately
weak signals and noise). Touching the RX antenna line on 80 and 40
appears to have little or no affect. Output power on 20 meters does 
not

register full power, but I'm not sure if this is a calibration problem
as I don't have an accurate power meter. Also, when I couple a grid 
dip

meter into the RX, when tuned to 30 or 20 meters, I get a marked dip
just at about 17 MHz.







No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1458 - 
Release Date: 5/21/2008 7:21 AM
  



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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don,

   Still frustrated...

   I removed the LPF board and removed both L1 and L2. I then hard 
wired them in, just the way they would be with the board and the relay 
off. This had no affect on the symptoms: The XG-2 signal still seems 
to be being coupled direct to the board (1 uv 50 uv switch does not 
change tone volume). The next step is to drag down my boat anchor 
oscilloscope and take some measurements. I expect the signal level 
before T2 to be too small for my old equipment to see (I don't think 
it'll do micro volts - I'll have to check though.). Anyway, with the 
XG-2 on 20 meters, what signal strength (p-p) should I be seeing at 
different points of the circuit? I'm thinking of several points between 
the antenna up to the mixer with both the 50 and 1 uv output (I may have 
a hard time measuring the 50 uv level, much less the 1!). Any other 
ideas are welcome...


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurt,

From all you have said, I would believe that the problem is in the 
KXB3080 low pass filter.
While I agree that your continuity test indicates no apparent problem 
with the toroid lead tinning, check all the connections to be certain 
there is a bit of solder on both sides of the board - if not, view 
that connection with suspicion.


Make certain there is no contact with the green wire from L2 to the 
lower connection of the red wire.  The green wire must wrap around to 
the back side of the LPF board and can inadvertently contact the #4 
termination of the wire for the red winding.


The best LPF testing is visual - look for any suspicious solder 
connections.  Yes, you will see a 17 MHz cutoff on the LPF if you 
measure it without regard to disconnecting it from the rest of the 
circuit and failing to properly terminate the filter (it is not 50 
ohms at the PA transistor side, but I have not ever calculated the 
proper termination).


Perhaps it is helpful if I tell you that the green winding is the only 
active portion on 40, 30 and 20 meters.  The red winding is used for 
80 meters and SWB band below about 6 MHz only.


Caution:  The sensitivity of the KX1 is not as great on 20 meters as 
it is on 30 or 40 meters.  Bringing a finger (or antenna) close to T2 
or many of the receiver tuned circuits after the LPF  will normally 
result in an increase in receiver total output, but that is actually 
an increase in broadband noise - under careful measurement conditions, 
the desired signal strength will not increase even though the overall 
noise level does.  Spectrogram will show that is true.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Hi,

   First, thanks for reading. Hopefully, it won't be boring for those
lucky K3 guys and gals...

   CONFIGURATION

   KX-1, 3080 upgrade. ATU currently removed and antenna jumper
installed for testing.Using XG-2 as a signal source. I have confirmed
the XG-2 seems to be working about as expected with another receiver
(about S-10 at 50uv and S-0 (but still in the speakers) at 1uv).

   SYMPTOM

   With normal operation, receive levels appear normal on 80 and 40 (I
can make contacts), but the XG2 is not peaking the KX-1's meter (I used
the XG-2 to calibrate the meter). 20 meters has always seemed deaf to
me. I don't remember how well the XG-2 was received on 20 when I
calibrated it. Here's the real kicker: On 20 meters, with the XG-2
attached, I hear *no* volume difference between 50 and 1uv (which means
the KX-1's receiver is picking up the signal by proximity, not through
the antenna connection). If I touch the RX antenna connection almost
anywhere between the low-pass filter and the input of the Rx Mixer (U6,
pin 1), 20 meters comes way up (from nothing to receiving moderately
weak signals and noise). Touching the RX antenna line on 80 and 40
appears to have little or no affect. Output power on 20 meters does not
register full power, but I'm not sure if this is a calibration problem
as I don't have an accurate power meter. Also, when I couple a grid dip
meter into the RX, when tuned to 30 or 20 meters, I get a marked dip
just at about 17 MHz.




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[Elecraft] Re: KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don,

   Thanks for the tips. Here are some comments...

   XG-1: Well, when I hook it up to my vintage Yaesu 757, besides 
showing signal strength difference (S-0 and S-9 respectively), the tone 
audio volume is very noticeable. Also, on 40 and 80 with the KX-1, I can 
hear a marked difference between the two settings. When I say that there 
is no difference, there isn't even a switch-click between the two 
settings. Very, very weird. Also, the relative position of the XG-1 to 
the KX-1 seems to have no affect (which, if the signal was somehow being 
directly coupled, bypassing the antenna lead, I would expect). Also, I 
expect that the signal at 50 uv should be blasting in. It only sounds 
like a moderate level at this time.


   Touching pre-mixer: I did notice that once my crossed wires on the 
LFP board were fixed, I could get a noise only increase on at least 
one other band (don't remember which) when touching the area, but on 20, 
it was a true signal volume increase (confirmed with the PC's band scope 
on the audio).


   I'll dig up the old yellow core toroids and put them in for now.

   Pre-3080: Since everything was built at the same time, its existence 
as a straight KX-1 was a very short time and some months ago. I can't 
remember most of yesterday, so who knows? {'-)


   It may come down to actually measuring components or finding someone 
willing to take a look at it for me (maybe who already has the proper 
test equipment or has a known good KX-1 for a side-by-side comparison?). 
Anyway, it's all I can do for right now. Thanks again for your help.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurtt,

Forget the 'scope, the levels from the XG2 are too small to drive a 
'scope.  The levels will be even less than the output of the signal 
generator.
Do you have a crystal around that is somewhere in the 40 meter or 20 
meter band?  Plus a few parts in your junkbox?  If so, you can build 
up the crystal oscillator that is shown in the Troubleshooting section 
of the K2 manual (download the manual from Elecraft website).  And if 
the oscilloscope is old, you probably do not have a 10X probe for it, 
so also build the RF Probe.
At this point, I don't know what else to tell you - you will need some 
basic test equipment to go much further.  You can do some more visual 
investigation.


Make certain the PC Trace cut is really cut.  Be certain the added 
wire is correct and that there is no contact of that wire with the end 
of L6 nor point 'A'.  Check and recheck the soldering of all the 
capacitors in the LPF area as well as C1.


How strong is the actual signal from the XG2?  Could it actually be 
that the KX1 AGC is making the signals sound about equal?  The fact 
that they sound the same may not be a problem at all.


You will be better off putting the yellow core L1 and L2 in place for 
the time being.
One thing that you can check with the 'scope is the Local Oscillator 
injection to the mixer.  You must have at least 200 mV peak to peak at 
U6 pin 6 for the mixer to work correctly.


Remember that touching a probe to the area of T2 will always pick up a 
lot of noise which results in an apparent increase in the signal being 
picked up, but the actual signal strength usually does not increase.


Did this KX1 work well before you added the KXB3080?  If not, then you 
may have a problem somewhere other than just the front end of the 
receiver.


73,
Don W3FPR



Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Don,

   Still frustrated...

   I removed the LPF board and removed both L1 and L2. I then hard 
wired them in, just the way they would be with the board and the 
relay off. This had no affect on the symptoms: The XG-2 signal 
still seems to be being coupled direct to the board (1 uv 50 uv 
switch does not change tone volume). The next step is to drag down my 
boat anchor oscilloscope and take some measurements. I expect the 
signal level before T2 to be too small for my old equipment to see (I 
don't think it'll do micro volts - I'll have to check though.). 
Anyway, with the XG-2 on 20 meters, what signal strength (p-p) should 
I be seeing at different points of the circuit? I'm thinking of 
several points between the antenna up to the mixer with both the 50 
and 1 uv output (I may have a hard time measuring the 50 uv level, 
much less the 1!). Any other ideas are welcome...


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurt,

From all you have said, I would believe that the problem is in the 
KXB3080 low pass filter.
While I agree that your continuity test indicates no apparent 
problem with the toroid lead tinning, check all the connections to 
be certain there is a bit of solder on both sides of the board - if 
not, view that connection with suspicion.


Make certain

Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Mike,

   While my pride as a builder says, No way! you are probably right 
and I'll probably have to rebuild that board. To paraphrase a quote: We 
hates it Mr. Baggins...


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Mike wrote:

Kurt,

For what it's worth, when I built my KX-1 I had very similar problems.  I wound 
up sending a pic of my LPF board to Don, who spotted the slightest hint of 
enamel insulation in one of the toroid solder joints.  I had to look at it 4 
times before I could even see it.  Anyway, I wound up pretty much rebuilding 
that board and it was fine after that.  It's *very* finicky.

--
73,
Mike, KC0KBC

 -- Original message --
From: Kurt Pawlikowski [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  

Don,

I'll check the LPF board closely.

As far as whether the signal increase, I believe it does. Since, 
when I touch it, signals I an hearing on my other receiver become 
apparent in the KX-1 also. And, I believe the XG-2 signal is increasing 
(only by ear). I say that because the increase is very noticeable: From, 
Is it there? to I have to turn it down. Which is quite a jump 
(probably 9dB).


Anyway, I'll look it over more closely (maybe rebuild that board) 
and report back. Thanks.


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:


Kurt,

From all you have said, I would believe that the problem is in the 
KXB3080 low pass filter.
While I agree that your continuity test indicates no apparent problem 
with the toroid lead tinning, check all the connections to be certain 
there is a bit of solder on both sides of the board - if not, view 
that connection with suspicion.


Make certain there is no contact with the green wire from L2 to the 
lower connection of the red wire.  The green wire must wrap around to 
the back side of the LPF board and can inadvertently contact the #4 
termination of the wire for the red winding.


The best LPF testing is visual - look for any suspicious solder 
connections.  Yes, you will see a 17 MHz cutoff on the LPF if you 
measure it without regard to disconnecting it from the rest of the 
circuit and failing to properly terminate the filter (it is not 50 
ohms at the PA transistor side, but I have not ever calculated the 
proper termination).


Perhaps it is helpful if I tell you that the green winding is the only 
active portion on 40, 30 and 20 meters.  The red winding is used for 
80 meters and SWB band below about 6 MHz only.


Caution:  The sensitivity of the KX1 is not as great on 20 meters as 
it is on 30 or 40 meters.  Bringing a finger (or antenna) close to T2 
or many of the receiver tuned circuits after the LPF  will normally 
result in an increase in receiver total output, but that is actually 
an increase in broadband noise - under careful measurement conditions, 
the desired signal strength will not increase even though the overall 
noise level does.  Spectrogram will show that is true.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:
  

Hi,

   First, thanks for reading. Hopefully, it won't be boring for those
lucky K3 guys and gals...

   CONFIGURATION

   KX-1, 3080 upgrade. ATU currently removed and antenna jumper
installed for testing.Using XG-2 as a signal source. I have confirmed
the XG-2 seems to be working about as expected with another receiver
(about S-10 at 50uv and S-0 (but still in the speakers) at 1uv).

   SYMPTOM

   With normal operation, receive levels appear normal on 80 and 40 (I
can make contacts), but the XG2 is not peaking the KX-1's meter (I used
the XG-2 to calibrate the meter). 20 meters has always seemed deaf to
me. I don't remember how well the XG-2 was received on 20 when I
calibrated it. Here's the real kicker: On 20 meters, with the XG-2
attached, I hear *no* volume difference between 50 and 1uv (which means
the KX-1's receiver is picking up the signal by proximity, not through
the antenna connection). If I touch the RX antenna connection almost
anywhere between the low-pass filter and the input of the Rx Mixer (U6,
pin 1), 20 meters comes way up (from nothing to receiving moderately
weak signals and noise). Touching the RX antenna line on 80 and 40
appears to have little or no affect. Output power on 20 meters does not
register full power, but I'm not sure if this is a calibration problem
as I don't have an accurate power meter. Also, when I couple a grid dip
meter into the RX, when tuned to 30 or 20 meters, I get a marked dip
just at about 17 MHz.



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[Elecraft] KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi,

   First, thanks for reading. Hopefully, it won't be boring for those
lucky K3 guys and gals...

   CONFIGURATION

   KX-1, 3080 upgrade. ATU currently removed and antenna jumper
installed for testing.Using XG-2 as a signal source. I have confirmed
the XG-2 seems to be working about as expected with another receiver
(about S-10 at 50uv and S-0 (but still in the speakers) at 1uv).

   SYMPTOM

   With normal operation, receive levels appear normal on 80 and 40 (I
can make contacts), but the XG2 is not peaking the KX-1's meter (I used
the XG-2 to calibrate the meter). 20 meters has always seemed deaf to
me. I don't remember how well the XG-2 was received on 20 when I
calibrated it. Here's the real kicker: On 20 meters, with the XG-2
attached, I hear *no* volume difference between 50 and 1uv (which means
the KX-1's receiver is picking up the signal by proximity, not through
the antenna connection). If I touch the RX antenna connection almost
anywhere between the low-pass filter and the input of the Rx Mixer (U6,
pin 1), 20 meters comes way up (from nothing to receiving moderately
weak signals and noise). Touching the RX antenna line on 80 and 40
appears to have little or no affect. Output power on 20 meters does not
register full power, but I'm not sure if this is a calibration problem
as I don't have an accurate power meter. Also, when I couple a grid dip
meter into the RX, when tuned to 30 or 20 meters, I get a marked dip
just at about 17 MHz.

   REASONING AND TROUBLESHOOTING

   These are the things I've done and why...

   1) Tested continuity between the antenna input and CA (measures
about 0.2 ohm). If I had messed up any of the connections on the 8030
coil board, I would have expected an open. 0.2 ohms *seems* consistent.
   2) Disconnected leads A and B from the 3080 board (thought they
might have been interfering).
   3) I inspected the 8030 coil board coil winding and installation.
They appear okay.
   4) I checked that T2 is wound and installed correctly.
   5) I have checked the values of capacitors in the low-pass filter
and mixer circuits (marked values only - not measured).
   6) I've inspected the solder connections (connections seem to be
verified by continuity tests).
   7) I've made sure the relays, K1 and K2, are in the proper state
(Normal for 30 and 20 meters - Added capacitors are disconnected).
   8) I've verified control voltages on the 8030 SMT board.
   9) I've verified the 8030 SMT connections are to the proper places
(since I've disconnected the A and B wires and injecting a signal into
the Rx Antenna input seems to work well, I'm assuming that wire C  is
not at fault).
   10) I made sure D7 is properly installed. I expect if it was not,
I'd get no power out at all.
   11) Scanned QTH's news group archive for KX-1 Rx problems, which had
some suggestions, but only one solution was listed. (I don't care for
their search facility)

   OTHER

   I'm sure I've missed something... probably obvious. I guess the next
step is to build an RF probe (though I expect the levels where the
problem is will be very difficult to measure) and drag down the boat
anchor Oscilloscope (which probably doesn't have the sensitivity to
trace the signal). Gives me an idea: I'll take my other radio and see if
I can trace the signal through the circuits. I expect I won't see it on
the RX ANT connection, which is telling me the same thing I think I'm
surmising above.

   Okay. Well, that's all I can think of just now. If anyone has any
suggestions or comments, please feel free to contact me on and/or off list.

   Thanks.

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don,

   I'll check the LPF board closely.

   As far as whether the signal increase, I believe it does. Since, 
when I touch it, signals I an hearing on my other receiver become 
apparent in the KX-1 also. And, I believe the XG-2 signal is increasing 
(only by ear). I say that because the increase is very noticeable: From, 
Is it there? to I have to turn it down. Which is quite a jump 
(probably 9dB).


   Anyway, I'll look it over more closely (maybe rebuild that board) 
and report back. Thanks.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurt,

From all you have said, I would believe that the problem is in the 
KXB3080 low pass filter.
While I agree that your continuity test indicates no apparent problem 
with the toroid lead tinning, check all the connections to be certain 
there is a bit of solder on both sides of the board - if not, view 
that connection with suspicion.


Make certain there is no contact with the green wire from L2 to the 
lower connection of the red wire.  The green wire must wrap around to 
the back side of the LPF board and can inadvertently contact the #4 
termination of the wire for the red winding.


The best LPF testing is visual - look for any suspicious solder 
connections.  Yes, you will see a 17 MHz cutoff on the LPF if you 
measure it without regard to disconnecting it from the rest of the 
circuit and failing to properly terminate the filter (it is not 50 
ohms at the PA transistor side, but I have not ever calculated the 
proper termination).


Perhaps it is helpful if I tell you that the green winding is the only 
active portion on 40, 30 and 20 meters.  The red winding is used for 
80 meters and SWB band below about 6 MHz only.


Caution:  The sensitivity of the KX1 is not as great on 20 meters as 
it is on 30 or 40 meters.  Bringing a finger (or antenna) close to T2 
or many of the receiver tuned circuits after the LPF  will normally 
result in an increase in receiver total output, but that is actually 
an increase in broadband noise - under careful measurement conditions, 
the desired signal strength will not increase even though the overall 
noise level does.  Spectrogram will show that is true.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Hi,

   First, thanks for reading. Hopefully, it won't be boring for those
lucky K3 guys and gals...

   CONFIGURATION

   KX-1, 3080 upgrade. ATU currently removed and antenna jumper
installed for testing.Using XG-2 as a signal source. I have confirmed
the XG-2 seems to be working about as expected with another receiver
(about S-10 at 50uv and S-0 (but still in the speakers) at 1uv).

   SYMPTOM

   With normal operation, receive levels appear normal on 80 and 40 (I
can make contacts), but the XG2 is not peaking the KX-1's meter (I used
the XG-2 to calibrate the meter). 20 meters has always seemed deaf to
me. I don't remember how well the XG-2 was received on 20 when I
calibrated it. Here's the real kicker: On 20 meters, with the XG-2
attached, I hear *no* volume difference between 50 and 1uv (which means
the KX-1's receiver is picking up the signal by proximity, not through
the antenna connection). If I touch the RX antenna connection almost
anywhere between the low-pass filter and the input of the Rx Mixer (U6,
pin 1), 20 meters comes way up (from nothing to receiving moderately
weak signals and noise). Touching the RX antenna line on 80 and 40
appears to have little or no affect. Output power on 20 meters does not
register full power, but I'm not sure if this is a calibration problem
as I don't have an accurate power meter. Also, when I couple a grid dip
meter into the RX, when tuned to 30 or 20 meters, I get a marked dip
just at about 17 MHz.




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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 20 Meter Deafness

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don,

   Okay... Frustrated, but here's what I found

   On the LPF1 board, L1, 1 and 4 were reversed and shorted together. 
This means that, for all intents and purposes, L1 was a wire. Okay, 
well, it's a wire anyway, but with a lot less inductance. You know what 
I mean! Hi, hi... This might explain my lower power on 20. I haven't 
fully checked it out yet.


   Anyway, even after fixing this error, it is still exhibiting the 
same problem on 20 meters (seems to be receiving by induction instead of 
through the antenna connection). Also, particularly on 20, touching the 
RX ANT connection increases the gain (confirmed by spectrograph 
program). Again, I seem to have continuity.


   Well, I think that's it for tonight. I can't think of anything else 
to look at right now. There is obviously something else wrong...


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurt,

From all you have said, I would believe that the problem is in the 
KXB3080 low pass filter.
While I agree that your continuity test indicates no apparent problem 
with the toroid lead tinning, check all the connections to be certain 
there is a bit of solder on both sides of the board - if not, view 
that connection with suspicion.


Make certain there is no contact with the green wire from L2 to the 
lower connection of the red wire.  The green wire must wrap around to 
the back side of the LPF board and can inadvertently contact the #4 
termination of the wire for the red winding.


The best LPF testing is visual - look for any suspicious solder 
connections.  Yes, you will see a 17 MHz cutoff on the LPF if you 
measure it without regard to disconnecting it from the rest of the 
circuit and failing to properly terminate the filter (it is not 50 
ohms at the PA transistor side, but I have not ever calculated the 
proper termination).


Perhaps it is helpful if I tell you that the green winding is the only 
active portion on 40, 30 and 20 meters.  The red winding is used for 
80 meters and SWB band below about 6 MHz only.


Caution:  The sensitivity of the KX1 is not as great on 20 meters as 
it is on 30 or 40 meters.  Bringing a finger (or antenna) close to T2 
or many of the receiver tuned circuits after the LPF  will normally 
result in an increase in receiver total output, but that is actually 
an increase in broadband noise - under careful measurement conditions, 
the desired signal strength will not increase even though the overall 
noise level does.  Spectrogram will show that is true.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Hi,

   First, thanks for reading. Hopefully, it won't be boring for those
lucky K3 guys and gals...

   CONFIGURATION

   KX-1, 3080 upgrade. ATU currently removed and antenna jumper
installed for testing.Using XG-2 as a signal source. I have confirmed
the XG-2 seems to be working about as expected with another receiver
(about S-10 at 50uv and S-0 (but still in the speakers) at 1uv).

   SYMPTOM

   With normal operation, receive levels appear normal on 80 and 40 (I
can make contacts), but the XG2 is not peaking the KX-1's meter (I used
the XG-2 to calibrate the meter). 20 meters has always seemed deaf to
me. I don't remember how well the XG-2 was received on 20 when I
calibrated it. Here's the real kicker: On 20 meters, with the XG-2
attached, I hear *no* volume difference between 50 and 1uv (which means
the KX-1's receiver is picking up the signal by proximity, not through
the antenna connection). If I touch the RX antenna connection almost
anywhere between the low-pass filter and the input of the Rx Mixer (U6,
pin 1), 20 meters comes way up (from nothing to receiving moderately
weak signals and noise). Touching the RX antenna line on 80 and 40
appears to have little or no affect. Output power on 20 meters does not
register full power, but I'm not sure if this is a calibration problem
as I don't have an accurate power meter. Also, when I couple a grid dip
meter into the RX, when tuned to 30 or 20 meters, I get a marked dip
just at about 17 MHz.




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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Zero beat hint and why 800hz maximum?

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don, Et Al,

   Just a note: While I am fairly musically inclined, I find that most 
rigs (including the KX-1 and FT-757) produce a non-sinusoidal note which 
I can't seem to consistently get my brain around. I find myself going to 
spectrum programs a lot...


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:
From this discussion, it is good to find that there are others like me 
who have a difficult time with zero-beating at any pitch.  It is also 
interesting that those with good pitch recognition are mystified by 
the problems we encounter.
It is likely that we all can detect the close-in low pitched beat note 
between two signals when that beat note is 20 Hz or lower - the 
problem I have is getting close enough to create that low pitched 
beat.  I hear two tones, but whether the signal is higher or lower 
than the sidetone is often a mystery - sure, I can get them close with 
trial and error, but that takes time.  Once tuned closely, it is an 
easy matter to listen to that low pitched 3rd tone (the beat).  Thank 
goodness for zero beat detectors and Spectrogram displays for taking 
the mystery out of this procedure for those of us with 'tin ears'.


73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 : standby current

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Bob,

   I'm assuming you mean when it's off. I think most car batteries 
are at least 100 AH. It can run some 14,285 hours or 595 days or 1.6 
years to drain the battery entirely (if that's possible!). Anyway, I 
think you'll find that, if you measure drain on your car battery with 
everything turned off is probably more than this (car radio stand-by, 
alarm, remote control... hum... can't think of anything else off hand). 
While I haven't done it, 20 or 30 ma would not concern me. Anyone ever 
measure their battery current while the car is off?


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hi,
I havemeasured the standby current of the K3 at around 7mA. 
Is this typical ? Might be aproblem for floks wo leavethe 
radio connected t oa 12 car battery for extended periods? 



Bob ZD8RH
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Re: [Elecraft] K1:potential new product

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi,

   Besides the current issue, has anyone used this device? My limited 
experience with audio DSP's (GAP's Hear It inline module) is that they 
work reasonably well for moderate to strong signals. But, when you get 
into the low signal strength area and high noise, the seem to cut out 
parts of the signal. Moderate and strong signals are okay.


   Any comments?

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Benny Aumala wrote:

To have a DSP Noice Reduction and AF-filter
in K1 you might put this Low Power Board inside K1:

http://www.sgcworld.com/ADSPProductPage.html


Benny   oh9nb

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Re: [Elecraft] dipole antenna efficiency

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

David,

   Actually, if you follow some of the other related articles Lloyd 
wrote, the effect of this design seems to approximate a full wave dipole 
with a device about 2% of a wave length. That is, a 40 meter antenna 
about 3 feel long. He also purports a kind of folded antenna for 80 
meters at about the same length. Wow. The possibility of a 6 foot long 
160 meter antenna that works. I am definitely intrigued!


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

David Cutter wrote:
Ooops.  I must apologise for my mistake:  I've read the article in 
more detail and Lloyd is not feeding a small antenna, he is using the 
feeder as the antenna by deliberately unbalancing it with a terminal 
unit to obtain maximum current at the far end of the feeder.  
Presumably this would then be elevated to a convenient point for 
maximum effect.


David
G3UNA

Here is an interesting antenna made by Lloyd Butler VK5BR.  It uses 
open wire feeder to a VERY small antenna.


http://users.tpg.com.au/users/ldbutler/ReverseFeedTopLoading.htm

David
G3UNA


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Re: [Elecraft] antennas

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Shaun,

   It sounds like you're wiring the shielded twisted pair like an 
extension of the feed coax. Remember, anything that's shielded is 
designed to keep the signal traveling on it from radiating. But, I may 
be misunderstanding your description. While there are several antenna 
designs that use coax as a radiator (see: 
http://www.hamuniverse.com/bazooka.html), their claim to fame is broad 
band, low SWR, not size.


There are many limited space antennas (see this Google search: 
http://www.google.com/search?hl=enclient=firefox-arls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficialq=antenna+design+%22limited+space%22btnG=Search), 
but YMMV (You Mileage May Vary). I stumbled across this small antenna 
that seems to have some good reviews: http://www.tak-tenna.com/ . At any 
rate, those should give you some ideas about antennas.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Shaun Oliver wrote:
Hi all, I'm sorry to bring up this off topic subject, but I have a 
question for those of you that like to cobel together your own antennas.
I have here some wire htat has 2 center cores and an outer brade. this 
in turn is covered by an outer foil and then insulated. what I'd like 
to know, if I were to attach some coax to one end of this wire, center 
core to center core and brade to brade, etc, would it be sufficent to 
pass as a dipole or am I kidding myself? basically wwhat I'd like to 
know is if it will work. I'm strapped for space here so intend on 
aquiring some electrical piping and coiling the wire around it and 
sealing it from wear and tear by the elements. if you could, please 
kindly write me off list as I don't want to clutter the list up too 
much with off topic posts. my apologies for this one as I wasn't sure 
where elseI could take this one.

thanks in advance.
shaun
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Re: [Elecraft] Which Heil Prosets should we carry?

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Jim,

   I can think of a few good reasons, the first is one stop shopping. 
That is, convenience. The second is, if the radio manufacture caries a 
compatible product, you are assured that it will be configured correctly 
and have the same general quality and performance levels. And while yes, 
you could go direct to the manufacture, it's sometimes nice to have that 
little funky E on an OEM version of the same thing. Every time you 
raise a Icon, Yaesu, Kenwood or other branded mike to use it, the one 
thing you'll be reminded of is the manufacturer. I would expect that 
none of them make their own elements. I think the advertising value of 
an OEM microphone alone is worth the trouble.


   ... IMNSHO (In My Not So Humble Opinion)...

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Jim McDonald wrote:

Why carry any microphones (or keys, for that matter)?  Why act as a retailer
for any standard accessories that can be purchased from dealers or the
manufacturer?  It seems a distraction to me. 


Jim N7US
 
 


-Original Message-


Since the K3 is also compatible with the other Heil Proset boom mic 
headsets that use the HC4 and HC5 elements, which model does everyone 
like? Any favorite models?


Its not practical for us to carry them all, but I'd like to add at least 
one or two of the more popular versions to our product list.


73, Eric  WA6HHQ




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Re: [Elecraft] Another KX1 question

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Luc,

   You can change the display time on the KX-1 between 5 and 60 seconds 
or always on. See page 65 of the owners manual under LED.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

luc Favre wrote:

When my KX1 switch from transmit to receive the display remains about 2
seconds blank before redisplaying the frequency. Is this behaviour correct ?
I'm afraid ist is. I'm right ?
Thanks for replies.
Luc/F6HJO/HB9ABB


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for December 16th 17th, 2007

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Kevin,

   Try this: http://hamcall.net/call?callsign=ja7axn

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Kevin Rock wrote:

Good Evening,
   It worked!  Moving the forty meter net forward in time allowed many more to check in.  Signals were great here but some of the reports for me were not as good.  Where I was giving a 579 I was getting a 559 with QSB.  Oh well, it worked as well as it could.  From my afternoon's reading I found the sun may be starting up again.  Plus the shortest day of the year is close at hand.  It can only get better from here on out; unless there is a solar storm.  Even that improves conditions after thing settle down.  
   One new K3 on the list so they are slowing leaking out to the public.  Guess most of them are going to non-CW operators.  I did get a DX contact at the end of the twenty meter net: JA7AXN.  He gave me a 559 too.  His contact information on QRZ is very sparse.  What is the URL for JARL (I think that's right)?  He said QTH Fukishima but there was a little QSB along with some QRN so I may have missed a letter.  His name was Numa of which I am sure.  Any assistance?

   Yesterday, while testing propagation on 40 meters, I thought I was about to 
work some DX when I heard 6E4LM work RZ0AF.  After I got done with 6E4LM I 
found I should have chased RZ0AF instead :)  Even though I have most areas of 
Russia it is fun to work another.  6E4LM is operating from an island off Baja 
California which is not all that far from me.  Working Vermont is further!  Now 
that my K2 has been upgraded to the B modifications I should try a little 
DXing.  Can anyone give me some time?
   The lists =

On 14050.50 kHz at 2300z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
W0CZ - Ken - ND - K2 - 1031
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
K9ZTV - Kent - MO - K3 - 0021
NO8V - John - MI - K2
K8DD - Hank - MI - K2 - 850
AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553
K2HYD - Ray - NC - KX1 - 608
KS7D - Mike - FL - K3 - 118QNI #5!
K6DGW - Fred - CA - K2 - 4398
KT5E - Jay - CO - K2 - 5037
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
N0AR - Scott - MN - K2 - 4866  QNI #90!!!
JA7AXN - Numa - Japan

On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
W6ZH - Pete - CA - K1 - 553QNI #85!!!
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798  QNI #105
NO8V - John - MI - K2  QNI #10!!
W0JFR - John - CO - K2 - 4507
KT5E - Jay - CO - 5037
AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K2 - 5345
K9DMV - Joe - IL - K2 - 5628
NK6A - Don - CA - K2 - 1217
K8DD - Hank - MI - K2 - 850 

   Any corrections or additions to the above lists?  Send them to me and I'll fix the database.  Thank you for the fine turnout this evening.  There was some noise, some QSB, and a little QRM but all in all it was a good time.  Ah, just looked at the calendar: next Sunday is my sister's birthday.  I had better not tell you how old she is because she may hurt me but she is five years older than me :)  Since her birthday is two days before Christmas folks would give her one gift for both holidays.  She has been upset over that for as long as I've known her!  
   Until next week stay well and stay warm,

  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

P.S. Today is Ludwig van Beethoven's 237th Birthday.  Happy Birthday Ludwig!  
His Seventh symphony is playing as I write.
   KJR

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Transverter interface

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Mike,

   Just a thought: Could you have the unit shipped to whoever you're 
visiting? If it's a business trip, you might be able to have it dropped 
at the hotel or held for pickup at the local UPS or find someone in 
one of the cities you're gong to be in and have it shipped to them...?


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

AD6XY - Mike wrote:
Does anyone have a spare transverter interface KXV60? 


The background to this is that I was thinking of buying one via Elecraft,
but unfortunately the the shipping is only $25, the least worst option is US
Postal service, which to the UK means delivery by the dreadful Parcelforce*.
That will add another $16 to the cost, so $139 for a $89 item, plus of
course 17.5% VAT added to the total. That is nearly double what it would
cost in the US.

I would rather avoid all that but I don't expect to visit the US until May.
Hence the request, has anyone got one they no longer need - or never built.

Mike

*Parcelforce are a UK company. They charge a fortune for customs clearance -
on all items, regardless of cost, as they make a large profit. Their minimum
charge in £8 ($16) and they also hold items up for several days while they
send a letter  and the charge is processed. They will then only deliver to
an address with a signature so someone has to be is - and of course, they
can not let you know when the delivery will be.
  

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Re: [Elecraft] AGC Threshold Ok! (was Re: K2: AGC Threshold Too Low?)

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Sarah,

   While I'm not familiar with the VX-7R and don't own a K2, it sounds 
like things are working. If you receive something from the noise 
generator and the signal generator (particularly if you switch the 
latter to 1 micro-volt), your rig is probably working correctly. I don't 
know how much that will change when you have completed the radio. I'm 
told that in a properly adjusted (and complete?) radio, a 1 micro-volt 
signal should register about S-3 and 50 micro-volt should be something 
like 20 db over 9. Part of what you are experiencing is the relatively 
poor HF band conditions and part is from the low gain antenna. If you 
tune around during the day, you should probably hear *something* in at 
least the 40 meter CW portion...


   Hope that helps! Have fun.

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Sarah K wrote:

Hi All,

Good news... I got my K2's replacement voltage regulator (LM2930T-8) 
from Elecraft on Friday. Today I took out the old one and put in the 
new one... the output of the voltage regulator is now 8.04 volts, 
which is a whole lot better than the 7.53 volts I had gotten before! 
And after adjusting R1, the AGC threshold is reading 3.80, exactly 
where it should be!


Elecraft also sent me a replacement R116 which was missing (I think!) 
so I was able to finish building Part II and move on to the alignment 
and test for Part II.


Someone on the list (NM5B) had recommend I pick up a few of the 
Elecraft mini-modules, so I ordered the noise generator, the 50uV 
signal generator, and the dummy load. I put those together today too, 
with no issues, and used them to help work through the alignment and 
test.


On the whole, I was quite happy with the results of the alignment and 
test; all of the instructions were fairly straightforward, and, even 
better, my K2 seemed to pass all of them perfectly! Yay!


And the noise generator works; I can hear the noise. The signal 
generator works, too; when I tune around 7040 kHz, I can hear the 40m 
50uV oscillator.


Now comes my strange and possibly embarrassing question...

Um... should I be able to receive anything yet? Keep in mind, this is 
my first radio... well, second, if you count my Yaesu VX-7R... and I 
don't entirely know what to expect.


I have what is probably a very bad antenna; it's just two pieces of 
random wire I had laying around, soldered onto a BNC connector, and 
draped around the room. The total length is probably 20-25 feet, which 
I *know* isn't the right length for 40 meters... but it was the 
longest wire I had laying around. When I hook it to the K2 via a 3ft 
BNC patch cable, I definitely hear an increase in the noise level in 
the headphones.


But I wasn't able to tune into anything that sounded like an actual 
transmission. No voice, no CW. I tried switching between CW, LSB, and 
USB. And I fiddled with the filter settings.


I did hear a couple different kinds of things:

I hear whistling noises that increase or decrease in pitch as I tune 
around.


I hear pops that happen when I tune across some small range of 
frequencies. These pops seem to be mostly repeatable, as if I'm 
hitting something in the same spot in the band, but I was never able 
to tune in to anything.


I do also hear several places where the noise is louder, and the 
S-meter increases by a notch or two... and once or twice I heard 
something that could possibly have been very, very garbled speech. But 
I wasn't ever able to tune into those, either, and in fact it could 
have been my imagination.


And, so far... that's about it.

Some other things that might be worth pointing out: I have a 
high-voltage transmission line and a substation about a block away 
from me... and my antenna is parallel to it. And I connected the VX-7R 
to the same antenna and it gets similar kinds of noise, and no signals 
on 40m either. Also, I'm on the 2nd floor of an apartment, and an 
outside antenna isn't going to be feasible here. I didn't try 
grounding the K2 to the electrical ground yet... I certainly can't 
install my own ground rod, either! I was running the K2 from 12 volts 
worth of D batteries, to minimize power supply noise. And I turned off 
all the fluorescent lights, which dropped the noise considerably, but 
didn't reveal anything underneath the noise.


So... does this sound appropriate given the current situation? Should 
I be hearing more than this? Am I not understanding how the K2 works? 
Am I missing something very basic about ham radio? Am I doing 
something silly? :-)


Should I try a better/different antenna? I now have about 150ft of 
12ga stranded wire that I can use for a second test  antenna; if I run 
it perpendicular to the high voltage line I think I can go 40ft in a 
mostly straight line, and probably 50ft with one right-angle bend in 
it. I can't get to 67ft without some major contortions; my apartment 
just isn't that big

Re: [Elecraft] OT - American hamming in UK

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

David and Mike,

   The eHam reviews ( http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/3856 ) seem to 
indicate that it has a loud fan. The more recent reviews (this year) 
seem to indicate more problems. I would guess, unless I had a tried and 
true PS, I'd be a little leery of taking anything on such a trip.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

David Wilburn wrote:

I have traveled with this MFJ power supply, and used it with a K2/100,
and an IC-703, without issue.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-4225MV

Adaptable power connections for other countries are available at any
office / computer store.
-  


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Thu, 2007-11-29 at 22:00 -0500, Mike Geddes wrote:
  
To my friends across the pond (and here in the states): My son and I are 
traveling to UK in mid-February to visit some family and see the country. 
Flying in to London, then heading north to Newcastle and points beyond, 
ending up in N. Scotland.  Some of my ham buddies are encouraging me to take 
a rig and do some hamming to try and make some contacts back in the states. 
If I do, I will be taking my K2/100 for the job. I have some questions in 
this regard:


1) Do you think it will be more trouble than it is worth trying to get radio 
gear through security, customs, etc?  I will have it secured in a Pelican 
type case with custom fit foam.  Just don't want a hassle in trying to get 
it in and out of the country.  2) Suggestions for a nice portable 20a 
switching power supply?  I am looking for a smaller unit I can include in 
the case with the radio. And it must have 110/220v power options.  I saw an 
Alinco that seemed to fit the bill. I welcome your ideas.  3) What type of 
power plug adapter would I need to fit the receptacles in your fair land? 
4) What antenna would you suggest . . . I am thinking about a 20 and/or 40 
meter coax fed dipole. Again, open to suggestions.  5) Any licensing tips or 
suggestions?  From what I read it appears there is a reciprocal agreement in 
place.  I just need to make sure I have a my license and a copy of the 
agreement.


Sorry if an off topic post like this is inappropriate here. I do know there 
are a number of UK hams (and Elecraft brothers) on this reflector and 
thought they may have some helpful insight.  As well as you yanks that have 
maybe already done some hamming from UK.


Thanks and 73,
Mike
N4JX

K1/4  #2319
K2/100  #6042



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Re: [Elecraft] OT - American hamming in UK

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

David,

   I guess my observation was that the reviews seemed to be less 
favorable for the more recent units. Could be just random, but then 
again, it could mean something.


   Also, when I'm going to depend on something (like using it in a trip 
as Mike is), I feel a lot better about it if it's been in use a while. 
Every piece of electronic equipment suffers from infant death. That 
is, the highest failure rate occurs at the beginning of the unit's life 
cycle. So, generally, if it makes it past a week or two, it's likely to 
last some years without trouble.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

David Wilburn wrote:

I have put quite a view hours on mine here at the house, and have taken
it on trips.  The only complaints I have, is the binding post through
holes are oriented in an odd manner, by whomever built it, and the
banana plug connections are mini-bananas.  


I took it apart to see if I could re-orient the post, and it wasn't
worth the effort, too much stuff in there.  I could not find mini-banana
connectors that were capable of carrying the load that the K2 generates.
So I often had to wrap the wire around the binding post.  Which I didn't
particularly like.  I wanted something easy on, easy off, that I didn't
have to worry about coming loose.  YMMV

I have not ever noted an issue from the fan, or had any problems with
it.  It has traveled with me when I was on the road full time, and run
radios at the house here that were on for 6 or 8 months at a time, for
packet telpac node.
-  


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Thu, 2007-11-29 at 21:37 -0600, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:
  

David and Mike,

The eHam reviews ( http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/3856 ) seem to 
indicate that it has a loud fan. The more recent reviews (this year) 
seem to indicate more problems. I would guess, unless I had a tried and 
true PS, I'd be a little leery of taking anything on such a trip.


Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com

David Wilburn wrote:


I have traveled with this MFJ power supply, and used it with a K2/100,
and an IC-703, without issue.
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/products.php?prodid=MFJ-4225MV

Adaptable power connections for other countries are available at any
office / computer store.
-  


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 S/N 5982


On Thu, 2007-11-29 at 22:00 -0500, Mike Geddes wrote:
  
  
To my friends across the pond (and here in the states): My son and I are 
traveling to UK in mid-February to visit some family and see the country. 
Flying in to London, then heading north to Newcastle and points beyond, 
ending up in N. Scotland.  Some of my ham buddies are encouraging me to take 
a rig and do some hamming to try and make some contacts back in the states. 
If I do, I will be taking my K2/100 for the job. I have some questions in 
this regard:


1) Do you think it will be more trouble than it is worth trying to get radio 
gear through security, customs, etc?  I will have it secured in a Pelican 
type case with custom fit foam.  Just don't want a hassle in trying to get 
it in and out of the country.  2) Suggestions for a nice portable 20a 
switching power supply?  I am looking for a smaller unit I can include in 
the case with the radio. And it must have 110/220v power options.  I saw an 
Alinco that seemed to fit the bill. I welcome your ideas.  3) What type of 
power plug adapter would I need to fit the receptacles in your fair land? 
4) What antenna would you suggest . . . I am thinking about a 20 and/or 40 
meter coax fed dipole. Again, open to suggestions.  5) Any licensing tips or 
suggestions?  From what I read it appears there is a reciprocal agreement in 
place.  I just need to make sure I have a my license and a copy of the 
agreement.


Sorry if an off topic post like this is inappropriate here. I do know there 
are a number of UK hams (and Elecraft brothers) on this reflector and 
thought they may have some helpful insight.  As well as you yanks that have 
maybe already done some hamming from UK.


Thanks and 73,
Mike
N4JX

K1/4  #2319
K2/100  #6042



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[Elecraft] U.N. Radio Spectrum Article

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Cross posted between SKCC and Elecraft

While it may not directly effect Amateur Radio

http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/11/15/technology/spectrum.php

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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 - Kit and Drake R7 and Orion II Comparison

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Tom,

   Interesting! I've got the XG2 and a R-4C. I was told by Rob Sherwood 
(of Sherwood engineering) that at 1 micro-volt, the meter should be at 
S-3 and 20 over when set to 50 micro-volts. Since my rig was nowhere 
near that and I couldn't seem to make it any better when adjusting it, I 
packed it up and sent it to Rob to play with. It could also be that my 
XG2 has some sort of problem too! Guess I should have sent it along for 
testing! We'll see!


   Also, just wondering what kind of S-meter readings you were getting 
at the different XG2 settings from the two rigs.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Tom Childers, N5GE wrote:

Good morning.

I finished building an XG2 last evening and used my Drake R7 and Orion II as the
test beds for the XG2.  


Results:  The R7 receives the 1 micro volt signals on all three bands better
than the Orion II (less RX noise and clearer tone).  I did not do the SN
calculations scientifically, but to my ear the R7 was the better RX.

The R7 will be 30 years old next spring and has not been aligned since the 80s.
I look forward to receiving my K3 in late January 2008.

Tom, N5GE

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] XG2 - Kit and Drake R7 and Orion II Comparison

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Wayne,

   Yeah... I was going from memory... Guess my refresh rate needs to be 
turned up... {'-)


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

wayne burdick wrote:

50 microvolts is S-9, not 20 over, in the Elecraft world  :)

I'll agree with Rob on 1 uV = about S3, though.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Nov 15, 2007, at 8:40 AM, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:


Tom,

   Interesting! I've got the XG2 and a R-4C. I was told by Rob 
Sherwood (of Sherwood engineering) that at 1 micro-volt, the meter 
should be at S-3 and 20 over when set to 50 micro-volts. Since my rig 
was nowhere near that and I couldn't seem to make it any better when 
adjusting it, I packed it up and sent it to Rob to play with. It 
could also be that my XG2 has some sort of problem too! Guess I 
should have sent it along for testing! We'll see!


   Also, just wondering what kind of S-meter readings you were 
getting at the different XG2 settings from the two rigs.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Tom Childers, N5GE wrote:

Good morning.

I finished building an XG2 last evening and used my Drake R7 and 
Orion II as the

test beds for the XG2.
Results:  The R7 receives the 1 micro volt signals on all three 
bands better
than the Orion II (less RX noise and clearer tone).  I did not do 
the SN

calculations scientifically, but to my ear the R7 was the better RX.

The R7 will be 30 years old next spring and has not been aligned 
since the 80s.

I look forward to receiving my K3 in late January 2008.

Tom, N5GE

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE

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Re: [Elecraft] Installation of a KXB30 in KX-1

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Keith,

   While I expect it wouldn't harm anything, super glue *might* have 
some effect on anything that conducts, so I'd just apply it to the big 
areas where the feet rest on bare board. Also, I don't seem to remember 
having any problems with them.


   Hope you are able to resolve your issue...

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I have a question about installing a KXB30 into my KX-1, but first...a little 
story about how much I like this radio.  Compared to most of you I am a rookie 
at the building and operating in CWbut I do enjoy it. I have had the base 
20/40 meter KX1 built for a while.  Most of my contacts have been up and down 
the East Coast here and into Canada.  I have made some nice contacts out west 
as a part of the 40M QRP Foxhunts.  I am surprised how well the low power 
works.  This Saturday I just managed to launch a wire up over a tree in the 
front near the house and then up to the peak of the roof.  It looks sort of 
like an invereted L. I pulled the wires into the house and settled in.  Decided 
to respond to a contest call on Saturday night in the OK/OM contest.  I did not 
figure I had much of a chance in reaching the op in the Czech Republic..but it 
only took a few calls.  My first DX with a KX-1.  I plan to look for more.

I finally decided to operate on the KX-1 tonight and install the KXB30.  I have 
the board pretty well installed.  It was an interesting job to line up all 
those leads in the right place...but I believe I got it.  I am ready to put it 
back together and do the tests.  The only issue is that the little rubber 
bumpers that are to be installed on the KXB30 to keep it from touching the case 
have very little stickiness to them. I don't want to be shorting things out.  
The bumpers just come off. They don't have a good surface to stick to since 
they have to cover some of the solder joints and stick to that and the board.  
Is it OK to just use a little super glue or another expoxy to get them to stay 
in place?  Would I damage the PCB?

Any and all advice appreciated.  I cannot wait to get this radio on 30M.

73 de Keith KB3ILS
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[Elecraft] Re: [skcc] SS Strangenss

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi!

   Offset issue resolved: Mostly, it was an operator error! (ME!). 
Well, the rig seems to be operating within calibration. While I have a 
question or two (I posed them to Don), it looks like the mystery is 
fixed... for now!


   Thanks for all the comments.

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:


Hi,

First, FYI: this is cross-posted to the Elecraft reflector and the
SKCC group.

I played on the SS the weekend. Attained 63 contacts QRP (KX-1). I
was mostly giving out points as I probably won't submit my log... But,
anyway...

While attempting to respond to a station, I was using a spectrum
program so I knew I was on the calling stations frequency (in this case,
I believe the KX-1 uses a 600 Hz offset - I've tested it with another
radio and it seems correct). So, here's the strange part: If I zero
beat the calling station, there was about a 1 in 10 chance they'd hear
me! If, on-the-other-paw, I tuned to about 450 or 500 Hz, they seemed to
hear me okay! And this included stations who were answering on their
exact frequency! I first noted this when calling one station, but heard
my call at about a 100 Hz tone (which meant my sig was 500 Hz below
him). I thought, Huh? Well, it works out well, because the bandwidth
filters seem centered on about 450 Hz when at it's narrowest, but the
question is, why was this? I mean I fully expected stations to be
listening on their own frequency first, then offsets. Or, am I missing
something? {'-)

Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:kurtt%40pinrod.com
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com http://pinrod.com

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[Elecraft] SS Strangenss

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Hi,

   First, FYI: this is cross-posted to the Elecraft reflector and the 
SKCC group.


   I played on the SS the weekend. Attained 63 contacts QRP (KX-1). I 
was mostly giving out points as I probably won't submit my log... But, 
anyway...


   While attempting to respond to a station, I was using a spectrum 
program so I knew I was on the calling stations frequency (in this case, 
I believe the KX-1 uses a 600 Hz offset - I've tested it with another 
radio and it seems correct). So, here's the strange part: If I zero 
beat the calling station, there was about a 1 in 10 chance they'd hear 
me! If, on-the-other-paw, I tuned to about 450 or 500 Hz, they seemed to 
hear me okay! And this included stations who were answering on their 
exact frequency! I first noted this when calling one station, but heard 
my call at about a 100 Hz tone (which meant my sig was 500 Hz below 
him). I thought, Huh? Well, it works out well, because the bandwidth 
filters seem centered on about 450 Hz when at it's narrowest, but the 
question is, why was this? I mean I fully expected stations to be 
listening on their own frequency first, then offsets. Or, am I missing 
something? {'-)


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com
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Re: [Elecraft] SS Strangenss

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Don,

   Humm... Well, I did a few tests and, unless I've messed up a lot 
(Who? Me?!!), looks like the transmit frequency is *not* offset by 600 
(as the STP adjustment indicated). Looks like it's more like 200 Hz. 
And, if I change the offset to 500 (lowest it'll go), I'm not sure there 
is any change. I'll have to play with this more. But, assuming my 
numbers are about right, I'm fairly sure there isn't anything I can do 
about it... No?


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Kurt,

Check your KX1 menu setting for the STP parameter - the KX1 should 
offset by that amount during transmit.


When you said I knew I was on the calling stations frequency - do 
you mean that you tuned the station to the same audio frequency as 
your STP menu parameter?  If so, then your transmit signal should be 
right on the other stations frequency.  The menu setting tells the 
firmware how much to offset but there is an expectation that you will 
also tune the other station to that same audio pitch.


Be aware that many other operators do not know how to zero beat, nor 
what it really means - they have been using transceivers too long.  In 
fact, I recall one ham who stated I can hear him in my receiver, so 
he will hear me!  Maybe it is time for zero beating lessons on the 
air (sorry for the rant).


You may want to run a test if you have any doubts - tune in a signal 
on another receiver and tune the same signal on your KX1 - then 
without changing the KX1 VFO, connect a dummy load and transmit while 
listening to your signal in the other receiver - if everything is 
correct, you should hear your signal at the same note as the original 
signal you tuned to.


73,
Don W3FPR

Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:

Hi,

   First, FYI: this is cross-posted to the Elecraft reflector and the 
SKCC group.


   I played on the SS the weekend. Attained 63 contacts QRP (KX-1). 
I was mostly giving out points as I probably won't submit my log... 
But, anyway...


   While attempting to respond to a station, I was using a spectrum 
program so I knew I was on the calling stations frequency (in this 
case, I believe the KX-1 uses a 600 Hz offset - I've tested it with 
another radio and it seems correct). So, here's the strange part: 
If I zero beat the calling station, there was about a 1 in 10 chance 
they'd hear me! If, on-the-other-paw, I tuned to about 450 or 500 Hz, 
they seemed to hear me okay! And this included stations who were 
answering on their exact frequency! I first noted this when calling 
one station, but heard my call at about a 100 Hz tone (which meant my 
sig was 500 Hz below him). I thought, Huh? Well, it works out well, 
because the bandwidth filters seem centered on about 450 Hz when at 
it's narrowest, but the question is, why was this? I mean I fully 
expected stations to be listening on their own frequency first, then 
offsets. Or, am I missing something? {'-)





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Re: [Elecraft] Interesting K3 Pan Adapter Development

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Frank, Et Al,

   Okay. I have to fess up... I'm a programmer (or am trying to make 
some money doing it!). The real question is, how well is the interface 
written? I've seen really, really bad interfaces. Better off with pen 
and paper. Or, to keep the analogy, better off with knobs. But, on the 
other hand, a well designed interface makes the task almost a joy. And, 
in fact, even in the real world of knobs, there are good and bad 
designs. In the long run, I expect that flexibility, price and 
customization of computer interfaces will, for many Amateur 
applications, outstrip the physical interface. Myself, I like the 
physical. I guess in that way, I'm old school. I like dipping meters 
and turning knobs. There is a challenge and a fuller relationship 
between operator and machine when there one is more involved. This is 
also one of the reasons I like kits and straight key CW. Of course, 
there are things I do on the computer that help operation, like logging 
and a spectrum programs (yeah, I'm a geek too!).


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC (KX-1)
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Frank Hunter wrote:

Bill Tippett wrote:



Hi Frank,


Hi Bill!


I would ask the article's author Vic K1LT who
has been there and done that.  I notice many who are no
knobs advocates are never seen high in contest standings.
K1LT actually does place well in contests so I tend to attach
some credibility to his comments.

I found 112 K1LT contest results hits below:

http://dayton.contesting.com/archives//html/3830/

...but I don't see any results for GI4NKB.  When I begin to
see some no knobs folks placing high in actual results,
then I will become a true believer.  Until then, I am like
the guys from Missouri...Show Me.


Thanks for that Bill. I hadn't realised until you pointed it out that 
to win a contest I don't need huge amounts of real estate, an antenna 
farm, massive power and skill. All I need are knobs! Rather than 
avoiding the issues raised and cherry picking K1LT's article what you 
should be doing is asking yourself why is K1LT using SDR? think 
about it. Oh and please don't label me as a no knobs person, I've 
plenty of radios with knobs on them including K2's. I simply find as 
one who has used computers for fun and work for years that it is no 
big deal using a computer to control a radio it is in truth very 
intuitive and quick. If you'd read my original post properly you would 
realise that if contesting with a computer based logger you're 
effectively a no knobs person anyway! Whether you care to admit it 
or not :)


 Yes it will because then more people will be staring at a spectrum 
scope

and clicking on it to qsy to any intersting looking signals but
wondering why they then have to leave this environment to fiddle with
knobs

The beauty of a K3 / Panadapter is that you can use
mouse, knobs or both.  You are not forced to only either/or.


And neither are you forced to do either with a Flex/PowerSDR combo.

73, Frank GI4NKB

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 power on problem

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Mike,

   The first thing that usually comes up is the standard answer of 
making sure all the solder joints are solid. Sometimes, just reheating 
them will make the difference. It's possible that you do have some sort 
of component failure, but I wouldn't expect it to be intermittent. That 
is, most of the time something fails, it's dead. If you are unfortunate 
enough to have a part that is static damaged, this sort of behavior is 
possible (referring to the memory loss). I'm not sure I'd be thinking 
filter cap (particularly if the noise is 60 cycle) since you get the 
same thing on battery. Anyway, that's just a few quick thoughts. Hope it 
helps. Let us know what you find.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Mike Scott wrote:

My 3-band KX1 does not always come fully on when I hit the power switch.

I am plugged into external 14 VDC power. I also have the same symptoms on
battery power.

Symptoms are as follows:

Log lamp always works

Sometimes power comes on normally with the frequency shown in the display
and band noise and signals in the headphones.

Sometimes when I turn it on I hear noise, but not band noise and the display
remains dark. The noise right now is accompanied with a start up buzz that
fades to white noise with a dark display.

After a lot of power cycling when I am trouble shooting the KX1 starts up
every time and the start up buzz goes away and the display works.

One more symptom that is odd, I just used recall memory to tune to 7.040
MHz. I then cycled the power. The radio came up on 6.0691 MHz, it forgot the
last frequency used. 


No matter what the prior frequency is the radio comes up at the following
frequencies:
40M -  6.0691
30M - 10.1068
20M - 14.0054

The buzzing noise makes me think an electrolytic is going somewhere.

I am not sure where to start, anyone have a pointer?

Mike Scott - AE6WA
Tarzana, CA (DM04 / near LA)
QRP-ARCI #12326/ KX1  #1311/ Swan 350C


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Re: [Elecraft] Finger Dimple

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

David,

   Not sure about some of it, but WD-40 does loosen many adhesives 
and will probably work on that one. Also, most adhesives of this type 
can be removed by rubbing them off just using your finger.


   As to the rest, I have no clue!

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

David N. wrote:

Hi All I My finger Dimple on the k2 come off on me
during field day and the little double sided adhesive 
strip folded up.

So. How can I Get that off without tearing up or
defacing the knob?
And where can I locate the double side stuff that was
used to begin with. I do not wish to super Glue it
back on. Any suggestions. Also I was thinking of
machining the knob to recess the finger dimple. Has
anyone out there did that? I am not sure how solid the
knob is or if has a hollow core.
Thanks
David KR4OW 
K24320



  

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 RX Audio

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Tree,

   I'm a little unsure of what I was hearing (except your call!). Maybe 
it's just me (or my ears or the stereo! hi hi!), but I can just barely 
make out that there is another station.


   Regarding the noise: Would it be possible to do an A/B test 
(with/without noise)? I think that would showcase the K3 filters more 
effectively.


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Tree wrote:

Here is a sound sample from the K3.  It is best listened to in Stereo.

This took place on 160 meters about 20 minutes ago.  I am still walking
on air.

http://www.kkn.net/~tree/160/3b7cQSO.mp3

There is normally an electric fence in the direction I was listening to,
but notice you can't hear it.  :-)

73 Tree N6TR
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Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

John, Et Al,

   I am reading some really good ideas. Here's one I used...

   While building my KX-1: When I conducted my inventory, I taped the 
resistors, inductors and capacitors right to the pages of the book. 
Okay... A little funky, but 1) I knew the inventory was correct when I 
was done (no open spaces!) and 2) where there is a question about a 
component (some are different wattages or unusual markings), it helped 
to see that I already had a space filled. For large quantity 
components, I had old plastic pill containers (I tend to knock things 
over). 3) When the assembly instructions called for a component, I 
pulled if from the tape. I could have also checked off the component ID 
on the page. As it happens, I didn't do the checking off part, but a 
more Monkish person might, and it might help keeping one from using the 
wrong part (i.e., looking for L2 and seeing that it's missing...). 
Anyway, it is a more through double check.


   Hope that's helpful to someone... {'-)

   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

John Huggins wrote:

OK so I have decided to buy the base K2 kit and build it along with my
son; He needs to see a process like this unfold.

I have read the various FAQs, tips, etc.

I am not new to kit building.

We have a good soldering station.

If the K2 works out well we will use it on CW for a while and then add
enhancements: SSB first then others (perhaps DSP, 160M, 60M-Xvrter,
100Watts)..

Are there tools or tips I am missing before I drop the coin?

John
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Re: [Elecraft] Conception of a K2

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

Keith,

   You are, of course, right, but 1) I do have an ESD mat (and use 
it!), and, 2) no, I didn't tape down the sensitive components. I will 
say this though: Doing this helped a lot because there are several 
components that could have easily been confused (some inductors and a 
resistor or two), which were not. As far as I know, resistors, 
capacitors and most (if not all) diodes will not be damaged by ESD. 
Note: Diodes will either conduct when forward biased or zener and 
conduct when backwards biased - thought I'm not sure about special 
diodes [barrier, shotkey (sp?), and the like]. And, normal ESD damage is 
caused by high potentials arching within the component. I believe diodes 
have plenty of capacity to absorb the power, either forward or reversed 
biased. Capacitors will simply charge (which is why attaching a 
capacitor to a Van de Graph generator is a Bozo no-no). At any rate, I 
have never heard of any of these types of components being damaged by 
ESD: Has anyone?


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com

Darwin, Keith wrote:

Tape - cardboard - plastic - paper - A

My ESD training (what little I've had) is causing all sorts of alarm
bells to go off!  I fear that many of us have taken techniques that
worked fine in the pre-ESD days and are applying them in cases where
they are dangerous.

Yea, I know that caps (most at least) and resistors are not ESD
sensitive, but that partially assembled K2 board, already populated with
some ICs is.

When I did my K2, I had it on a grounded ESD mat and I wore a wrist
strap the whole time.  I stored all my parts in metal mixing bowls or
just laid them on the mat.  I'm sure this was overkill but it was easier
to use good ESD practice than to try to discipline myself to apply it
only when it was needed.

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -

-Original Message-
While building my KX-1: When I conducted my inventory, I taped the
resistors, inductors and capacitors right to the pages of the book. 
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Re: [Elecraft] ESD

[Kurt Pawlikowski]

John,

   Interesting. The link is related to CMOS, which is extremely 
sensitive to ESD.


   Capacitors: I don't understand how a cap can be damaged unless ESD 
has a transient faster than the cap can charge or there is enough 
current to charge the cap beyond it's limits. But isn't that what the 
cap is supposed to do? Yes, once the voltage across the cap is exceeded, 
all bets are off!


   If you're talking about caps in tube equipment, I think the problem 
there would more likely be explained by degrading/defective components, 
or components that were exposed to high voltage, relatively high power 
discharges (i.e., not ESD).


   I can understand thin film resistors (the higher the resistance, the 
more likely an arc). Not sure about diodes. I'm thinking that if the ESD 
has a transient faster than the diode can handle, maybe. It just seems 
to me that if forward biased, it simply conducts. If backward biased, it 
acts like a zener (which conducts).


   Some interesting links...

   http://www.aiinet.com/documents/html/AI180hwman/m0699/aihxa.htm
   http://www.electrostatics.net/library/articles/ESD_damage.htm
   http://www.evaluationengineering.com/archive/articles/1102esd.htm
   http://focus.ti.com/lit/an/ssya010/ssya010.pdf
   http://www.ce-mag.com/archive/03/03/henry.html
   http://www.e-gizmo.com/ARTICLES/ESD/ESD2.HTM
   
http://electrostaticsolutions.blogspot.com/2005/06/are-capacitors-esd-suceptible.html


   Some of these have pictures (always interesting!). The last link 
talks about capacitors. One of the links is very IEEE technical. More 
fuel for the fire! {'-)


   Regards,

   kurtt

   Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
   The Pinrod Corporation
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   (773) 284-9500
   http://pinrod.com
  
John Huggins wrote:



John Huggins wrote:
While it is true caps can be relatively sturdy, capacitors are 
damaged by ESD if the high voltage appears across their leads despite 
what one might think of charge time.  Any usual thinking of how 
caps work begins to break down once the peak voltage (not rated 
voltage, but whatever the much higher real peak voltage is - ie 
400-1000V for a 100V ceramic)  is exceeded even with the low low 
power of an ESD event.  Audiophile Tube Stereo freaks recognize caps 
that have been zapped because they develop pinholes in their 
dielectric and begin to add pop and hiss to their sound.


Thin film resistors are also easily hurt by ESD.  Same with diodes.

NASA is particularly anal about this (for obvious reasons) and have 
this to share...


 http://workmanship.nasa.gov/wppr_comp_c2mos.jsp

While it is true not all ESD events cause damage. The outcome of a 
discharge to a sensitive device or assembly will depend on many 
factors, including:

- device sensitivity
- severity of ESD stress
- actual strike site

Some components handle ESD better than others, but none are entirely 
immune.


If we are to assume Elecraft handles their parts with the care the 
parts probably received on their way to Elecraft (I hope this is so) 
and then delivered them to us with the same care, we should not break 
the chain of proper handling.


ESD is so easy to do correctly why not treat all the parts with the 
same level of respect.  The chances of success are probably 
measurably better.


John
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