Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 timing settings IC-7300

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 FWIW, the FTdx101 series has among the very best CW bandwidths when set to 8 
msec risetime.  It beats the Kenwood TS890S by a good margin. I have a 60wpm 
spectrum analyzer sweep showing that.  It was improved with the May 2021 
firmware release which was after ARRL testing.  This is a far cry from most all 
prior Yaesu rigs.  

On Thursday, July 28, 2022 at 11:05:08 AM MDT, Lyn Norstad 
 wrote:  
 
 Thanks for the data, Jim (and Victor) -

Even though it significantly pre-dates the IC-7300, I respect your work and
will assume it has relevance.

So I am resetting the CW Rise Time to 8ms ... its slowest setting.

That being said, I so seldom use CW it's pretty much a non-issue for me.

73
Lyn, WØLEN



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 2:55 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-500 timing settings IC-7300

On 7/27/2022 12:08 PM, Lyn Norstad wrote:
> CW Rise Time set to the default, 4ms (range 2ms - 8ms).

This is MUCH too fast, very clicky. Even the slowest is much too clicky.

See my analysis of ARRL Lab Test results done in 2014. This is all THEIR 
data, that they sent me in electronic form.

  http://k9yc.com/TXNoise.pdf

Kenwood is the cleanest of the JA transceivers, but the cleanest ones by 
a lot are Elecraft K3 and later, where they developed non-adjustable 
keying which Wayne has describes as "sigmoidal" or "raised cosine" 
shaping. He introduced it in 2007; Flex 6000 series when tested by ARRL 
(after my report) was pretty nasty, but they subsequently followed 
Elecraft's lead and got a LOT cleaner.

What we CALL CW is really 100% amplitude modulation of a carrier by a 
rectangular wave train, and the harmonics from the transition excite IMD 
that is heard as clicks. I demonstrated this in another report presented 
using Power Point, but not intented as a Power Point talk. It's simply a 
convenient way of presenting the data.

http://k9yc.com/FTDX5000_Report.pdf

Slide 13 shows the unmodulated carrier, slide 14 shows an FTDX5000 
sending dits at roughly 30 wpm.

I purposely leaked an early version of this report to someone I 
suspected would make sure that Yaesu saw it. Within days of my 
publishing it, Yaesu released the firmware update documented by later 
slides.

The only reason for giving hams adjustable rise time is MARKETING!

BTW -- there are other very slick elements of Wayne's designs that 
drastically reduce their transmitted and received phase noise, most of 
which date back to 2007 in the earliest K3.

You can see my earlier measurements of a neighbor's 7600 as he varied 
rise time. He's a GOOD neighbor; I have another with a 7600 who, for 
years, chewed up 10-20 kHz of the band on CW; K6XX and I, both running a 
K3 legal limit, 3 miles apart, can work within 500 Hz of each other and 
hear each other as simply another loud signal. These data are with the 
original K3, long before the improved synth board.

73, Jim K9YC

73, Jim K9YC

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] switchbox KX3 to signalink/mike+headphones

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I built something like that using two 2 pole 4 position wafer switches to 
switch between 4 radios.  One switch is for the input, and the the other for 
the audio output.  I also put a 2 pole 2 throw toggle switch in the audio 
output to switch between phones and a small audio amplifier driving a spkr. You 
can see it in my QRZ.com photo mounted under the shelf below the Daiwa meter. 

W7HV

On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 06:40:54 AM MDT, Joe Subich, W4TV 
 wrote:  
 
 

On 2022-07-23 9:34 PM, Brian Hunt wrote:
> Pretty simple home brew project, I would think. Four stereo jacks, a 
> DPDT switch, a small box and a capacitor should do it.
It would take a four pole double throw (mic, PTT, L Audio, R Audio)
or two DPDT switches.

73,

    ... Joe, W4TV

On 2022-07-23 9:34 PM, Brian Hunt wrote:
> Pretty simple home brew project, I would think. Four stereo jacks, a DPDT 
> switch, a small box and a capacitor should do it. The capacitor is to block 
> the mic bias from going to the Signalink. You would still likely have to 
> adjust levels whenever switching. Would take some study to get all the 
> connections right.
> 
> 73,
> Brian, K0DTJ
> 
>> On Jul 23, 2022, at 17:29, Andrew (A.J.) Stockton via Elecraft 
>>  wrote:
>>
>> You can check out a few on Amazon - common one headset between computer for 
>> web calls and second for gaming systems
>>
>> Nobsound Little Bear MC1023 2-Way Audio Microphone Headset Speaker MIC 
>> Switcher Headphone Switch Hub Volume Control Controller Selector 3.5mm RCA 
>> https://a.co/d/7lg6yyp
>>
>> A.J. Stockton
>>
>>> On Jul 23, 2022, at 7:33 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft 
>>>  wrote:
>>>
>>> For sure - I’d like to switch my Yamaha CM-500 headset between my K4D and 
>>> an Icom IC-705. I currently have to use two separate headsets - a PITA to 
>>> say the least.
>>>
>>> Jim / K7TXA
>>>
> On Jul 23, 2022, at 5:26 PM, Julia Tuttle  wrote:

 I would be interested in such a gadget too! And it's not (just) lazy, it
 also saves wear on the jacks. :)

> On Sat, Jul 23, 2022 at 1:49 PM  wrote:
>
> Is there a product, some kind of a little box,  that allows me to quickly
> switch the KX3 mic/phones between SignaLink and  my mic and speakers ?
>
> I know it sounds lazy !
>

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Re: [Elecraft] ARRL Antenna Book (and other antenna books)

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 The Antenna Book is really good. I find antenna design and experimentation one 
of the more interesting/fun aspects of ham radio and have gotten many of ARRL's 
(RSGB, etc) other antenna books over the years: Antenna Compendium 1-8, various 
Antenna Classics, stealth antennas, HF Antennas for All Locations, Rothhammel's 
Antenna Book, Antenna Experimenters Guide, recently Antenna Physics... Of 
course I've only tried and experimented with an infinitesimal number of these 
designs but I'm always learning something reading about them. .    

On Thursday, May 12, 2022, 06:15:06 AM MDT, Rick Robinson 
 wrote:  
 
 I used an online question site for my Extra Class study years ago and this
site showed which questions I missed. I used my Handbook and Antenna book
to study up on the questions I missed or was unsure of. Without them I
would still be guessing and not know a darn thing. Two best investments I
ever made in Amateur Radio. Even if you can only get an old book , it is
still probably 90% revelent. Newer books will cover newer digital comms.

On Thu, May 12, 2022 at 2:27 AM Walter Underwood 
wrote:

> > On May 11, 2022, at 10:40 PM, Jim Brown 
> wrote:
> >
> > And I agree with W4TV about the usefulness of the Antenna Book. I
> contribute both to it and to the Handbook. These three ARRL books have been
> central to my learning, in some ways, at least as important as my EE
> education.
> >
> > 73, Jim K9YC
>
> I changed the subject line because this has dritted away from the dipole
> quandry.
>
> The ARRL Antenna Book is a rare kind of technical writing that works for
> many different levels of expertise. I learned things from it when I was 14
> and I’ve learned things from it when I was 65. To be fair, I was a 14 year
> old who got a slide rule for Christmas. Now I’m a 65 year old with a BSEE.
> I can’t think of another technical book that works from 8th grade to
> post-grad. Maybe the CRC Handbook of Chemistry and Physics.
>
> The ON4UN book is also excellent. The only similarly detailed discussion
> of radial systems seems to be in some AM broadcast manual that costs
> hundreds of dollars.
>
> The only topic not covered in those two books is grounding and bonding,
> which is covered in the also excellent ARRL Grounding and Bonding for the
> Radio Amateur. Yeah, the ARRL does not do creative book titles.
>
> I guess I should get a current Handbook. I wore out my 1970 edition.
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
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-- 
Rick Genesis 1-29
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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping via UPS - A Lesson Learned the Hard Way

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Yep.  I have accounts with USPS, UPS, and FedEx.  The benefits are manifold. 
It's very easy to compare shipping methods/rates, generate shipping labels, and 
the rates are generally lower.  Each have apps and websites were anything 
you're shipping or receiving automatically shows up with the latest tracking 
info and shipment details.  You can choose to get various notifications and/or 
emails (or not). If I'm shipping valuable things, I'll take it somewhere that 
can give me a receipt.  For lesser valued items, I'll just as often just hand 
it to the USPS/UPS/FedEx driver when I see them in the neighborhood.  On one 
memorable occasion I had an item to ship UPS and happened to pull up along the 
right side of a UPS truck at a stoplight.  I opened my window, showed him my 
box and tossed it into his open door.  He picked it up and gave me a thumbs up. 

On Tuesday, April 12, 2022, 05:29:03 AM MDT, Andrew Moore 
 wrote:  
 
 >> I fail to understand the hardship of using the delete key.

> Same here

One could say the same about going to the UPS Store and simply paying them
for their service ;)

73,
Andrew NV1B
..


On Mon, Apr 11, 2022 at 10:40 PM Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On 4/11/2022 5:30 PM, Wes wrote:
> > I fail to understand the hardship of using the delete key.
>
> Same here
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Sounds pretty similar to what I did.  The white rectangle in my photo is a 
piece of white sticker vinyl stuck to the PCB under the area where the LCD 
mounts  The two LEDs were sanded down with a Dremel tool and sanding drum to 
get the light to diffuse and also to make them small enough to shine behind the 
LCD panel.  The two LEDs and a 680ohm current limiting resistor are all wired 
in series and draw a total of ~12ma off the 12V supply.  Parts and wires are 
held in place by dabs of hot glue. 

Here's a closeup of an original and modified LED. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vsf64g05jgc4mbl/100_0054.JPG?dl=0




On Saturday, December 4, 2021, 11:09:25 AM MST, David Gilbert 
 wrote:  
 
 
I made my own backlight for my K1 before the Elecraft version came out.  
It was actually more of a sidelight, but it works fine.  I took a white 
LED, sanded the plastic case to make it more diffusive, and fed it off 
the 12 volt buss with a current source made from a gate-source connected 
FET.  It wasn't difficult to do.

I don't remember which FET I used, but an LM334 (very inexpensive TO-92 
current source IC) and a 1/4 watt resistor would work even better, and 
today's LEDs are certainly much brighter than the ones I had available 
back when I did this.  Better choice of colors as well.  ;)

73,
Dave   AB7E


On 12/4/2021 8:57 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Ken,
>
> The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
> the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 
> strip is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>>   Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
>> This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
>>
>> Ken
>> Elecraft K1 nr. 260
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LCD BaCKLIGHT

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I did a backlight on my K1 ~20 years ago that worked out well. The key was 
getting a transreflective LCD panel so the light would show through. The 
original panel was opaque.  Here's a couple of pix:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pu01s46xylba2se/100_0047.JPG?dl=0 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6u7ggpfl65p9l4w/K1%20LCD%20LED%20sm.JPG?dl=0
Lou W7HV

On Saturday, December 4, 2021, 09:00:13 AM MST, Don Wilhelm 
 wrote:  
 
 Ken,

The K1 LCD backlight is no longer possible.  The original used half of 
the K2 backlight strip which is no longer available and the new K2 strip 
is too thick to fit under the K1 LCD.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/3/2021 11:39 PM, Ken Brown wrote:
>  Need the best modifications for back lighting of the K1.
> This version never had the K1 LCD Backlight Kit.
>
> Ken
> Elecraft K1 nr. 260
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K1 VFO reading

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Mine that I built around 20 years ago tunes:
40m 6999.9 - 7088.820m 13994.2 - 14083.4

See page 28 of the manual.  The tuning range depends on the value of C2.  The 
range can be further adjusted by the number and spacing of turns on L1.
It would be a good idea to go through a complete alignment on the rig, 
especially to ensure RX offset agrees with with TX/displayed freq (C13, page 
47). 

Lou W7HV. 
On Friday, November 26, 2021, 01:19:42 PM MST, Mike Smith VE9AA 
 wrote:  
 
 Just bought a K1..an oldie but a goodie, I guess.

NB board and 2 bands board (20/40) No tuner.

 

So, just playing around, getting familiarized with this new-to-me little rig
before transmitting or hooking it up to a real antenna and I notice:

 

on 20m:  it tunes from 13.974MHz - 14.063MHz

 

and on it tunes from 40m from 6.980MHz-7.068MHz

 

When I transmit on a nearby rig or compare frequencies to DX cluster spots,
just using a chunk of wire for an antenna, and listen for the various
stations it looks like the VFO is reading pretty much bang on. 

 

So, is this a matter of incorrect components installed or a poor alignment
or the (re)seller messing with the "CAL" in the menu or ??

 

I don't really want to mess with it too much, but I am missing 20-25kHz of
usable bandwidth on each band. (seems like I have about 88kHz of tuning
range, but 20-26kHz of it is below the bands---oof !)

 

Ideas?

 

TIA !

 

73 Mike VE9AA  

 

Mike, Coreen & Corey

Keswick Ridge, NB

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Cheap power supply for KBT2

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

Although you can certainly use it just for charging an SLA, one advantage of 
these types of chargers is they automatically go into float mode to maintain 
the charge and prolong the life of the battery.  This is particularly 
beneficial for batteries that go fairly long periods of disuse, like 
motorcycles in the winter, or snow thrower batteries in the summer, etc.
I don't doubt that they can put out RFI, but in chasing down RFI at my QTH, 
which included switching off the power to the entire home, the ones I use 
(Battery Tender brand) were never identified as causing me any problems. Of 
course YMMV. 
   On Wednesday, November 24, 2021, 01:36:53 PM MST, Chris  
wrote:  
 
 Hi Jim,

Excellent article.  I haven't checked if it is a source of noise, but it
doesn't quite matter because this is a charger, not a power supply.  I only
use it when I need to charge a battery, so it is OK.

Best 73,

Chris KM1B


On Wed, Nov 24, 2021 at 2:03 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 11/24/2021 6:29 AM, Chris wrote:
> > I use this, and it seems to be working very well.
>
> Have you checked it for noise, using techniques in this app note?
> http://k9yc.com/KillingReceiveNoise.pdf
>
> Most hams have so much receive noise that they can't hear. If you
> haven't gone through your home to get rid of your own noise sources,
> chances are you're one of them.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Cheap power supply for KBT2

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
I use a small wall wart type lead acid battery charger/maintainer as the type 
used for moto and lawn equipment.  I use a Battery Tender brand charger I got 
many years ago. You might check out their line, which starts at $45.  Similar 
cheaper chargers can be found on line.  I've never evaluated these for RFI, but 
I've never had an RFI prob that I traced to the charger, which is in the 
garage. 

Lou W7HV
On Tuesday, November 23, 2021, 08:40:51 PM MST, Jim Brown 
 wrote:  
 
 On 11/23/2021 6:46 PM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:
> Looking for ideas for a cheap 14 volt wall wart type power supply for 
> recharging the KBT2 battery.

Ah -- you don't have enough RF noise, and you're looking for more!

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] OT; large ferrite toroid core?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 A nanoVNA is an incredibly capable, versatile, and inexpensive instrument 
(<$100) that can make these measurements when using proper technique and 
analysis.  They also work great as graphical antenna analyzers. 

Lou W7HV

On Friday, October 22, 2021, 05:52:20 AM MDT, John Oppenheimer 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi Mike,

Initial permeability can be computed from your values:

Compute 4T permeability=1 (Lo) using core dimensions:
Lo = 0.0004606 * Log10(OD / ID) * Ht * Turns^2 (Ht in mm)
Lo = 0.0004606 * Log10(6 / 2.6) * 14.3 * 16 = 0.0383uH (Ht in mm)
Initial Permeability ui = 6.6 / 0.0383 = 172

Fair-Rite 61 material ui = 125, 52 material ui = 250. If characteristics
are close to 61 or 52 material, then could use it for an HF Choke Balun.

Complex permeability can be plotted out to 20 to 30 MHz range using a
single port VNA. Do you have a VNA? I can walk your through the process
if wanted.

John KN5L


On 10/21/21 1:24 PM, Mike Maloney wrote:
> We were gifted a somewhat large (6"OD, 2.6" ID, 9/16" thick) ferrite core of 
> unknown mix and original use.   On face was marked 6.6uH w/4turns.   My 
> thinking it might make a good common mode RF choke on the output of an 
> inverter generator or on coax feedline.    Not familiar with properties of 
> toroid cores of this size.   Any ideas?
> 73, Mike AC5P
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Re: [Elecraft] MH3 mic case

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I don't have one and don't know the what material the housing is made of, but 
this adhesive usually does a much better job than epoxy on plastics:
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071871/

I have similar things happen with other items...the long term stress causes the 
bosses to eventually crack and break. 

On Friday, September 3, 2021, 08:24:56 AM MDT, jerry  wrote: 
 
 
 My K2 works great with a Kenwood MC-43S mic.  Also works with a D-104 
with a FET
voltage follower and a standard microphone plug.

                  - Jerry KF6VB


On 2021-09-03 06:53, Tommy58 wrote:
> My MH-3 case also recently fell apart and this happened when I finally
> took it out of the box to use it for the first time a few weeks ago.
> The posts that the screws go into were all busted off the front case.
> HORRIBLE design. I will not buy another at that price point.
> 
> Anyone know of an after market replacement? I'm guessing Elecraft
> didn't make those mics.
> 
> 73 de Tom - KB2SMS
> 
> On 9/3/21 5:08 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote:
>> Does anyone know if Elecraft sell replacement cases for this expensive 
>> microphone? I've barely used mine (I'm a CW chap) and it's already 
>> fallen apart! The three plastic internal mounting pillars have snapped 
>> off. I guess it's been dropped, but only on to carpet and I'm minded 
>> to think a $70 mic should easily withstand that.
>> 
>> Last month I emailed Elecraft via their online parts order form, but 
>> not had an acknowledgement. Maybe they're all on summer leave?
>> 
>> Thanks and 73,
>> 
>> Ian, G4JQT
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Level

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Of course what the material is matters a lot.  A 60C piece of wood or plastic 
(not good heatsink materials) will feel warm whereas a hunk of aluminum will 
feel quite hot due to its much higher thermal conductivity and heat capacity. 

On Monday, August 16, 2021, 02:40:37 PM MDT, Lyn Norstad  
wrote:  
 
 Interesting point, Don.

I never thought of the "finger test" for that purpose, but the "Threshold of
Pain" is normally considered to be 42C (or 107F).  My KPA500 reaches that
temp after about 8 seconds of 40 meter carrier with a drive level of 18
watts and an output level of about 350 watts. (Normal 'power off temp' runs
about 37C).

The average person can touch a 140F surface for 5 seconds without sustaining
irreversible burn damage.

Such a simple, basic thing to know ... but who does?

73
Lyn, W0LEN


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, August 16, 2021 1:55 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power Level

All,

I was reminded that I should have added that CW and SSB are low duty 
cycle modes while FT8 and several other data modes are high duty cycle 
and will produce more heat.

The 'finger test' I mentioned is suitable for any mode.

73,
Don W3FPR

--
Aaron,

I cannot give you a specific answer, but go by the heat.
I would suggest you first try 5 watts, and operate at that level for a 
while (I suggest 10 minutes).
Then check the heatsink temperature - if you can hold your fingers on it 
for longer than 5 minutes, then all is well.
Increase the power by about 3 watts and try again.
When the heat gets too much to comfortably hold your fingers on the 
heatsink (next to the PA transistors), then you have exceeded the 
maximum power which you should use for transmit.

The generalized answer is that you should consider those modes as 
continuous duty and use 1/2 the normal full power output, but I suggest 
doing the test I referred to as a specific power limit for your 
particular K2.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/13/2021 3:38 PM, Aaron K5ATG wrote:
> What is the recommended highest power level for a QRP Elecraft K2 to
> operate on digital modes like FT8, JT65 etc, without blowing the PA's?
>


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Buyers remorse

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I zip-tied two low speed 60mm muffin fans side-by-side (Globe 
D24-B08A-04W3-000), stuck tall rubber feet on the face of the pair and sat them 
atop the the K2/100 heat sink blowing down onto it. 

Lou W7HV
On Sunday, August 8, 2021, 7:22:18 AM MDT, jerry  wrote:  
 
 On 2021-08-08 00:08, Matt Maguire wrote:
> The K2 works beautifully with the silent KXPA100, if you make a small
> keying circuit:

*** Good idea.  Actually, I have do have a keying circuit in my QRP K2.  
Bought
it as a kit from W8FGU.  Works perfect with my Tiny Linear project.  
The Tiny Linear
has a fan also, but not as loud.

    I am working on another linear which will have the following 
characteristics:
* 15W in, 600W out
* RF deck with a pair of MRF300 LDMOS devices
* All band switched LPF.
* Monstrous heat sink.
* Color touch screen.
* Either no fan, or the quietest fan I can figure out.  I will have to 
do it by experimentation - detailed thermal design is beyond me :).  The 
circuit is supposed to
be 70% efficient - that means that for 600W out, you put 750W in, and 
have to dissipate
150W.  I have a 1-kW RF resistor that can bolt to a backplate.  And I 
can feed it 86VAC ( for 150W dissipation) from a variac.

Getting a little off-topic here.  Sorry about that.

                - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] Plug on KPA-1500

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 That's a little odd.  Where I've had 220V, I told the electrician the volts, 
amps, and type of outlet I wanted appropriate to that voltage and current.  
They had nothing to do with and no knowledge of what I would plugging into it, 
which could be many things, like an air conditioner, machine (milling machine, 
lathe, ...) or maybe even a amateur radio amplifier. 

Lou W7HV

On Thursday, August 5, 2021, 9:49:54 AM MDT, David F. Reed 
 wrote:  
 
 I am in a bit of a situation here… in trying to get a 240 V circuit wired for 
the shack to fit the plug coming from my KPA1500, the electrician tells me that 
it is a 120 V plug, and that is it against the law for him to wire a socket for 
that to 240 V.



Here is a photo of the power plug my KPA1500 came with:David F. Reed
שָׁלום עֲלֵיכֶם - עֲלֵיכֶם שָׁלום



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Re: [Elecraft] Li-ion vs. LiFePO4 was Re: K2 alive again, yay!

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Certainly there are pros and cons.  Here a list of some of them.  Everybody 
will weight these differently in deciding what to use.
   
   - Highest energy density: lithium-ion
   - Good energy density and lifecycle: lithium iron phosphate
   - Stable chemical and thermal chemistry: lithium iron phosphate
   - No thermal runaway and safe when fully charged: lithium iron phosphate
   - Portability and lightweight characteristics: lithium-ion
   - Long life: lithium iron phosphate and lithium-ion
   - Low costs: lithium iron phosphate
. 
Lou W7HV

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021, 11:41:35 AM MDT, Rajiv Dewan 
 wrote:  
 
 Another advantage: 2 to 4 times as many charge-discharge cycles. 

Raj N2RD

— Sent from my mobile
Rajiv Dewan
rmde...@gmail.com

> On Jul 21, 2021, at 12:46 PM, Bill Frantz  wrote:
> 
> LiFePO4 has several other advantages, besides not swelling during charge. 
> (Swelling is what caused fires in early devices in places like airplanes. 
> They contained the battery with no room for expansion resulting in burst 
> cases and exposed lithium.) The other ones that come to my mind are:
> 
> Cold weather performance. (My winter FD LiFePO4 was reliable at -15C (5F), 
> unlike my Li-ion laptop.)
> 
> Low self-discharge.
> 
> Voltage compatibility with "12V" systems.
> 
> There are probably others.
> 
> 73 Bill AE6JV
> 
>> On 7/21/21 at 9:31 AM, elecraft@mailman.qth.net (Louandzip via Elecraft) 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Agree, but the consequences of mismanagement can be more, uh, consequential. 
>>  If not for their easier management and fewer hazards, what's the point of 
>> much lower energy density LiFePO4 batteries?
> ---
> Bill Frantz        |Security, like correctness, is| Periwinkle
> (408)348-7900      |not an add-on feature. - Attr-| 150 Rivermead Rd #235
> www.pwpconsult.com |ibuted to Andrew Tanenbaum    | Peterborough, NH 03458
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 alive again, yay!

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 

>>>On Wednesday, July 21, 2021, 10:21:30 AM MDT, jerry  
wrote:  >>>Li-Ion is not hard to manage.  With a standard BMS, all you need is a
>>>voltage-regulated and current-limited wall wart - quite routine nowadays.   
>>>- Jerry KF6VB

Agree, but the consequences of mismanagement can be more, uh, consequential.  
If not for their easier management and fewer hazards, what's the point of much 
lower energy density LiFePO4 batteries? 

Lou W7HV
  
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Re: [Elecraft] A or B?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I've been using a CMOS4 with V0 emulation across all my rigs (when in the 
shack) for 20 years now.  I've always liked it and send better with it than 
most other keyers or rig's keyers, though lately some rig's keyers seem very 
similar.  Does anybody happen to know where I might find details of the input 
timing between the various emulation modes? I'm not looking for an explanation 
of iambic a vs b etc, but rather the specific timing differences in response to 
paddle contact closures that differentiate between keyers using the same mode. 

Lou W7HV

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021, 8:35:55 AM MDT, William Hammond via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 The model CMOS-4 is still available just two less memories: 
https://www.hamsupply.com/cmos-4-keyer/ 


73, Bill-AK5X

> On Jul 21, 2021, at 9:01 AM, jerry  wrote:
> 
> On 2021-07-21 06:26, Al Lorona wrote:
>> The Logikey keyer by Idiom Press
> 
> Sounds like a neat keyer.  Alas, it seems to be no longer available.
> The website intimates that production ceased in 2015.
> 
>            - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 alive again, yay!

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Oops.  That commercial pack is LiFePO4, not Li-Ion.  Doh.
W7HV.

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021, 6:38:50 AM MDT, Louandzip 
 wrote:  
 
  There is a protected Li-Ion pack for the K2 available. With Lio-Ion, proper 
battery management is essential.

https://www.batteryspace.com/custom-lifepo4-18650-battery-12-8v-4500-mah-57-6wh-7a-rate-w-pcb-and-connector.aspx
I briefly looked at putting together a LiFePO4 pack for the K2, but haven't yet 
done anything with that idea.  LiFePO4 is more forgiving and more 
lead-acid-like in its care a feeding.  Lower energy density than Li-Ion, but 
still much better than lead-acid.

Lou W7HV




On Tuesday, July 20, 2021, 7:52:06 PM MDT, jerry  wrote:  
 
 On 2021-07-18 19:50, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

> Next step, adding the the immensely heavy internal lead-acid battery.

*** I wonder how hard it would be to add instead a much lighter 
lithium-ion
battery pack?  Individual 18650 cells are now routine at 2.5A-H, and 
available up
to 3.5A-H.  The technology has gotten standardized, and you can buy a 
BMS ( Battery
Management System ) card off the shelf.  The only hard thing is spot 
welding the tabs.
A 3S1P ( three cells in series, 1 in parallel ) pack would probably do 
fine.

  I just got back from the garage where I repaired such a pack.  It was 
out of an 85W
cordless vacuum cleaner.  Just four cells.

    Like any battery, the voltage varies with charge.  These cells are 
about 4.2V fully
charged, and 3.4 when dead.  For three cells, that would be 12.8V fully 
charged, and 10.2
when it's time to recharge.

    I got all set up to weld the cell tabs for an ebike project.  The 
ratio of energy storage to battery weight is much better than lead-acid.


                      - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 alive again, yay!

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 There is a protected Li-Ion pack for the K2 available. With Lio-Ion, proper 
battery management is essential.

https://www.batteryspace.com/custom-lifepo4-18650-battery-12-8v-4500-mah-57-6wh-7a-rate-w-pcb-and-connector.aspx
I briefly looked at putting together a LiFePO4 pack for the K2, but haven't yet 
done anything with that idea.  LiFePO4 is more forgiving and more 
lead-acid-like in its care a feeding.  Lower energy density than Li-Ion, but 
still much better than lead-acid.

Lou W7HV




On Tuesday, July 20, 2021, 7:52:06 PM MDT, jerry  wrote:  
 
 On 2021-07-18 19:50, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

> Next step, adding the the immensely heavy internal lead-acid battery.

*** I wonder how hard it would be to add instead a much lighter 
lithium-ion
battery pack?  Individual 18650 cells are now routine at 2.5A-H, and 
available up
to 3.5A-H.  The technology has gotten standardized, and you can buy a 
BMS ( Battery
Management System ) card off the shelf.  The only hard thing is spot 
welding the tabs.
A 3S1P ( three cells in series, 1 in parallel ) pack would probably do 
fine.

  I just got back from the garage where I repaired such a pack.  It was 
out of an 85W
cordless vacuum cleaner.  Just four cells.

    Like any battery, the voltage varies with charge.  These cells are 
about 4.2V fully
charged, and 3.4 when dead.  For three cells, that would be 12.8V fully 
charged, and 10.2
when it's time to recharge.

    I got all set up to weld the cell tabs for an ebike project.  The 
ratio of energy storage to battery weight is much better than lead-acid.


                      - Jerry KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] Broke my K2 :(

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Yep.   I worked at an company where we had some boards with very high 
impedance circuitry (with the usual guard rings etc.).  We tried many things 
trying to get wave soldering and aqueous flux to work, but no amount of rinsing 
washing got the surface conductivity down to where we needed it . We wound up 
using mildly active rosin based flux on those boards.
The diluent in 70 and 91% isopropanol is water.  99.9% isopropanol will only be 
99.9% when you first open the bottle.  It starts aggressively absorbing water 
from the atmosphere as soon as exposed.  

Lou W7HV
On Thursday, July 15, 2021, 4:06:54 AM MDT, Alan Bloom  
wrote:  
 
 Don is exactly right about this.  When I was at HP/Agilent, the company 
directive was generally not to try to clean the rosin with alcohol.  
(Rosin-core solder was used only in rework.)  The rosin contains an acid 
to help with the soldering, but the acid is locked up inside the rosin 
where it does no harm.  Once you dissolve the rosin with the alcohol it 
spreads out and can cause leakage paths between connections.  Just leave 
the rosin there; it does no harm

HP did clean production boards after going through the wave solder 
machine.  But that used a water-soluble flux and the cleaning process 
was thorough enough to completely remove all traces of flux.  That's 
basically not possible using alcohol and cotton swabs on rosin.

Alan N1AL


On 7/14/2021 5:20 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> When I have cleaned boards with IPA or other cleaners, I apply the IPA 
> only in a small spot with a q-tip and then blot it with a paper towel 
> to help dry it - do not flood the board.
> I generally do not recommend cleaning boards, solder flux is 
> non-conductive and will normally not cause a problem.
> I only clean when the solder flux residue is really nasty as might 
> occur with Kester 44 solder.
> Use of a solder with a mildly reactive flux (Kester 385) will reduce 
> the need for cleaning the board - there is almost no residue.
>
> If you do choose to clean the board, make sure your cleaning work is 
> complete.  While solder flux is non-conductive, the flux plus the 
> cleaner may be conductive leading to resistive leakage paths. If you 
> can see any white stuff on the board, you have not done a complete job.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/14/2021 6:41 PM, Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE) wrote:
>> Yes Jerry, isopropyl alcohol does this!
>> I once cleaned a working print of a GPS receiver with isopropyl 
>> alcohol and it stopped working. Letting it be and trying it again 
>> next day turned out it worked perfectly again.
>>
>>  From then on I leave a PCB to rest after cleaning to have the IPA 
>> dry out completely...

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Re: [Elecraft] A or B?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I'm a squeezer and use B.  It's physically the easiest, particularly at higher 
speeds, and I believe B is really most common.  Of course you don't have to 
squeeze using B. 
 
 
  On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 9:11 AM, Tom Doligalski via 
Elecraft wrote:   I’ve always preferred B, and I do 
use squeeze keying. 

If I were starting off I would probably recommend B. I doubt there is much 
difference in the learning curve between either!

Tom W4KX

> On Jul 6, 2021, at 10:58 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> I’ve always used mode A. Mode B may be preferable for those doing 
> squeeze-keying, especially at higher speeds. 
> 
> Wayne
> N6KR
> 
> 
> elecraft.com
> 
>> On Jul 6, 2021, at 7:36 AM, Gary Peterson  wrote:
>> 
>> An old friend, who has been inactive for several years, recently purchased 
>> a used K3.  This is the first transceiver that he’s owned that includes a 
>> built in keyer.  He has always operated CW with a straight key.  He has 
>> acquired Vibroplex paddles and wants to know whether to set the radio’s 
>> keyer for mode A or mode B iambic.  He has never used an iambic keyer or a 
>> bug, before.
>> 
>> I learned iambic keying with a WB4VVF circuit board, back in the early 
>> 1970s, so mode B is what I prefer.  I know there are a lot of 
>> died-in-the-wool CW people who frequent this list and I would like any 
>> opinions as to whether it is easier for a newbie to learn iambic mode A or 
>> mode B.  I have no clue.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance for any advice or opinions that I can pass along.
>> 
>> Gary
>> KzeroCX
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Re: [Elecraft] Generic words on temperature

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 In years past, we had a spec where 60C was the the hottest temp allowable on 
any exposed accessible surface.  On a metal surface with high thermal 
conductivity and significant thermal mass (e.g. aluminum heat sink), it feels 
very warm to the touch, only starts to cause pain after many seconds, and 
causes pain long before causing injury.  That spec might be codified in some 
safety standards somewhere. 

A piece of wood or plastic at 60C just feel warm.  Heat and temperature are 
very different.  They have different dimensions and units. 

Lou W7HV

On Sunday, July 4, 2021, 4:47:36 PM MDT, Francis Belliveau 
 wrote:  
 
 All,
I am taking this off-list since it is so far off topic.

What I said seems to have been somewhat misinterpreted.  

1. "Threshold of pain" means it starts to hurt, not "I can't stand it any more".
2. The surface temperature of a child's forehead when running a fever of 106 
degrees is less than 100 degrees.  The 106 is an internal temperature.
3. This is a "rule of thumb", not an absolute.  Run the experiment yourself:

  * Come up with a way to measure the temperature of a hot surface.  Maybe an 
over window could be used, but you need to measure the surface temperature.  
Using a forehead thermometer will not work since it has bee calibrated to read 
internal temperature based on the cooler external temperature.

  * Heat the surface to 99 degrees and see how it feels.

  * Then try it again at 100 or 101 degrees.

Yes, individuals can handle much hotter temperatures.  I once saw somebody 
reach into a hot fish-frier and come out unburned; but he had been working in 
the frying industry for years and had built up the ability to to that.
This "rule of thumb" is based on a "normal average".

73,
Fran


> On Jul 3, 2021, at 19:52, David Woolley  wrote:
> 
> 100°F is well within the survivable body core temperature range, so it should 
> never trigger pain receptors.
> 
> In fact, I believe it was defined based on the nominal core body temperature 
> of a cow.
> 
> Did you mean 100°C?
> 
> -- 
> David Woolley
> 
> 
> On 04/07/2021 00:03, Francis Belliveau wrote:
>> Another rule of thumb for those who care.
>> When you hold a finger on something and it is 10 seconds to pain threshold, 
>> that location is about 100 degrees F.
>> This is not an absolute constant, but I have checked it a few times since I 
>> was told that, and it seems to be true for me.
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] SSB Confirmed

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I like the KPA100 as part of the two-box solution with the EC2.  Looks like 
the EC2 has been retired. 

Lou W7HV

On Friday, July 2, 2021, 7:20:50 AM MDT, Frank Krozel  
wrote:  
 
 I also agree on the KPA100.
One box solution!

-73-  Frank    KG9H
kg9hfr...@gmail.com




> On Jul 2, 2021, at 8:07 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> Go with the KPA100. It’s designed and integrated with the K2. Anything else 
> is going to be a maybe-fit or have problems.
> 
> Plus you get the RS-232 computer interface as well (although you have to use 
> a special cable!)
> 
>> On Jul 1, 2021, at 9:15 AM, jerry  wrote:
>> 
>> All,
>> 
>> So the K2 yielded up its first sideband QSO this evening.  10M roundtable of 
>> the local ham club.  People gave me good reports.
>> 
>> The next step is to organize up some power.  The KPA100 is a mighty elegant 
>> package, but I'm having trouble getting my head around the price tag.
>> 
>> An alternative might be one of those Chinese amp
>> kits off Ebay.  I actually have one in hand.  It requires a bit of redesign 
>> to work well.  Mostly,
>> going to a bifilar-transformer power feed and verifying/optimizing the input 
>> and output turns ratios.  And providing a proper switched LPF.
>> 
>>                - Jerry KF6VB
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On 2021-06-30 19:54, Bill Coleman wrote:
>>> The K2SB was absolutely the hardest kit to build out of the entire K2.
>>> There are a lot of parts, and it is a very small board.
 On Jun 30, 2021, at 10:06 PM, jerry  wrote:
 So I got up at 5:30 this morning and continued stuffing the SSB adapter 
 card.  Finished it up this afternoon.
 Trying it out, the CPU came up... CW still worked... But no SSB transmit, 
 and the SSB receive was very very soft.  Had to turn the AF gain up all 
 the way to hear
 anything at all.
 My untutored diagnosis - something was wrong with that 7-crystal SSB 
 filter.
 So I pulled the card out, scrubbed it again with IPA, stuck it under the 
 microscope to look - again - for solder splashes and  cold joints.  
 Scraped off a little something here & there.  Also, I had doubts about the 
 connections to the input & output transformers.  So I hit those again with 
 the soldering iron.
 Put the card back in the K2 - and ...Wow!  Lively SSB receive!  RF out on 
 transmit!
 Still need to align the rig.  Piping the output into another ham rig 
 through a big attenuator - it sounds pretty good.  One niggle - carrier 
 suppression.  If it's nulled out for LSB, it's not for USB.  The nulls are 
 in different places on the pot.  I guess you set a compromise position, 
 and make sure the carrier is off the skirts of the filter, so that can 
 help.
                - Jerry KF6VB
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>>> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL        Mail: aa...@arrl.net
>>> Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
>>> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
>>>        -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
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> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
>          -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Temperature or Warmth of KPA500 when "Off" ?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I use a clamp on ammeter and a short power cord jumper with the wires 
separated where I can clamp over the black wire.  That quantitatively tells me 
the power being consumed/dissipated. Keep in mind temperature is intensive 
whereas heat is extensive. 

Lou W7HV

On Wednesday, June 30, 2021, 9:32:28 AM MDT, Phil Hystad via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Living in the Pacific Northwest and having just gone through a big bath of 
heat I have become a temperature detective.  Anything not being used should not 
be radiating in the infrared spectrum above surroundings.  Thus, all of my 
radios are off.

Or, so I thought.  I forgot that the KPA500 was still on though off and I put 
my hand on the side of the cabinet and discovered some dastardly warmth — a 
“no-no” in this non-air-conditioned house.  So, I unplugged the KPA500 for the 
time being.

But, I was surprised.  I would have guessed that I would not be able to sense 
any warmth from the cabinet as the surrounding environment should have kept it 
cooler.  It was not hot.  Just warm to the touch.  Definitely not as warm as my 
iMac computer that I am using at the moment.

I should get my infrared temperature sensor and measure the actual radiated 
temperature and maybe I will do that some day.

But, is this normal?  I assume that there is a small current powering a micro 
processor and its related circuitry but should it be actually that warm — is 
there a cpu burning "idle loop" used and thus causing high current flow thru 
the processor.  

If it were not for the fact that breakfast is almost ready (steel cut oatmeal) 
I would plug the KPA500 back in and wait a while and then measure the 
temperature of the cabinet.  I will do that later.

73, phil, K7PEH
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Re: [Elecraft] K-Line / ZeroFive Antennas

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 One thing to consider with these (and any) antennas is FCC-19-126A1.  A 
flagpole in an uncontrolled area like an unfenced front yard or at the edge of 
a lot  might be problematic. 
Lou W7HV
.

On Monday, June 28, 2021, 2:38:23 PM MDT, James Bennett via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Thanks folks - seems that I’m on the right path on this one. I’m most likely 
going to order one of these flagpole antennas as soon as we get possession of 
the house and I see what the HOA wants as far as documentation. I spoke with 
another guy down the street who has a flagpole (not a ham) and he said they 
want minimal info and a small form to fill out. Got to get my post hole digger 
and steel bar all warmed up!

73 & thanks again, Jim  K7TXA

> On Jun 28, 2021, at 12:27 PM, Don Roberts  wrote:
> 
> Not using the flagpole vertical but do use a 31 ft vertical as well as DX 
> Commander 1/4 wave vertical and have no ptoblem with my KAT 500 or KPA 500 
> loading 40 to 6 meters. Have also loaded on the DX window on 75 and worked 
> onto Europe. I have 18 radials down. Also use full wave 80 loop and hex beam. 
> 
> Don, W4CBS 
> 
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
> 
> On Mon, Jun 28, 2021 at 1:57 PM, James Bennett via Elecraft
> mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>> wrote:
> Hi Craig - Yes, understood about the radials - I’ve had other verticals 
> before and found very good performance - providing a lot of radials are used. 
> I’ve got no problem laying out a LOT of them, as the grass grows pretty fast 
> here in this part of Idaho and will cover them up in no time. We'll be living 
> in a development on the edge of a lot of farm land (no, not potatoes - 
> alfalfa, corn, sugar beets!) - miles from the noisy city environment. All 
> underground electric services, too. So I’m hopeful my QRN levels will be low. 
> Right now living in an apartment complex with several hundred units. I have a 
> Buddistick mounted on a balcony railing and have a solid S9 noise level 24x7 
> on my IC-705. :-(
> 
> I’ve also used my KAT500 for years at another QTH in CA with an 88 foot long 
> doublet fed with 600 ohm ladder line and the tuner worked great. But I’m 
> wondering how the KAT500 (or the K3 internal tuner) handles something like 
> the ZeroFIve. So, hopefully someone on this list is also using one… :-)
> 
> 73, Jim / K7TXA
> 
> > On Jun 28, 2021, at 11:24 AM, Craig Smith  > > wrote:
> > 
> > Jim …
> > 
> > How well it “works” will be almost entirely dependent on the radial system 
> > you have installed and on the local noise level.  I’d recommend at least 32 
> > radials - as long as you have space for. On or in ground is fine.    If you 
> > do that, the performance and patterns should be approximately like the 
> > charts shown in all the handbooks for verticals over a ground plane.
> > 
> > If you are asking about the ability of the tuners in the Elecraft products 
> > to accommodate the mismatch on each band, that is a different question.  In 
> > general Elecraft’s tuners will handle up to a 10:1 SWR. 
> > 
> > 
> > 73  Craig  AC0DS
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nano VNA

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Yeah.  The menu system can be a little daunting, but after using it a bit and 
learning the flow it's not that bad.  You can print out a flow chart of the 
menus to refer to which makes things easier.  I also added some notes to mine.
The nanoVNA I have saves 8 sets of calibrations and settings on the device so 
works FB without appending a computer to it.  It does not save data.  The 
computer software also expand its capability in some respects. 

On Friday, June 25, 2021, 2:56:11 PM MDT, John Harper  
wrote:  
 
 Try it in conjunction with nanoVNA-Saver. Calibrations (and other data) can
be saved and recalled:

https://github.com/NanoVNA-Saver/nanovna-saver

John AE5X
https://ae5x.blogspot.com

>I have a NanoVNA and it does work, but its menu system is horrible and
counter intuitive.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 initial impressions

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 The passband of the filter has a tilt (the SSB module's filter is much better) 
 When you switch between CW and CWR, the slope of the filter reverses with 
respect to the base band, so it sounds different.  It's not that unusual for 
other rigs to do this to a lesser degree.  Of course where the filter is 
centered depends on BFO alignment which must be done for each width and both 
USB and LSB. 




On Friday, June 25, 2021, 4:04:34 PM MDT, Don Wilhelm  
wrote:  
 
 Jerry,

You will quickly get used to the UI.  If you do not have a manual, 
download one from Elecraft.
As another 'helper' one of my friends who was just getting used to the 
K2 created a chart of all buttons with their functions as well as the 
menu.  You can download that chart from my website www.w3fpr.com.  Look 
near the bottom of the home page for the link to the chart.  If you 
print it, you can make it into a handy tri-fold that is a convenient 
'accessory' to the K2.

The CW/CW-R situation is definitely associated with the BFO frequencies.
There are 4 filter widths for each mode and a BFO for upper sideband and 
another for lower sideband associated with each filter.

I would wait until you have the KSB2 installed and do any upgrades that 
you want before trying to align the filters and their BFOs. If you 
change the RF board crystals, you will need to realign the filters and 
BFOs - likewise with the addition of the KSB2 option. The KSB2 option 
instructions give you some suggested settings, but you can do a lot 
better by running the K2 audio into an audio spectrum analyzer running 
on your computer - the visual display of the receive passband makes that 
task easy.
You will need the internal counter probe if one was not included with 
your K2, Elecraft does sell a kit of parts.

I can give you help with the Dial Calibration and Filter alignment.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2021 4:08 PM, jerry wrote:
> Hello all,
>
>   My new ( to me ) K2 arrived yesterday, far in advance of when Ebay 
> said it would.  Color me happy :).  I just ordered the SSB adapter.
>
>   My first impressions:  The UI is a little cryptic - a general 
> weakness of things with small displays and few knobs/switches/buttons, 
> but really not too bad.  I've already got most of the buttons memorized.
>
>   Receive is nice & quiet.  When I disconnect the antenna, there is 
> very little internal hiss.  The AF gain control was scratchy at first, 
> but quieted right down with a little use.
>
>   Had my first QSO with it - with Don Huff, W6JL.  Don gave me a good 
> report.  Even though I was only
> running 10 watts.
>
>   I notice that the band noise changes tone between "CW" and "CW R".  
> Could that be symptomatic of a misadjusted BFO?  Also WWV is a little 
> off - switching from CW & CW-R changes the beat note.  Looking forward 
> to getting into this; Ebay just yielded up a GPSDO ( GPS-disciplined 
> oscillator ) which is supposed to emit 10Mhz accurate to a tiny 
> fraction of a Hertz.
>
>   I'll want to start inspecting the radio to see what needs updating.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Nano VNA

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I got a nanoVAN V2 PLUS 4 about four months ago.  It's been FB.  Here's the 
site:
https://nanorfe.com/nanovna-v2.html
There are at least 4 or 5 different nanoVNA designs, V2, F2, H, H4, etc.. with 
a variety of firmware and software programs and versions floating around 
and even more clones of each.  Prices range from $50 to $200... The landscape 
is very complicated. You can go to groups.io, search on nanoVNA and find 8 
groups to join.  I'm happy with what I got, but can't say if I'd be more or 
less happy with any of the others. 



On Friday, June 25, 2021, 6:18:50 AM MDT, w2xj  wrote:  
 
 The problem with that is it requires a computer and is apparently limited to 
Windows software. Nano VNA is self contained. 





> On June 25, 2021 5:00 AM Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>  
> On 6/25/2021 1:18 AM, Victor Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote:
> > Only marginally Elecraft related, but I want to buy a Nano VNA.
> 
> In a different price range, but I've been VERY happy with the VNWA 
> designed by DG8SAQ, built and sold as a finished product by these hams 
> in the UK. One of the HUGE pluses is SAQ's software, which is able to 
> compute and plot complex impedance from S11 and S21 measurements. The 
> company also sells very good calibration kits at very reasonable prices, 
> and calibration is key to meaningful measurements. This unit is a 
> serious lab quality instrument, not a toy.
> 
> https://www.sdr-kits.net/introducing-DG8SAQ-VNWA3
> 
> I paid about $700 for the unit with the cal kit, shipped, about 7 years 
> ago. The Brexit stupidity has made it about $100 cheaper.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Giving Up

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 >>>the FTdx101D will blur the dits together...John K7FD<<< 

This morning I've tried replicating the issue with my straight key sending dits 
as fast as I can (~23 wpm), a bug at something over 40 wpm, and by hooking up a 
paddle as cootie (not a cootie user myself).  On the cootie, that fastest burst 
of dits I can physically produce I estimate to be roughly 37wpm comparing to 
dits from a keyer set to that speed. I get no blurring listing to the side tone 
or listening on another rig while transmitting with the MP.
I know you've also complained about how your side tone sounds.  Mine does not 
sound like a pure sign wave, but sounds very similar to actual signals heard 
over the air. Of course actual signals are not pure sign tones, either at their 
origin or coming out of the RX. (phase noise, non-linearities, and all that...)

FWIW: I basically only operate CW, mainly paddles and keyer, and sometimes a 
straight key.  I'm very hesitant to inflict my bug fist on anyone. 

Lou W7HV
   On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 10:10:07 AM MDT, John Nicholson 
 wrote:  
 
 It appears to sense the spacing within each character sent. If manually sent 
CW is over 22 wpm…and the spacing is close enough…the FTdx101D will blur the 
dits together. The letter ‘H’ turns into a long dash. No other radio I have 
here (thirteen) does this. I recorded spectrum scope videos on a separate 
receiver and sent them to Yaesu. Their response was ‘use a paddle and don’t 
bother us.’ But I’m over it; I just use my IC-7610 or RGO One when I use my 
cootie :)

John K7FD

> On Jun 9, 2021, at 8:02 AM, Louandzip via Elecraft  
> wrote:
> 
> 
>>>>> rig will not key properly with a sideswiper key. Dits merge becoming a 
>>>>> solid dash over 22 wpm...
> John K7FD<<<
> How does it know you're using a cootie?  I exceed 22 wpm with a straight key 
> or a bug, sometimes operating  35wpm and higher the latter with no probs. 
> Straight key, cootie, or bug are all just a contact closure. How would the 
> rig know the diff?
> An external keyer is still essentially a contact closure and will go higher 
> yet. 
> 
> Lou W7HV
>    On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 7:15:12 AM MDT, Skip Davis via Elecraft 
> wrote:  
> 
> Wes I don’t know about your K3 except mine has both a Mic and Headphone jacks 
> on the front left hand side :)
> 
> Skip Davis, NC9O
> Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Giving Up

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
 rig will not key properly with a sideswiper key. Dits merge becoming a 
 solid dash over 22 wpm...
John K7FD<<<
How does it know you're using a cootie?  I exceed 22 wpm with a straight key or 
a bug, sometimes operating  35wpm and higher the latter with no probs. Straight 
key, cootie, or bug are all just a contact closure. How would the rig know the 
diff?
An external keyer is still essentially a contact closure and will go higher 
yet. 

Lou W7HV
On Wednesday, June 9, 2021, 7:15:12 AM MDT, Skip Davis via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Wes I don’t know about your K3 except mine has both a Mic and Headphone jacks 
on the front left hand side :)

Skip Davis, NC9O
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Other Radio lists thoughts.

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 In the biz I was in, and the FDA, call this usability and human factors.  
On Tuesday, June 8, 2021, 6:50:29 PM MDT, w2xj  wrote:  
 
 
Sounds unwieldily to me.  



> On June 8, 2021 8:14 PM Thomas Warren  wrote:
> 
>  
> Speaking of the Sherwood RX list, someone mentioned producing additional 
> lists…here is some food for discussion….. possibly not on this list.
> 
> List 1) Radio Receiver (RX) …..already exists.
> 
> List 2) Radio Transmitter (TX)…..already suggested.
> 
> List 3) Radio Ergonomics (RE) - a list of what is desirable or which knobs/ 
> buttons used the most or are most 
>     important. Listed by different classes such as Contest radio, CW, SSB, 
> Weak signal….etc.
> 
> List 4) Radio Usability (RU) - how many mouse-clicks or button-pushes is 
> takes to enable a wanted function, Macros OFF……etc. 
> 
> Probably, combine #3,4. 
> 
> Just throwing this out for rumination. :) 
> 
> 
> Tom, W4TMW
> 
> 
>  
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Re: [Elecraft] Frequency Accuracy and stability

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I count beats.  One beat in 1 second and I'm off 1 Hz.  One beat in two seconds 
and I'm off 1/2 Hz.  Easiest done if the side tone and received signal are 
adjusted to be close in amplitude and there's little/no QSB.   Zero beats, and 
the frequencies would be exactly the same, but the practical limitation is 
probably 1/4Hz in good conditions.  The only things required are a reference, 
like WWV, and my ear. 

That is, after all, what the term zero beating means, adjust frequencies to be 
the same until the beats stop. 

Lou W7HV



On Wednesday, May 19, 2021, 3:30:49 PM MDT, Bob McGraw 
 wrote:  
 
 I ordered my K3S with "KTCX03-1-F TXCO 1ppm f/w correction to 0.5ppm".   
K3S-F s/n 10163

I use CW mode and CWT mode and tune to each of the WWV frequencies.  By 
pressing SPOT the radio resolves to the WWV frequency but will show any 
error either + or - of the WWV frequency.   By tuning up about 25 Hz and 
then pressing SPOT and then tuning down about 25 Hz and using SPOT one 
can easily see the error amount.    If all is correct, it will return to 
the WWV frequency +/- 0.0 difference.

I check 4 or 5 WWV frequencies and note any discrepancy.  I then can 
adjust the REF CAL up or down as needed and then re-check the WWV 
frequencies as described above.

I find this method is preferable to the "zero beat" method and assures 
the radio on all bands is +/- 2 Hz or better.   Good enough for me.

73

Bob, K4TAX


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
The link in the email you sent is similar to what I did.  It did not work with 
the original LCD.   Putting a white sheet behind the original LCD did nothing 
as it was opaque. I had to get a transreflective one, the key here is it's 
translucent to permit back-lighting.  It was long ago and I don't have the info 
where I got it.  IDK, but it is possible that production switched to using the 
transreflective type at some point.  I'll pm you some pix. 

Lou W7HV

On Sunday, May 16, 2021, 8:09:37 AM MDT, David Thompson via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 > On May 16, 2021, at 06:06, Louandzip via Elecraft  
 > wrote:
> 
> If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
> before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, 
> two leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
> transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back 
> then. 


Morning Lou,

I looked on the Elecraft site and the part number for the transreflective LCD 
is E600015. A search for that part number on the site turned up nothing. So 
they don’t appear to be stocking that part anymore. 

If someone reading the reflector knows the source for that part, I will see if 
I can find one. If not, I found this approach — https://bit.ly/3fgvtL2 — to 
adding a backlight to a built K1. With a little tinkering, the latter should 
work as well.

Thanks Lou!

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 backlight kit

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 If you can't find a kit:  I modded my K1 to illuminate the LCD back in '03, 
before the mod kit was available.  It's pretty easy to do (a white sticker, two 
leds, and a resistor) and works very well, but it does require a 
transreflective LCD in place of the original reflective one supplied back then. 
I tried the mod with original LCD and it didn't work  IDK if later ones came 
standard with the transreflective LCD.  If you have or can get a 
transreflective LCD, I'd be happy to describe the mod and email some photos 
that detail the mod and show the results.
Lou W7HV

On Saturday, May 15, 2021, 8:14:08 PM MDT, David Thompson via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Good evening all,

I’m looking for a LCD backlight kit for the K1. I don’t see it listed on the 
Elecraft site anymore and am kicking myself for not picking one up sooner.

If anyone has a kit that is no longer needed, I would be interested. Please 
contact me off-list.

73 de AG7TX...

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net






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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 up-date

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Great.  Thanks for the tip.  Downloaded and added to my ham to-do list, which 
is rapidly getting lengthier. HI HI.
Lou W7HV

On Monday, May 10, 2021, 8:35:36 AM MDT, Don Wilhelm  
wrote:  
 
 Lou,

Download the K2 A to B instructions and inspect your K2 to see which 
mods have been installed.
Physical inspection is the only way I know to do it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/10/2021 8:21 AM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:
>  One thing that's holding me up is doing the research to figure out which 
>mods I've done and which I should do.  Mine is 1818 and I fervently kept up 
>with all the mods, updates, and tweaks for 3 or 4 years after I built it.  You 
>mention replacing the IF xtals. I know I did that at some point because I have 
>a little paper envelope with the set I pulled out, and I remember doing the 
>improved grounding mod of soldering the grounding wires to the base of the 
>xtal cans. IIRC, at the time some were adding additional SMT bypass caps at 
>the xtals but IDK where that went.  There were many temp drift tweaks and mods 
>going on too and I have many pages in my notebook experimenting with those, 
>especially with the heat introduced by the KPA100.  I have lot's of cryptic 
>notes like: "Removed RF C180 to flatten 2nd IF filter.  Added 10pF NPO in 
>parallel with C72 to reduce VCO voltages.  Set L30 for 6V.  Removed 1 PLL xtal 
>X1 per Wayne." and it goes on.
>
> Perhaps the main obstacle is it's still working FB for me.  There's always 
> that sage piece of wisdom lurking in the back of my mind, "Don't fix it if it 
> ain't broke."  HI HI
> Lou W7HV
>
>

  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 up-date

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 One thing that's holding me up is doing the research to figure out which mods 
I've done and which I should do.  Mine is 1818 and I fervently kept up with all 
the mods, updates, and tweaks for 3 or 4 years after I built it.  You mention 
replacing the IF xtals. I know I did that at some point because I have a little 
paper envelope with the set I pulled out, and I remember doing the improved 
grounding mod of soldering the grounding wires to the base of the xtal cans. 
IIRC, at the time some were adding additional SMT bypass caps at the xtals but 
IDK where that went.  There were many temp drift tweaks and mods going on too 
and I have many pages in my notebook experimenting with those, especially with 
the heat introduced by the KPA100.  I have lot's of cryptic notes like: 
"Removed RF C180 to flatten 2nd IF filter.  Added 10pF NPO in parallel with C72 
to reduce VCO voltages.  Set L30 for 6V.  Removed 1 PLL xtal X1 per Wayne." and 
it goes on. 

Perhaps the main obstacle is it's still working FB for me.  There's always that 
sage piece of wisdom lurking in the back of my mind, "Don't fix it if it ain't 
broke."  HI HI
Lou W7HV  

On Sunday, May 9, 2021, 6:40:05 PM MDT, Don Wilhelm  wrote: 
 
 
 Greert Jan de Groot,

If you have an earlier K2, I suggest that you do the other upgrades.
If your K2 is below SN 3000, then the K2ATOB mods are applicable - 
download the K2ATOB instructions for a list of all the mods are required.
If your SN is below 2560, I recommend replacing the IF crystals for a 
better IF filter response.
Those steps will bring it up to date except for the K2 Keying Waveshape 
mod which is currently not available from Elecraft as a kit.  I can give 
you instructions on how to install it on your K2 if necessary.  K2s 
above SN 4660 have that mod already installed.

73,
Don W3FPR



On 5/9/2021 5:36 PM, Geert Jan de Groot wrote:
> On 09/05/2021 20:54, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
>> Don, W3FPR used to do much of this work on K2 transceivers, but he has
>> retired from that role.  Dave, W8FGU has assumed Don's role. Alan, W3DVX
>> also provides such services.  Both have posted periodically to this 
>> forum.
>> There may be others who are experienced K2 upgraders, but these are the
>> folks that come to mind.
>
> I built my KPA100 15 years ago or so and only recently I investigated 
> updates. The KPA module has seen a number of design updates over the 
> years and it makes sense to investigate. I've updated mine (thanks 
> QRP-shop for getting the mod kits in Europe, through Corona times!) 
> and at the end of a long evening I have a bag of swapped-out parts and 
> a PA that worked quite a bit better, feels like a new unit.
>
> I have not used one of the upgraders (being in Europe, postage and 
> customs would probably have me mortgage the house, frankly) but I do 
> recommend updating. It is too bad you don't have the setup to do it 
> yourself because on K2, these mods really are simple and can be done 
> on the kitchen table.
>
> Geert Jan
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7997 is alive

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Oops.  Those links got run together.  If parsed at https they work. sri about 
that. 

On Sunday, May 9, 2021, 3:22:36 PM MDT, Louandzip via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
  Yep.  I am working toward adding a panadapter to my K2 using the IF buffer 
board from DX Engineering and probably a SDRplay RSP1A.  I have a $25 RTL-SDR 
stick I'm experimenting with but I don't think it'll have the necessary 
performance.  Here are the links:
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-z1k2-kithttps://static.dxengineering.com/global/images/technicalarticles/dxe-z1k2-kit.pdfhttps://static.dxengineering.com/global/images/technicalarticles/dxe-z1k2-kit_sn.pdfhttps://www.w8fgu.com/pics/k2pan/DXE%20IF%20Buffer%20Amp%20Install.pdfhttps://www.rtl-sdr.com/buy-rtl-sdr-dvb-t-dongles/https://www.sdrplay.com/rsp1a/
Lou W7HV
    On Sunday, May 9, 2021, 2:51:24 PM MDT, Dave Van Wallaghen  
wrote:  
 
 Doug,

I have a write up here: https://www.w8fgu.com/k2pan.html for using a 
SDRPlay unit and HDSDR software to make a panadapter that works pretty 
well on the K2. It requires the IF Buffer amp designed by Jack Smith, 
K8ZOA (SK) and sold by DX Engineering to be installed in the K2 to 
provide K2 IF output for the SDRPlay unit.

73,
Dave, W8FGU


On 5/9/2021 4:43:18 PM, "Douglas Person"  wrote:

>I'd love to find and do the mod that would let me use a small SDR receiver as 
>a spectrum display. I've been spoiled by this extra dimension that is becoming 
>common on new transceivers. My K2 also has great sounding audio - I use a 
>small, efficient HiFi speaker - something that Radio Shack had many types of. 
>Minimus I believe they were called. And I use a Heil mic or a Kenwood MC60 and 
>I get great audio reports. Not to make Wayne's ears burn - but, personally, I 
>think the K2 is an absolutely brilliant design. Of course the K3 is also and 
>no doubt the K4. But to design a kit that anyone handy with a pair of snips 
>and a good soldering iron can build on a kitchen table - that's a special 
>brilliance.
>
>I hope a lot of K2s live on and still get used regularly.
>
>73, Doug -- K0DXV
>
>On 5/9/21 1:40 PM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:
>>  Totally agree.  The last K2 I built it keeper.  It's a FB rig with great 
>>sounding RX that holds up well in tuff cndx.  FWIW, it's also happens to be 
>>the first and only K2 I've built.  That was in Dec '00 when the the Elecraft 
>>reflector was all builders, homebrewers, experimenters, QRP CW ops...  It was 
>>great fun. My K2 has gotten a lot of mods and updates but still needs a 
>>number more to get more up to date.
>>
>>Lou W7HV
>>
>>
>>
>>      On Friday, May 7, 2021, 6:47:37 PM MDT, Doug Person  
>>wrote:
>>    I've built 5 K2s. The last one is a keeper. I built several for other
>>people. I still get a kick out of turning it on and making contacts with
>>a "kit" radio. Mine is a 100 watts, ssb adapter and the outboard tuner.
>>Wired for a Kenwood hand mike. I often think that if it was the only rig
>>I owned I would be completely satisfied. Receiver sounds great and I get
>>great audio reports. If anyone has ever considered building one - go for
>>it. The satisfaction of turning it on and making contacts with something
>>you put some serious time in to build is an experience I highly
>>recommend. I don't know if I've ever operated a better cw transceiver.
>>And even in a crowded band on 20, it can hold its own. I love it.
>>73, Doug -- K0DXV
>>
>>On 5/7/2021 5:50 PM, Carl Clawson wrote:
>>>I'm 20 years late to the game but I finally built a K2. What a satisfying
>>>project to build, and a delightful rig to operate. It doesn't have all the
>>>performance and features of my fully-updated K3, but it's a great little
>>>radio nonetheless.
>>>
>>>I finished the final alignment and test Tuesday and have used it a couple
>>>evenings now.
>>>
>>>Now to build the SSB adapter and the 100 W amp.
>>>
>>>73, Carl WS7L
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7997 is alive

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Yep.  I am working toward adding a panadapter to my K2 using the IF buffer 
board from DX Engineering and probably a SDRplay RSP1A.  I have a $25 RTL-SDR 
stick I'm experimenting with but I don't think it'll have the necessary 
performance.  Here are the links:
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts/dxe-z1k2-kithttps://static.dxengineering.com/global/images/technicalarticles/dxe-z1k2-kit.pdfhttps://static.dxengineering.com/global/images/technicalarticles/dxe-z1k2-kit_sn.pdfhttps://www.w8fgu.com/pics/k2pan/DXE%20IF%20Buffer%20Amp%20Install.pdfhttps://www.rtl-sdr.com/buy-rtl-sdr-dvb-t-dongles/https://www.sdrplay.com/rsp1a/
Lou W7HV
On Sunday, May 9, 2021, 2:51:24 PM MDT, Dave Van Wallaghen  
wrote:  
 
 Doug,

I have a write up here: https://www.w8fgu.com/k2pan.html for using a 
SDRPlay unit and HDSDR software to make a panadapter that works pretty 
well on the K2. It requires the IF Buffer amp designed by Jack Smith, 
K8ZOA (SK) and sold by DX Engineering to be installed in the K2 to 
provide K2 IF output for the SDRPlay unit.

73,
Dave, W8FGU


On 5/9/2021 4:43:18 PM, "Douglas Person"  wrote:

>I'd love to find and do the mod that would let me use a small SDR receiver as 
>a spectrum display. I've been spoiled by this extra dimension that is becoming 
>common on new transceivers. My K2 also has great sounding audio - I use a 
>small, efficient HiFi speaker - something that Radio Shack had many types of. 
>Minimus I believe they were called. And I use a Heil mic or a Kenwood MC60 and 
>I get great audio reports. Not to make Wayne's ears burn - but, personally, I 
>think the K2 is an absolutely brilliant design. Of course the K3 is also and 
>no doubt the K4. But to design a kit that anyone handy with a pair of snips 
>and a good soldering iron can build on a kitchen table - that's a special 
>brilliance.
>
>I hope a lot of K2s live on and still get used regularly.
>
>73, Doug -- K0DXV
>
>On 5/9/21 1:40 PM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:
>>  Totally agree.  The last K2 I built it keeper.  It's a FB rig with great 
>>sounding RX that holds up well in tuff cndx.  FWIW, it's also happens to be 
>>the first and only K2 I've built.  That was in Dec '00 when the the Elecraft 
>>reflector was all builders, homebrewers, experimenters, QRP CW ops...  It was 
>>great fun. My K2 has gotten a lot of mods and updates but still needs a 
>>number more to get more up to date.
>>
>>Lou W7HV
>>
>>
>>
>>      On Friday, May 7, 2021, 6:47:37 PM MDT, Doug Person  
>>wrote:
>>    I've built 5 K2s. The last one is a keeper. I built several for other
>>people. I still get a kick out of turning it on and making contacts with
>>a "kit" radio. Mine is a 100 watts, ssb adapter and the outboard tuner.
>>Wired for a Kenwood hand mike. I often think that if it was the only rig
>>I owned I would be completely satisfied. Receiver sounds great and I get
>>great audio reports. If anyone has ever considered building one - go for
>>it. The satisfaction of turning it on and making contacts with something
>>you put some serious time in to build is an experience I highly
>>recommend. I don't know if I've ever operated a better cw transceiver.
>>And even in a crowded band on 20, it can hold its own. I love it.
>>73, Doug -- K0DXV
>>
>>On 5/7/2021 5:50 PM, Carl Clawson wrote:
>>>I'm 20 years late to the game but I finally built a K2. What a satisfying
>>>project to build, and a delightful rig to operate. It doesn't have all the
>>>performance and features of my fully-updated K3, but it's a great little
>>>radio nonetheless.
>>>
>>>I finished the final alignment and test Tuesday and have used it a couple
>>>evenings now.
>>>
>>>Now to build the SSB adapter and the 100 W amp.
>>>
>>>73, Carl WS7L
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>>    

Re: [Elecraft] K2 #7997 is alive

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Totally agree.  The last K2 I built it keeper.  It's a FB rig with great 
sounding RX that holds up well in tuff cndx.  FWIW, it's also happens to be the 
first and only K2 I've built.  That was in Dec '00 when the the Elecraft 
reflector was all builders, homebrewers, experimenters, QRP CW ops...  It was 
great fun. My K2 has gotten a lot of mods and updates but still needs a number 
more to get more up to date. 

Lou W7HV



On Friday, May 7, 2021, 6:47:37 PM MDT, Doug Person  wrote: 
 
 
 I've built 5 K2s. The last one is a keeper. I built several for other 
people. I still get a kick out of turning it on and making contacts with 
a "kit" radio. Mine is a 100 watts, ssb adapter and the outboard tuner. 
Wired for a Kenwood hand mike. I often think that if it was the only rig 
I owned I would be completely satisfied. Receiver sounds great and I get 
great audio reports. If anyone has ever considered building one - go for 
it. The satisfaction of turning it on and making contacts with something 
you put some serious time in to build is an experience I highly 
recommend. I don't know if I've ever operated a better cw transceiver. 
And even in a crowded band on 20, it can hold its own. I love it.
73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 5/7/2021 5:50 PM, Carl Clawson wrote:
> I'm 20 years late to the game but I finally built a K2. What a satisfying
> project to build, and a delightful rig to operate. It doesn't have all the
> performance and features of my fully-updated K3, but it's a great little
> radio nonetheless.
>
> I finished the final alignment and test Tuesday and have used it a couple
> evenings now.
>
> Now to build the SSB adapter and the 100 W amp.
>
> 73, Carl WS7L
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW keying mistakes using bugs - semiautomatic keys

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
Straight key is one thing.  The dit contacts of bugs can be somewhat 
sketchy/scratchy. There's very little pressure pushing the contacts together 
when they first make.  It's a common problem on many rigs with many bugs. One 
fix that's been around forever (predates 555 timers and transistors) is a 
little arm that preloads the dit spring.  That's a mechanical fix that can work 
very well.
On Sunday, May 9, 2021, 12:28:07 PM MDT, Jim Brown 
 wrote:  
 
 On 5/9/2021 10:38 AM, IK4EWX wrote:
> now I am sure that the K3S is a CW
> transceiver suitable only for the use of paddles with its internal keyer or
> external pc keying.

Not true. The K3 can easily be used with a straight key, plugged into 
the KEY jack.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Wall st journal article about dxpeditions

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 What's changed since the 19th century is there's way more to be ignorant of 
nowadays. 

W7HV

On Friday, May 7, 2021, 8:50:33 AM MDT, Grant Youngman 
 wrote:  
 
 Apparently, ignorance hasn’t changed much since the 19th century, and is as 
pervasive now as ever 若若 藍

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2021, at 7:13 AM, weave...@usermail.com wrote:
> 
> “Updated 19th century technology” made me laugh. I drive an updated 
> technology - it no longer has hooves :).
> 
> 73,
> Bill WE5P
> 
> Comfortably Numb
> 
>> On May 6, 2021, at 23:56, Tony Estep  wrote:
>> 
>> Complete with a pic of a K3.
>> https://www.wsj.com/articles/post-pandemic-travel-for-ham-radio-fans-as-far-away-as-possible-11620312400?st=vb0vgz9a268gjgk=article_copyURL_share
>> 
>> 73,
>> Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] This does not bode well for the chip users of the world

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 We called it the OSWO method of inventory control.  "Oh S*** We're Out"
W7HV

On Friday, April 30, 2021, 6:48:13 AM MDT, W3FLH  wrote: 
 
 
 
Joe and the group,
A company I used to do business with had a nickname for JIT supplying.
SOL. They actually had it printed on a card JIT=SOL.

73
Darrell AB2E



To chime in on "JIT" philosophy - we have a name for it, too:  Just Isn't
There.

It leaves no "wiggle-room" if there are any changes in production - you're
dead in the water.

Tony W3FLH




--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: High school drafting class, ~1975

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 HP-35!  Hah. Came out my second year in college. $400. The rich kids got them. 
That's over $2k in 2021 dollars. I had to keep stroking my slide rule for 
another year until the Ti SR50 came out.  I waited in line with a bunch of 
other nerds at the doors of Macy's (!) when they had a sale on them...around 
$125 IIRC.  The doors opened and we all rushed the counter...probably 35+ of 
us.  I don't know if everybody got one but I did. That thing lasted me well 
through graduate school and my first few jobs. 

   On Monday, April 26, 2021, 9:34:45 AM MDT, SteveL  
wrote:  
 
 I envied a friend in a EE program and the University of Cincinnati.  He had 
the first HP-35 I’d ever seen the year it was introduced (1972), but it was way 
out of my budget as a new freshman studying Engineering.

A couple of months after my friend acquired the HP-35, to my fascination he 
received a letter from HP detailing a list of obscure calculations the device 
performed in error (the tangent of 98.2352…, etc.) .  The letter went on to 
describe that these were determined and then verified by computer simulation of 
the computational algorithms used internally - a concept new to this budding 
engineer.  And, if he returned the calculator, it would be repaired and 
corrected.

And to think we basically flew to the moon on a slide rule?  Who could ever 
imagine a computer that could fit into one room?  (Paraphrasing a line from 
early in the Apollo 13 movie.)

Who carried around a CRC book of tables of various calculations in lieu of an 
unaffordable scientific calculator?
Or programming FORTRAN on punch cards?
Or PDP-8 on paper tape after toggling in the boot loader through the front 
panel switches?

We’ve come a long way!  I love the reminiscences…

Steve
aa8af


> 
> I scraped and saved my summertime active duty pay to buy a Bomar 901 
> four-function calculator in 1972 for $150, about $950 today.  Hewlett-Packard 
> had introduced their milestone HP-35 scientific calculator that year for 
> $400, about $2535 today.  Extremely few students could afford that.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: High school drafting class,

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Maybe had you known drafting, you wouldn't have had to resort to becoming a 
lawyer.  HI HI

Lou W7HV

On Sunday, April 25, 2021, 7:28:59 AM MDT, eda...@aya.yale.edu 
 wrote:  
 
 I never took a drafting class nor anything like it in high school, yet its
absence never hurt me professionally.  Making a straight line is not a skill
required of a lawyer.

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] OT: High school drafting class, ~1975

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Yep, did the mechanical dwgs by hand and taped the artwork for the PCBs for 
the first few products I designed at a startup.  When I built my K2 in 00/01, I 
used a drafting table that had a drafting machine as a work bench and my first 
operating desk.  I had gotten it from work when they were ditching them and 
going totally digital.  I remember our new CAD workstations being a big deal 
because they had 80286 processors!

Lou W7HV

On Saturday, April 24, 2021, 3:13:48 PM MDT, David Thompson via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 > On Apr 23, 2021, at 22:08, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Anyone remember "drafting"? A favorite class in high school: blueprints, 
> mechanical drawings, schematics, straight edges, hand lettering, projections 
> and elevations. We invented things to draw that weren't real, but looked like 
> they should be. Did all the math by hand -- on a slide rule, if necessary. 
> Day-dreamed about what we might one day build.


Afternoon sir (and the group),

I still have my Dietzgen drafting set from high school, circa 1970. That was 
the only drafting class that I ever had, but I made a living as a drafter and 
design technician for a number of years. I then supplemented my income while in 
college preparing camera-ready drawings for graduate students and faculty 
members at university.

My Koh-I-Nor technical pens are still in the case (in a box in the garage) 
along with a set of Leroy lettering templates, including Greek symbols. I can 
still run a Leroy bug.

That drafting class led me to a career in engineering. I still hand draw 
sketches for analytical work. Although it’s been a long time since I drew an 
isometric.

Fun stuff… thanks for making me remember… 

David Thompson, AG7TX
Jack of All Trades
Master of None
CWOps #2861
dbthomp...@me.com
ag...@arrl.net


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 204, Issue 6

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Oops.  That link didn't work as intended, but it's very easy to drill down on 
the McMaster site and find what you need.
Lou W7HV

On Tuesday, April 13, 2021, 8:10:15 PM MDT, Louandzip  
wrote:  
 
  I usually go to McMaster for specific fasteners not easily found at hardware 
stores:  Here's their 6-32 and 4-40 black oxide flat head philips stainless 
machine screws.   Of course they have pan head, socket cap, and other styles as 
well.
https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-joining/flat-head-screws/phillips-flat-head-screws/thread-size~6-32/finish~black-oxide/thread-size~4-40/
On Tuesday, April 13, 2021, 5:31:57 PM MDT, Ray  wrote:  
 
 Ace Hardware has some screws in Black.
WA6VAB  Ray K3 #3824 



From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2021 2:49 PM
To: Tommy Judson; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 204, Issue 6

Tommy,

I highly recommend that you get the proper screws from Elecraft to be 
certain they are the correct length.
Hardware store screw are normally not available in black, so why mess up 
the appearance of your KX2 with zinc plated screws.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/13/2021 11:36 AM, Tommy Judson via Elecraft wrote:
> Make a bad purchase good?
> Bought a KX-2 off the internet and have found that it is missing several of 
> the screws that held the end plates on.  Asked about that and the seller said 
> he tried to put some sort of protective end plates onto the radio but 
> couldn’t do it so threw them away and put the original end plates back on.  
> What concerns me about just going to the hardware store and getting more 
> screws (that might not be the proper thread/length) is I think two of the 
> screws held the final output transistors onto that end plate which I assume 
> was for that end plate to act as a heatsink.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 204, Issue 6

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I usually go to McMaster for specific fasteners not easily found at hardware 
stores:  Here's their 6-32 and 4-40 black oxide flat head philips stainless 
machine screws.   Of course they have pan head, socket cap, and other styles as 
well.
https://www.mcmaster.com/fastening-joining/flat-head-screws/phillips-flat-head-screws/thread-size~6-32/finish~black-oxide/thread-size~4-40/
On Tuesday, April 13, 2021, 5:31:57 PM MDT, Ray  wrote:  
 
 Ace Hardware has some screws in Black.
WA6VAB  Ray K3 #3824 



From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2021 2:49 PM
To: Tommy Judson; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 204, Issue 6

Tommy,

I highly recommend that you get the proper screws from Elecraft to be 
certain they are the correct length.
Hardware store screw are normally not available in black, so why mess up 
the appearance of your KX2 with zinc plated screws.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/13/2021 11:36 AM, Tommy Judson via Elecraft wrote:
> Make a bad purchase good?
> Bought a KX-2 off the internet and have found that it is missing several of 
> the screws that held the end plates on.  Asked about that and the seller said 
> he tried to put some sort of protective end plates onto the radio but 
> couldn’t do it so threw them away and put the original end plates back on.  
> What concerns me about just going to the hardware store and getting more 
> screws (that might not be the proper thread/length) is I think two of the 
> screws held the final output transistors onto that end plate which I assume 
> was for that end plate to act as a heatsink.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] External Speaker

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
Yeah.  I have one of those RS die-cast speakers I've been using since I built 
my K2 20 years ago.  I use it with other rigs too.  I imagine any small 
bookshelf speaker would work as well.  

Lou W7HV
On Thursday, April 1, 2021, 1:08:43 PM MDT, wa2...@gmail.com 
 wrote:  
 
 I use these on my rigs.Radio Shack Minimus 7 JBL ProPerformer Ken WA2LBI LG G6 
-- Original message--From: Mike MaloneyDate: Thu, Apr 1, 2021 14:46To: 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net;Louis Visconti;Cc: Subject:Re: [Elecraft] External 
Speaker Have you tried a deflector tube on the internal speaker to direct the 
sound toward your head/ears?  
Mike AC5P
    On Thursday, April 1, 2021, 01:18:45 PM CDT, Louis Visconti  wrote:  
 
 Can some one point me to a decent external speaker for my K2. Thanks.

Lou, KD2MU

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Re: [Elecraft] Where are the K4 reviews?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
I'm just happy we got past the TP shortage.  

Lou W7HV
On Wednesday, March 31, 2021, 1:14:04 PM MDT, Jim Brown 
 wrote:  
 
 On 3/31/2021 10:34 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
> Most products are still being manufactured and are available.

Not true. We're one of the lucky ones whose home survived the summer's 
wildfires, but 3 weeks without power turned our fridge into a home for 
all sorts of stinking mold. The lead time on a new one was four months, 
and actual delivery was two months past that. Want to buy an RV to live 
in where your home used to be? Lead time is 6-12 months. Lead time for 
furniture we ordered around that time was 4-6 months. Two chairs we 
ordered two weeks are quoted for November. My XYL ordered a loom two 
months ago that she doesn't expect to see before July.

I don't know where the fridge was mfd, but all the other stuff was/is 
made by small companies in the Sierra Nevada, the midwest and the 
eastern US.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Rothammels Antenna Book

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I just ordered it from Rothammel.com.  $95 shipped.
Rothammels Antenna Book - DARC Verlag GmbH, 59,00 €

| 
| 
| 
| €59.00 |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
Rothammels Antenna Book - DARC Verlag GmbH, 59,00 €

FIRST EDITION IN ENGLISH! Translated and revised from the 13th German edition 
Currently approximately 62 00 $ wi...
 |

 |

 |




On Monday, March 22, 2021, 7:43:14 AM MDT, Scott Haller 
 wrote:  
 
 Amazon and Ebay have multiple copies available from US sources.

73, Scott K2CK

On Mon, Mar 22, 2021 at 8:51 AM Clay Autery  wrote:

> Wish it was readily available in the USA.
>
> __
> Clay Autery, KY5G
> (318) 518-1389
>
> On 03/22/21 07:43, hb9...@hispeed.ch wrote:
> > The book (1600 pages)  is extremely valuable , systematic and
> professional.
> >
> > Since 2019 (first English Edition) it also covers, among others,  the
> North American-English speaking- HAM antenna related technology  sector.
> >
> > Many international references and patent sources are outlined .
> >
> > The book combines systematically HAM (Basics, VLF, HF, VHF, UHF, SHF)
> practical applications and puts the focus on why/understanding physics.
> >
> > I have not seen anything that big/detailed and comprehensive in recent
> US HAM Literature.
> >
> >
> >
> > PS: I am not getting any royalties from DL DARC , nor am I a sales gay!
> 
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Tnx, cu, vy 73 Andy
> >
> > HB9CVQ, DK2VQ, AK4IG
> >
> >
> >
> > https://www.qrz.com/db/HB9CVQ
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
> > Von: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> Im Auftrag von Lyn Norstad
> > Gesendet: Montag, 22. März 2021 11:59
> > An: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Betreff: [Elecraft] Rothammels Antenna Book
> >
> >
> >
> > This 1500-page publication has been cited as the "greatest book ever" on
> antennas.  Is that true?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Anyone with firsthand experience, how does it compare to the ARRL
> Antenna Book (or others)?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  
> https://rothammel.com/Rothammels-Antenna-Book
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 73
> >
> >
> >
> > Lyn, W0LEN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > __
> >
> > Elecraft mailing list
> >
> > Home:  
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >
> > Help:  
> http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >
> > Post:   mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> >
> >
> > This list hosted by:   http://www.qsl.net
> >
> > Please help support this email list:  
> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to   hb9...@hispeed.ch> hb9...@hispeed.ch
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/100 Amp Keying Limits?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 My OLD  Rev A 2002 K2/100 manual shows it on page 56.  It'll switch 1A, 
+200VDC via an IRF830 (or IRL620)  MOSFET to ground.  It's on the left middle 
of the second page of the schematic. 

Lou W7HV



On Tuesday, March 16, 2021, 9:23:15 PM MDT, Mike Cizek W0VTT 
 wrote:  
 
 Hello Eric,

It's in theKPA100 manual, at the back under Specifications:

DC relay coil pulled to ground
1A at 200 VDC  (do not use with AC-controlled relay)

P59 in my book, which I just noticed, comes right after p62.


73,
Mike Cizek W0VTT

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of eric norris via Elecraft
Sent: Tuesday, 16 March, 2021 21:11
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/100 Amp Keying Limits?

Can anyone tell me what the external amplifier keying limits are for a K2/100?  
I'm trying to use an AL811H, which has 14.5V at 10ma on the relay jack.  Do I 
need an external interface?  I cannot find the answer in the K2/100 manual.  
Thanks!

73, Eric WD6DBM

   
  
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Copying CW and Pitch

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 A semantically misunderstanding?  

Argument: a coherent series of reasons, statements, or facts intended to 
support or establish a point of view. 

  
  
    On 3/15/2021 10:22 AM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:
      >

    I've not presented "arguments," only science.

    73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Copying CW and Pitch

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I guess I'll play the contrarian here.  Back in '65 when I first got licensed 
I used 1kHz!  For a long time I was using 800Hz, but nowadays I like 700 Hz.  I 
understand the arguments and have unscientifically experimented with lower at 
times, including down to 300 or so, but it sounds kinda lugubrious and in the 
situation I've tried I've not noticed any consequential improvement in my 
ability to copy in QRM/N. I played the flute and piccolo for many years (and 
contrarianly, the baritone sax) and that might contribute to my predilection 
for high frequencies and frequency discrimination, or maybe it was the other 
way around, IDK.  
Lou W7HV
   On Monday, March 15, 2021, 8:57:44 AM MDT, Michael K Bottles via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Interesting comments. 

In the late 1960’s the late Harvey Hetland (WA6KZI/N6MM) told me exactly the 
same thing: a lower tone was better for copying CW. For a long time I was at 
450-500, now that I am in my 70’s I am down around 400-420. I guess Harvey was 
right way back then.

Kim - K7IM

Sent from my iPad

>  
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 A bit OT, and this is kinda like using a CW decoder, but the Cornell Lab of 
Ornithology has an phone app, BirdNet. which listens and will identify birds by 
their calls.  When started, it displays a waterfall display of sound, you drag 
brackets to surround the call in time, submit it, and it identifies the bird.  
It works amazing well in the wild on calls you might think not loud enough to 
be captured. I tried submitting whistling or talking and it correctly 
identified the distinctly non-avian species. 

https://birdnet.cornell.edu/

On Saturday, March 13, 2021, 8:59:41 PM MST, kevinr  
wrote:  
 
 Good Evening,

    The week began with wet weather.  Perfect for an net search to 
follow a hint by K0DTJ.  Brian mentioned the Merlin phone app, which 
helps you identify birds.  https://merlin.allaboutbirds.org Part of it 
is sound files.  Deeper digging got me to 
https://www.macaulaylibrary.org/guide-to-bird-sounds/ which had exactly 
the sound files I wanted.  $20 for over 4000 sound files from 900 
species of birds in Canada, the US, Mexico, and parts of South America.  
It is interesting to notice the regional dialects of a species.  The 
local Pileated Woodpecker population may not understand the call from 
their Carolina cousins.  This summer I will put a few speakers out this 
window and see who I can attract.  Last night the Saw Whet owls woke me 
up.  Maybe I should play their tune during the daytime :)

    One small sunspot is showing, while the auroral oval is stronger 
than last week.  Flux is at 77 sfu.  I expect more noise with deeper 
QSB.  However, you never can tell until you try.  I took a hike to check 
the growth on the thinned trees.  Along the way I tightened the guy 
lines to my antennas.  The winter winds had pulled them upward on the 
shrubs they were holding.  When the weather turns sunny again I will 
trim the central tree of dead branches.  That will let me raise the 
antenna about twenty feet. Then I can test how it works when it is not 
behind a wall of soil.  Luckily that is on the western side; off to the 
east the way is open well into Washington.  On a clear day that is where 
Mt. St. Helens would appear.

Notice the time change.  Same sun angles as last week just one hour 
later on our normal clock.


Please join us on (or near):

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday (3 PM PDT Sunday)
   7047 kHz at z Monday (5 PM PDT Sunday)

    73,
   Kevin. KD5ONS


-




They took me down the grading station
And they classified me zed
'Cause of over population
They told me that I would soon be dead

But I slipped out of the force field
And hid beneath the monorail
But the automatic blood hounds
Lord, they're soon hot along my trail

Now if I had been a scholar
With computer working hard
Then my molecular structure
Would not be on the grader's card

So, I know that they will get me
Put my index in the brain
Then, the atoms of my body
Will be disposed of, Lordy, down the drain

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 upgrade notes not found on Elecraft site...

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Hey.  Thanks!  That is a big help.  I've been following along in the shadows 
as I built my K2 in 2000 and have been looking at bringing it up to date.  I 
kept up with updates number of years but I'm not exactly sure where I am and 
where I need to go with it. 

Lou W7HV (W7DZN back then)
   On Sunday, February 28, 2021, 9:29:43 PM MST, Mike K8CN 
 wrote:  
 
 Chuck,

I found an old copy of the K2 firmware update instructions with brief
descriptions of prior versions' feature changes using the Wayback Machine
(aka archive.org).

https://web.archive.org/web/20090822034804/http://elecraft.com/

Once at this archived page, select Manuals and Downloads in the left hand
menu, select K2 manuals,
and scroll down to the link titled "2.04 K2 Firmware Notes."  That lists the
features of the Rev 2 firmware
succession.

The most recent firmware version, I believe, is 2.04R.  The instructions for
this version have a more limited history of changes.

https://web.archive.org/web/20150905061319/http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K2_Rev_2_FW_Rev_J.pdf

I hope this helps a bit more

Mike, K8CN





--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] This morning on 40 meters: some DX, and over-the-horizon radar

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Testing the K4.  It's a dirty job, but somebody's got to do it.

On Saturday, February 27, 2021, 9:08:13 AM MST, Wayne Burdick 
 wrote:  
 
 Two things were booming in this morning on my K4D: very loud over 
over-the-horizon radar (Chinese? Russian?), and Thailand (E29TGW). I'm pleased 
to report that the new K4 noise blanking algorithm completely suppressed the 
former, and that I worked the latter. 

The radar signals presented as an undulating "dragon" on the panadapter, 
blanketing about the lower 20 kHz of 40 meters. The panadapter's own noise 
blanker slayed it, though, knocking it into the atmospheric noise.

Next time this pops up I'll do a video.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

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Re: [Elecraft] Heil HC-5 Taiwanese Equivalent?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 The hole in the Heil cartridge might be tiny to help tailor the frequency 
response? 

On Monday, February 1, 2021, 1:15:21 PM MST,  wrote:  
 
 I suspect you've discovered Bob Heil's source! 


It looks exactly like the HC-5 except the HC-5 has two solder pads 


The HC-4 has a tiny hole, much smaller than in the photo 


73 
Frank 
W3LPL 

- Original Message -

From: j...@kk9a.com 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Monday, February 1, 2021 3:55:52 PM 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Heil HC-5 Taiwanese Equivalent? 

Used Heil HC-4 and HC-5 elements are very easy to find in the $70 
range. I had poor luck getting my HC-4 mic to sound good when I 
purchased my first Elecraft K3s so I switched to the Heil IC electret 
element and it sounded much better. 

John KK9A 



Tony wrote: 

I was looking an original Heil HC-5 microphone element for my KX3 when I 
came across this unit from an unknown manufacturer in Tawain: 

See: 
https://www.electronicsurplus.com/qw442-1740-audio-microphones-element-only-miniature
 

There's no frequency response curve or other information other than a 
comment about the element favoring higher frequencies. I've emailed the 
seller to find out more. 

I have an original HC-5 that produces excellent communications audio 
with my K3S and it would be nice to find one for the KX3. If anyone has 
an original HC-5 laying around, please let me know. 

Tony 

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Re: [Elecraft] Internal battery options for K1 & K2

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

Thanks for the info.  Interesting that they use 12 cells in series/parallel to 
get 4.5 Ah rather than just 4 larger cells.  I think I might go with 4 ea 32650 
or 32700 cells at 6-7 Ahmaybe these:
 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T632Z1Z/

...attended to with proper care and feeding, of course.  I'm looking at rigging 
up some sort of charger setup for them as well.  

Lou W7HV


   On Friday, January 29, 2021, 9:20:05 PM MST, Bryan Nehl  
wrote:  
 
  Let me just put this out there:
Custom LiFePO4 18650 Battery: 12.8V 4500 mAh ( 57.6Wh, 7A rate ) w PCB and 
connector (batteryspace.com)
There is a wiring option to select for the K2 as well.
72 de Bryan, k0emt


On Friday, January 29, 2021, 04:36:47 PM EST, Louandzip via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
  That's a good point.  My knee-jerk response is to go with rechargeable rather 
than (horrors!) disposables.  Way back, I did a fair amount of portable ops, so 
rechargeable made sense.  Now, IDK.  I'm just getting back into to it. For me, 
figuring this stuff out, deciding on an optimal solution, rigging it up, and 
making it work, is more fun than actually using it. HI HI.
Lou W7HV





    On Friday, January 29, 2021, 11:00:25 AM MST, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 I'm thinking 4 individual LiFePO4 cells in the K2, maybe 4 ea 32700 @ 6 Ah and 
1.3 lb,? LiFePO4 being less fraught than LiIon.? 
Lou W7HV

—

Have you considered non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries? Expensive, but they 
are available in every grocery store, last forever when not used, don’t leak 
(hopefully). Good for occasional field use, maybe?

Doug, W0UHU. 
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Re: [Elecraft] Internal battery options for K1 & K2

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 That's a good point.  My knee-jerk response is to go with rechargeable rather 
than (horrors!) disposables.  Way back, I did a fair amount of portable ops, so 
rechargeable made sense.  Now, IDK.  I'm just getting back into to it. For me, 
figuring this stuff out, deciding on an optimal solution, rigging it up, and 
making it work, is more fun than actually using it. HI HI.
Lou W7HV





On Friday, January 29, 2021, 11:00:25 AM MST, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 I'm thinking 4 individual LiFePO4 cells in the K2, maybe 4 ea 32700 @ 6 Ah and 
1.3 lb,? LiFePO4 being less fraught than LiIon.? 
Lou W7HV

—

Have you considered non-rechargeable AA Lithium batteries? Expensive, but they 
are available in every grocery store, last forever when not used, don’t leak 
(hopefully). Good for occasional field use, maybe?

Doug, W0UHU. 
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[Elecraft] Internal battery options for K1 & K2

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

Fun fact: 
The  K2's stock  SLA  2.9 Ah battery is:   7.0 x 2.36 x 1.38" = 22.8 cubic 
inches.   2.3 lb
A KX2 with its internal 2.6 Ah battery is:  5.8 x 2.80 x 1.50" = 24.4 cubic 
inches.  < 1lb

Without the  knobs and some shoehorning, you could just about fit a KX2 with 
its 2.6 Ah battery in the space allotted for the 2.9 Ah SLA battery in a K2 and 
save well over a pound. 

I'm thinking 4 individual LiFePO4 cells in the K2, maybe 4 ea 32700 @ 6 Ah and 
1.3 lb,  LiFePO4 being less fraught than LiIon.  

Lou W7HV
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Re: [Elecraft] Shack Equipment Storage

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 My gut feel says typical steady indoor condx would be better, but I've had 
some rigs in a commercial storage unit for a number of years with no 
heating/cooling and CO ambient temps.  I'm sure it got significantly over 100F 
in there during the summer and likely into the single digits F in the winter. 
The rigs are still working FB, including 20 yo K2 and K1. I kept a FT1000MP in 
an uninsulated attic for a few years and I'm sure it got to well over 100F in 
there.  It's still FB too.

In some situations with higher humidity, daily temp variations can lead to 
condensing conditions, which I don't think would be good.  I ran into that in 
my New England garage, but didn't keep any ham gear in there. 
On Wednesday, January 27, 2021, 8:20:47 AM MST, Joseph Shuman via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 There is a difference between stupidity and ignorance.  I claim ignorance.

My shack is a room in a barn attic space, separate from the house, no HVAC so 
cooling is one window and heating is a space heater (when I am working the 
waves).  Otherwise storage is ambient temp in the room.  Winter temps typically 
down to low 20s, summer up to 90s.  Sunny summer temp in the shack gets up to 
120.  My concerns are leaving the KX2 (#3007) and KXPA100 (#2802) in the shack 
and the effects of daily cycling the temp, especially in winter.  My “internet 
research” (maybe an oxymoron?) has such varied opinions it is worthless.  What 
say you, my fellow Elecraft faithful?

Keeping Watch-
shu
Joe Shuman, NZ8P

Unless someone like you 
cares a whole awful lot, 
nothing is going to get better. 
It’s not.        -Dr. Seuss
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[Elecraft] K2 battery options

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I'm looking at current options for K2 battery operation.  I built mine 20 years 
ago and never got the internal SLA option. I always used an external battery.  
I see the KBAT2 is still available but wonder about some of the newer battery 
types; Li-Ion, LiFePO4 etc.  I saw LiPO conversion from '04 that fit in the 
internal SLA holder, but I'm not enthused about that.  Internal is nice, but 
not essential.  What are you using and recommending?
Lou W7HV
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Re: [Elecraft] Replacement Manuals

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Minor nit, but the Elecraft PDFs don't have PDF outlines and linked page 
numbers and references.  I find these very useful in the manuals for my other 
rigs (and especially for my car with 900 pages between 3 manuals!).  A section 
I'm reading might reference another page or section, clicking on it takes me 
there, and ALT "back arrow" takes me back.  Very handy. 

On Monday, January 25, 2021, 10:13:06 AM MST, John Hiatt 
 wrote:  
 
 Looks like it is part #740258, and costs $34.95.  
https://elecraft.com/collections/manuals/products/k3s-owners-manual
Click on the Price/Add to Cart tab.

John, KC7DRI



From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of N4ZR 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 8:48 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Replacement Manuals

Yes, you can download a PDF and if (like me) you want a hard copy, there
are reasonably-priced online services that will print and bind any PDF.
I did this to update my older K3 manual with all the fixes and
additions, which I have added but which weren't documented in the manual
that came with the radio.

73, Pete N4ZR
Check out the new Reverse Beacon Network
web server at .
For spots, please use your favorite
"retail" DX cluster.

On 1/25/2021 10:09 AM, Richard wrote:
> I loaned my K3s user’s manual to a friend and it got lost in the mail on the 
> way back to me.
>
> Can I get a replacement from The Company?
>
> Richard Kunc
> W4KBX

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Re: [Elecraft] Virtual K4 application -- sneak preview

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 What is the native resolution of the K4's 7" TFT and what will it support via 
the HDMI output? 

On Sunday, January 24, 2021, 10:36:37 PM MST, Mark Goldberg 
 wrote:  
 
 It's not lost on me that it is a 4K resolution image. My Ham shack
monitor is a 43" 4K TV just waiting patiently for a K4 kit.

73,

Mark
W7MLG

On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 12:17 PM Wayne Burdick  wrote:
>
> Those of you who saw Eric's Friday presentation got a brief look at one part 
> of our K4 remote control effort -- a 100% emulation of the K4 front panel 
> called Virtual K4, or "VK4" for short. (Yes, it would even work on Fitzroy 
> Island if you had an internet connection.) This is in addition to direct 
> K4-to-K4 control.
>
> Th VK4 application will eventually run on multiple platforms, including pads 
> and laptops. It will support direct touch as well as mouse control, including 
> the very useful mouse wheel for adjusting simulated rotary controls. We're 
> fleshing out the various data streams including audio, panadapter, and CW 
> keying. Of course third-party developers are free to create their own 
> interfaces using the K4's extensive remote-control command set.
>
> If you missed it, here's a directly link to the Virtual K4 concept drawing. 
> You can also get to it on our K4 page, in the "K4 Updates" section.
>
>    https://ftp.elecraft.com/K4/virtual_K4_app.jpg
>
> (The sharp-eyed will notice a few features in the app that don't appear on 
> the K4 front panel itself.)
>
> If you have comments or suggestions, feel free to send them to me directly or 
> discuss on your favorite list.
>
> Note: In general we post everything of interest to the primary Elecraft 
> reflector (this list). Postings to other lists may be more sporadic, so be 
> sure to check here as well.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Efficiency of MFJ remotely-tuned loop antennas

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Certainly don't want to throw away power in wasted heat, but when I turn down 
my 200W rig to 5W for QRP, it's still useful and that's 16 dB down. 

With ant restrictions, I'm looking at building a small horizontal loop for 6m.  
It'd be a little more than 4' in circumference, 16" dia,  and the capacitor 
could be be two 4 cm diameter plates ~2mm apart. That should be reasonably easy 
to make relatively efficent as there are not a lot of plates that need to be 
connected with very low resistance.  I calculate ~85% with 1/2" copper.  Should 
be good for 200W.  I'd orient it horizontally for horizontal polarization (weak 
sigs) and local noise rejection. 

I have a squalo made from a lawn chair, but technically that's not a small loop 
and a little big to be stealth. 

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021, 3:58:09 PM MST, Alan Bloom  
wrote:  
 
 I've been convinced that AEA's specification of 72% efficiency for the 
Isoloop at 14 MHz is too high, certainly too high for the MFJ antennas.  
So I re-did the calculations using the 59% efficiency figure calculated 
below.  The new results can be downloaded here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ve1v49b3gjvmt64/MFJ-1786-1788_2.pdf?dl=0

If you don't want to download the (1-page) document with the pretty 
graph, here's a synopsis of the results:

Freq      Eff. Gain with respect to a 1/2-wavelength dipole
MHz      dB  dBd
7.0         -9.5    -9.9
10.1       -5.1    -5.5
14.0       -2.3    -2.7
18.068   -1.1    -1.5
21.0   -0.7    -1.1
24.89 -0.4    -.8
28.0   -0.26  -0.65

My basic conclusions still stand.  With almost minus 10 dBd of gain on 7 
MHz, the 40 meter coverage of the MFJ-1788 doesn't seem very useful.  
That is confirmed by some of the reviews I have seen.  I think you'd get 
better results by just loading up the coax feedline as a random-wire 
antenna with a tuner.

The 10 MHz performance is a little better.  Good enough to at least 
allow you to get on the 30 meter band.

On the higher bands, the gain is within less than 3 dB of a full-sized 
dipole, which seems a useful trade-off for its small size and wide-band 
continuous coverage.

Disclaimer:  Again, I have never seen one of these things so this is all 
based on theory and on the many reviews I have read.  Even if my figures 
are off a bit, at least this gives an idea of the relative performance 
on the various bands.

Alan N1AL



On 1/18/2021 5:38 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
> Well let's see...
>
> Radiation resistance of a small loop is 31,171 * (Area / wavelength^2)^2
>
> For a loop with a 91cm diameter at 14 MHz, I believe that comes out to 
> 0.064 ohms.
>
> Assuming the loss is due to the RF resistance of the loop:
>
> From the internet I get the volume resistivity and skin depth for 6063 
> aluminum is 0.03 microohms-meter and 23.3 micrometers respectively, so 
> the surface resistivity is 0.03/23.3 = 0.0013 ohms per square.  The 
> outside circumference of the tubing is PI * 1.05" = 3.3" and the loop 
> length is PI * 36" = 113" so the loss resistance is .0013 * 113/3.3 = 
> 0.045 ohms.
>
> So I calculate an efficiency of 0.064 / (0.064 + 0.045) = 59%
>
> So worse than AEA claimed, but in the ballpark.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
>
>
> On 1/18/2021 3:39 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> Hi Alan,
>>
>> 72% sounds a bit high. Is this number based on loop size alone ("in 
>> theory")? Or are they taking conductor geometry and other losses into 
>> account?
>>
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>>
>>> On Jan 18, 2021, at 2:05 PM, Alan Bloom  wrote:
>>>
>>> MFJ makes a pair of small, remotely-tuned loop antennas, the 
>>> MFJ-1786 that covers 10-30 MHz and the MFJ-1788 that covers 7 to 21+ 
>>> MHz.  As far as I can tell, the two antennas are identical except 
>>> for the size of the tuning capacitor.  Each consists of a 3 foot (91 
>>> cm) diameter loop made of aluminum tubing and a plastic housing that 
>>> contains the tuning capacitor, motor, and coupling loop.  No control 
>>> cable is required since the control voltage is sent from the control 
>>> box in the shack to the motor in the antenna via the coaxial cable.
>>>
>>> Before I purchase one of these I wanted to get an idea of the 
>>> efficiency of such a small loop.  MFJ is silent on the subject so I 
>>> did my own calculations.  The calculations and results are on a 
>>> 1-page document that I uploaded to Dropbox and can be downloaded here:
>>>
>>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/l8mv67cjrck2ssn/MFJ-1786-1788.pdf?dl=0
>>>
>>> My calculations are based on the assumption that the efficiency of 
>>> the MFJ antennas is similar to the (no longer manufactured) AEA 
>>> Isoloop (my reasoning for that is in the document) and that AEA's 
>>> specification of 72% efficiency at 14 MHz is correct.  From that 
>>> number I can calculate the efficiency and gain on all the other bands.
>>>
>>> If you don't want to download the document, here is a summary of the 
>>> results:
>>>
>>> Freq  Eff  Gain with respect to a half-wave dipole
>>> MHz  dB  dBd
>>> 7.0 

Re: [Elecraft] K4 Receive Filter question

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I own a radio that's currently #1 on Sherwood's list. My 20 year old K2 is 
essentially equal at digging weak CW out of the noise (always dominated by band 
noise and not the noise floor of the rig) in virtually all situations I've run 
into. The K2 has no KSSB so I don't compare it on SSB. If I was up against a 
lot of really strong close-by sigs, presumably the new rig would win, but I 
haven't yet run into a situation with the two rigs side by side where big 
nearby sigs have actually caused a discernible difference.
Comparing SSB with other rigs, the new rig can beat the others on readability 
of weak sigs in noise, but I don't think it's due to the fundamental 
performance numbers in these cases but rather the DSP algorithm which makes the 
difference, and I don't believe this is quantified in the testing done by 
Sherwood or ARRL, except perhaps in subjective comments in the text of a QST 
review. . 

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021, 12:13:20 PM MST, George Thornton 
 wrote:  
 
 I have followed the Sherwood Receiver test data over the years and I know 
Elecraft has always been in or near the top spot.

I also would be reluctant to upgrade to a K4 if my K3 is the same or pretty 
close to the same in the key performance characteristics.

I wonder whether we are nearing the theoretical limit of what can be gained in 
receiver performance.

The difference among the top eight to ten on the Sherwood list is not likely to 
be practically significant.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of BRUCE WW8II
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2021 10:40 AM
To: Louandzip 
Cc: elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 Receive Filter question

I work in the 2 to 3 db above the noise floor CW, and 6 to 10 db above the 
noise floor on SSB now, (that is why I presently own a K3s and a P3VGA)  so I 
guess I will have to wait for the real answer. I really cannot believe that 
Elecraft did not run their own test. If and when I spend my cash I am not 
looking for the pretty blinkie colored lights and a fancy screen, I want 
performance.  My really big issue is: receiver noise floor, sensitivity and DSP 
that does not distort or degrade the incoming signal.
 But thank all of you for your input  and I truly appreciate all the comments.

Bruce
WW8II



On Tue, Jan 19, 2021 at 10:43 AM Louandzip via Elecraft < 
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

>  That's not a simple or easy question to answer, especially since 
> there's been no independent test of a K4, and there are many different 
> criteria that go into it.  That said,  I'll go out on a limb and say 
> that in most all practical situations on the air, it won't be. I say 
> that because I've listened to and half-assedly compared a number of 
> very good radios and some less good radios on the air. They might 
> sound different, and take some tweaking of the controls to make them 
> sound a similar as possible, but in the end I couldn't copy sigs 
> better on one than the other. The K3 is really good in the tests, and 
> I'm confident the K4 will surpass it, but that's at level that will 
> only matter in what I consider to be exceptional circumstances.
>
> I'll add that I'm not the radio connoisseur that some are, and what I 
> feel is largely the same, others may find hugely different. That 
> doesn't stop me from wanting the best, even if I believe it won't make 
> a practical difference in my operating.
>
>
>
>
>    On Tuesday, January 19, 2021, 12:47:17 AM MST, BRUCE WW8II < 
> wa8...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>  I also would appreciate a real answer to the question.  The question 
> is will the K4 or K4D be as good or better on receive than my K3s with 
> the 2.1kHz and the 200Hz filters.
>
> Bruce WW8II
>
> On Tue, Jan 19, 2021 at 12:56 AM RVZ via Elecraft < 
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> wrote:
>
> > I believe there are no crystal Roofing Filters in the standard K4 model.
> > Yet the manual talks about "one set of receive filters".  Please 
> > advise
> the
> > type and bandwidth of these filters?  (DSP?)
> >
> > From the K4 Manual:  There are three models: the basic K4, with one 
> > set
> of
> > receive filters and one analog-to-digital converter (ADC); the K4D, 
> > with
> a
> > second set of receive filters and a second ADC; and the K4HD, which 
> > adds
> a
> > superheterodyne front end that can be enabled as needed to provide 
> > even greater dynamic range. The superhet module uses 
> > high-performance, narrow-band crystal filters such as those used in the 
> > Elecraft K3S.
> Thanks
> > & 73, Dick- K9OM
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listin

Re: [Elecraft] K4 Receive Filter question

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 That's not a simple or easy question to answer, especially since there's been 
no independent test of a K4, and there are many different criteria that go into 
it.  That said,  I'll go out on a limb and say that in most all practical 
situations on the air, it won't be. I say that because I've listened to and 
half-assedly compared a number of very good radios and some less good radios on 
the air. They might sound different, and take some tweaking of the controls to 
make them sound a similar as possible, but in the end I couldn't copy sigs 
better on one than the other. The K3 is really good in the tests, and I'm 
confident the K4 will surpass it, but that's at level that will only matter in 
what I consider to be exceptional circumstances.  

I'll add that I'm not the radio connoisseur that some are, and what I feel is 
largely the same, others may find hugely different. That doesn't stop me from 
wanting the best, even if I believe it won't make a practical difference in my 
operating. 




On Tuesday, January 19, 2021, 12:47:17 AM MST, BRUCE WW8II 
 wrote:  
 
 I also would appreciate a real answer to the question.  The question is
will the K4 or K4D be as good or better on receive than my K3s with the
2.1kHz and the 200Hz filters.

Bruce WW8II

On Tue, Jan 19, 2021 at 12:56 AM RVZ via Elecraft 
wrote:

> I believe there are no crystal Roofing Filters in the standard K4 model.
> Yet the manual talks about "one set of receive filters".  Please advise the
> type and bandwidth of these filters?  (DSP?)
>
> From the K4 Manual:  There are three models: the basic K4, with one set of
> receive filters and one analog-to-digital converter (ADC); the K4D, with a
> second set of receive filters and a second ADC; and the K4HD, which adds a
> superheterodyne front end that can be enabled as needed to provide even
> greater dynamic range. The superhet module uses high-performance,
> narrow-band crystal filters such as those used in the Elecraft K3S.  Thanks
> & 73, Dick- K9OM
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Re: [Elecraft] Automatic lightning protection for radios, .... an off the wall idea

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 It's been quite a while since I worked in the biz, but IIRC, UL is a NRTL, 
"Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory."  They don't approve devices per se, 
but rather certify a device passed statutory safety standard testing.  A 
certification only means samples and manufacturing process passed the specific 
tests. Other NRTLs can do the same, and there are quite a few. A manufacturer 
needs to have their products certified by an NRTL if fed, state, or local 
regulations require it, or customers (often large entities) require it.  At the 
time I was in the biz, "harmonization" was going on, that was bringing all the 
disparate standards of various entities into alignment.  IDK what the current 
situation is. 

I'm sure there are more knowledgeable and current guys on this reflector. 
On Tuesday, January 19, 2021, 5:03:58 AM MST, Rich NE1EE 
 wrote:  
 
 On 2021-01-18 20:23:-0600, Jim Borowski wrote:
>Did I read this right regulation connector?If the clamps on the ground rod, or 
>water pipe, it is not UL stamped, it's not approved.Jim K9TFSent from my 
>T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Unfortunately,
the email footnotes don't include a link to the archive thread, and
there is no context, so I don't know to whom you reply...

but I am part of the thread, so I'll clarify for my part.
the loose connectors are UL listed. Two were loose, and 1 was incorrectly 
installed. I actually saw a web page that showed //an incorrect installation// 
as part of a "help page". I sent them a note, but didn't follow up.

Ah! Had not used nabble in the past, and I now see that this is in response to 
Bob McGraw - K4TAX, but the context is not clear.

~R~
72/73 de Rich NE1EE
The Dusty Key
On the banks of the Piscataqua

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Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ... warning issued by FCC today

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I see it somewhat differently and I don't see it aimed at me.  I see a benefit 
of FBI/FCC publicly citing the law as a good way to inform the general public 
that laws exist and using radios in the furtherance of a crime (ham or 
otherwise) is already illegal, and such crimes will be prosecuted.  My hope is 
that this will help quell any cry that "something must be done" in the way of 
more laws, regulation and restrictions. 
   On Monday, January 18, 2021, 4:46:56 AM MST, Ken  wrote:  
 
 Well said, Vic.  Amen!

Ken, NU4I

Sent from my iPod

> On Jan 18, 2021, at 06:13, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:
> 
>  My initial thought about being told not use my radio to commit a crime was 
> surprise that the FBI wasn’t also sending me an email telling me not to rob 
> banks.
> I mean, isn’t it sort of obvious that crime is bad?
> 
> Victor 
> 
>> On 18 Jan 2021, at 2:12, Mike Morrow  wrote:
>> 
>> So...the FCC *specifically* cites only amateur and personal radio services 
>> as illegal for use in crime.
>> 
>> I wonder how long the list is of radio services that ARE FCC APPROVED for 
>> use in crime?
>> 
>> Silly nonsense this all is.  It does not bring credit to anyone calling 
>> attention to this total non-problem.
>> 
>> Mike / KK5F
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>>> From: K4HYJ via Elecraft 
>>> Sent: Jan 17, 2021 4:20 PM
>>> To: 'Wes' , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ...    
>>> warning issued by FCC today
>>> 
>>> I feel safer now!!
>>> 
>>> K4HYJ
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
>>> Behalf Of Wes
>>> Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 5:13 PM
>>> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ...
>>> warning issued by FCC today
>>> 
>>> Well I'm glad that CNN cleared that up and I'm so relieved to know that
>>> Amazon, Apple and Google are protecting me from unmoderated speech.
>>> 
>>> N7WS
>>> 
> On 1/17/2021 2:07 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
> The FCC just posted this:
> 
> 
> https://www.fcc.gov/document/amateur-personal-radio-users-reminded-not
> -use-radios-crimes
> 
> I guess this isn't surprising, considering current events. But in case
>>> their motivation wasn't clear, see this interpretation:
 
 
 https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/17/tech/fcc-radio-extremist-social-media-a
 ttack/index.html
 
 Chances are VHF+ bands are the more likely vehicle for this form of
>>> self-expression. It might get lost in the already "interesting" QRM on 75
>>> meters.
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
>>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ... warning issued by FCC today

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 Yeah.  It's out there in the public eye already, whether legit or not.  To 
many people, any civilian with a HT is a ham. They don't necessarily make 
distinctions between Amateur Radio, CB, GMRS, FRS etc.

Best to cite and enforce existing laws than to create more laws and 
restrictions that will only affect law abiding citizens. 

On Sunday, January 17, 2021, 5:23:53 PM MST, Paul Horenstein K2PH via 
Elecraft  wrote:  
 
 There was an article on the front page of today's Washington Post that 
described people going to DC being assisted with their communications by "Ham 
Radio Operators". There was also much footage of the incident at the Capitol of 
people with HTs hangin off of their belts.. 
Been a lot of Baofengs advertised on "prepper" sites past few years too.


-Original Message-
From: Mike Morrow 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sun, Jan 17, 2021 7:12 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ... warning 
issued by FCC today

So...the FCC *specifically* cites only amateur and personal radio services as 
illegal for use in crime.

I wonder how long the list is of radio services that ARE FCC APPROVED for use 
in crime?

Silly nonsense this all is.  It does not bring credit to anyone calling 
attention to this total non-problem.

Mike / KK5F

-Original Message-
>From: K4HYJ via Elecraft 
>Sent: Jan 17, 2021 4:20 PM
>To: 'Wes' , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ...    
>warning issued by FCC today
>
>I feel safer now!!
>
>K4HYJ
>
>-Original Message-
>From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
>Behalf Of Wes
>Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2021 5:13 PM
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Waaay OT: A new kind of QRM to be aware of ...
>warning issued by FCC today
>
>Well I'm glad that CNN cleared that up and I'm so relieved to know that
>Amazon, Apple and Google are protecting me from unmoderated speech.
>
>N7WS
>
>On 1/17/2021 2:07 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
>> The FCC just posted this:
>>
>>      
>> https://www.fcc.gov/document/amateur-personal-radio-users-reminded-not
>> -use-radios-crimes
>>
>> I guess this isn't surprising, considering current events. But in case
>their motivation wasn't clear, see this interpretation:
>>
>>      
>> https://www.cnn.com/2021/01/17/tech/fcc-radio-extremist-social-media-a
>> ttack/index.html
>>
>> Chances are VHF+ bands are the more likely vehicle for this form of
>self-expression. It might get lost in the already "interesting" QRM on 75
>meters.
>>
>> 73,
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 USB cable

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 There is this:  
https://www.connectix.nl/pl2303hxa-phased-out-since-2012-please-contact-your-supplier-solved/

On Sunday, January 17, 2021, 4:46:04 PM MST, Dick Dievendorff 
 wrote:  
 
 This is probably a message from a Windows USB driver install.  I don’t recall 
adding that text to the K3 Utility.

Early KUSB cables used a chipset from a company named Prolofic.  Their brand 
fell on hard times, there were reportedly some counterfeits. Device driver 
support comes from the OS and device vendors, we use what’s there. I suspect 
Windows 10 no longer supports the Prolific chipset.

We’ve moved on (some years ago, more than 10) to USB to serial adapters that 
use the FTDI chipset. I’d recommend moving to an adapter with an FTDI chipset. 
Elecraft’s KUSB is not the only USB to Serial adapter with the FTDI chipset, 
but it does have jack screws to hold the 9-pin connector to the back of the K3. 
 

The K3 Utility will use whatever driver the OS provides for the selected COM 
port.

73 de Dick, K6KR

> On Jan 17, 2021, at 15:27, Chris Meagher  wrote:
> 
> Hi
> I recently acquired a new shack laptop, Win 10 Home,
> connected elecraft USB-RS232 cable to update firmware with the latest
> utility.
> But unsuccessful, got the message -
> 
> 
> So I ended up doing it no problems with an older Win 7 laptop.
> Does anyone have any experience with this or a solution?
> 
> thanks
> Chris    VK2ACD    K3/10 serial no. in the 600's
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Re: [Elecraft] Headphones

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

>>>The Sony phones are great. I didn't use them with ham radio though. Too 
>>>large of a freq response<<<
There're no undesirable frequencies in the audio going to my Sony phones so I 
don't need them to do any subsequent filtering.  The filtering and shaping of 
the audio occurs before the headphones. 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Head Phones

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
My MDR-1506 are ~20 years old.  Love them.  Recently replaced the pads again.  
There are many many different ear pads available on Amazon. 
On Wednesday, January 13, 2021, 3:51:37 PM MST, JP Douglas 
 wrote:  
 
 
I’ve got a Sennheiser headphone as well, they rock!
Also have the Yamaha headset, it’s not as good for noise cancelling as the 
Senheiser but it does have the mic.
Unless I’m in a situation where I have to use a headset with mic, I always go 
for the Senheiser.

73 de Jose Douglas KB1TCD

> On Jan 13, 2021, at 5:06 PM, Bill Frantz  wrote:
> 
> I have had some Sennheiser noise canceling headphones for perhaps 10 years. 
> They are still going strong with no significant signs of wear.
> 
> They work well for public service events involving parades because they make 
> it possible to hear while a high school band is playing in your ear. (You 
> also need a noise canceling mic so others can hear you over the band.)
> 
> I've never found them to be uncomfortable, even on extended airplane trip, 
> where they reduce the cabin noise level. I use them even if I'm not listening 
> to anything just to reduce the noise level.
> 
> 73 Bill AE6JV
> 
> On 1/13/21 at 4:17 PM, ecke...@gmail.com (Paul Ecker) wrote:
> 
>> Know this is a well worn out subject. But looking for a reasonably priced,
>> but comfortable set of headphones. Just the headphones, don't need a mic. A
>> set that is lightweight enough to wear for a few hours but reasonable
>> performance. Any recommendations?
>> 
>> 73 Paul w2eck
> 
> ---
> Bill Frantz        | Re: Computer reliability, performance, and security:
> 408-348-7900      | The guy who *is* wearing a parachute is *not* the
> www.pwpconsult.com | first to reach the ground.  - Terence Kelly
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Thoughts on MFJ-1026 or any other phasing box

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 My suggestion would be to try a small, low, horizontal receiving loop.  This 
seems to be the best option to reject nearby noise sources that propagate 
mainly via vertically polarized ground wave.  Even normally horizontally 
polarized antennas, e.g. dipoles, still have some projection in the vertical 
plane when viewed off axis.
A small RX loop is relatively cheap and easy to implement compared to a TX 
loop. 

On Thursday, January 7, 2021, 4:14:00 PM MST, Alan - G4GNX 
 wrote:  
 
 I have one and I also use an LZ1AQ double mag-loop. The mag-loop works 
pretty well with QRM from neighbours but it has limitations, especially 
when there's more than one source.

The MFJ unit kinda works, but you do need a good 'noise' antenna, which 
I haven't installed yet. I'll be using a mini-whip which comes 
recommended for the job. Again though, the MFJ has its limitations when 
there are multiple noise sources.

From reports I've read, some people find them great and others not so.

Take a look at a couple of YouTube videos, that might help you decide.

73,

Alan. G4GNX


-- Original Message --
From: "Dean L" 
To: "Elecraft Mail List" 
Sent: 07/01/2021 23:00:28
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Thoughts on MFJ-1026 or any other phasing box

>I have horrible noise ( assumedly from my neighbors) that i cant seem to
>kick on my K3 and kx3. The NB and NR dont touch it.
>Ive been watching youtube videos on this magic little box from MFJ that
>seems to do wonders on my type of noise.
>
>Has anyone a MFJ-1026 they no longer need?
>Any thoughts on this unit?
>
>Thanks for the bandwidth and 73
>
>Dean K2WW
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Long messages

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 >>> "life changes" ... Bill NY9H<<<
Yep.  I would posit that's why forums predominate now.  It puts the burden on 
the host, not the user and customer. 


On Monday, January 4, 2021, 6:53:03 AM MST, Bill Steffey NY9H 
 wrote:  
 
 thunderbird...

I made the change to Thunderbird years ago. I hesitated a few years , as 
I remember there was some feature of Eudora that I had to give up 
relating to the folders and sorting ...

life changes ...

HNY


On 1/4/2021 2:02 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
> I too use Thunderbird, and it is wonderful.  I look at 40 or so lists, 
> each has a folder, and Thunderbird has filters, so they all go 
> directly into their respective folders.
>

-- 
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 update path?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
Hey guys, thanks for all the pointers.  Joe 4X1RV emailed me a link to a guide 
to K2 updates compiled by LA3ZA that seems to be pretty comprehensive.  Looks 
like I have some research and studying to do.
https://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
I was marginally aware of some of the updates, but what spurred my interest was 
stumbling upon an Elecraft page for the K60XV option which listed a number of 
prerequisites I don't have and wasn't aware of.  The page doesn't look current 
(second bullet says no CW on 60m) and I haven't found the option as being 
available on the website.  I'm not greatly interested in 60m with my K2...is 
was just one of those rabbit holes I stumbled into. 

https://elecraft.com/pages/k60xv-upgrade-information
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K2/Manuals%20Downloads/E740069%20K60XV%20man%20rev%20B.pdf
Anyway, my K2 is working FB for my purposes so is not in desperate need of 
fixes or improvements.  It's just something I'm looking at.   I mean, who 
doesn't want to make their K2 the best it can be?
TNX Lou W7HV
On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 8:46:54 PM MST, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Hi Lou.

The dates of the updates are on the documentation on the Elecraft website. But 
as Don mentioned, the AtoB kit is the best guide. I will tell you from recent 
experience (still in progress) that if you try to install the updates in time 
sequential order, it will get confusing. There are several places where the 
updates overlap or contradict each other.

Doug, W0UHU.

> 
> On 1/3/2021 12:25 PM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:
>> Hey,?? I'm looking for a chronological list of K2 updates if such a thing 
>> exists.? A long while ago I remember somebody having compiled one.? I built 
>> my K2 and KPA100 ~20 years ago.? Early on, I kept it up to date.? I'd like 
>> to figure out what updates I don't have and which I might want to make...and 
>> what the availability is from Elecraft.
>> 
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Long messages

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 >>> Just another reason why a forum makes so much more sense than pushing out
emails to everyone. Barry W2UP<<<
That would def be my preference.  20 years ago, everything was reflectors, but 
Elecraft is the only one I'm dealing with now.  Much of the traffic is not 
really relevant to me and a well structured forum would make it much quicker 
and easier for the user to sort through, and easier to contribute to.
I had been out of the loop for quite a few years and now getting back into it, 
dusting off my K1 and K2,  and looking at new rigs, I was disappointed to find 
Elecraft still using a reflector. 
For me, Elecraft having a forum would "reflect" possessively on the company. 
Lou W7HV
On Monday, January 4, 2021, 6:13:06 AM MST, Barry  wrote: 
 
 
 Just another reason why a forum makes so much more sense than pushing out
emails to everyone.

Barry W2UP



--
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Re: [Elecraft] Reaching across the chronological divide

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 "Where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise." ?
On Sunday, January 3, 2021, 8:13:49 PM MST, Hank via Elecraft 
 wrote:  
 
 Is there a Loudenboomer III???  I must go buy it - I only have a Loundenboomer 
II!

> On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:07 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> Maxwell assured us that, if you get RF current to flow in a conductor that 
> isn't buried deeply, it will radiate. The the direction(s) of that radiation 
> may not be where you wish, but it will radiate.  This weakend, I made 127 
> QSO's in the ARRL RTTY Round-Up on 15, 20, 40, and 80 with 100W [K3] to a 
> HOA-stealthy WOOF antenna [Wire On Organic Fence: 41 m, end-fed, 1.8 m AGL].
> 
> I have noticed since the days when you built your TX from parts scarfed from 
> old TV sets:
> 
> 1.  Newer hams seem to believe that there is one "perfect" way to build an 
> antenna or use your radios and anything else will fail;
> 
> 2.  Newer hams, and some of the older ones, like to connect every possible 
> accessory and every possible computer/software product to their radios;
> 
> 3.  And when that doesn't work, the first question to the email list members 
> is, "My Loudenboomer III won't key.  Any ideas what's wrong?"  Somehow, the 
> art of isolating the pieces, such as, "disconnect the keyer/computer/software 
> and plug in a hand key -- or short the key line -- does it key now?" has been 
> lost in a sea of technology no one understands.
> 
> If the best of forecasts for Cycle 25 materialize, you will be able to repeat 
> the late 50's/early 60's and work the world on 10 m 24/7 with 15 W to the 
> window screen.  Happy New Year to all, activate safely.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 1/3/2021 2:39 PM, Joseph Shuman via Elecraft wrote:
>> I simply like the challenge of making contacts with antennas, in the opinion 
>> of the more learned, “that won’t work.”  I have been told to “Read the 
>> antenna book” because my experiments are “illogical.”  I guess I have to 
>> delete the contact I made using a chicken wire antenna?  Let’s all remember 
>> that Maxwell, Marconi, Hertz, Popov, Bose, Hughes and Fr. Roberto Landell de 
>> Moura did not have the internet or the Antenna Book.  They had each other.
>> 
>> Joe Shuman, NZ8P
>> 
> 
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[Elecraft] K2 update path?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

Hey,   I'm looking for a chronological list of K2 updates if such a thing 
exists.  A long while ago I remember somebody having compiled one.  I built my 
K2 and KPA100 ~20 years ago.  Early on, I kept it up to date.  I'd like to 
figure out what updates I don't have and which I might want to make...and what 
the availability is from Elecraft. 

TNX Lou W7HV
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Re: [Elecraft] Ice on dipole under snow under ice

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I imagine lying on the roof would usually be fine, except for being a little 
lower.  At a couple of different QTHs I had my antennas in the attic;  40-10m 
dipoles, 6m and 2m loops.  These were wood roofs with cedar shakes or asphalt 
shingles.  They all worked well when the roof was dry.  Wet definitely affected 
the SWR.  A wet roof has a lot more contaminants in the water making it more 
conductive than snow or pristine rainwater ice.  

At one point I had the shingles replaced.  The dipole SWR was way off from what 
it had been.  It turned out the new building code required metal edging under 
the shingles at the perimeter of the roof. 



On Wednesday, December 16, 2020, 7:18:56 AM MST, David Haines 
 wrote:  
 
 Fortunately the wire is caught under snow and ice on a timber frame 
building with asphalt shingles.  It seems to be working just fine. Even 
better than before, the dipole no longer can swing in the wind!
Maybe the next antenna should just lie on the roof!

I really appreciate "Instead of "shouldn't work," ask "what's the 
probability that it will work?"  Spoken like a true engineer who knows 
how to solve problems!

david
KC1DNY in Maine, awaiting another snow storm to put 7 more inches of 
protection on my dipole.

On 12/15/2020 2:23 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
> Snow and/or natural ice that fell from the sky is barely conductive if 
> at all and likely has zero effect.  All or part of your antenna laying 
> on the ground will sure lower it's radiating efficiency [although 
> maybe not as much as you might think], but HF radio is sometimes 
> magic.  Like quantum mechanics, it's all probabilities. Instead of 
> "shouldn't work," ask "what's the probability that it will work?" 
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> On 12/15/2020 9:45 AM, David Haines wrote:
>> Update:
>>
>> With one-quarter of one leg of the dipole still under ice, I got a 
>> reception report from PSKReporter on FT8 with 2 watts to Italy. That 
>> shouldn't work, should it?  Maybe the ice doesn't matter?
>>
>> KD5VXH recalled a discussion in QST on this very subject, where 400W 
>> AM melted the ice on one leg of the dipole (fed by coax), but not the 
>> other.
>> '
>> You can follow the controversy in May and July 1960 letters in QST!
>>
>> david
>> KC1DNY
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Ice on dipole under snow under ice

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 I haven't given this a lot of thought but:
1. Virtually none.  100W most radiated, leaving very little heating the 
ice/snow along your long cold wire. The wire itself won't heat up as it has 
very low resistance.
2. IDK about the KXPA100, but Tune is often done at low power, so if 100W work, 
Tune certainly won't.
3.  Need to check the SWR, but even if good initially, may vary a lot as 
ice/snow situation changes. This might test the SWR capability of the tuner and 
protection of the amp, which is best left untested.

If you do try it, keep it legal: Check the freq before transmitting, and be 
sure to identify.  Let us know how it goes. This might be the excuse you've 
needed to get that legal limit amp you've been wanting. 

Lou W7HV


On Sunday, December 13, 2020, 11:40:18 AM MST, David Haines 
 wrote:  
 
 Before I try something crazy, like climbing up on the roof ... .

We had an ice storm.  The ice pulled my wire dipole down to the roof, 
but didn't break it because one mask was Schedule 30, which leaned over 
nicely.  It then snowed on top of the ice.

I've been able to free the feedline (ladderline) and most of the dipole, 
but part of the dipole is till under the snow under a layer of ice way 
up on the roof.

I'm thinking of running 100W from my KXPA100 to melt it out of there,   
but before I try:

1.  Is there any chance of this working?
2.  Should I just transmit a TUNE through it?
3.  Can I damage the KXPA100 or tuner?

Right now the coax is not connected to the KX3 and I haven't tried to 
receive.

david
KC1DNY
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Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscope recs

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 
I opted for a Rigol DS1202Z-E.  

Thanks for all the great input.  These scopes are all amazing for the price and 
have way more capability than I'll use.  

Lou W7HV
On Wednesday, December 9, 2020, 3:38:33 PM MST, Rich NE1EE 
 wrote:  
 
 On 2020-12-09 14:04:-0500, Kevin Cozens wrote:
I just checked and if you do have a nearby computer and you connect it to the 
Rigol you can set the date and time using SCPI commands.

I just tried to get this to work...got a visa32.dll error, so did a massive NI 
update. Then I could start Ultrascope, but still not connect. Tried the web, 
but no joy...any advice?

~R~
72/73 de Rich NE1EE
The Dusty Key
On the banks of the Piscataqua

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Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscope recs

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

Wow.  A lot of great info.  Seems  Rajiv N2RD is the only one suggesting a 
dongle, which is initially where I thought I was going with this.  The Hantek 
IDSO1070A does usb/wifi to Android/iOS/Windows so phone/tablet/notebook/desktop 
should all work, and remotely within router range.  It runs off an internal 
Li-Ion, with those pros and cons. 

 Personally, unlike Rajiv, I believe I would prefer a complete box with 
display, knobs, and buttons over a computer interface, but the latter does seem 
offer some benefits. 

I saw the comment about the screen shots being saved to the computer not having 
time stamps.  Back in the day, my screen shot Polaroids that got taped into an 
paper notebook didn't have time stamps either, so I can def see the benefit 
there.
I'm still taking it all in and ruminating on it.  My need isn't urgent. 

TNX
Lou W7HV



   On Tuesday, December 8, 2020, 6:55:44 PM MST, Richard S. Leary 
 wrote:  
 
 I'll third the Siglent SDS 1202X-E. It also replaced my Tek 465. Plenty of
scope for my needs. Works well when working on a K2.

73,
Rick W7LKG



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Dave Van Wallaghen
Sent: Tuesday, December 8, 2020 17:08
To: Dave Fugleberg ; Louandzip 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Oscilloscope recs

I second the Siglent SDS 1202X-E. I bought one last year to service the
Elecraft rigs that come through and it is more scope than I need but has
some really nice features. A lot of scope for the money. Much smaller on my
bench than my old analog Tek 465.

73,
Dave, W8FGU
On December 8, 2020 16:05:01 Dave Fugleberg  wrote:

> I bought a Siglent SDS 1202X-E at Dayton a couple years ago. I really 
> like it. 200MHz dual trace, can control it and grab screenshots over 
> the network, does all kinds of measurements automatically, even does 
> decodes for a variety of serial data types. And it takes up far less 
> room on the bench than my old Tek scope.
> I recommend it.
> 73 de W0ZF
>
> On Tue, Dec 8, 2020 at 1:40 PM Louandzip via Elecraft < 
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>> I'm looking for a basic O scope for general HF ham use.  I figure 2 
>> channels and 50+ mHz bandwidth.  A few years ago I got rid of my old 
>> CRT 30mHz scope figuring I'd get something more modern and compact.  
>> I though USB, but I see full scopes are pretty cheap, $250 and up. I 
>> see some USB/WIFI types for 1/2 that.  So far, I'm looking at 
>> Siglent, Rigol, Hantek.  Any suggestions, recs or input?
>> TNX
>>
>> Lou W7HV
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[Elecraft] Oscilloscope recs

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

Hi,
I'm looking for a basic O scope for general HF ham use.  I figure 2 channels 
and 50+ mHz bandwidth.  A few years ago I got rid of my old CRT 30mHz scope 
figuring I'd get something more modern and compact.  I though USB, but I see 
full scopes are pretty cheap, $250 and up. I see some USB/WIFI types for 1/2 
that.  So far, I'm looking at Siglent, Rigol, Hantek.  Any suggestions, recs or 
input?
TNX 

Lou W7HV
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Re: [Elecraft] Kinda cool graphic of solar activity

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

 It's just a pretty picture.  Not useful for predicting propagation. 

W7HV

On Wednesday, December 2, 2020, 9:35:46 AM MST, Michael Walker 
 wrote:  
 
 If you really want to learn about the Solar Forecast, watch this.
This is all new science to solar storms and the talk directly impacts HF 
operators.
I won't spoil the ending, but if you want to see 10M open 24 hrs/day, it is 
worth watching.
https://youtu.be/lRNJPkQPo_g

Mike va3mw

On Wed, Dec 2, 2020 at 11:17 AM Louandzip via Elecraft 
 wrote:

From ESA
http://www.esa.int/var/esa/storage/images/esa_multimedia/images/2020/11/soho_25_years_of_solar_imaging/22352502-1-eng-GB/SOHO_25_years_of_solar_imaging_pillars.jpg
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[Elecraft] Kinda cool graphic of solar activity

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

>From ESA
http://www.esa.int/var/esa/storage/images/esa_multimedia/images/2020/11/soho_25_years_of_solar_imaging/22352502-1-eng-GB/SOHO_25_years_of_solar_imaging_pillars.jpg
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[Elecraft] Gud place to sell rigs?

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

There's eBay of course, but anything better and more focused on high quality 
stuff?  I've been out of circulation for a while so don't know what other 
options there may be.  Not Elecraft, btw, as I'm not ever going to sell my K2, 
K1 and related items. 

Lou W7HV
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[Elecraft] Sunspots and the K2, K1

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I built my K2 and then a K1 during the solar maximum in 2001/2.  One of the 
hallmarks of the K2 is it strong signal rejection.  It was one of the best 
radios of the time and is still among the better radios today.  The K1 isn't 
really in the same league, but it's no slouch either.  The worst test I put it 
to was operating in CH on 40m during a contest weekend during a business trip.  
Huge wall to wall signals but I was able to participate fine.
Somebody mentioned switching in the K1's attenuator.  Originally, doing so 
created a loud audio pop.  I came up with a mod to eliminate this, adding a RFC 
across the contacts of the relay K1 (coincidentally) which was adopted as part 
of the design.  

I grinned when I saw Wayne N6KR's terse response.  He's still justifiable proud 
and protective of his babies.
Lou W7HV
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[Elecraft] K2 Purchase considered.

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

You sound exactly like me 20 years ago.  I built a K2 with all the options 
including the KPA100 but no KSB2.  They weren't all available yet when I built 
the K2 but as they became available they were all fun little add on projects, 
except the KPA100, which was a bigger fun add-on project.  Lots of toroids to 
wind, though bigger in the KPA100.  When I was building the K2 there was still 
some debugging and optimization of the design going on.  I was in the thick of 
it back then and have many many posts in the reflector archives. 

The K2 is the by far the best radio you will assemble yourself. 15-20 years ago 
it was still one of the best performing radios available. And, though things 
have moved on,  it still performs better than many current radios and is still 
one of my favorite radios to use.  I've been inactive on-and off since the 
early '00s but I've never run into a situation where its sensitivity or 
selectivity was limiting; DX pileups, contests, long ragchews, no problem. 
(still CW only and no KSB2). 

It's got a microprocessor of course, but all the signal processing and RF is 
analog, and done with the circuits you built; winding toroids, soldering all 
the discrete components, and aligning and troubleshooting it all in the end.  
If it's not working great, there's probably something you need to figure out 
and fix.  If you study it as you go, you'll learn a heck of a lot about how 
radios work.
Personally, I don't find SDR, DSP, digital modes and all the wizzbang 
associated features that interesting.  My favorite rigs include the K2, K1, 
Wilderness SST, and Rockmite with Miniboots amp.   The K1 is a lot of fun and I 
used to use it as a nice compact rig to take along on business trips.  Too bad 
it's not available anymore.
There's lots of room for different interests in ham radio.
Lou W7HV
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[Elecraft] Friture spectrum analyzer for K2 filter alignment

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I have no experience with Friture but it looks like it would work. FWIW,  
Spectrogram 16.0.4.0 runs fine on my up-to-date Win10 computer.
Lou W7HV
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[Elecraft] K2 CW transmit hum

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I got bad TX hum when I temporarily place my K2 on top of a 35A Astron power 
supply.  Seemed to be from the transformer's leaked magnetic field and went 
away if I lifted the K2 just an inch or two.    I'm sure I posted about it in 
the reflector, but that was pushing 20 years ago.  My call might have been 
different at the time. 

W7HV
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[Elecraft] Back with a K1 and K2

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

Welp, I'm back after about a 17 year hiatus.  Dusted off and checked out the 
old K1 and it seems to be working gud.  I had a question, the old tx offset 
issue, but got it sorted using an alternative method.  I see they subsequently 
modified the circuit and added a switch to the bottom of the pca instead of old 
the temporary jumper method. Anyway, the K2 is waiting in the wings.  I need to 
get some sort of antenna working at the new temporary qth.  I'm a bit surprised 
to find the reflector still going.  I expected they'd have transitioned to a 
forum format by now, with threading and all that good stuff.  

W7HV
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