[Elecraft] Weird sounds coming from my K1...need a qualified exorcist

[Stephen Roberts]

Sorry. I had the page on my site set to private. The link should work now.

http://w1sfr.com/weird-k1-audio/ 


Here's what happened:

I turned on the radio to get on the air tonight.
It made this sound when I turned it on and after it booted up the sound went 
away.
I plugged in the cable to my paddle and it made the sound.
It makes the sound when I key the radio.
It makes the sound if I activate "tune" on the radio.

Steve
W1SFR


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[Elecraft] Weird sounds coming from my K1...need a qualified exorcist

[Stephen Roberts]

http://w1sfr.com/weird-k1-audio/ 


Here's what happened:

I turned on the radio to get on the air tonight.
It made this sound when I turned it on and after it booted up the sound went 
away.
I plugged in the cable to my paddle and it made the sound.
It makes the sound when I key the radio.
It makes the sound if I activate "tune" on the radio.

Steve
W1SFR


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[Elecraft] K1 Problems

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm suddenly out of a signal. I get hiss but no signal. I'm using a k1 fil 2 
40/20 board.

I was getting weak gain on the 40m side so went in to peak the L1/L2 L5/L6 
Inductors.
I messed about with them but was unable to peak them as I heard no change in the
volume of the hiss.

I also tried C2 Gain tweak and not joy there either. I hear no change in the 
hiss volume
as I turn it.

I rigged up my 7300 with a dummy load and xmitted on 7050 and 14050 and heard a 
signal
but still no effect by changing L1/L2 or L5/L6

I pulled the band board looking for any issues with soldering or whatever and 
found 
nothing. Put the board back in and now I get zip. No receive at all, just 
hissing.

It was working fine yesterday although I felt the gain was very low and needed 
adjustment
which led me to this point in time.

Suggestions on how to get it going again?

73
Steve, W1SFR


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[Elecraft] Novice looking for a loaded K1

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone have one to sell? I'm trying to get a new op up and running and after 
trying my K1, he just has to have one ;-)

Steve—W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 issues with RIT and ATT Led's

[Stephen Roberts]

Several responded and it was a couple of things. First was that the main IC 
wasn't seated completely. I removed it, checked the pins and straightened them 
a bit. That apparently brought the LED's back to life so when I powered up I 
could see them initialize. Then I went to the menu and turned them on. Didn't 
even know there was a menu choice that controlled the LED's. Felt kinda dumb 
when I was told about that. Oh well, I'll take an easy fix any day...

Steve
W1SFR
w1sfr.com 


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[Elecraft] WTB Tuner and Noise Blanker for the K1

[Stephen Roberts]

Can you tell I just got a "new" K1? I've had more than a few over the years. My 
most recent one needs some upgrades. I have a T1 tuner but would like to find 
the KAT1 tuner and the noise blanker.

I knowgood luck eh?

Let me know...

73,
Steve, W1SFR
w1sfr.com
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[Elecraft] K1 Issues with RIT and ATTN LED's not functioning

[Stephen Roberts]

I recently purchased a K1 and found that the LED's for the RIT and ATTN don't 
function correctly. When I turn on the rig the LED's cycle correctly then go 
out. When I push either of the buttons and turn the RIT or ATTN on, neither of 
the lights come on. 

73,
Steve, W1SFR
w1sfr.com 



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[Elecraft] Setting the K2 real time clock

[Stephen Roberts]

Well, I'm following the instructions but when I get to the part of actually 
changing the time or date by using the Band+ or Band- buttons, nothing happens. 
the current date is showing correctly and the time is 6 hrs behind UTC. 

73,
Steve, W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] Looking for a Kio2 for my K2

[Stephen Roberts]

Found one. Now to find an amp...



On Sep 29, 2017, at 3:09 PM, Stephen Roberts <steve...@shoreham.net> wrote:

Anyone?

73,
Steve, W1SFR


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[Elecraft] Looking for a Kio2 for my K2

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone?

73,
Steve, W1SFR


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[Elecraft] WANTED: K2 KIO2, Filter/Clock etc.

[Stephen Roberts]

Just got a K2 and want to eventually put the amp and tuner in. If you have 
anything around that will fit the K2 and isn't being used, let me know. Thanks!

I would also trade my Kenwood TS-590S straight up for a fully loaded K2 system.

73,
Steve-W1SFR
KX3Helper.com
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Re: [Elecraft] getting started with QRP

[Stephen Roberts]

Hi Mark,

Happy New Year to you too!!

I've been a ham for 3 yrs now and about 99% CW/QRP.

Forget about watering holes and concentrate more on the most active bands at 
any given time. 10M has been fantastic lately and when it's open, you will find 
it's a great place to get QRP DX. Same with 17M. At night, it's 20m and 30m 
early then on to 40m and 80m. Check out some of the sprints that the QRP clubs 
sponsor. ARCI, NAQCC, SKCC. It's a good way to get on the air and hear a lot of 
other QRP'rs.

Here's a great link farm for QRP
http://www.amqrp.org/misc/links.html

Someone else mentioned the EARCHI antenna. I had one and I liked it so much, I 
started making a version of that antenna that many hundreds of ops have been 
very happy with. You can read all about it here: 
http://kx3helper.com/endfed-40-6m-antenna/

Many of the do's and don'ts already mentioned are good advice. A lot of the fun 
is telling the op on the other end just after he gives you a 599 and tells you 
that he's using the Wizbang 5000 1200w amp, that you're using your KX3 at 5W. 
Ha! That's sum good radio fun.

Have a good time and I'll look for you on the air.


Best 72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









On Jan 4, 2015, at 1:34 PM, Mark Tellez wrote:

 Hello all and happy 2015!
 
 I am not new to amateur radio but I am new to the world of QRP.
 I recently received a KX3 and would like to try it out.  I live in Colorado
 and I have access to both a Buddipole and an Alexloop antenna.
 
 I have a few questions as a QRP newbie:
 
 1) what are the most popular QRP bands for monitoring and what are the main
 calling frequencies (day and night)?
 
 2) is there a book or website that will give a QRP newbie some background
 info on the do and don'ts of QRP?
 
 3) I am looking for an antenna that can be left attached to the KX3 that
 will provide decent HF reception so that I can monitor frequencies during
 the times when my other antennas are put away.  Any suggestions?
 
 4) I am considering buying a PAR end fed antenna.   Any comments on the PAR
 vs my other options (Alexloop, Buddipole)?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Mark
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 case advice

[Stephen Roberts]

I think Rose is still making cases: I have one and it's the best. I can get my 
whole station in it no problem. KX3, All accessories, log book/tablet, 50' of 
coax, Antenna and throwing line kit.

http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/7058736_hZbo4/1/452236459_Bc3aF#!i=452236459k=vLrLtL2


Best 72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









On Dec 18, 2014, at 3:55 PM, Mark Tellez wrote:

 Hello,
 
 I am looking for a case that will protect my KX3.  I have the sidekick
 handles and cover attached and also the Pro-Engineering heat sink.  I was
 originally hoping to use the Hazard 4 Jelly Roll case but I found out that
 it is too snug (just barely) with these extra items attached.   Any
 suggestions?
 
 
 
 Mark
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[Elecraft] Anyone have a K1 they would consider selling?

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm thinking about getting a K1 for portable ops. Anyone have one they might 
want to part with?

73
Steve, W1SFR
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[Elecraft] KXPA100 play nice with an LDG AT 100 PROII?

[Stephen Roberts]

Can't afford to get the tuner and the amp so thinking of just getting the amp 
for now. Do you think there would be a major diff using an outboard tuner like 
the LDG?

Steve, W1SFR



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW decoder and CQ CW contest

[Stephen Roberts]

HiHi...that's a good one.

No mention in this thread about using a single lever paddle as a sideswiper. It 
may sound strange, but it's now my favorite form of sending CW. Like using a 
straight key on steroids.

On the other hand, using a straight key still gives me warm fuzzies.


Best 72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Stuff for portable ops and Keys too.
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









On Dec 2, 2014, at 4:55 AM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

 I recently had a QSO with a guy who kept sending his call with a 4S9 prefix. 
 I didn't get it right until he told me his QTH, in Switzerland (complete call 
 and QTH left out to protect the guilty).
 Oh well, time to get out my bug and call NN GT.
 
 Vic 4X6GP/K2VCO
 

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[Elecraft] Looking for specs for finger pieces for Begali Pearl

[Stephen Roberts]

I want to make some wood fingerpieces for a buddy of mine for his Pearl. I'm 
looking for some measurements...especially screw size and hole spacing.




Best 72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Stuff for Portable ops and Keys too
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









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[Elecraft] BHI DSP Speaker for sale…new

[Stephen Roberts]

I have a BHI DSP speaker for sale that has never been used. Comes with 3.5mm 
cable and fused power cable with PP connectors.

$159 with free shipping.

Replies off list please.

Steve, W1SFR
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Re: [Elecraft] Text Decode Issues

[Stephen Roberts]

Hi Gary,

Yes, and it's curious that there are clearly better decoders out there. I built 
an Open QRP rig last year and the decoder was phenomenal...much better than the 
KX3, so assuming this is a software issue, is this something that the Elecraft 
engineers are looking at?

73, Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)


On Apr 20, 2014, at 9:11 PM, Gary NL7Y wrote:

 Not sure if it's comparable to the KX3, but I find the current K3's decode to
 be relatively worthless compared with the original version I owned years
 ago. Something has changed and somewhere I read it was given it's own AGC or
 whatever for an improvement. 
 
 I can send and receive CW to my satisfaction, so for me it's just something
 I use as a background visual source for my P3/SVGA/monitor while I'm doing
 something else. 
 
 If I want to really decode some contest 30-40 CW I use the small portable
 audio-fed Microcraft Multi-mode gizmo I bought years ago. Works perfectly
 while the K3 fumbles with the same source. Only the loudest and clearest
 gets unscrambled.
 
 73, Gary NL7Y
 
 
 
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 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Text-Decode-Issues-tp7587553p7587573.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Text Decode Issues

[Stephen Roberts]

Well Gary, that goes without saying, but the issue was a comparison between 
text decoders and I was simply stating the fact that the KX3 decoder isn't the 
brightest bulb in the chandelier IMHO.

I am a diehard student and lover of CW, and I have to admit when I'm in some 
QSO's where the other op is droning along parroting everything I sent, 
sometimes the mind wanders and I cheat a bit and see if I can catch what he/she 
is saying by glancing at the display. I knowI know


Steve, W1SFR



On Apr 21, 2014, at 10:11 AM, AG0N-3055 wrote:

 On Mon, 21 Apr 2014 09:32:59 -0400, Stephen Roberts wrote:
 
 Yes, and it's curious that there are clearly better decoders out there.
 I built an Open QRP rig last year and the decoder was phenomenal...
 much better than the KX3, so assuming this is a software issue, is this
 something that the Elecraft engineers are looking at?
 
 Dumb question time.  Why don't you just learn to operate CW the way most
 people do?  CW is supposed to be a manual mode.  It is an ART.  Copying
 CW is a part of the tradition of amateur radio.  If you have to have
 perfect CW to be decoded, it's the same as or worse than RTTY.  Your
 brain can decode CW with missing characters and elements quite nicely.
 
 Use your head!
 
 Gary
 -- 
 http://ag0n.net
 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] Text Decode Issues

[Stephen Roberts]

I'll be honest with you, I've given up on the KX3 decode. It's ok, but not 
great. I have the same issue with R...almost always displays as EN.


On Apr 20, 2014, at 2:23 PM, HREFAB wrote:

 I am noticing that my KX3 has a very hard time actually decoding CW that is
 sent/received. I have tried several thresholds, adjusted my key and tried
 alternate sending techniques (weighting, timing etc.). MY problem is mostly
 the KX3's inability to differentiate the letter P when sending. (as in my
 call sign KD2FIP). I can make out the calls of code received most of the
 time, and I know that not everyone sends perfect code, but even so, I get
 a lot of jumble even when listening to ARRL.
 
 I know that I am sending the letter correctly, but the display will 99x out
 of 100 display it as 'EG as in KD2FIEG. It's a minor point, but something
 that I'd like to sort out. any suggestions would be welcome.
 
 73
 Jim
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] # 5607 first contact QRP!

[Stephen Roberts]

You're right of course. It takes some time to get comfortable with QRP and its 
limitations, and you're right, that it can be a source of frustration for many 
new hams.  Your are also absolutely right that when you ad a crappy antenna to 
the mix, it can be very frustrating indeed. But that's the fun of learning and 
discovering all that is ham radio. 

I started with an OHR 100a 40m rig and a homebrew magloop antenna set up on a 
tripod in my kitchen. I was happy as a clam and simply didn't know what I was 
missing and found plenty of QSO's to keep me occupied while I figured out what 
it was all about. I had other ham friends telling me that I was setting myself 
up for disappointment if I didn't get at least a 100W radio, but I stuck it out 
and never felt that I was missing much. I still feel that way, and I'm still 
having fun.


72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









On Feb 5, 2014, at 5:10 PM, Vic Rosenthal K2VCO wrote:

 Actually, many QRPers seem to be saying that it's /easy/ to work the world 
 with 5 watts and a crummy antenna, and it's sinful to use more power, or, God 
 forbid, a beam.
 
 It is /hard/ to work DX with 5 watts and a low dipole (or worse, a Buddipole 
 or similar antenna). This can be very frustrating to new hams who have yet to 
 develop the operating skills that make this possible.
 
 QRP is great fun, but the 13 dB between 5 and 100 watts is very significant. 
 And the difference between a short, loaded vertical and a beam can be even 
 more significant.
 
 On 2/5/2014 1:34 PM, EricJ wrote:
 Sorry to point out the obvious, but that could be said of any power
 level. And add band conditions at any particular point in time. There's
 nothing magic about 5 watts out and there's no more magic at 100 watts
 out. 100 watts will get out some times when 5 watts won't, but 5 watts
 (or far less) will get out a lot more times than most hams realize. I
 think that's all most QRPers are saying.
 
 Eric
 KE6US
 
 
 
 
 On 2/5/2014 12:18 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
 Sorry to be a wet blanket, but it's the antennas and the operators (on
 both ends) that makes QRP work (or not).
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
 -- 
 73,
 
 Vic, K2VCO
 
 Fresno CA
 
 http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
 
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Re: [Elecraft] OCFs

[Stephen Roberts]

I also use the 7 band Buckmaster OCF antenna. My config is the long leg is 
East/West and 80' on one end and about 50 on the other (also sloping property). 
The short leg is at a right angle and is about 50' on one end and probably 30 
on the other. It's fed with about 30' of coax.

It's a fantastic antenna and I can work coast to coast QRP. It also works DX 
nicely and I've worked Antarctica, NZ, etc. I think I'm up to 185 countries now 
QRP.

Steve
W1SFR
Kx3helper.com

Sent from my iPad

 On Jan 11, 2014, at 1:50 PM, Barry LaZar k3...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Doug,
Nice write up.
 Other Readers,
I'd like to make a comment about the antenna as I know more than just a 
 little about the things. An off center fed, OCF, dipole is not a magic 
 antenna as some hams have come to believe. They are just a good wire antenna 
 that is fed in a way to make them appear to have a 50 Ohm impedance. They are 
 based on the 1/2 wave dipole which only has a workable impedance at 1/2 wave. 
 At even multiples of a 1/2 wave, the antenna exhibits a high impendance which 
 most radios do not like. So, way back in radio history a smart guy said if I 
 don't feed the dipole in the center I can find a spot that looks like 300 
 Ohms and use a transformer to make it look like 50 Ohms over several bands. 
 When he invented that antenna, the only odd band was 15 meters. What that 
 meant was that if you created an 80 meter OCF dipole, you could use it on 40, 
 20, and 10 meters, without a tuner.
 
The basic 1/2 wave dipole antenna can be awesome if hung up at some 
 reasonable height. When fed in the center it is going to have a very high 
 SWR, which means you need to be careful of transmission line loss and have 
 some way to deal with the SWR. Open wire feeders handle the loss issue and a 
 very good tuner does the rest. Or you go to the OCF dipole and use a 6:1 
 CURRENT balun or balun and line isolator.
 
When a dipole is operated at multiples of a 1/2 wave you can actually 
 develops gain in the plane of the antenna. How much gain and lobe direction 
 is a function of how many 1/2 waves the antenna is.
 
Those of you who want a good basic antenna and don't want to spent a lot 
 and can get it up about 30-35 feet or higher go for the OCF dipole. I think 
 you'll be happy. I have one up in my yard at about 40' on one end and about 
 35 on the other( it has to do with the slope of the land) and, as Doug, I 
 work out everywhere. There are several sources for the basic OCF antenna and 
 a source for a variant that I run. However, building one is a snap. Just go 
 to Home Depot and buy 135' of #12 stranded insolated house wire ( color is 
 unimportant ) have it cut such that the cut is about a 1/3 of the way off an 
 end. Pick up some insulators at a hamfest and order either a 4:1 or 6:1 
 CURRENT balun. feed the beast with some low loss or reasonable loss cable, 
 and then sit back and have fun. I would expect DXCC in 30 days, band 
 conditions being good.
 
Some final comments. I use #12 insulated, stranded wire just for the extra 
 strength. I don't want to be puting up a new antenna every time we have high 
 winds or ice. You could use #14 which most use, but like I said I don't want 
 to have to re-install my antenna. You will need an antenna tuner, but that is 
 OK as you will now be able to use the antenna on all bands 80-10. Lastly, if 
 you don't have 135' feed of horizontal space you could bend the ends down to 
 fit if it represents a minor portion of the antenna Or you could build a 40 
 meter version using 66' of wire and just not work 80 effectively; I can 
 actually get mine to tune on 80, but it isn't great.
 
 73,
 Barry
 K3NDM
 
 
 
 
 
 On 1/11/2014 12:34 PM, Doug Ellmore Sr. wrote:
 I saw some discussions on OCFS.  I thought I would share my setup.
 
 I worked 160+ countries with a Buckmaster 8 band OCF QRP.   K3NDM and N3HU
 have observed its operation with my former ICOM 703, K3 and KX3.
 
 I think Buckmaster uses a 6:1 balun.  I have my feedpoint at the peak of my
 house about 34'  fed with 60' LMR400.  The feedline drops down the roof 45
 deg then perpindicular to the ground.  It is connected to a static arrestor
 before being fed back up to the 2nd floor shack.  The long leg is supported
 by a 14' 4x4 support north of my house but far enough away with a rope the
 the end is 18-20' above the ground.  The short leg is supported by a tree
 up ~20' up SSE of the house.
 
 I used the internal tuner to tweak swr, but have also used the kx3  
 SB-200 to get 200 watts with no tuner with no problems.
 
 Check the specs on the Buckmaster, it might help those trying the OCF setup.
 
 A north to south orientation seems to help me work good dx from Maryland.
 
 73,
 
 Doug, NA1DX
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Re: [Elecraft] ]KX3] Another Dear Santa letter

[Stephen Roberts]

I prefer to actually plug a bug into my KX3 ;-)


72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









On Dec 23, 2013, at 3:53 PM, K7JLTextra wrote:

 It has been 30+ years since I owned  used a bug but I would give it a go if 
 it was a KX3 option. 
 
 John Hendricks K7JLT
 
 On Dec 23, 2013, at 12:48, Richard Patrick patri...@harbornet.com wrote:
 
 Greetings,
 
 My Holiday Season gift for my friend, my KX3, is The BUG mode as one of the
 CW keying options.
 
 Currently, KX3 provides me with Iambic A or B and HAND.  Having the BUG
 option would sure be nice for us old timers to step into the good old days
 using the KX3s paddle.  Also, there's some of out here in radio land who
 prefer a BUG vs Iambic.
 
 It seems to me that the Elecraft Santas and supporting Elves can make this
 happen just as easy as... adding the Heil Dynamic Mic option... with a
 software upgrade sometime soon.
 
 Anyone else interested in the BUG CW option?
 
 Thanks and Seasons Greetings to all,
 
 71r5
 Rich KR7W
 Tacoma, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

[Stephen Roberts]

Yes, a proper crimp is important especially if you're using smaller ga wire. If 
that's the case folding the wire over enough that it fills the connector is a 
good idea, then a good healthy crimp. If the connection will not suffer any 
repeated flexings, I also solder mine just to make sure when wire is less than 
18ga.

72/73
Steve

-
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT
http://www.kx3helper.com
Fists, CW OPS, QRP ARCI, SKCC, NEQRP, NAQCC, FP, ARRL, Green Mountain Wireless 
Society
(802)779-7489 (cell)









On Dec 9, 2013, at 12:12 PM, EricJ wrote:

 I agree with this advice about using the crimper and would add one other 
 important thing. The crimp tension is adjustable on the approved crimper. 
 Too light and obviously you don't get proper welding between connector and 
 wire. But too tight and you distort the crimp. Both can prevent fully seating 
 the contact in the housing. And the connector doesn't do it's job unless it 
 is fully seated. I always listen for the click, then inspect it visually. 
 I've found APPs to be very reliable when all the details are attended to, 
 including periodically checking crimp tension.
 
 Eric
 KE6US
 
 On 12/8/2013 7:32 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
 
 I did buy the approved crimper, and I did learn how to use it. I've never 
 had a failure.  Learning how to use the crimper was not a slam-dunk, I 
 realized finally that exact positioning in the crimper and exact orientation 
 of the wire was critical. 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Low Rider Stand

[Stephen Roberts]

Or you could get one of my stands which gets high marks from users.

http://kx3helper.com/kx3-helper/

73
Steve, W1SFR

Sent from my iPad

 On Nov 29, 2013, at 9:10 AM, Fred Smith m...@totalhighspeed.com wrote:
 
 The Nifty Stand is perfect for use with or without paddles. I'm a non-CW
 op and would not want one any shorter than it is for sure The back of the
 KX3 on the nifty stand is not quite 1 1/2 off my table the front almost 2
 and the angle is excellent for viewing.
 
 
 73,
 Fred/N0AZZ
 K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
 P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
 Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
 300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Richard Newstead
 Sent: Friday, November 29, 2013 6:34 AM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 Low Rider Stand
 
 Hi guys
 
 Yesterday someone contacted me and pointed out that all the KX3 stands
 around were designed to sit the KX3 quite high up to allow the Elecraft
 paddle to be fitted. He suggested that not everyone uses the Elecraft
 paddle, and of course not everyone uses CW (surely not??!!). For those folk
 he suggested a lower stand would be be easier to use.
 
 That sounded like a good idea so I have been working this morning on our new
 Low Rider stand. It lays flat like its big brother but it sits the
 KX3 lower down (about 1.25 inches from the desk).
 
 Here it is...
 
 http://www.sotabeams.co.uk/kx3-low-rider-stand/
 
 73 Richard G3CWI
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Re: [Elecraft] KXPD3 and single-lever paddles

[Stephen Roberts]

Bill,

I've had a LOT of different keys and also settled on the Whiterook as a 
knockabout QRP key. I think it's really an excellent key. Lots of fun to use as 
a sideswiper too, and just a tad cheaper thanwell just about everything 
other than a couple of nails in a plank and a hack saw blade!

I got the leg strap and it works fine although I found myself just holding on 
to it most of the time, but the leg strap allows you to have a free hand for 
logging etc so a nice option to have.

72,
Steve
W1SFR



On Sep 29, 2013, at 4:07 PM, Bill W4ZV wrote:

 Dennis L. Haarsager wrote
 my ability to squeeze the paddles as fast as my CW brain is
 working  is probably impaired over what it was back in the day.
 
 As Sverre correctly points out in his article:
 
 The issue must be tolerance to errors, not just efficiency.
 
 For those who truly squeeze as required by true Iambic (as opposed to many
 who use a dual paddle key as a single lever in non-Iambic), timing the
 squeeze is more critical than slapping a single lever back and forth.  For
 the HST guys, timing at ~60 WPM rates becomes very critical.  For older
 hands that have lost some fine motor control, timing is also critical
 although at much lower speeds.
 
 For sending at typical QRP speeds, there's no need to spend $335 for a
 Begali Adventurer.  Here's a video of the $30 Whiterook MK-33 sending at ~25
 WPM:
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embeddedv=xK01E39GQ38#t=23
 
 For another $10, they make a leg strap which is nice for portable or mobile
 operation.  I recently gave a MK-33 and leg strap to my stepson Christian
 KF4LXB for his birthday.  Here's his report:
 
 http://www.uwharrieqrp.com/2013/09/new-addition-to-portable-kit-whiterook.html
  
 
 Of course you can also roll your own with some old relay parts.  I did this
 for my KD1JV ATS-3 Transceiver that I sometimes use for SOTA activations:
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wutov8MVr6Q
 
 BTW you're near several SOTA summits in case you like to hike and operate
 outdoors with your KX3.  
 
 73,  Bill  W4ZV
 
 
 
 
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KXPD3-and-single-lever-paddles-tp7579364p7579380.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] The Joy of QRP

[Stephen Roberts]

Sorry no joy there Rick, but at least you had a nice day in the great outdoors.

My latest adventure was a QSO with a station in Japan on 20m yesterday (I'm 
in VT with a KX3). I have to count countries, but after about a year and a half 
of operating, I'm up to 150 or so. Still trying to reach that Myanmar 
operation, bit no luck so far. I don't think my antenna is up to it. BUT like 
John Shannon has said in his FISTS piece recently, the pleasure and challenge 
of low power QSO's makes up for the occasional inability to make a contact.

72/73
Steve
W1SFR


On Sep 26, 2013, at 3:37 AM, Rick M0LEP wrote:

 On Thu 26 Sep Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 Y'know, most of the DX I work is on dead bands, usually 20 meters
 
 Yeah, QRP often has the best chance when the bands are dead. Once the 
 big guns get the idea that a band is open QRP can get quite difficult. I 
 was out on a SOTA summit yesterday with my KX3 trying to get another 12 
 metres challenge multiplier, and I could hear quite a bit of activity on 
 the band, but wasn't able to make myself heard either when I called CQ 
 or when I answered others' calls.
 
 -- 
 ... 73, Rick, M0LEP
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Poles

[Stephen Roberts]

The last batch of PP's I purchased were pre welded together, which is very 
convenient. A spot of super glue also works well.

Steve
W1SFR

Sent from my iPad

On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:35 AM, Fred Smith m...@totalhighspeed.com wrote:

 When I first tried my hand at power poles they came apart as soon as I put
 them together. Had issues for some time till I finally showed a friend one
 of them and he said no wonder you prepped them great, the problem but all
 are installed upside down 8(
 
 For some time now all of mine are very dependable and used for almost
 everything. The key to it if you're going to be installing many is a good
 quality crimping tool.
 
 
 73,
 Fred/N0AZZ
 K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
 P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Art Bross
 Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 11:25 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] PowerPoles
 
 If they are coming apart easily then you are not building them right. I have
 done thousands and learned a few things in the process. (I make and sell
 cables at hamfests.) They should take at least 10 pounds of pressure to pull
 them apart. It should take enough pressure to connect them that you should
 hear a 'snap' when putting them together. Take a look at the front end of
 the pins. You should see at east 1/16 to 1/8 of pin sticking up above the
 plastic shell when assembled right. If not, take a screwdriver and put it
 under the pin and pry it up until the pin just rests on the spring. Ideally
 the pin should just rest on the top of the spring, not push down on it.
 Crimping them tends to bend the spring down so they should be bent straight
 before inserting them into the housings. You may also have to do this
 adjustment if the connector gets used a lot. People think that assembling
 these things is a simple process but there are some nuances to getting them
 right. Worst case, if  you don' t want them coming apart use the plastic
 clips or make a U clip out of a piece of 12 gauge wire. I've also used 1/2
 inch staples from the hardware store.
 
 What really torques my jaws is people who put PowerPoles down who can't put
 them together right.
 
 Art
 
 KC7GF
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Amazing Customer Service

[Stephen Roberts]

Totally agree. I've had a Yaesu radio and customer service is nonexistent. I've 
owned a K2, K1 and KX1 and just ordered a KX3 and I actually look forward to 
talking the the folks at Elecraft because it's such a refreshing change from 
the usual fare of people that know nothing reading from a customer service 
script every time you call. To me it's well worth the price and it's made in 
the USA. Who could ask for more?

73
Steve
W1SFR




On May 29, 2013, at 2:28 PM, Bill wrote:

 To make money you must have happy customers and sell solid products. Elecraft 
 appears to be spot on for both points.
 
 I enjoy my K3 and P3 with various add-ons to suit my needs. When I have a 
 question - I contact Elecraft and ALWAYS get a prompt and accurate answer.  
 Will I buy more Elecraft products? Of course I will. My decision to stay with 
 Elecraft products is based in part to the quality and ability of the 
 hardware. The other part is the customer service.
 
 YKI and a couple of others make good rigs - but, you will never get the super 
 Elecraft style customer service from them.
 
 Bill W2BLC
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Solar Panel

[Stephen Roberts]

Check this out.

I got one and it works great.

http://acmeqrp.com


73
Steve
W1SFR



On May 27, 2013, at 6:50 PM, Lee Stephens wrote:

 
 Thanks John,
 
 That satisfies my need on several levels.
 
 1. I can set the output voltage and then lock the set screw so it doesn't 
 move if bumped.
 2. It weighs 1.6 ounces
 3. I can make up whatever length leads I want with APP connectors
 4. The output voltage isn't going to waver unless the input voltage drops 
 below the desired output...say clouds roll up and it goes from 16 vdc to 13 
 vdc and I have it to ~13 vdc.
 5. They are in Akron, OH and the shipping time to Northern Kentucky wouldn't 
 be very long and they say they are in stock.
 
 Again, Thanks John,
 
 73,
 
 Lee Stephens
 KK4JSJ
 KX3 #3462
 
 
 
 On Monday 05/27/2013 at 6:34 pm, Dr John H Farmer  wrote:
 
 
 Hi Lee,
 
 The open circuit voltage on these panels is often higher than is acceptable 
 to the radio's input regulator.
 
 I use one of these:
 
 http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/anyvolt3
 
 
 They're tiny and weigh nothing. I have leads with APP connections attached 
 to it.
 
 
 73,
 
 
 John
 VK7JB
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Re: [Elecraft] Kit or factory assembled K3?

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm with you, the building without solder smoke didn't appeal too much to me so 
I ordered my KX3 factory built ;-)

Steve
W1SFR



On May 28, 2013, at 1:52 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:

 I agree with George. I'd jump at the chance to build another kit like
 the K2, but the K3 really didn't do all that much for me. It made me
 more familiar with the various parts, but I have plenty of projects
 around the house that I can do with a screwdriver that satisfy my need
 to do assembly.
 
 I made the same comment after I put my K3 together (with most of the
 bells and whistles, that for $5000 I should've had it put together and
 burned in at the factory and spent the extra time to learn the radio.
 
 That's just my own opinion. Last time I made it people told me I was a
 lazy appliance operator or some sort of non-kit-building freak. Oh,
 well.
 
 On Mon, 27 May 2013, george fritkin wrote:
 
 I have two K3s.  One was a kit the other factory built.  I really did not 
 get much out of building the kit.  It is simple, all mechanical, and some 
 stages require  caution.
 FYI I am a 74 year old retired EE with lots of bread boarding and kit 
 experience.  Also I have a KX3 which I bought factory build as well my KAT500
 George, W6GF
 
 -- 
 Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com
 BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte
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[Elecraft] KX3 instead of K2/100?

[Stephen Roberts]

Call me crazy, but after many QRP contacts, both DX and US, I'm thinking I 
could be happy with just a KX3 instead of my K2/100. Is that just nutty 
thinking? Maybe just get a HFpacker amp for the occasional QRO boost. The SDR 
aspects of the KX3 are really appealing to me.

Signed,

Can't have it all...

73
Steve
W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] Rework eliminators

[Stephen Roberts]

I agree. I built most of the add ons and never had any problems except for the 
occasional brain malfunction where I installed the wrong component HiHi.

By the book and you'll be fine.

73
Steve
W1SFR

Sent from my iPad

On May 21, 2013, at 1:54 AM, Stan AE7UT ae7...@gmail.com wrote:

 I'm just starting a K2 build and was thinking about using the rework
 eliminators.
 I spoke with a tech at Elecraft today who was not real positive about them.
 He recommended just building it by the book.
 I have just the basic K2 but plan on putting all the options in over the
 next year.
 
 
 Thanks for any input you may have.
 73
 Stan AE7UT
 
 
 
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Rework-eliminators-tp7573965.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hats at Dayton?

[Stephen Roberts]

I can't believe u guys are bugging Wayne for hats. Do u have any clue what is 
involved in preparing and managing a trade show? Give it a rest and wait until 
he gets back to the office.

Note to Wayne:
Extending your brand through promotional items makes good sense financially and 
from a marketing point of view. You should consider having a page on your site 
for hats, shirts, mugs etc.

GL at the show

Steve
W1SFR

Sent from my iPad

On May 18, 2013, at 3:17 AM, Fred Smith m...@mo-net.com wrote:

 Wayne could I pre-order 3 left over hats from Dayton when you get back? If
 so I would even prepay for them.NOW
 
 
 73,
 Fred/N0AZZ
 K3 Ser #'s 6730/5299--KX3 # 2573--K2/100--KAT100
 P3/SVGA--KPA500--KAT500--W2
 
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Barry
 Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 1:43 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hats at Dayton?
 
 I thought you would be GIVING them away in Dayton, not SELLING them  :.(
 Barry W2UP
 
 
 
 --
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-Hats-at-Dayton-tp7573660p75737
 33.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2013.0.2904 / Virus Database: 3162/6330 - Release Date: 05/16/13
 
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[Elecraft] Looking for 8pin mic connector for my K2 data cable

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone have one I could buy? I know I can get one at HRO but they want as much 
for shipping as the cost of 2 connectors. I checked my local RS and no luck 
there.

73
Steve
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hats at Dayton?

[Stephen Roberts]

Yeah boysme too!!


On May 14, 2013, at 6:53 PM, Harlan wrote:

 Maybe the bosses can make both hats and shirts available for a nominal fee 
 on the website.. 8)
 
 Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
 
 Rick Robinson rickw...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I'd like one also and some t shirts. Looked around but found nothing of
 interest. Please post info if you get a private reply. Thanks.
 
 On Tuesday, May 14, 2013, Scott Manthe wrote:
 
 I'd love an Elecraft hat, but missed out on them last year. I'm wondering
 if Wayne and Eric will have them this year?
 
 73,
 Scott, N9AA
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[Elecraft] 8 pin mic conn for K2 digital connector needed

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone have an extra they can sell me?




73
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT









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Re: [Elecraft] 4-pound Field Day, anyone?

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm with you Mark. A123's are the bees knees. I also use them for RC planes and 
they can put out 30A no sweat and you can charge them much faster than Lipo's. 

Steve

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 26, 2013, at 1:54 PM, Mark Goldberg marklgoldb...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am very big on LiFePO4 battery packs, 4 Genuine A123 cell 2.3 AH
 ones to be exact. They start out about 14V and provide about 2 AH till
 they get down to 12V when I stop and switch to another one. This
 allows full power on the KX3 as the voltage drop is very low even when
 transmitting at 12 W. I got packs with a balancing connector and
 charge with a balancing charger.
 
 You also need to consider the weight of a decent feedline, balun and /
 or counterpoise that drastically effect transmit efficiency. I created
 a go kit with all that and a headset and an extendable pole for an
 inverted V support and a hard case for my KX3 that came to about 7 lb.
 I set that up on a beach in Maui last week with some success, but had
 good success working a contest from my back yard when the other end
 were contest stations with good antennas.
 
 This is my kit
 
 20M
 ItemOz
 Radio With Eneloops   34.4
 Hard Case 10.5
 Battery with Power Cable12.4
 Headset  6.8
 Balun6
 Pole 20 Ft usable   15.7
 Antenna wire on looms  2.9
 Extra Antenna Wire for 20M   1.3
 Feed (300 ohm ladr) on loom   12.4
 Base measuring rope on loom5
 
 
 Total Oz 107.4
 Total Lb 6.71
 
 
 I added a 2 lb netbook to all this for logging. I hate dupe sheets.
 
 Mark
 
 On Apr 26, 2013 9:40 AM, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
 
 Hi all,
 
 This year I'm going to break with tradition and *not* drag tons of gear to 
 my field-day site. I'm going minimal….4 pounds max of radio gear. This will 
 allow me to put more emphasis on food, drink, and enjoying time with my son 
 (now almost 9). If anyone else is up for FD4#, let me know. I'd like to 
 compare notes on equipment, especially antennas, battery packs, and logging.
 
 4 pounds (or so) is not an arbitrary number. This allows for:
 
 - a KX3 with internal ATU and attached paddle
 - mic and headphones
 - external Li battery, plus 8 internal AA batteries in the rig as a backup
 - two 50' (roughly) lengths of antenna wire, adapters, and a couple of 1-oz 
 weights to get one wire into a tree
 - paper log and dupe sheets (maybe…more on this below)
 - soft carrying case for all of the above (in my case, a Think Tank Strobe 
 Stuff bag)
 
 I still expect to be reasonably competitive in the 1B-battery category even 
 with this lightweight station. I hope to operate on 80-6 meters in CW, SSB, 
 and digital modes (RTTY using the CW paddle and the KX3's text decode 
 function).
 
 There are two items I'm still working on:
 
 1. External battery
 
 I need something that will fit into the bottom of the Strobe Stuff bag. It 
 should supply at least 11 V, and I'd prefer 4 to 5 AH, though I could get by 
 with 3 AH and switch to the internal AAs later if necessary. Has any 
 consensus formed about specific Li battery packs in this class? Ideal max 
 size would be 1x3x2.5 (HWD).
 
 2. Logging
 
 I actually like paper logging in the field. It's kind of a Zen thing, 
 checking dupe sheets manually (Griffin is old enough to help with this, 
 too). But are there any good FD apps for the iPhone? I need the iPhone 
 anyway so it doesn't count towards the station weight total. If there's an 
 app that's easy to use for this, I'd love to try it. Heck, I'd even pay for 
 it.
 
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
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[Elecraft] K1 KFL1-4 Band indent

[Stephen Roberts]

I have a 4 band board for a K1 that I want to sell, but not sure what bands are 
on it. How can I identify which board this is? I'm pretty sure it's 40, 30, 20, 
15

Steve
W1SFR
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[Elecraft] K1 KFL1-4 40,30,20,15 board for sale

[Stephen Roberts]

I have an excess KFL4 K1 board  so it's got to go.

$100

Steve
W1SFR

paypal to steve...@shoreham.net
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[Elecraft] Looking for a KX1

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone?

Steve
W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] Don Wilhelm A Special Thank You!

[Stephen Roberts]

Put me on the list of devotees. Thanks Don for your unfailing assistance. You 
are such a great example of the true spirit of amateur radio!

Steve
W1SFR




On Mar 30, 2013, at 2:13 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:

 I have, likewise, been looking for the same opportunity.  I would venture to 
 guess that there is no one, maybe not even the K2 designers, who know the K2 
 as well as Don does. When my KPA100 would not put out power anymore, Don 
 diagnosed it to the capacitor which needs replacing, and I was able to 
 restore the K2 to full power again with Don's help.  Don's comments are 
 always well thought through.  Thanks Don for all the insight not just on 
 Elecraft rigs but on General Ham subjects as well.
 
 Ariel NY4G
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Mar 30, 2013, at 1:22 PM, Dave Richards djdavericha...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I have been looking for an opportunity to sing Don's praises, so I can't let 
 this thread go without saying something.  I have never had the benefit of 
 any service work or personal advice from Don - unfortunately, my K2 kit went 
 together without any problems and has worked flawlessly ever since :-)
 
 Everytime the digest of this list arrives, I scan it for K2 items (K2 owner 
 only here). Whenever a K2 question interests me, the very next thing I look 
 for is Don's reply, as I know that it will be reasoned and accurate. Looking 
 for Don's answers in this list is, to me, the equivalent of looking 
 something up in a reference book. Don is such a great asset to us all.
 
 By the way Philip, I have heard of people using RE20's with their rigs, but 
 have never come across anyone who uses an RE27 with theirs which I assume 
 would be easier, due to the higher output of the RE27. I connected mine 
 directly to my K2 and it sounds fine. Predictably, it has a bit more at the 
 bottom end than the electret mic in the Heil Traveler headset I was using. I 
 don't think I would have purchased an RE27 specifically for ham use, but as 
 I already had it here, it seemed a shame not to press it into service. So 
 finally, I know another ham who uses an RE27 N/D!
 
 Dave
 AA7EE
 
 
 
 
 Every day I see Don helping other Elecraft hams. He is a blessing for many.
 Just received my KX3 and I asked him about connecting my EV RE27 mike to it
 instead of the hand mike.  Don set about constructing a small case with a 6
 FT cord that goes to the KX3 and on the other side is a male mike connector
 for the desk mike. It's beautiful and solved my need.  Charged me a very
 reasonable amount and I paid with a big smile. Thank you Don!
 
 Phil 
 
 Philip LaMarche
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Kenwood Mc-60 mic with K2

[Stephen Roberts]

There is no A anywhere indicated on the microphone or base. Preamp is off and 
switch is on low impedence. When I plug it in I get a continuous series if dits 
and no response from any of the controls on the unit.

Steve
W1SFR


Sent from my iPad

On Mar 14, 2013, at 9:44 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 
 With a preamp switch on the base, that is an MC-60A.
 
 What position is the slide switch *on the microphone*?  That is the
 switch that determines high vs. low impedance.  You  want it in the
 Low (500 Ohm) position for the K2 (and K3).   There are two switches
 - the one toward the rear is impedance, the one toward the front is
 ON/OFF (the microphone element is disconnected in the OFF position).
 
 If your microphone did not come with a manual, you may want to download
 a copy from:  http://homepage.ntlworld.com/wadei/MC-60A.pdf or
 http://www.n6wk.com/kenwood/MC-60A.pdf
 
 73,
 
   ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 3/14/2013 7:15 PM, Mike Flowers wrote:
 My MC-60 mic says on the bottom by the switch 'mic amp' in/out.   There
 isn't an 'A' on the Kenwood trim on the front - just MC-60.   Although it
 may be an MC-60A, there is no visible designation as such.
 
 - 73 de Mike, K6MKF, W6NAG, NCDXC, Conway Reef 2012, K3-P3 Addict, Maui
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 4:12 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kenwood Mc-60 mic with K2
 
 The MC-60 (not A) schematic that I see on the G4WPW website indicates that
 the switch changes from low impedance to high impedance.  For use with the
 K3 and other modern transceivers the switch should be in the low impedance
 position.
  From the schematic, I cannot understand an out label on the switch.
 If you have an MC-60A, then out would be reasonable referring to the
 preamp either in or out.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 3/14/2013 6:53 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:
 It's a MC-60 and the switch is Out.
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Kenwood Mc-60 mic with K2

[Stephen Roberts]

Well looking at the schematic, it is an A so I guess it's not suitable for 
the K2.

Steve

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 14, 2013, at 9:44 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:

 
 With a preamp switch on the base, that is an MC-60A.
 
 What position is the slide switch *on the microphone*?  That is the
 switch that determines high vs. low impedance.  You  want it in the
 Low (500 Ohm) position for the K2 (and K3).   There are two switches
 - the one toward the rear is impedance, the one toward the front is
 ON/OFF (the microphone element is disconnected in the OFF position).
 
 If your microphone did not come with a manual, you may want to download
 a copy from:  http://homepage.ntlworld.com/wadei/MC-60A.pdf or
 http://www.n6wk.com/kenwood/MC-60A.pdf
 
 73,
 
   ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 3/14/2013 7:15 PM, Mike Flowers wrote:
 My MC-60 mic says on the bottom by the switch 'mic amp' in/out.   There
 isn't an 'A' on the Kenwood trim on the front - just MC-60.   Although it
 may be an MC-60A, there is no visible designation as such.
 
 - 73 de Mike, K6MKF, W6NAG, NCDXC, Conway Reef 2012, K3-P3 Addict, Maui
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
 Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2013 4:12 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Kenwood Mc-60 mic with K2
 
 The MC-60 (not A) schematic that I see on the G4WPW website indicates that
 the switch changes from low impedance to high impedance.  For use with the
 K3 and other modern transceivers the switch should be in the low impedance
 position.
  From the schematic, I cannot understand an out label on the switch.
 If you have an MC-60A, then out would be reasonable referring to the
 preamp either in or out.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 3/14/2013 6:53 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:
 It's a MC-60 and the switch is Out.
 
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[Elecraft] Dual receive using the K2. What's the best way to make that happen?

[Stephen Roberts]

I would really like to have dual receive capability while I'm using my K2 split 
for DX. What do you think is the most practical way to approach that without 
buying another radio and installing another antenna? 

I have an old Kenwood TS-430 available that I was thinking of using for an 
additional receive radio. The guys from DX engineering say that I could use a 
doohickie that will block transmit signal from the K2 to keep rf out of the 
TS-430.  Looks like it would cost about $225.

Is that the way to go?

73
Steve
W1SFR
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[Elecraft] Kenwood Mc-60 mic with K2

[Stephen Roberts]

I was recently given an MC-60 mic and I read that the MC-60 was perfectly 
compatible with the K2, but I plugged it in and it doesn't work, so what should 
I check for?

73
Steve
W1SFR



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Re: [Elecraft] Kenwood Mc-60 mic with K2

[Stephen Roberts]

It's a MC-60 and the switch is Out.


On Mar 14, 2013, at 4:36 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

 
 Was it an MC-60 or an MC-60A?  The MC-60 is a straight dynamic
 mic while the MC-60A included a preamplifier circuit in the base.
 
 1) make sure your K2 is not set up with bias (no 5.6K resistor
   on the P1).
 2) make sure the preamplifier is *bypassed* (switch OUT) in the
   base of the MC-60A.
 
 Finally, make sure the cable is wired for Kenwood and has not been
 rewired for some other transceiver.  The MC-60/60A was a good mic
 and has been used with a lot of other transceivers by replacing
 the cable from the base to the rig with one wired appropriately.
 
 73,
 
   ... Joe, W4TV
 
 
 On 3/14/2013 3:35 PM, Stephen Roberts wrote:
 I was recently given an MC-60 mic and I read that the MC-60 was perfectly 
 compatible with the K2, but I plugged it in and it doesn't work, so what 
 should I check for?
 
 73
 Steve
 W1SFR
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question/new owner

[Stephen Roberts]

I agree, the KAT2 is the bomb!

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 10, 2013, at 10:04 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Don,
 
 Welcome to the Elecraft list.  You must be posting properly, your post made 
 it to the list.
 
 When you hold the TUNE button, there is only a brief 'beep' not a tone.
 
 During a TUNE, the basic K2 (no KAT2) displays the power output as measured 
 with a simple diode RF detector.  That power level will only be correct if 
 the K2 is operating into a load impedance of 50 ohms pure resistive.  The 
 variation as you move across the band is due to variation in the actual 
 impedance of your antenna as seen at the shack end of your transmission line.
 
 But OTOH, the K2 will attempt to control power at whatever level is set on 
 the Power 'requested' knob, so if you are set to 10 watts, the K2 will try to 
 adjust the drive until the RF voltage from the RF detector is equal to that 
 power level driven into a 50 ohm pure resistive load.  SWR into your feedline 
 will affect the actual power developed by the K2.  An 80 meter antenna will 
 have a significant change in SWR over the band.  You may have to retune the 
 Z100 frequently when moving across the band to allow the K2 to properly 
 control the power.
 
 For tuning your Z100, holding the TUNE button will transmit at whatever power 
 level is set on the power knob, so the maximum power that your Z100 tuner 
 should have during a tuning cycle sets the limit.  Set that power level with 
 the Power knob.  After tuning, set the power to your desired operating power. 
  During the time the Z100 is tuning, the power out indication may vary all 
 over the board as the SWR is constantly changing while the tuner seeks a low 
 SWR.
 
 The addition of a KAT2, KPA100 or KAT100 will provide better power control 
 with your K2 because those options contain wattmeters (as opposed to a simple 
 RF voltage detector) which remove the SWR dependency from the power control 
 operation.
 
 The bottom line of all this is that the K2 controls power differently than 
 your prior transceivers.  The K2 tries to measure the actual RF output and 
 computes what it 'thinks' is the power into a 50 ohm resistive load, then 
 adjusts the drive to bring the output up to what you have requested.  Most 
 other transceivers simply adjust the drive to the PA and let it go at that.
 
 With the antenna that you have, you should consider the addition of the KAT2 
 (or if you are considering a future addition of the KPA100, use the KAT100),  
 The built-in wattmeter make tuning antennas much easier.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
 On 3/10/2013 8:20 AM, bukar wrote:
 I hope that I am posting this properly, if not please correct me. :-)
 
 I am the new owner of K2/10 #5001. I am more used to tuning up the hybrid 
 Kenwoods so while I am looking forward to moving to this more modern radio I 
 have some questions.
 
 I think that I must have toggled something off as I no longer can get a tone 
 when I push the tune switch on and off. It was working but I was in the 
 menus and fear I have done something to cause this.  I can't find the page 
 in the manual to correct this. Any suggestions?
 
 Also, when I tune the radio with my LDG z100 tuner  should I dial back the 
 power on the rig to 3-2 watts before tuning, get a match and then go back to 
 10 watts?
 
 I don't understand the read out I get on the display.  The Po number that is 
 displayed after the tune up, is that the recommended max power to use at 
 that particular match? I am trying to keep my power out to 10 watts but some 
 matches even a few kelos apart will display a Po reading from 15 to 5 as I 
 tune across the band.
 
 I am using the rig SSB into a 80 meter dilpole at 40 feet.
 73
 Don Bukar
 KJ4RQV
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Re: [Elecraft] TX5K - Managing with inexpensive hardware

[Stephen Roberts]

Good point Rick. I worked them on 20m at about 1400 UTC with my K2 at 80w into 
an OCF Dipole. He asked for my call about 8 times, but we finally connected.

73
Steve, W1SFR



On Mar 7, 2013, at 8:11 AM, Rick McClelland, AA5S wrote:

 Something that should be heartening for the less well-heeled amongst us (it
 certainly was to me), I was able to work TX5K on five bands with a Flex
 1500, a very inexpensive second-hand RM Italy HLA-150v amplifier and a
 single wire antenna.  The beams and K3/KPA500 combos are nice to have for
 these types of events but aren't absolutely necessary.  Of course, one
 might suggest that all this success would have been quite impossible had I
 not employed an Elecraft KAT500 tuner to make things right with my signal
 :-)
 
 Still chasing Jim, K9YC, for those little green boxes, though.  Apparently,
 he doesn't sleep much.
 
 -- 
 Rick McClelland, AA5S
 Fort Collins, CO
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[Elecraft] Laptops/Notebook suggestions

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm a mac guy and have a 27 iMac which has MacLoggerDeluxe on it. After using 
a couple of different programs over the last year, I'm thinking that it might 
be more useful to have a notebook or laptop (small) that will fit into my small 
space with my radio (a K2). Seems like logging software on the mac side is 
limited in terms of functionality.

I'm thinking I want to run N1MM logger, but am up to suggestions. I do run the 
occasional contest or two, but I'm not what you would call a contester per se.

73
Steve
W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] I finished my K1... Now what?

[Stephen Roberts]

Crazy like the rest of us poor souls!


On Feb 1, 2013, at 8:20 AM, Paul Roche wrote:

 I was having so much fun building it that I kept on chugging along. Now it
 is finished and works great. My first two QSOs were with EW7LO and CR23V on
 40 meters.
 
 But now I am kind of sad, I think BUILDING it was more fun than USING it!
 Yeah, I made it myself, but it is just a radio.it's a great little radio,
 but it is just a radio. And my TS-590S is also just a radio. They both work
 well.
 
 I am gonna think about it for a while, but I might just SELL the completed
 K1 and buy another kit. Am I carzy?
 
 Paul K3STX
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2/10 upgrade question

[Stephen Roberts]

I would agree with Don's most recent statement. My K2 is my shack rig and the 
KPA100 is built in and the rig sits on top of the KAT100. A fantastic 
combination to be sure. When I first built the KPA100 I ran the K2 with an 
outboard LDG auto tuner and there's simply no comparison. Sounds like you have 
your portable needs covered with the K1 (my choice for QRP) and KX3, so if 
you're like me and value space on your desktop, put the amp inside the K2.

Steve,
W1SFR



On Jan 15, 2013, at 10:16 PM, sidney sudberg wrote:

 I have recently bought a previously owned K2/10  am thinking of upgrading
 it to the 100 watt version.  My question is:
 
 
 
 Is there any reason or advantage to upgrade with the amplifier  radio in
 one unit or in the EC2 with the KAT100-2?  I suppose it is a matter of how
 it will be used but I guess I am looking for the experience of how others
 use either or both configurations  why.
 
 
 
 Being somewhat of a ‘Rookie’ ham, I frequently make hasty decisions based
 on my lack of experience, so I am seeking the advice from the collective
 experience of this distinguished group.  J I am not solely qrp/cw but my
 goal is to be operating mostly qrp/cw but I will also be getting a KX3
 within the year  I also currently own a K1.
 
 
 
 I thought the K2 would be my home station for now  would like to have the
 power available if I wanted or needed it.
 
 
 
 Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
 
 
 73,
 
 * *
 
 * *
 
 *Sidney Sudberg*
 
 (K6DMT)**
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Touch Keyer

[Stephen Roberts]

I to have had similar issues with the PF2 touch keyer. For whatever reason, it 
is unusable in my shack as it is currently set up. It works just perfect for a 
while, then goes haywire. Others swear by it and it does have a very 
interesting action. You almost get the sensation that the finger pieces are 
moving when you touch them. A very interesting paddle option.

Steve
W1SFR


On Jan 5, 2013, at 11:14 PM, David Dunn wrote:

 There is little doubt that this key, particularly in Kit form is value for
 money indeed.
 BUT  I have built one which works beutifully in my VK shack, where the
 antennas are  in the clear and Coax fed
 
 In my small QTH at G3SCD where the antennas are also coax fed but very low
 and close to the shack, I cannot overcome (yet) the problems of RF getting
 back to the keyer and making it quite useless.  Toroids, ferrites chokes
 etc have been tried  with little change
 It is intersting to note that there I have what I call a decent earth and
 in VK virtually no earth.
 Also in UK 100 watt is my max with the K3  alone.
 73  David
 VK3DBD/G3SCD
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[Elecraft] Vibroplex vari-speed attachment wanted

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone?

Off list please

steve...@shoreham.net

73
Steve, W1SFR


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Re: [Elecraft] missed market

[Stephen Roberts]

A well thought out ridiculous post. Sorry. 

You want 11m, get a radio for that purpose. 

Maybe Elecraft could put a microwave oven in the KX3 as well.

73
Steve
W1SFR



On Dec 14, 2012, at 7:50 AM, Gary Gregory wrote:

 Nope, not allowed in VK either!
 
 On 11M band you need to learn a foreign language and forget asking for
 help, mostly you just get QRM'd and so it goes on.
 
 I think Eric will close this thread soon..:-)
 
 73's
 Gary
 
 On 14 December 2012 23:29, amsct...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Wow...just...wow...
 
 
 http://www.ecfr.gov/cgi-bin/text-idx?c=ecfrSID=111c69175f95c15223d009847bac0a18rgn=div6view=textnode=47:5.0.1.1.5.4idno=47#47:5.0.1.1.5.4.144.9
 
 FCC Title 47 Part 95 Subpart D explains why Elecraft (or anyone else)
 couldn't do this if they wanted to.
 
 I really, really thought that every licensed amateur radio operator would
 know this .
 
 
 Mike Alexander - N8MSA
 
 amsct...@comcast.net
 
 - Original Message -
 From: rwm rwmr rwmr_10...@yahoo.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Friday, December 14, 2012 6:18:26 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] missed market
 
 You guys missed a Big Part of the Market..
 You have a Great radio in the Portable K3X..
 
 With Recent Hurricane Sandy..
 Correct me if i am Wrong..
 
 Ham Radios are supposed to offer one ability to carry on Emergency
 contacts..
 Both for owner of radio ( for themselves and their family)
 As well as working with various local/regional emergency services..
 
 So that within a Crisis happening..
 Communications can be kept going where all other forms fail
 (like how home and cell phones and power outages...that went on for at
 least a week and up to still lack of power and phone service in some spots
 of NY and NJ as direct result of Hurricane Sandy )
 
 Yet even though your K3X offers no more then 10 watts output
 (with external battery pack...5 watts in using internal batteries)
 
 Yet even though i asked..
 You refused to do a firmware upgrade so not only is the K3X be usable on
 HF ham bands..But also on 11 meter/cb frequencies ..
 
 I could understand if it was a 100 watt or such radio.
 Fact is though it is clearly Not..
 
 The K3X is a Perfect radio for emergency use..
 Yet you CLEARLY leave out and refuse to allow one to use it on some of the
 most used local frequency's that would enable one to remain in contact with
 local people ( for themselves as well as surrounding community)
 
 This is Indeed a Very Big Over Sight.
 This is Also a Very Poor attitude..
 
 It seems you people are so Hard Core with offering High Quality Radios
 with Excellent Abilities..
 Then when you Design a merging of SDR radio with a regular radio and Not
 requiring a PC hook up..
 Offering a Huge advantage that other companies can only Hope to so offer (
 but can not )
 However in one of the Most Important aspects..You Also Drop the Ball..
 
 Will you Re consider ?
 Or do i need to start a Petition on a National scale
 (even bringing it to the white house if need be)
 In order to get this done with a simple 5 watt portable radio ?
 
 By the way
 
 Yes i am a ham radio operator.
 
 Owning a 706 MKIIG..IC-7000 .. AR-3500 .. RCI 2970 .. IC-R3 .. DR235 ..
 ID800 .. ID-1 .. T90a .. ID-91AD .. THF-6a
 various tuners..various power supplies ..
 
 until recently with hurricane Sandy..
 create RC5 antenna rotor .. 2 meter,70 cm and 1.25 meter beams ..
 tribander 2 meter/70 cm/23cm vertical and 5/8 wave ground plane 11 meter
 antenna..
 
 Thankfully i had many batteries for my HT's and plenty of antennas for
 them..
 For as it turned out it was my ONLY means of communication to the outside
 world for 9 or 10 days
 (pay phones..home phones..cell phones were all useless..power was out ..
 all for over a week)
 
 I clearly would have befitted with battery operated able HF
 ( yes 11 meters as well )
 Even though via UHF i got out as far as 70 miles with just my HT and HT
 antennas
 ( i had to go to to top of walkway on the bayonne bridge to get out beyond
 10 miles during the first week to 2 weeks )
 I can easily get a Buddy Pole portable HF antenna to use with the K3X.
 
 So as i Now am still repairing my roof
 ( it still leaks like a lot any time it rains now )
 I am Now also looking to re create my antenna farm
 ( i likely can salvage my 70 cm beam..all the others are trash..also lost
 a good deal of LDF5-50a and LDF7-50a coax feedline )
 So while re doing my antenna farm for base operations..
 I am also looking to further update my portable/backpack gear.
 (seems i also have to bite the bullet and get a car again.. thus getting
 needed antennas for whatever car i get as well.. i have kept away from
 driving for 20 years..but hurricane sandy showed if i needed to
 bail/evacuate on my own..without driving on my own.. well it turned out it
 was not possible)
 
 Bob Muller
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[Elecraft] Vibroplex

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm looking for a vary-speed attachment for my newly acquired 1943 Vibroplex 
Original plus a couple of extra weights to experiment with. 

Anyone?

Off list please.

73
Steve
W1SFR
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[Elecraft] Carry case for the K1

[Stephen Roberts]

I think I recently saw a post about an inexpensive travel case for the K1, but 
I can't find it. Can someone help me out here? I'm looking for a less expensive 
case than the Pelican 1400/1520.

Best 73
Steve
W1SFR


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[Elecraft] K2 CW filters

[Stephen Roberts]

Is it possible to get a narrower filter than 400?




---
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT









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[Elecraft] REC stopped working on my K2

[Stephen Roberts]

Weird, the REC function stopped working on my K2. Everything else works as 
normal. Suggestions?

Steve




---
Steve Roberts-W1SFR
Sudbury, VT









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Re: [Elecraft] Power pole connection comes loose

[Stephen Roberts]

A  small drop of cyano (crazy) glue is my choice for keeping them together. Of 
course once you do that, they will never be taken apart or move again. I make 
up sets ahead of time.

Steve, W1SFR




On Dec 4, 2012, at 12:31 PM, Terry Schieler wrote:

 I don't use the metal PP roll pins for the same reason.  I do, however, use 
 plastic cocktail toothpicks with satisfactory results.  Wooden toothpicks 
 work as well, as long as it's a snug fit.
 
 Terry, W0FM
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Bob K6UJ [mailto:k...@pacbell.net] 
 Sent: Monday, December 03, 2012 9:01 PM
 To: Elecraft Reflector
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power pole connection comes loose
 
 After a number of problems of the PowerPole connectors using the cheaper 
 crimper tool I bought the good crimping tool for the connectors.  No more 
 problems.
 Yes they have to remain straight.  They are fairly easy to bend so be 
 careful.  I lay a straight edge along the backside of the contactor to check 
 for straight.  And the second big thing is you need to hear the click
 as the pins snap in place.  Occasionally I dont hear the cick and insert a 
 small narrow blade screwdriver alongside the wire and push down until I hear 
 the click.  As a final check, look at the end of the connector when finished. 
  You can see if the curved end of the metal contactor has snapped over the 
 contactor in the power pole.  These two things, making sure you dont bend the 
 contactor and checking for the click are the secret to good connections all 
 the time with the PowerPoles.
 
 Another discussion is about whether to push in the roll pin to lock the PP 
 connectors side by side.
 My preference is not to use the roll pins.  I have had the roll pins drop 
 out.  That is the last thing I want is for one of them to fall down inside a 
 radio.  Unfortunately they dont always stay in snugly like they should.
 Your call.
 
 
 73,
 Bob
 K6UJ
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] PT0S

[Stephen Roberts]

As a new ham, and very new to DX (just a couple of months) I was really turned 
off by stations like PT0S at first, but it seems to me that if you really want 
a particular station then you have to take whatever comes and be patient. I 
spent over an hour just listening on 80m and ultimately there was an opening 
and I took it. First call and a 599 QSL. 

It amazes me that people tune up on ANY freq where folks are operating. Very 
rude and inconsiderate.

Oh well...can't worry about some of the lids out there.

73
Steve
W1SFR




On Nov 21, 2012, at 6:44 AM, Fred Smith wrote:

 You are correct it is really bad I agree some of the worst I have came
 across, mainly because of the size of the operation/conditions/needed
 entity. None of these make a good mix but when you put them all together
 then add in poor ops/no operating skills and very wide splits makes for the
 conditions we are seeing.
 
 Not bragging but I have them 2 bands it's a new one for me and both calls on
 both bands 10/40m were answered on the 1st or 2nd call I was in early before
 the pileup hit. I'm in their log and LoTW so I'm finished let others in.
 
 The tuning up by people who can't work them is always around on most DX but
 the language, years ago I hung out in some pretty bad bars and those people
 sounded the same. It just goes to show You Can't Fix Stupid!
 
 Fred/N0AZZ
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Howard Hoyt
 Sent: Tuesday, November 20, 2012 5:28 PM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] PT0S
 
 Fred/N0AZZ  said:
 Some people do well using a dummy load.
 
 Yeah, I hear a bunch of dummy loads obscuring PT0S...I have tried since the
 first day and still have not gotten through the cacaphony.  Maybe I'm the
 dummy load...where's my amp?? (said the KX3 user with a low dipole; can you
 say NVIS?)  Despite my antenna and power limitation, I've worked 50+
 countries in a little over a month with this setup, and can't get through
 that pile-up.
 
 I cannot even believe the language some people use on the air!  And the
 tuning up on-freq?  The ten minute long string of dits?  The blasting RTTY
 insults over PT0S signal?  The ignoring PT0S's please for specific areas and
 replying with insults?  These folks are paying for, and braving what seems
 to be a worsening weather situation on a freakin rock in the middle of the
 Atlantic eating instant coffee raw to give some lucky hams a new contact,
 and some  is sitting in a comfy chair insulted they cannot get through?
 I'm pretty disappointed by a few people.  I do suspect that vast majority of
 people are doing their best to stay calm and cooperative, though.
 
 It only takes one bad apple to spoil the cider.
 
 Howie - WA4PSC
 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Decoding - Your Brain is best

[Stephen Roberts]

Well I've been at it for about 8 months now and have worked only CW (about 1100 
QSOs to date) since I got my ticket . I'm just beginning to be able to put down 
the pen and copy in my head. Sure I miss a couple of words here and there, but 
for the most part I'm getting much better. I think I'm at a transition point 
and finding that even though I don't have to write down copy I find it somewhat 
reassuring and often do it anyway so I don't miss anything. Of course if the 
WPM goes much faster than about 22 WPM, I can't write fast enough anyway so I 
have to really focus and let the old brain have at it. I think once I hit the 
one year mark, I should be in pretty good shape and expect to be able to send 
and copy at about 30 wpm...not that I have a need for speed, but it's just an 
observation on my progress during my first year as a ham. It's certainly more 
relaxing to just sit there and close my eyes and listen rather than frantically 
trying to write down everything!

73
Steve
W1SFR



On Nov 8, 2012, at 1:52 PM, Andrew Moore wrote:

 Hope anyone who's interested in getting into CW isn't put off by the
 thought of spending hundreds of hours to train or being bored by just
 another digital mode. Larry is 50% right here. I mean that in a positive
 way (i.e. not 50% wrong!)
 
 To say that CW is just another digital mode, or that it takes hundreds of
 hours to train, isn't necessarily correct.
 
 Some of the most exciting moments I had doing CW were when I was studying
 code before I got my ticket, (barely) copying 5 WPM in Mass. from a station
 in Florida which seemed like pulling magic out of the air. At that point I
 had only about 24 hours of CW training. When I got the ticket, my first QSO
 was on a straight key from Tenn. to Washington state (still have the QSL
 card, N7CEY!) was equally thrilling, largely because it was hands-on
 (Internet wasn't even mainstream yet).
 
 It's a very different *experience* than having a computer do it for you.
 
 I agree with Larry's recommendation to just jump in and immerse yourself in
 the mode, in whatever form. One way isn't better than the other. For
 upcoming CW enthusiasts, only by trying the different methods available to
 you - digital or analog makes no difference - will you find what you like
 and what you can do without. Find your niche and enjoy it; it's YOUR niche
 and there's a lot of fun out there when you find it. Decode-by-brain comes
 quick for some, especially when they enjoy it. And then, training is
 ongoing - so yes, it can certainly require hundreds of hours, but for some
 those hours seem like a thrill not a chore.
 
 --Andrew, NV1B
 maineware.net
 ..
 
 
 
 On Thu, Nov 8, 2012 at 1:15 PM, Larry Libsch llib...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 
 
 Your brain IS best at CW decoding - but only after you've spent
 many hundreds of hours training it. You can work CW DX NOW by getting a
 Keyer and learning one thing in CW - the sound of your callsign.  Let CW
 Skimmer decode for you. It's not as good as your brain, but this setup
 will have you working CW at any speed without dedicating hundreds of
 hours you might wish to spend otherwise. CW is just another digital
 mode. Decoders will improve. Get in the CW game now.
 
 K4KGG,Larry
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need Headphone recommendations for K3

[Stephen Roberts]

Got them on right now and love them.


On Oct 30, 2012, at 5:47 PM, Terry Posey wrote:

 Headphones are a highly personal radio accessory - after all they attach
 directly to your body. But, after decades of radio broadcasting and ham
 radio use my all time favorite headset is the Senneheiser HD 280 PRO 64-ohm.
 That is my recommendation, your mileage will vary.  73, Terry K4RX;
 
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[Elecraft] FS Signalink for K2

[Stephen Roberts]

I have a brand new Signalink with cables for K2 for sale. Digital modes not my 
cup of tea.

$95 shipped in original box with cables, manuals etc.

Reply off list to

steve...@shoreham.net




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[Elecraft] K1 for sale?

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone have a K1 for sale? I'm looking for one with 40 and 15M.

Thanks

73
Steve




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[Elecraft] K2/100 power supply

[Stephen Roberts]

I have a k2/100 and have a rechargeable 13.8 battery on the low power input and 
a 35A power supply for main power to the 100w amp. I assume it's ok to run 
power from the 35a power supply to both the low power input and the amp at the 
same time right? Would I need a fuse on the low power input?  I'm going on 
vacation and will be taking the K2 and have access to AC power so don't 
anticipate doing any QRP so I'm thinking I don't really need to have that 
rechargeable Belkin UPS in the shack and hooked up to the K2 except for 
possible power outages. 

Steve





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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] KAF2 displays strange numbers

[Stephen Roberts]

Maybe this will help from the manual...

Day/Night Selection: If you're operating outdoors, use the menu
to select L C D DA Y , which turns off the LCD backlight and puts
the bargraph into high-brightness mode. Indoors or at night, use
L C D NI T E , which turns the backlight on and reduces the
bargraph brightness.
Bargraph Modes: You have a choice of O F F , DO T , or BA R
for the LED bargraph. If you select DO T , just one bargraph
segment representing the current meter level will be illuminated.
If you select BA R , all LED segments to the left of the current
level will also be illuminated, resulting in a more visible display.
O F F mode turns off the bargraph completely during receive but
uses DOT mode on transmit (see Advanced Operating Features).
Display Modes: Tapping the D I S P L A Y button alternates
between frequency display mode and voltage/current display
mode. Other display modes may be available depending on
installed options.
In frequency display mode, the LCD will show the operating
frequency, mode indicator, and any annunciators that are enabled,
e.g. 2 4 9 4 5 . 0 4 c . This is the display you’ll use most often.
In voltage/current display mode, the LCD will show supply
voltage (E) in 0.1 V increments and supply current (I) in 0.02 A
increments, e.g. E 1 3 . 8 i 1 . 4 0 . Voltage/current display is useful for
monitoring battery condition and transmitter performance. It can
also be used in conjunction with a simple voltage probe to check
DC voltages inside the K2.
A two-position slide switch on the control board, S1, selects either
12 V monitoring or the voltage probe (P5). If the voltage/current
display shows 0 . 0 volts, it is likely that you have S1 in the probe
position.


Steve

On Sep 6, 2012, at 1:00 AM, Brian - N5BCN wrote:

 Hi All,
 
 I have a KAF2 installed and it seems to work fine, with time and date set to
 UTC.
 
 Every now and then, when I press DISPLAY to show the time, the KAF2 will
 briefly show a set of numbers unrelated to the current date and time.  These
 strange numbers will disappear and then the proper time or date is
 displayed.  This only happens occasionally.
 
 For example, tonight I pressed DISPLAY, and the KAF2 briefly showed
 03.19.00 then showed the proper UTC time which was 04.47.19.  The date was
 also correct (9-6-12).
 
 I don't see any mention of this in the KAF2 manual (such as showing a
 version number or something).
 
 My only guess is that every now and then the KAF2 is showing a previous time
 and needs a second or two to update to the current time.
 
 Can anyone shed light on this little mystery?
 
 Thx and 73
 N5BCN, Brian
 
 
 
 -
 K2 #6800 KPA100/KAT100-2, KSB2, KAT2, KIO2, K160RX, KNB2, KAF2, LP-PAN/K2 w/ 
 Pre-amp, SignaLink USB
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-KAF2-displays-strange-numbers-tp7562179.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] A123 news

[Stephen Roberts]

Here's the skinny on A123's

http://www.greencarreports.com/news/1078364_battery-startup-a123-rescue-plan-chinese-firm-to-own-80


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[Elecraft] DSP for K2

[Stephen Roberts]

I have a K2 and recently tested a WMR Clrdsp unit and was very disappointed 
with the results. I think the unit was defective and I returned it. But I 
wanted to ask the list what outboard DSP units you might use and whether you 
think they're worth it or not. I have a hard time forking over $250 for the K2 
internal DSP unit.

I have the KAF2 installed and it's very effective, but I'd really like to get 
rid of some of that QRN that's always present on 40m.

Thanks

Steve





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 CW text decoder

[Stephen Roberts]

Hey...I resemble that remark!

Ok...well I'm one of those poor recruits that happened to score well in the cw 
aptitude test although I had absolutely no prior knowledge of the code. After 6 
months at CT school in Pensecola, I was merrily copying away with...yes...wait 
for it...a typewriter. NO way I could even come close to copying in my head. As 
Guy said, copying 5 letter code groups was the primary gig and it was all just 
a mechanical reaction to a letter sound. After leaving the Navy, I never 
pursued cw or becoming a ham. It was not until recently (about 5 months ago) 
that I got my ticket and plunged back into re-learning CW and although I 
remembered most of the letters, it was not as easy as I imagined it would be, 
especially since I had no experience sending and had no idea what a QSO sounded 
like . Well, I'm up to about 25 WPM at this point and very gradually getting to 
recognize words. I think I'm still a long way from copying in my head 100%, but 
I'm hoping that after about a year, I should be in g
 ood shape. I've been averaging about 4 QSO's a day (I haven't tried the mike 
on my K2 yet) and wish I could do more, but I ain't retired YET and still have 
to chase the almighty dollar around.

So all of you I can copy in my head at 60 WPM...how long did it take you to 
learn how to do that?

73
Steve



On Jul 23, 2012, at 1:19 PM, N5GE wrote:

 Very well said Guy!
 
 When I took my training for MOS 051.1 (High speed CW operator), they didn't 
 tell
 us we would go back to the infantry.  They told us we would go to cook school!
 
 The only time I ever use SSB these days is on my NAVY/MARINE CORPS MARS nets.
 NAVMARCORMARS still allows CW on their nets and those of us who can, use it 
 when
 conditions are poor if we know the NCS is a CW user.
 
 Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
 ARRL Lifetime Member
 QCWA Lifetime Member
 
 On Mon, 23 Jul 2012 09:43:38 -0400, Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:
 
 In the later years, since the no-code decision in USA licensing
 particularly, I have noted an increase of contest QSO's where the other end
 obviously copies 25 WPM somehow and only sends 8-10 wpm, and that clearly
 on a hand key.
 
 The flurry of complaints, when 4.51 partially unglued the CW text decode on
 the K3, further confirms it.
 
 As someone who could copy 20 WPM at age 14, and can still copy 50-60 wpm in
 my head, it is hard to imagine listening to code and not simply
 understanding it, like someone talking to me.  I've asked some folks why
 the difficulty learning code, and they relate something that usually sounds
 like the 13 WPM barrier tale.
 
 As it turns out, the old way to learn code is all wrong as a universal
 method.  Code needs to be learned like a language, and at 20 wpm to start
 with.   But that's not how it's done the old way.   The old way has been
 around since WWII and the Army Signal Corps. Memorize the alphabet with
 visual dots and dashes beside it.  Then just keep at it until you don't
 need the card any more.  Do it with a typewriter from the get go.
 Eventually a sound in the ear is directly linked to a typewriter key,
 copied autonomically, and you can carry on an unrelated conversation at the
 same time.  Buggers don't know what they've copied until they read it on
 the page.  Really.
 
 OF COURSE that worked, FOR THEIR PURPOSES.  People CAN learn code that way.
 But quite MORE CANNOT.  What did army do?  They sent 100 draftees into a
 class and then kept the 30 best in the signal corp and sent the other 70
 back to the infantry.  That WOULD work for an army.  But it clearly is not
 a universal method, and using dash dot cards prevalently in hamdom all
 these years produces a 70% who gave up on code, and now use CW decoders in
 CW contests because CW contests are FUN!!! and CW covers distance way
 better than SSB.
 
 So what's this cr*p about learning code at 20 WPM?  NOBODY can translate 20
 wpm sound to dididahdahdidit and then to question mark by looking at the
 card, at 20 WPM.
 
 Well, you're exactly right, of course they can't, and that's the point.
 THAT METHOD is doomed to failure for 70% of those who try it.
 
 CW needs to be learned from 20 wpm code SOUNDS.   The *WORD* and at 40
 wpm has a distinctive sound that has nothing to do with letters.  The WORD
 and has the same exact sound at 20, 35, 50 and 75 wpm, if the sending and
 receiving hasn't mushed the sound and made it indistinct at  higher speeds.
 Not hearing it at 75 is a matter of INDISTINCTNESS or not concentrating,
 it's not copy speed.  If it's distinct the word and  sounds the same at
 any speed.
 
 One will not be able to copy German at 50 wpm, if you don't know the SOUND
 of German words in CW.
 
 It's like listening to an auctioneer talking really fast.  The issue is
 making your mind stay up with him and how clearly he ennunciates his fast
 words.
 
 New way.  Code learners hear the sounds of most common letters at 20 wpm
 right off the bat.  E  T  A N.  You memorize the 

Re: [Elecraft] The silence is deafening

[Stephen Roberts]

Guys, can I say that I'm sick of hearing about KX3 shipments cuz I am...really.



On Jul 11, 2012, at 6:30 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:

 Has anyone received a notice that his KX3 kit will ship soon?
 I haven't heard a word on either the Elecraft list or the KX3 group.
 Nor have I seen anyone in the six places between N4CW and myself on the 
 spreadsheet post a notification.
 
 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
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[Elecraft] KTA100 probs

[Stephen Roberts]

Just got a KTA100 from someone on the list and have some problems. Tuning seems 
to progress along nicely, but always indicates SWR off the charts. Any ideas 
what I'm doing wrong?

Steve



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[Elecraft] Looking for a KAT100

[Stephen Roberts]

Anyone have a built or kit they want to sell?

Steve



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[Elecraft] Probs with KPA100 and KIO2 interface

[Stephen Roberts]

I just purchased a KPA100 from someone on the list and got it installed and 
working fine, but I can't seem to get the KI02 going. I'm using a Mac and 
Aether software. I set everything correctly in the software and nothing. I 
tried Mac logger deluxe and the same result. Checked the KUSB cable that I got 
from Elecraft as well as the cable I built that came with the KI02 kit and they 
check out ok.  What should be next on my list of things to check?

73
Steve


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[Elecraft] Internal or External tuner for K2 that's the question...

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm getting my KPA100 today and now I need to save up for a tuner. I'm 
wondering if it would be better to get an external tuner that could be used for 
other rigs, or get the KAT100. What are the pros and cons of the KAT100?

Anybody have a KAT 100 for sale out there?

Steve



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[Elecraft] Question about autotuner in K2

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm waiting for a KAT100 amp to be delivered for my K2. For now I'm using a 40m 
end fed LNR antenna so bypassing the ATU at 100W should be no problem, but I 
plan to hang a new Buckmaster OCF 7 band antenna, and can't seem to locate the 
power limits of the internal K2 ATU. Do I have to get an external 100w tuner 
for the KAT100?


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[Elecraft] Internal or External amp for K2..what are my options

[Stephen Roberts]

Is there a thread that looks at options for external amps for the K2? If I use 
an external amp, do I also need an external tuner? I want to get an amp, and 
getting the internal amp seems like the most sensible way to go, but I'm also 
thinking that an external amp I could use for other radios in the future might 
be the better solution. Are there off the shelf 100w amps that might fit the 
bill? I see Ten Tec's new amp is $700+not going to happen at that price.

73,
Steve



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[Elecraft] Using Aether on a Mac to control K2

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm about to venture into this but don't know what to expect. How does the 
program interact with the K2 and what is the process/input during a QSO? Is it 
all worth it?

I have the kit and the USB cable from Elecraft, and I'm about to build the 
critter.

73
Steve



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[Elecraft] K2 KAF2 problems

[Stephen Roberts]

I just completed my KAF2 audio filter and installed it. All is well...BUT I'm 
not able to set the clock and the date. The display works and I get the default 
numbers for both date and time, but when I tap the band buttons nothing 
happens. Everything else functions correctly. 

Steve



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[Elecraft] K2 and the Kio2

[Stephen Roberts]

I'm going to be installing a KIO2 interface into my K2 shortly, but have a 
basic question. Is there a way to make the cable USB? I mean...who uses RS232 
or Serial interfaces anymore? I'm assuming I will need an adapter of some sort. 
Recommendations?

73
Steve


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[Elecraft] K2 and Aether logging software for mac

[Stephen Roberts]

I just got a K2 and want to hook it up to my logging software on my iMac. What 
do I need to do that?

Steve
W1SFR



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[Elecraft] K2-Using a paddle and straight key at the same time….how?

[Stephen Roberts]

I'd like to keep both keys plugged into the K2 at the same time. How should I 
go about that?

Steve
W1SFR



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[Elecraft] KAF2 or KDSP2 for K2?

[Stephen Roberts]

Well going from a rather ancient Ten Tec to a K2 has been a real treat for 
sure, and as most of us can't seem to be able to leave anything well enough 
alone, I was thinking about possible options I can add without breaking the 
bank. Can any of you folks tell me the real life difference between these two 
options and whether or not either one of them is worth the expense? I do almost 
no voice...all cw.

Thanks!

Steve
W1SFR


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[Elecraft] Power supply and fuse recommendations for K2

[Stephen Roberts]

Well, just got my pre built K2 and I'm looking for recommendations for external 
in line fuse as well as power supply. I recently fried my OHR rig and will not 
power up any of my rigs without the proper fuse again.

I currently have an inline 1A fuse with PP connectors and a 2.4A power supply. 
Will that do it?

Steve
W1SFR



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[Elecraft] K2 Instructional videos

[Stephen Roberts]

Hi folks,

I'm waiting for my K2 to arrive in a couple of days and was wondering if there 
are any instructional videos that cover all the functions of the K2.

Steve
W1SFR


---
Steve Roberts
(802) 779-7489








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