[Elecraft] K2 Toroids Latest?

2005-05-16 Thread Deni F5VJC
 
Hi Vic and all.
 
I have kept my K2 (1188) up to date with all the A/B mods, however at times
I see references such as the one below about T7  where a  toroid may have
been changed from the original windings to a revised spec. Are these
documented anywhere, which toroids are now different and why?
 
Thanks,
 
73, Deni
 
F5VJC / GM3SKN
 
K21188
 
=
It looks fine, although I would move the two wider filters a bit to the
right.
There looks like about 6-8 db difference in attenuation between the widest
and
narrowest filters, which is probably on the high side of normal (although
this
tends to vary).  I see about 4 db on mine, which is #709 but has had the
crystals replaced and T7 rewound to current spec.
 
I would be interested in knowing how much difference in attenuation others
are
seeing.  I know that K1JD has an ANCIENT K2 (field test vintage) which has
zero
db difference!
 
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
 


 
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[Elecraft] Antenna problem / phenomenon

2005-05-16 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi all,

I have a new set of mobile antennas, pro am series with magnet mount. Most
works just fine but I have one thing I don't understand. I have a K1 and a
K2 and while the K2 (without tuner enabled) shows an SWR of 2:1 on the 30m
antenna the K1 immediately reduces power to 0.1w and shows SWR 9.9. And
what's most stunning, the KAT1 can't even reduce this 9.9...

Any idea why and most important: what can I do?

Thanks!


Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
http://www.gs-personal.de


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna problem / phenomenon

2005-05-16 Thread Paul Gates
You know, Gerhard I have had the same problem at times.
Paul Gates
Elecraft K1 #231
XG1
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


- Original Message - 
From: Gerhard Schwanz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 5:07 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna problem / phenomenon


 Hi all,

 I have a new set of mobile antennas, pro am series with magnet mount. Most
 works just fine but I have one thing I don't understand. I have a K1 and a
 K2 and while the K2 (without tuner enabled) shows an SWR of 2:1 on the 30m
 antenna the K1 immediately reduces power to 0.1w and shows SWR 9.9. And
 what's most stunning, the KAT1 can't even reduce this 9.9...

 Any idea why and most important: what can I do?

 Thanks!


 Gerhard Schwanz
 DH3FAW
 http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] Re: Morse cell phones

2005-05-16 Thread Martin
Hello elecrafters,

my wifeŽs cell phone calls  cq cq cq when a call comes in,
mine calls  qrz?

I composed the ringtones myself on the computer and transferred them
to the phones using a programming-cable .

Too bad you cannot have different a ringtone for every entry in
the phones phonebook, because i have a lot of hamcalls stored.
That would be fun!

Thanks for providing the link to the jay leno video.

-- 
Best regards,
 Martin
K2 #2706  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[Elecraft] K2 #4896 on the air!

2005-05-16 Thread LA2MOA
Gang,

My K2 s/n 4896 is alive and kicking! The assembly went flawless and
the alignment was a piece of cake (yes, indeed), MUCH easier than
aligning the K1! I finished the rig as a evening-project while I´m
at work in Sweden (and QRV as SM/LA2MOA), and the first CW QSO was
with LA9M/P on EU056 on 30 meters. 

The transmitter gives 15 watts as stated in the specs and the
receiver is AWESOME! It´s just s quiet! No white noise what so
ever, and the filters are knife sharp!

I have no options ordered for this one yet, but will use it for a
while and then decide what options I need. Right now, the plain K2 is
running in cirkles (or more like figure eight´s) around anything I
have been using before, including a number of Kenwoods, Icom´s and
Yaesu´s. Even my Argonaut II is outperformed by this beauty! This is
really exciting!

What a wonderful rig, thank´s Elecraft!

Hans / LA2MOA (currently QRV as SM/LA2MOA)
KX1 #975
K1 #1992
K2 #4896 

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FW: [Elecraft] 7182 buzz appears after K69XV installed

2005-05-16 Thread Dan Barker
Pictures, please?

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

Just curious, but I don't have the buzz (I guess - I'm never more than
125KHz above the lower band edge.)

snip
An SMT inductor was chosen with a value of 18uh and SRF of 27Mhz. Its foot
print is a 1210 size
(120mils x 100 mils) and fit perfectly between the VCC pin of the PLL chip
and the VCC buss.
/snip

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[Elecraft] Re: Rosin

2005-05-16 Thread Allen C. Ward
The easiest to get and a very excellent solvent for rosin on PCB is 
Everclear (ethanol 95%) which is available at any liquor store.  A pint will 
last a long time (unless you quench your thirst with it).  It has the 
advantage of dissolving old rosin as well as that from newly soldered 
joints.  While most parts are not damaged by it, it should be used by 
applying only to the solder joints with an acid brush with shorten (1/4-3/8 
length) scrubbing, rinsing and wiping with a paper towel.  Done correctly 
you get shiny joints with NO rosin.
Most of the time, except for looks, rosin from good solders does no harm. 
You can do more harm than good if your cleaning isn't done properly.
Allen KA5N 


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna problem / phenomenon

2005-05-16 Thread G3VVT
The answer to the problem is an old one in that it is difficult to get an  HF 
antenna to work with a mag mount due to the low capacitance between the  
magnetic base and the vehicle body.
 
VHF/UHF antenna mounted on a mag mount is OK as the effective low  
capacitance does not present a problem. I even tried a 3 magnet type of mount 
on  HF 
with the same dismal results. Am told that if you can install a very  short 
wide 
grounding strap from the mag mount to the vehicle body this can be  the answer 
to the problem, but admit that I was never entirely successful with  this 
either.
 
There seems nothing better than getting a good metallic contact with  the 
vehicle body to get an HF mobile whip to tune and correctly which is what I  
had 
to do in the end with a bolted on mount.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Toroids Latest?

2005-05-16 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Deni,

T7 is the only transformer that will make any difference.  If it is wound
with a 13:3 turns ratio it can be rewound with a 20:5 ratio for a better
impedance match to the IF filter.

The number of turns on bifilar wound T3 has been reduced in later K2s, but I
have not noticed any difference (including the RF levels on my 'scope) after
changing it on several K2s.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I have kept my K2 (1188) up to date with all the A/B mods,
 however at times
 I see references such as the one below about T7  where a  toroid may have
 been changed from the original windings to a revised spec. Are these
 documented anywhere, which toroids are now different and why?


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[Elecraft] Quote

2005-05-16 Thread Kevin Rock

He that uses many words for explaining any subject, doth, like the
cuttlefish, hide himself for the most part in his own ink.
-John Ray, naturalist (1627-1705)


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna problem / phenomenon

2005-05-16 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
Have you tuned the length of the 30m antenna?  Out of the box it might 
be wrong.
You also need a ground strap, if you don't want a permanent 
installation.  I hopr your car is metal, not fiberglass.  You may need 
some straps to hook other parts of the car together, such as roof to 
body, or hood to body, to get more metal in the ground plane.  If you 
plan to operate while the car is running and use car 12v, you wuill have 
much more to do, but if you operate when the car is off, this is 
enough.


I operate 40, 30, 20, 17, and 15 with similar antennas (Hamstick or Pro 
Am) and a tri-mag mount and a short piece of #14 zip cord (both) to a 
screw on the car.  For feeding the antenna, I use coax to a balun and 
then twinlead through the sunroof.  I use the WB6ZQZ step-down balun and 
usually use it on the 25 ohm setting, depending on what makes the tuner 
happiest.

73,
WA5ZNU / Leigh.
On Mon, 16 May 2005 2:05 am, Gerhard Schwanz wrote:

Hi all,

I have a new set of mobile antennas, pro am series with magnet mount. 
Most
works just fine but I have one thing I don't understand. I have a K1 
and a
K2 and while the K2 (without tuner enabled) shows an SWR of 2:1 on the 
30m

antenna the K1 immediately reduces power to 0.1w and shows SWR 9.9. And
what's most stunning, the KAT1 can't even reduce this 9.9...

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Filter attenuation?

2005-05-16 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Deni F5VJC wrote:


I have kept my K2 (1188) up to date with all the A/B mods, however at times
I see references such the one below about T7  where a  toroid may have been
changed from the original windings to a revised spec. Are these documented
anywhere, which toroids are now different and why?


I haven't seen anything specifically on toroids, other than what's in the A-to-B 
modification documents http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2a2binstr.pdf and 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/k2%20rev%20B%20comp%20kit%20rev-1.pdf, which 
you have probably seen.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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[Elecraft] Organic Solder Fluxes

2005-05-16 Thread J F
I think electronics people and bullet casters will
have to have a special permit or license to possess
lead before long!  (If the environmental whackos have 
their way!  The anti-gun folks will jump on this
bandwagon too, be assured!)

We have tons of lead we'd love to dump in your back
yard in Oak Ridge, (along with mercury and other
highly toxic metals.) A lot of of fishermen would
enjoy sending you all the lead shotgun shot that sits
at the bottom of our lakes making the fish inedible
from them.

Kester provides data sheets free of charge (including
MSDS documents) on their website. These explain what
(if anything) is necessary to clean up after
soldering. If in doubt, check your materials out
before using them.  Read and follow the instructions,
if in doubt, don't use the product. Most of the QRP
construction sites and Elecraft recommend solders that
are safe to use, based on experience, use the
expertise easily available.

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] Santa Cruz Sentinel article on Elecraft

2005-05-16 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

Hi John,

That was more of a general statement and not meant to be specific :-) . It did 
not refer to any specific developments.  No new radios in the near term for sure.


73, Eric  WA6HHQ
Elecraft
---
John [K7SVV] wrote:

The paragraph that caught my eye said:

The company hopes to continue its growth and perhaps expand its
headquarters in the near future, and it has a lot of stuff in
development, according to Swartz, who said new radios and accessories
are in the pipeline. 

I am very curious what the new stuff is so , Eric, if you will
whisper it in my ear, I promise not to tell anyone.
John   [K7SVV]

On 5/15/05, Ward Willats [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Well, look what was in the morning paper...
http://www.santacruzsentinel.com/archive/2005/May/15/biz/stories/01biz.htm

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Question

2005-05-16 Thread Mike Markowski
Mike,

I don't have an answer for you, but wanted to say I *think* I am
experiencing the same thing.  I have an old Bird model 43 watt meter
hooked up - not at all the thing to be testing phone output with - and
see one unexpected thing.  SSB sounds fine on my test rcvr on 40m and
80m, 100 W into dummy load, where I see peaks of maybe 20 to 25 W when
speaking into the mic.  But on other bands I see about 2 W!  However,
whistling into the mic gives me about 80 W or so on all bands, and a
quick tune at 100 W gives about 100 W.  At least the amp is ok, so maybe
I'm seeing the greater emphasis on lower frequencies in LSB popping the
meter up a bit more than USB?  That's quite a difference though.  I hope
to get a scope hooked up to better test it.  I just finished my 100 W
amp over the weekend and am trying to make sure all is well.  I did have
a short 20m psk31 qso and was putting out 30 W, same as the power
setting.  But I still wonder at that 20W/2W difference...  The bands
were awful this weekend and prevented better testing.  In any case, I'll
be interested to see what you learn.  I'm using the MD2 mic, by the way.

Mike  AB3AP
K2 4834

Mike Stricker wrote on 05/13/05 21:00 ET:
 Hi,
 
 I was trying to get my K2 on the air and am running into a bit of
 difficulty.
 
 The K2 transmits fine on CW.  The K2 receives fine on SSB (and CW),
 both USB and LSB and the filters have been set up per the kit
 instructions.  When I depress the MH2 transmit button and speak into
 it, the signal sounds fine on my test receiver.  I noticed, however,
 that there is virtually no RF output.  I have tried a couple of
 different audio settings in SSBA and SSBC to no avail.
 
 Any ideas will be appreciated.
 
 Thanks
 
 Mike, WA1SEO K2 4788
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[Elecraft] K2/100W running QRP: does fan run?

2005-05-16 Thread moore
If I remember correctly, as you increase the power level on a K2 with 100W 
option installed, a relay kicks in at roughly 12 watts and the QRO section is 
activated.  Does the fan ever operate at QRP levels or is it entirely disabled 
until you go beyond that threshold?
--Andrew
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Re: [Elecraft] Santa Cruz Sentinel article on Elecraft

2005-05-16 Thread Rod Hotz
You have to be very careful what the media writes. Just ask the editors at 
Newsweek. ;-)
 
Cheers,
 
Rod
K5BGB
 
 

Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi John,

That was more of a general statement and not meant to be specific :-) . It did 
not refer to any specific developments. No new radios in the near term for sure.

73, Eric WA6HHQ
Elecraft
---
John [K7SVV] wrote:
 The paragraph that caught my eye said:
 
 The company hopes to continue its growth and perhaps expand its
 headquarters in the near future, and it has a lot of stuff in
 development, according to Swartz, who said new radios and accessories
 are in the pipeline. 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Santa Cruz Sentinel article on Elecraft

2005-05-16 Thread Kevin Rock
This has to be market speak for we are going to announce something 
really, really big at Dayton ;)


Probably something that will put Hallicrafters, Hammerlund, and Heathkit 
all to shame!

  Kevin.  KD5ONS



On Mon, 16 May 2005 08:47:43 -0700, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Hi John,

That was more of a general statement and not meant to be specific :-) . 
It did not refer to any specific developments.  No new radios in the 
near term for sure.


73, Eric  WA6HHQ
Elecraft
---
John [K7SVV] wrote:

The paragraph that caught my eye said:

The company hopes to continue its growth and perhaps expand its
headquarters in the near future, and it has a lot of stuff in
development, according to Swartz, who said new radios and accessories
are in the pipeline. 

I am very curious what the new stuff is so , Eric, if you will
whisper it in my ear, I promise not to tell anyone.
John   [K7SVV]



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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Rosin

2005-05-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Allen KA5N wrote:
Most of the time, except for looks, rosin from good solders does no harm. 
You can do more harm than good if your cleaning isn't done properly.

---

Allen makes an good point and he identifies a misconception that comes up
regularly - that rosin harms the board over time.

The argument is that since it's capable of removing the oxidation from
metals to promote soldering, it will continue to attack the metals as long
as it's left on the board.

That is not true.  

Elecraft recommends solder such as Kester #44. Here's what the data sheet
from Kester says:

...Throughout its many years of wide usage, 44 Rosin Flux has produced many
billions of soldered connections. In all these billions of solder joints,
involving the most delicate and critical of electrical and electronic
components, there has never been an authentic instance of corrosion by the
flux residue under normal conditions of use

The full data sheet is available on line (http://tinyurl.com/agzxs)

Still, many builders do not like the appearance of an obvious amount of
rosin on the finished joints. The easiest, safest (in terms of avoiding
damage to your circuit board) way to avoid excess rosin is to use a the
right diameter solder, certainly nothing bigger than 0.031 for circuit
board work. I prefer smaller sizes such as 0.02 or 0.025. That helps avoid
getting too much solder on the joints too. Too much solder on the pads is an
on-going problem for many builders. 

Remember, the Elecraft boards do NOT require fillets of solder standing
above the solder pad. Indeed, they can be a problem. On some kits (KX1 and
T1 tuner, for example) the clearance between boards is so small that fillets
can cause shorts or prevent the boards seating correctly. On rigs like the
K2 where clearances are not so critical solder fillets have caused grief by
allowing shorts to occur on the component side of the board when solder
flows through the hole. One common place this causes trouble is under the
crystals. Excess solder can flow through and collect around the pin under
the crystal where it can't be seen. A little too much solder and the fillet
under the crystal will touch the case, shorting out the signal path. It's
really tough to find those!

Bottom line 

Use the solder recommended by Elecraft. 

Use small diameters (0.031 or less) for pcb work to avoid excess flux or
solder.  

Avoid producing fillets or bumps above the solder pad. In most cases this
won't hurt, but the right amount of solder fills the hole in the pad without
making a fillet.

Flux won't hurt the board.  

And ALWAYS WASH YOUR HANDS after handling solder to remove minute lead
residue from your skin. The residue can migrate through your skin over time
or be transferred to food when you eat. 

Ron AC7AC


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Toroids Latest?

2005-05-16 Thread Sverre Holm
-Original Message-
I have kept my K2 (1188) up to date with all the A/B mods, however at times
I see references such as the one below about T7  where a  toroid may have
been changed from the original windings to a revised spec. Are these
documented anywhere, which toroids are now different and why?
--

I have updated the mods list on
http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2/mod.html and the section on pre-3000
series mods (press section 3) on status of T3 and T7. 

My search of the mail list gave as a result that they both were changed to
their current turns numbers in K2 manual rev C (19 April 2000). If anybody
has more accurate info on which serial number the changes first applied to,
I will update with that info. My guess is somewhere in the 1000-1500 range.

Note also that the mods list on www.qsl.net has now been removed and it is
only to be found on the www.qslnet.de

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/
 
 

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[Elecraft] Bozo gets his...

2005-05-16 Thread Phil Townsend
AVA   

From Berry 

But the question is, will Berry bash the great and wonderful Bozo ???

Bozo, a grad of the Mike Jackson Daycare School...
Keep the gloves on boys and girl...


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[Elecraft] Dayton/Four Days in May

2005-05-16 Thread Jim Stafford
Just a short note for all you Elecrafters who are not on other QRP 
lists--- it's not too late to get in on the fun at the Holiday Inn - 
Fairborn.  It's the 10th anniversary of our popular FDIM event.  Rather 
than take up space here, go to:  http://www.eham.net/articles/10977 for 
a recent post.


At this time, you may still reserve a seat in the seminar using PayPal 
or at the door on Thursday morning - space permitting.  Banquet 
reservations must be made using PayPal before Monday night.


CU there!  And while you're looking at the website (www.qrparci.org), 
why not join the club?? 


--
Jim Stafford W4QORoswell, GA USAFDIM 2005 chairman

The internet never ceases to amaze me, and neither
does QRP for that matter!  de W4QO/QRP



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Re: [Elecraft] Simple Method for Measuring Tuner loss with reactiveloads

2005-05-16 Thread Stuart Rohre
Tony,
To save you and others some work, Frank Witt did an extensive measurement
series on many tuners; and published it in QST and I think, QEX magazines
with additional studies.  If you are an ARRL member, you can likely find the
info from the pieces on the ARRL web site.  It may be in the open Technical
topics section.  He measured the Johnson Matchbox, and found although a good
balanced tuner, it did not match all impedances and work on all of today's
bands.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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[Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread Rich Lentz
I would like some advice on the correct Ferrite beads to use in the P/S line
to minimize noise from a switching P/S. Though slightly off topic, with the
exception you must get power to the Elecraft rig somehow and quite often it
is a switching power supply due to their small size this is going to be used
for my K2. I have read many recommendations on their use here but can't find
the answers to my questions. I have spent several hours on the internet and
the only conclusive information is Don't get one of those split beads from
Radio Shack as they are for frequencies above 30 MHZ.  There was discussion
on using type 75 or 77  as this has a higher impedance at lower
frequency but that does not help me. 

My question is What Ferrite Bead, Core, etc.?  Can someone give me a part
number.

How big does it need to be so that 10 amps, 25 amps, etc will not hurt it?

How many turns through the core?

Should the wire (wires) be bi-filar wound or separated and wound on opposite
sides?

Thanks,

Rich,
KE0X

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FW: [Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread Dan Barker
I just gave up on the whole thing, bought a car battery and a $20 trickle
charger. Two (both sides) 30A fuse holders and it even works after the power
goes out. A bit heavy, but a great addition to the bench! Pretty clean
powerg!

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
I would like some advice on the correct Ferrite beads
/snip

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Re: FW: [Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread RC KC5WA
A Word of caution Charging Car Batteries give off  HYDROGEN GAS don't 
charge them indoors in a closed room


Dan Barker wrote:


I just gave up on the whole thing, bought a car battery and a $20 trickle
charger. Two (both sides) 30A fuse holders and it even works after the power
goes out. A bit heavy, but a great addition to the bench! Pretty clean
powerg!

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
I would like some advice on the correct Ferrite beads
/snip

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[Elecraft] Dayton Elecraft Party

2005-05-16 Thread Lee Buller


Hey,

Where is the Elecraft Party at Dayton?

Lee - K0WA


Common sense is in short supply - get some and use it.
If you can't find any common sense, ask somebody who owns some.
- Lee Buller
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RE: [Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread Robert Tellefsen
Hello Rich
Several suggestions.

First, for the ac cord, use a large enough toroid so that you can get a
number
of turns through it.  Try to get them to lay smoothly next to each other,
rather than bunching and crossing over each other.  You can remove the ac
plug for the winding, then install a new one when the windings are done.

This doesn't answer your question as to what material to use though.  Here I
have
a shoebox full of orphan toroids, where I don't know their history.  I use
my antenna analyzer to check the impedance of a number of turns on a given
toroid,
and keep trying 'til I find one that gives a good impedance over the hf
range.
If someone can specify a particular core material that is known to be good,
that
is even better.  Put the toroid as close to the switcher as you can, to
minimize
the amount of cord that can radiate hash.

Second suggestion is to provide some spacing, say up to six feet or so from
the radio.
I'm assuming your switching supply is in a plastic case.  That seems to be
rather
common these days.  On the dc output side, place another toroid, as close to
the
power supply output as possible, again to minimize the amount of wire that
can
radiate hash.  Use a heavy enough gauge of wire to minimize voltage drop
though.
For a K2, a heavy lamp cord would do nicely.

Third suggestion is to be sure you are using either coax or a balanced
feedline with
balun.  Either approach will have minimum pickup in the vicinity of the
radio.  The
hash will have to go all the way out to the antenna to be picked up, and by
then it
should be too weak to be a problem (hopefully).

Hope this helps you get started, Rich.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
Rich Lentz
Sent: Monday, May 16, 2005 1:25 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.


I would like some advice on the correct Ferrite beads to use in the P/S line
to minimize noise from a switching P/S. Though slightly off topic, with the
exception you must get power to the Elecraft rig somehow and quite often it
is a switching power supply due to their small size this is going to be used
for my K2. I have read many recommendations on their use here but can't find
the answers to my questions. I have spent several hours on the internet and
the only conclusive information is Don't get one of those split beads from
Radio Shack as they are for frequencies above 30 MHZ.  There was discussion
on using type 75 or 77  as this has a higher impedance at lower
frequency but that does not help me.

My question is What Ferrite Bead, Core, etc.?  Can someone give me a part
number.

How big does it need to be so that 10 amps, 25 amps, etc will not hurt it?

How many turns through the core?

Should the wire (wires) be bi-filar wound or separated and wound on opposite
sides?

Thanks,

Rich,
KE0X

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Re: FW: [Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread Daniel Reynolds
My solution is similar. I use a sealed 12 AH gelcell 'jumpstart' battery with a
built in charger (paid $50 at AutoZone, but seen for as low as $40).

Here's a link to the Mity Mite:
http://www.batterychargers.com/details.cfm?prodid=PS%2D120Acatid=13

I leave it plugged into the outlet all of the time (float charge ... takes a
few days to top it off if I've drained it significantly). Sometimes I'll unplug
it to see if I'm getting much RFI from the charger - but it is usually very
little.

I went with a 12 AH because it should be more than enough for me to use for
Field Day each year with my K2/QRP.

Daniel AA0NI

p.s. No Hydrogen problem with this set up (that I am aware of).

p.p.s. I keep this in the bedroom underneath the student desk by the window I
operate from. If it was a real car battery or deep cycle battery - I'd probably
keep it outside, and run the power through the window/wall to avoid Hydrogen
because it can be a serious danger - even with a trickle charger.

---  \RC\ KC5WA [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 A Word of caution Charging Car Batteries give off  HYDROGEN GAS don't 
 charge them indoors in a closed room
 
 Dan Barker wrote:
 
 I just gave up on the whole thing, bought a car battery and a $20 trickle
 charger. Two (both sides) 30A fuse holders and it even works after the power
 goes out. A bit heavy, but a great addition to the bench! Pretty clean
 powerg!
 
 Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
 
 snip
 I would like some advice on the correct Ferrite beads
 /snip
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Power Supply Ferrite Beads.

2005-05-16 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 16/05/05 23:08:10 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

First,  for the ac cord, use a large enough toroid so that you can get  a
number
of turns through it.  Try to get them to lay smoothly next  to each other,
rather than bunching and crossing over each other.  You  can remove the ac
plug for the winding, then install a new one when the  windings are done.



Reply: ---
 
Like Bob, N6WG I used a large ferrite ring that was sold at a hamfest for  
use to construct a filter for hi-fi interference and TVI  suppression at HF at 
about US$1.00 each. Through this wound as many turns of 3  conductor AC power 
cord that would fit laid flat with it's outer sheath removed.  Ended up with 
about 12 turns secured with plastic cable ties. In my case was  using this to 
suppress a noisy PC switched mode supply at HF so added an  IEC free socket on 
the end of the short cable tail. The  incoming power was taken through one of 
the shielded IEC chassis  mounting filter with male connector that are 
available in the market.  Mounted the whole lot in a plastic box with an added 
MOV 
suppresser to remove  spikes mounted at the terminals of the IEC filter. This 
is 
only added for the  benefit of the PC to prevent spikes causing system 
crashes. Mounted the box  next to the power socket on the PC switch mode PSU to 
keep 
any leads  short.
 
Works well allowing me to have the PC running at the same time as working  HF 
which was just about impossible before. Purposely suppressed all three  
conductors including ground which decoupled the PSU case and by default the PC  
to 
contain the interference sources. Noted that a commercial power  filter for 
telephone switch use was found to be similar, with all three  conductors 
including the ground lead decoupled with an inductors.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SSB Question

2005-05-16 Thread Mike Markowski
Ok, gang, please ignore my previous post and rack it up to simple
paranoia.  I finished my 100 W stage Saturday, tried to make a few
QSOs Sunday and failed during the abysmal band condx.  I felt
fairly sure I must've have messed up something while installing the
amp.  *BUT* today after work I had a solid phone QSO on 20m between
here (Pennsylvania) and Texas with a fellow K2 owner, though he was
on a Collins at 900 W today.  We had 30 minutes with no fading and
a great chat.  It's likely coincidence, but he said I was the first
QSO all afternoon he'd been able to maintain for more than a few
minutes.  I followed this up with a psk31 qso just to be sure all
is well.  Paranoia cured!  Now...do I sell my other rig which is
getting very little use since the K2 showed up??  :-/

Mike WA1SEO, maybe your experience is the same as mine - just a
misinterpretation?  If you have access to a scope, that would
let you know for sure what's happening.  Short of that, the good
ol' whistle test to a dummy load will be helpful as well.

73,
Mike  AB3AP
Avondale, PA

On Mon 16-May-05 at 1149 EDT, Mike Markowski wrote:
 
 [...] SSB sounds fine on my test rcvr on 40m and
 80m, 100 W into dummy load, where I see peaks of maybe 20 to 25 W when
 speaking into the mic.  But on other bands I see about 2 W! [...]
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[Elecraft] Fuel for the Morse interface fire

2005-05-16 Thread Craig Rairdin
I posted this last Friday when it was fresh but it got rejected due to size
and I just got the bounce message today. Here it is again for those who
care:

I spend a lot of time tapping out text on my cell phone using T9 or
multitap input methods (the latter being where you press 2 once to get A,
twice for B, three times for C, etc. for each key on the phone). And I write
software for cellphones and PDAs for a living. 

The mention of Morse as a phone/PDA user interface (UI) got me thinking
about using the * # keys as dit and dah (or dah and dit if you prefer). The
question is, which input method requires fewer keystrokes?

A quick look at the key assignments shows that it takes no more than 3
keystrokes for most letters using multitap, except S and Z. Numbers take 4
strokes except 7 and 9 which take 5.

Morse requires 4 strokes for many letters and 5 for numbers. Only two
letters can be represented with one stroke (E and T) whereas multitap can do
8 letters with one  stroke (A, D, G, J, M, P, T, and W).

If we wire the Morse UI like a keyer so that the keys repeat if held down,
then seven letters and two numbers can be sent with one keystroke (E, I, S,
H, 5, T, M, O, and 0), most of the rest can be done with two or three, and
only the letter C requires 4.

The PDA software I work on is for Bible study. For fun I ran the text of the
Bible through a program that counted keystrokes using each of these methods.
The Bible text I used was the New International Version. The file was in
HTML so I ignored characters in tags.

Here are the results:

Total characters processed: 3,215,866
Multitap keystrokes: 6,939,643
Morse keystrokes: 8,349,063
Morse with autorepeat: 5,454,858

Then for even more fun I ran a 50MB collection of Bible reference books
through the process (less than 30 seconds... ain't computers grand?):

Total characters processed: 52,414,671
Multitap keystrokes: 114,462,190
Morse keystrokes: 136,308,478
Morse with autorepeat: 89,415,736

There are some other interesting advantages to a CW interface:

1. CW combines the use of two buttons and *time* as a third parameter (the
length of time you hold down the key changes the meaning of the keystroke).
So you're getting three pieces of info from two keys. Multitap reduces
keystrokes by increasing the number of keys. CW reduces keystrokes by using
the duration of the keystroke to supply additional information.

2. One of the frustrations of multitap comes when you need two characters in
a row from the same key. You either need to tap the right-arrow key to move
to the next character or wait for it to time out. With CW there's a natural
break between characters that is dependant on your sending speed.

There's some obvious disadvantages of coures. For one thing, nobody knows
Morse Code so it's not very practical for the general public. (Compare the
popularity of Esperanto as an international UI for example.)

Anyway it's an interesting thought. It doesn't seem like it would be that
hard for the right person (i.e. total nutcase with more time than brains) to
rig this up on a couple of popular phones so we can all play with it. Come
on, I know there are at least a couple of you on the list. :-)

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966

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[Elecraft] K2 Audio Hum Problem (60c)

2005-05-16 Thread K9ut
I noticed a severe hum (60cycle) hum in the K2  after testing a Heath  hw101 
.   it appeared that i had damaged the front end of the K2 ,and  after some 
alarm and checking all things i discovered that i had moved a Small  Alarm 
Clock 
120vac near the K2 and it was causing all the problem . I have  heard about 
similar problems with Power Supplies near the rig but this is a new  one ! It 
sure caused me some grief for awhile (hi)
 
 So keep all ac coils , Xmfrs, clocks ,etc away from the K2 !
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
   72,73, Jerry K9UT #1273
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Filter attenuation?

2005-05-16 Thread Ken Lotts
Thanks for the many replies, after spending HOURS of tweaking and reading
and retweaking and listening I have a better picture of what my K2 CW
filters are capable of..  There is an interesting dent in each of the curves
that I can not explain.. any ideas?

Worth noting, I found out by accident that I can produce a chart that shows
zero attenuation between filter settings simply by turning on the AGC.  So
if you do this, you are not getting realistic attenuation readings.

The below chart is the best I can produce with the AGC turned off.  Bottom
line is that I get about 6 db of attenuation when I switch to the 200 Hz
filter.  The manual says the filter is designed down to 250 hz so I think
that I should be just a tad better than what I am.How far down in db is
the filter bandwidth measured ?  (I seem to recall it is 6 db?)

http://www.vtc.net/~ken/filters2.jpg

Ken Lotts
aa7jc

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[Elecraft] Camping trip with KX1

2005-05-16 Thread wayne burdick
I'm posting this on behalf of John, AE5X, who was having trouble 
posting to the reflector. See URL below.


--Wayne, N6KR


* * *

My camping trip to the Wichita Mountains was great  the KX1 performed 
flawlessly. Details, photos, etc at:


http://www.ae5x.com/charon.htm

73,
John AE5X


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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RE: [Elecraft] Simple Method for Measuring Tuner loss withreactiveloads

2005-05-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Stuart K5KVH wrote:
He (Frank Witt) measured the Johnson Matchbox, and found although a good
balanced tuner, it did not match all impedances and work on all of today's
bands. -Stuart K5KVH

---

E.F. Johnson specified the Matchbox tuners for 3.5 to 30 MHz. Over that
range, the Johnson specifications say they were capable of matching antennas
showing feedpoint impedances of 50 to 1200 Ohms into balanced lines and 50
to 2000 ohms into unbalanced lines. 

1200 ohms is not especially impressive when feeding the all-band doublet
type of antenna with open wire line. The impedance can easily exceed this
value. 

On the lower end, 50 ohms is no great value either. Short antennas can
easily show impedances below 10 ohms. 

So, while the venerable Matchbox ATU's were very good, they definitely
couldn't load up the bedsprings as we used to say in praise of a tuner
that could load anything! 

Ron AC7AC


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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Fuel for the Morse interface fire

2005-05-16 Thread Cyberia
Wayne Burdick wrote:
 
 Morse has three other ergonomic advantages you didn't mention:
 
 1. You can send Morse with one hand (even medium-fast text messaging
 requires two hands)
 

Text messaging with my phone requires cradling the phone in one hand and
pressing the digits with the thumb of that hand. What does the other hand
need to do? 

Maybe you have a really big cell phone?  :-)

de - N3WZ (Jim)


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Filter attenuation?

2005-05-16 Thread Vic Rosenthal

Ken Lotts wrote:


The below chart is the best I can produce with the AGC turned off.  Bottom
line is that I get about 6 db of attenuation when I switch to the 200 Hz
filter.  


I would say this is typical.

But...your widest filter shouldn't be centered on 570 Hz, since this allows 
significant response on the wrong side of zero beat.  You should move the 
passband of this filter a bit higher; you would get slightly more output at 570 
Hz if you did this, too.  There's no rule that says the filters must be 
centered.  It's probably not useful to have any response below about 200 Hz.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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