Re: [Elecraft] Re: IC-7800
Well, to compare them more directly, I think you have to add a bit more extras and the price and is about 3dB higher since most people aren't looking for a QRP CW rig. I know I'll sound like a heretic here, but I'm planning on running 100W almost exclusively. On Sun, 27 Jun 2004, Jeff Davis wrote: What kind of bragging rights is it to say that for $11,000 our receiver is better than that of a $599 kit? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 inventory question
SN4355 has the resistors on the strip. So far, so good, I'm past the initial checks on the RF board (i.e. my control board and front panel work). I got an incredible headache sorting the caps. My wish for future builders: sort parts in a more sensible order so the RF board parts are divided into the stages. I know that means more labor at Elecraft, but so far that's my main complaint. :) On Sun, 4 Jul 2004, Don Wilhelm wrote: Bill, Elecraft continually improves things - we all know that. So now you will find R50 and R58 on the strip of resistors - at least they were that way for SN4192 when I assembled it. Yes, it has not always been that way - those resistors were previously shipped loose in the RFb bag, so your memory is working well. 73, Don W3FPR Life is what happens when you are making other plans - Original Message - Just completing inventory check for my second K2 (#4313)all well except can't find R50 and R58 (both 1/2 watt so not on the bandolier) are these normally loose in the RFb bag? or do they lurk in some other spot and I've had a senior moment and missed them?. I wouldn't normally bother the reflector for two R's but R50 is 1.5 Ohms and low values not easy to come by here. TIA Bill / VK4SQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft K2 #4355 is just about finished.
Well, I didn't do much else over the long weekend. Ran the wood chipper this afternoon and so I'm too tired to mount the speaker. I'll have to find my wirestrippers and who needs to do that at 10PM? Other than that, it went together pretty easily. Now, what order do I put together the SSB, 60M kit, and KPA100? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 problem: C44 at the limit
So K2 #4355 took less than a week to complete. (I cheated. 20 years ago I won the VICA Industrial Electronics national competition, the run-off, and they sent me to Europe to compete for the US.) It's not the prettiest, but it seems to work. So the only oddity is that C44 is at one of the limits, or so it seems. The slot is vertical, meaning the C is either maximum or minimum. L12, L13, and C46 didn't seem to affect it. So, anyone have any suggestions? Ignore it, parallel another cap for testing, etc? A friend has challenged me to make at least one contact on it before I start installing the options. I better start working on my antennas. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Frequency Calibration
Speaking of zero beating, why not get an AM receiver tuned to WWV and zero beat the tone from the AM receiver to the SSB receiver? That way you can get within fractions of 1 Hz and it's a lot easier than watching a computer screen. I found that I couldn't get the K2 spot on because of the calibration procedure. I got it darn close, though. On Wed, 7 Jul 2004, Don Wilhelm wrote: Michael and all, Yes, because the K2 has independent BFO adjustments for USB and LSB you must know that both BFOs have been properly set before you can do 'tone matching' to determine the correct dial setting. It IS a good method to verify that one has achieved correct calibration, but if the dial calibration is suspect, attempting to get it correct by matching the LSB/USB tones may prove to be an exercise in frustration. If you need to set WWV right on (as when using it to set the reference oscillator with the N6KR method), I recommend using Spectrogram to view the frequency of the transmitted tones - they will alternate between 500 and 600 Hz in alternate minutes. See the dial calibration article on my webpage www.qsl.net/w3fpr for more detailed information. 73, Don W3FPR - Original Message - I've found that using the frequency calibration method in which you switch between LSB/USB when monitoring the tone (tuning for the point at which there is the least difference in the WWV tone between LSB and USB) on WWV at 15 or 20 MHz works very well on my Kenwood TS-930S. Given the fact that the K2 has independent BFO settings for LSB/USB, can this method be accurately used to check the K2's display frequency against WWV? Thanks, Michael N9BDF -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Extreme happy dance!
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004, Lawrence Makoski wrote: I am doing my best imitation of Calvin (from Calvin and Hobbes fame) dancing around the house in a quite ecstatic manner. K2 sn# 4090 is complete and has made it's maiden voyage! A QSO with W4USR on 40 meters got my new radio's feet wet! Thank you Eric and Wayne and to everyone at Elecraft for one totally awesome and enjoyable building experience! Congratulations. I'm afraid #4355 took a bit longer to get working. It took a full day of troubleshooting (gotta love being a ham in a community with lots of TM equipment) to figure out that RFC15 was open. Then, my crummy antenna kept my signal out of other people's receivers. Answered 6 CQ's before Paul, KC7NBM, finally heard me. QSB got him and I'm not sure he heard his RST. So it may or may not have counted as a contact. :) OK, time for the add-ons: 60M, 160M, SSB, NB, and the KPA100. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraftHelp: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] sensitivity/noise question
Compared to my IC-706MKII, the Elecraft seems to be stingier on the S-meter and seems to hear a lot less noise. And yes, I used an antenna switch and did A/B comparisons. I shouldn't complain, since the Elecraft is great to listen to, especially on 40M, but should I break out the test equipment and try to peak things up again? And now that I type this, I wonder if my cabling is OK. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Noise from the KPA100 computer interface.
I noticed a couple of nights ago that the computer interface cable to the KPA100 was causing so much noise that I couldn't hear YV0D. Well, he couldn't hear me so it's a moot point, but I'm using a Keyspan USB to serial adapter. Anyone know of any quieter adapters or filtering advice? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Spot causes signal distortion
Make sure you didn't break RFC15 (check for continuity). You'll also hear a very ugly sounding transmit signal if RFC15 is broken. On Wed, 4 Aug 2004, Jay Blass wrote: Just getting K2 4329 aligned and on the air. All alignments are complete (thanks to spectrogram and Tom Hammond), but I have found that activating the spot tone feature distorts the incoming rx signal. This is very evident both auditory and when viewing the signal on Spectrogram. I've used Spotting on the K1 extensively, but the current situation on the K2 makes this feature unusable. Any ideas? Jay N5ACM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] A few photos... again... OT Power connector.
Compare the power connector to the diagram in the KPA100 manual. I think it's backwards. On Fri, 13 Aug 2004, JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote: I did red connector with red battery wire and black connector with black battery wire Le 04-08-13, à 12:13, Fernando Quinones a écrit : Hello.. Great pictures and T-Shirt. I notice on one of the pictures for the 897 power pack (http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum29.html), that the Anderson power connector shows the red on the right with the metal tongue down, shouldn't the red connector be on the left? I have wired all mine and no matter how I look at them, they don't look like yours when I have the wire as you have them. Perhaps I'm in error. Can you or someone help me out? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Is the K2-keyer similar to most other Iambic keyers?
I'm sure there are timing differences in all of them, but I'm about to (finally, after 27 years of hamming) going to learn how to use paddle. Maybe even the darn Bencher paddles my parents gave me for Christmas. Christmas of 1979, I think. I suppose I could carry the K2 and a small power supply around with me, but I thought maybe just a small keyer would be easier for practice. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Is the K2-keyer similar to most other Iambic keyers?
That's where I started out. I then went to k7qo's pages at http://www.qth.net/k7qo and that kind of got me thinking I need to learn how to use the paddles and quit using my keyboard keyer. You're all very bad influences. :) On Mon, 23 Aug 2004, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Actually, the timing is very, very consistent from keyer to keyer. The biggest difference is in choosing whether you want to use Mode A or Mode B keying. Some folks can switch from one mode to another easily, others have a very hard time. So you might want to consider which mode you plan to use. There's a good discussion of the modes at: http://tinyurl.com/6dmc3 Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I'm sure there are timing differences in all of them, but I'm about to (finally, after 27 years of hamming) going to learn how to use paddle. Maybe even the darn Bencher paddles my parents gave me for Christmas. Christmas of 1979, I think. I suppose I could carry the K2 and a small power supply around with me, but I thought maybe just a small keyer would be easier for practice. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CW
On Sat, 25 Sep 2004, Paul Bartlett wrote: I've mumbled on about this on a couple of occasions on several lists. I'm trying to bring my Morse up to an acceptable standard. I've tried a number of approaches but so far nothing seems to work for me. Oddly, I can send at modest speeds but seem to be almost completely unable to read incoming. My nice K2 is sitting forlornly at the back of the bench. Any suggestions? google for ah0a and for k7qo. The first is a program, the second is a complete course of mp3s that fit on a cd. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Re: Rediculous, unreasonable and selfish firmware feature request..
And I thought that 599 was just an official part of the exchange. :) On Tue, 9 Nov 2004, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I used to give out real S-reports during contests. Too often that confused the other op who then asked for repeats. That slowed down the whole exchange. I finally defaulted to 599 even though the only contest contacts I made were entirely by hand key. It just didn't seem polite to confuse the other guy going for the big score... -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] keyer thread
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004, David A. Belsley wrote: Ideally, taking the keyer function out of the main CPU would free up code space for other functions. Fortunately, this idea is a non-starter. Removing the internal keyer from the K2 would obviously reduce the K2's portability significantly, requiring one to take, and power, an additional box in /p operation. Bad idea. Have you seen the size of tiny pic keyers nowadays? If the keyer had to be taken out of the CPU, I sure wouldn't miss it, I'd replace it. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Circuit Simulation Software
On Wed, 17 Nov 2004, Howard W. Ashcraft wrote: I am looking for software (preferably Linux, open source) to model electronic circuitry. My primary interest is educational. I want to use the software to design and investigate circuits to better understand how they work. I may do a little design, as well. Does anyone have suggestions? Heh. I use SPICE, and I'm sure by now that there's a nice front-end for the thing. It's old and crusty and ran on IBMs when I first started using it. Used it to model CMOS timing the last time I had an EE job. For a lot leetnix software, you can check freshmeat.net, part of the OSTG (Open Source Technology Group?) like slashdot.org, etc. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Highest power supply voltage for K2?
I worked in the semiconductor industry and I remember frying a bunch of chips when I reached a knee in the current draw. You can increase the voltage until something breaks down, and then you're hosed. Lots of current flows and your semiconducting device is no longer conducting at all since you let all the magic smoke out. I'd suggest the correct batteries, but I worked in a ham radio repair shop years ago and I know how *(@#*$ cheap hams are so I know telling you to pay any extra to use the correct batteries will fall on deaf ears. :) - Original Message - From: Dan Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED] I hook the 6V Camera up to a 6V power supply (actually a variable voltage PS) through an ammeter. I slowly advance the voltage (toward the 9.6V target of the high-capacity batteries stolen from my Electric Zagi model airplane). I figure if the current goes up, I'm going to cook something. If the current decreases, then the power being dissipated is roughly constant so I'm not cooking anything. If I'm WAY off in left field, let me know. I'll spring for the $60 camera batteries that don't last worth a poop instead of the [already on hand] airplane batteries that hold up nicely. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] Big K2 (or K2B - B for Big)]
How about just a big front panel replacement? More buttons! On Mon, 27 Dec 2004, Hank Kohl K8DD wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I think that a lot of K2 owners, particularly contesters and DXers, get around the small size of the K2 by using computer control. That way they have a small rig for portable use and a big computer display for home use. The big remote knob (CRS* is causing me to block on its real name) gives a nice ergonomic interface for tuning and RIT. That's not entirely true at least in my case. In a contest about the only things I use are the main tuning knob and the AF gain. At least when we're running. Maybe the RIT for the stations that don't zero beat. When I'm searching, it's the main tuning knob and maybe the AF gain. The computer control keys the radio, keeps track of the frequency/band. I try not to use any more of the buttons on the front panel than I have to when I'm contesting. Pretty much the same for DXing Set the filters the way I want them and DSP if I need it. Only thing that drives me crazy is the A=B and SPLIT on the same button! I would like to see a K2Big - maybe even take my K2/100, strip the case and front panel and PCB's and put it in an upgrade box! -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Info 090 at first test
Well, knowing Greg and the quality of his workmanship, I'd doubt that bad soldering is the problem. Also, his rf test bench is probably on the same level of, say, Ron's. Searching the web didn't show us much info on Info 090. Too bad it wasn't Info 80. On Sun, 26 Dec 2004, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: The most likely problem is a poor solder joint or an unsoldered joint. As I say many times ' Check the soldering, then recheck the soldering, and when you have finished that, check the soldering.' That will fix the majority of problems. The second most common problem is a misplaced component - so go back over your components with the parts listing in hand and be certain all the components you have placed are correct. -- My Christmas gift (OK, I opened it early) says Info 090 when powered up. According to the manual this is EEPROM Test #1 failed. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA 100 Power requirements
I have an Astron 35 and the foldback circuitry is pretty nice. I had the two power leads that go from the KPA100 to the K2 pinched between the shield and the side of the case, making a nice dead short. My Astron just folded back the voltage and no fuses were wasted. I wouldn't suggest this as a test for anyone else. :) On Mon, 3 Jan 2005, Stuart Rohre wrote: Steve, the Astron has the ratings to handle the K2 plus 100 watts. It also has voltage regulator that should limit the current, so added breaker is optional. It should be slightly larger than the current draw of the K2 plus the amplifier, if used. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Headphones
On Wed, 19 Jan 2005, David Gordon wrote: Hey, I'm in the market for a new pair of headphones. Whats your favorite and what don't you like. I only want one pair. :-) I like the Heil Pro Set Plus my friend has, but my Heil Pro Set from Elecraft are almost unusable after an hour or so. The size of the hole where your ear fits is quite different, and the headphones I bought from Elecraft make my ears hurt a lot. It's enough that I'm about to buy the Plus. Maybe my ears are bigger than most (I doubt it). -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 missing parts - is this to be expected?
On Fri, 21 Jan 2005, Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote: When I built my K1 and again when I built my K2 there was not a single part missing. Nada, zip, zilch, zed, zero. I had THOUGHT there were parts missing in both kits. It turned out that I had overlooked them or found them to be in a place other than where I had expected them to be. No matter what people say, there's no magic or mojo in these things. People make mistakes, so if you can't find the parts, send an email to Elecraft. I was missing several toroids and a couple of caps from my SSB board and I had them replaced fairly quickly. I defy anyone to go through their entire kit and just individually count the parts, and then do it again and see if the counts match. There's hundreds of little bits and that they got them most right is great. 100% accuracy would mean checking, double checking, triple checking and then having to pay that much extra for the human labor to do all that checking. You want your K2 to cost twice as much? If so, have them ship it to me, I'll check all the parts, and then I'll charge you my time for getting all the parts right. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Polling noise
Depends on the noise. The computer I'm using for logging has no serial port and it uses a USB-Serial converter. Puts a nice signal on 14.195, the DX calling frequency. That's not Elecraft's fault. However, there are some birdies that are. Up at my friend's QTH, the background noise is so low that you can hear all sorts of things, like the spur the DSP puts on the 220 calling frequency when using the transverter. Others have found several in band. Yeah, there are birdies, just like the rest of my radios. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 S/N 4787 Build In Progress
I've been doing electronics for years and there's some pattern matching you have to do when sorting out parts. Especially caps and resistor packs. It's not completely automatic like resistors used to be. (I say used to be because I could swear the colors were clearer when I was younger. :) ) I'd take all the capacitors and group them together first. Then you know that you have 12 marked 104 (for example) and then look on the list to see which capacitor you should have 12 of. Once in a while Elecraft gets the counts wrong so make sure you double check the values and ask here if you have to. Jim, AB0UK, wrote: I'm inventorying each board as it is begun. ... At this point capacitors for the RF board are a wild blur. I'm sure I have not correctly identified at least a third of them. Many numbers on the caps are simply not in the parts list. If anyone has a good way to ID them I would be pleased to hear from you. Measuring them so far has proved somewhat futile with a simple DVM with a capacitance measuring function. Several resistor packs have not had the right part numbers. So far I've been able to ID them by measureing them. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Yahoo group?
On Wed, 23 Mar 2005, wayne burdick wrote: Folks who see value in creating a separate Elecraft group, for whatever reason, might consider looking at the Elecraft group on Yahoo. This group is intended to augment the Elecraft reflector, according to its summary. It doesn't have a lot of members right now, and I'm not sure what their focus is. Heh. Of course you got me curious. The last email (from a couple weeks back) says, The purpose of this group is to post pics of your setups, pics of mods, etc. It also says, Eric from Elecraft will be moderating this group more than I am ... -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Greetings! (stripping and cleaning suggestion)
I only had a couple of problems building the K2/100, various options, and a KAT100-1. I'd suggest a Dremel tool for stripping paint and anodizing and a pocket knife for stripping 20ga enameled wire. Use the pocket knife to get most of the enamel off before you start to tin it. The smaller gauge wire strips fine with the hot solder blob trick but the 20 ga wire was a bear until I used the pocket knife trick. Other people probably have better luck using sandpaper to scrape off the paint on the insides of chassis, but I find the Dremel much more controllable and saves a lot of time. I was sanding for 45 minutes on the KPA100 heat sink trying to remove the anodizing until I gave up and got a new Dremel wire brush bit. The Dremel takes less than a minute and has more control over the area affected. You'll probably need a Dremel for the transverters, too. My buddy Greg had better luck with the Dremel than sandpaper on the transverters. Hey Wayne and Eric, could you get the painters to mask off the parts for the KAT100? Actually, I've already finished the thing, so maybe everyone else can have the same fun I did. :) -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Reciever
Yeah, I went the other way, from the 706MKIIG - K2 and I thought the K2 was broken until I checked it with a signal generator. :) On Fri, 1 Apr 2005, Brent Sutphin WB4X wrote: I have had K2 #2571 from its birth about three years ago. (approx.) I have always enjoyed the rig. It has a fantastic RX as I'm sure anyone who has a K2 will attest. Anyway I decided I wanted a QRO rig and bought an IC-706MKIIG about a month ago. Installed the FL-100 CW filter and was ready for the DX. I took my K2 out of service to give the new 706 a try. I didn't like the RX from the start. The audio with the CW filter and or the DSP is just annoying. It was very noisy, like S9 noise level almost continually. The only way I could manage the noise was by turning on the attenuator. Then the radio was even more deaf than before. Fellows I gave the radio a real good try. I suffered with it for over a month. Tonight while listening on low end of 40 meters, with the usual S8-9 noise and hearing only a few strong signals, I thought why am I doing this to myself. I took the 706 out and put the K2 in the same spot. NO NOISE...just good clean signals. It's really unbelievable how quiet the K2 RX really is. One lesson learned, if you have a good thing stick with it. The other thing..the 706 has to go. I just wanted to share this with someone. Brent WB4X -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 mic hole plugs FOUND!
On Tue, 5 Apr 2005, Lloyd Lachow wrote: Thanks to Scott, N0AR, I've found a great-looking plug for that unsightly 3/4 hole on the lower left of my K2's front panel. What exactly do you have against the PSK31 hole? :) -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Musings on Zeroing in on WWV
On Sun, 10 Apr 2005, W3FPR - Don Wilhelm wrote: Since my hearing is shot too, and I don't possess the gift of perfect pitch, I prefer to use LSB only and look for the tones at the proper pitch with Spectrogram - you can get within 10 Hz (limit of the K2 dial steps) or closer with ease - to me that is the easiest and the most accurate, and you don't have to monkey with calculating the CW offset stuff. My suggestion requires a second AM receiver and can get you within fractions of a Hz. You tune the AM RX to WWV and then you zero beat the background tone on the K2. Since I'm used to it and have extra SW receivers, it works well. I think either method, once you practice it, is a lot easier than you'd think! -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA800 @ $2.8k: count me in/out
On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Anything over $1500/US and I'm afraid I will have to count myself out. Wonder what others think? I've priced the transistors and I've priced power supplies. I don't think this amp will be cheap, which is why I keep looking for a used SB220. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Amplifier
On Tue, 26 Apr 2005, Nigel KC8NHF/G8IFF wrote: J F wrote: I agree with this Dave. Like many other things, it is easy whereas antenna improvements generally require thought and work. But remember that, you spending a fortune on a big amplifier isn't going to help you to hear the other weak station. It just frustrates the other station because he can easily hear you and you not hear him. He then brands you as having a lousy receive setup. Sometimes you need more power to talk to the alligators. Shouldn't we have the choice to turn up the power? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 battleplan?
On Fri, 29 Apr 2005, Ken Bessler wrote: I'll be sending out my 1st order for a K2 station next week. Many thanks to Jim Sheldon, W0EB for his demo of a K2 that flat out blew my mind. I still would like help from the users selecting both the construction order and exactly what to buy. Below is a list of what ( what order) I'm thinking of buying: 1) K2, KSB2 (May) 2) KPA100 (August) 3) K160RX, KNB2, KIO2 (September) 4) K60XV, KDSP2 (November) 5) XV50 (January '06) 6) XV144 (March '06) Have I missed anything? Is that order of construction a good one? Thanks for all the help! In my location, the K2 was unusable without the KNB2, so I'd get it in step 1. But as they say, YMMV. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
On Fri, 20 May 2005, Mike Morrow wrote: I wrote: Thank goodness for iambic mode A. I never understood how mode B, the result of a logic design error in an early (1960s) electronic keyer design, caught on. Bill wrote: I built a Mini-MOS key (from a 73 magazine article) back in 1979. It has dot and dash memories -- the quality that gives it Mode B. It takes extra circuitry to do this -- it's not just a logic design error. And Dan wrote: I had a Heathkit keyer on which I learned iambic, and it was all discrete logic gates and RC circuits. No ICs. It did exactly what the schematic said it would do. No error there. True, mode B did catch on (long before 1979) and circuits and chips were purposely designed to implement it. But the evil that spawned mode B occurred in an improperly designed keyer from the mid-1960s. Somewhere I've specific details...but not with me now. Not quite an answer but the ARRL article on John Curtis said, (according to John, Mode B was actually a design error by an unnamed company). http://www.arrl.org/news/features/2002/02/04/2/?nc=1 -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] If you were to do it all over again
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005, Lee Buller wrote: If you were going to build another K2 (and I know there are many of you who have built quite a few) what things would you do differently from the first build? Maybe get the un-modules. Maybe go even faster if I didn't have one to use already. :) Oh, one thing I'd do if I hadn't done it already is to buy the wire brush for my Dremel tool. Sandpapering stuff off of the side of the case was a pain, and getting the anodizing off of the heat sink for the KPA100 was nearly impossible without the Dremel. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 questions before purchase
On Fri, 29 Jul 2005, Mike Stricker wrote: So, while mulling over the pros and cons, I would like to get an idea of how much time the KPA100 would take to build for a seasoned kit builder/homebrewer. It took me a weekend. I tend to get sucked in when I do things like this and I have some experience, so I probably finished on the fast end of the spectrum. I remember finishing late afternoon on Sunday. I also remember driving to the hardware store to get a wire brush tool for my Dremel. I would (and have repeatedly :) ) suggest using that to remove the anodizing from the heat sink in just the places necessary. The Emery cloth did me no good. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Mode
And this is the one big reason that I'd recommend the Yaesu over the K3: user interface. What do I know, though, I have a K2. On Sun, 13 Sep 2009, Don Wilhelm wrote: Evert, You inadvertently switched to USB. The way to do it by intent is to hold ALT (yes, the MODE down button (you must have tapped for longer than a tap). Only one of the sidebands is shown for any one band - same way for CW and DATA modes - if you want to change to the opposite sideband, hold ALT - the K3 remembers that setting per band, per VFO. 73, Don W3FPR Evert Bakker (PA2KW) wrote: Problem solved. I think the LSB mode is somewhere disabled for 14 Mc. By toggling the mode (up) I didn't get the USB Mode. (For some unknown reason I'm always toggling up until I get what I want). By toggling down I did get back the USB mode. Wheird 73's, Evert PA2KW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Spurious
Motorola Powervoice speakers should have some shielding because they were meant to work with Motorola mobile radios. On Tue, 22 Dec 2009, Jim Brown wrote: On Tue, 22 Dec 2009 11:20:48 -0600, Tom Hammond wrote: I personally prefer UNamplified Motorola Mobile speakers, available regularly on EBay for $10 or less. Yes The AMPLIFIED Motorola speakers are also good, but require external power. I haven't seen any of these. BUT -- be VERY cautious with amplified speakers. In my short life (68 years), I've seen a LOT of amplified speakers, and I've only seen one that didn't suffer from RFI. It cost $3K. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Heat
On Fri, 15 May 2009, Jim Brown wrote: On Fri, 15 May 2009 10:53:10 -0400, Guy Olinger, K2AV wrote: What heat problem? No heat problem. W0YK is one of our more agressive members, a world champion RTTY contester, and an early beta tester. His response to this thread, before he hurried off to Dayton, was the same as Guy's -- there is no heat problem. He should know. Well, you're all ignoring the longevity reduction with heat. I'm sure if you have several K3's, you can afford to replace your rigs quite often and probably do, but there are guys who are still running their Drake twins and Collins 75A-3's. And I'm sure that means there are people who want to run their K3's for as long a time as well. If this was a K2, I'd say buy spare chassis parts and mount weird fans to your heart's content. I'm not sure you can do that with a K3. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Heat
On Sat, 16 May 2009, Jim Brown wrote: On Fri, 15 May 2009 09:14:50 -0700 (PDT), Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: Well, you're all ignoring the longevity reduction with heat. I'm certainly not, and I doubt that the designers of the radio have either. K6XX, an engineer who has looked carefully at the design, considers it very well designed from the point of view of heat and ventilation. The lead engineer is the same guy who designed the K2/100. They've sold close to 7,000 of them, and I've never heard of a problem with heat. Creative snipping, I'm going to do it too. I was talking about 80-year old radios, and keeping the radio running for that long. You're talking about 10, maybe? If you want to be super conservative, set up a small muffin fan to blow cool air on the radio. And, of course, calibrate the temperature sensors properly. But don't mess with the design. There's far more to it than meets the eye, especially the eye of someone who isn't an EE with this sort of design experience under his belt. And that's me, as I did semiconductor design. I'm just saying, if you want fans, use fans. Let people mess with the radio if they want. That's why I liked the K2, and one of the reasons I don't have a K3 yet. (The real reason is that I had to take my antenna down and so $2k seemed a bit much when I don't have anything to connect the radio to.) Also, you said you had several K3's. You're in a whole different league than people who just have one and want to screw around with it. People do mods to their FT1000's too, and those rigs are meant to keep their lids on. One reason I think screwing around with the radio is good is because that's how you learn things. Another is that it's fun. Sure you violate the warranty, but that's the price of admission. I know the designers made some tradeoffs in this radio; there's no way around that. What's wrong with second-guessing them and doing experiments as long as you keep your signal clean and within regulations? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] How do you write to the KDSP2?
I'm just thinking about the KDSP2, though I don't have one yet. Do you need to build up a fixture to write data to the KDSP2? It looks like the KDSP10 fixture from Lyle is no longer available and that looks like the way you would do some programming on it. Anyone have any pointers? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: RoHS Solder/ Was: A Quick Question About Solder
How old are you going to be in 20 years? Plus, remember the internet is killing ham radio and there will only be two dozen hams left then anyway, and half of them will be like me with no place to put up an antenna. Thanks for the fear-mongering though. It's not like I don't get enough of that. On Thu, 20 Aug 2009, paul alexander wrote: I work as a design engineer in the medical electronics industry and am well aware of both the domestic and international requirements as well as the implications of removing the lead from solder. My chief concern is with tin whiskering. Eventually small strands of tin hair grow amongst component pins, causing short circuits, which lead to circuit malfunctions. Eventually, your radio becomes an expensive paperweight. No, conformally coating the boards does not stop the problem. I know that all the Japanese radios are intended for the world market and must be manufactured for the lowest common denominator, RoHS compliance. Since I rarely purchase new HF radios (my last was in 1982), I wanted this one to last me for a while. This became even more important when I considered the fact that I was spending about $3000 for a radio. Elecraft's assurance that the radio was built on a leaded soldering process was a major factor in deciding to purchase the K3. Unfortunately, with the push to become RoHS compliant, the component manufacturers have virtually stopped making leaded components. This means that we can still see internal failures of the components, and is well beyond even Elecraft's control. This also means that some customers (military and aerospace) who think they are immune to the effects of RoHS will have some major difficulties ahead. As a side note, solder is not the only thing effected by RoHS. RoHS covers the entire product, including the metallic chassis parts and the plastics that are so common in electronics devices. Many plastics use lead as a stabilizer and can no longer be used. RoHS also prohibits the use of other heavy metals, such as cadmium, which is used as a plating on metal parts. Bromine, a fire retardant in many plastics used in semiconductor casings and circuit boards, has also been eleminated. It is my belief that the days of picking up a usable 20 year old radio at a hamfest will soon be over. Paul Alexander wb9ipa __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Problem ???
Does it happen on the KAF2 as well? I thought about getting one of those to play with. On Sat, 22 Aug 2009, Don Wilhelm wrote: Jim, That 'ticking' noise when in the DSP menu is present on all K2s with the KDSP2 option. I believe it is the sound of the clock updating. It is not a problem and goes away when you exit the DSP menus. I am surprised that you just now noticed it. 73, Don W3FPR Jim Harris wrote: Hi, My K2 is slightly over four years old. I only use it for portable operations about once per month. It has all the bells and whistles including DSP and all needed mods are installed. I power it with an external battery through an MFJ battery booster. I had to add the booster because as the battery voltage would drop below about 11.5 volts at the radio I would get reports of transmitted audio distortion. I now get good audio reports on my transmitted audio. Since I've added the booster when I set the display function to show the DSP parameters there is a crackling buzzing sound in the received audio. The other display settings do not cause the noise. Apparently there is no ill effect other than the annoying noise. Has anyone experienced this previously? Any idea as to what is causing the noise and how to get rid of it. Thank you. Have a good day and 73. Jim, W0EM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.64/2319 - Release Date: 08/22/09 06:06:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Why my Wife won't let me buy a K3
Tell her you need a K6. (I'm still holding off on the K5.) :) On Tue, 5 Feb 2008, Robert Parker wrote: I told my Wife that I was thinking of buying a K3. She said no and her reason! You already have a K3. You have a K1 and a K2 Therefore you have a K3. K1+K2 She informed me that this was the new math :O) I had to share this. Bless my Wife's heart. Robert Parker VE3RPF ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2
This is a reply to the original message, but since the K2 is a kit, there are lots of ways to screw it up. And you know how it's never the user's fault when there are problems. Just my guess. My K2 worked like crap because I broke RFC15 (and I have lots of building experience) but I was able to debug the problem with all the test equipment I had available. I'm sure if I just went bulldozing ahead without figuring out what was wrong, I would have thought the K2 was at fault. (It was ALMOST working.) On Fri, 8 Feb 2008, Darwin, Keith wrote: If you read the reviews, mine is the 2nd from the top. Not a lot of reviews in the last year or so. I stated there what I think of the rig so I won't repeat it here. The K2 is not a typical rig and those who expect a typical rig would do better with an Ikensu. K2 really optimizes RX performance which apparently, some don't value as much as the ability to sweep the VFO during SWR checks. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - - K3 Wave 3 - -Original Message- I was thinking about getting a K2 ... I went to the E-ham web page and read some of the reviews. There are a lot of people who really do not think too much of the K2. Comments on why the ratings have so many unhappy K2 users? Best, DW Holtman ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me
I work for one of the companies in question, so it's hard for me to be completely objective. CPU frequency isn't the only thing because there are multiple internal clocks on the CPUs and one big number isn't going to tell you everything about how fast things are running internally. The Pentium D's with higher clock rates aren't as fast as the Core 2's with lower clock rates in every case I've benchmarked (keep in mind I have only a very minimal set of benchmarks to go on here). You should also look at power consumpution (the fans are going to drive you nuts sometimes). I have noticed that the Core 2 processors are faster but seem to run the fans a lot less than the Pentium Ds. Multi-core processors are going to do well fo you if you need to do multiple processor-intensive things at once. I'm not sure how much processor it requires to do PSK31 while also running all the Vista nonsense in the background; someone else will have to vouch for that. So by now you can probably tell which company I work for. My basic suggestion is to go with a Core 2 system over a Pentium D system because there was a significant architecture change and it helps the computers run cooler and quieter. And that's just me talking, not the company. Oh, and it's usually true nowadays that the computers are fast enough to do whatever you need, unless you're processing video in the background while you're trying to run the rig. On Sat, 23 Feb 2008, Robert Tellefsen wrote: Hi Doug You've got some real legitimate questions that a lot of us non-gurus would like to hear the answers to. If you get a lot of your replies direct, could you summarize them in a post to us masses? Thanks and 73 Bob N6WG - Original Message - From: DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:49 AM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Attn CPU gurus - help me I want to hook my K3's up to the latest skimmer software along with computer control of the rig, etc. and of course via the LP-Pan when it is available (soon). My query is about the computer processor and associated elements. Currently, I am reading that the way to go for skimmer (192kc bandwidth - not that I need that), is to use a machine with a 3G processor. But that seems to only account for one element of the system rating. My current ham radio computer is a fossil on which I run DOS stuff. But my home computer (this one) is a Pentium 4, 3.0 Gig. Sounds right, but.. When I look at the new machines (which seem relatively cheap for what you get), I see: Core 2 Quad Q6600 Core 2 Duo Pentiuim Dual Core Celeron Athlon 64 etc. Then I see speeds for each of the above, NONE of which goes up to 3.0 gig. Just because my current processor has the 3.0 gig label, I am assuming that these newer releases are even faster, despite the lower clock rate. For the app's that I'm looking at, DOES CLOCK RATE RULE or does this other stuff count too? I also see big variables on the L2 Cache: 2MB, 4MB, 8MB - relatively speaking, how important are these compared to the other factors? And then there is the Front Side Bus speed: 800, 1333. Weird that the Core 2 Quad (which sounds like the best to me) has a FSB of 1066 (not the fastest). And finally, there is the clock speed, which for most of the above is 2.2, 2.33, 2.66 gig (again, not reaching 3.0). How do I put all this together? Again, for MY apps, which figure of merit is most important? Or do I just multiply them all together? :-) Reminder: CPU gurus only need respond. I prefer direct replies, but I assume that this topic might be of wide interest to the Elecraft group...YOUR CHOICE if you respond to the list or just to me. THANKS A TON! de Doug KR2Q Expert on DRGs, not CPUs http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diagnosis-related_group this page is rather outdated ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3-Latest K3 Review on EHAM
On Sun, 24 Feb 2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 2/24/08 8:57:10 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The reviewer (Solardx) gives the results of a test he ran on his K3. Solardx is completely anonymous - no call, no name, no K3 serial number. Yet his rating affects the score as much as somebody who's got one of the first ones and has many hours of experience testing and using it, and who signs his name to his words. It was me, I was hoping to clear out the queue before I ordered mine. (I'm KIDDING.) -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3-Latest K3 Review on EHAM
I should quit now, but I just realized that a bad review is a good thing in one respect, it shows that if you get a bad radio, you're not alone. There's probably TWO out there. :) Honestly, I doubt all the radios are working at the time they're received, but if you listen to some of the goings on here you'd think that a bad radio means it's all your fault and you might as well find a new hobby. The good thing is that Elecraft (and Don, and Tom, and please excuse me if I forgot your name here) will help you fix things. If we could only focus on that. On Tue, 26 Feb 2008, Joseph M. Durnal wrote: When it comes to reviews, I tend to focus on the bad ones as the good ones could simply represent someones feeling that they spent plenty of money on something, it must be good. When it comes to ham gear, a bad review without a call sign doesn't get much weight. I suppose the reviewer in this case could have made up for it by giving the serial number of his K3, but that wasn't included either. I don't think it is a true review. Of course, my K3 has been ordered, my review will follow after I feel I know the radio, it could be a few weeks, or it could be a few months, I won't know until I know. 73 de Joseph Durnal NE3R On Sun, Feb 24, 2008 at 3:29 AM, Bob DeHaney [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The reviewer (Solardx, no call sign) gives a very bad transmitter (SSB) review. He claims lots of splatter and ineffective speech processing as well as high IMD products. I have yet to hear a K3 but no one else has noticed such problems? Vy 73, Bob WU5T/DJ0MBC -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 or K3
On Sat, 30 Jun 2007, John Tobias Croteau wrote: On 6/30/07, Mike Short [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The basic 10W rig is about 1400. More than the K2, though. What were you getting with the K2? Yup, that's my dilemma. K2 + KAF2 + KSB2 + KIO2 is $925 delivered. Builders want between $350 and $450 for assembly. According to my doctor and social security, I am disabled but I refuse to accept it and the handout of free assembly from these often unappreciated builders. I simply can't hold an iron steady any more to do it myself. Base K3/10 is looking like the better option at this point. Depends on where you are. I'd do it for free for the fun of it. There are those of us who do it for fun. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] who does the work in QRP?
On Wed, 27 Dec 2006, Tom Hall wrote: First of all, let me apologize right off the bat to any traumatized QRO station that might have been driven to excess drinking or required extra therapy as a result of a having a QSO with my QRP station. I envision a whole class of ham that was forced into early RF retirement caused by all the extra work involved in working low power stations. I only hope that their misery is offset by knowing the absolute joy of having worked them with low power equipment that I built with my own two hands. Just to make another point in this possibly pointless debate: all the antenna systems I've worked on are either kits or homebrew. Nobody will deliver an assembled tower or beam to your house (unless you live next door to AN Wireless, I bet, or can put up a nice monopole since you're richer than I'll ever be.) Towers aren't really kits, since you have to collect the parts from different vendors. Oh, and as far as really big amps go, they're almost all homebrew. All this is unlike a lot of QRP gear, which are KITS, not homebrew. Not that any of this one-upmanship gets us anywhere. Actually, if I get you off the computer on the air, that's a positive! -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] build time for KPA100
I found the KPA to go pretty quickly after I got the proper wheel for my Dremel. You're supposed to take the anodizing off the heat sink in specific places, and going at hard anodizing with a piece of emery cloth made me go nuts. The dremel attachment (a tiny wire brush) was great for taking the paint off of the case where grounding was needed as well. On Thu, 25 Jan 2007, Don Wilhelm wrote: J, You will likely find the KPA100 build time about 1/2 ot that required for the K2. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hey Folks, what's the approximate build time on a KPA100 compared to a K2? I just finished K2 #5945 and am antsy to get the KPA100 on the air ;) Also, wondering about the KDSP2 (looks quick) and KNB2 (also looks quick). Thanks, -J -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.10/651 - Release Date: 1/24/2007 6:48 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: Brain vs Hardware filters
On Thu, 3 May 2007, wayne burdick wrote: Mike Markowski wrote: I was thinking what it would be like to use the psk-cw decoder that Wayne has added to the k3 to do list. Imagine trying to copy this cut pasted snippet of a psk qso just now: Funny Al! :-) Well, I use a store bought dipole. It cost me about $40 on sale and seems to work well - I have it about 25' or 30' up. All those non alphanumerics... Maybe k3 operators will be spotted on psk by their use of mostly alphanumerics and small, cw friendly words! Could be worse :) If you wanted the full character set, you could always connect a small keyboard. We're working on that In the mean time, I'm thinking of making a USB keyboard - paddle interface. Why? Because. :) -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Musing on K3 Production and other things
On Wed, 9 May 2007, Bill Tippett wrote: At 02:03 PM 5/9/07, you wrote: Flextronics. *runs away, screaming* What does that mean? Ever heard of these companies? HP, Dell, Microsoft, Nokia, Motorola, ABB, Siemens...even Philips in your home country. http://www.flextronics.com/en/portals/0/presentations/q32003/sld016.htm I'm not sure if you're talking about the same Flextronics (I haven't done my research on this) but companies who work with large volume customers don't always play nice with small customers. That list doesn't sound like a hobbyist or a start-up would get any call backs. Sorry for going off topic. IHTFP -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tools / Manual
You mean the pry bar necessary to open the cheap ham wallet? :) On Fri, 25 May 2007, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: The same as required for the K2. 73, Eric --- Edward Dickinson III wrote: Hopefully the manual will include a list of necessary tools. Regards, Dick - KA5KKT/4 -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RE: K2 with USB anytime soon??
Most small-volume projects I've seen just use the FTDI USB to serial interface. Basically it moves the USB-to-serial interface into the project. Not real sure if it's hard to use, but check out the WinKey USB to see an example. I also have a PIC programmer that uses the same chip. The serial works on my Mac and my PC. In other words, I don't think it's that big a deal. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] I've done worse
On Sat, 1 Jul 2006, Bob Robertson wrote: Man, have I ever been there done that or been to that rodeo and rode that bull.. Heh. Just like all of us. I thought it was one of the more imaginitive spam I've seen and I deleted it. I guess I was wrong. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] plexiglass
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I gave John a bum steer I guess. Tap Plastics appears to be a west-coast company. They have a web site at: http://www.tapplastics.com/ They've been an invaluable resource for me for a variety of things, radio and non-radio related. Maybe someone knows of similar companies serving other areas of the country. Small hobby stores might have odd things like that. If you can imagine needing it for an RC car or airplane, they would have it. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Heil ProSet-K2 Headset
My suggestion is to not buy the K2 ProSet but to go for the deluxe one. I don't know what mods you'll have to make to your radio (the drive might be too low) but you won't have to make any mods to YOUR HEAD. I'm sure this depends on the person, but the K2 ProSet hurts my ears because the cups don't go all the way around the ears. Some people prefer the cups this way. I'd suggest finding friends with various ProSets and trying them out first. On Fri, 18 Aug 2006, Carter W. Craigie wrote: Before I go and lay out $147.00 for a Heil ProSet-K2 headset to go with my ancient K2 (S/N 678, Revision B, with software version 2.03d), can you helpful folks tell me about any pitfalls to installing this unit? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Let me build your K2
My problem is that I had him filtered and don't see any postings from him at all any longer, but when people reply to his messages without his address in the header, I see it again. I just get tired of the repeated messages, whether it's Eric (not the Elecraft Eric) talking about how CW is useless for traffic passing or the other guy offering to build things every single week. Rather than complaining (which I'm doing now, sorry) I just have my mail program delete every message from them. On Mon, 26 Sep 2005, Phil LaMarche wrote: OR THE ABILITY... These builders also help Elecraft sales. I wonder what the real problem is with this person? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Mic Problem?
Reminds me of when I was a repair tech and a guy brought in his *cough* Swan *cough* and he had swapped the shield and hot. Let me tell you, that doesn't make the microphone work any better. On Thu, 27 Oct 2005, Ken Bessler wrote: Don, Scott - et all - Thanks for the help - after doing a full reset re- alignment then disassembling the radio to check for GND @ mic socket pins 78 (ok), I re-assembled K2 #4913 and focused on the mic again. I had ASSumed the mic was OK because it worked FB in my Alinco 2m/440 mobile. Well.. After checking the mic again, I found the ground braid was bad. I cut 2 off the plug end of the cord and re-wired the plug. Works! I looked for a fault in the old cord end and found the braid was tattered broken right where the clamp was. Thanks again for the help! 73 de Ken KGØWX - Flying Pigs #-1055 Elecraft K2 #4913 - Kadiddlehoppers #11,808 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Keying Mod; Construction technique
The way I like to do it is to get an X-acto knife or another sharp knife and carefully score the trace in two spots. Use repeated shallow cuts. Heat up the little bit between the score marks with a soldering iron and it should lift off (and stick somewhere you don't want it to stick, but that's just my luck.) On Mon, 14 Nov 2005, Paul Clay wrote: I just purchased the KPA100 for my K2 (serial 3640), and in going over the instructions I see that the installation of the keying modification is highly recommended. I'm a little nervous about the part of the mod that requires the cutting of a circuit trace. What's the best way to perform this operation? (Kind of a shame to have to hack at my K2 this way, but you gotta do what you gotta do.) - Paul, N6LQ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] DMM advice?
Just a quick note here. I got a real cheap DMM for free wih my soldering iron with way too few digits to be of use. However, I bought a mini dmm when I was in Japan that is still my favorite when I can find it. Most of my measurements (and repairs, I've found) are things like, Is there power? or, Is there continuity? I bought a Metex on sale off of Radio Shack's web site for $20 that I really like. It's one that is rebadged for Radio Shack and is sold for $70 or so usually. Unfortunately, Radio Shack's web site doesn't seem to have as much neat stuff as it used to. Oh, and I have a Fluke as well. Turns out that most of my recent fooling around doesn't require something as nice. Just remember: a cheap DMM is so much nicer than having no DMM. On Sun, 22 Jan 2006, Don Wilhelm wrote: Louis, I picked up an ESCORT EDM-163 at Dayton several years ago (new) at a good price (about $65) for the features it offered - Handheld, Auto power off, auto-ranging with manual override, bargraph display as well as digital, current measurement to 10 Amps and down to 200 uA, diode forward voltage test, etc. This 3 1/2 digit meter has served me well. The settling time for the readings is not as fast as some more expensive meters but is adequate for me for general use. At my workbench I have a Kiethley instruments DMM that is faster, and when I get around to repairing it, I have a Fluke 8800 that is really fast and shows a lot more digits, but I can't carry those around just anywhere. You will find most DMMs are adequately accurate for ham use - even the $4.99 ones at Harbor Freight Tools, but they are rather slow about settling down to the real reading and they are manual range switched. The big difference in DMM performance is in the speed of response - make your own compromises on that issue after deciding which feaures you want and need - the price you pay will depend on your choices. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Have been lurking here for a while soaking up some wisdom in anticipation of receipt of my K2. As I lost all of my tools etc. in Katrina, I'm in the process of re-stocking, including a new digital multimeter. I've poked around on the net some, but the choices are truly bewildering. If anyone could offer a suggestion for a unit with a good price-performance ratio, I'd certainly appreciate it. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 v. K1
On Thu, 23 Feb 2006, Rick Dettinger wrote: Ron, AC7AC, said: The K2 does this by using a PLL that tunes in about 5 kHz steps and then varies the PLL reference oscillator's frequency to tune smoothly in between those steps. So the tuning has the true smooth feel and spectral purity . I say: When I tune my K2 past a signal, I can hear the steps. I also sometimes think I can hear steps when I tune my K1 thru a signal. I assumed that this is due to the nature of the multiturn pot. I think it is wire wound and that the wiper cuts the wire turns suddenly. It could also be due to jerky tuning , in spite of efforts to the contrary. It is very subtle, unlike the K2. Give me a smooth PTO with the K2 signal path. My long term idea is to build a stable analog VFO, using my Sierra band modules for premixing, to drive my K2.Rick - K7MW I thought you were going to talk about the problem that occurs when RFC15 is open. Then you can REALLY hear the steps. Mine went bloop bloop bloop at would lose and regain lock with each step. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [EMAIL PROTECTED] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500
Is this going to work with the K2? Yeah, I'm still one of those guys. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] AF-1 audio filter
I wasn't paying enough attention lately. Does anyone have a comparison of the audio filter in the AF-1 vs the one in the KAF2? I've wanted a low pass filter for a while, and after seeing a youtube video of the AF-1 I think that's what I'm looking for. On Wed, 1 Dec 2010, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Very nice execution Larry! I don't use an outboard audio amp with my AF1. The built-in LM386 amp in the AF1 drives a pair of outboard speakers for me with good volume. Do you have an unusually noisy environment? 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Hi, With all the chatter about the AF-1 audio filter lately I thought i would post how I mounted the AF1 and an audio amplifier in a small case to use with my K2. If anyone is interested you can find the pictures and comments on my web site at lawrenceingram.com. Click on the Ham Radio tab and then select the AF-1 article. 73, Larry Ingram AG4NN -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] AF-1 audio filter
I was looking for the KAF2 manual online to compare, but I didn't try very hard. I'll have to try again tonight. On Wed, 1 Dec 2010, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: I don't have a KAF2 Hisashi-san. Of course, they are both active filters but, from the comments I've noted here on the reflector, it sounds as if the AF1 is more aggressive than the KAF2. The AF1 is predominately a narrow bandpass filter but it also has a low-pass filter section to roll off the higher frequencies. You can see typical plots of the bandpass characteristic in the AF1 manual available on the Elecraft web site (look under Manuals and Downloads/Mini-Modules/AF1 Audio Filter). I can say the AF1 behaves very much like most active filters I've used with about all the selectivity possible (in BPF2 position) without serious ringing. The AF1 is also tunable from the front panel to match your audio frequency preference. Also, the high-frequency cutoff point of the low-pass filter is adjustable from the front panel and it has a front-panel audio gain control. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I wasn't paying enough attention lately. Does anyone have a comparison of the audio filter in the AF-1 vs the one in the KAF2? I've wanted a low pass filter for a while, and after seeing a youtube video of the AF-1 I think that's what I'm looking for. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Grounding Mat Chatter
Being in the semiconductor business and having sat by a anti-static crusader in a previous company, I can tell you you're completely wrong about long-term damage. However, if you want to treat your rig like a normal computer and get a new one in a couple of years, you'll be fine. On Sun, 28 Mar 2010, Bob Naumann wrote: Despite this fact, my K3 survived my totally inadequate use of the pink packing material and the silvery anti-static bags also. I think this whole issue is being blown way out of proportion. If these things were indeed that static sensitive, they'd be dropping like flies all over the world on a daily basis. Can we go back to talking about how to use these radios better and stop the arguing about minutiae? 73, Bob W5OV P.S. I installed my DVR board 2 weeks ago (without an approved static mat!) and it works perfectly alone and in conjunction with N1MM. -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Woolley (E.L) Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2010 2:35 AM To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Grounding Mat Chatter Some of the anti-static bags that Elecraft use are the pink ones. Those are non-conducting and get their anti-static properties by not generating static, rather than dissipating it. They would be useless as an anti-static mat. kf4by wrote: For a grounding mat I simply used the anti-static bag the RF board + was packaged in. I clipped my wrist strap to it until the radio grew to be a + chassis. At that time I clipped the wrist strap to the chassis but kept + the mat in place. All sub-assembly components were unwrapped on the + mat. Hence everything was the same potential. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] New K3/100 P3 Owner
Me too! I just put together K3 6393 P3 something-or-another, and I have a new opinion on all of it. Next time I may pay someone else to put together a $5000 radio, though it was an enjoyable ~10 hours for the radio (just one hour for the P3). And there's so much to learn to run the radio that I should have spent the 10H on that. Two days ago I spent an hour trying to figure out how to get my mic working (the bias setting was a note in the MH2 instruction sheet). Yesterday I figured out why no one was answering me on CW (you have to have VOX on if you're doing QSK or it doesn't transmit). I'm sure I'm going to come up with a lot more of those. So, I've had the radio for a week and I've made two contacts. At least one was a state I needed for WAS. On Thu, 12 Apr 2012, William Wallace wrote: Well the UPS truck finally stopped passing by my QTH today! He finally stopped today and gave me a well packaged box containing a K3/100 kit and a P3 kit. Oh happy day! K3/100 serial number 6396 and P3 serial number 2033. After opening the package I began the easy (?) task (so I thought) of inventorying all the pieces of the kits. I've got to tell you, all those little screws, nut, washers, etc looked a hell of a lot larger on my 27-inch iMac screen (PDF documentation) than they are in real life! I can see a big need for a small magnetic screwdriver in my future. I'll decide after I complete assembly of these two kits but I'm already leaning heavily toward factory assembly for my KPA-500 when the time comes -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KX3 shipping pace
On Mon, 23 Apr 2012, Jim Brown wrote: On 4/21/2012 10:59 AM, Dennis Haarsager wrote: I understand that there is a plan to pick up the pace, Dennis, Elecraft is a small company, and although they have been slowly adding people for several years as needed to support their growth, it takes time to work out the many details of putting a new product into production, and to building them more quickly and efficiently. A little bird told me that while KX3s are still not roaring off the line, things are coming along nicely. Relax, take a deep breath, and chill. Our KX3s will arrive when they're ready. Completely off-topic, but do you know how long I waited for an IC2AT? A synthesized handheld! For less than $300! I was in high school then. Waiting was torture. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Connectors
Just a quick question: On 4/25/12 7:09 PM, Alan Bloom wrote: Since two N or UHF adapters were used, I assume the loss per connector is half the total. The vertical scale was .1 dB/division, so I estimated the insertion loss to the nearest .01 dB or so: - Type N -- UHF -- FREQ (MHz) TOTAL LOSS PER CONNECTOR TOTAL LOSS PER CONNECTOR 1.8 0 dB 0 dB 0 dB 0 dB 30 0 00 0 What are the measurements below this? I'm not sure I can work any DX at those frequencies. I always tell my microwave experimenter buddies that if I can walk there and talk to the guy, I'll do that and not worry about my radio. :) 100 0 00 0 150 0 00.02 0.01 200 0 00.03 0.015 450 0 00.18 0.09 600 0 00.26 0.13 900 0 00.66 0.33 10000.05 0.0250.80.4 13000.10.05 0.86 0.43 16000.05 0.0250.50.25 20000.05 0.0250.02 0.01 Oh, and for technical content: even though you get an impedance mismatch, at the frequencies I care about the mismatch is so short that you don't make it far around the Smith chart (easier than doing the calculations). It doesn't really matter that a UHF connector isn't exactly 50 ohms when it's a wavelength, 1/10 the wavelength. So if a UHF connector is about an inch, 10 times that is about 10 inches, or about what I think is a nanosecond is (about a foot) which is 10^9Hz or about a gigahertz. So back-of-the-envelope, UHF connectors impedance mismatch only matters around a gigahertz. This would horrify my engineering profs because MIT back-of-the-envelope calculations would require Maxwell's equations. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] My K2/100 keeps resetting at high power
Just to follow up on this for anyone who might be searching the archives, the problem was traced to the power supply. It was undersized and wasn't what everyone remembered it as being, and after being pulled out from under the desk it turned out to be an Astron 20, rather than an Astron 35. On Mon, 2 Apr 2012, Don Wilhelm wrote: Hisashi, The current indicated by tapping the DISPLAY button is the current drawn by the base K2, and not the current into the KPA100. Your 2.5 amp current at 10 watts is normal, as is the drop in current as you go into the KPA100 is on stage because at low KPA100 power levels, the base K2 does not have to drive the KPA100 very hard. I would suggest starting with the DC Diode voltage measurements - use the values in the new KPA100 manual rather than your printed one - the chart in your old manual is no longer good. Make certain the HV bias supply voltage stays up to par during transmit. If you have a 'scope, observe the RF output carefully with an eye on the time-base of the 'scope so you can try to determine the frequency (even if relevant) of good transmission vs. the frequency when it begins to draw more current. If it is oscillating, determining the approximate frequency of oscillation can be helpful. This is not an easy thing to troubleshoot, I wish you luck. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2012 9:39 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: I just installed the KPA100UPKT about a month ago. Just to be clear, as I turn up the power, the internal metering shows 1.5A while the external metering shows the current increasing as the power increases. I'll check the voltages around the diodes and the HV bias supply to begin with. Thanks for the pointers. On Mon, 2 Apr 2012, Don Wilhelm wrote: Hisashi, OK, so that sounds like the KPA100 may be oscillating. First things to check are the diodes in the T/R switch, the high voltage bias supply (check during transmit too) and the operation of Q6 and Q7. Is this the newer KPA100 design with blue toroid cores at L16 and RFC1? If not, you will want to install KPA100UPKT, it was designed to combat an oscillation tendency. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2012 8:19 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: After getting the suggestions from Eric and you, I looked at the metering I have already. I don't think it's the SWR bridge because the power reading matches the wattmeter on my MFJ-1788. It steadily increases and looks about the same as what the K2 shows. However, the voltage/current meter I get to from the DISPLAY button is odd. As I turn up the power before the KPA100 kicks in, I get an increasing current up to 2.5. Then the current reading drops to 1.5 and stays there. The metering of my power supply shows increasing current and everything resets itself when it gets ~15-20A. Time to look for the schematics, but any suggestions would be appreciated. On Mon, 2 Apr 2012, Don Wilhelm wrote: Hisashi, If by reset you mean the power turns off, you are most likely seeing the internal resettable fuse trip. Normally you would see a HiCur message too. Usual causes for that behavior are either that the KPA100 wattmeter diodes have been damaged or you have a damaged PA transistor in the base K2. Check the actual output power -- Connect an external wattmeter between the KPA100 and a dummy load then set the K2 power knob to about 30 watts. set to CW and hold the key down long enough to read the external wattmeter. If it shows full power output (greater than 100 watts), you have a problem with the wattmeter in the KPA100 - most likely bad diodes at D16 and D17. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/2/2012 11:37 AM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: OK, it's S/N 4355 with all the latest mods and it used to just reset when I got on 15M phone. Now it's resetting on 30M CW while I'm trying to work DX so it's bugging me. :) Besides the standard checking for 10-year-old cold solder joints, is there anything else to check right away? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Radio Displays
On Wed, 9 May 2012, Tony Estep wrote: On Wed, May 9, 2012 at 2:47 PM, dm...@nexicom.net wrote: ...polarized sunglasses are far better than any tinted glasses... Of course. The suggestion to use non-polarized was probably not serious. Still, they do make a lot of screens go black: the local ATM and my car radio are two examples. Back when I worked in Japan, we'd laugh at how the cheap Taiwanese LCDs got it wrong and put their polarizers horizontal so you couldn't see things with good (polarized) sun glasses. Sounds like more people don't know what they're doing with their LCDs than before. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Portable Antennas (mag loop)
It was presented at a QRP conference, after all (and I'm more of a QRO proponent) so I imagine the dinky capacitor didn't worry them too much. My MFJ loop is working pretty darn well so far. I'm sure I'll have to take it down and fix it eventually, but I have 54 countries worked this year since I put it up in March. On Thu, 10 May 2012, David Cutter wrote: I agree about the statement re height above ground which needed qualifiying a little particularly as they then made measurements somewhat less than that. The main thrust is about losses and the more removed from ground and nearby objects the less the loss due to the very high intensity of the electric field. Not sure if they specified a maximum power handling and I didn't see anything about inter-plate insulation so it was just dry air - (ie all the water is frozen on the ground). That probably also means the ground was not as conductive and lossy as it might be in the summer when the electrolytes are free to move (my guesswork). Wouldn't work too well in our wet UK climate! Great piece of analysis and engineering, deceptively simple. David G3UNA On 10/05/2012 11:11, Arthur Burke wrote: I bookmarked the site - thank you. However, I didn't get very far the first time when I saw the comment must be 1/2 wavelength above the ground... Still would like to go back and review the entire article. Brings back a humorous dialog from years ago. One ham expressed the desire to build a good, but short, 40 meter beam... It was suggested he shorten the beam until it was ultimately a 50-ohm resistor of sufficient girth to accept reasonable power levels. Chuckles followed. Then, someone who apparently didn't pick up on the tongue-in-cheek, frowned and noted that the 50-ohm resistor would work even better if it was at least a couple wavelengths in the air. Art - N4PJ On Thu, May 10, 2012 at 7:30 AM, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com mailto:d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote: It will be quiet on receive and quiet on transmit, however much power you put into it, until it melts, that is. I'd love to know where he gets his efficiency figures - perhaps you can ask him. Putting steel washers at each aluminium joint turned me off completely along with the dinky receiving capacitor. I'm quite taken by the Midnight Loop from N2APB and N2CX, mainly because I built something similar 20 years ago, only a lot bigger! See http://www.midnightdesignsolutions.com/MidnightLoop/Midnight%20Loop%20%28Mar%2011a%29.pdf David G3UNA On 10/05/2012 07:55, Stephen Prior wrote: Hi Fred I have been very tempted by the Alex-loop, but in the meantime have just bought one of G4TPH's loops which I shall put through its paces when the weather improves! I should imagine that the insensitivity to electric fields in the near field would be an advantage in electrically noisy environments. Even a campsite can be very noisy with the inverters from RVs and the like spewing out rf everywhere. I'm spoilt for choice of antennas to play with once the KX3 arrives! 73 Stephen G4SJP On Wednesday, 9 May 2012, Fred Jensen wrote: I haven't been following this thread closely but has anyone mentioned a small magnetic loop like the Alex-Loop? I've got a good SOTA friend who uses one and loves it. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012 - www.cqp.org http://www.cqp.org/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net http://www.qsl.net/ Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] N8BX Knobs. Another FS Set
Hey, can I ask what these knobs are? I'm pretty new to the K3 (thought my K2 would be all I ever needed but boy was I wrong). :) On Sat, 26 May 2012, Bob wrote: Well Phil sold his pretty quickly so I'll put mine up with the same offer. Original style set for the K3. $100 shipped. As new condition. Why? I liked the feel of the originals but upon seeing the new version had a nostalgia attack. Reminded me of the Heath SB series I had and the Collins S line I wanted. 73, Bob K2TK ex KN2TKR (1956) K2TKR Have been sold.Thank you! Phil Philip LaMarche __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Popular power supply query
You can rebuild Astron supplies and there's even an article and circuit boards available. The article: http://www.bwcelectronics.com/articles/WP20A190.PDF The circuit board: http://www.farcircuits.net search for PS-15D-122 $5 and don't forget to add $5.50 for shipping. On Mon, 11 Jun 2012, Jack Berry wrote: Bill, Just added an Astron VS-35M to the shack after nearly 20 years with a RS-35m which is still working like new. I went with the variable supply so I could dial up the output voltage to meet charge requirements for a 12V gel cell. I wouldn't go to any switchers for fixed service if I could avoid it. The Astron linear is hard to beat - simple, quiet (in db's and rf) and heavy. Good switchers are fine I'm sure but when I looked around online I saw a lot more variability on opinions and experiences with switchers. Astron is highest rated overall and reasonably priced for a 20+ year service life. 73, Jack - WE5ST From: Bill b...@w2blc.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Mon, June 11, 2012 6:38:34 PM Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Popular power supply query Time has come to purchase a new power supply - the 33 year old Astron has passed on. What are the popular and reliable supplies being used these days? If there are some to seriously stay away from, please so state. Thanks, Bill W2BLC -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 just goes off - SOLVED
What does the maritime industry use? Anyone work at Boeing who can tell me why they (I think) crimp instead of solder? I thought I remembered that it's because crimps are stronger over the long-term under vibration. I could be making it all up. I'm just curious if there's a reason or if people are just talking for the sake of talking. I've had lots more solder joints fail than crimps, but I've had crimps fail too. On Sun, 24 Jun 2012, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Does anyone have actual measurements to indicate that one is *significantly* better than the other? Solder may not be as good a conductor as copper, but we're talking about a fraction of a millimeter of solder covering the entire mating surface of the cable and connector through which the current flows. IMX working on electronic systems we chose crimping over solder because crimping is faster than soldering. Even so, I have found that it is as easy to do a bad crimp job as it is to do a bad soldering job. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- A properly done crimp is better electrically than solder. For one thing, solder is not a very good conductor. A proper crimp is actually a weld joining the wire to the terminal. Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Firmware final?
I'm at work, and I don't want to forget, so let me ask this: Do you post an announcement for the release? Last time I think I completely missed it and was surprised when my K3 updated (and I've only had it for a few months!) On Thu, 28 Jun 2012, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote: The beta test of 4.51 was successful and it will be changed to final on the web site shortly. Feel free to download the zipped beta files and install them. The final version is exactly the same. 73, Eric. WA6HHQ www.elecraft.com _..._ On Jun 26, 2012, at 3:24 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Wolfgang, If by final you are referring to the number 4.51 - that number is final right now - if there are any changes made, the number will be changed. If the beta test is successful, that same version will be declared release level - but the code3 will be unchanged. So, bottom line, if you are having success with 4.51, continue to use it. 73, Don W3FPR On 6/26/2012 3:30 AM, Wolfgang -DK9VZ- wrote: Hi current beta firmware 4.51 did show great improvements in WPX CW contest. When will it be final? or is there any issue that will be added/changed in the final version? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] 4.48 vs 4.51 CW Decode
On Fri, 29 Jun 2012, W5RDW wrote: When I first installed 4.51, I had to fiddle around with a few adjustments for the decode function to work as before, primarily adjusting THR lower. It seemed 4.48 liked a THR of 7, but now 4.51 seems to like a THR of 3. I have the AGC THC at 10 or so. Also, I always use the SPOT function to get the received signal in the proper place to decode. Does anyone have any other pointers? I never have been able to get the decoder to do much for me, even during a contest. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 - panadapter or subreceiver
I'd agree. I never had either in the past and now I'm constantly looking at the P3 and I do use the sub-receiver but don't turn it on every time I'm on. The panadapter tells me when the band is dead, when my antenna is tuned properly (I have a magnetic loop that needs to be tuned all the time), when other stations are on, and also if the *%# power line arcing is active on the pole outside my house (it's scheduled to be fixed, but it's been going on for months). I'm sure I could go back to doing things the old way, but it's like turning off DX spotting: why would I want to? On Mon, 2 Jul 2012, Mike K2MK wrote: Hi Robert, I have the sub RX and the P3 and I would not want to be without either, however, if I were trying to save money on an initial purchase I would buy the P3. The P3 is easy to use and is useful at all times under all conditions. The large screen SVGA option which I also have is nice but certainly not mandatory. The P3 in combination with the existing tools on the K3 will make working split very rewarding. The sub RX is wonderful but I can go weeks without every turning it on. But when needed it is a superb tool. However, working a split DX station where there are thousands of callers is still tedious. The sub RX in combination with the P3 is terrific. I would also say that a P3 is much more useful in a contest than a sub RX. I've operated many CW contests where I never turn on the sub RX but use the P3 extensively. However, if you have the opportunity to add a low noise receive antenna for the low bands then the sub RX can also be used for diversity reception. This is where you can listen to your transmit antenna in one ear and your receive antenna in the other ear. For some this is a powerful tool for weak signal work. RobertG wrote I have never used either a panadapter or a sub-receiver, so I'm a newbie in this area. I use CW almost exclusively, and I chase DX and enter contests [less so in the past, more in the future]. I have a small pistol station with no allusions of being a band master. Question: which of these two options might I find more useful for my station and operating preferences? Yes, I can have them both in my K3, but if I had to choose, which one would seem preferable? Thanks for all opinions. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT mfj 1786 loop antenna
I have an MFJ-1788 Loop as well. I liked it pretty well. Got very close to the end of my WAS with it, though I started that in 1977. I also had my first ever JA contact on 40M with it. I put it on my garage roof with a Radio Shack rotator and it worked pretty darn well. I only replaced it because I missed 10M. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [P3 SVGA] Has anyone seen garbage in the waterfall display?
I just got my P3 SVGA card and it's just showing video noise in the waterfall. I reloaded the firmware just to see if that would fix things, and it did not. I'm not sure if you can attach things to the posts on here, so a picture of the display is at: http://www.i8u.org/~htodd/badwaterfall.jpg Any help would be appreciated. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [P3 SVGA] Has anyone seen garbage in the waterfall display?
Aha. Things look quite different on both monitors, and as George Danner pointed out, SVGA bias can be turned down to amke the display on the SVGA look the same as on the internal monitor. Default is 9.9, I think, and I turned it down to 1.2 at his suggestion. Of course, my REF LVL needed adjusting as well. Thanks for the help. On Sat, 24 Aug 2013, Mike K2MK wrote: Hi Hisashi, From the photo is looks like you have your REF LVL set too high. The base signal (noise level) should be slightly below the dividing line between the upper display and the waterfall. Press the REF LVL button and turn the SELECT knob counterclockwise until the noise level just disappears. The REF LVL will need to be changed from band to band but the P3 remembers the setting on each band. Of course the level also changes with atmospheric conditions, time of day, antenna direction, etc.. 73, Mike K2MK Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote I just got my P3 SVGA card and it's just showing video noise in the waterfall. I reloaded the firmware just to see if that would fix things, and it did not. I'm not sure if you can attach things to the posts on here, so a picture of the display is at: http://www.i8u.org/~htodd/badwaterfall.jpg Any help would be appreciated. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - htodd@ BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-SVGA-Has-anyone-seen-garbage-in-the-waterfall-display-tp7578217p7578228.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] P3 SVGA RTTY decode question
I was copying RTTY on my P3 SVGA and I found that it was dropping a lot of characters. I finally figured out how to decode directly on the K3 and it wasn't dropping characters at all. Is there something I have set up incorrectly? Thanks. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA RTTY decode question
Once again, I wonder if I'm being clear. THE TEXT ON THE P3 SVGA IS NOT THE SAME AS ON THE K3. I'm not sure what the issue is. On Tue, 27 Aug 2013, Mike K2MK wrote: Hi Hisashi, The P3/SVGA board is acting as a terminal. It does not do any decoding. It just displays the decoding done by the K3. If you're missing characters you may want to adjust the threshold on the K3. See the decode tips in the K3 manual on page 33. 73, Mike K2MK Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote I was copying RTTY on my P3 SVGA and I found that it was dropping a lot of characters. I finally figured out how to decode directly on the K3 and it wasn't dropping characters at all. Is there something I have set up incorrectly? Thanks. Hisashi T Fujinaka -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-SVGA-RTTY-decode-question-tp7578289p7578292.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA RTTY decode question
Sorry, I guess my frustration is with the limited documentation on the P3 SVGA. Twice I thought it was defective but it wasn't. So far I've found that the SVGA bias needs to be turned way down from the default of 9.9 to 1.2-1.5, and that I'm losing simple serial data from the K3 to the P3 SVGA on receive. I think this is a serial line problem and Gary from Elecraft suggests turning down the rate from 38400. Also, the USB keyboard I have (a Cooler Master I just got) doesn't appear to work and I'm sure it's another problem on my side. Everything else has been. On Tue, 27 Aug 2013, Richard Fjeld wrote: Paul, and others, I think Hisashi is describing using RTTY what I have been talking about using CW with a keyboard when I said that some characters (not elements of the characters) are being lost during transmission. They show on the monitor, but not on the P3 and are not being sent. At this point, I'm wondering if Hisashi is seeing this while transmitting? or does he see it during receive? If during receive, that would be a new problem. Dick, n0ce Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2013 08:46:47 -0700 From: ht...@twofifty.com To: k...@comcast.net CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA RTTY decode question Once again, I wonder if I'm being clear. THE TEXT ON THE P3 SVGA IS NOT THE SAME AS ON THE K3. I'm not sure what the issue is. On Tue, 27 Aug 2013, Mike K2MK wrote: Hi Hisashi, The P3/SVGA board is acting as a terminal. It does not do any decoding. It just displays the decoding done by the K3. If you're missing characters you may want to adjust the threshold on the K3. See the decode tips in the K3 manual on page 33. 73, Mike K2MK Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote I was copying RTTY on my P3 SVGA and I found that it was dropping a lot of characters. I finally figured out how to decode directly on the K3 and it wasn't dropping characters at all. Is there something I have set up incorrectly? Thanks. Hisashi T Fujinaka -- -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA RTTY decode question
My problem is during receive. I wonder if there's more problems on the serial line than I thought. When I have some time I'm going to put a 'scope on the serial lines to see if there's anything odd to see. On Tue, 27 Aug 2013, Richard Fjeld wrote: Paul, I think Hisashi is describing while using RTTY what I have been talking about while using CW with a keyboard when I said that some characters (not elements of the characters) are being lost during transmission. They show on the monitor, but not on the K3 and are not being sent. (I'm saying this for Hisashi's benefit so that we are in sync.) Hisashi, at this point, I'm wondering if you are seeing this while transmitting as I do? or do you see it during receive? If during receive, that would be a new problem. Dick, n0ce -Original Message- From: Hisashi T Fujinaka Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 9:06 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] P3 SVGA RTTY decode question I was copying RTTY on my P3 SVGA and I found that it was dropping a lot of characters. I finally figured out how to decode directly on the K3 and it wasn't dropping characters at all. Is there something I have set up incorrectly? Thanks. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies
I have an Astron 35A and was fishing around for details and found a guy who talked about replacing the circuit board. I'm not sure it's necessary, but here's the link: http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/pdf/w5bwc-rs35-rebuild.pdf On Thu, 17 Oct 2013, Gary, W7TEA wrote: I have had the board off a couple of times to reseat and then to change out the voltage reg IC and to adjust the trimmer. I have done a visual inspection but will check that all hardware is securely fastened. May have to invest in another assembled board if nothing else works. Thank you all for the ideas. Gary W7TEA On Oct 17, 2013, at 12:38 PM, Vic K2VCO-2 [via Elecraft] ml-node+s365791n7579977...@n2.nabble.com wrote: Sometimes the screws holding the board to the capacitors loosen up after a few years. On 10/17/2013 7:14 AM, Gary, W7TEA wrote: Good morning Don. The PS suddenly died on me at our beach house in Long Beach. I had no equipment there and first assumed it was my K3. Brought the rig home to Portland and it worked fine. So, it was the supply, an Astron RS35A--couple years old. Anyway, checked the fuse, cleaned contacts etc and it was .8v at the terminals. . So, I replaced the voltage IC which I got from Mouser and used Deoxit on the the voltage adjustment pot. I have another RS35A which has run fine for over 30 years. I don't feel comfortable playing around inside a live supply but will take the cover off and do another visual inspection while unplugged. It has to be something simple I would think. thanks Don, Gary W7TEA On Oct 17, 2013, at 5:42 AM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] [hidden email] wrote: You did not show any of the prior information (one of the problems with posts from Nabble), so I can only guess that you are working with a power supply problem. A situation like that is often caused by something loose in the negative side of the supply, something that is frequently overlooked. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/17/2013 1:54 AM, Gary, W7TEA wrote: Well, traded out the voltage regulator IC and no joy. Then I tried Deoxit on the adjustment pot, tweaked it a bit and measured voltage at 13.8vdc! Great! Turned it off and on, tried it again, and was ready start bragging to the XYL---but it was back to .8v. Didn't see any suspect components while I had it open. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579977.html To unsubscribe from K3 suddenly dies, click here. NAML - 73, Gary W7TEA K3 #1001, #5763 -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579979.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies
Keep in mind that the article I sent you is a complete refurb that even replaces the pass transistors. I think googling around said the most likely culprit is a bad LM723, but I didn't look too hard since my Astron was working fine before I decided it made a nice footrest and bought a switching power supply. :) On Thu, 17 Oct 2013, Gary, W7TEA wrote: Thank you Hisashi! I called Astron and they quoted $26US including shipping. Gary On Oct 17, 2013, at 2:26 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka [via Elecraft] ml-node+s365791n757998...@n2.nabble.com wrote: I have an Astron 35A and was fishing around for details and found a guy who talked about replacing the circuit board. I'm not sure it's necessary, but here's the link: http://www.repeater-builder.com/astron/pdf/w5bwc-rs35-rebuild.pdf On Thu, 17 Oct 2013, Gary, W7TEA wrote: I have had the board off a couple of times to reseat and then to change out the voltage reg IC and to adjust the trimmer. I have done a visual inspection but will check that all hardware is securely fastened. May have to invest in another assembled board if nothing else works. Thank you all for the ideas. Gary W7TEA On Oct 17, 2013, at 12:38 PM, Vic K2VCO-2 [via Elecraft] [hidden email] wrote: Sometimes the screws holding the board to the capacitors loosen up after a few years. On 10/17/2013 7:14 AM, Gary, W7TEA wrote: Good morning Don. The PS suddenly died on me at our beach house in Long Beach. I had no equipment there and first assumed it was my K3. Brought the rig home to Portland and it worked fine. So, it was the supply, an Astron RS35A--couple years old. Anyway, checked the fuse, cleaned contacts etc and it was .8v at the terminals. . So, I replaced the voltage IC which I got from Mouser and used Deoxit on the the voltage adjustment pot. I have another RS35A which has run fine for over 30 years. I don't feel comfortable playing around inside a live supply but will take the cover off and do another visual inspection while unplugged. It has to be something simple I would think. thanks Don, Gary W7TEA On Oct 17, 2013, at 5:42 AM, Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft] [hidden email] wrote: You did not show any of the prior information (one of the problems with posts from Nabble), so I can only guess that you are working with a power supply problem. A situation like that is often caused by something loose in the negative side of the supply, something that is frequently overlooked. 73, Don W3FPR On 10/17/2013 1:54 AM, Gary, W7TEA wrote: Well, traded out the voltage regulator IC and no joy. Then I tried Deoxit on the adjustment pot, tweaked it a bit and measured voltage at 13.8vdc! Great! Turned it off and on, tried it again, and was ready start bragging to the XYL---but it was back to .8v. Didn't see any suspect components while I had it open. -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579977.html To unsubscribe from K3 suddenly dies, click here. NAML - 73, Gary W7TEA K3 #1001, #5763 -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579979.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - [hidden email] BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion below: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579982.html To unsubscribe from K3 suddenly dies, click here. NAML - 73, Gary W7TEA K3 #1001, #5763 -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579983.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net
Re: [Elecraft] Reliable DC Power Supply for K3/P3
The only thing that bit me: Astron XX does not mean XX amps. I have an Astron 25M and I was trying to figure out why my K2/100 would power off on 15M at 100W when I finally figured out that that the Astron 25 is a 20 amp power supply and my K2 needed a bit more. It would even fold back the voltage. After more debugging (and lots of bypass caps chokes and dummy loads and a brand new oscilloscope) and I found that RF in the shack could be part of the problem but just swapping to an Astron 35M was my fix. Unfortunately, the Astron puts out a lot of heat, and my shack happens to be in a room that gets pretty warm even with the A/C on. So I changed to a 25A switching power supply which unfortunately has a fan. Now the tradeoff is heat vs. fan. On Tue, 19 Nov 2013, Don Wilhelm wrote: Bob, The old reliable Astron 35 is a very good linear supply - I do not have the metered version, and mine sits quietly on the floor under the desk, no need to look at meters there. I also have an Astron SS30 which does a great job at the workbench. Again no need for meters, and even though a switcher, I have not found any switching noise created in the ham bands. As backups, I have an MFJ 25 amp switching supply and an Alinco 340M linear - the advantages of those supplies is that the output voltage is front panel adjustable. No noticeable noise from the switcher and the current is more than sufficient for the K3/100. If you have other accessories, you might want to look at a 35 amp supply, but 20 or 25 amps is all that is needed for the K3. 73, Don W3FPR On 11/19/2013 9:35 AM, Robert Nobis wrote: I m about ready to place an order for a K3 and P3, and wonder if there are recommendations on a reliable DC power supply for the Elecraft 100-W transceiver. 73, Bob - N7RJN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Reliable DC Power Supply for K3/P3
As far as I know, they are NOT rated Intermittent COMMERICIAL Service. They're rated Intermittent COMMUNICATIONS Service, which is something they made up. It's way lower than you think. On Tue, 19 Nov 2013, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Astrons are rated ICS (Intermittent Commercial Service). Old timers in the Ham hobby will remember that as ICAS (Intermittent Commercial and Amateur Service). For example, the Astron spec sheet for the Astron 20 will show a continuous current rating of 16 amps and an ICAS rating of 20 amps. One can demand 20 amps peak for SSB or even CW operation and even normal high-duty-cycle operation with a few minutes at 20 amps and then a few minutes in standby. But, beyond that, it's likely to overheat and shut down to protect itself. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Hisashi T Fujinaka Sent: Tuesday, November 19, 2013 8:34 AM To: Robert Nobis Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reliable DC Power Supply for K3/P3 The only thing that bit me: Astron XX does not mean XX amps. I have an Astron 25M and I was trying to figure out why my K2/100 would power off on 15M at 100W when I finally figured out that that the Astron 25 is a 20 amp power supply and my K2 needed a bit more. It would even fold back the voltage. After more debugging (and lots of bypass caps chokes and dummy loads and a brand new oscilloscope) and I found that RF in the shack could be part of the problem but just swapping to an Astron 35M was my fix. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Why I won't purchase K3
That's one of the main reasons I don't have one yet. That and the low sunspot cycle, and taking down my quad off of the roof. :) -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Maxwell's Equations.
FM. The second word in FM is magic, btw. On Sun, 6 Mar 2011, Wayne Burdick wrote: Interesting discussion. Gives me an idea. We'll soon be announcing a very cool new test instrument (it's the same size as our T1 antenna tuner but not related to it in any way). We'll give one of these to whoever can suggest, by next Thursday, the most plausible alternative to 11-dimensional supersymmetry as the working basis for a unified field theory. You may assume a negative cosmological constant and cannot impose R-parity. If the Higgs boson is discovered before the new product announcement, we'll throw in a spare 9-V battery. 73.14159..., Wayne N6KR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3, Prolific USB driver and OS X 10.7
On Fri, 27 Jan 2012, Rem . wrote: I searched the Nabble archives for an answer to this and couldn't find one. After a long time since an update I connected the USB to serial cable today and launched the K3 Utility. I double checked and I have the latest version of that. The K3 Utility didn't recognize the K3. I tried numerous times and the only thing that changed since the last update is that I've gone from OS Snow Leopard to the new version OS Lion 10.7. Has anyone else had any problems? I couldn't see what version of the Prolific driver I was running so I downloaded the one on the Elecraft website. The instructions with the downloaded driver say to go into Terminal and then the library to delete the old version. In Terminal I wasn't able to get it to find that file... Says I need to be in Root. Following info found online, that didn't help. Any suggestions? You do know that there are counterfeit Prolific chips and the latest drivers from Prolific disable them. I've had no end of trouble with those lately and I finally bought TrippLite/Keyspan USB-to-serial cables. You don't say where you got the cable you're talking about, but if they have translucent blue plastic, there's a good chance it's a counterfeit chip according to what I've seen on the intarwebs. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] serial to USB
The biggest problem I've seen lately is there were counterfeit Prolific chips found and the latest drivers from Prolific disable the counterfeit chips (for good reasons). They both work OK if you have the proper drivers. On Sat, 11 Feb 2012, roncasa wrote: It really begs the question for some us who do not understand or are not computer geeks: what IS the difference between FTDI and Prolific. We understand each one behaving (responding) differently with software to radio control, and that some don't work at all, I do not understand what makes one preferred over the other (such as elecraft serial/usb adaptor cable) Prolific also works with most stuff too. For example, are they platform related? (micr0$oft) Is this akin to ordinary DVD player as opposed to a blue ray player that can play both?? -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Flashing F mode indicator
So it's a secret? On Tue, 28 Feb 2012, Wayne Burdick wrote: Page 84 explains what all of the flashing annunciators mean. Unfortunately (I just discovered), the flashing 'F' is not covered in this list. Wayne On Feb 28, 2012, at 12:01 PM, Chris Kimball wrote: Is there a table available of special signals from various areas of the K2 screen, particularly when all the options are present? I know some of them, but get panicked when a seemingly strange one pops up. In this case, I wasn't operating, just checking SWRs with a new balun. Chris -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Need Antenna Tuning Help
On Thu, 8 Mar 2012, Tony Estep wrote: On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 10:54 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote: I wouldn't have mentioned it Jim, except Tony's funny comment muddied the water... === Yeah, there's always some smart-aleck to confuse the issue. But seriously, I don't see why MFJ couldn't put a minus sign or something on the display. My cheapo Autek gadget ($100 on ebay) tells you series and parallel reactance with sign, equivalent C, equivalent L, phase angle, and some other stuff as well as SWR. I'm not an MFJ-basher; I have been happy with all the MFJ stuff I have. But in this case IMHO they left out some worthwhile functionality. Look at the different analyzer comparisons and you'll notice that a lot of them do NOT have the sign of the reactance. My buddy bought the Autek back in the day because of that reason and it was several hundred dollars. I just bought a Rig Expert for the same sort of reasons. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OCF antennas
So let me say one thing I know about antennas: PUT SOMETHING UP AND GET ON THE AIR. You can get perfect up, and you can get OK up. You an argue about what works better and what works worse. But when the bands are open, you might be able to work DX with a cantenna under your desk. (I've heard stories.) I used an untuned dipole with a LDG tuner to work my first (and only) DXCC back in the last sunspot cycle. So what I'm saying is put something up FIRST and then start the arguing, I mean, discussion. (But then again there are all sorts of aspects to the hobby and if you're here to argue you can if you want.) -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OCF antennas
I went to MIT. I can analyze the crap out of this if I feel like it. Or I can work DX and ragchew. Like I said, you use the hobby for what you want and I'm a proponent of the proverb that says, Perfect is the enemy of the good. On Sat, 10 Mar 2012, David Gilbert wrote: Ham radio being a knowledge-based hobby, some people prefer to understand what they're doing. Apparently others don't seem to care. Dave AB7E On 3/9/2012 9:49 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: So let me say one thing I know about antennas: PUT SOMETHING UP AND GET ON THE AIR. You can get perfect up, and you can get OK up. You an argue about what works better and what works worse. But when the bands are open, you might be able to work DX with a cantenna under your desk. (I've heard stories.) I used an untuned dipole with a LDG tuner to work my first (and only) DXCC back in the last sunspot cycle. So what I'm saying is put something up FIRST and then start the arguing, I mean, discussion. (But then again there are all sorts of aspects to the hobby and if you're here to argue you can if you want.) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OCF antennas
On Sat, 10 Mar 2012, Jim Brown wrote: And there is NO MAGIC to parallel wire feedline I think the advantage (not magic) is that you get less loss in ladder line than you do through the dielectric of coax. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2: KDSP2 - Should I or Shouldn't I?
I bought one used a few years ago and never installed it until I dug my radio out of a box and put an antennna back up. I played with them in the past and thought they made things sound funny. However, I also got a new heat pump that puts all sorts of funny noises on 15M. I switched on the DSP and it shoved the funny noises into the noise floor which is higher, but much easier to listen to than the goofy motor noises. But I think someone else pointed out that you don't want to use it for digital modes. On Sat, 10 Mar 2012, Jon Perelstein wrote: The area I live in has gotten much noisier (QRN) over the past few years and it's killing me. I know that there are stations I want out there -- I can kinda sorta hear them but I can't hear them over the noise well enough to have a QSO. As much as possible I've checked everything in the house and the local telephone poles and one of my neighbors was even kind enough to replace the circulator motor in his Koi pond, but the noise level is still pretty bad. I mostly operate digital modes on 80-10 (PSK, RTTY, Olivia, etc.) with a fair amount of CW and the occasion sideband QSO. My K2 does not have the KDSP2 (or the KAF2) and the noise level drives me nuts. My FT-897 does have DSP, and the problem isn't as bad as on the K2, but the effectiveness of the 897's DSP seems limited, especially on digital modes. Is it worth building a KDSP2 or not? Those of you who have one what do you think of it. I've listened to the sample on the KDSP2 page ( http://www.elecraft.com/KDSP2/kdsp2.htm) and it sounds impressive, but what are people finding in real life?Recommendations? Thumbs up or thumbs down? Thanks and 73s Jon WB2RYV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OCF antennas
On Sat, 10 Mar 2012, Jim Brown wrote: On 3/10/2012 5:14 PM, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote: I think the advantage (not magic) is that you get less loss in ladder line than you do through the dielectric of coax. FALSE! For all practical purposes, there is NO dielectric loss in coax below about 500 MHz, where it just BEGINS to show up. Virtually all the loss in any dry transmission line at HF and VHF is due to simple Ohm's Law in the copper (including the increase in resistance due to skin effect). It's all I squared R loss. The advantage of open wire line is solely the result of their higher IMPEDANCE, which means that for a given power level, the CURRENT is much less. For the same reason, 75 ohm coax has a bit less loss than 50 ohm coax for the same conductor size. So-called WINDOW line loses this advantage when it gets wet, because then it DOES have dielectric loss. BTW -- when you're analyzing these things, you must consider the heat produced in a common mode choke when the antenna has a lot of imbalance. An off-center fed antenna has a LOT of imbalance. I think you're wrong here. The high SWRs generated along the feedline are extremely high voltages (with low currents) and there is significant loss in the dielectric of the coax. The reason that ladder line is better is because of the air in the dielectric. The best is the old school ladder line with the ceramic insulators. There is very little I squared R loss because there is very low current. That's why people see better performance with ladder line and think it's magic. -- Hisashi T Fujinaka - ht...@twofifty.com BSEE(6/86) + BSChem(3/95) + BAEnglish(8/95) + MSCS(8/03) + $2.50 = latte __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
