date:20200604

Thanks.  The example is clear.   All that is needed s a user-space app that
can talk to a user any way it wants.  Seems the details are all abstracted
away in hal.component
I can think of a bunch of maybe useful experiments to try.

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 2:34 PM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 21:35, Chris Albertson 
> wrote:
>
> I think the best physical interface from a handheld device to the computer
> > is USB.Is there a way to get data from USB to HAL?
>
> https://emergent.unpythonic.net/01198594294
>

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Cool new take on a foam cutter:

2020-06-04 Thread Stuart Stevenson

I think LinuxCNC would be able to easily drive the shown machine. I believe
it will be VERY difficult to find a CAM system capable of creating the
gcode program to describe the path.

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 12:54 PM Leonardo Marsaglia 
wrote:

> >
> > Have plenty of wood on other side of the wall in my workshop intended for
> > heating.
> >
>
> Next time I'll take a look at your place then lol. :)
>
> I guess you are in northern Europe is that right?
>
> El mié., 3 jun. 2020 a las 12:04, N ()
> escribió:
>
> > > Nice machine! Looks like a little bit of a challenge to program it.
> > >
> > > The funny thing is that I struggled and failed trying to cut some foam
> to
> > > make a simple aluminum casting model last weekend. I ended up doing it
> in
> > > wood.
> >
> > Have plenty of wood on other side of the wall in my workshop intended for
> > heating.
> >
> >
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Design for the materials and process

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 5:03 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

>
> Thats cute. But that would likely need to be made on a resin printer as
> this one from what I've seen so far, simply cannot do that fine a
> detail.
>

My "cut" on this would work because the glue joint is hidden inside, Andy's
is smart but does place the glued joint on a working surface.

>
> Someone was right, I did have "mold" checked. Uncheckd and new slice
> made, no other changes.  But perhaps 3 hours to finish this one,

One advantage of hollowing out the pulley with a 24mm hole is the greatly
educe print time.  I only print the  our 5mm of the pulley.   I'm printing
four ofthem, four-up at a time now.

> but its
> up into the pulley teeth but the threads its laying are completely
> random, no teeth, just a rough surface with no real pattern.

Are these "teeth" the ones that engage the belt or the ones that engage the
set screw?   Printing a threaded horizontal hole is going to be way-hard
with 0.4mm walls for this just make an undersized plain hole and then tap
it by hand.  Or just as well, let it try to make threads then clean it up
with a tap.Vertical hones print better.

With standard threads in metal, every cross-section is a perfect circle.  A
vertical hole is just a stack of circles, something the printer can do.
But horizontal holes have "roofs".  The printer can't print over air so it
adds support material inside the hole.   I'm sure this is what you see,
 In Cura's preview support is blue.

It is possible to selectively turn supports on and off so the horizontal
holes are not filled with support.  But it is a lot of work   I use a hex
key to punch out the support from holes.

If the messed up teeth are the belt teeth then I'm at a loss without a
photo.

> And no,
> its not loose on the hot plate. :

-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Design for the materials and process

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 4:16 PM andy pugh  wrote:

>
> I can make T-5 pulleys. I have the correct hob...
>  Here is a rather special one that I made:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WQjvc7TCmm2K6yfA6

cheating... no flanges. :-)

>
>
> I have a suggestion to avoid support for the flanges.
>
> https://a360.co/2U7MfCg
>

I gues you must have seem my tak on this idea too.   Use a metl core with a
band of teeth and one flange over it. over it

-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Design for the materials and process

2020-06-04 Thread John Dammeyer

> 
> 
> I have a suggestion to avoid support for the flanges.
> 
> https://a360.co/2U7MfCg
> 
> (Use the explode tool to see the cunning plan)

Clever.  
John

> 
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> � George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
> 
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users



___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Thursday 04 June 2020 19:49:36 Chris Albertson wrote:

> That is such a good idea!
>
> It eliminates all the overhang.  I took this idea and combined it with
> what I do and made a hybrid.   One half of this in made on a lathe out
> of steel or aluminum and the other half is printed.The "hybrd"
> pulley would last for years.
>
> This turns an intermediate skill level print job into two
> beginner-level jobs one on a lathe and one on the printer.   Join the
> two with epoxy or CA glue.   Some of this group could do this lathe
> work before the printer is half done.
>
> Here is a 3D view of this https://a360.co/3eUpZE6
> 
>
> Just in case the above link fails here is a render in 2D.   I might
> actually do this.  Of course, this applies to things like helical
> gears and so on.
>
>
> [image: HybridPulley.jpeg]
>
Neat as can be.  Lemme see what I can cobble up out of the parametric 
sprocket kit. I think I've some 1.75" dia alu to make the hubs from.

Looking at this one, 80% done, it looks like the teeth are twisted at a 
high angle, like 75 or more degrees?  Crazy... 
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 3:48 PM Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users <
>
> emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:
> > For a toothed pulley with a flange on both sides I'd modify the 3D
> > model to make one flange a separate part, with features on it and
> > the body of the pulley to align it so that when glued on it will be
> > concentric.
> >
> > To glue PLA, cyanoacrylate (super glue) works well. So does
> > tetrahydrofuran, which is in some types of PVC pipe cleaner/primer.
> > The PVC cleaners without THF won't bond PLA.
> > The ridged surfaces of FDM prints can be used to make parts that fit
> > together like they're snap fit. Sizing part fits just right then
> > adjusting extrusion can make the same models easily drop together, a
> > light press fit that holds but is separable, or a press fit that's
> > not tight enough to distort but is never coming apart without
> > something breaking.
> >
> > On Thursday, June 4, 2020, 3:14:31 PM MDT, Chris Albertson <
> > albertson.ch...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >  If you have not enabled supports and are printing an object like a
> > pulley you WILL have a total mess.3D printer need a surface and
> > an part of the part that overhangs with just air onder it will not
> > print well as the hot plastic will just fall out the nozzle.
> >
> > But that cross hatch pattern looks like support base so it must be
> > enabled. You can enable support either "from the baseplate up" or
> > "everywhere" and you need "everywhere" as at to support the top
> > flange.
> >
> > Yes, removing support is a PIA because on a pulley the teeth will be
> > completely 100% inside a ring of support material.
> >
> > For a beginner you picked a hard project.  Most people would start
> > by printing a one-inch cube or a 1/2 inch flat washer.  Pulleys have
> > need of support and have printed threads for the set screw.  Both as
> > "intermediate level" skills.Horizontal threads always have
> > support inside that needs pin punch (hex key) to remove
> >
> > I had to modify the pulley design so it could print with minimal
> > support. Take all the ridges off the outside, make the flange
> > thicker and radius the inside of the flange
> >
> > It is also possible to control the support density and pattern.
> >
> > Getting all this right nly tak seconds if you know to do it.  I
> > start in Fusion and vew thepart from al sides to see if it can be
> > better designed to reduce the need for support.  Then in Cura I try
> > a few suport techniques and use preview to see where it is going to
> > go.  If it looks bad, then back to Fusion to change an angle or
> > whatever.This is why engineers like really fast workstatins as
> > design is iterative.
> >
> > I'll look at a file if you can e-mail it.
> > ___
> > Emc-users mailing list
> > Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Design for the materials and process

On Fri, 5 Jun 2020 at 01:03, Gene Heskett  wrote:

up into the pulley teeth but the threads its laying are completely
> random, no teeth, just a rough surface with no real pattern.


Why not print the classic "Benchy" boat, and only try to make working parts
when that works?

(and why persist with this print if it is so obviously wrong?)


-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

Kind of* back on-topic*, see why in a minute...

Idea:  Make a printer with two tanks.  One resin and one IPA.The
printer raises the part out of the resin then the tanks moves on a rail and
the platform goes back down but this time int IPA tank and the platform
move 1mm or 2mm up and down quickly. The up goes the platform and a
third "tank" filled with air is used or rather it is filled with UV light
and a drier fan.

You could also manually swap the three tans.

I think you could use glass built plates.  You need a dozen or more of them
and periodically you chemically clean them in a fourth tank.

This is why I suggest to people to buy the "Ender" as a first printer.
It's cheap and easy.

A printer with a complex robotic parts like tanks on rails would best be
done using LinuxCNC and Hal then with Merlin.  Especially if using a few
dozen glass plates.   These could be loaded from a hopper and the clean
post process parts could be robotically unloaded, still attached to the
glass.

The mechanics is not horribly hard, I'm 3D printing both a CNC mill
conversion and a self-drive car controller.  And SLA printer is not much
different

I think a DIY full robotic workflow with LinuxCNC controller might be done
for under $1K (and 4,000 hours of free engineering time.)

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 3:18 PM Bruce Layne 
wrote:

> On 6/4/20 4:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> > One more question.  How do you post-process the printed parts?  Do you
> use
> > a separate UV lamp or sunlight.  Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> > alcohol?  I know they make SLA post-processing equipment, ultrasonic
> > cleaners, and UV booths.
>
>
> I'm still experimenting with post processing.  I'm fairly new at resin
> printing so probably not the best source of information.  I want to be
> able to run limited production so I want to simplify the process as much
> as possible and automate it as much as I can.
>
> For cleaning the printed parts, I'm having the best results with
> isopropyl alcohol.  I spray it on and scrub gently with my gloved hand
> and then spray the part again and let the IPA rinse drip off and allow
> the part to air dry.  I had seen some encouraging videos and posts
> online from people getting good results with a detergent such as Simple
> Green in an ultrasonic cleaner so I bought a larger ultrasonic cleaner.
> The first parts out of the cleaner looked very good but every part after
> that was progressively worse.  The part surfaces were increasingly
> cloudy and there was some gritty orange precipitate in the bottom of the
> ultrasonic tank that would settle on the parts.  I don't want to drain
> the ultrasonic tank each time or I'd be better served by spraying IPA on
> the parts.  Some resins apparently don't like aqueous cleaning.  At the
> very least, the cleaned parts should be allowed to dry overnight before
> the UV post cure.
>
> I thought I'd be clever and UV post cure the parts in the final rinse
> tank.  I was planning to ultrasonically wash the parts, rinse the parts
> in a tank of deionized water, then do a final rinse in another tank of
> DI water that's agitated with a submersed pump.  After a minute of
> agitated rinsing, an Arduino would turn on the UV light in the lid of
> the rinse tank to UV cure the part underwater.  I did some research and
> others were UV curing under water.  I tried it and the results were OK
> but not great.  Then I read where some resin manufacturer stated that
> the UV post cure should not be done under water and the parts should be
> thoroughly dry before they are post cured.
>
> I'm still experimenting.  I bought several different resins to test but
> have only tried two resins.  I need to do a lot more experimenting but
> I've been busy designing and printing parts on the FDM printers lately.
>
> The cost of the MSLA 3D printers is low, and the print resolution and
> part strength is high, so resin printers are going to be gaining
> popularity and these post processing issues will become much less hassle
> and mystery.  I've looked at some post processing equipment and read
> reviews and so far I'm underwhelmed.  Someone needs to make a Resin
> Printing Best Practices video or PDF.  If it exists, I haven't seen it.
> There are some useful tips but much of the information is contradictory.
>
> I need to make a fixture to gently scrape the parts off the build plate
> in a controlled manner.  That can be a treacherous process, fraught with
> peril.  Maybe I'll devise something that washes the parts on the build
> plate by spraying everything with IPA to clean the build plate at the
> same time, then scrape the clean parts off the clean build plate to
> avoid gumming up the scraper mechanism.  That would be better than slimy
> gooey parts flying across the room, or gouging a resin covered scraper
> 10mm into my hand.
>
> I bought an inexpensive but very nice 30W UV lamp, Amazon ASIN
> B07XCQ5C58.  It does a good job of post curing the parts.  I've seen
> where

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Thursday 04 June 2020 19:34:03 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

> What format is the original model? To convert to STL the model has to
> be solid or "water tight". No missing faces and all one piece. A bunch
> of solid parts 'glued together' can cause problems like what you're
> experiencing, especially if the parts intersect. Other issues that can
> crop up with 3D CAD files are disconnected vertexes and edges that
> look like they're connected. Doubled lines, vertexes, and faces.
> Backwards normals (what's supposed to be the outside of a face
> specified as the inside) and various other screwed up stuff. I dread
> having to work with stuff people have designed in Sketchup. The
> software may as well be called screwup because of how easily people
> can create bad geometry with it.
>
> Try this parametric pulley customizer to get a model that should be 3D
> printing sympatico. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16627

Thats what I am using Gregg.  I think from a previous post of yours.
Thanks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Design for the materials and process

On Thursday 04 June 2020 19:13:10 andy pugh wrote:

> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 23:46, Chris Albertson
>  wrote:
>
> The first step is to design the part knowing the process and what it
> can
>
> > and can't do.The usual timing belt pulleys are designed to be
> > easy to make in a die-cast machine or injection molded.   They would
> > look *much different* if they were milled using CNC.
>
> I can make T-5 pulleys. I have the correct hob...
>  Here is a rather special one that I made:
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/WQjvc7TCmm2K6yfA6
>
> > Then look at (2) my
> > modification of the above CAD file so that is it "printable".
>
> I have a suggestion to avoid support for the flanges.
>
> https://a360.co/2U7MfCg
>
> (Use the explode tool to see the cunning plan)

Thats cute. But that would likely need to be made on a resin printer as 
this one from what I've seen so far, simply cannot do that fine a 
detail.

Someone was right, I did have "mold" checked. Uncheckd and new slice 
made, no other changes.  But perhaps 3 hours to finish this one, but its 
up into the pulley teeth but the threads its laying are completely 
random, no teeth, just a rough surface with no real pattern.  And no, 
its not loose on the hot plate. :-)  I'll see if the next one works, in 
which case I'll swap motors and find out how quick I can tear the hub 
out of it.  Big change from a nema 34 with a double flatted 14mm shaft 
to a nema 23 with a single flatted 8mm shaft. 30T on the motor, 42T on 
the 25mm Z single start screw...  I have a pair of metal pulley's 
ordered.

Cura its claimed can monitor and/or drive this machine thru the otg port, 
if I get the correct cable, but my 10 meter extension is usb-2, can 
someone verify that an otg adaptor plugged into a usb-2 hub will work?

Thanks.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

Hackaday has a series of articles under 3D Printering. The latest, #42, covers 
cleaning resin prints. The basics are use two IPA washes. One for initial 
cleaning to get most of the uncured resin off, then a second one to finish. 
When the second has too much resin dissolved to wash clean, swap it to the 
primary position to save IPA.
 https://hackaday.com/tag/3d-printering/3D Printering – Hackaday

On Thursday, June 4, 2020, 4:18:08 PM MDT, Bruce Layne 
 wrote:  

 On 6/4/20 4:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> One more question.  How do you post-process the printed parts?  Do you use
> a separate UV lamp or sunlight.  Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> alcohol?  I know they make SLA post-processing equipment, ultrasonic
> cleaners, and UV booths.

I'm still experimenting with post processing.  I'm fairly new at resin
printing so probably not the best source of information.  I want to be
able to run limited production so I want to simplify the process as much
as possible and automate it as much as I can.  
Links in the message (1)

|  |  | 
3D Printering – Hackaday
 |

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

What format is the original model? To convert to STL the model has to be solid 
or "water tight". No missing faces and all one piece. A bunch of solid parts 
'glued together' can cause problems like what you're experiencing, especially 
if the parts intersect. Other issues that can crop up with 3D CAD files are 
disconnected vertexes and edges that look like they're connected. Doubled 
lines, vertexes, and faces. Backwards normals (what's supposed to be the 
outside of a face specified as the inside) and various other screwed up stuff. 
I dread having to work with stuff people have designed in Sketchup. The 
software may as well be called screwup because of how easily people can create 
bad geometry with it.

Try this parametric pulley customizer to get a model that should be 3D printing 
sympatico. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16627

On Thursday, June 4, 2020, 10:24:43 AM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote:  

 On Thursday 04 June 2020 08:13:53 andy pugh wrote:

> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 12:20, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> Preview has a camera view angle that takes the image off the bottom of
>
> > the screen, long before the magnification has reached a usefull
> > level.
>
> Shift-drag, Ctrl-drag and Alt-Drag all do different things to the
> preview.

Crazy. But the build in progress is totally screwed, theres a post of 50% 
infill where the shaft hole s/b, and the wall around the shaft is 
missing! Taking the raft off took most of the infill with it because 
there was no solid bottom or top to a 12mm tall hub that measures 12.5mm 
tall now.  The only conclusion I can reach is that I've done something 
to the src file, which I've been doing a save-as to the modified code 
before handing it off to the slicer each time.  So go back to the 
original src and start all over.

Which I did, but stopped that build when it was obvious it was going to 
do the same miss-build again.

1. no bottom hub wall
2. no wall around shaft or nut pocket
3. nut pocket 100% infilled
4. middle of whats supposed to be an 8mm shaft infilled
5. Scan attached for the experts perusal, whats fubared in cura?

 But I think I'll go get the tooth count I need to put the 2nd motor on 
the Sheldon's Z, and see if I can find an alu sprocket for that.

Cheers, Gene Heskett  
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Design for the materials and process

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 23:46, Chris Albertson 
wrote:

The first step is to design the part knowing the process and what it can
> and can't do.The usual timing belt pulleys are designed to be easy to
> make in a die-cast machine or injection molded.   They would look *much
> different* if they were milled using CNC.
>

I can make T-5 pulleys. I have the correct hob...
 Here is a rather special one that I made:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WQjvc7TCmm2K6yfA6


> Then look at (2) my
> modification of the above CAD file so that is it "printable".


I have a suggestion to avoid support for the flanges.

https://a360.co/2U7MfCg

(Use the explode tool to see the cunning plan)

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

For a toothed pulley with a flange on both sides I'd modify the 3D model to 
make one flange a separate part, with features on it and the body of the pulley 
to align it so that when glued on it will be concentric. 

To glue PLA, cyanoacrylate (super glue) works well. So does tetrahydrofuran, 
which is in some types of PVC pipe cleaner/primer. The PVC cleaners without THF 
won't bond PLA.
The ridged surfaces of FDM prints can be used to make parts that fit together 
like they're snap fit. Sizing part fits just right then adjusting extrusion can 
make the same models easily drop together, a light press fit that holds but is 
separable, or a press fit that's not tight enough to distort but is never 
coming apart without something breaking.

On Thursday, June 4, 2020, 3:14:31 PM MDT, Chris Albertson 
 wrote:  
 If you have not enabled supports and are printing an object like a pulley
you WILL have a total mess.    3D printer need a surface and an part of the
part that overhangs with just air onder it will not print well as the hot
plastic will just fall out the nozzle.

But that cross hatch pattern looks like support base so it must be enabled.
    You can enable support either "from the baseplate up" or "everywhere"
and you need "everywhere" as at to support the top flange.

Yes, removing support is a PIA because on a pulley the teeth will be
completely 100% inside a ring of support material.

For a beginner you picked a hard project.  Most people would start by
printing a one-inch cube or a 1/2 inch flat washer.  Pulleys have need of
support and have printed threads for the set screw.  Both as
"intermediate level" skills.    Horizontal threads always have
support inside that needs pin punch (hex key) to remove

I had to modify the pulley design so it could print with minimal support.
Take all the ridges off the outside, make the flange thicker and radius the
inside of the flange

It is also possible to control the support density and pattern.

Getting all this right nly tak seconds if you know to do it.  I start in
Fusion and vew thepart from al sides to see if it can be better designed to
reduce the need for support.  Then in Cura I try a few suport techniques
and use preview to see where it is going to go.  If it looks bad, then
back to Fusion to change an angle or whatever.    This is why engineers
like really fast workstatins as design is iterative.

I'll look at a file if you can e-mail it.  
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

It sounds like you checked the "print a mold" box.  Cura can do this.  The
part is then made of air surrounded by plastic.   (People do this so they
can fill the void space with resin or maybe wax to make a candle.   It is a
REALLY good way to make a shoft rubber over-molded part.Let's say you
made a hammer handle in steel on a lathe. Place it inside a printed mold
and pour in the rubber and get finger grips over a steel shaft.   It's
useful but not now.)

If you didn't evidently click "mold" then there is something wrong with the
STL file.  The file SHOULD specify which side is the inside and which is
the outside.   This can be messed up.   Without knowing the history of the
STL file, I can't say.Send the files, The STL, and the *.3mf files you
get when you do File->Save in Cura. (.3mf has all your settings)

Are you making the file in openscad?  f so it is easy to make an
unprintable model.  It is a topological thing where what you actually made
is the inside of a pulley.  I guessing blind here.



-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

2020-06-04 Thread Bruce Layne

On 6/4/20 4:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> One more question.  How do you post-process the printed parts?  Do you use
> a separate UV lamp or sunlight.  Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> alcohol?  I know they make SLA post-processing equipment, ultrasonic
> cleaners, and UV booths.

I'm still experimenting with post processing.  I'm fairly new at resin
printing so probably not the best source of information.  I want to be
able to run limited production so I want to simplify the process as much
as possible and automate it as much as I can.

For cleaning the printed parts, I'm having the best results with
isopropyl alcohol.  I spray it on and scrub gently with my gloved hand
and then spray the part again and let the IPA rinse drip off and allow
the part to air dry.  I had seen some encouraging videos and posts
online from people getting good results with a detergent such as Simple
Green in an ultrasonic cleaner so I bought a larger ultrasonic cleaner. 
The first parts out of the cleaner looked very good but every part after
that was progressively worse.  The part surfaces were increasingly
cloudy and there was some gritty orange precipitate in the bottom of the
ultrasonic tank that would settle on the parts.  I don't want to drain
the ultrasonic tank each time or I'd be better served by spraying IPA on
the parts.  Some resins apparently don't like aqueous cleaning.  At the
very least, the cleaned parts should be allowed to dry overnight before
the UV post cure.

I thought I'd be clever and UV post cure the parts in the final rinse
tank.  I was planning to ultrasonically wash the parts, rinse the parts
in a tank of deionized water, then do a final rinse in another tank of
DI water that's agitated with a submersed pump.  After a minute of
agitated rinsing, an Arduino would turn on the UV light in the lid of
the rinse tank to UV cure the part underwater.  I did some research and
others were UV curing under water.  I tried it and the results were OK
but not great.  Then I read where some resin manufacturer stated that
the UV post cure should not be done under water and the parts should be
thoroughly dry before they are post cured.

I'm still experimenting.  I bought several different resins to test but
have only tried two resins.  I need to do a lot more experimenting but
I've been busy designing and printing parts on the FDM printers lately.

The cost of the MSLA 3D printers is low, and the print resolution and
part strength is high, so resin printers are going to be gaining
popularity and these post processing issues will become much less hassle
and mystery.  I've looked at some post processing equipment and read
reviews and so far I'm underwhelmed.  Someone needs to make a Resin
Printing Best Practices video or PDF.  If it exists, I haven't seen it. 
There are some useful tips but much of the information is contradictory.

I need to make a fixture to gently scrape the parts off the build plate
in a controlled manner.  That can be a treacherous process, fraught with
peril.  Maybe I'll devise something that washes the parts on the build
plate by spraying everything with IPA to clean the build plate at the
same time, then scrape the clean parts off the clean build plate to
avoid gumming up the scraper mechanism.  That would be better than slimy
gooey parts flying across the room, or gouging a resin covered scraper
10mm into my hand.

I bought an inexpensive but very nice 30W UV lamp, Amazon ASIN
B07XCQ5C58.  It does a good job of post curing the parts.  I've seen
where people build curing boxes with UV LEDs and line the box with
mirrors, not realizing that glass blocks most of the UV.  They'd have
better results with polished stainless steel as a front surface mirror.

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] How to get data to HAL from USB, serial or socket?

2020-06-04 Thread John Dammeyer




> -Original Message-
> From: Chris Albertson [mailto:albertson.ch...@gmail.com]
> 
> I'd like to build a handheld pendant controller.   I have some ideas about
> how it should work.  One thing I want is an LCD screen.   This could evolve
> into a "smart pendant" that can do things like move along an arc, rather
> than just one axis at a time.
> 
> I think the best physical interface from a handheld device to the computer
> is USB.Is there a way to get data from USB to HAL?   I could use a USB
> virtual serial port but then the question is getting serial port data to
> HAL.
> 
> Maybe the best interface is wireless, so how to get data from a UNIX socket
> to HAL?
> 
> Note that we don't need "hard" real-time to the computer.  Latency of a few
> tens of milliseconds is acceptable for a human interface so this could be
> done in userspace.  If so, then maybe all I need is a way to get data from
> an arbitrary Linux application to HAL.
> 
> It just occurred to me that this "arbitrary Linux application" could be the
> Apache webserver.  Then you run a browser on the tablet.
> 
> Summary:   How to move data from USB or serial or socket to HAL?
> 
> --
> 
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California

Hi Chris,
You're back to describing what I've been talking about for th last few months.  
Essentially an ELS for the MILL but from the opposite direction. 
My idea is the control does say the step/dir signalling etc to the hardware.  
The Ethernet (or SPIbus) connection to it from LinuxCNC.So if you just want 
to use the mill in a manual fashion then you can.  And you what you have is  
power feed on each axis with begin/end positions and DROs.  Along with limit 
and ESTOP.

But connect to LinuxCNC and it becomes that MPG you are describing.

Anyway, check out 

linuxcnc-master\lib\hallib\xhc-hb04.tcl

which is added into the ini file in the [HAL] seciton.
HALFILE = LIB:xhc-hb04.tcl

And then your INI file also has 
[XHC_HB04_CONFIG]

John



D:\Projects\LinuxCNC\linuxcnc-master\lib\hallib




___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] How to get data to HAL from USB, serial or socket?

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 21:35, Chris Albertson 
wrote:

I think the best physical interface from a handheld device to the computer
> is USB.Is there a way to get data from USB to HAL?
>

https://emergent.unpythonic.net/01198594294

(alternatively, put a 7i73 in your pendant, and you have everything you
need, including matrix keyboard, LCD driver and encoder counters)

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Thursday 04 June 2020 17:11:49 Chris Albertson wrote:

> If you have not enabled supports and are printing an object like a
> pulley you WILL have a total mess.3D printer need a surface and an
> part of the part that overhangs with just air onder it will not print
> well as the hot plastic will just fall out the nozzle.
>
> But that cross hatch pattern looks like support base so it must be
> enabled. You can enable support either "from the baseplate up" or
> "everywhere" and you need "everywhere" as at to support the top
> flange.
>
> Yes, removing support is a PIA because on a pulley the teeth will be
> completely 100% inside a ring of support material.
>
> For a beginner you picked a hard project.   Most people would start by
> printing a one-inch cube or a 1/2 inch flat washer.   Pulleys have
> need of support and have printed threads for the set screw.  Both as
> "intermediate level" skills.Horizontal threads always have
> support inside that needs pin punch (hex key) to remove
>
> I had to modify the pulley design so it could print with minimal
> support. Take all the ridges off the outside, make the flange thicker
> and radius the inside of the flange
>
> It is also possible to control the support density and pattern.
>
> Getting all this right nly tak seconds if you know to do it.  I start
> in Fusion and vew thepart from al sides to see if it can be better
> designed to reduce the need for support.   Then in Cura I try a few
> suport techniques and use preview to see where it is going to go.   If
> it looks bad, then back to Fusion to change an angle or whatever.
> This is why engineers like really fast workstatins as design is
> iterative.
>
> I'll look at a file if you can e-mail it.
>
Which file, the gcode that was copied to the printer? or ??


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

If you have not enabled supports and are printing an object like a pulley
you WILL have a total mess.3D printer need a surface and an part of the
part that overhangs with just air onder it will not print well as the hot
plastic will just fall out the nozzle.

But that cross hatch pattern looks like support base so it must be enabled.
You can enable support either "from the baseplate up" or "everywhere"
and you need "everywhere" as at to support the top flange.

Yes, removing support is a PIA because on a pulley the teeth will be
completely 100% inside a ring of support material.

For a beginner you picked a hard project.   Most people would start by
printing a one-inch cube or a 1/2 inch flat washer.   Pulleys have need of
support and have printed threads for the set screw.  Both as
"intermediate level" skills.Horizontal threads always have
support inside that needs pin punch (hex key) to remove

I had to modify the pulley design so it could print with minimal support.
Take all the ridges off the outside, make the flange thicker and radius the
inside of the flange

It is also possible to control the support density and pattern.

Getting all this right nly tak seconds if you know to do it.  I start in
Fusion and vew thepart from al sides to see if it can be better designed to
reduce the need for support.   Then in Cura I try a few suport techniques
and use preview to see where it is going to go.   If it looks bad, then
back to Fusion to change an angle or whatever. This is why engineers
like really fast workstatins as design is iterative.

I'll look at a file if you can e-mail it.

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 1:36 PM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Thursday 04 June 2020 13:09:10 Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> > Can you save
>
> > 1) the STL file
> yes, I have that, created by openscad
> > 2) the gcode file
> yes, I have that, the .stl file as  sliced by cura
> > 3) Then in Cura to File-> and it will save the project file
> Where is this menu? The only write capability I can find in cura is a
> save gcode to file, only after the .stl has been sliced.
>
> > which has
> > all the settings including how you positioned the model on the build
> > plate.
> >
> > I'd look at these fies.
> >
> > But my guess is this is a data error.  The gcode file is
> > gettig corrupted or read wrong by the printer.   This is rare if using
> > an SD card but if you are feeding the printer via the USB that it is
> > understandable.  It looks like data is being dropped, missing g-codes
> > make a mess of the print.
>
> I've pulled up a chair and a cuppa, watching how it makes the 2nd pass at
> a 30 tooth pulley, XL belt style, with one 5mm grub screw and an 8mm
> shaft hole in a 24mm hub OD.
>
> 7mm into the build, its looking like its extending support at about a 50%
> fill (its turned off) coming out of the base of the hub at a 45 degree
> angle outward. Starting at the base.
>
> The grub screw location, and its nut is a 100% fill, the reverse of what
> I could see in openscad or cura, and is extended to a point about 1mm
> past the center of the hub.
>
> Supposed to have an 8mm shaft hole, surrounded by 5mm walls, the central
> hole is 24 or 25mm in diameter, full of air.  Except for the post of
> plastic where the grub screw and its nut belongs. I just took a look at
> that, but I expect to see the peak of the hex nut laid up in plastic,
> but at 8.39mm off the bed, it hasn't gotten there yet.
>
> This may be my mistake, it looks good even in cura, including the 8mm
> shaft hole.
>
> TBH the last time I saw this many bugs I was standing over a 10 day old
> road killed deer in mid-August.  The only thing missing is the odor.
>
> I'm going to let it finish just to see where else it fscks up, but thats
> the first 24% and 8.39mm off the hot plate.  Haven't gotten anywhere
> near the sprocket yet.  FWIW, the calibrate with paper sucks, I have it
> gently touching the plate, which isn't that flat, and adhesion is good,
> but dragging a sheet of 22lb thru it is hairball high, no stick at all.
>
> I suspect its doing exactly what the gcode is telling it to.  Is there a
> place to send pix to the cura people to look at and tell me I'm an
> ID10T?
>
> >
> > One more thing,  It could be that Cura is generating supports inside
> > the screw holes. It might not be infill but rather a support
> >
> > Is the pulley dead-flat?  and you are printing it hub extension up.
> > If the model is not in full contact with the plate because perhaps
> > there is a ridge or bump that holds some surface off the plat that
> > this cross hatching is the base of some support materials.   Cura uses
> > a cross hatch as the first layer of support material.
> >
> > If is best if the base of everything you print is a flat plane.   I
> > can't tell without a look at the files.
> >
> > One more thing, for objects like this try "Gyroid" infill type.  It
> > makes a 3D patterns like open-cell foam using intersecting sine waves.
> >  About 25% is enough for this

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

2020-06-04 Thread N

> Sorry, their web site is not 100% informative.   The USB thumb drive is
> maybe better than an SD card.
> 
> One more question.  How do you post-process the printed parts?  Do you use
> a separate UV lamp or sunlight.  Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
> alcohol?  I know they make SLA post-processing equipment, ultrasonic
> cleaners, and UV booths.   I'm thinking I might "borrow" my daughter's
> fingernail polish UV curing lamp gadget but I'd lose that argument.

Tell me if you need someone keep her busy while you borrow it.


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting




On 6/4/20 3:50 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:

How do you post-process the printed parts?  Do you use
a separate UV lamp or sunlight.


Either.



Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
alcohol?

Yes.


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

Sorry, their web site is not 100% informative.   The USB thumb drive is
maybe better than an SD card.

One more question.  How do you post-process the printed parts?  Do you use
a separate UV lamp or sunlight.  Same with cleaning? Just use a bucket of
alcohol?  I know they make SLA post-processing equipment, ultrasonic
cleaners, and UV booths.   I'm thinking I might "borrow" my daughter's
fingernail polish UV curing lamp gadget but I'd lose that argument.

If you do happen to have a PDF user manual could you post it?  I could not
find anything on their website.



On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 12:16 PM Bruce Layne 
wrote:

> Some misinformation in Chris' post.
>
> The QIDI Shadow 5.5S has a USB port, just like most 3D printers, but the
> lack of an SD card does not imply that data is dribbled across a USB
> cable as the printer needs it.  Instead of an SD card, I plug a USB
> thumb drive into the Shadow.  There's a very nice graphic touch LCD for
> a user interface.  When I select PRINT from the touch screen, the
> contents of the USB card are listed in little buttons on the screen.
> The writing is too small for my old eyes without magnification, but
> there are images of the parts to be printed which is very cool.  Touch
> the image I want to print and it prints from the USB thumb drive.
>
> I replaced the supplied (possibly fake) Toshiba thumb drive with a tiny
> 64GB Sandisk (they're awesome, Gene :-) Cruzer Fit thumb drive (Amazon
> ASIN: B07MDXBTL1) that's almost flush with the side of the printer so it
> won't snag and banjax the printer's USB port.
>
>
>
>
> On 6/4/20 2:25 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> > I looked.   They have their own slicing software that runs on Mac or
> > Windows.   The interface is USB only, no SD card.  So on Linux you'd be
> > using a virtual machine to host a Windows image and then their software
> in
> > that.  Windows runs well in a VM if the host machine is powerful enough.
> >
> > I would prefer a printer that accepts SD cards as that is more reliable
> and
> > does not tie up a computer for possibly 20 hours.
> >
> > Here is a very good unbiased article comparing 3D printer types from a
> > company that makes all three types of printers.I would start with FDM
> > as it will do 90% of what I want.  Then SLA for the other 20%.  If
> you
> > must have a solid-built FDM printer These guys have that or you
> Utilmaker
> > printers are well made but at literally 10X the price.
> > https://ultimaker.com/learn/comparing-fff-sla-and-sls-technologies
> >
> > SLA is limited to small parts and is a mess to work (goggles, apron, and
> > gloves required) with but worth it if I want to build a mechanical hand
> > with 5 tiny motors inside.  The cost of the material is high but if
> > only making small parts maybe it does not matter.
> >
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:09 AM grumpy--- via Emc-users <
> > emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:
> >
> >>> I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
> >> i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
> >> what slicing software is needed
> >> does it run under linux
> >> is the manual available
> >> i would like to read up on this
> >>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> Emc-users mailing list
> >> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> >> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
> >>
> >
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>


-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Thursday 04 June 2020 13:09:10 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Can you save

> 1) the STL file
yes, I have that, created by openscad
> 2) the gcode file
yes, I have that, the .stl file as  sliced by cura
> 3) Then in Cura to File-> and it will save the project file
Where is this menu? The only write capability I can find in cura is a 
save gcode to file, only after the .stl has been sliced.

> which has 
> all the settings including how you positioned the model on the build
> plate.
>
> I'd look at these fies.
>
> But my guess is this is a data error.  The gcode file is
> gettig corrupted or read wrong by the printer.   This is rare if using
> an SD card but if you are feeding the printer via the USB that it is
> understandable.  It looks like data is being dropped, missing g-codes
> make a mess of the print.

I've pulled up a chair and a cuppa, watching how it makes the 2nd pass at 
a 30 tooth pulley, XL belt style, with one 5mm grub screw and an 8mm 
shaft hole in a 24mm hub OD.

7mm into the build, its looking like its extending support at about a 50% 
fill (its turned off) coming out of the base of the hub at a 45 degree 
angle outward. Starting at the base.

The grub screw location, and its nut is a 100% fill, the reverse of what 
I could see in openscad or cura, and is extended to a point about 1mm 
past the center of the hub.

Supposed to have an 8mm shaft hole, surrounded by 5mm walls, the central 
hole is 24 or 25mm in diameter, full of air.  Except for the post of 
plastic where the grub screw and its nut belongs. I just took a look at 
that, but I expect to see the peak of the hex nut laid up in plastic, 
but at 8.39mm off the bed, it hasn't gotten there yet.

This may be my mistake, it looks good even in cura, including the 8mm 
shaft hole.

TBH the last time I saw this many bugs I was standing over a 10 day old 
road killed deer in mid-August.  The only thing missing is the odor.

I'm going to let it finish just to see where else it fscks up, but thats 
the first 24% and 8.39mm off the hot plate.  Haven't gotten anywhere 
near the sprocket yet.  FWIW, the calibrate with paper sucks, I have it 
gently touching the plate, which isn't that flat, and adhesion is good, 
but dragging a sheet of 22lb thru it is hairball high, no stick at all.

I suspect its doing exactly what the gcode is telling it to.  Is there a 
place to send pix to the cura people to look at and tell me I'm an 
ID10T?

>
> One more thing,  It could be that Cura is generating supports inside
> the screw holes. It might not be infill but rather a support
>
> Is the pulley dead-flat?  and you are printing it hub extension up.   
> If the model is not in full contact with the plate because perhaps
> there is a ridge or bump that holds some surface off the plat that
> this cross hatching is the base of some support materials.   Cura uses
> a cross hatch as the first layer of support material.
>
> If is best if the base of everything you print is a flat plane.   I
> can't tell without a look at the files.
>
> One more thing, for objects like this try "Gyroid" infill type.  It
> makes a 3D patterns like open-cell foam using intersecting sine waves.
>  About 25% is enough for this part.
>
> My guess is "data error" is this is done via USB or if there is a
> ridge on the pulley it might be suport but suort is printed in X and Y
> direction not at 45 degrees.  But I don't know the camera angle.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:24 AM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > On Thursday 04 June 2020 08:13:53 andy pugh wrote:
> > > On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 12:20, Gene Heskett 
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > Preview has a camera view angle that takes the image off the
> > > bottom of
> > >
> > > > the screen, long before the magnification has reached a usefull
> > > > level.
> > >
> > > Shift-drag, Ctrl-drag and Alt-Drag all do different things to the
> > > preview.
> >
> > Crazy. But the build in progress is totally screwed, theres a post
> > of 50% infill where the shaft hole s/b, and the wall around the
> > shaft is missing! Taking the raft off took most of the infill with
> > it because there was no solid bottom or top to a 12mm tall hub that
> > measures 12.5mm tall now.  The only conclusion I can reach is that
> > I've done something to the src file, which I've been doing a save-as
> > to the modified code before handing it off to the slicer each time. 
> > So go back to the original src and start all over.
> >
> > Which I did, but stopped that build when it was obvious it was going
> > to do the same miss-build again.
> >
> > 1. no bottom hub wall
> > 2. no wall around shaft or nut pocket
> > 3. nut pocket 100% infilled
> > 4. middle of whats supposed to be an 8mm shaft infilled
> > 5. Scan attached for the experts perusal, whats fubared in cura?
> >
> >  But I think I'll go get the tooth count I need to put the 2nd motor
> > on the Sheldon's Z, and see if I can find an alu sprocket for that.
> >
> > Cheers, Gene Heskett
> > --
> > "There are four boxes to be used

[Emc-users] How to get data to HAL from USB, serial or socket?

I'd like to build a handheld pendant controller.   I have some ideas about
how it should work.  One thing I want is an LCD screen.   This could evolve
into a "smart pendant" that can do things like move along an arc, rather
than just one axis at a time.

I think the best physical interface from a handheld device to the computer
is USB.Is there a way to get data from USB to HAL?   I could use a USB
virtual serial port but then the question is getting serial port data to
HAL.

Maybe the best interface is wireless, so how to get data from a UNIX socket
to HAL?

Note that we don't need "hard" real-time to the computer.  Latency of a few
tens of milliseconds is acceptable for a human interface so this could be
done in userspace.  If so, then maybe all I need is a way to get data from
an arbitrary Linux application to HAL.

It just occurred to me that this "arbitrary Linux application" could be the
Apache webserver.  Then you run a browser on the tablet.

Summary:   How to move data from USB or serial or socket to HAL?

-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting


https://forum.linuxcnc.org/show-your-stuff/39213-linuxcnc-for-sla-dlp-and-msla-mlcd-printers

https://imgur.com/zvxoHUT   https://imgur.com/zKNtBAg

XY area: 537.6mm x 302.4mm (21.14" x 11.89") Large enough? You can go 
much larger.


Photopolymers start under $20/Kg. Similar to FFF filament.


On 6/4/20 1:25 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:

SLA is limited to small parts and is a mess to work (goggles, apron, and
gloves required) with but worth it if I want to build a mechanical hand
with 5 tiny motors inside.  The cost of the material is high but if
only making small parts maybe it does not matter.



___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

2020-06-04 Thread Martin Dobbins

Thanks for posting about that, it's a new one on me.  Previously I had looked 
at Anycubic Photon and Elegoo Mars, I think they will have "other planets" out 
soon too :-).  I *think* most of these will do "offline" prints and work with 
USB thumb drives just as you describe.  There seems to be a price/feature war 
going on with these printers right now, hence the (relatively) low prices.

Martin

From: Bruce Layne

Some misinformation in Chris' post.

The QIDI Shadow 5.5S has a USB port, just like most 3D printers, but the
lack of an SD card does not imply that data is dribbled across a USB
cable as the printer needs it.  Instead of an SD card, I plug a USB
thumb drive into the Shadow.  There's a very nice graphic touch LCD for
a user interface.  When I select PRINT from the touch screen, the
contents of the USB card are listed in little buttons on the screen.
The writing is too small for my old eyes without magnification, but
there are images of the parts to be printed which is very cool.  Touch
the image I want to print and it prints from the USB thumb drive.

I replaced the supplied (possibly fake) Toshiba thumb drive with a tiny
64GB Sandisk (they're awesome, Gene :-) Cruzer Fit thumb drive (Amazon
ASIN: B07MDXBTL1) that's almost flush with the side of the printer so it
won't snag and banjax the printer's USB port.

On 6/4/20 2:25 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> I looked.   They have their own slicing software that runs on Mac or
> Windows.   The interface is USB only, no SD card.  So on Linux you'd be
> using a virtual machine to host a Windows image and then their software in
> that.  Windows runs well in a VM if the host machine is powerful enough.
>
> I would prefer a printer that accepts SD cards as that is more reliable and
> does not tie up a computer for possibly 20 hours.
>
> Here is a very good unbiased article comparing 3D printer types from a
> company that makes all three types of printers.I would start with FDM
> as it will do 90% of what I want.  Then SLA for the other 20%.  If you
> must have a solid-built FDM printer These guys have that or you  Utilmaker
> printers are well made but at literally 10X the price.
> https://ultimaker.com/learn/comparing-fff-sla-and-sls-technologies
>
> SLA is limited to small parts and is a mess to work (goggles, apron, and
> gloves required) with but worth it if I want to build a mechanical hand
> with 5 tiny motors inside.  The cost of the material is high but if
> only making small parts maybe it does not matter.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:09 AM grumpy--- via Emc-users <
> emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:
>
>>> I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
>> i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
>> what slicing software is needed
>> does it run under linux
>> is the manual available
>> i would like to read up on this
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>>
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

2020-06-04 Thread Bruce Layne

Some misinformation in Chris' post.

The QIDI Shadow 5.5S has a USB port, just like most 3D printers, but the
lack of an SD card does not imply that data is dribbled across a USB
cable as the printer needs it.  Instead of an SD card, I plug a USB
thumb drive into the Shadow.  There's a very nice graphic touch LCD for
a user interface.  When I select PRINT from the touch screen, the
contents of the USB card are listed in little buttons on the screen. 
The writing is too small for my old eyes without magnification, but
there are images of the parts to be printed which is very cool.  Touch
the image I want to print and it prints from the USB thumb drive.

I replaced the supplied (possibly fake) Toshiba thumb drive with a tiny
64GB Sandisk (they're awesome, Gene :-) Cruzer Fit thumb drive (Amazon
ASIN: B07MDXBTL1) that's almost flush with the side of the printer so it
won't snag and banjax the printer's USB port.

On 6/4/20 2:25 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> I looked.   They have their own slicing software that runs on Mac or
> Windows.   The interface is USB only, no SD card.  So on Linux you'd be
> using a virtual machine to host a Windows image and then their software in
> that.  Windows runs well in a VM if the host machine is powerful enough.
>
> I would prefer a printer that accepts SD cards as that is more reliable and
> does not tie up a computer for possibly 20 hours.
>
> Here is a very good unbiased article comparing 3D printer types from a
> company that makes all three types of printers.I would start with FDM
> as it will do 90% of what I want.  Then SLA for the other 20%.  If you
> must have a solid-built FDM printer These guys have that or you  Utilmaker
> printers are well made but at literally 10X the price.
> https://ultimaker.com/learn/comparing-fff-sla-and-sls-technologies
>
> SLA is limited to small parts and is a mess to work (goggles, apron, and
> gloves required) with but worth it if I want to build a mechanical hand
> with 5 tiny motors inside.  The cost of the material is high but if
> only making small parts maybe it does not matter.
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:09 AM grumpy--- via Emc-users <
> emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:
>
>>> I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
>> i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
>> what slicing software is needed
>> does it run under linux
>> is the manual available
>> i would like to read up on this
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>>
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

I looked.   They have their own slicing software that runs on Mac or
Windows.   The interface is USB only, no SD card.  So on Linux you'd be
using a virtual machine to host a Windows image and then their software in
that.  Windows runs well in a VM if the host machine is powerful enough.

I would prefer a printer that accepts SD cards as that is more reliable and
does not tie up a computer for possibly 20 hours.

Here is a very good unbiased article comparing 3D printer types from a
company that makes all three types of printers.I would start with FDM
as it will do 90% of what I want.  Then SLA for the other 20%.  If you
must have a solid-built FDM printer These guys have that or you  Utilmaker
printers are well made but at literally 10X the price.
https://ultimaker.com/learn/comparing-fff-sla-and-sls-technologies

SLA is limited to small parts and is a mess to work (goggles, apron, and
gloves required) with but worth it if I want to build a mechanical hand
with 5 tiny motors inside.  The cost of the material is high but if
only making small parts maybe it does not matter.

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:09 AM grumpy--- via Emc-users <
emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net> wrote:

> > I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
>
> i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
> what slicing software is needed
> does it run under linux
> is the manual available
> i would like to read up on this
>
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

2020-06-04 Thread Bruce Layne

On 6/4/20 12:06 PM, grumpy--- via Emc-users wrote:
>> I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289
>
> i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping

Thanks.  Now I want to buy another one!

> what slicing software is needed

Chitubox.  It seems to be proprietary freeware, which kind of bugs me. 
It's simple and it works fairly well.  I hope it's not sending the
contents of my hard drive to some nefarious website.

https://www.chitubox.com/download.html

> does it run under linux?

Linux, Mac and Windows.  Download link is above.

> is the manual available

I don't know.  It's so easy to use that  I never tried to RTFM.

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Thursday 04 June 2020 13:09:10 Chris Albertson wrote:

> Can you save
> 1) the STL file
> 2) the gcode file
> 3) Then in Cura to File-> and it will save the project file  which has
> all the settings including how you positioned the model on the build
> plate.
>
> I'd look at these fies.

Do you want to see them?
>
> But my guess is this is a data error.  The gcode file is
> gettig corrupted or read wrong by the printer.   This is rare if using
> an SD card but if you are feeding the printer via the USB that it is
> understandable.  It looks like data is being dropped, missing g-codes
> make a mess of the print.
>
>
> One more thing,  It could be that Cura is generating supports inside
> the screw holes. It might not be infill but rather a support
>
No supports enabled that I know of.
> Is the pulley dead-flat?  and you are printing it hub extension up.

No, what you saw was hub face down, so after the raft, should have been 
the bottom, 4mm thick layer, and its not being laid down at all. Twice 
in a row.
> 
> If the model is not in full contact with the plate because perhaps
> there is a ridge or bump that holds some surface off the plat that
> this cross hatching is the base of some support materials.   Cura uses
> a cross hatch as the first layer of support material.
>
yes, thats what you are looking at, I just put it, top side down, raft 
and all, in the scanner.

> If is best if the base of everything you print is a flat plane.   I
> can't tell without a look at the files.
>
> One more thing, for objects like this try "Gyroid" infill type.  It
> makes a 3D patterns like open-cell foam using intersecting sine waves.
>  About 25% is enough for this part.

that is whats selected.
>
> My guess is "data error" is this is done via USB or if there is a
> ridge on the pulley it might be suport but suort is printed in X and Y
> direction not at 45 degrees.  But I don't know the camera angle.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:24 AM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > On Thursday 04 June 2020 08:13:53 andy pugh wrote:
> > > On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 12:20, Gene Heskett 
> > > wrote:
> > >
> > > Preview has a camera view angle that takes the image off the
> > > bottom of
> > >
> > > > the screen, long before the magnification has reached a usefull
> > > > level.
> > >
> > > Shift-drag, Ctrl-drag and Alt-Drag all do different things to the
> > > preview.
> >
> > Crazy. But the build in progress is totally screwed, theres a post
> > of 50% infill where the shaft hole s/b, and the wall around the
> > shaft is missing! Taking the raft off took most of the infill with
> > it because there was no solid bottom or top to a 12mm tall hub that
> > measures 12.5mm tall now.  The only conclusion I can reach is that
> > I've done something to the src file, which I've been doing a save-as
> > to the modified code before handing it off to the slicer each time. 
> > So go back to the original src and start all over.
> >
> > Which I did, but stopped that build when it was obvious it was going
> > to do the same miss-build again.
> >
> > 1. no bottom hub wall
> > 2. no wall around shaft or nut pocket
> > 3. nut pocket 100% infilled
> > 4. middle of whats supposed to be an 8mm shaft infilled
> > 5. Scan attached for the experts perusal, whats fubared in cura?
> >
Being sliced, saved as gcode to the local nc_files, then chowned to root 
and then cp'd to the 8G sd card that came with the printer, after 
mounting it as a vfat partition.

> >  But I think I'll go get the tooth count I need to put the 2nd motor
> > on the Sheldon's Z, and see if I can find an alu sprocket for that.

Ordered, s/b here in a couple weeks.

Thanks Chris.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

Can you save
1) the STL file
2) the gcode file
3) Then in Cura to File-> and it will save the project file  which has all
the settings including how you positioned the model on the build plate.

I'd look at these fies.

But my guess is this is a data error.  The gcode file is
gettig corrupted or read wrong by the printer.   This is rare if using an
SD card but if you are feeding the printer via the USB that it is
understandable.  It looks like data is being dropped, missing g-codes make
a mess of the print.

One more thing,  It could be that Cura is generating supports inside the
screw holes. It might not be infill but rather a support

Is the pulley dead-flat?  and you are printing it hub extension up.If
the model is not in full contact with the plate because perhaps there is a
ridge or bump that holds some surface off the plat that this cross hatching
is the base of some support materials.   Cura uses a cross hatch as the
first layer of support material.

If is best if the base of everything you print is a flat plane.   I can't
tell without a look at the files.

One more thing, for objects like this try "Gyroid" infill type.  It makes a
3D patterns like open-cell foam using intersecting sine waves.  About 25%
is enough for this part.

My guess is "data error" is this is done via USB or if there is a ridge on
the pulley it might be suport but suort is printed in X and Y direction not
at 45 degrees.  But I don't know the camera angle.

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:24 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:

> On Thursday 04 June 2020 08:13:53 andy pugh wrote:
>
> > On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 12:20, Gene Heskett 
> > wrote:
> >
> > Preview has a camera view angle that takes the image off the bottom of
> >
> > > the screen, long before the magnification has reached a usefull
> > > level.
> >
> > Shift-drag, Ctrl-drag and Alt-Drag all do different things to the
> > preview.
>
> Crazy. But the build in progress is totally screwed, theres a post of 50%
> infill where the shaft hole s/b, and the wall around the shaft is
> missing! Taking the raft off took most of the infill with it because
> there was no solid bottom or top to a 12mm tall hub that measures 12.5mm
> tall now.  The only conclusion I can reach is that I've done something
> to the src file, which I've been doing a save-as to the modified code
> before handing it off to the slicer each time.  So go back to the
> original src and start all over.
>
> Which I did, but stopped that build when it was obvious it was going to
> do the same miss-build again.
>
> 1. no bottom hub wall
> 2. no wall around shaft or nut pocket
> 3. nut pocket 100% infilled
> 4. middle of whats supposed to be an 8mm shaft infilled
> 5. Scan attached for the experts perusal, whats fubared in cura?
>
>  But I think I'll go get the tooth count I need to put the 2nd motor on
> the Sheldon's Z, and see if I can find an alu sprocket for that.
>
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

-- 

Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Thursday 04 June 2020 08:13:53 andy pugh wrote:

> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 12:20, Gene Heskett 
> wrote:
>
> Preview has a camera view angle that takes the image off the bottom of
>
> > the screen, long before the magnification has reached a usefull
> > level.
>
> Shift-drag, Ctrl-drag and Alt-Drag all do different things to the
> preview.

Crazy. But the build in progress is totally screwed, theres a post of 50% 
infill where the shaft hole s/b, and the wall around the shaft is 
missing! Taking the raft off took most of the infill with it because 
there was no solid bottom or top to a 12mm tall hub that measures 12.5mm 
tall now.  The only conclusion I can reach is that I've done something 
to the src file, which I've been doing a save-as to the modified code 
before handing it off to the slicer each time.  So go back to the 
original src and start all over.

Which I did, but stopped that build when it was obvious it was going to 
do the same miss-build again.

1. no bottom hub wall
2. no wall around shaft or nut pocket
3. nut pocket 100% infilled
4. middle of whats supposed to be an 8mm shaft infilled
5. Scan attached for the experts perusal, whats fubared in cura?

 But I think I'll go get the tooth count I need to put the 2nd motor on 
the Sheldon's Z, and see if I can find an alu sprocket for that.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

2020-06-04 Thread grumpy--- via Emc-users


I bought a QIDI Shadow 5.5S a few weeks ago for US$289


i see it is available now for $259.00 and free shipping
what slicing software is needed
does it run under linux
is the manual available
i would like to read up on this


___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

2020-06-04 Thread Ralph Stirling

I have contemplated building one with a base/frame made of scrap granite 
countertop material, granite surface plates, or an epoxy/mineral casting.  
Vibration dampening is a good thing.  The high accelerations of marginally 
rigid frames can induce visible artifacts.

We have an fdm printer kit we designed and have freshman engineering students 
build.  These print better parts when sitting on a large, solid workbench than 
they do on a lightweight table.  Instead of T-slot aluminum, these use heavy 
gage stainless steel fabricated for us by a local food equipment manufacturer.

-- Ralph

On Jun 4, 2020 12:04 AM, Bari  wrote:
CAUTION: This email originated from outside the Walla Walla University email 
system.

I only saw more t-slot and plastic hardware type printers. For example:
https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dru5N2d2n_4cdata=02%7C01%7Cralph.stirling%40wallawalla.edu%7Cf44ac78ec5564af6519608d808558064%7Cd958f048e43142779c8debfb75e7aa64%7C0%7C0%7C637268510608718146sdata=728mgNcCDAOl7qoLT1OFO3yre7CSaBh6OT1XmzmQyRM%3Dreserved=0

My spare parts are linear servos and Newport rotary stages:

https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fimgur.com%2FLOriL1ydata=02%7C01%7Cralph.stirling%40wallawalla.edu%7Cf44ac78ec5564af6519608d808558064%7Cd958f048e43142779c8debfb75e7aa64%7C0%7C0%7C637268510608718146sdata=YiWbddZe4BGR1plt6XKCDX%2FkRH2lKCcQJuNk1DEBDic%3Dreserved=0

Is anyone making a FFF/FDM printer that is not a wobbly toy that needs
constant tinkering to keep it somewhat accurate?

On 6/4/20 1:42 AM, Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> Look up Ivan Miranda on YouTube. He's built several 3D printers, some pretty 
> large.
>
>  On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 12:21:37 PM MDT, Bari  
> wrote:
>
> What is the cost down to now in order to build one of average size that
> actually works reliably? What if you don't want to be constantly be
> readjusting, tuning or replacing parts for it to keep working with some
> accuracy and repeatability? Any idea of cost or if anyone makes this?

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://nam05.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Flists.sourceforge.net%2Flists%2Flistinfo%2Femc-usersdata=02%7C01%7Cralph.stirling%40wallawalla.edu%7Cf44ac78ec5564af6519608d808558064%7Cd958f048e43142779c8debfb75e7aa64%7C0%7C0%7C637268510608718146sdata=4pItnNUmFn3fFyEFSq%2BOLjAqbYnRFBO%2FZPsHwZOGuVE%3Dreserved=0

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

2020-06-04 Thread Peter C. Wallace

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020, andrew beck wrote:

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 17:25:58 +1200
From: andrew beck 
Reply-To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"

To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)" 
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

hey peter

I have just been looking at the manual for the 8i20 and it says 2200w 400v
motor power

Thats 400 V maximum DC bus power (you need 1.414 x motor AC voltage) so about 
340 VDC for a 240VAC motor. A 416VAC motor needs about 588VDC

Is that correct?  or is this for the dc power on the output of the drive
and maybe it takes 230v ac three phase line power in?

Yes Its the DC power

slightly confusing.

here in New Zealand all three phase power is 400v so it would be good for
have a drive that I can just plug in without using other transformers etc
regards

Andrew

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 11:19 AM Peter C. Wallace  wrote:

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020, andrew beck wrote:

Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 11:01:44 +1200
From: andrew beck 
Reply-To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"

To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)" 

A 8I20 drive (or STMBL) would run that (6.5A cont is say 20 A peak) but
only at
about 1/2 speed because the 8I20 (and the STMBL) are 230V drives, that
really
needs a 460V drive.

Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Peter Wallace
Mesa Electronics

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination.

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 12:20, Gene Heskett  wrote:

Preview has a camera view angle that takes the image off the bottom of
> the screen, long before the magnification has reached a usefull level.


Shift-drag, Ctrl-drag and Alt-Drag all do different things to the preview.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] Fwd: missing feature of openscad

On Wednesday 03 June 2020 23:05:12 Chris Albertson wrote:

> On Wed, Jun 3, 2020 at 7:33 PM Gene Heskett  
wrote:
> > On Wednesday 03 June 2020 19:17:14 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > > You are going to have to post a photo.  First off, I hope you are
> > > printing these pulleys flat,  With rotational axis vertical.  I
> > > hate to ask but with no photos we don't even know this.
> > >
> > > Assuming you are, the teeth are called "walls" and only if bubbles
> > > are in the plastic would you get voids.Print slower or maybe
> > > cooler. The outer wall layers should run at maybe 30 mm / second.
> > >
> > > Here is a cell-phone shot of a 30T GT2 profile pulley that has
> > > been sitting around on my desk for a couple weeks.  It is dirty
> > > and the flanges need to be cleaned up with a small nail file.
> > > The walls are made in the direction of motion and are smooth
> > > enough.  It is a 3mm tooth pitch by 9mm wide.I think this one
> > > was printed on "draft mode" with 0.2mm layer height.   This is
> > > from an Anet A6 printer with default settings in Cura. A steel hub
> > > goes in the 20mm hole.  THe gear was downloaded from SPD/SI
> > > website than modified in Fusion 360
> > >
> > > [image: IMG_0542.jpg]
> >
> > Thats a heck of a lot nicer looking, and 10x smoother than what I
> > have in my hand from this afternoons run.  That said, an XL belt
> > fits it nicely. So this one is usable for a test fit mock up except
> > the slot for the nut is about a 20% infill.  One might be able to
> > epoxy it to the motor shaft with JBWeld. But despite 2mm walls
> > around the hub, I can feel the elasticity and that bothers me.  And
> > while I can sort of see the solid walls around the nut pocket, I
> > have serious doubts of ever getting a decent grip because it will
> > open up from the outward pressure the nut would exert.
>
> Yes, That is why I make pulleys with a 20 or 24 mm hole.  They get
> epoxied to a steel hub.   Steel hubs are easy to make on a lathe by
> hand.  I use two set scres at 90 degrees.  I could epoxy to the motor
> shaft but then I might want to use the motor later with a different
> pulley.
>
> One thing that does work for a while,  If the motor has a "D" shaft or
> a keyway you can print a D or keyway in the pulley.  D-holes don't
> spin but the loose concentric over time.
>
> There is one more technique I want to try.  Brass thread inserts.  You
> heat these on a solder iron tht press them into a hole. When the
> plastic cools they stick
> amazon.com/Uxcell-a16041800ux0824-Knurled-Thread
> ent/dp/B01IYWTCWW/ref=pd_sbs_60_2/140-9661733-2175833?_encoding=UTF8
>_rd_i=B01IYWTCWW_rd_r=adfaa131-87de-4bc3-9678-232764f895cb_rd_w=U
>5P0Q_rd_wg=rKlV4_rd_p=d9804894-61b7-40b3-ba58-197116cffd9d_rd_
>r=X28MD5MCYFYFCWH10C9X=1=X28MD5MCYFYFCWH10C9X>
>
> If you have access to the backside you can press-fit normal hex nuts
> and embed them into the plastic but these knured nuts press in from
> the front side and might work for gears.   That would be quicker them
> making a steel hub.  Kind of a compromise.   6 cents each.
>
> Finally if you print threads, the wall and skin thrickness setting
> applies to the  plastic around all holes, threaded of not
>
> Use "preview" in Cura to see exactly how each layer will stack up

Preview has a camera view angle that takes the image off the bottom of 
the screen, long before the magnification has reached a usefull level.
Changing its view style does not allow the image to remain on screen in 
either mode.  Its aimed at a point about 160mm above the bed. It needs 
to scroll vertically and doesn't. xray view is blank. But I finally got 
that, but still can't blow it up enough to see. So I increased the wall 
thickness, and reduced the nut height half a mill and fired off another 
make. Sped it up to 100mm too.

> > So I'll probably use this as the motor pulley while I am mocking up
> > the real drive, the next stage being a hubless, larger model, which
> > will be epoxied to a smallish possibly herringboned gear, driving a
> > much higher tooth count matching gear on the worm shaft. The
> > herringbone may get lost in the translation to metal for the final
> > parts though.
> >
> > I set up a "raft" for this one, and made it 15mm bigger than the
> > hub, and it was 30 minutes just laying the raft. 4 layers.  Bed
> > cold, I wiggled the putty knife under it, popped it off, then the
> > raft separated nicely just like cura said it would. I upped the
> > speed to 60mm/sec but I don't think it ever moved that fast. But I
> > think a 5mm skirt would be ok and 20 minutes faster.
> >
> > Now I need to make some parallels so I can lay it down on the mill
> > table without taking out all the lock levers etc, and drill and tap
> > for the axle the intermediate stuff will turn on.  Then make the
> > shaft out of some .500" A2, figuring on some 8mm ID bearings if
> > torrington makes their needle

Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

I don't really know much about it.  there is a big heidenhain service
manual online I found that mentioned it.   apparently there are also extra
boards that allow you to interface a 0-10v signal also which then converts
to PWM in the inverter.  So I bet there are pretty standard.   If I do end
up buying this then I will check it all out and definitely be asking here
for help.  you guys are amazing the way everyone is so helpful

there is a heidenhain service agent here in new zealand that is a good
company to deal with also and they would probably help me with any info I
need.

But I have zero interest in fixing the old control.  not that it is bad but
I have already been down that route before and it is just a pain.  linuxcnc
is amazing once it is set up as you can do anything with it.  and parts are
cheap  and I understand enough now to be comfortable with it

just for everyone's interest here is a very similar machine to what I
currently have and what I am looking at buying for the second machine.
 Only the one I am looking at has dead electronics

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16TQ8mJ7jEkG6OZ7TfgxgSFxu4gopIaLr/view?usp=sharing

regards

Andrew

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 9:06 PM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 09:53, andrew beck  wrote:
>
> > apparently it takes a PWM
> > command from the heidenhain main controller via ribbon cables
>
> Do you know anything about that signal? The Mesa firmware is capable of
> providing a 3-phase PWM, in fact that is exactly the control scheme used by
> the 7i39 servo drives.
> (Ie, it might be possible to drive the original inverter using a firmware
> intended for the 7i39)
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 09:53, andrew beck  wrote:

> apparently it takes a PWM
> command from the heidenhain main controller via ribbon cables

Do you know anything about that signal? The Mesa firmware is capable of
providing a 3-phase PWM, in fact that is exactly the control scheme used by
the 7i39 servo drives.
(Ie, it might be possible to drive the original inverter using a firmware
intended for the 7i39)

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

ah I see thanks for that I couldn't work out how that was supposed to work
so that is not going to happen then on the cnc mill.  guess I will need to
buy chinese servo drives and motors if the existing heidenhain inverter
doesn't work and I can't interface with it.  apparently it takes a PWM
command from the heidenhain main controller via ribbon cables

well I also have a cnc lathe with fanuc 10 m servo motors and a transformer
to make 230v three phase which I could then rectify.  Not that I know how
to do that haha.

the servos on the fanuc lathe are only 1.8 kw so I think I would get away
with it on those.

but the price is quite attractive compared with buying new chinese servo
drives and motors etc.

regards

Andrew

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 8:13 PM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 08:14, andrew beck  wrote:
>
> > So in a nutshell so long as the 8i20 can accept 400v three phase input
> > power I should be OK.
>
>
> The 8i20 takes DC input.
>
> If you rectify 400V three-phase then you will get  565 V.
>
> 400V is the RMS voltage. A rectifier charges the capacitor to the peak
> voltage, which is sqrt(2) higher.
>
> Similarly 230V single phase rectified into a capacitor gives a DC supply of
> 325V. With overhead for braking and transients, this is the design voltage
> for the 8i20 and STMBL.
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
> for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
> ___
> Emc-users mailing list
> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

On Thu, 4 Jun 2020 at 08:14, andrew beck  wrote:

> So in a nutshell so long as the 8i20 can accept 400v three phase input
> power I should be OK.

The 8i20 takes DC input.

If you rectify 400V three-phase then you will get  565 V.

400V is the RMS voltage. A rectifier charges the capacitor to the peak
voltage, which is sqrt(2) higher.

Similarly 230V single phase rectified into a capacitor gives a DC supply of
325V. With overhead for braking and transients, this is the design voltage
for the 8i20 and STMBL.

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is designed
for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

I formulate photopolymers and they are mostly acrylic monomers mixed
with acrylated epoxies or urethanes.

Here are the Radtech recommendations for proper handling:

https://www.radtech.org/health-safety/proper-handling-of-uv-resins

On 6/4/20 2:35 AM, Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

Some of these resins are caustic, the especially nasty ones have a delayed
effect. You think you got it all off your thigh after you whipped your pants
off after spilling resin on your leg. Then a while later...
Just one of the rather ewww images that can be turned up with a search for 3d
printing resin injury.
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/cgs8t1/nsfl_bodily_injury_i_take_back_everything_ive/
Safety first. Never move a resin printer with resin in it. Wear long chemical proof
gloves, a chemical proof apron, and a face shield. Sure you can get by with a pair of 10
mil nitrile gloves and being very very careful, and making sure the dog, cat, kids, and
everyone else that could jostle an elbow is locked out of the room, but having chemical
liquid safety gear is safer. I don't have a resin printer yet, I want one, but really
don't have a need for one yet. I could work with one without going to a high level of
protection, but there are definitely things I'm perfectly willing to observe the fails of
others and go "Nope, not gonna try that just to see if it'll happen to me
too.". I have, for getting close to 40 years, had food and drink next to every
computer I've ever owned and not once have I ever spilled any.

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

Some of these resins are caustic, the especially nasty ones have a delayed
effect. You think you got it all off your thigh after you whipped your pants
off after spilling resin on your leg. Then a while later...
Just one of the rather ewww images that can be turned up with a search for 3d
printing resin injury.
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/cgs8t1/nsfl_bodily_injury_i_take_back_everything_ive/
Safety first. Never move a resin printer with resin in it. Wear long chemical
proof gloves, a chemical proof apron, and a face shield. Sure you can get by
with a pair of 10 mil nitrile gloves and being very very careful, and making
sure the dog, cat, kids, and everyone else that could jostle an elbow is locked
out of the room, but having chemical liquid safety gear is safer. I don't have
a resin printer yet, I want one, but really don't have a need for one yet. I
could work with one without going to a high level of protection, but there are
definitely things I'm perfectly willing to observe the fails of others and go
"Nope, not gonna try that just to see if it'll happen to me too.". I have, for
getting close to 40 years, had food and drink next to every computer I've ever
owned and not once have I ever spilled any.

When I started doing silicone mold making and urethane resin casting ~20 years
ago I bought an elbow length pair of neoprene gauntlets. Turned out I'm
allergic to neoprene. My forearms broke out in little bumps all over. Also
turned out that for *those* materials that level of protection wasn't needed.
Getting the uncured silicone or urethane resin off skin is a sticky job and
requires a bit of soap and scrubbing with a nail brush. Fortunately such
incidents have been very few.

On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 5:13:44 PM MDT, Bruce Layne
wrote:
The resins seem to be UV cured polyurethane or similar. Polyurethanes
have a wide range of physical properties. There are "ABS-like" resins
that are very structural. I believe hockey pucks are made of
polyurethane. The resin printed parts are dense and impact resistant.
One good choice for a structural resin is Siraya Blu, available in
translucent light blue or clear. Most of the resins can be mixed, even
between different companies, to fine tune the physical properties. As
an example, I printed some little bars that are 5mm X 30mm X 60mm from a
generic gray resin that isn't considered to be one of the structural
resins. I'd need some tools to damage it. If I tried to break it with
my hands, I'd only hurt myself.

I'd been waiting for resin printers to decrease in price and for the
parts to be structural rather than "looks like" prototypes and fragile
miniature figurines. It happened while I wasn't watching and was a
pleasant surprise. We're suddenly seeing structural parts from resin
printers appearing everywhere. Here's another advantage over FDM parts
- resin printed parts are solid so they can be used to make fittings and
manifolds for compressed air or liquids.

The flexible resin is very flexible but it has a slow return to its
original shape. I have an application that needs a fast rebound, so
I'll be using the FDM printers to print those parts from TPU filament.

There are plenty of YouTube MSLA videos, and the resins are for sale on
Amazon if you'd like to read some customer reviews.

My only down side to resin printing is washing the uncured resin from
the parts, rinsing them and UV post curing the parts. It's a bit of a
hassle but worth it if you want strong parts printed at high resolution.
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

So in a nutshell so long as the 8i20 can accept 400v three phase input
power I should be OK.

Peter could you please confirm what you meant when you said the stumble and
8i20 only take 220v?

Regards

Andrew

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 6:46 PM andrew beck  wrote:

> Just a update.
> At 3000 rpm with a 16mm pitch ballscrew my max rapids would be 48m/min
>
> So 1500max rpm is fine
>
> Which is 24m/min.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 5:25 PM andrew beck  wrote:
>
>> hey peter
>>
>> I have just been looking at the manual for the 8i20 and it says 2200w
>> 400v motor power
>>
>> Is that correct?  or is this for the dc power on the output of the drive
>> and maybe it takes 230v ac three phase line power in?
>>
>> slightly confusing.
>>
>> here in New Zealand all three phase power is 400v so it would be good for
>> have a drive that I can just plug in without using other transformers etc
>> regards
>>
>> Andrew
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 11:19 AM Peter C. Wallace  wrote:
>>
>>> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020, andrew beck wrote:
>>>
>>> > Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 11:01:44 +1200
>>> > From: andrew beck 
>>> > Reply-To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"
>>> > 
>>> > To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)" <
>>> emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net>
>>> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control
>>> >
>>> > hey gene
>>> >yes it weighs 15 kg
>>> >
>>> >still thinking it would be good to use a 8i20 initial feedback is not
>>> >sounding too good:)
>>> >
>>> >regards
>>> >
>>> >Andrew
>>>
>>>
>>> A 8I20 drive (or STMBL) would run that (6.5A cont is say 20 A peak) but
>>> only at
>>> about 1/2 speed because the 8I20 (and the STMBL) are 230V drives, that
>>> really
>>> needs a 460V drive.
>>>
>>>
>>> Peter Wallace
>>> Mesa Electronics
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> Emc-users mailing list
>>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>>>
>>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

I only saw more t-slot and plastic hardware type printers. For example: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru5N2d2n_4c


My spare parts are linear servos and Newport rotary stages:

https://imgur.com/LOriL1y

Is anyone making a FFF/FDM printer that is not a wobbly toy that needs 
constant tinkering to keep it somewhat accurate?



On 6/4/20 1:42 AM, Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:

Look up Ivan Miranda on YouTube. He's built several 3D printers, some pretty 
large.

 On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 12:21:37 PM MDT, Bari  
wrote:

What is the cost down to now in order to build one of average size that
actually works reliably? What if you don't want to be constantly be
readjusting, tuning or replacing parts for it to keep working with some
accuracy and repeatability? Any idea of cost or if anyone makes this?



___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control

Just a update.
At 3000 rpm with a 16mm pitch ballscrew my max rapids would be 48m/min

So 1500max rpm is fine

Which is 24m/min.

On Thu, Jun 4, 2020, 5:25 PM andrew beck  wrote:

> hey peter
>
> I have just been looking at the manual for the 8i20 and it says 2200w 400v
> motor power
>
> Is that correct?  or is this for the dc power on the output of the drive
> and maybe it takes 230v ac three phase line power in?
>
> slightly confusing.
>
> here in New Zealand all three phase power is 400v so it would be good for
> have a drive that I can just plug in without using other transformers etc
> regards
>
> Andrew
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2020 at 11:19 AM Peter C. Wallace  wrote:
>
>> On Thu, 4 Jun 2020, andrew beck wrote:
>>
>> > Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2020 11:01:44 +1200
>> > From: andrew beck 
>> > Reply-To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)"
>> > 
>> > To: "Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)" <
>> emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net>
>> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] max motor size that a 8i20 can control
>> >
>> > hey gene
>> >yes it weighs 15 kg
>> >
>> >still thinking it would be good to use a 8i20 initial feedback is not
>> >sounding too good:)
>> >
>> >regards
>> >
>> >Andrew
>>
>>
>> A 8I20 drive (or STMBL) would run that (6.5A cont is say 20 A peak) but
>> only at
>> about 1/2 speed because the 8I20 (and the STMBL) are 230V drives, that
>> really
>> needs a 460V drive.
>>
>>
>> Peter Wallace
>> Mesa Electronics
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Emc-users mailing list
>> Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
>> https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
>>
>

___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] LinuxCNC 3Dprinting

Look up Ivan Miranda on YouTube. He's built several 3D printers, some pretty 
large. 

On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 12:21:37 PM MDT, Bari  
wrote:  

 On 6/3/20 1:00 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:

> Printer controllers cost about $40 complete,
> stepper drivers and all and fit in your hand.  The entre printer,
> extruder, controller and all is under $200.  (they have a sale going now.)
>    Seems a waste to spend weeks modifying a mill and milling software t
> make a machine that is not nearly as god as one you can buy for $189

What is the cost down to in mow order to build one of average size that 
actually works reliably? What if you don't want to be constantly be 
readjusting, tuning or replacing parts for it to keep working with some 
accuracy and repeatability? Any idea of cost or if anyone makes this?  
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users

Re: [Emc-users] missing feature of openscad