Re: [hugin-ptx] How does "Straighten" really work?

2024-05-14 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, May 14, 2024 at 12:58:52PM +, 'ChameleonScales' via hugin and other 
free panoramic software wrote:
> Thank you. That answered part of my question.  I'm still wondering how
> it determines the orientation of the panorama though.
> 
> Let's say I take photos with a panoramic head at random y,p,r
> orientations (so there can even be photos taken in portrait format,
> others in landscape and all the in-between angles).  If I stitch them
> in Hugin and then click on "Straighten", will it determine a
> "dominant" orientation so that the equator of the panosphere is
> closest to as many photo centers as possible or will it do something
> else ?
> 
> I may do some tests to understand it better.

I did a quick stare at the source code (namely
hugin_base/algorithms/basic/StraightenPanorama.cpp), and from what I can
tell, it does the following.

All the images in a panorama are iterated over and an "up" vector for
each image is produced based on the local coordinate system of the
image. The "up" vector of each image is processed into a covariance
matrix so that an average / composite "up" vector for the entire
panorama can be calculated. A rotation is then calculated to rotate the
entire panosphere so that its "up" matches this composite "up" of all
the images.

In short, it figures out the way to rotate the whole panorama (without
moving any individual images with respect to each other) such that all
of the individual images are as level as possible.

Note that there are a bunch of caveats mentioned in the code. It
attempts to detect portrait-rotated images based on exif data, so if
that is not present / correct, it will not work.

If any image translation variables are in use, they will not be
accounted for and the straighten will likely fail.

Since it does not move individual images, just the whole pano,
straighten works best on panos that have a good geometric optimization.

And finally, there is the baked-in assumption that leveling the
individual images will actually level the panorama. If the input images
were not shot level with respect to the horizon, then straighten will
not help.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Basic newbie question

2023-08-09 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Aug 08, 2023 at 04:53:41PM -0400, Daniel Md wrote:
> Thanks Sean, that looks quite good. I examined the masks and it seems to me
> the philosophy you used was to segregate out areas of strong lines (where
> discontinuities are easily caught by the eye) to single photos. Is this
> correct?

Yes. In a situation like this where there are unavoidable
discontinuities, my main goal is to find photos where important /
high-detail features are fully visible in a single photo. In this case,
the house was fully in one shot and only partly in another, so I
exclude-masked the partial shot to make sure that the house will all
come from the same photo. In the same vein, I chopped the trees and much
of the water channel out of the three lower shots to make sure those
elements all came from one shot. Enblend does a good job of hiding the
seams in the grass.

In some situations, I've taken this technique  a step farther by adding
the same photo into a pano twice, each with a different set of control
points focused on a different area. This can allow the different areas
of the image to warp differently, which can't happen with all the
control points on a single image. That could potentially help with the
pond in the foreground, since it's too big to have fit all into one
photo. 

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Basic newbie question

2023-08-08 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Aug 08, 2023 at 07:27:17AM +0200, Gunter Königsmann wrote:
> To me it looks like the camera hasn't only changed the angle it shot the 
> images from, but also was moved horizontally, which means that one cannot 
> warp the images in a way that they fit together in all places at once. Often 
> Hugin Manages to move these discontinuities to places where they are hard to 
> see.  But that often requires the images to overlap strongly in order to give 
> hugin more possibilities to place the seams.
> 
> One important thing I had to learn was not to tilt the camera around its 
> center, but around the center of the lens.

I'm inclined to agree with Gunter, it looks like there's some
perspective warping between the photos. It would be best to try and
re-shoot with proper nodal rotation.

That said, you can somewhat recover from these sorts of issues with an
aggressive application of masks to force the seams into less noticeable
spots. The grass is a perfect candidate for this. I took a quick stab at
your pto, check out the results:

https://seangreenslade.com/tmp/2023-08-07/newt.pto

https://seangreenslade.com/tmp/2023-08-07/newt.jpg

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Fit the resulting image as in ACR/PS?

2020-09-20 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 06:40:47AM +0300, Mihai Dobrescu wrote:
> Hi, thanks, is there enough information to try implement such feature?

In theory. But since they did not release any code with the paper, that
would involve a large re-implementation project.

Also, given that it seems to be almost entirely a non-interactive
post-processing step, I would say it would be a better fit as a
standalone application, or perhaps a GIMP plugin.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Fit the resulting image as in ACR/PS?

2020-09-20 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Sun, Sep 20, 2020 at 10:48:38AM -0700, Mihai Dobrescu wrote:
> Hello, I am revisiting this and my problem of understanding how to work 
> with Hugin persists.
> 
> What I need is warping (boundary warping as is it called in Photoshop and 
> possibly MS ICE). Here is some reference: 
> http://kaiminghe.com/sig13/index.html.
> I've read about warping related to Hugin, so I wonder if there's some 
> technique of control points or other to achieve my goal.
> What can I do? What is warping in Hugin?

Hi, Mihai. As mentioned by Frederic in earlier messages, Hugin performs
only uniform geometric transformations to images:

> >> > On Friday, August 9, 2019 at 2:39:53 PM UTC+3, Frederic Da Vitoria 
> >> >> Hugin does something completely different. As far as I know, it always 
> >> >> works on whole images. It applies complex formulas which work 
> >> >> radially, that is all the points at a certain distance of the center 
> >> >> of the image will be affected the same way. In a way, Hugin works like 
> >> >> an optical lens. 

The techniques described in that siggraph paper are non-uniform
transformations. Hugin does not currently have the ability to do such
content-aware non-uniform transforms.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] 4x 12 HDR Panorama for real estate (Multirow)

2020-09-15 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Sep 15, 2020 at 09:03:40AM -0700, Manfred Gloiber wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> I was almost ready to buy PTgui and found Hugin and it looks very mature. 
> Actually too complicated so far ;-)
> 
> My situation:
> - 48 images (HDR merged already but no settings applied except lens 
> correction and removed chromatic abberation)

One suggestion here: you may not want to apply lens correction. Hugin
will calculate lens correction parameters as part of its optimizations,
so you'll get a better final image with fewer processing steps in the
middle. You may still want to apply the chromatic aberration correction,
since I don't believe the hugin photometric correction handles that.

Hugin can also do HDR stack fusing. If you have the time, I'd suggest
giving it a try and seeing how you like the results.

> - All images were shot with a panorama head and fixed nodal point
> - 18mm-28mm Tamron Full Frame Lens, 18mm used but with APS-C crop factor 
> (accidentally)
> - 4 rows, 12 columns, 30°
> - 1 ceiling picture but I think it's not needed because there are enough 
> images
> - Nadir show was bad so it can be skipped or ideally replaced with a logo

This can be done in Hugin, though it's probably best to wait until your
pano is aligned and stitches correctly.

> My goal:
> 360° x 180° HDR panorama for a virtual tour
> 
> Somehow I can't get the control points detection working good enough. In 
> PTgui there is a "Align to Grid" dialog and control points are detected on 
> overlapping images -> is that possible with Hugin, too?

If you get the images roughly alinged (either with a template file or
just manually with the fast preview window), you can use the "Hugin's
CPFind (prealigned)" option. This restricts the cpfind process to only
pairs of images that are overlapped. If your rough alignment is good
enough, you could also use the "control point table" to select all
control points above a reasonably large error value and delete them.

> I mean I know which image is on which position but Hugin doesn't and it 
> finds a lot wrong control points, too.

The control point finder is definitely not perfect. In some really bad
cases (like images with a lot of identical, repeating patterns), you may
need to just manually insert control points.

> Generally the workflow is totally confusing and not clear to me to be 
> honest...
> 
> I hope I just miss some basic step or tutorial :-)

Hugin is very powerful and has a lot of advanced features to give very
fine-grained control over the panorama creation process. Broadly
speaking, my workflow on a project like this might be:

1. Import all the images
2. Open Fast Preview and do a rough alignment by hand
3. Apply any necessary masks (e.g. tripod legs)
4. Perform a CPFind (prealigned)
5. Run the "remove control points in masks" macro
6. Check the quality of the control points in the Fast Preview
7. Cull any obviously bad control points
8. Run a geometric optimizer pass on the "positons and view" setting
9. Check the results, tweak problematic control points
10. Run a geometric optimizer pass on the "everything without
translation" setting
11. Final check on alignment, tweak control points and re-run optimizer
12. Run photometric optimizer on "Low dynamic range" setting (use
variable white balance mode if your camera had AWB set)
13. Choose output format, crop, size, etc. and stitch the pano
14. Go back and tweak things if you find issues with the resulting pano

In general, don't be afraid to just play around with Hugin. Of course,
feel free to come back and ask for more help if you get stuck. 

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Is there a technical term for a tilt all around the panorama?

2020-05-24 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:41:51PM +, 'ChameleonScales' via hugin and other 
free panoramic software wrote:
> What do you call a vertical tilt all around a 360° panorama like this:
> 
> A program I use calls it pitch but that's obviously incorrect, since a pitch 
> would actually look like this:
> 
> Note that I'm not asking how to perform this transformation in Hugin (yet), I 
> would just like to know if there is a term for it in the "panorama-makers" 
> profession.

Technically speaking, they're both pitch. The difference is in what is
being "pitched".

In your first example, the panorama is stationary and the viewer /
camera is having its pitch altered.

In your second example, the panorama itself (assuming a spherical
projection) is being rotated. Assuming you're using the viewer / camera
as the axis reference for this rotation, it would also be correct to
call this a pitch rotation.

If you can describe what you're actually looking to achieve, we might
have better insight. For example, the first animation shows the effect
of cropping the top and bottom of an equirectangular panorama.

The second animation is a little confusing since the grid seems to stay
locked to the camera, but assuming it's just projecting a camera-space
grid onto an invisible spherical panorama that isn't moving, this can be
accomplished with the pitch control in Move/Drag tab of the Fast Preview
window. Hugin's model considers the virtual camera to be still and the
panosphere to rotate around it, but the result is functionally
identical. If you're looking to just capture that center band, you could
reduce the vertical FOV to suit.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: How to email in existing topic

2020-05-06 Thread Sean Greenslade
On May 3, 2020 7:09:08 PM PDT, 'ChameleonScales' via hugin and other free 
panoramic software  wrote:
>Correction: According to [this stackexchange
>post](https://superuser.com/a/1189889), I'm supposed to add a
>reference, not an In-Reply-To.
>When doing this, the line stayed after the email was sent. However, it
>should have popped up right above this present post and clearly it
>didn't.
>
>This is the Line I added:
>
>References:
>
>
>Any idea what I'm doing wrong?

You need In-Reply-To, which should point only to the post's direct parent MID. 
References should contain a list of other, older MIDs in the thread, but I 
don't think it's strictly necessary.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Planar camera motion stitching

2019-12-24 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Mon, Dec 23, 2019 at 02:31:25PM -0800, Slastunov Dmitry wrote:
> Hello!
> 
> I need to make hi-MP scans of flat herbarium sheets (~ A3 size) without 
> touching them, and i've made a rig with a still camera with 50 mm zeiss 
> lens and rails with a platform under it for this purpose. So herbaium sheet 
> can move across it and i make 3 shots of it and then stitch them. 
> Non-linearity of movement is less than 1 mm. In my case i can't bye a 
> 35000$ scanner for one-shot scanning.
> 
> I tried to use Kolor Autopano, Hugin and Image Composite Editor (ICE) and a 
> got good results only in ICE, but sometimes (1-2% of scans) it can make a 
> 0.2-0.5 mm "step" in several places in resulting image. Usually it makes 
> steps in long lone stalks.
> 
> I'm wondering - a hugin is so complex and tunable software, but why i 
> couldn't get any good results from it. Of course i need fully automated 
> batch processing. Is it possible and if it is what settings i should check? 
> I made more then 1 stitches in ICE and almost everytime the quality was 
> good, but i want to increase it if it's possible.
> 
> Here is a example of 3 images made on old rails with not so good linearity 
> of movement, but it's below 2mm i think: : https://dropmefiles.com/WSD5t
> 
> Thanks in advance for your reply.

Hello. I recently used Hugin for a similar project, so here's some
notes and thoughts.

Here's an example of one of my scans: https://dumbpic.link/manu/idp/020.png

That scan contained three source photos. I used a setup with a tripod on
a table looking down and a sheet of glass holding one section of the
sheet flat. If your documents are already flat, you may not need the
glass. I had a couple of softbox lights arranged carefully to prevent
glare on the glass.

I shot in raw and processed one shot manually in ufraw, then used that
as a template to batch process the rest of the raws with the same
settings. I went with 8-bit output since HDR was not necessary for these
documents.

Because each photoset was positioned differently, I had to do some
amount of manual processing for each document. If your rig is extremely
repeatable, you might be able to make a good starting template, but I
usually find that some level of manual correction is almost always
required.

On each image set, I place a couple of horizontal and vertical control
lines on the paper edges on two end images. These help Hugin find the
right perspective correction. I then manually placed ~10 control points
on each seam. I did this manually becuase the auto control point
generator didn't work well on these documents. You can try your luck
with the auto control points, maybe it will work better for you. You may
have to remove control points that land outside of the document.

For optimization, I used the custom parameters mode. For image 0,
optimize y, p, and r only. For the rest of the images, optimize
y, p, r, TrX, TrY, and TrZ. For the lens, I optimized v, a, b, c, d, and
e. If you have a lens model that you know is good, you can just use that
and not optimize the lens.

Because my images were shot at an angle, I ended up exclude masking the
far edges of the two end images to make sure Hugin used the
higher-resolution middle image for that section of the stitch. That may
not have been necessary, but if you're getting artifacts in the stitch
it can help.

Once the optimize came out well, I set the projection to rectilinear,
tweaked the FOV and crop of the output, and rendered the final stitch.

Hopefully this gives you some ideas to start with. Feel free to share a
.pto if you're having trouble getting a stitch to come out cleanly.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Output changes using same saved .pto file

2017-12-16 Thread Sean Greenslade
On December 16, 2017 5:22:08 AM PST, J Harvey  
wrote:
>Lets see if this works. 
>
>I opened a saved .pto, and ran stitch three times without changing 
>anything, and it produced three different images.
>
>
> 
>
>>  
>>
>>

Enblend has the --save-masks and --load-masks option so that you can reuse the 
same source masks across different blends. But even so, I believe the actual 
blending seam (and seam width) is still driven by analysis of the input images, 
so I'm not sure if it's possible to get the same exact stitch with different 
image files.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Getting Hugin interface to display decimal angular values ( not truncated) in assembly tab

2017-11-08 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Wed, Nov 08, 2017 at 10:44:12AM +0100, Fabrice Kerzerho wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> No, I mean displaying decimal angular values for the whole panorama, not
> for each photos; I work in expert mode with a French interface - I may have
> done a bad translation. I need accurate angular values to conform a
> topographic grid on a panorama, I have to work with decimal values.

OK, I think you're referring to the Stitcher tab. Indeed, it does seem
to force a rounding to the nearest 0.1 degree. However in my tests, it's
purely a display thing. The actual values internally are full precision
doubles, so if you type 65.623 into the box, it will use that exact
number.

If you want to change the display behavior, you'll have to recompule
Hugin. The relevant lines are in src/hugin1/hugin/PanoPanel.cpp, in the
PanoPanel::UpdateDisplay function:

> ...
> val = hugin_utils::doubleToString(opt.getHFOV(),1);   
>  
> m_HFOVText->ChangeValue(wxString(val.c_str(), wxConvLocal));  
>  
> val = hugin_utils::doubleToString(opt.getVFOV(), 1);  
>  
> m_VFOVText->ChangeValue(wxString(val.c_str(), wxConvLocal));  
>  
> ...

The second argument in doubleToString is how many decimals to show in
the text box. Increasing that should cause the UI to show more decimal
points.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Getting Hugin interface to display decimal angular values ( not truncated) in assembly tab

2017-11-07 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Nov 07, 2017 at 12:58:57AM -0800, FabKzo wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> Could it be possible to perform this type of modification in the interface ?
> 
> In fact I need complete angular datas with decimal values  to work on 
> panoramas I produce; while all decimal values are considerated  to 
> calculate panoramas pixel width and height with no problem ( I can apply a 
> roll modification of 0.01° , or make a panorama of 32,1 ° vertical angle ), 
> I find those values to be rounded too quickly in the interface.
> 
> How can I modify this behavior?

Can you be a more specific about what you're trying to accomplish?
Manually editing image positions / angles is a somewhat unusual way of
using Hugin. Is the optimizer not producing good results for you?

I don't know of any "assembly" tab in Hugin, and the only tab that
contains angle data for the individual images is the optimizer tab. If
you right click on an image in the optimizer tab list, you can click
"edit image variables" and view / set the decimal values to their full
precision. 

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Hugin - get image that overlap specified pixel location in the final stitched image

2017-11-06 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Mon, Nov 06, 2017 at 08:46:40AM -0800, Avner Moshkovitz wrote:
> I want to know which image(s) was used to render a pixel based on the pixel 
> location in the final stitched image.
> Is this possible?

If you read through the man page for enblend, there are a few options
that might interest you:

--save-masks
--visualize

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Problems with stitching a GigaPano ...

2017-11-02 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Thu, Nov 02, 2017 at 12:42:36PM -0700, jojaeger12031...@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks for your reply.
> Yeah I've readed just in the moment, that it is deprecated.
> 
> Exsample from Enblend:
> http://enblend.sourceforge.net/gigapixel.htm
> 
> Here the machine just have 2GB RAM and it works for a bigger solution.
> 
> Or is this a different version of enblend?

That article is apparently from 2004 and references version 2.0. I would
imagine there have been significant changes since then. Also, it uses
only 2 source images that contain solid rectangles of color. The seam
finder isn't gonna do much with those.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Problems with stitching a GigaPano ...

2017-11-02 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Thu, Nov 02, 2017 at 12:20:51PM -0700, jojaeger12031...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi Gunter,
> I also see, that the RAM could be to less.
> But for this thing, it would be perfect, when i could activate image-cache 
> option.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Johannes

The image-cache feature was deprecated in 4.1 and removed in 4.2. But I
believe it was just a cache on the input images, so it wouldn't have
really helped in your scenario.

I think you have two options. One, add more RAM / switch to a machine
with more RAM. Or two, stitch smaller portions of the pano separately
and then merge them. You could try stitching a cubemap (6x rectilinear
cube faces) instead of a full equirect pano.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Improvements needed for my technique

2017-10-29 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 03:49:04AM -0700, Bob Hanson wrote:
> I just completed my first freelance project for a local church and am not 
> 100% happy with my photos. Here is my tour:
> 
> http://bhimagery.com/photos/church360/
> 
>  I use a Sony a7rii, Rokinon 12 mm fisheye, nodal ninja and I do my best to 
> level the darn thing. The way I take my 360s is a series of portrait pics. 
> I angle my camera pointed 30 degrees up and take one picture and rotate my 
> camera 60 degrees until 360 degrees is achieved, then another row of 
> pictures with the camera angled down 30 degrees. I then run it through 
> Hugin. If you look closely to every pic, you will see seams. Any 
> suggestions on a better technique is appreciated. The 12 mm has a FOV of 
> 180 degrees, however it doesn't completely capture the zenith and nadir, 
> hence the need to angle my camera 30 degrees twice. I've seen people leave 
> the camera at zero (horizontal), take one row of pics, the a couple 
> straight up in the air and a couple on the ground, however I can never seem 
> to do that correctly. Any advice is appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bob

I'll start by saying that these are very good panos. I don't see very
many obvious stitching artifacts, and the ones I do see are only
apparent when zooming in. So good job so far, you're definitely 95%
there.

First off, I wouldn't spend too much time trying to ensure everything is
perfectly level / plumb in the camera & tripod. That's stuff that can
easily be corrected in the stitch. Instead, spend that time making sure
your camera & bracket are tuned to the no-parallax point. The best
resouce I know of for explaining this is:

http://www.johnhpanos.com/epcalib.htm

Though it seems to be offline at the moment. Hopefully it's just a
temporary server problem.

Generally speaking, to correct seam errors as small as the ones I see in
your panos, you'll need to do some manual tweaking of the control
points. Sometimes I'll also use exclude regions to crop out problematic
regions from particular photos. For example, there's a few small
glitches on the street curb in your first pano. If you crop out the curb
in one of the photos, you can force the seam to happen in the grass,
where it's much less likely to be noticable. I talk about this in my
sadly-incomplete stitching tutorial here:

http://seangreenslade.com/projects/pano/3-stitching.html

Specifically check out the "Hiding the Seams" section for an example of
what I mentioned above.

Your zenith and nadir points actually look really good. Whatever you're
doing seems to be working. Don't spend too much time worrying about
those, because people will rarely spend any time staring at them.

If you'd like to share one of your photo sets + .pto file (on dropbox or
something like that), I'd be happy to take a closer look and see if
there's anything else I can recommend.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Reading pictures from 360° cameras

2017-09-18 Thread Sean Greenslade
On September 18, 2017 8:00:02 AM PDT, 'Hadmut' via hugin and other free 
panoramic software  wrote:
>
>
>Am Montag, 18. September 2017 15:46:34 UTC+2 schrieb Bruno Postle:
>>
>> Yes, you can stitch these files in Hugin using existing features. 
>>
>> The trick is to 
>>
>
>
>There's always tricks, and workarounds, and manual interaction. But
>then 
>it's easier to have a script that splits the image instead of
>mousework.
>
>I would prefer to just read it straight on and have the software do
>this 
>work. 

The nice thing is that once you have a working .pto, you can reuse it for every 
photo you take with that camera. You only need to do that work once.

--Sean


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Re: [hugin-ptx] Blending Issue?

2017-07-10 Thread Sean Greenslade
On July 10, 2017 2:04:43 PM PDT, Liz Wade  wrote:
>
>
>Hi guys, new to Hugin. I've always used Photoshop for pano stitching.
>After 
>a first run, I get this in the final pano...strange blending between 
>photos, like a ghosting effect. I've searched online and looked through
>all 
>the tools in Hugin. Is this a simple error I'm making? 
>
>
>Photo here: https://goo.gl/photos/ZoDmWeGjLneDU1SZ6
>
>
>Thanks!

That looks to me like you haven't done lens distortion optimization. That's 
quite important, especially if you're using a fisheye lens.

--Sean


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Re: [hugin-ptx] Newbie: Hugin - Fixing horizontal lines and general advice on panoramic stitch

2017-06-03 Thread Sean Greenslade
Hi, Stephen. I took a crack at your pano, see my comments below:

On Fri, Jun 02, 2017 at 03:00:25PM -0700, 'Stephen Hartley' via hugin and other 
free panoramic software wrote:
> Total newbie question here, thanks in advance for any tips on how to 
> improve my first hugin stitch.  Taken using a tripod and rotating ball 
> head, with standard rectilinear lens. No effort was made to rotate around 
> the no-parallax point, I don't know how significant this is for my pano?

It will matter for the fence, since that gets pretty close to the
camera. In general, the closer something is to the lens, the more
parallax effect you get.

> Source jpegs:
> 
> 1 
> 2 
> 3 
> 4 
> 5 

One of the images in the .pto seems to be missing from this list.

> Stitched with Hugin 2016.2.0.be8da0221960 on Mac.  
> 
> Spent a day experimenting with hugin, and this is my best result: output 
>  using this pto 
> project file. 
> 
> 
> Could anyone more experienced give me some pointers on how to fix the 
> following:
> 
>1. Horizon line, particularly at the top of the sea - I added a 
>horizontal line but this has caused the whole image to slant towards the 
>left.

I tend to prefer using vertical lines. Take things like lightpoles, and
add a few vertical lines spaced out across the pano. The horizontal line
of the land-water horizon is also useful. I added one horizontal line
and three vertical lines, which worked pretty well.

>2. Areas of yellow paving have curved edges.  Again, these should be 
>horizontal, I added a horizontal line, but this does not seem to have had 
>the desired effect - the edges should be parallel to the horizontal edges 
>(top and bottom) of the image.

That is due to the projection you're using. If preserving straight lines
is important, try a different projection, like Panini.

>3. Four noticeable stitching artefacts: two on the grey railings (fence) 
>in front of the black car, one on the bicycle path, immediately to the 
> left 
>of the painting of the bicycle wheel, and again on the sea horizon line, 
>quite a bump about a quarter of the way into the image from the left edge. 
> I struggled to add more manual control points for the sea joint and 
> wonder 
>if this might be causing the problem, if so, any known workaround?

I masked out the fence from the first picture, since it's causing the
most parallax. I also dropped all control points that were in that
region of that photo. Try to favor control points on farther-away
objects when you have parallax issues.

Also make sure to remove control points on clouds / moving objects.

Once all your control points and masks are in order, you can change the
optimizer to calculate view and distortion as well. Under the photos
tab, start stepping down the geometric optimizations dropdown. Do each
in sequence, checking on the pano each time you optimize (make sure
nothing explodes). Stop at "Everything without translation".

I also duplicated the farthest-right image, and masked the sky in one
and the land in the other. Then I added control points only to those
regions. This will allow the blender to find a seam in the pebbles of
the beach, where it's less likely to cause a visible artifact.

I also ran the photometric optimization to correct some of the color
variations in the images. Even with all the settings on manual, the
camera's RAW to JPG conversion introduces some variations in the color
between the images. I noticed this mostly in the blacktop of the road.

Here's what I managed to come up with after playing with this for about
half an hour:

http://seangreenslade.com/tmp/output.jpg

And here's the PTO:

http://seangreenslade.com/tmp/output.pto

Let me know if you have any questions.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Will this S/W inprove this image?

2017-03-18 Thread Sean Greenslade
On March 18, 2017 11:38:33 AM PDT, Halclup  wrote:
>Before I download, will this S/W improve this image?

If you are trying to repair a single image, I would suggest a traditional photo 
manipulation program like GIMP or Photoshop.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] YPR drone vs YPR hugin

2017-01-27 Thread Sean Greenslade
On January 26, 2017 11:46:11 AM PST, jose.martinez@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
>Greetings,  About Yaw Pitch and Roll, I would like to know , what is
>the 
>relationship between YPR of the drone with YPR hugin's values?
>
>
>JMar

Hugin generally speaking obeys the standard airplane definitions, like so:

http://thedemonthrone.ca/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/rollpitchyaw.png

You'll need to check your specific drone's software to see if it follows the 
same definitions.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Yaw PItch and Roll Vs Hugin

2017-01-24 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Mon, Jan 23, 2017 at 06:19:13PM -0800, jose.martinez@gmail.com wrote:

> > >How does hugin use the drone's YPR values ? 
> > >How does hugin get YPR values after alignment? 
> > > 
> > >How can I manually calculate the values of YPR that gets hugin? 
> > > 
> > >Thanks for your answers. 
> > >JMartinez 
> >
> > If I recall correctly, the YPR values are 
> > used only for regular nodal panos. 
> > Mosaic uses a different set of parameters. 
>
> thanks; If that were the case, how does hugin calculate them?

This is the best explanation I can find for how the mosaic projections
work:

http://wiki.panotools.org/Stitching_a_photo-mosaic

I was mistaken when I said y/p/r is not used for mosaic. Yaw and pitch
are generally not used for flatbed scan mosaics, but they would
definitely be used for stitching, say, aerial photographs.

I would love it if someone more familiar with the mathematics could give
an explanation of what Tpy and Tpr actually mean in the context of the
geometric image remapping. Are they intended to be used with mosaics?
The fast preview doesn't seem to think so.

As for how Hugin actually calculates the values of all the variables it
is optimizing, that is more of an abstract mathematical problem. You
have a many-variable, many-equation problem that is (in most projects)
overconstrained. The problem uses non-linear functions, so a
least-sqaures fitting process is used. If you want a general concept
overview, check this article:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-linear_least_squares

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Yaw PItch and Roll Vs Hugin

2017-01-19 Thread Sean Greenslade
On January 19, 2017 10:00:39 AM PST, jose.martinez@gmail.com wrote:
>Greetings, I have done some tests with HUGIN trying to get mosaics, but
>I 
>have some doubts about the Yaw/pitch/ roll parameters, the end result 
>(mosaic) is the same either with the drone's  Y/P/R that when I put
>values 
>of Y/P/R = 0. 
>
>Then I ask:
>How does hugin use the drone's YPR values ?
>How does hugin get YPR values after alignment?
>
>How can I manually calculate the values of YPR that gets hugin?
>
>Thanks for your answers.
>JMartinez

If I recall correctly, the YPR values are
used only for regular nodal panos.
Mosaic uses a different set of parameters.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] hugin dev branch: enblend 4.3 too slow

2016-12-28 Thread Sean Greenslade
On December 28, 2016 1:10:51 PM EST, Gnome Nomad  wrote:
>Yes, enblend 4.3 is noticeably slower than 4.1.4. Don't know why.
>Wouldn't
>say so slow as to need downgrading, though.

The image cache feature was removed in 4.2. It's possible if your system has 
insufficient ram, the lack of image cache would cause your system to thrash its 
swap space.

Take a look at the release notes to see other potential problem changes:

http://hg.code.sf.net/p/enblend/code/file/a7a247e1e64b/NEWS

--Sean


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Re: [hugin-ptx] program wont open (iOS)

2016-12-28 Thread Sean Greenslade
On December 28, 2016 2:32:37 PM EST, MK  wrote:
>Hi,
>
>I am new to this software, but after downloading it and attempting to
>open 
>it, rather than opening it merely brings up a debugging window. Can
>someone 
>help me open the program?
>
>Thanks,
>Michael

As far as I'm aware, there's no iOS port of Hugin. Can you provide more details 
as to what version of Hugin you are using, where you downloaded it, what 
platform / OS you are on, and the text of any errors / dialogs you get?

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Why is part of the stitched image black?

2016-12-24 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Fri, Dec 23, 2016 at 04:50:37AM -0800, Peter Cooper wrote:
> > Looking more generally at the resulting stitched map, I think 
> > you need to change your shooting slightly. 
> >
> > The aperture is wide open, resulting in distinct softness at the edges 
> > of the images; experiment with small apertures to see where the 
> > sweet spot for sharpness is. Since you're using a tripod 
> > and timer-release, long exposure times aren't a problem. 
> >
> Thanks for the advice.  I am no photographer so I just used the point and 
> click automatic feature.  You are right to suggest that I need to get more 
> technical in order to get better quality images. I will experiment.
> 
> > And the images are quite under exposed; the whites are showing as 
> > 56% in Gimp! 
> >
> I am not sure what this means, and what I should do about it?

A camera sensor has a specific range of brightness values that it can
record. Think about it like a 0%-100% scale (ignoring color for the
moment). Pure black is 0%, pure white is 100%. Based on the settings of
the camera (ISO, aperture, shutter speed), real world brightnesses will
be translated to these sensor percentages. Ideally, you want the
brightest part of your scene to hit the 100% brightness sensor value (or
something very close, like 95%). In your images, the brightest part of
the scene only hits ~55% brightness, so the other 45% of the sensor's
range is not used.

To remedy this, you can either switch to manual mode and play with the
settings (longer exposure, wider aperture, higher ISO) to get a brighter
image, or if you want to stick to automatic, you can set the exposure
value (EV) target higher.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Hugin multiple conversion

2016-10-10 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Mon, Oct 10, 2016 at 01:38:59PM -0700, Tomasz wrote:
> Hi, i need help,
> 
> a have folder with TIF files named 001, 002, 003... ... and so on... 
> i need to edit each file using hugin like so:
> 
> input parameters:
> lens - 8mm
> crop - x3
> 
> output parameters:
> projection - panini
> export - TIF with same resolution as original (no auto crop - i wan't to 
> preserve black fields)
> 
> can someone tell me how can i do it automaticly/batch/script, not one by 
> one? :(
> 
> Cheers
> 
> PS: please just don't tell me  "write a script" - i have no idea how to do 
> it... :(
> 
> Software: latest Hugin, Windows 7

Well, if all you're doing is applying the same operation to a bunch of
different images, you can use one .pto file created by hand in Hugin,
and simply run it over and over with different source images each time.
A script would probably be the easiest way to accomplish this (along
with the Hugin batch processor), but if you're unfamiliar or
uncomfortable with scripting languages on your platform, you can do one
of two things:

1. Edit the .pto file and swap in the new file name after each
iteration.

2. Copy each photo into the directory with the .pto in turn, giving them
the same name as the original image. Then rename / move the resulting
image, and move in the next image.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: optimizer tab

2016-09-29 Thread Sean Greenslade
On September 28, 2016 7:46:20 AM EDT, 'JKEngineer' via hugin and other free 
panoramic software  wrote:
>Yaw is rotation about the vertical axis - essentially the "compass" 
>direction. 
>Roll is rotation about the horizontal front to rear axis - essentially
>tilt 
>around the lens - what Sean described, but called it yaw. 
>Pitch is rotation about the horizontal side to side axis - whether the
>lens 
>is pointing up or down.  
>
>JK

Sorry, yes, I had a complete brainfart. I described roll in my previous mail. 
Yaw is equivalent to panning on a fixed tripod, and pitch is equivalent to up 
and down tilt on a fixed tripod.

I imagined there being confusion with regards to roll since it's not a motion 
that's easy to accomplish on a tripod.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] optimizer tab

2016-09-27 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Sep 27, 2016 at 06:32:11PM -0700, Michael Havens wrote:
> Thanks for showing me how to get to it. Now I need to know how to figure 
> out the yaw, pitch, and roll. I mean I have some images loaded but... I 
> think i figured it out. How does it rotate yaw though? I understand roll 
> and pitch I think. Help me understand.

Yaw is simply the "twist" of the camera. Holding the camera in normal
landscape mode is yaw=0, and when you hold the camera in portrait mode,
your yaw=90. Makes sense?

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] more photos?

2016-09-27 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Sep 27, 2016 at 04:25:32PM -0700, Michael Havens wrote:
> I did a pano of a room (not 360). I did the room in 3 or 4 shots. In the 
> resulting pano 
> (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2xvsVTZy4y1R2ZSQUdmaFZsTGc) you could 
> see the seams. If I were to do the pano with more photos than 4 would that 
> negate the seam or at least make them less noticeable?

I usually maintain 40% overlap between shots. This allows lots of room
both for control points and for enblend to work its magic. But
typically seams become visible either due to parallax, or insufficient
optimization / incorrect control points. Make sure your mean control
point distance is below one pixel, and if it's not, take a look at the
control points that are the farthest off.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Multi row product panoramas

2016-09-20 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Sep 20, 2016 at 06:09:25PM -0300, Phillip Allen-Baines wrote:
> Fantastic, thankyou.
> 
> Ok I am not sure how to put my replies below the quoted text. But trying.

This is just standard mailing list etiquette. You should generally also
trim your reply quotes to only what is necessary to glean context from.
See how I formatted this reply as an example.

> Is there a program that I can use to assemble multi row 360 views.
> 
> I have a program that does single row 360's (fly arounds) as well as the
> automated hardware that comes as an automated product photography package
> and I sell the imagery commercially.

See Carl's reply for one such program. I have never used it myself, but
it appears to be what you want.

> As such I apologise for any incorrect terms however my focus is not verbage
> it is simply to find a program that can assemble a presentation of a multi
> row 360 that, when it (the program) pumps out an HTML5 or flash image,
> enables the viewer to see 360 x 360.

If you want good answers, then effective communication is critical.
Especially since nearly all the members of this list are volunteers. If
people can't understand what you're asking, they are less likely to
respond.

> That to me means all the way around on more than one plane, like a
> spherical panorama but *viewed from the outside* of the sphere.
> 
> Take for example a shoe. I want to be able to look all the way around that
> shoe along its horizontal plane as well as its vertical plane so I can see
> the top and bottom as if I am holding it in my hand. UX stuff you know. Its
> all about UX in online sales.

I can definitely understand why you might think to use the term like
that, however in the world of panoramic photography (which turntable
imagery is not really a part of), spherical images have a very specific
meaning that is different from what you are looking for.

In general, if you're unsure of how to describe what you want, it's
better to provide a concrete example. Give a link to a webpage that has
one of these object viewers on it. That way, it's not confusing and you
needn't worry about improper terminology.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Multi row product panoramas

2016-09-20 Thread Sean Greenslade
> > Can you be more specific? Perhaps provide an example of what you are
> > trying to do.
> >
> > In general, there are two types of panoramas: spherical and mosaic. If all
> > the photos are taken from the same point in space, it is spherical. If the
> > camera moves (e.g. with aerial photography), it is mosaic.
> >
> > Now, you don't need to do a full sphere for it to be a spherical pano.
> > Doing a single row of photos is a partial sphere.
> >
> > Multi-row (or multi-column) partial spheres are quite possible in Hugin
> > with the same techniques as full spheres.
>
> Hi Sean
> 
> Thank you very much for your answer, I appreciate you spending time to help
> me as a complete stranger. It looks like somehow I did not post my full
> question. I would like to learn how to do full spherical 360's of products.
> 
> By this I mean placing an object on a turntable and taking photographs as
> it rotates. I currently have a Chinese system and it is in Chinese but also
> does not support multi-row stitching.
> 
> Multi-row stitching should enable me to create a 3d kind of effect so a
> viewer can see the object in 360 x 360 however does not require CAD. Can I
> make this in Hugin? or do you know some open source program I can do this
> with?
> 
> Again, thanks in advance to all and everyone.

Please make sure to reply-all to keep the mailing list in the loop, and
also try to put your replies below the quoted text.

Turntables are completely different from panoramas. The way they work is
by switching between separate, descrete images like a video does. You
cannot "stitch" these images because there is nothing to stitch; they
are each of a different perspective.

Panorama stitching is basically the act of simulating having a wider
lens (or in the case of mosaics, a larger flatbed scanner). A turntable
360, on the other hand, simulates flying a camera around an object.

There is a technique called slit-scan that may be causing some
confusion, as it technically is a form of panorama, however I do not
think it is what you want:

http://petapixel.com/assets/uploads/2016/03/slitscanhead.jpg

In short, you can't stitch turntable flyarounds. You just need a viewer
that can play your normal images in sequence.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Multi row product panoramas

2016-09-20 Thread Sean Greenslade
On September 20, 2016 2:51:29 PM EDT, Phillip Allen-Baines 
 wrote:
>I assume this is like a spherical 360 but viewed from the outside of
>the 
>sphere. Can anyone tell me how to make these? Is it possible with
>Hugin? or 
>is there some software that I can be guided to? I guess my searchterms
>are 
>poor because I cant find anything opensource.
>
>Thanks in advance Ladies and Gentlemen
>:-)

Can you be more specific? Perhaps provide an example of what you are trying to 
do.

In general, there are two types of panoramas: spherical and mosaic. If all the 
photos are taken from the same point in space, it is spherical. If the camera 
moves (e.g. with aerial photography), it is mosaic. 

Now, you don't need to do a full sphere for it to be a spherical pano. Doing a 
single row of photos is a partial sphere.

Multi-row (or multi-column) partial spheres are quite possible in Hugin with 
the same techniques as full spheres.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] hugin shouldn't stitch in root.

2016-09-14 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Thu, Sep 15, 2016 at 09:56:08AM +1000, Greg 'groggy' Lehey wrote:
> On Wednesday, 14 September 2016 at 11:47:18 -0700, Michael Havens wrote:
> > FYI- I killed hugin with the notice that I was running out of space and:
> > $ df /
> > Filesystem 1K-blocks Used Available Use% Mounted on
> > /dev/sdb1   23638908 14634544   7780532  66% /
> 
> This would suggest that you have used up nearly 8 GB of storage for
> your panorama.  That seems excessive.  Is it really that big?

That's not an unreasonable number. Hugin uses uncompressed TIFFs as
intermediary files, so a full sphere at normal SLR focal lengths could
have 30-60 intermediary files. Even more if you do exposure stacks. I
routinely exceeded my 16 GiB of RAM doing 3x15000 px 3-stack blends. 

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] hugin shouldn't stitch in root.

2016-09-14 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 10:22:56PM +, Gnome Nomad wrote:
> Hmm, I've used Hugin on Linux for years now and it has NEVER attempted to
> do anything in root. It has always written temp files to /tmp, and remapped
> images to the folder containing the pto file.

I'm assuming the OP doesn't have /tmp mounted specially, so anything
that goes into /tmp is going onto the root filesystem. I know some
distros behave this way. IIRC, Fedora made /var/tmp a ramdisk but left
/tmp a normal dir.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] hugin shouldn't stitch in root.

2016-09-14 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 01:37:31PM -0700, Michael Havens wrote:
> $  TMPDIR=$PWD hugin_executor --stitching rend.pto could not open script : 
> /home/bmike1/hugintmp/rend.pto

This was just an example, clearly you'll need to modify the line to run
your specific job. See the hugin_executor man page for details on its
arguments.

The way I've shown here, the environment variable is only set for that
command invocation. If you would like to set it more permanently, add it
to your shell init (e.g. ~/.bashrc for bash).

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] hugin shouldn't stitch in root.

2016-09-14 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Wed, Sep 14, 2016 at 11:43:17AM -0700, Michael Havens wrote:
> I am trying to create a 360X180 panorama. As it stitches the images 
> together though it runs out of room. Root in this system is finite. /home 
> in this system is enormous. Why does hugin stitch things together in / 
> rather than /home. How do I get around this problem?

If I recall correctly, the only reason Hugin would write files outside
of your destination directory is when temporary files are written. By
default it uses /tmp, however you can change that with the TMPDIR
environment varible like so:

$ cd /home/user/pano
$ TMPDIR=$PWD hugin_executor --stitching rend.pto


--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Stitching untypical photo objects (reflective, people, analog scans)

2016-09-05 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Sun, Sep 04, 2016 at 04:55:49PM -0700, Abrimaal wrote:
> I attach the .pto file and the image resized to 900px wide, the original is 
> about 5MB 3456 x 2304 px. The name of the 2nd file is the same, with _COP 
> at the end.
> 
> The car was photographed not directly from its centre, you can see my 
> reflection in the rear door. That made the front of the car smaller than 
> the rear. I want to fix it using mathematical metods of Hugin, by 
> straightening the V and H lines and angles of the building behind. This is 
> a kind of perspective that requires to be adjusted mainly horizontally.
> Sometimes I use GIMP for adjusting perspective of architecture, but this is 
> a very arbitrary method. The grid in GIMP that is distorted together with 
> the image, does not help with the work (as the whole freaky UI of GIMP). 
> Since I had started to use Hugin to straighten buildings mathematically 
> with surprisingly good results, I am trying to use this method for cars 
> with buildings or other vertical lines behind. If I make the lines of the 
> windows and the angles straight, the car should return to its real 
> proportions.

OK, I had a play with your image and project. Here are my suggestions:

For what you're trying to achieve, I don't think you need two copies of
the image. Simply placing one image, adding horizontal / vertical
control points, optimizing, and projecting should work.

Switch the geometric optimizer to custom, then set the image to only
optimize pitch and roll. Pitch optimization will try to correct vertical
centering errors, while yaw will try to correct horizontal centering
errors. If you want to correct both, you may try optimizing only one at
a time. Without other images to anchor it down, optimizing everything at
once is liable to move the image all over the place.

I tried rectilinear, panini, and architectural projections. If you
haven't tried architectural, give it a look. It seemed to do a little
less of the bowed-in look that the rectilinear did without stretching it
vertically as much as the panini. But of course, with something like
this, it ultimately comes down to personal taste. Use whichever looks
the best to you.


As an interesting side note, I actually wrote some software back in
college for a robotics application that did a rectilinear -> rectilinear
perspective transform on a live webcam feed. It would take a target
shape and "flatten" it out. It worked really well on purely 2D objects,
but started to look weird whenever 3D objects entered the frame. This
comes back down to the parallax issue: image transforms can't alter the
parallax of the image, so there will be some oddities in any output if
the input picture isn't of something completely flat.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Stitching untypical photo objects (reflective, people, analog scans)

2016-09-04 Thread Sean Greenslade
On September 3, 2016 8:43:54 PM EDT, Abrimaal  wrote:
>Ad 4.
>The car side view is not a panorama. This is an image stack made from
>the 
>original image and its copy. 

Are you simply trying to adjust the perspective of the image? If so, you might 
be able to get away with a normal photo editing tool like GIMP. If not, can you 
supply an example .pto and image file so we can see what you are trying to 
achieve?

--Sean



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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: Suggestion

2016-08-09 Thread Sean Greenslade
>> Now that I think of it I don't know what I was thinking! What I meant
>by 
>that is you have control point 'x' and 'y' on one picture and you have
>the 
>corresponding 'x' and 'y' points on the other picture. but the second
>x/y 
>points were taken at a different zoom factor... you know what I mean
>now?

That's fine, Hugin can handle that. Two things, though: one, make sure the 
photos have different lenses assigned to them, that way the optimizer knows 
their FOVs can be different. And two, know that the control point finder may 
get confused by that, so you may have to do more manual control point adding / 
correction.

--Sean



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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: Suggestion

2016-08-07 Thread Sean Greenslade
On August 7, 2016 6:23:04 PM EDT, Michael Havens  
wrote:
>I figured out lens distortion but what should I take a picture of? I
>think
>that image with lines radiating from a central point. What do you know?
>I
>just took a picture of my monitor. with that it found two x axis lines
>and
>one y.

One of the nice things about Hugin is its ability to back-calculate lens 
parameters. If you place a lot of good, varied control points in the overlap 
regions, then enable the lens distortion optimizations, Hugin should be able to 
find and correct the distortions of your lens. This works best with a tripod & 
nodal rotation, however. Parallax errors in the source photos can cause the 
distortion parameters to go crazy during the optimization.

--Sean


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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: Suggestion

2016-08-07 Thread Sean Greenslade
On August 7, 2016 12:02:16 PM EDT, Michael Havens  
wrote:
>Here are the photos and stitced picture.
>https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2xvsVTZy4y1T0NsMkdOdGo2TWs
>
>On Sunday, August 7, 2016 at 11:32:43 AM UTC-4, Michael Havens wrote:
>>
>> Hello gentlemen (and women),
>>
>> I take pictures of the interior of houses. I use hugin in lew of 
>> purchasing a wide angle lens (I do not have a spare $1000 dollars
>laying 
>> around). I can only offer an idea, I don't have the technical
>aptitude for 
>> anything else (wish I did). Now it is good but you can see the seams
>if you 
>> look for them. What maybe someone could do is make it so control
>points 
>> from images proportionally scale to  fit together. Or perhaps I am
>doing 
>> something wrong.
>>

There are many possibilities. If you took the photos handheld, or used a tripod 
without a nodal panning adapter, there could be uncorrectable parallax in the 
photos. Since there are objects in the near field, this is an important point 
to consider.

Have you also gone through the entire optimization process? After finding 
control points, verifying that they are mostly all correct, then doing all the 
various optimization steps, including lens distortion. What was the final RMS 
error of the last optimizer run?

--Sean


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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: Can Hugin change the projection of a video?

2016-07-10 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Sun, Jul 10, 2016 at 09:29:41PM -0400, Robert Giordano wrote:
> Thanks Sean and Zoilo
> 
> I'm doing video editing on several Mac computers, OSX 10.9.5. I won't be
> able to install PHP on them so I'm guessing I will need a bash script?

PHP is not typically used for this sort of thing, so don't worry about
it.

Unfortunately, I'm not very familiar with OSX. I do believe it has bash,
so pretty much any bash tutorial should help you. I like this one:

http://tldp.org/LDP/abs/html/

> I'm not an expert at command line scripting. Is there a place where I can
> read about command line options for Hugin? For example, is there a direct
> command to change the projection of an image, given the lens and HFOV
> parameters? Or do I have to create a .pto file just for this single
> operation?

My best advice here is to make a project with Hugin that does what you
want, then save the .pto file and inspect it. Then either turn that file
into a template or model your pto generation code after it.

> I could probably look up how to get a list of files in a folder but then I
> might need some help after that.

Best way to tackle something like this is to draw out the overview of
what you want to happen. e.g.:

loop over files:
generate pto with current file name
run nona / hugin_executor / whatever
move file to destination folder
delete pto file

Once you have that, then start implementing a bit at a time. Breaking
the problem up makes exploring unfamiliar territory easier.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Re: Can Hugin change the projection of a video?

2016-07-10 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Sun, Jul 10, 2016 at 05:14:30PM -0700, Robert Giordano wrote:
> Hi Zoilo,
> 
> Thanks for the reply! Yes, I use Premiere CS6 and I can export the video to 
> folder of pictures. But if I have a 5 minute video (some are even longer) 
> that's 18,000 images!
> 
> I can create a single .pto file but surely there must be a better way than 
> having to make 18,000 .pto files??
> 
> What about making a dynamic .pto file using PHP or something? When I make 
> thumbnails on a website, I use PHP to make a list of all the images in a 
> folder, then create a thumbnail for each image in the list. Does your 
> script create 18,000 .pto files because Hugin needs all of them?
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Robert

Sure, you can generate a .pto file using any scripting language, even
PHP (though I would imagine python or even bash might be a bit simpler).

Basically, you need a script that loops over every frame file, generates
the pto, processes it, and saves the output file with the proper name.
If you get clever with the script, it could scan a directory and process
all files in it. That way, you just explode the video into a directory,
then fire off the script.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Stereoscopic Panoramas

2016-04-22 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Thu, Apr 21, 2016 at 03:14:21PM -0700, Simon Bethke wrote:
> Hi,
> I am an amateur photographer and lately got a Gear VR device so I wanted to 
> try some VR Stuff.
> Testing free panorama tools, I found that Hugin was the only free tool 
> providing decent results. Also, my 'Fisheye' lens uses Stereographic 
> projection, so most other tools are not even able to stitch my input 
> material correctly.
> 
> Now, the last days, weeks, ... even months(?) ... I am trying to find a 
> good way to capture stereoscopic panoramas with my one camera. After alot 
> of trial and error, I found that the best method for me is to place the 
> camera left and right the NPP and take 12 images for the 360° circle. Now 
> with hugin, I align them and export the frames but don't stitch them yet. 
> For that I use the multiblend  tool and 
> first extract its seams. Then I edit the seams that left and right eye 
> matches and blend with these optimized seams. My problem with this method 
> is, that by taking 12 left-eye images and afterwards 12 right-eye images, 
> the time between the left and right eye is to long: Clouds pass by and even 
> the sun travels. Flipping between left and right is inpractical and causes 
> many mistakes if I try to do it fast.
> 
> What I would like to do is to have the camera in front (not left or right) 
> of the NPP, take 12 photos and use only right image-halfes for the left eye 
> and vice versa. This works more or less, but here the big issue is, that 
> the paralaxe gets too strong and the stiching result is a mess with alot of 
> visible seams. At this place I wish it was possible, that hugin looks for 
> areas with bad control-points. If the photos were taken from a tripod (with 
> paralaxe), the error should equal the depth of the control points. At least 
> if there are areas with a bigger error (and similar error vectors) and 
> others with less error, the software could treat this as depth. Now with 
> depth information of the control-points, this becomes something similar to 
> visual sfm. The controlpoints are like a sparse point cloud and I'd suggest 
> simply interpolating the areas between the controlpoints to get a perfect 
> stitching result.
> 
> If hugin could actually support stitching photos that are taken off the 
> NPP. It could also assist creating stereoscopic panoramas.
> 
> What do you think about this? Is Hugin still actively developed or is it 
> rather a complete product which is just supported?
> 
> Kind Regards,
> Simon

It's not a shortcoming of Hugin that non-NPP pano sets are hard to
stitch. It's simply the way optics work. There will be parallax errors
if you're not spinning around the NPP, and there's nothing that can be
directly done about that. Parallax errors are extremely difficult for
software to handle automatically. You can of course use Hugin to stitch
non-NPP sets, and even handheld shots. Often times, some clever manual
masking can reduce or even eliminate the more severe parallax errors,
but that relies on there being "fudgable areas," e.g. blank white walls
where you can hide the misaligned seam.

The advice from that forum post in the other reply seems to be pretty
good. Keep the number of photos as low as possible to keep the number of
seams down, and avoid very close objects to the camera (which cause the
most severe parallax).

The problem is that 3D and pano-stitching are essntially at odds with
each other. 3D uses parallax to imply depth, while panos want as little
parallax as possible (ideally zero), since it causes stitching artifacts.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] images to big?

2016-03-14 Thread Sean Greenslade
On March 10, 2016 5:30:21 PM EST, Michael  wrote:
>The spherical thing in panorama stitcher appears to be too small. If I
>add 
>all 26 of my pictures they encompass the sphere abut three layers deep.
>I 
>do believe there is a setting to make that sphere bigger . As well as 
>needing to know what setting I need to change I need to know how to
>figure 
>out what to change the setting to.

Your lens hfov is probably too large. Try dropping it down, or set sone control 
points and optimise "position and view".

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] indoor photosphere

2016-03-10 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Thu, Mar 10, 2016 at 07:48:24AM -0500, Michael wrote:
> I was talking with my LUG group and they said the problem was that I hadn't
> taken my photographs from a tripod that rotates from the lens pupil.
> Meaning parallax would be bad in a field of view of about 6 feet. This
> problem results in 'align' not being able to find more than about 20
> control points in 26 pictures. Also (for future reference), when I import
> photos some of them are upside down. How do I flip them?

Assuming you didn't move around while taking the pictures (camera stayed
in mostly the same place), then you'll have some artifacts but it should
work. Manually adding ~5 control points per image pair that overlap
should work.

As for the upside down images, Hugin attempts to spread out the images
when you first import them. I generally go into Fast Preview, use the
move (individual) tool to roughly align all the images, then go in and
do either auto CP find (prealigned) or manually add the CPs.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] indoor photosphere

2016-03-09 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Wed, Mar 09, 2016 at 11:50:17AM -0800, Michael wrote:
> *W*hat I wish is to make a diagram of a house and then to make a photoshere 
> of every room of this house. I'll then and put the appropriate photoshere 
> in the corresponding room on the diagram. My local LUG says I should be 
> able to do it but have not had any success in three days of trying. Can 
> anyone help me out? I'm trying to do this of my living room first. Align 
> will not find any control points and it doesn't work when I assign my own 
> control points. I'm including the log file below:

There are a bunch of tutorials that explain how to get started with
Hugin:

http://hugin.sourceforge.net/tutorials/index.shtml

Your log hints at the fact that you have probably not run the optimizer
to actually align the images. Use the Fast Preview window to see how the
final panorama should look after rendering.

> ...
> enblend: info: loading next image: 1DSC00100 - DSC00124-10010.tif 1/1
> enblend: warning: failed to detect any seam
> enblend: mask is entirely black, but white image was not identified as 
> redundant
> enblend: info: remove invalid output image "1DSC00100 - DSC00124-1.tif"

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Working with save-masks

2016-03-09 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Wed, Mar 09, 2016 at 01:20:42PM -0800, Martin Knowles wrote:
> I've been experimenting with the save-masks option for dealing with 
> architectural subjects, and what I'd like to do is load the images with 
> their mask results as layer masks into Photoshop so that they can be 
> tweaked easily, and then merge the final result in Photoshop, if possible.
> 
> Is this a workflow that ought to be workable? If it is:
> 
> 1. since the masks are saved as float tiff, and they need to end up as 
> Photoshop layer masks, the logical thing would be to convert the psd to 
> 32bpp, then use Apply Image/channel paste to get the masks in. However, 
> this is going to cause Photoshop to tonemap the output, which isn't ideal. 
> Any good way around this?
> 
> 2. What PS blending mode (or is there one?) would match how Enfuse merges?

There is no (AFAIK) blending mode that matches what enfuse does. Enfuse
uses 4 different algorithms, each with their own adjustable weighting,
to do the fusion. To get the best results, you would want to modify the
masks, save them out, then run enfuse with --load-masks.

> 3. Is there a good way to create the masks or convert them to a format 
> that's more easily usable--like tif8 or tif16, rather than float tiff? 
> (I've tried opening them in PS, and converting them down with linear gamma, 
> but this seems not to work particularly well). Or is there something 
> inherent to the algorithm that makes it work a lot better with float tiff 
> masks?

Not having explored the enfuse code, I would imagine it's easier to use
floats to avoid a bunch of conversions (since the enfuse engine likely
uses floats internally). However, if Photoshop doesn't like dealing with
float tiffs, you may need to convert them with an outside tool (e.g.
imagemagik). You would then need to convert them back after
modifications, of course.

Sorry I don't have any more specific advice, however I don't use
Photoshop.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Installed Hugin 2015 from Debian Testing, reports error loading shared library

2016-02-12 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Fri, Feb 12, 2016 at 07:11:33PM -1000, David W. Jones wrote:
> I made a symlink named libvigraimpex.so.6 to the installed
> libvigraimpex.so.5.1.10.0, and Hugin starts. Weird.

Be very careful doing something like that. soname bumps don't happen for
no reason, and if there is no symlink in the package then it's likely
the new version is incompatible with the old one in some ways.

I would try to find the proper version of the package and install that.
Unfortunatly, I don't use Debian, so I can't offer any help there.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] How to improve.

2015-12-22 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Tue, Dec 22, 2015 at 02:25:04PM -0800, Jeff Burns wrote:
> 
> 
> I have been working with this image for days, but cannot get a clean 
> stitch. I have small misalignments.   When I took the pictures the camera 
> was mounted on a regular ballhead so there is some parallax error. 
> 
> Would a different optimization strategy solve the problem? 
> 
> Is there a workable post processing strategy to fix the errors?
> 
> If I retook the pictures with a fixture that allows the camera to rotate 
> around the zero parallax point, would the problems go away? 
> 
> Jeff

For the types of small misalignments that I see in this image, a nodal
rotator would be the best fix. I built one myself and spent a while
adjusting it to align properly with my camera.

I've also developed a bunch of strategies for how to deal with these
issues. The biggest one is try to get the main subject(s) entirely in
frame & in focus in at least one shot. It can be maddening to have a
seam going down a main focal point because it just happened to land
in between two shots.

Also (though it doesn't really help for your particular picture), if
there are areas of low contrast (white walls, unpatterned carpet, etc.),
you can force your seams to happen in those areas by using include and
exclude regions. I've found using exclude regions is gentler, since an
include region essentially translates to an exclude region on every
other image that touches that same region. By leaving some of the
low-contrast areas from both images in the seam area and making the
high-contrast areas appear in only one image, enblend is forced to put
the seams in the low-contrast areas where they are less noticable.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] HSI help

2015-12-10 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Thu, Dec 10, 2015 at 07:18:45AM -0800, Vasileios Anagnostopoulos wrote:
> High,
> 
> I am on Windows 10 x64 and using Hugin 2015 with Python 3.4, all x64.
> 
> I have a a list of frames from six cameras.
> 
> The first frame of each camera I could align it semi-manually and create a 
> 360x180 panorama.
> 
> My task at hand is to do the same for the rest of frames in corresponding 
> streams but by reusing my pto.

An admittedly low-tech way would be to create the PTO file, then write a
python script that writes out the PTO files with each image string
substituted from your frame list. Then just feed the pile of PTOs to the
batch processor. The PTO format is very simple and easy to play with.

--Sean

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Re: [hugin-ptx] Aligning / remapping a series of photos

2015-12-10 Thread Sean Greenslade
On Wed, Dec 09, 2015 at 04:31:09PM +, 'boomslang' via hugin and other free 
panoramic software wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> I have a series of photos that I would like to align and remap. The photos 
> are taken without a tripod. I would like to obtain for each photo a 
> transformed new image, all sized 4000 x 3000 pixels, such that all new images 
> are aligned. No other image operations (exposure or color correction), are 
> necessary.   
> 
> I tried in Hugin to play around with the 'Remapped Images' tick boxes in the 
> 'Stitcher' tab, but I wasn't successful yet.  I do get remapped images, but 
> they are all exposure corrected etc and are all of different sizes.
> 
> Anyone has any ideas?  Help is much appreciated.
> 
> 
> Kind regards

I'm not really sure what you're going for, here. Could you explain what
you're trying to achieve more clearly?

The output of the "remapped images" is a set of intermediary images. How
they are warped / sized / corrected is dependent on the settings of the
final panoramic output.

--Sean

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