[lace] Winding bobbins

[Jean Leader]

I’m away from home teaching this week so don’t have my books and notes on 
threads with me but I do have an article about winding bobbins on my website at 
https://www.jeanleader.net/techniques/winding.html

For me what’s important is not to put any stress on the threads by either 
adding or removing twist while getting them from reel to bobbin and I’ve tried 
to explain how to avoid doing this. 

Jean in cold (but not snowy) Scotland
---
Jean Leader
Lace Advent Calendar: https://www.jeanleader.net/calendar/index.html

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Re: [lace] Winding bobbins with a string

[Tregellas Family]

What a wonderful picture you paint Peg, of yucky weather.  Having spent 
a couple of weeks in S E Asia last year I can totally relate to your 
description.  LOL


Cheers,
Shirley T.  -  Adelaide, South Australia where we've had the driest June 
(winter month Downunder) on record.   Blue sky and a warmish sun, if 
you're out of the wind, but alas they are forecasting hail for tomorrow.




PegIn a sultry, muggy, gaaaccckkk humid Cleveland Ohio

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[lace] Winding bobbins with a string

[Witchy Woman]

Hi Susan...
I haven't tried it any other way than what I posted.
The way I posted, you wind your bobbins clockwise, and the string goes around
the bobbin counter-clockwise. 
Perhaps setting the bobbin under the string and bringing it around clockwise
would work to wind the bobbin counter-clockwise.
Have to try it when I get home from work.  Let me know how your experiments
work.
Enjoy!
PegIn a sultry, muggy, gaaaccckkk humid Cleveland Ohio

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Re: [lace] Winding bobbins with a string

[Clay Blackwell]

I think that the direction we wind our bobbins is determined by the "S" or "Z" 
twist of the thread, not by the type of bobbins being used.

Clay

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 12, 2017, at 11:10 AM, Malvary Cole  wrote:
> 
> Susan wrote  --how does this work with Idrija bobbins where we are winding 
> anti-clockwise?
> 
> My question - why do you have to wind them anti-clockwise.  I do Idrija all 
> the time and wind them exactly the same as I wind all my bobbins.  If you 
> suddenly switch direction of the way you wind, you might have difficulties in 
> getting used to lengthening and shortening your threads when you are trying 
> to learn as much as you can in the few hours you have available.
> 
> Malvary in Ottawa where we have had enough rain for this summer.  No lawn 
> bowling because the greens were flooded. 
> -
> 

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[lace] Winding bobbins with a string

[Susan]

Oh dear, am I in the weeds again?  I thought we are winding Idrija bobbins 
anti-clockwise when using a bolster.  Must re-check my notes.  Thank you all!  
Sincerely, Susan Hottle USA 

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [lace] Winding bobbins with a string

[Malvary Cole]

Susan wrote  --how does this work with Idrija bobbins where we are winding 
anti-clockwise?


My question - why do you have to wind them anti-clockwise.  I do Idrija all 
the time and wind them exactly the same as I wind all my bobbins.  If you 
suddenly switch direction of the way you wind, you might have difficulties 
in getting used to lengthening and shortening your threads when you are 
trying to learn as much as you can in the few hours you have available.


Malvary in Ottawa where we have had enough rain for this summer.  No lawn 
bowling because the greens were flooded. 


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[lace] Winding bobbins with a string

[Susan]

Thank you for posting your YouTube video Peg!  This is so useful as many of us 
head off to IOLI convention.  The only thing I would ask--how does this work 
with Idrija bobbins where we are winding anti-clockwise?  In addition to the 
times when my winder is not at hand, that would be the most valuable use for me 
because Idrija bobbins are too large for regular winders.  My immediate thought 
is that the string should be wound around the bobbin in the opposite direction, 
then push the bobbin away.  I must test the theory!  Sincerely, Susan Hottle 
USA 

Sent from my iPad

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[lace] winding bobbins

[VivienneWalton]

I have tried to keep out of this as we used to be bobbin makers but however 
 we are not now. You should not need any thing to help you keep normal 
thread on  Midland bobbins. One of the ladies said wind it round a few times 
over the start  of the thread then change hands or go to your winder and wind 
your bobbin. Then  do a double hitch and you should be able to swing your 
bobbin without it coming  adrift. It will become slowly longer but not unwind. 
If it does you are not  doing the double hitch right or you have some bad 
short necks, the bit at the  top where you hitch the thread. Awkward threads 
treat your self to a couple of  hookies. We don't sell them now but other 
bobbin makers do, such as Chris  Parsons. You can wind these bobbins and 
literally swing your hookie round your  head and the thread will not come off 
until you twist it off yourself! No  problem Vivienne

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[lace] winding bobbins - a comment

[Alice Howell]

Recently bobbin winding was mentioned, and I think I remember a comment about 
thread not being very neat when wound using a string to turn the bobbin.

For newer bobbin lacemakers, the thread on a bobbin is not supposed to be wound 
neatly with the threads next to each other.  The thread should be wound at a 
slant down and up so that the successive windings cross the previous windings 
at an angle.

The hitch on a bobbin can pull itself down into the *neat* windings of thread 
if layer after layer are oriented in the same direction.  The hitch can go down 
only one layer if the layers underneath lie on a different slant.  The hitch 
cannot get buried in the threads, and lost. This is especially important if the 
thread is fine, slick or fuzzy.

When I wind bobbins, I lay the first layer (only) tightly side by side down the 
thread area to give a solid base to the windings.  All the rest of the layers 
are at an angle, up, down, up, down, etc.  

If you have had any trouble losing your hitches into the thread, give this 
winding method a try.

Alice in Oregon -- getting ready to fly out tomorrow morning for Virginia and 
Lace at Sweet Briar.  I get to play tourist a few days before the retreat 
starts, visiting Williamsburg and other historic locations. 

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Re: [lace] winding bobbins - a comment

[Sue]

I wish I had known this before and it makes lots of sense.   I have been 
trying to wind in a tidy fashion but obviously will go for the diagonal 
method more in the future.   I have just wouud silk onto 40 pairs and 
started the first little tiny bit last night.   They would very nicely and a 
couple of knots came out easily, which surprised me, so now all is well and 
I am slowly bringing the pairs in and over the next couple of evenings 
should have the pattern working as I want it.

Sue T

Recently bobbin winding was mentioned, and I think I remember a comment 
about thread not being very neat when wound using a string to turn the 
bobbin.


For newer bobbin lacemakers, the thread on a bobbin is not supposed to be 
wound neatly with the threads next to each other.  The thread should be 
wound at a slant down and up so that the successive windings cross the 
previous windings at an angle.
If you have had any trouble losing your hitches into the thread, give this 
winding method a try.


Alice in Oregon -- getting ready to fly out tomorrow morning for Virginia 
and Lace at Sweet Briar.  I get to play tourist a few days before the 
retreat starts, visiting Williamsburg and other historic locations.


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RE: [lace] winding bobbins - a comment

[Patricia Dowden]

...
When I wind bobbins, I lay the first layer (only) tightly side by side down
the thread area to give a solid base to the windings.  All the rest of the
layers are at an angle, up, down, up, down, etc.  

If you have had any trouble losing your hitches into the thread, give this
winding method a try.

Alice in Oregon 
=

Hi Alice,

I have never heard of that method (and it's always good to know another
one!).  I did learn a slightly different one:

Like Alice, I wind the first layer side by side.  Then I bring the thread
straight back from where it ends back to the beginning, wind another layer
and then straight back again.  This leaves some threads in line with the
head of the bobbin and protects against the digging in.

I do have to laugh, though!  For the first class I ever took, I wound my
bobbins fanatically even, like a spool of store bought thread.
Unfortunately I wound them in the wrong direction and couldn't keep them on
my pillow!  Had to rewind the whole lot!  LOL!

Patty

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RE: [lace] winding bobbins - a comment

[robinlace]

 Patricia Dowden pat...@netwiz.net wrote: 
I do have to laugh, though!  For the first class I ever took, I wound my 
bobbins fanatically even, like a spool of store bought thread.  Unfortunately I 
wound them in the wrong direction and couldn't keep them on my pillow!  Had to 
rewind the whole lot!-

There's no right or wrong direction for winding a bobbin.  [Okay, some people 
believe S-twist thread should be wound the opposite direction from Z-twist 
thread, but I haven't found any consistent difference between them.]  The only 
thing that matters is that the direction of the hitch is correct.  If your 
bobbins unwound, you should have only needed to reverse the hitches.  Of 
course, nobody at their first class is going to know that.

Robin P.
Los Angeles, California, USA
robinl...@socal.rr.com

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[lace] Winding bobbins - a question of direction

[Laceandbits]

Watching Achim's excellent video, I thought it was interesting the bobbins 
are wound anticlockwise (as most of the world seems to do) but then they were 
also shown wound clockwise 'for cotton.

Surely if you are going to sometimes use one direction and at other times the 
other, it would be more logical that the direction should be chosen to match 
the direction of twist, Z or S, rather than the fibre the thread is made from.

I know a lot of linen threads are S twist, and a lot of cotton ones are Z, 
but there are still a lot in both categories that are the other way round.  

Does anyone actually wind one way for one twist and the other for the other?  
Does it actually make that much difference?  And which way round is it?  I 
thought it was anti-clockwise for Z twist, ie lots of cottons, but that's the 
other way round to Achim's video.

Or perhaps so long as the important rules of wind off the side not the top 
of the spool and wind the bobbin onto the thread, not the thread onto the 
bobbin are observed, it doesn't much matter which way the thread is held on 
the 
bobbin.

Does it help to prevent the problem that some people have, particularly with 
the Madeira cottons, of the thread untwisting and just falling apart.  Or is 
this partly to do with the type of cotton fibre that Madeira is made from?

I know we have had the start of this discussion in the past, but don't 
remember if it has ever been resolved, so I would be interested to hear from 
people 
who have done proper trials.  

Finally, I noticed that the thread winding was started at the bottom of the 
neck.  I can see that this made it clearer to show the knot, but I saw bobbins 
wound this way in Spain and wondered how many of you do it like this.  I was 
always taught (by several UK tutors), and have always taught my students, to 
start winding at the top of the neck, for two reasons.  The first is that this 
way the thread stays on the bobbin longer when you are nearing the end.  
Secondly when you are using a bobbin without a head to hitch onto (like Honiton 
and 
Continental bobbins) the hitch is always on top of thread so it slips less and 
only needs a single wrap into the hitch.  

Jacquie in Lincolnshire   

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Re: [lace] Winding bobbins - a question of direction

[Achim Siebert]

Hello Jacquie,
you're perfectly right - it's all a matter of S and Z twist. I tried
to avoid that complicated (twisted?) stuff in the video, so I used the
simplification of linnen vs. cotton. Since I learned to wind
anti-clockwise with linnen thread, I usually use it for all kinds of
thread anyway (fine egyptian cotton has the same twist as far as I
recall).

Best, Achim.

2008/7/14  [EMAIL PROTECTED]:
 Watching Achim's excellent video, I thought it was interesting the bobbins
 are wound anticlockwise (as most of the world seems to do) but then they were
 also shown wound clockwise 'for cotton.

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[lace] Winding bobbins - a question of direction

[Jane Partridge]

In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
Watching Achim's excellent video, I thought it was interesting the bobbins 
are wound anticlockwise (as most of the world seems to do)
I thought clockwise was the norm? Or is it another case like the
footside being on the right or left where England differs?

Or perhaps so long as the important rules of wind off the side not the top 
of the spool and wind the bobbin onto the thread, not the thread onto the 
bobbin are observed, it doesn't much matter which way the thread is held on 
the 
bobbin.

As I'm sure you have, Jacquie, I have over the years had several
students who are somewhat haphazard in the direction they wind their
bobbins and so both winds are on the pillow at the same time. It doesn't
appear to make the slightest bit of difference to the finished lace. It
does slow you down when you come to lengthen the thread from the bobbin,
because you have to work out which way is unwind first! 


Does it help to prevent the problem that some people have, particularly with 
the Madeira cottons, of the thread untwisting and just falling apart.  Or is 
this partly to do with the type of cotton fibre that Madeira is made from?

Thanks to a correcting comment from Margaret Allen, years ago, when I
was having this problem with DMC Broder Machine, the solution here is
mostly in being strict about turning the bobbin so that it is at right
angles to the thread [between it and the lace] before winding or
unwinding. This way you are unwinding the bobbin, not adding or removing
twists from the thread (as you would if you kept the bobbin in line with
the thread). In certain laces, eg Bucks, the way the bobbins turn in use
has a habit of untwisting the thread, and here I've found that switching
from DMC to William Hall (presumably thus changing from S to Z twist, I
haven't checked) thread solves the problem. I haven't really noticed the
problem with Madeira threads (I have Cotona on one pillow at the moment;
it is the one with DMC that I'm having to retwist at more or less every
picot). 

Continental bobbins) the hitch is always on top of thread so it slips less and 
only needs a single wrap into the hitch.  

I always put my hitch on the thread, regardless of the type of bobbin.
(Except for hookies, which don't need a hitch!) 

Bobbins that have the wrong hitch for the direction the thread is wound
always slip, so I do pay attention to making the hitch according to the
way a bobbin is wound - I always wind clockwise, and hitch thus:-
holding bobbin in left hand, head to the right, with index finger
parallel to the bobbin, thread comes from under the bobbin, back to
front, up and over finger, down and between finger and bobbin. Place
finger tip on top of bobbin head and slide the loop from the finger onto
the bobbin. Hitch made. 

For an anticlockwise wind, the bobbin is held as before, but as the
thread is now coming from back to front over the bobbin, it goes down
and under the bobbin, behind and over your finger, down between finger
and bobbin. Then place finger tip on head of bobbin and slip the loop
onto the bobbin as before.

If you hold the bobbin in your right hand, then the anticlockwise
(second) hitch  above is the right way for thread wound clockwise
(looking down on the head of the bobbin) and the hitch described first
is right for an anticlockwise wind.

Some bobbins will not behave, regardless of the above, possibly because
of their weight in relation to the thread (I don't use the short neck so
that isn't the reason). Some threads are too springy to stay on
bobbins - synthetics, particularly rayon, and metallics (the 3 ply DMC
gold once drove me bananas!) and for these the hooked bobbins are
better.

Thinking back to this gold, the problem was that once the thread was
wound on the bobbin, the coil thus formed round the neck loosened, and
the bobbin slipped out. I'm wondering if this is the problem Sister
Claire is referring to in talking about the curl of the thread? 

In this respect, I don't think there are any proper lacemaking terms -
we just use the words we know to describe what is happening (and I say
this after 19 years of making lace). Where there are terms, as with
learning any new language, we all have things we don't know the word
for, and if you ask, someone will fill you in if there is a specific
term. There may be several words (as with a worker pair, in Honiton it
is a runner) but then, often there isn't a specific one! This is why one
student (who was also studying for a degree in textiles) said it would
help if lace books had a glossary at the beginning, so that you could
check the meanings (particularly for things like whole stitch - CTC or
CTCT???) before you start.
-- 
Jane Partridge

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[lace] winding bobbins

[Miriam]

When I first started lace making I wound my Czech bobbins and since I 
held them upside down I guess you would say that I was winding them 
clock wise when turned over again.


It didn't cause any problems until I arrived at my first lace course 
in the UK. With bobbins wound coynter clockwise I was in trouble. The 
hitches either opened the whole time or I couldn't unwind the 
bobbins. At that time I gave up my Czech bobbins and from then on it 
was only winding counter clockwise.


Trouble struck again when I went to a lace course in Malta. Yes 
Karen, Consiglia wound up all our bobbins and they were all clockwise 
which was rather frustrating especially as the bobbins were not well 
finished off and the thread was rayon. When I got back home I went 
back to winding my bobbins the way I was used too and it was a lot 
better. (Changed the bobbins too and worked with Continental bobbins).


Miriam
in Arad , Israel

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[lace] winding bobbins using string

[Helen]

I've never used the string method, winding bobbins is a good excuse 
to sit in front of a film all evening :o)  Here's a link to a website 
description


http://www.geocities.com/carolgallego/winder.html

This is how it was explained in an email to Lace by Janice Blair last 
year when I was wondering how it worked:


Get a piece of string or strong thead about 24 inches long and make 
a loop at either end.  One loop is pinned down onto your pillow or a 
convenient chair arm.  Next I start wrapping my thread clockwise 
around the neck of the bobbin for about 8 or 9 turns so that the 
thread will hold.


Wrap the string around the body of the bobbin clockwise up near the 
pin that is holding the string.  If you are right handed, catch the 
other loop in your left hand pinkie finger and hold the string tight 
and straight towards your body.  Your right hand has been holding 
the bobbin in the string whilst doing this.  Now support the bobbin 
with your index and middle fingers on either side of the string, 
over the top of the bobbin.  Still keeping the string tight, draw 
the bobbin down towards your body.  The thread will automatically 
wind onto the bobbin.  When you get as far down the string as you 
can, you push the bobbin back up to the top and start again.  It 
makes winding a few yard a breeze once you get the knack.  I also 
guide the thread from the spool through my left hand to keep it tidy.





Helen

At 15:33 07/03/2006, Elsbeth Mendes da Costa wrote:


On 5 Mar 2006, at 13:48, lace-digest wrote:


a string as a bobbin winder,


I have tested this one out on our lace class and we are all in the 
dark. We would love to know, how does a piece of string work as a 
bobbin winder?


Elsbeth
Worcestershire, UK




Helen, Somerset, UK

Forget the formulae, let's make lace



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Re: [lace] winding bobbins using string

[Alice Howell]

Winding With a String:
Another variation, with both ends of the winding
string attached to things, is on the Lacefairy
website.  Look up Lacefairy, click on Arachne FAQ's,
then on Winding Bobbins--which gives you three
choices, one of which is Winding With a String.

I find this a very portable method of winding, and
very useful when winding large amounts of thread.  It
does not work on bobbins with spiral grooves on them.

Happy lacing,
Alice in Oregon -- with temporary sunshine right now

--- Helen [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I've never used the string method, winding bobbins
 is a good excuse 
 to sit in front of a film all evening :o)  Here's a
 link to a website 
 description
 
 http://www.geocities.com/carolgallego/winder.html

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RE: [lace] Winding bobbins with equal amounts of thread...

[Elizabeth Pass]

The disadvantage of winding equal amounts of thread on all the bobbins is
that they will all run out at much the same time!

I never mind joining thread, after all, I wouldn't expect to knit a jumper
without a join or fifteen at least.

Liz Pass
In Poole, Dorset,UK


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



In a message dated 30/07/2004 12:41:56 GMT Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Wind the mate with 8 rotations off
 the first bobbin, and your pair is equal - and you don't have to deal 
 with piles of thread getting tangled and dirty

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[lace] Winding bobbins with equal amounts of thread...

[Clay Blackwell]

 That's another big problem I have - I can't tell what length of thread I
 have on a bobbin, unless I unwind it all and stretch it out across the
room
 or something, but that will often just end with a big mess of tangled
 thread...

When winding bobbins for small projects, the process of measuring off a
yard or two for one bobbin and then another yard or two for its mate is not
a problem.  But for larger projects where you need a lot more on your
bobbins, the best solution is to use a bobbin winder.  Measure out a yard,
and count how many rotations it takes to wind up that yard, and then
multiply this amount times the number of yards you want on your bobbin.  If
it takes 8 rotations to fill one bobbin, then fill the first bobbin with 16
rotations, and then cut your thread.  Wind the mate with 8 rotations off
the first bobbin, and your pair is equal - and you don't have to deal with
piles of thread getting tangled and dirty

Clay

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Re: [lace] Winding bobbins with equal amounts of thread...

[Laceandbits]

In a message dated 30/07/2004 12:41:56 GMT Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Wind the mate with 8 rotations off
 the first bobbin, and your pair is equal - and you don't have to deal with
 piles of thread getting tangled and dirty

But make sure you take the thread off onto the second bobbin by unwinding 
it off the first, not by pulling it off the top.  In other words, in the same 
way as you will, of course, have taken the thread off the side of the spool in 
the first place.

If you don't believe this makes a difference, wrap a piece of ribbon or tape 
(or even a strip of paper) neatly around a pencil or similar, then holding the 
starting end onto the pencil, pull the ribbon off the top of the pencil.  All 
the twists that you get in a short length of ribbon are multiplied over your 
yard or three of thread and will either tighten or loosen the correct thread 
twist.

A rule of thumb, if the reel of thread isn't turning as you take the thread 
off, you're interfering with the twist.
Jacquie

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[lace] Winding bobbins

[Jean Nathan]

A lady in my lace class has a bobbin winder made by her son which he found
in a magazine described as a medieval bobbin winder.

There are two wooden uprights held about three quarters of an inch apart by
a block between them at the bottom. They're mounted on a flat piece of wood
which is clamped to the table. The uprights have a semi-circle cut in the
edges away from you into which you place the bobbin horizontally, with the
end to be wound sticking out to one side. She threads a circle of string
onto a thin dress belt and fixes the belt round her waist. She puts the
string circle around the bobbin and then the bobbin into the two semicircles
in the uprights. By pulling the top string towards her, the bobbin spins and
the thread winds on.

Its the same effect as the wooden bobbin winders layed on their side, which
have a wooden wheel and rubber belt round the wheel and bobbin. She replaces
the wooden wheel.

Jean in Poole

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[lace] winding bobbins with a string

[Alice Howell]

Greetings,

All this talk of bobbins and winding has brought out this method 
again.  For the newbies who haven't seen this, here is a copy of two 
messages from years back that may be of interest.  It is most helpful when 
winding more than one yard per bobbin.  It might come in handy some day.

There's actually two messages, and two methods described.  Take your choice.

--
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 10:02:37 -0800
From: Alice Howell mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [lace] Wind bobbins with a String
Greetings everyone,

The recent talk about bobbin winders brought up the subject of winding
bobbins with the use of a string when talking to a new lacemaker recently.
I promised I would write it up again and send it. This may help out with
newer lacemakers who cannot yet afford a mechanical winder, or don't
know which one they want. It is also very portable.
Winding Bobbins With a String

Take a string about 1-1/2 yards long and attach each end to something
sturdy. (I like to use the 2 arms of my recliner and pin the string to each 
one.)
Two sturdy chairs work, or one chair and a table leg, etc. The string
should be fairly taut, but have some give in it. A movable chair or a pin 
allows
adjustment to be easily made to the tautness of the string.

Start the thread on the bobbin, winding a few times until it is attached.
Holding the bobbin with the head away from you, reach across the string
and tuck the body of the bobbin under the string. Then twist the end of
the bobbin up (to the left), over and again under the string while holding on
to the head.
You should end up with a loop of the string going around the middle of the
bobbin, the tail pointed at you, and the head away from you. This method
will work with either midlands or continental bobbins because the tail of
the bobbin hangs loose. Realize the midlands, with spangles, may feel a
bit wierd as you proceed, but can easily be done. I like the string to be
about 1/3 of the way from the threaded section to the tail of the bobbin.
The design of the bobbin may determine where the string lies best.
Hold the bobbin with your right hand by putting two fingers on each side of
the string and bending your fingers under the bobbin--sort of a cradle.
Your left hand will hold the winding thread parallel with the string. I like to
have a yard or so of thread unwound from the spool so it can flow freely.
By unwinding the thread a yard at a time, I can keep count how much
thread is going on the bobbin.
With your right hand cupped loosely under the bobbin, push the bobbin
to the left across the string. The loop around the bobbin will make the bobbin
spin, and the thread will wind around the bobbin. Be aware that the thread
may not wind up in very neat, precise rows, but with practice you can
control it to some extent.  Thread will have fewer problems unwinding if it 
is not neatly wound. (Believe it or not.)

When you reach the left side of the string, put your right thumb on the bobbin
and hold it firmly in the right hand. Pull the bobbin back to the right side of
the string without letting it turn. The string will slide around the bobbin.
When back to the right side, release your thumb and again hold the bobbin
loosely with your fingers, and push it back across the string. (I guess
that I take about 10 seconds a yard, and do about 3 passes across the string
per yard.)
When the bobbin has enough thread on it, remove from the string and tie
your half hitch.
The second bobbin of a pair may be a bit trickier. You have to unwind the
total amount of thread needed, and start from the cut end. If you are needing
only 1-2-3 yards, it is not much of a problem. If you need many yards, you
need to develop a system of laying out the unwound yards in a manner that
will allow the thread to wind freely without tangling. (I have wound up to
14 yards successfully.)
A bit of caution on midlands bobbins. The bobbins that have a spiral design
along the body of the bobbin may be more difficult to wind. The winding
string tends to catch in the spiral, and travel to the tail end. The string has
to be repositioned frequently. Also I have found a few bobbins that have
such a smooth, slick finish that the string can't get traction on them.  Glass
bobbins also are slick to wind. However, 95 percent of my midlands can
be wound easily in this manner. Continentals are very easy.
If the string breaks, use another piece--very inexpensive to replace.

I hope this may be of help to some of you. I have yet to buy a machanical
winder because the string process has worked so well for me. Please write
directly if this discription is not clear on any point. I will be happy to
respond.
Happy lacing, everyone!

Alice in Oregon -- where winter is coming in very wet and cool.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
From: Marni Harang [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [lace] winding bobbins on a string

I too use the string method to wind my bobbins

Re: [lace] Winding bobbins was Re: Working with silk thread

[Thelacebee]

In a message dated 28/09/2003 19:56:46 GMT Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Hi Lorri -
 
 Yes, I find the counter-clockwise wind works better for the
 Z-twist.  And then you'll have to do your hitch differently
 too...  essentially, I hold the bobbin with the head on the
 left instead of the right and do the mirror of what I do
 with the S-twist hitch.
 
 Clay

For some reason, whilst I make lace ambidextrous I wind left handed - ie I 
always wind counter clockwise, but because I wind the bobbin onto the thread, 
not the thread onto the bobbin (ie I roll the bobbin whilst moving the lace onto 
it) I don't have the problem with thread untwisting regardless of what type 
of thread it is.

A tip I was also given was that when you have finished winding the thread and 
have half hitched it, you hold the bobbin up, in the air, by the thread and 
let it spin until any extra twisting has be 'spun' out.  

On cotton, there is very little extra twist be to spun out, but on silks and 
metalised threads then there are some times problems.

Regards

Liz Beecher
I'm A HREF=http://journals.aol.com/thelacebee/thelacebee;blogging/A now - see 
what it's all about

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