Re: wood lathe

[Dexter Bland]

Your digital control comment reminds me of a story I read several years ago 
about a guy that bought a digital control lathe, set it up with a big chunk 
of wood, starts to turn it on, then turns to his son and says "lets put on 
our safety glasses". He starts the lathe not realizing the speed setting in 
10x faster than he thought. The machine is so out of balance it starts 
walking across the floor, throws the chunk of wood thru the garage wall, 
falls over and unplugs itself. His son then says to his dad, "good thing we 
put on our safety glasses."!

On Friday, June 23, 2023 at 9:31:33 AM UTC-5 Rick Hutley wrote:

> I would add to Michael’s advice: get a digital lathe. The ability to 
> control the speed from a few revolutions (e.g. for sanding) to full speed 
> without having to stop and manually change bands makes turning so much 
> easier and more enjoyable.
>
> Rick
>
> On Jun 23, 2023, at 10:00, Tim Ziegler  wrote:
>
> 
>
> That's the exact lathe I got. PM4224B Great lathe and yes its a tank, 
> But absolutely everything you'd ever want and need in a lathe. 
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Timothy J. Ziegler
> Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty
> 14171 160th Ave.
> Foreston MN 56330
>
> 320-294-5798 <(320)%20294-5798> shop
> 320-630-2243 <(320)%20630-2243> cell
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 8:32 AM Owner  wrote:
>
>> Have been turning for 60 years there are more lathes manufactures and 
>> models out there than you can count, my advice is to buy the biggest and 
>> heaviest  one you can’t afford or you’ll regret it.
>> For me my go to lathe is a Powermatic 4224B could’d be happier as there's 
>> nothing it can’t turn big or small it also has a built in vacuum chuck 
>> system and indexing. 
>> Mass is critical if your turning anything bigger than spindles. 
>> Some fellow club members have reported issues with Laguna electronics as 
>> has the local Woodcraft that sells them.
>>
>> Have a Jet 1220 VS with stand I’m will to sell for a reasonable price 
>> with many accessories I used to take on the road for demos but I no longer 
>> do that.
>>
>> Michael Kratky
>> 119 Riverview Rd., 
>> Northville, N.Y. 12134
>>
>> 518 863-2821 <(518)%20863-2821>
>> text 518 207-7247 <(518)%20207-7247>
>>
>> Email;
>> kra...@roadrunner.com
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 23, 2023, at 9:06 AM, Rick Hutley  wrote:
>>
>> This also rates Laguna in the top picks:
>>
>>   https://www.lathematters.com/best-wood-lathe/
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On Jun 23, 2023, at 09:05, Rick Hutley  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> I’ve done wood lathe turning for a number of years - not on a Laguna I’m 
>> afraid. However, I can tell you that Laguna have a very good reputation. 
>> You might also look at the Powermatic lathes.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On Jun 23, 2023, at 07:07, Tim Ziegler  wrote:
>>
>> 
>> I have a call turning friend that just bought a Laguna for a replacement 
>> lathe. 
>> He turns everyday and said it runs super smooth and really likes it. Not 
>> sure what 
>> model he has but could find out. 
>> I'm a Power Matic guy so can only attest to his opinion, and if he likes 
>> a tool its got 
>> to be pretty good. 
>>
>> Kind Regards,
>>
>> Timothy J. Ziegler
>> Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty
>> 14171 160th Ave.
>> Foreston MN 56330
>>
>> 320-294-5798 <(320)%20294-5798> shop
>> 320-630-2243 <(320)%20630-2243> cell
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 23, 2023 at 3:19 AM  wrote:
>>
>>> Has anybody had any experience with a laguna wood lathe I am looking at 
>>> different brands for a friend and laguna keeps coming up as a very good one 
>>> looking for opinions
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>  
>>>
>>>  
>>>
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
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Woodmizer has gotten into the lathe making business

[Dexter Bland]

Lathe-Mizer Log Lathe Sawmill Attachment In Action | Wood-Mizer - YouTube 

Not quite a legacy machine but it can turn your own large posts. Make them 
round or up to 8 sided. They just need to replace the band cutting head 
with a large router. Kinda cool.

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LOM for sale

[Dexter Bland]

Guys and Gals,
Appears to be older steel rail unit. 
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?291180-Ornamental-Mill-and-shaper-in-Iowa
Ornamental Mill and shaper in Iowa 

   1. I have a legacy ornamental mill for sale in Nashua Iowa. It will do 
   all the twists and fluting on any kind of table or poster bed leg I can't 
   begin to tell you what all it will do. I have many of the optional gearing, 
   Has a lot of the leg mounting hardware so legs can be swopped for repeat 
   operations. If interested you will have to do some research for your self. 
   Asking $650 for it without the router. $800 if the 3 1/2 HP porter Cable 
   plunge router is included. I would prefer pick up but delivery is an option 
   that can be discussed. 
   

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Re: A couple of completed projects.

[Dexter Bland]

Yes, I must say, that is some really fine work. I have had some ideas of 
making a desk using the same as you did with the turned posts on the 
corners.
db

On Monday, June 1, 2020 at 9:12:35 PM UTC-5, Love to turn in Oregon wrote:
>
> I recently complete a couple of night stands and dressers for my wife. I 
> was very happy that I had my legacy to add some bling to these. 
>

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Re: Sweet gum wood

[Dexter Bland]

Bill, 
Have you tried "renewing" the kitty litter. By that i mean taking it out 
and drying it in an oven or some other hot space? Chem labs use desiccant 
to draw the moisture out of samples and it turns from blue to pink when it 
has absorbed moisture. You can then put the desiccant in an oven to dry it 
out and re-use the crystals. 

On Wednesday, March 11, 2020 at 5:03:03 AM UTC-5, aussiman wrote:
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> kitty litter crystals is made of silica gel I just leave covered in the 
> litter in a sealed container usually for a couple of months depending on 
> wood thickness changing the crystals every few weeks or when the few 
> coloured crystals change colour if the litter has the few coloured crystals 
> in it mine does.
>
> and keep weighing the wood it till it stops getting lighter. I don’t 
> bother recharging or drying out the crystals kitty litter is cheap I just 
> throw it out. And this method does seem to help stop cracking by drying the 
> wood evenly all over provided it is totally submerged in the crystals. 
> There is a video out there somewhere of carl Jacobson doing the same thing 
> in rice.
>
>

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Re: big 1800 for sale

[Dexter Bland]

Looking on the history archive page, this unit looks like a 2000 model 
instead of 1800. Maybe they don't know what they really have?

On Thursday, July 25, 2019 at 10:27:58 AM UTC-5, aussiman wrote:
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Legacy-CNC-Ornamental-wood-working-machine/162842013290?hash=item25ea23ee6a:g:LxYAAOSwM~taU~Pe
>
>  
>
> Big old girl here looks like its done some really large jobs I see the 
> cross slide has been raised higher with some rail pieces to I assume 
> accommodate a very large dia job. Anyone looking for a monster mill here it 
> is
>
>  
>
> Bill
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free. 
> www.avast.com 
> 
>  
> <#01d542fd$84fe38f0$8efaaad0$@mmnet.com.au_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>

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Re: always wear your face sheld

[Dexter Bland]

This topic reminds me of a story I read several years ago.
A guy and his son are trying out a new lathe the father bought that had an 
electronic speed control that was not what the guy was used to. He chucked 
up a big piece of wood and started to turn it on then remembered to stop so 
they both could put on safety glasses. He then turned on the machine and 
stood back, not realizing that it was 10x's faster than he thought. The 
machine was so out of balance that is started walking across the floor and 
then threw the chunk of wood through the wall of the garage and falling 
over and unplugging itself. His son then turns to his dad and says "good 
thing we put our safety glasses on, huh dad."
db


>

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1800 for sale in NY

[Dexter Bland]

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?268633-Legacy-Woodworking-1800-Ornamental-Mill
Came across this ad for an 1800. He has lowered the price to $2,300 obo. 
Looks to have the instruction manual and all the parts with a few extras. 
Willing to ship at buyers expense.
db

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Re: Pottery engine lathe video

[Dexter Bland]

Question - where did the name "rose engine" come from? Inventor name?

On Monday, October 15, 2018 at 11:40:09 PM UTC-5, Curt George wrote:

>
> Hello Dexter
> Awesome Video. Like Bill said a Rose engine for clay. ;-) Neat stuff.
> I have been working along the lines you envision for the Legacy for a 
> number of years now, Yes I think it is possible for the Legacy to do things 
> like what you see in this video.
> Tim's Wave attachment, and my Rosetta follower are two modifications/ jigs 
> that I've made for my Legacy.
> Thanks for the idea, Hopefully I or someone else in our group will be able 
> to make something more...? The possibility's are there. ;-)
> Have a good night.
> C.A.G.
> [image: Inline image]
> [image: Inline image]
>   
> On Monday, October 15, 2018, 4:04:18 PM EDT, Dexter Bland <
> dexte...@gmail.com > wrote: 
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-7twF5_chU
>
> Curt should be interested in this video. This is a special lathe that is 
> used to cut patterns in pottery cups for doing inlays. I could envision a 
> legacy having some modifications to make this work. Of course, those who 
> have a CNC controlled unit could do this with the right programming.
> db 
>
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Pottery engine lathe video

[Dexter Bland]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n-7twF5_chU

Curt should be interested in this video. This is a special lathe that is 
used to cut patterns in pottery cups for doing inlays. I could envision a 
legacy having some modifications to make this work. Of course, those who 
have a CNC controlled unit could do this with the right programming.
db 

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Re: Design Kit

[Dexter Bland]

Ray,
A design kit is no longer available from Legacy or anywhere that I am aware 
of. It was a clear set of templates of the router shapes that Magnate sells 
that you could use to draw out the cuts on scaled paper to refine your 
design. You could then use your drawing to lay out your cuts on the 
machine. Attached is a PDF of the router shapes available from Magnate. 
db

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Router Bit Profiles.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document

Re: New member - Stan Partin

[Dexter Bland]

Stan,
Manual and other project info sent to your email. It will be like drinking 
from a firehose for a while. 
Good luck.
db

> -Original Message- 
> From: stanpar...@charter.net 
> Sent: Aug 13, 2018 8:41 PM 
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Subject: New member 
>
> Hello everyone,
>  he was unable to locate the owners/set up manualAssistance in 
> this matter would be much appreciated.
>
>

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Re: legacy for sale dallas texas

[Dexter Bland]

*Lot #3 - Legacy Lathe Router* 
Closes:  4/25/18 1:40 PM EDT 
Dallas, TX 

Current Bid = $1,779 
[image: Bidding is closed] 

Somebody got a deal.

On Tuesday, April 10, 2018 at 4:20:57 PM UTC-5, joe biunno wrote:

> ok, i'm an idiot!... forgot to post the link!... I edited my post, but in 
> case that did not work, here is the link 
> http://www.irsauctions.com/popups/bidders_paddle.asp?lot=378033=5NWEOB9B5MFVQC3MFTBAHLGQ3EGPD5=21837
>
>

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Re: legacy for sale dallas texas

[Dexter Bland]

I have purchased tools from this auction site before. Bidding does get 
crazy sometimes like any auction. You do have to consider the 15% they are 
going to add to your winning bid in what you are willing to pay. Have the 
money ready to send if you are the winner. They want payment sent right 
away. 
Although it is not an issue on this sale, Some places charge a 
non-negotiable loading fee. Sometimes the loading fee is as much as the 
item is worth. You really don't want to pay $50 to load something you won 
on a $120 bid and something you can bring a dolly and get all by yourself.
db

On Monday, April 16, 2018 at 3:09:01 AM UTC-5, Tim wrote:

> The reserve has been met at $500. The only thing that I see is missing 
> gears including the standard duplex and main gear and all the letter gears 
> except the one that is one the machine. I bet there is a box sitting around 
> that shop with them! There's a huge load of router bits that come with the 
> mill that is worth over $1000 alone. The router has the eliminator chuck so 
> that's ready to go. It looks like this could go really cheap relatively 
> speaking.
>
> Tim
>

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Re: A response from Andy Anderson Of Legacy Regarding Support.

[Dexter Bland]

"I don't take or process phone orders.  The only time I'll end up on the 
phone with a customer is if he or she is a friend, or has a difficult 
question that someone else on the staff can't answer, or I end up on the 
phone with those customers that are rude, crude, abusive, curse, or have no 
manners."

I will address this comment as it seems directed at my criticism of 
Legacy not selling hubs to me. Andy, you did not answer the sales call nor 
did I ask to speak to you. Some lady took the call to the sales line 
and was pleasant. I was just asking to buy a few parts that were 
still listed on the web site but were told were no longer available. My 
call was passed along to you Andy, and you asked me if I was a second-hand 
mill buyer. When I answered yes, you then told me you would not sell me 
parts. Maybe you had a bad day, maybe you thought I was trying to buy 
something to copy and then sell, I don't know. After reading your response 
to the group, I kinda think that must have been what you thought. This 
conversation was probably 5-6 years ago, and you, have taken many more 
calls since then so not remembering this conversation would not surprise 
me. I was not rude nor did I cuss anyone as that is not my nature. Actually 
I was more stunned by your answer than anything. 

The only reason I brought up this issue in the first place was one 
commenter said he was needing/looking for hubs and the pilaster dogs. I was 
letting him know of my experience and to not count on being able to buy 
them from Legacy. If you have changed your mind on selling parts that you 
still make, great.

Sorry to bring this up, Tim and Curt. I did not wish to take away from the 
help this comment board supplies. There are loads of interesting and 
informative conversations here and hope it continues. There are several 
here that impress me with their creativity and ability. 
db


>

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Re: If you have not been watching ???

[Dexter Bland]

Sorry, but I have quite a bad opinion of the Legacy folks. I tried to order 
some more hubs several years ago and was told by Andy himself he would not 
sell me any because I was a second-hand mill purchaser.  A part they still 
produced and had in stock and would sell to others, but would not sell any 
to me. Good luck to anyone who takes the chance to do business with them 
now. 

They produced a very ingenious product that caught my imagination when I 
saw it at the Woodworking Show but was too much for a guy who treats 
woodworking as a minor sideline and hobby.  Like Curt, I like the manual 
aspect of the machine so a computer controlled machine is not for me. Even 
if it was, Legacy would be last on the list...

Just my 2 cents. Worth just what you paid for it...
db


>

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Re: If you have not been watching ???

[Dexter Bland]

As bad an attitude as I have regarding Legacy from bad/*no service*, they 
did at least give links for people to get help, including this one. As 
small as this gesture is, it is at least something.

https://lwmcnc.com/cnc-mills/past-models/ornamental-mills/support-groups/

Still does not make me the least bit interested in buying anything they 
make.  
db


>

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Re: Porch Column Base

[Dexter Bland]

Lou,
Most of the Cypress you buy today is not that rot resistant. Unless you can 
get some of the old growth stuff, it is not worth using. It is also pretty 
soft wood. White oak is a good choice as it is rot resistant and a very 
hard wood and would hold up to abuse. White Oak does not readily absorb 
moisture so it has been used as the floor timbers for centuries until 
pressure treated came on the market. It is what whisky barrels are made of 
due to its properties. Most posts are hollow for air passage to allow 
drying and reduce rot.

A few years ago I made a round mirror frame and used my mitersaw to cut the 
angles to make the circle. It was done in about 14 or 16 pieces. It is 
almost impossible to get that many joints cut perfect so that when the 
circle is put together, that all joints will be tight. I figured out a way 
to cheat. I got the angle really close and cut all the blocks. I then glued 
together one half and then the other half as a group. You can then mount 
the half on a board and cut a straight line on the tablesaw using the 
fence. With the two halves now cut straight, just glue the two and there 
you are with all the joints perfectly tight. No one has to know you didn't 
cut all those joints perfect unless you tell them.
db


On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 1:36:54 PM UTC-5, Lou Lossi wrote:

> Cypress was another wood I considered besides white oak and mahogany. 
> These will eventually be painted white to match the porch, but not by me. 
> Thanks Mike.
>
> On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 12:55:14 PM UTC-4, Michael Kratky wrote:
>>
>> Consider cypress one the most rot resistant wood species available and 
>> affordable.
>>
>> Mike K
>>
>>  
>>
>

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Re: Vent cover

[Dexter Bland]

I like the idea of the v-grove bit and it is not too late to do that. I'll 
ask the homeowner about how to hold the cover on. However attached, 
it needs to be removable.
Thanks for the suggestions.

On Wednesday, August 9, 2017 at 10:46:05 PM UTC-5, Va Oak wrote:

> Dexter,
>
> Very well done.  GREAT job.  Thanks for sharing.
>
> If you make another, give thought to flipping the board over and running a 
> 60 degree V-groove bit down the centerline of each slot/vent opening.  That 
> will allow for a bit better airflow through the slots and reduce 
> backpressure in the ducting. 
>
> How are you securing it over the opening in the toe kick board?  Rather 
> than marring your beautiful work with screws, try either 3M Command Strips 
> (pick one with only a few pounds of pull) or a strip of  "hook & loop" 
> (Velcro®) at each end.
>
> Just my 2 cent's worth.
>
>
>

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Re: U.K. Legacys

[Dexter Bland]

Mac,
I wondered if anyone else picked up on the dead coffin business comment. 
Maybe cremation is getting more popular.

I was asked to build someone a coffin once for someone's grandmother that 
was in bad health. Turned down the job due to the short amount of time they 
gave to complete.  I was unsure if there were any state requirements on the 
enclosure, where to get the hardware, and just totally unfamiliar with 
design considerations other than the general LxWxH. Never did any research 
to answer any of my questions. 

DB

On Wednesday, April 5, 2017 at 10:54:02 AM UTC-5, Va Oak wrote:

> Roger,
>
> Interesting info. - thanks for sharing.
> Regarding your answer "f." below:
>
> When a coffin making business dies, who makes the coffin for IT? 
> (I couldn't resist - your choice of words for the demise of the company 
> set this one up. Intentional on your part?
> This Group needs some occasional levity.)
>
> Blessings to all.
> Mac 
>
>

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Re: Wood Chuck oversize reeding

[Dexter Bland]

>
> anything is possible given enough spare part and a liberal amount "no 
> matter what" attitude.  Hats off to the go-getters!
>

Mike, you have to be the king of the go-getters. You never fail to impress 
me with the kind of work I have seen of yours. db

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Re: candy dish

[Dexter Bland]

Yes, Tim there is lots of sanding on doing spirals. Due to cutting into a 
cylinder, you are exposing a lot of end grain that is not easy to get 
smooth. A good sharp router bit is best to start with as smooth a cut as 
possible. Most of the spiral turnings that I have done were before I added 
a motor so I just sit in a chair and sanded all by hand. With the wood 
being Walnut, that makes the sanding even more difficult because that is a 
pretty "hard" wood. I have resisted getting a sanding mop since it is 
something I would not use that often and the sandpaper you use on it could 
not be used on any of the other sanders I already have. I already own about 
6 other kind of sanders. OK Mike gives the most practical suggestion of 
using strips of sandpaper to "shoeshine" the turning while it is 
still slowing turning on the machine. Sanding is the most un-fun part of 
woodworking, but a bad job will show like wart on your nose when finish is 
applied. 

On Thursday, August 11, 2016 at 8:40:55 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:
>
> Good comment Dexter, 
>  
> I'm going to admit something as your fearless leader, I've never done a 
> spiral!  Is there a lot of sanding involved when doing a twist?  I'm 
> guessing the quickest way would be to use some cloth backed sandpaper 
> strips and go up the grits. Can anyone please share some experience here. 
>  
> -Tim
>
>

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Re: candy dish

[Dexter Bland]

Stan,
Very nice work. The wood appears to be walnut. I'm sure lots of time 
sanding the spindles. What kind of finish did you use? Some poly or tongue 
oil?

On Tuesday, August 9, 2016 at 10:02:31 PM UTC-5, Stan Eichelberger wrote:

> candy dish made for Mansfield  State Prison honor  guard to thank the 
> furnual home where they practice.  Spindles made on 900 mill
>

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Re: Model Number

[Dexter Bland]

If your machine has one, it will have sticker attached to the headstock 
like the one you see in the attached photo from Tim's history page. It also 
has an outline of the different gear diameters that will tell you what 
letter that gear is so that you can look on the chart to get the pitch you 
want. The sticker/label on my 1000xl looks a bit different than the one in 
the picture where it is just black text on a clear background. 

On Saturday, July 9, 2016 at 6:01:59 PM UTC-5, John Koonce wrote:

> Where is the model number on my Legacy Ornamental Mill?
>
> John Koonce
>

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Re: All I want For Christmas

[Dexter Bland]

I use a shaper to make the doors (an old delta machine). Cutting that much 
material at once is really hard on a router and if you pause during the cut 
it will burn the wood. Shapers cutters turn much slower and rarely ever 
leave burn marks. The frame pieces are Roman Ogee and the standard cope for 
the raised panel cut.

On Saturday, February 27, 2016 at 3:32:21 AM UTC-6, Arkady Paka wrote:
>
> Nice Kitchen Dexter!
> What router bits have you use for doors.
> Arkady.
>
>> --
>>
>>

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Re: All I want For Christmas

[Dexter Bland]

> "By the time the I finish with my last set of clamps, the first set has 
> had enough time to be removed and used again.  From that point it is just a 
> matter of cycling clamps onto new boards and taking the cured boards to the 
> next work station."  
>
 

> Mike
> OK
>
When I saw your impressive photo, my very first thought was that by the 
> time you got finished with the last one, you could take the clamps off the 
> first. Just when you think you have enough, a project comes along that you 
> use all the clamps you have and could use a few more. Did you hear that 
> Santa? More clamps please...
>
DB 
 
 
 
 

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Re: All I want For Christmas

[Dexter Bland]

Mac,
You are correct that it is (will be) a corner wall cabinet that will have 
an appliance garage below (all built as one). The complication is that the 
45 degree joint between the plywood and solid wood face frame is a finished 
edge. I join the two with a rabbit joint to get a solid glue connection 
between face frame and side panel. Not easy to make that joint fit tight 
with the clamping angle and odd shape. Hence the 18 clamps on the 
one cabinet.
db

On Tuesday, December 8, 2015 at 11:24:42 AM UTC-6, Va Oak wrote:

> Dex,
> OK - I give up - what is it you are making (item in the attached photo)?
> Looks like it might be going to be a cabinet.
> Any more pictures of it to share?
> Thanks.
> Mac
> --
> --
>
> -Original Message- 
> From: Dexter Bland 
> Sent: Dec 7, 2015 9:35 PM 
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills 
> Subject: All I want For Christmas 
>
> Might I make a suggestion if you have not figured out what you might need 
> for Christmas
>
>

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Re: What would you do???

[Dexter Bland]

I like it. The only thing missing is pulling out a chisel and carving out 
the toe's and making it a claw-foot table. Now the only problem is how to 
get out of your shop. If yours is like mine, space is at premium.
db

  


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Re: What would you do???

[Dexter Bland]

 The rest of the table is quite plain,so I would not make a jack-a-lope out 
 of it as someone else described it. If you are not going to keep it, i 
 would sell it or give to some needy college student to use. I would sell it 
 for at least the cost of poly and sand paper that you have used on it. Not 
 a bad looking table for what it is.

db 

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Re: Project Idea

[Dexter Bland]

Had to come up with a way to hold the box, hence the mounted board on the 
legacy. It would be almost  impossible to cut the pieces and then glue them 
together and all the cuts line up perfectly. 
 
Mike, I used your number of cranks to determine distance moved instead of 
using the scale. Makes the process go much faster and probably more 
accurate. That was a very valuable hint.
On Monday, May 4, 2015 at 9:05:24 AM UTC-5, LILtwisted wrote:

  Hello Dexter, Great project.  I am just getting off the road and going 
 through the group posts.  I like the way you dropped the pre-built box down 
 to surface level to accomplish the cuts, way to start with the end in 
 mind.  Keep up the good work, it's the little details that make the wow.

 Mike
 OK

 


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Re: Making your mark?

[Dexter Bland]

On small projects I don't usually bother, but on bigger things I do sign 
and put a date. On things that might matter in the future, I will write on 
the bottom of some drawer what stain color/number and brand used and what 
top coat was used. That would just make things easier if the whole item or 
some part needs refinishing in the future.
 db

  
 On your projects how do you mark your works when done? I mean branding 
 irons, stating who made this product. A marker of some-kind? or date???
 Do things like that just don't interest you. or is it not important? What 
 do you think?



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Re: how to mount dewalt 3hp plunge router on legacy 600exl

[Dexter Bland]

All these suggestions on how to position the router to attach shows that 
there is always more than one way to skin a cat than just yanking him on 
the tail

On Tuesday, February 17, 2015 at 1:56:53 AM UTC-6, Dave Chrusciel wrote:

 i have a legacy 600exl  and i know it is designed to use the pc router. i 
 have a new 3hp dewalt with 3 mounting holes. i will probably have to drill 
 some holes to mount the dewalt router, any suggestions on how to mount it 
 so it is centered. does anyone have a legacy ornamental mill with a dewalt 
 plunge router.  


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Re: how to mount dewalt 3hp plunge router on legacy 600exl

[Dexter Bland]

I should post pictures of the 11' x 14' bookshelf soon. Unit installed but 
I just have to finish the finish on the library ladder and slide on the 
rail. This darn cold weather makes spraying poly a problem. No heat in the 
shop (currently). 
 
Customer is quite pleased so far. That is what really matters.

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:09:12 PM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

 Hay Dexter,
 Variety is the Spice of Life. 
 There are/is almost always , more then one way to do anything correctly. 
  But learning the different ways can be a lot of fun.

 Take care AND Good luck on your project.And Please let us know how it 
 turns out. ;-)
 C.A.G.

 --
 *From: *Dexter Bland dexte...@gmail.com javascript:
 *To: *legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 *Sent: *Thursday, February 19, 2015 8:46:43 AM
 *Subject: *Re: how to mount dewalt 3hp plunge router on legacy 600exl

 All these suggestions on how to position the router to attach shows that 
 there is always more than one way to skin a cat than just yanking him on 
 the tail

 On Tuesday, February 17, 2015 at 1:56:53 AM UTC-6, Dave Chrusciel wrote:

 i have a legacy 600exl  and i know it is designed to use the pc router. i 
 have a new 3hp dewalt with 3 mounting holes. i will probably have to drill 
 some holes to mount the dewalt router, any suggestions on how to mount it 
 so it is centered. does anyone have a legacy ornamental mill with a dewalt 
 plunge router.  

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Re: enlarging turning capacity of a legacy

[Dexter Bland]

Joe, I have a question for you.
Are you assuming that the spindle is centered in the machine or have you 
verified that with actually measuring? The reason I ask is that my machine 
is not exactly centered. The reason I know this is I turned my tail- stock 
over so I could get to the bolts from the top instead of normally from 
underneath. When I did that, my head and tail-stock were out of alignment. 
To fix this I also rolled the tail-stock and reinstalled the quick-release 
tail-stock components to face the proper direction. I'm not sure if this 
small difference will present any problem, but I thought I would bring it 
to your attention.
 
For what it's worth, both you and Curt should be working in somebodies RD 
section. You both ask the what if question all the time and usually come 
back with the answer of why not. Amazing work.
DB

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Re: Making Rosettes

[Dexter Bland]

You are right Curt, it is a tight fit to move the the stop to the next 
position and another wheel would give you more room. That would open the 
possibilites of many more combinations with using different size wheels. I 
had made another one of these in the past, but it didn't have the number 
combo that I needed. I wanted 16 and had made an index wheel with 40 
positions. That would not give me the number of positions or spokes I was 
looking for. As it is, I ended up with 18 instead, which was close enough. 
There have been several new guys asking questoins lately, so I decided to 
show them how to make a rotary table with what they already have since the 
Legacy version would be hard to come by. I give hints on the easy stuff, 
you guys cover the much more complicated stuff.
DB

On Tuesday, January 13, 2015 at 3:16:40 AM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

 Very nice Dexter.
 I like you turn table and Rosettes.
 You should add one more small gear onto your turn table design, to make it 
 easer to get the clearance between your router carrage and the work peice. 
 But Your table and lock as KISS simple. (I like it, that's a A+ in my book!)
 C.A.G.

  


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Re: What do you all think???

[Dexter Bland]

I think it is a neat neat job, but if the person needs a cane to get around 
because they are unsteady, looking at that pattern may make them kinda 
dizzy  ;)   ..really cool job,  Curt.
 
DB
On Monday, January 12, 2015 at 6:29:32 PM UTC-6, Curtis wrote:

 Thank you Mike.
 I want to see what others think of this before I add more...
 But Im glad to hear that you like it. ;-)
 C.A.G.

 --
 *From: *Okla Mike (Liltwisted) legac...@iglide.net javascript:
 *To: *legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com javascript:
 *Sent: *Monday, January 12, 2015 7:21:17 PM
 *Subject: *Re: What do you all think???

 That is pretty dang slick Curtis, you have gone from a wave to a rose 
 lathe, sweet!
 On 1/12/2015 6:11 PM, CURTIS GEORGE wrote:
  
  
  
  
  Hello Everyone, Just a few pictures of my set up. Any and all comments 
 are welcome.
 C.A.G.

  
  
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Re: Wood Data Base

[Dexter Bland]

Curt,
The web page link did not tell all the story of the Paulownia tree. It was 
accidently introduced from Asia. The seed is a very fluffy seed that had 
been used as a packing material and the seed dispersed with the wind when 
unpacking crates on loading docks. The wood is much desired in Japan as it 
has been nearly wiped out there due to some disease there like the American 
Chestnut tree here in the US is almost gone. The wood is desired because of 
the wood properties. It has very small pores so it is very stable wood. 
Since it does not shrink/swell much or any with the changes in humidity, 
it was used to make ceremonial boxes that would fit together with great 
precision. It was discovered by a visiting Japanese businessman that trees 
were growing here and prime specimen trees garnered lots of $'s and so word 
spread and plantations were planted to make money to grow the desired wood. 
Problem is in the South, the tree grows too quickly and the quality of the 
wood is not what the Japanese craftsmen are looking for. In many places 
today, the tree is considered an invasive that needs controlled. 
DB

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Re: Magnate router bits

[Dexter Bland]

 MCLS is a place that i have ordered some of my router bits. They do make 
 some that fit the legacy type of milling. Take a look around their site to 
 see if they may have what you are looking for. Some bits look to be a 
 little cheaper than Magnate and some more. 

 

 Attached is a link to another one of their new products that looks 
 interesting to me to make a Z-axis. I have not had the shop time lately to 
 investigate to see if this will fit on the plate of the 1000 unit that i 
 have, but this looks to be much more beefy construction that some of the 
 other router mounts in the past that I have considered. 

 
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/u-turn-lift.html

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Re: I bet no one leaves there shop unused this long

[Dexter Bland]

There is an antibellum house on the Bluff overlooking the river in 
Vicksburg MS that was being built when the war of northern aggression 
started. Most of the tradesmen were from the north and when hearing that 
war had started, dropped their tools and left. Those tools are still laying 
right where they dropped them today. The bottom two floors were completed 
and the workers were working on the two top floors. I remember seeing a 
picture of a hammer a bucket of nails among the incomplete room. Really 
cool that was left intact.
Dexter  

On Wednesday, March 19, 2014 1:08:35 PM UTC-5, Curtis wrote:

 The artical is nice, but I dont see any pictures of the inside.  I will 
 check it out latter, perhaps the web at the hospital is stoping me form 
 seeing WHAT Im looking for? (its happend in the past, I will check it out 
 when I get home.)  AnyHow, Thanks for the link I hope the pictures are as 
 good as the write-up.  ;-)
 C.A.G.



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Re: legacy manual

[Dexter Bland]

Send me your email address and I will send you the manual. dexterbland 
(at)gmail(dot)com. I have in cut scanned in PDF form in pieces that are 
small enough to email.
On Tuesday, February 11, 2014 7:17:14 PM UTC-6, Dan Appel wrote:

 Any chance of getting an email of the manual.  If it is too large, how 
 about an upload to an FTP site like Dropbox?  That way anyone who wished 
 could download it.

 Dan


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Re: New Legacy Drill press

[Dexter Bland]

You have to hand it to the people who are always asking what if... Curt 
is certainly one of those guys.
 
Legacy should put you on the product development team, Curt. 
DB

On Saturday, December 14, 2013 11:22:53 PM UTC-6, LILtwisted wrote:

  The smartest people I know are the ones that are willing to learn, and 
 never think they are the smartest in the world.  Great Job Curt
 Mike
 OK
  


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Re: It Gets No Better: A 1500 in Altamonte Spring, Fl for $500

[Dexter Bland]

What is milling length of the 1500exl?
 
 Sunday, October 20, 2013 4:43:29 AM UTC-5, Begat wrote:

 Hello Everyone,

 There is a 1500 with a motor for sell in Altamonte Springs, Florida for 
 $500.  Has manuals etc.  Too far from me otherwise I would be there today.

 http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/4139720699.html




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Re: It Gets No Better: A 1500 in Altamonte Spring, Fl for $500

[Dexter Bland]

It does look shorter than the 1500 model in the photos and the new price he 
stated would have been one of the smaller models. I don't think the 1500 
sold for just $2800.
If you knew the size of the tile on the floor, you could probably figure 
out the true length.
Dex

On Sunday, October 20, 2013 3:59:38 PM UTC-5, Tim wrote:

  80 in theory.  That unit looks short to me for some reason.
  
 -Tim
  


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Re: It Gets No Better: A 1500 in Altamonte Spring, Fl for $500

[Dexter Bland]

I sent this guy a question regarding the length of the the machine and here 
was his reply ---
 
I can measure it when I get back in town , but I am sure it does up to 4' 
or so
 
This tells you this is not a 1500, but still a good deal at just $500 
especially with the motor. Just that with the controller is worth the 
asking price. Good luck.

Hello Everyone,

 There is a 1500 with a motor for sell in Altamonte Springs, Florida for 
 $500.  Has manuals etc.  Too far from me otherwise I would be there today.

 http://orlando.craigslist.org/tls/4139720699.html

 Hi Begat ,I have been a lurker now for sometime,I had A revo once but sold 
 it and went away for awhile after losing my dear wife to the big C.this 
 unit is on Craigs list and I have tried for a few like it but never get any 
 answers,I think their policy cuts out non local buyer contact,have you any 
 ideas of what to do to get in contact with the vendor,I will pay all costs 
 and dues,this is to help a young relative back into civvies,not all of him 
 made it back from Helmland prov.please help if you can,  MAC.


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Re: lead screw support on longer legacy mills...models 2000 and 2200

[Dexter Bland]

Here is how I mounted my limit switch so that only the one plate would be 
needed to mount it and the carriage would trip the switch directly. 
 

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attachment: LimitSwitch 128x160.jpg

Re: woodchuck model MA-12 purchase

[Dexter Bland]

Here is a way I figured out how to mount the limit switch. The switch is 
mounted on a flat stock (in this case a piece of plexiglass I had) and just 
a screw into a nut in the top rail. The edge of the plexiglass is where the 
switch opens to stop the motor. Since this switch has an arm that is 
adjustable in length, you can adjust it were the switch will open just when 
the carriage meets the plate holding the switch. Here is a picture that 
will explain more than my words have... 

On Tuesday, August 13, 2013 10:15:01 AM UTC-5, finu...@aol.com wrote:

 joe biunno here...new comer to this group and for those who don't know me, 
 i was the buyer of the 1800a with the cnc package that was in florida and 
 listed on ebay...in a previous reply i had posted my intentions of 
 attempting to extend the length between centers of the 1800 to something in 
 the neighborhood of 12-14 ft(to be used to make drapery poles...an item we 
 manufacture)...the idea being to buy another machine(ideally, another 1800) 
 and combine the two as necessary...been scouring around and talking to 
 fellow woodworkers and through a friend, came in contact with a woodworker 
 who had a woodchuck model MA-12...as it turned out, the machine was given 
 to this person by the person who connected us in the first place...he had 
 not used the machine since he got it and actually was using a different 
 model legacy( a bit simpler, as he described it)...under all the 
 circumstances, he sold the woodchuck to me for 100.00...an incredible price 
 for sure, but not the machine i could use for my upcoming mod attempt...i 
 purchased it for two reasons- to use for smaller furniture parts (legs, 
 finials, etc.) and for parts, should i need any...knowing that legacy has 
 issues with supplying parts...the machine is very complete...seems to be 
 80 between centers...manufactured in august of 1995...has the standard 
 gears, of course, but also seems to have the 2x,.5x and .25x add on gear 
 sets...as well as additional indexing plates that are colored red, for some 
 reason...a center work support...12 and 8 position drive centers...a drive 
 motor on the lead screw...a #2 morse taper in the head stock(but no ball 
 bearings-bummer!) and #2 in the tailstock as well...an assortment of 
 mounting flanges...assembly manual/media kit...what it does not have is is 
 the spindle drive motor, the template follower and limit switches...i would 
 be interested in any of these, if anyone out there has them for 
 sale/trade...of course, would consider a sale or exchange( with $ from me) 
 involving this machine, if anyone is interested...thanks to all!   
 
 
 
 
 
   


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attachment: LimitSwitch 128x160.jpg

Re: Four, Yes, Four 900s for Sale on Ebay for $2500 Each out of Texas

[Dexter Bland]

I have a PDF that I copied from somewhere that has the adaptor plate
that you are refering to. Send a message to dexterbl...@gmail.com and
I will send you the file. I'm not seeing how to attach to this
message.
Dexter

On Mar 26, 9:11 pm, Brandon Khoury blkhou...@gmail.com wrote:
 That's kinda what I figured. I remember seeing a download from the legacy 
 website for the z-axis upgrade modifications for the 1000. I think there was 
 an alternate plate to use with the drive screw split nut. I don't mean to 
 hijack this thread, but has anyone attempted to build their own z-axis? I 
 have an idea, but if someone out there already has a proven method I would 
 love to see their design.

 Brandon

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Re: New Self adjusting steady rest

[Dexter Bland]

Really cool idea Curt. Is there a reason that the top arms are not
wider apart and the the two arms connected with one spring? That would
make the design a little more simple. Wouldn't the part you are
cutting keep the jig centered or does it need the centering that the
two springs provide? Just food for thought.
Dexter

 Please let me know what you think?
 But So far I'm pretty happy with the results. ;-)
 C.A.G.


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Re: Motorized router lifter

[Dexter Bland]

Curt,
This really does not come to the level of CNC. I , like you, don't
really want to go to the level of computer programming to create
something. Currently, my biggest problem that I have with my machine
is the slop in the router plunge legs. A rig like what I found would
be perfect for the machine we both have (1000ex) IF it wasn't too wide
to fit in the carriage space and if would hold the larger router. Just
from looking at this, the base plate on the router lifter could be cut
down, drilled/tapped for the 4 holes that bolt the plate to the slides
on the carriage and just replace the current aluminum base plate. The
lift controls could be mounted with the x axis motor controls where
you could stop a the turing and raise the router to keep from burning
the wood at the end of a cut such as fluting or some twist/rope
cutting project. The one thing that probably would not be made better
is increasing plunge depth.
I am now unsure about using a smaller router. Not so much for the loss
of power as much as ability of the bearings to handle the abuse. I put
a 2.5 bit in my 1.75hp PC router mounted in my work bench (my router
table) and the bearings sound as though it didn't like it at all.
To any one who cares to comment...
I do have another question. Back in 07 there was alot of discussion
about upgrading the router carriage slides to v-groove wheels/track to
reduce friction. If one did upgrade this feature, would it not reduce
the wear on the split nut due to the big reduction in resistance?
For those newer to this forum like myself, I highly recomend reading
thru the previous years comments/hints/info. It is a treasure trove of
information/ideas. My many thanks to all who have contrubuted.
Dexter

On Jul 13, 4:00 am, Curtis curtgeo...@wowway.com wrote:
 Dexter That's a neat idea.
 We have talked aoubt THIS idea before.
 The funny thing here is, I sorta like the concept, but Dis-like the CNC
 stuff.
 I guess it just babby steps, Step by step we try to gain more control of
 our Legacy's. ;-)
 C.A.G.

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Re: Motorized router lifter

[Dexter Bland]

The router movement side to side is greatest when plunging. You can
get the carriage to move on the side opposite of the split nut, but
very little. If I was to create a lock on that side, that would
eliminate that smaller problem. The biggest issue is trying to plunge
the router without it wiggling on the way down. It moves side to side
about 1/16 of an inch. Once the lock is engaged, it can move only
slightly.

My comment about the split nut was in response to comments others have
made in past postings about wearing out the split nut. I don’t really
have a lot of friction issues like I have seen Curt comment on with
his mill. I have recently added a x-drive motor and am concerned about
wearing out my split nut which is a part you can’t get down at the
hardware store.

The smaller routers are not designed for the larger cutters. One
indication is the lack of ability to change the speed on the router. I
currently don’t turn or make large items, but have future ambitions of
larger stuff as my abilities improve and dream up other things to
make. Unless other 3.5” diameter routers are built more robust than
the 1.75hp PC that I have, I have reservations about downgrading to a
smaller router.
Dexter

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Motorized router lifter

[Dexter Bland]

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/powerlift.html?gclid=CKDzybqjjbECFQZ5hwodl1wdig#routersize_anchor
I stumbled across this goodie today. Unfortunately the larger 3.5hp
routers will not fit in this unit (4.2” diameter). I do see it as a
great possibility in upgrading a standard carriage to a z-axis upgrade
that has a motorized control with a depth stop and digital scale. If
this could hold a larger router, I could replace my base plate of my
router carriage by just drilling/tapping 4 holes to attach the slides.
So close, and yet so far to a z-axis upgrade….
Dexter

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Free CAD program

[Dexter Bland]

http://www.solidworks.com/sw/products/free_2d_tools.htm
For those who use a computer to design what they make, here is a site where
you can get a free CAD program that is 2D only. They use this freebee to
entice you to buy the 3D version of the program. It is almost identical to
autocad (so I'm told by someone who uses it a lot). You do have to register
your name and e-mail address to use it. There is also a user manual that
you can download from the website as well.

-- 
Dexter Bland
All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do
nothing. Edmund Burke

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Re: slab coffee table

[Dexter Bland]

That block must weigh a lot. 
Very nice work. Don't forget to post the completed project photos.
Dexter 


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Re: Coffee Table Project

[Dexter Bland]

For those who are thinking of doing some fuming, I would suggest the u-haul 
trailer method for two reasons. One, it gets the smell away from your shop. 
For those who use the garage that is attached to your house as a shop, this 
would be a must. Second, it would be difficult to seal in the ammonia with 
plastic sheeting. The strong solution will really make your eyes burn if 
exposed for very long. If you have multiple pieces to do, it really is less 
expensive to rent a trailer than buy all the plastic sheeting and build a 
frame to put in on. The other thing to consider is if you have multiple 
pieces, you need them to be exposed the same length of time so they will be 
the same color. I'm not sure if temperature or moisture level changes the 
chemical reaction of the wood with the ammonia like when you pickle stain 
something, so doing all pieces at the same time in the same conditions is 
important.
Dexter

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Re: Motor installation

[Dexter Bland]

Curt,
Thanks for the info. I found another Dayton motor (4Z128b) that has
more power and speed and has the same frame size for a great price.
The mounting holes, shaft size and shaft length were identical to the
standard motor set-up so it fits the end plate that was already on my
mill. I have ordered some limit switches that I think will be what I
need. The controller will have to wait on some more money to show up
in the bank account...
Dexter

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Re: $2000 for a Pretty 1200

[Dexter Bland]

I have seen this photo before on the sawmillcreek dot net web page in
the classifieds section a couple of months ago. It is located in LA,
CA and it is a 1200. His previous post on that web listing said he was
preparing to move

On Jun 1, 8:38 pm, Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net wrote:
 The ends are different on a 1500.  It looks like a 1200 to me.

 -Tim

   - Original Message -
   From: Louis Brown
   To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
   Sent: Friday, June 01, 2012 12:41 PM
   Subject: Re: $2000 for a Pretty 1200

   Hello Again,

   Although the guy says 1200 and it has an upgraded Z axis, this machine 
 looks more like a 1500 to me.

   Begat

   On Fri, Jun 1, 2012 at 3:36 PM, Begat bega...@gmail.com wrote:

     Hello All,

     A guy on Router Forums is selling a 1200 with an upgraded z axis, a 
 motor, and wheels for 2K.  
 http://www.routerforums.com/woodworking-classifieds/34786-legacy-mill...

     No location is listed.

     Begat

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Re: Podium project

[Dexter Bland]

The reason that I mentioned where the wood was from, usually this far
south walnut tends to be a darker color.

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Podium project

[Dexter Bland]

Here is a podium that I made about a year ago. It is made of Walnut
(cut from N Alabama) with a Tung Oil finish (not sure how many coats)
that was sanded between each coat with steel wool. The top is made in
two pieces. The lower piece is glued and screwed to the shaft and then
the top just glued. I made sure the two pieces had the grain opposing
each other to keep it flat. The shaft is 3 and is cut with the barley
twist.

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attachment: Woodworking 001.jpgattachment: Woodworking 005.jpg

Podium Project

[Dexter Bland]

The legs are attached with a dovetail joint. I cut the groove with the
legacy. As has been discussed here before, this machine is not really
that good at doing dovetail joints. Really, most of the slop in
movement was from the plunge legs of the router. I cut the leg part of
the dovetail joint with a router table and had to cut them to fit one
at a time since the grooves were not exactly the same size. I did put
screws in from the bottom to pin the legs so they wouldn't move while
the glue dried.

-- 
Dexter Bland
All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do
nothing. Edmund Burke

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attachment: Woodworking 002.jpgattachment: Woodworking 003.jpg

Re: Podium project

[Dexter Bland]

Yep, Piedmont area...

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Re: Podium Project

[Dexter Bland]

Tim, yes I did use a straight cutting bit to remove the center wood
first. The router is the standard PC set-up. I purchased it with the
mill so I'm not sure how many miles were on it before I got it. It
does have a fair bit of play in it. I could make the photos larger, I
was just trying to limit the KB size. I'll resize and send.
Curt, the other photos are on the other message a little further down.
Yes, I did put a routed edge on the top. Roman Ogee on the top piece
and a cove on the bottom.

On May 31, 7:52 pm, curt george curtgeo...@wowway.com wrote:
 Hello Dexter.
 Very nice job on that stand,.that is something to be proud of. You did a
 very nice job on it. I did not see any top pictures did you add any groves
 or details on that as well?
 Have a good night.
 C.A.G.



 - Original Message -
 From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com
 To: legacy-ornamental-mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, May 31, 2012 7:17 PM
 Subject: Podium Project

  The legs are attached with a dovetail joint. I cut the groove with the
  legacy. As has been discussed here before, this machine is not really
  that good at doing dovetail joints. Really, most of the slop in
  movement was from the plunge legs of the router. I cut the leg part of
  the dovetail joint with a router table and had to cut them to fit one
  at a time since the grooves were not exactly the same size. I did put
  screws in from the bottom to pin the legs so they wouldn't move while
  the glue dried.

  --
  Dexter Bland
  All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do
  nothing. Edmund Burke

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Re: Index holes in 2x and .25 gears

[Dexter Bland]

Tim
I don't know if they made different variations, but my sets have the
following index holes:
.25 has 36 holes
1 has 40 holes
2x has 24 holes
---
Dexter

On May 20, 9:05 pm, Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net wrote:
 How many index holes are in the 2x and .25 gear reduction set?  Legacy's site 
 says both have 24 but I don't think that is right.  My past records showed 
 the .25 has 48 holes and I want to make sure that is right.

 -Tim

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Re: Home Made Rotary Table

[Dexter Bland]

I post a couple pictures and explanation in a new post. This is
getting off topic.

On May 17, 7:38 pm, Tim Krause artmarb...@comcast.net wrote:
 Please do post your version of a simple rotary table.  We have a lot of
 frugal lurkers on the list that would be interested.  They are just too shy
 to ask.

 -Tim

 - Original Message -
 From: Dexter Bland dexterbl...@gmail.com
 To: Legacy Ornamental Mills legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Thursday, May 17, 2012 3:05 AM
 Subject: Re: Shipping a LOM and/or Heavy accessories

  I have made a simple indexing
 rotary table to make bases for candle sticks. I could show how to do
 that here. You can use the index wheels that you currently have to
 make wooden ones that you then mount on plywood that is attached to
 the rails. It costs almost nothing and isn't that hard to make. You
 are limited in size since the wheel you can make will have to fit
 between the rails.
 Dexter

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Homemade Indexing table

[Dexter Bland]

I made a cheap index rotary table that I needed to make some
candlestick bases. For each one I sandwiched a 3/4 plywood with two
pieces of 1/4 hardboard just smaller than would fit between the rails
of my machine. I clipped the corners to make it where I could use the
machine to make it round. I mounted a hub in the the middle and
drilled a hole in the opposite side for the tail stock to set in. You
have to make sure the hub and opposite hole for the tail stock are
lined up perfectly.  I mounted it in the mill and turned it round
using the flat bottomed bit. You can then make your disk indexed by
using the index plates come with your mill. Move the index pin on the
mill to the first position and cut a grove in the edge of the disk
with a v-groove bit. Use whatever intervals you need. After you have
cut all the index grooves, unmount the piece and drill a larger hole
in the middle whatever bolt size you have for the pivot point. I also
countersunk the head of the bolt so it would not be in the way. Then
mount it on a piece of plywood that will fit between the rails of your
machine. The next step is to make a index pin to hold the wheel in the
desired position. Make a u-shaped block of wood to hold another block
that is pointed on the end that holds the wheel and the other is a
tight fit in the u-shaped block. I cut the block with a taper so that
it fit snug and would not allow the wheel to turn.
If I can figure out how to insert photos, I will load two that will
make things real clear.

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Making Z-axis upgrade

[Dexter Bland]

I am new to the group here and have spent some time reading other
peoples comments about the service Legacy is not providing it's past
customers. I purchased a 1000ex a few years ago second hand and would
like to upgrade my unit. I just use my unit for my own projects so
upgrade is not critical but would be nice. Several months ago I called
Legacy to see if it was possible to purchase the Z-axis upgrade for
the unit I have and was told they didn't make those anymore. I read on
their web page a few years age the upgrade also required replacing the
tailstock. Just a couple weeks ago I called them to see if I could
purchase some index hubs. I used the wrong words in starting the
conversation saying I needed some parts for my machine instead of
accessaries when talking to the salesman. He forwarded the call to
the owner when he heard the model I had and that I wanted parts. The
owner eventually told me there wasn't enough profit in just selling me
the hubs and wouldn't sell me any since I wasn't the origional
purchaser of the mill. Luckily I have enough hubs to get by for now.
So my question to the group here is, if several wanted a z-axis
upgrade, how much would it be to get a machine shop to make some? If
they were just making one it would probably be more than Legacy
charged when they were still making them, but if we could get several
made at the same time it could make the project affordable. I have
tried (not real hard) to find the manufacter of the aluminum rails and
have not been sucessful yet. How many would be interested in
investigating this possiblility?
Dexter

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Re: Shipping a LOM and/or Heavy accessories

[Dexter Bland]

I purchased a 1000ex (6 ft unit) several years ago from someone in
Seattle, WA area and had it shipped to cental Alabama for about $200.
The previous owner (great guy) crated up the unit and took it to the
dock to avoid the pickup fee. The crate weighed about 250 lbs and was
no problem to slide out of the freight truck into my truck at my
house. I think I used Old Dominion. I just did internet shopping to
find a reasonable priced shipper. some of their web sites will give
you a quote for shipping if you have the dimensions of the crate and
the estimated weight. I think the trick is finding a seller that is
willing to crate up the mill for you.
Dexter

On Apr 24, 7:16 pm, Va Oak mwfos...@earthlink.net wrote:
 Does anyone have experience with a shipping service/freight company
 and their shipping a LOM long distance (half way across the USA)?

 If one were to buy a LOM from someone half way across the USA, who
 would you recommend they use to ship it? (Or conversely, if you were
 to be the seller, what shipping/freight companies have LOM User Group
 members used or would recommend based on shipping other big/heavy
 items?)

 What company did you use?  Did you compare several before selecting
 them?  I think with a number of folks in the group selling  buying
 LOMs and their accessories, we should share info as regards the best
 way to ship them; as well as companies/methods to perhaps avoid.   Any
 input would be useful to all - I'm sure.
 Thank you in advance to all replying members.

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