Re: [MBZ] 220D Head Removal

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 21:50:39 -0700 (PDT) B Dike  wrote:

> So I tried grinding down the rail with the Dremel, but it's extremely
> slow.

You did grind the rail while it was installed in the engine, didn't you?
If so, what did you do with the grinding dust?


> So I might just button it back up with the old head gasket and hope it
> seals.  Is there any reason that might not work? 

That's a bad idea -- the gasket has lost all of its "crush" and getting it
exactly the same place is highly unlikely.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 220D Head Removal

[B Dike]

Jim,
 
I found that the tensioner rail is 2mm wider than the slot.  I don't have the 
shop manual, but the Haynes manual alludes to a 'hook style' rail that requires 
removal.  It mounts on a pin by the crankshaft that requires a special puller 
to remove which I lack.   Don't know why they did that.  Would have been so 
easy to make the rail fit - 30 sec on a grinder.  Removing the head is 
incredibly troublesome. 
 
So I tried grinding down the rail with the Dremel, but it's extremely slow.  It 
turns out that everything was fine inside the cylinders anyway (was looking for 
prechamber damage). So I might just button it back up with the old head gasket 
and hope it seals.  Is there any reason that might not work?
 
Thanks,
 
Bruce



--

Message: 6
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 06:21:32 -0700
From: Jim Cathey 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 220D Head Removal
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <39606fc0-8355-11de-95a3-000502d9a...@windwireless.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

> I am trying to remove the head on the 72 220D (long story why).? 
> Everything is out and loose but the timing chain tensioner rail is 
> interfering with the head.? It looks like the rail is every bit as 
> wide as the slot in the head.? Do I need to remove the tensioner rail 
> (and how is that done), or does it merely need a little 
> 'encouragement' to fit through the slot in the head?

I wasn't present for our recent 220D head un-removal, but the top
end of the main tensioner rail is narrower than the hole, IIRC.
The plastic non-moving guide up at the top needs to come off.
(Threaded pin pulls out with a slide hammer, or crowbar forks
and a regular one if you're like us.)

-- Jim






  
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Re: [MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment

[Hendrik & Fay]

And if you have any questions about that sort of stuff ask here 
http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/index.php , I am a member and 
they are in the most part a nice bunch of folks as you might say.


Hendrik
with light equipment

harry watkins wrote:

Mitch wrote
"So, did you check it out before you hired a shipper to fetch it for 
you?"


H, let me get back to you after Wednesday.  Then I'll know it it 
will be a parts backhoe or not.


I recently traded a golf cart for a parts Toro dump truck (gas) and it 
turns out to be better than my diesel in a lot of areas.  The good 
stuff will go on the diesel and I'll make a running POS out of the gas 
with the worst parts and sell it with full disclosure, you know, I ran 
it through the shop.


Harry






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Re: [MBZ] Mahle Oil Filters

[Gary Hurst]

for the 124

On Sat, Aug 8, 2009 at 9:31 PM, LarryT  wrote:

> Hi Gang -
>Found some Oil Filters made by Mahle with OX38D marked on the side - can
> some one tell if they are for a W123 240D or W124 300D?
>
> Thanks -
> LarryT
> 91 300D
>
> Demand that any Health care reform
> that gets passed, must force members
> of the Legislative, Judicial & Executive
> Branches of government to be included
> as well!
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Re: [MBZ] O/T Concrete Mixer Trivia

[Hendrik & Fay]

Whilst they may wash out on site they usually don't tip out the waste 
due to environmental regulations and as such have a bit of concrete and 
water sloshing in the bowl, if they don't agitate this, the solid stuff 
will settle on the bottom and makes it hard to get out.


Hendrik
who just loves mixing up mud

pm7...@comcast.net wrote:
Nope. Modern Mixers carry plenty of water to do "Wash-out", Ever notice that the drum is ALWAYS turning while in motion? 



  



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Re: [MBZ] Mahle Oil Filters

[Rich Thomas]

Aren't those pistons?

--R

LarryT wrote:
Hi Gang - 
Found some Oil Filters made by Mahle with OX38D marked on the side - can some one tell if they are for a W123 240D or W124 300D?


Thanks - 
LarryT

91 300D

Demand that any Health care reform 
that gets passed, must force members 
of the Legislative, Judicial & Executive 
Branches of government to be included 
as well! 
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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[Rich Thomas]

Oh no, not at all.  I was quite surprised to find 25 yr old sticky 
thingies still holding very tightly, in both mirrors.  I did wonder a 
bit if someone in diddling with them at some point had put that stuff 
in, but it was just too, Benzley, to be anything but factory.  With the 
little springy thingy holding them in, and the sticky stuff, it is a 
belt/suspender job, about what I would expect from the Germans (see  
liederhosen).


--R

WILTON wrote:
Rich, 'didn't mean to sound like I didn't believe your description of 
what you found in the innards of your mirrors; I merely meant to 
describe what I found to indicate that MB evidently makes some changes 
in assemblies from time to time.  Obviously, they're not all exactly 
alike.  'Didn't mean to seem confrontational.


Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Rich Thomas" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


This was on the round part of the mirror frame that goes in the swash 
plate.  The one on the car and the one I got from the junkyard both 
had this stickum.  The mirror is held to the frame with some of the 
same stuff.  It looks like those 3M adhesive pads you can buy, or 
thick double faced tape.


--R

WILTON wrote:
'Found no "stickum" on coupla mirrors I disassembled 3 or 4 years 
ago, 'cept maybe some holding the glass to the backing which is 
attached to the adjusting mechanism, and, of course, I didn't 
separate glass from its backing, just unclipped, etc., the mirror 
with its backing from the mechanism.  BTW, others unable to find a 
replacement for a broken/cracked mirror have had a glass shop cut a 
mirror to the appropriate shape and glued it in place over the 
broken/cracked one.


Wilton
.
- Original Message - From: "Rich Thomas" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


I just did this job last week,  I broke one mirror trying to get it 
off --  the center of them is glued to a little swash plate that 
holds the mirror while it moves around, and it was stuck pretty 
good.  Don't forget first thing to release the wire that goes 
around the swash plate -- it has 2 little end tabs (if they aren't 
broken) that you can see when you push the mirror back (like if it 
hits something).  Take that wire out.  Once you do get it lifted up 
and the adhesive released, the glass mirror has a little tab that 
fits over the end of the adjuster rod, so you have to slide it 
toward the outside of the mirror about a half inch then it will 
come right off.  I would suggest instead of a screwdriver something 
wider, like a wood wedge or a spatula or something, to distribute 
the force over the mirror a bit more while you slowly lift it to 
release the center stickum.  The mirror is actually on a plastic 
frame, but it is flexible.


I took everything apart, including the little inside handle, and 
lubed up all the moving bits (including the ball/sockets on the 
inside handle, and on the swash plate, with some lithium grease, 
after soaking everything with PB and working it well to remove crap 
and corrosion.


Good luck.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:

Surprisingly easy.
Pull the glass out by sticking a flat blade screwdriver under the 
outer edge and gently popping it out of the socket. Then pull the 
glass away from the car and its out.
The glass fits into a channel kind of arrangement, the ball at the 
outside doesn't do anything but give the glass a pivot point.


Follow the channel thing in toward the door and you'll see where 
the arm from the adjuster connects. Spray the heck out of that 
with PB Blaster or the like, then spray in BEHIND it where the 
other connection is (the one I broke). Let it sit in the warm sun 
for an hour or two spraying occasionally. Then gently work the arm 
around, spray more, leave it for awhile, wash, rinse, repeat.


Working that way you shouldn't break the inner arm like I did... 
Take it slow and you'll be fine.


-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 07:20:53 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <002801ca181a$4ae8af60$e0ba0e...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror 
components

on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com 
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]

On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[Curt Raymond]

126 thing? I found no stickum on either mirror on my 240D.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 08 Aug 2009 19:19:16 -0400
From: Rich Thomas 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <4a7e07f4.4020...@constructivity.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

This was on the round part of the mirror frame that goes in the swash 
plate.  The one on the car and the one I got from the junkyard both had 
this stickum.  The mirror is held to the frame with some of the same 
stuff.  It looks like those 3M adhesive pads you can buy, or thick 
double faced tape.

--R


  
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Re: [MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment

[Curt Raymond]

That seems like a good price Harry. I keep passing on small tractors that I'd 
like to have at the farm because I figure it'll be expensive to ship. We'd be 
looking at around 450 miles. If I could get it done for $600 I'd be pleased...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 17:47:12 -0500
From: "harry watkins" 
Subject: [MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <011c01ca187a$2d0cc9d0$4d514...@d4w8p421>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I bought a John Deere backhoe off craigslists from a location about 250 away.

I
went to uship.com, input what, where, when etc and waited for haulers
to bid for the job.  I accepted a $365 bid, fully insured, pickup and
trailer, will deliver Wednesday.

Real simple and I thought it was a fair price.  Of course it ain't here yet. :>)

Just thought I would share.

Harry


  
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[Curt Raymond]

Wilton, have you ever considering being a novelist, you write some of the most 
descriptive passages. That one gave me the willies, the creeps and the heebie 
jeebies...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 12:54:56 -0400
From: "WILTON" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: <46d53a0e360745448500ca139253a...@wiltonpc>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=response

'May be much worse and different.  I have much trouble walking barefooted; 
'possible same problem in soft sole moccasins.  'Big danger is catching a 
toe on the floor/ground and tripping or turning toe under and stepping on it 
with full weight like I did in my bedroom 'bout four years ago.  I was just 
out of the shower and nude, crossing my bedroom to my chest of drawers to 
fetch underwear, caught left big toe on carpet, turned it under and stepped 
upon it with my full weight on it; tore toenail off from the top - not the 
outer edge - ripped it off from the meat/flesh at the top.  I was here by 
myself, bleeding and nude.  'Got a clean hanky out of the chest of drawers 
and tied it around the toe to slow the bleeding.  'Called my former 
daughter-in-law (podiatrist) to come doctor the toe, then realized all the 
entry doors to the house were locked and couldn't get to one to let her in. 
'Called son, who has a key, to let her in; by the time they got here, I had 
dressed partially and was waiting on the bed with the left foot sticking out 
the side "ready" for some repair.  I was lucky to catch both of them at home 
and immediately available.

Conclusion:  most dangerous time/place for me is with bare feet in the 
bedroom.  I have to walk very slowly and deliberately and concentrate on 
each step to clear the floor/ground when that "rear" foot comes forward, 
especially when barefooted.

Wilton


  
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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[Bill R]

I did replace that fuse, but it made no difference.  I'm going to pull the
cluster Monday and see what happens.
Bill

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Barry Stark
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:04 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Bill -
As Marshall used to say, it is best just to replace them. If you get
continuity it is a good sign and probably means it is ok but you can get
continuity across a hair fine wire but it won't carry any current. If you
must keep the fuse take it out and make sure the conductor isn't cracked and
clean off  some of the oxidation. The best test is to measure voltage at the
connector. FWIW, on my '81 SL I did once have what another lister mentioned,
that being a crack in the printed circuit board on the back of the cluster.
It was very hard to see. You had to probe each circuit with an ohmmeter and
look for the large ohmic reading. It was easily repaired by soldering a
small length of wire across the crack to bridge it.

Barry

> 
> Thank you Barry. I gave them a quick look earlier, but I will pay
> special
> attention to 12.  If I show continuity from the top to the bottom of
> the
> fuse holder I would assume the fuse is good? They all did that about
> two
> weeks ago, but that was prior to my messing with it.
> BillR



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Re: [MBZ] polishing

[E M]

You can be sure the rain will hold off until the last tire is dressed!

Good luck at the show, bring home a trophy.

Ed
300E

2009/8/8 

> > ..If it's not a clear coat and is oxidized, use Machine Polish to clean
> > up finish..
> >
> You seem to be suggesting here that clear coats don't oxidize and therefore
> don't need polishing. Not only do they deteriorate (it's just paint, after
> all) but they get scuffs and swirls that can only be removed by polishing.
> Using a random-orbital (like my Porter-Cable) with a carefully chosen light
> cutting agent will bring the clear-coat back to a new appearance.
>
> I'll be putting the finishing touches on my C300 tonight   for tomorrow's
> Seattle Section MBCA Car Show. I've already clayed it followed by polishing
> with a Menzerna polish for nano-particle clears. Then a Speed Shine cleanup
> (my favorite detailing spray   from Griot's). After that I applied Menzerna
> paint sealant followed by Griot's liquid Concours wax. I do this about
> every
> six months with Speed Shine and spray wax in between when I think it needs
> it.
>
> The interior and windows inside were thoroughly cleaned yesterday along
> with the trunk and I cleaned the engine compartment earlier in the week.
> After
> tonight's wash and dry, the tires will be dressed and it will be ready.
>
> Rain is in the forecast.
>
> RLE
>
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Re: [MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment

[harry watkins]

Mitch wrote
"So, did you check it out before you hired a shipper to fetch it for you?"

H, let me get back to you after Wednesday.  Then I'll know it it will be 
a parts backhoe or not.


I recently traded a golf cart for a parts Toro dump truck (gas) and it turns 
out to be better than my diesel in a lot of areas.  The good stuff will go 
on the diesel and I'll make a running POS out of the gas with the worst 
parts and sell it with full disclosure, you know, I ran it through the shop.


Harry


harry watkins wrote:
I bought a John Deere backhoe off craigslists from a location about 250 
away.


So, did you check it out before you hired a shipper to fetch it for you?



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Re: [MBZ] polishing

[RELNGSON]

> ..If it's not a clear coat and is oxidized, use Machine Polish to clean 
> up finish..
> 
You seem to be suggesting here that clear coats don't oxidize and therefore 
don't need polishing. Not only do they deteriorate (it's just paint, after 
all) but they get scuffs and swirls that can only be removed by polishing. 
Using a random-orbital (like my Porter-Cable) with a carefully chosen light 
cutting agent will bring the clear-coat back to a new appearance.

I'll be putting the finishing touches on my C300 tonight   for tomorrow's 
Seattle Section MBCA Car Show. I've already clayed it followed by polishing 
with a Menzerna polish for nano-particle clears. Then a Speed Shine cleanup 
(my favorite detailing spray   from Griot's). After that I applied Menzerna 
paint sealant followed by Griot's liquid Concours wax. I do this about every 
six months with Speed Shine and spray wax in between when I think it needs 
it.

The interior and windows inside were thoroughly cleaned yesterday along 
with the trunk and I cleaned the engine compartment earlier in the week. After 
tonight's wash and dry, the tires will be dressed and it will be ready.

Rain is in the forecast.

RLE

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Re: [MBZ] Best wax?

[archer]

Hi Larry,
With you guys all agreeing on one wax it has to be the best.
Thanks,
Gerry

From: "LarryT" l02tur...@comcast.net

   Ditto the 3M Show Car Wax - after I painted my 911, I used the 3M wax
and was blown away by it.  It seems to put a hard shell on the car -- and 
it

lasts a very long time.   Very thin coats work best but if the detailer is
doing it I'm sure he will know what works.
Also, it can be put on with hand or machine - but IMO using a machine is
much better.
Good luck -
LarryT
91 300D

Demand that any Health care reform
that gets passed, must force members
of the Legislative, Judicial & Executive
Branches of government to be included
as well!

- Original Message - 
From: "LWB250" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best wax?



3M Show Car Wax.  Don't waste your money on all the "carnuba claims."

This is from someone known to many as the "Mercedes Martha Stewart," so 
take

the advice seriously.


Dan

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, archer  wrote:


From: archer 
Subject: [MBZ] Best wax?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 6:04 PM
My '83 240D needs waxing. I
know a very good detailer and I want to use Griotts or
something similar in order to get the longest lasting job.
It has been an "inside car" all its life and I don't
believe there is any oxidation since recent body work (due
to a parking lot scrape) can't be found.
I get Griotts catalog but there are so many options I have
no idea which wax would be the longest lasting.
Thanks,
Gerry

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[MBZ] Mahle Oil Filters

[LarryT]

Hi Gang - 
Found some Oil Filters made by Mahle with OX38D marked on the side - can 
some one tell if they are for a W123 240D or W124 300D?

Thanks - 
LarryT
91 300D

Demand that any Health care reform 
that gets passed, must force members 
of the Legislative, Judicial & Executive 
Branches of government to be included 
as well! 
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Re: [MBZ] Best wax?

[LarryT]

   Ditto the 3M Show Car Wax - after I painted my 911, I used the 3M wax 
and was blown away by it.  It seems to put a hard shell on the car -- and it 
lasts a very long time.   Very thin coats work best but if the detailer is 
doing it I'm sure he will know what works.


Also, it can be put on with hand or machine - but IMO using a machine is 
much better.


Good luck -

LarryT
91 300D

Demand that any Health care reform
that gets passed, must force members
of the Legislative, Judicial & Executive
Branches of government to be included
as well!

- Original Message - 
From: "LWB250" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best wax?



3M Show Car Wax.  Don't waste your money on all the "carnuba claims."

This is from someone known to many as the "Mercedes Martha Stewart," so take 
the advice seriously.



Dan

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, archer  wrote:


From: archer 
Subject: [MBZ] Best wax?
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 6:04 PM
My '83 240D needs waxing. I
know a very good detailer and I want to use Griotts or
something similar in order to get the longest lasting job.
It has been an "inside car" all its life and I don't
believe there is any oxidation since recent body work (due
to a parking lot scrape) can't be found.
I get Griotts catalog but there are so many options I have
no idea which wax would be the longest lasting.
Thanks,
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[WILTON]

Rich, 'didn't mean to sound like I didn't believe your description of what 
you found in the innards of your mirrors; I merely meant to describe what I 
found to indicate that MB evidently makes some changes in assemblies from 
time to time.  Obviously, they're not all exactly alike.  'Didn't mean to 
seem confrontational.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


This was on the round part of the mirror frame that goes in the swash 
plate.  The one on the car and the one I got from the junkyard both had 
this stickum.  The mirror is held to the frame with some of the same 
stuff.  It looks like those 3M adhesive pads you can buy, or thick double 
faced tape.


--R

WILTON wrote:
'Found no "stickum" on coupla mirrors I disassembled 3 or 4 years ago, 
'cept maybe some holding the glass to the backing which is attached to 
the adjusting mechanism, and, of course, I didn't separate glass from its 
backing, just unclipped, etc., the mirror with its backing from the 
mechanism.  BTW, others unable to find a replacement for a broken/cracked 
mirror have had a glass shop cut a mirror to the appropriate shape and 
glued it in place over the broken/cracked one.


Wilton
.
- Original Message - From: "Rich Thomas" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


I just did this job last week,  I broke one mirror trying to get it 
off --  the center of them is glued to a little swash plate that holds 
the mirror while it moves around, and it was stuck pretty good.  Don't 
forget first thing to release the wire that goes around the swash 
plate -- it has 2 little end tabs (if they aren't broken) that you can 
see when you push the mirror back (like if it hits something).  Take 
that wire out.  Once you do get it lifted up and the adhesive released, 
the glass mirror has a little tab that fits over the end of the adjuster 
rod, so you have to slide it toward the outside of the mirror about a 
half inch then it will come right off.  I would suggest instead of a 
screwdriver something wider, like a wood wedge or a spatula or 
something, to distribute the force over the mirror a bit more while you 
slowly lift it to release the center stickum.  The mirror is actually on 
a plastic frame, but it is flexible.


I took everything apart, including the little inside handle, and lubed 
up all the moving bits (including the ball/sockets on the inside handle, 
and on the swash plate, with some lithium grease, after soaking 
everything with PB and working it well to remove crap and corrosion.


Good luck.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:

Surprisingly easy.
Pull the glass out by sticking a flat blade screwdriver under the outer 
edge and gently popping it out of the socket. Then pull the glass away 
from the car and its out.
The glass fits into a channel kind of arrangement, the ball at the 
outside doesn't do anything but give the glass a pivot point.


Follow the channel thing in toward the door and you'll see where the 
arm from the adjuster connects. Spray the heck out of that with PB 
Blaster or the like, then spray in BEHIND it where the other connection 
is (the one I broke). Let it sit in the warm sun for an hour or two 
spraying occasionally. Then gently work the arm around, spray more, 
leave it for awhile, wash, rinse, repeat.


Working that way you shouldn't break the inner arm like I did... Take 
it slow and you'll be fine.


-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 07:20:53 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <002801ca181a$4ae8af60$e0ba0e...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror 
components

on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com 
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]

On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton


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For new 

Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[Barry Stark]

Bill -
As Marshall used to say, it is best just to replace them. If you get
continuity it is a good sign and probably means it is ok but you can get
continuity across a hair fine wire but it won't carry any current. If you
must keep the fuse take it out and make sure the conductor isn't cracked and
clean off  some of the oxidation. The best test is to measure voltage at the
connector. FWIW, on my '81 SL I did once have what another lister mentioned,
that being a crack in the printed circuit board on the back of the cluster.
It was very hard to see. You had to probe each circuit with an ohmmeter and
look for the large ohmic reading. It was easily repaired by soldering a
small length of wire across the crack to bridge it.

Barry

> 
> Thank you Barry. I gave them a quick look earlier, but I will pay
> special
> attention to 12.  If I show continuity from the top to the bottom of
> the
> fuse holder I would assume the fuse is good? They all did that about
> two
> weeks ago, but that was prior to my messing with it.
> BillR



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Re: [MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment

[WILTON]

So it drove THROUGH the shop just fine.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 7:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment



harry watkins wrote:
I bought a John Deere backhoe off craigslists from a location about 250 
away.


So, did you check it out before you hired a shipper to fetch it for you?
My dad once bought a tractor/loader from a dealer who had "run it through 
the shop" He told me he didn't need to check it out because the dealer had 
already done that for him. (which caused me to ask "were the doors open on 
both ends of the building when they ran it through the shop?").


When they delivered it, we found out that it couldn't lift anything. 
Buried deep in the bowels of the transmission was a worn out hydraulic 
pump. The bucket went up and down just fine, as long as it was empty.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment

[Mitch Haley]

harry watkins wrote:

I bought a John Deere backhoe off craigslists from a location about 250 away.


So, did you check it out before you hired a shipper to fetch it for you?
My dad once bought a tractor/loader from a dealer who had "run it through the 
shop" He told me he didn't need to check it out because the dealer had already 
done that for him. (which caused me to ask "were the doors open on both ends of 
the building when they ran it through the shop?").


When they delivered it, we found out that it couldn't lift anything. Buried deep 
in the bowels of the transmission was a worn out hydraulic pump. The bucket went 
up and down just fine, as long as it was empty.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[Rich Thomas]

This was on the round part of the mirror frame that goes in the swash 
plate.  The one on the car and the one I got from the junkyard both had 
this stickum.  The mirror is held to the frame with some of the same 
stuff.  It looks like those 3M adhesive pads you can buy, or thick 
double faced tape.


--R

WILTON wrote:
'Found no "stickum" on coupla mirrors I disassembled 3 or 4 years ago, 
'cept maybe some holding the glass to the backing which is attached to 
the adjusting mechanism, and, of course, I didn't separate glass from 
its backing, just unclipped, etc., the mirror with its backing from 
the mechanism.  BTW, others unable to find a replacement for a 
broken/cracked mirror have had a glass shop cut a mirror to the 
appropriate shape and glued it in place over the broken/cracked one.


Wilton
.
- Original Message - From: "Rich Thomas" 


To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


I just did this job last week,  I broke one mirror trying to get it 
off --  the center of them is glued to a little swash plate that 
holds the mirror while it moves around, and it was stuck pretty 
good.  Don't forget first thing to release the wire that goes around 
the swash plate -- it has 2 little end tabs (if they aren't broken) 
that you can see when you push the mirror back (like if it hits 
something).  Take that wire out.  Once you do get it lifted up and 
the adhesive released, the glass mirror has a little tab that fits 
over the end of the adjuster rod, so you have to slide it toward the 
outside of the mirror about a half inch then it will come right off.  
I would suggest instead of a screwdriver something wider, like a wood 
wedge or a spatula or something, to distribute the force over the 
mirror a bit more while you slowly lift it to release the center 
stickum.  The mirror is actually on a plastic frame, but it is flexible.


I took everything apart, including the little inside handle, and 
lubed up all the moving bits (including the ball/sockets on the 
inside handle, and on the swash plate, with some lithium grease, 
after soaking everything with PB and working it well to remove crap 
and corrosion.


Good luck.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:

Surprisingly easy.
Pull the glass out by sticking a flat blade screwdriver under the 
outer edge and gently popping it out of the socket. Then pull the 
glass away from the car and its out.
The glass fits into a channel kind of arrangement, the ball at the 
outside doesn't do anything but give the glass a pivot point.


Follow the channel thing in toward the door and you'll see where the 
arm from the adjuster connects. Spray the heck out of that with PB 
Blaster or the like, then spray in BEHIND it where the other 
connection is (the one I broke). Let it sit in the warm sun for an 
hour or two spraying occasionally. Then gently work the arm around, 
spray more, leave it for awhile, wash, rinse, repeat.


Working that way you shouldn't break the inner arm like I did... 
Take it slow and you'll be fine.


-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 07:20:53 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <002801ca181a$4ae8af60$e0ba0e...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror 
components

on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com 
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]

On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[WILTON]

'Found no "stickum" on coupla mirrors I disassembled 3 or 4 years ago, 'cept 
maybe some holding the glass to the backing which is attached to the 
adjusting mechanism, and, of course, I didn't separate glass from its 
backing, just unclipped, etc., the mirror with its backing from the 
mechanism.  BTW, others unable to find a replacement for a broken/cracked 
mirror have had a glass shop cut a mirror to the appropriate shape and glued 
it in place over the broken/cracked one.


Wilton
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


I just did this job last week,  I broke one mirror trying to get it off --  
the center of them is glued to a little swash plate that holds the mirror 
while it moves around, and it was stuck pretty good.  Don't forget first 
thing to release the wire that goes around the swash plate -- it has 2 
little end tabs (if they aren't broken) that you can see when you push the 
mirror back (like if it hits something).  Take that wire out.  Once you do 
get it lifted up and the adhesive released, the glass mirror has a little 
tab that fits over the end of the adjuster rod, so you have to slide it 
toward the outside of the mirror about a half inch then it will come right 
off.  I would suggest instead of a screwdriver something wider, like a wood 
wedge or a spatula or something, to distribute the force over the mirror a 
bit more while you slowly lift it to release the center stickum.  The 
mirror is actually on a plastic frame, but it is flexible.


I took everything apart, including the little inside handle, and lubed up 
all the moving bits (including the ball/sockets on the inside handle, and 
on the swash plate, with some lithium grease, after soaking everything 
with PB and working it well to remove crap and corrosion.


Good luck.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:

Surprisingly easy.
Pull the glass out by sticking a flat blade screwdriver under the outer 
edge and gently popping it out of the socket. Then pull the glass away 
from the car and its out.
The glass fits into a channel kind of arrangement, the ball at the 
outside doesn't do anything but give the glass a pivot point.


Follow the channel thing in toward the door and you'll see where the arm 
from the adjuster connects. Spray the heck out of that with PB Blaster or 
the like, then spray in BEHIND it where the other connection is (the one 
I broke). Let it sit in the warm sun for an hour or two spraying 
occasionally. Then gently work the arm around, spray more, leave it for 
awhile, wash, rinse, repeat.


Working that way you shouldn't break the inner arm like I did... Take it 
slow and you'll be fine.


-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 07:20:53 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <002801ca181a$4ae8af60$e0ba0e...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror 
components

on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com 
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]

On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton


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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[Rich Thomas]

I just did this job last week,  I broke one mirror trying to get it off 
-- the center of them is glued to a little swash plate that holds the 
mirror while it moves around, and it was stuck pretty good.  Don't 
forget first thing to release the wire that goes around the swash plate 
-- it has 2 little end tabs (if they aren't broken) that you can see 
when you push the mirror back (like if it hits something).  Take that 
wire out.  Once you do get it lifted up and the adhesive released, the 
glass mirror has a little tab that fits over the end of the adjuster 
rod, so you have to slide it toward the outside of the mirror about a 
half inch then it will come right off.  I would suggest instead of a 
screwdriver something wider, like a wood wedge or a spatula or 
something, to distribute the force over the mirror a bit more while you 
slowly lift it to release the center stickum.  The mirror is actually on 
a plastic frame, but it is flexible.


I took everything apart, including the little inside handle, and lubed 
up all the moving bits (including the ball/sockets on the inside handle, 
and on the swash plate, with some lithium grease, after soaking 
everything with PB and working it well to remove crap and corrosion.


Good luck.

--R

Curt Raymond wrote:

Surprisingly easy.
Pull the glass out by sticking a flat blade screwdriver under the outer edge 
and gently popping it out of the socket. Then pull the glass away from the car 
and its out.
The glass fits into a channel kind of arrangement, the ball at the outside 
doesn't do anything but give the glass a pivot point.

Follow the channel thing in toward the door and you'll see where the arm from 
the adjuster connects. Spray the heck out of that with PB Blaster or the like, 
then spray in BEHIND it where the other connection is (the one I broke). Let it 
sit in the warm sun for an hour or two spraying occasionally. Then gently work 
the arm around, spray more, leave it for awhile, wash, rinse, repeat.

Working that way you shouldn't break the inner arm like I did... Take it slow 
and you'll be fine.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 07:20:53 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <002801ca181a$4ae8af60$e0ba0e...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror components
on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight 


Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton


  
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[MBZ] FYI, shipping equipment

[harry watkins]

I bought a John Deere backhoe off craigslists from a location about 250 away.

I went to uship.com, input what, where, when etc and waited for haulers to bid 
for the job.  I accepted a $365 bid, fully insured, pickup and trailer, will 
deliver Wednesday.

Real simple and I thought it was a fair price.  Of course it ain't here yet. :>)

Just thought I would share.

Harry
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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting the W123 injection pump dampener screw

[harry watkins]

From Mac, Aug, 2008


The rack damper bolt is only part of the equation with respect to getting
the idle 'right', or as right as it can be.

First, the adjustment has to be done with the engine as hot as you can get
it, so if you are able to work in a place near a stretch of highway all the
better (mine have always run roughest right after a highway drive). This
means you have about 10 minutes in which to work, before the engine cools
off too much at idle.

Second, as these engines age (by which I mean at higher mileages) they seem
to each have their own 'sweet spot'. Some run very well at low idle RPMs.
Three out of the four I have had did not. You have to adjust the idle speed
as well as the rack damper - you may not be able to get a smooth idle at
your current idle speed point.

The third point is the injectors, but you have seen to that (I can't find
your original post now, but I am assuming you had them professionally
cleaned).

Good luck

Mac


- Original Message - 
From: "andrew strasfogel" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 1:52 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Adjusting the W123 injection pump dampener screw



The use to be a link to an explanation on how to adjust the injection pump
dampener on a W123 turbodiesel to cure 'the shakes" at idle.  Does anyone
have a live link to this article?
Andrew
W123 300cd and 300 td (2)
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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting the W123 injection pump dampener screw

[harry watkins]

From Barry, 9/11/2006


John -
Screw it in just until you feel it hit the rack linkage inside the IP.
Understand that if it is screwed in too far the engine may not start. Go
ahead and start the engine and screw the damper bolt in very slowly until
the engine just settles down. do not turn it in any more than is necessary,
in this case a little more is NOT better. Play with it a bit if you want to
get the best setting then tighten the jam nut to lock it in place. Make sure
the adjustment doesn't move as you tighten the nut. By the way John, AFAIK
the rack damper only comes into play at idle speed. If you are getting
abnormal vibration other than that you may want to inspect your engine
mounts. When I changed mine the difference was truly amazing. If memory
serves me I seem to remember an O-ring sealing the threads behind the jam
nut. If that is so, be sure to lube it a bit so it doesn't get pinched.

Barry

- Original Message - 
From: "andrew strasfogel" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 1:52 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Adjusting the W123 injection pump dampener screw



The use to be a link to an explanation on how to adjust the injection pump
dampener on a W123 turbodiesel to cure 'the shakes" at idle.  Does anyone
have a live link to this article?
Andrew
W123 300cd and 300 td (2)
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Re: [MBZ] anybody need a manny tranny 300E?

[WILTON]

What?  No leather?  ;<)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" 
To: "Banned List" ; "mercedes Mailing List" 
; 

Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:03 PM
Subject: [MBZ] anybody need a manny tranny 300E?



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-Mercedes-1986-300E-5-Speed-Manual-Ultra-Rare-Runs-great_W0QQitemZ200371539723QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2ea7130f0b&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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[MBZ] anybody need a manny tranny 300E?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-Mercedes-1986-300E-5-Speed-Manual-Ultra-Rare-Runs-great_W0QQitemZ200371539723QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item2ea7130f0b&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E,
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting the W123 injection pump dampener screw

[Mountain Man]

andrew wrote:
> ...W123 turbodiesel to cure 'the shakes" at idle.

Ludmila Grobtken?
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[Bill R]

Thank you Barry. I gave them a quick look earlier, but I will pay special
attention to 12.  If I show continuity from the top to the bottom of the
fuse holder I would assume the fuse is good? They all did that about two
weeks ago, but that was prior to my messing with it.
BillR

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Barry Stark
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 2:58 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Bill -

After a quick review of the ECM, The power for most of the cluster, but not
the clock, comes from fuse F12. Have you replaced that fuse? If that doesn't
help remove the cluster and probe socket #7 of the round connector for 12V.
The key needs to be in the run or start position for F12 to get power. The
ground for the cluster is at G102 which is one of the many brown wires tied
to the instrument panel(lower center of the cluster cutout) you see when you
remove the cluster. You might test the cluster ground. For the portion of
the cluster fed by F12 it should be at socket 3 of the same round connector.
It should read very low ohms to the G102 or any good ground point. Not sure
if someone has already suggested this as I have been "behind the power
curve" for the last little while on my E-mails.

Barry

>Now everything [but the clock] that needs an electric feed is dead.  



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[archer]

Hi Wilton,
You wrote:

'May be much worse and different.


G:  It does sound much worse.

 I have much trouble walking barefooted;

'possible same problem in soft sole moccasins.  'Big danger is catching a
toe on the floor/ground and tripping or turning toe under and stepping on 
it
with full weight like I did in my bedroom 'bout four years ago.  I was 
just

out of the shower and nude, crossing my bedroom to my chest of drawers to
fetch underwear, caught left big toe on carpet, turned it under and 
stepped

upon it with my full weight on it; tore toenail off from the top - not the
outer edge - ripped it off from the meat/flesh at the top.  I was here by
myself, bleeding and nude.  'Got a clean hanky out of the chest of drawers
and tied it around the toe to slow the bleeding.  'Called my former
daughter-in-law (podiatrist) to come doctor the toe, then realized all the
entry doors to the house were locked and couldn't get to one to let her 
in.
'Called son, who has a key, to let her in; by the time they got here, I 
had
dressed partially and was waiting on the bed with the left foot sticking 
out
the side "ready" for some repair.  I was lucky to catch both of them at 
home

and immediately available.

Conclusion:  most dangerous time/place for me is with bare feet in the
bedroom.  I have to walk very slowly and deliberately and concentrate on
each step to clear the floor/ground when that "rear" foot comes forward,
especially when barefooted.
Wilton

..
Sounds like you're doing about as well as you can.  I had a problem with 
tripping on rugs while wearing velcro strap shoes when the physiotherapist 
was still doing treatments.  He suggested I get the ends of the thick shoe 
soles ground off and tapered from the ball to the end of the shoe.  Sent me 
to a shoe shop that knew what he wanted done but the shoe shop had gone out 
of business or moved.  When the treatments were over I started using house 
slippers which had soft soles.  They worked well and gave me the idea for 
the moccasins.

Good luck,
Gerry 



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[WILTON]

'Thought it may be.  ;<))

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita



TMI - "Too much information"

On Sat, Aug 8, 2009 at 12:57 PM, WILTON  wrote:


?

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Rich Thomas" <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita



TMI


--R

WILTON wrote:


'May be much worse and different.  I have much trouble walking
barefooted; 'possible same problem in soft sole moccasins.  'Big danger 
is
catching a toe on the floor/ground and tripping or turning toe under 
and
stepping on it with full weight like I did in my bedroom 'bout four 
years
ago.  I was just out of the shower and nude, crossing my bedroom to my 
chest

of drawers to fetch underwear, caught left big toe on carpet, turned it
under and stepped upon it with my full weight on it; tore toenail off 
from
the top - not the outer edge - ripped it off from the meat/flesh at the 
top.
 I was here by myself, bleeding and nude.  'Got a clean hanky out of 
the
chest of drawers and tied it around the toe to slow the bleeding. 
'Called
my former daughter-in-law (podiatrist) to come doctor the toe, then 
realized
all the entry doors to the house were locked and couldn't get to one to 
let

her in. 'Called son, who has a key, to let her in; by the time they got
here, I had dressed partially and was waiting on the bed with the left 
foot
sticking out the side "ready" for some repair.  I was lucky to catch 
both of

them at home and immediately available.

Conclusion:  most dangerous time/place for me is with bare feet in the
bedroom.  I have to walk very slowly and deliberately and concentrate 
on
each step to clear the floor/ground when that "rear" foot comes 
forward,

especially when barefooted.

Wilton

-



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--
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[Barry Stark]

Bill -

After a quick review of the ECM, The power for most of the cluster, but not
the clock, comes from fuse F12. Have you replaced that fuse? If that doesn't
help remove the cluster and probe socket #7 of the round connector for 12V.
The key needs to be in the run or start position for F12 to get power. The
ground for the cluster is at G102 which is one of the many brown wires tied
to the instrument panel(lower center of the cluster cutout) you see when you
remove the cluster. You might test the cluster ground. For the portion of
the cluster fed by F12 it should be at socket 3 of the same round connector.
It should read very low ohms to the G102 or any good ground point. Not sure
if someone has already suggested this as I have been "behind the power
curve" for the last little while on my E-mails.

Barry

>Now everything [but the clock] that needs an electric feed is dead.  



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[Craig McCluskey]

On Sat, 8 Aug 2009 13:30:58 -0500 OK Don  wrote:

> TMI - "Too much information"

Maybe, but don't let that stop you from sharing in the future, Wilton.

I'm sorry you're having these difficuties.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Come on Andrew, let's get that garage built

[andrew strasfogel]

All these selfless souls make me want to tear up...

On Fri, Aug 7, 2009 at 4:04 PM, R A Bennell  wrote:

> Come, come, Andrew, we will never consider you to be irrelevant. The whole
> issue is the size of the wire that you
> will run to your new garage to ensure you have lots of electrical power
> available.
>
> Randy
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
> Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 1:43 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Come on Andrew, let's get that garage built
>
>
> Somebody please change the subject line or start a new thread, as i am
> clearly irrelevant to the ongoing discussion.
>
> On Thu, Aug 6, 2009 at 11:18 PM, Craig McCluskey  >wrote:
>
> > On Thu, 6 Aug 2009 15:03:06 -0500 "R A Bennell"  wrote:
> >
> > > I would guess the triplex should be similar size.
> > >
> > > Randy
> > >
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
> > > [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Mitch Haley
> > > Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 10:15 AM
> > > To: Mercedes Discussion List
> > > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Come on Andrew, let's get that garage built
> > >
> > >
> > > R A Bennell wrote:
> > > > And do remember, that the bigger the cable the better.
> > >
> > > I wonder how big the triplex that runs from the transformer to my house
> > > is? My line from the meter to the breaker box is 3/0 (I think that's
> > > what code  required), but I don't think the triplex service line
> feeding
> > > the meter is that  big.
> >
> > The triplex is free air cooled, however, while the line from the meter to
> > the breaker box is not. That does count for something.
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> > ___
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[MBZ] Adjusting the W123 injection pump dampener screw

[andrew strasfogel]

The use to be a link to an explanation on how to adjust the injection pump
dampener on a W123 turbodiesel to cure 'the shakes" at idle.  Does anyone
have a live link to this article?
Andrew
W123 300cd and 300 td (2)
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[OK Don]

TMI - "Too much information"

On Sat, Aug 8, 2009 at 12:57 PM, WILTON  wrote:

> ?
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message - From: "Rich Thomas" <
> richthomas79td...@constructivity.net>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 1:21 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita
>
>
>
> TMI
>>
>> --R
>>
>> WILTON wrote:
>>
>>> 'May be much worse and different.  I have much trouble walking
>>> barefooted; 'possible same problem in soft sole moccasins.  'Big danger is
>>> catching a toe on the floor/ground and tripping or turning toe under and
>>> stepping on it with full weight like I did in my bedroom 'bout four years
>>> ago.  I was just out of the shower and nude, crossing my bedroom to my chest
>>> of drawers to fetch underwear, caught left big toe on carpet, turned it
>>> under and stepped upon it with my full weight on it; tore toenail off from
>>> the top - not the outer edge - ripped it off from the meat/flesh at the top.
>>>  I was here by myself, bleeding and nude.  'Got a clean hanky out of the
>>> chest of drawers and tied it around the toe to slow the bleeding.  'Called
>>> my former daughter-in-law (podiatrist) to come doctor the toe, then realized
>>> all the entry doors to the house were locked and couldn't get to one to let
>>> her in. 'Called son, who has a key, to let her in; by the time they got
>>> here, I had dressed partially and was waiting on the bed with the left foot
>>> sticking out the side "ready" for some repair.  I was lucky to catch both of
>>> them at home and immediately available.
>>>
>>> Conclusion:  most dangerous time/place for me is with bare feet in the
>>> bedroom.  I have to walk very slowly and deliberately and concentrate on
>>> each step to clear the floor/ground when that "rear" foot comes forward,
>>> especially when barefooted.
>>>
>>> Wilton
>>>
>>> -
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
> ___
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>
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-- 
OK Don
Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[WILTON]

?

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 1:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita



TMI

--R

WILTON wrote:
'May be much worse and different.  I have much trouble walking 
barefooted; 'possible same problem in soft sole moccasins.  'Big 
danger is catching a toe on the floor/ground and tripping or turning 
toe under and stepping on it with full weight like I did in my bedroom 
'bout four years ago.  I was just out of the shower and nude, crossing 
my bedroom to my chest of drawers to fetch underwear, caught left big 
toe on carpet, turned it under and stepped upon it with my full weight 
on it; tore toenail off from the top - not the outer edge - ripped it 
off from the meat/flesh at the top.  I was here by myself, bleeding 
and nude.  'Got a clean hanky out of the chest of drawers and tied it 
around the toe to slow the bleeding.  'Called my former 
daughter-in-law (podiatrist) to come doctor the toe, then realized all 
the entry doors to the house were locked and couldn't get to one to 
let her in. 'Called son, who has a key, to let her in; by the time 
they got here, I had dressed partially and was waiting on the bed with 
the left foot sticking out the side "ready" for some repair.  I was 
lucky to catch both of them at home and immediately available.


Conclusion:  most dangerous time/place for me is with bare feet in the 
bedroom.  I have to walk very slowly and deliberately and concentrate 
on each step to clear the floor/ground when that "rear" foot comes 
forward, especially when barefooted.


Wilton

-


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[Rich Thomas]

TMI

--R

WILTON wrote:
'May be much worse and different.  I have much trouble walking 
barefooted; 'possible same problem in soft sole moccasins.  'Big 
danger is catching a toe on the floor/ground and tripping or turning 
toe under and stepping on it with full weight like I did in my bedroom 
'bout four years ago.  I was just out of the shower and nude, crossing 
my bedroom to my chest of drawers to fetch underwear, caught left big 
toe on carpet, turned it under and stepped upon it with my full weight 
on it; tore toenail off from the top - not the outer edge - ripped it 
off from the meat/flesh at the top.  I was here by myself, bleeding 
and nude.  'Got a clean hanky out of the chest of drawers and tied it 
around the toe to slow the bleeding.  'Called my former 
daughter-in-law (podiatrist) to come doctor the toe, then realized all 
the entry doors to the house were locked and couldn't get to one to 
let her in. 'Called son, who has a key, to let her in; by the time 
they got here, I had dressed partially and was waiting on the bed with 
the left foot sticking out the side "ready" for some repair.  I was 
lucky to catch both of them at home and immediately available.


Conclusion:  most dangerous time/place for me is with bare feet in the 
bedroom.  I have to walk very slowly and deliberately and concentrate 
on each step to clear the floor/ground when that "rear" foot comes 
forward, especially when barefooted.


Wilton

-


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[WILTON]

'May be much worse and different.  I have much trouble walking barefooted; 
'possible same problem in soft sole moccasins.  'Big danger is catching a 
toe on the floor/ground and tripping or turning toe under and stepping on it 
with full weight like I did in my bedroom 'bout four years ago.  I was just 
out of the shower and nude, crossing my bedroom to my chest of drawers to 
fetch underwear, caught left big toe on carpet, turned it under and stepped 
upon it with my full weight on it; tore toenail off from the top - not the 
outer edge - ripped it off from the meat/flesh at the top.  I was here by 
myself, bleeding and nude.  'Got a clean hanky out of the chest of drawers 
and tied it around the toe to slow the bleeding.  'Called my former 
daughter-in-law (podiatrist) to come doctor the toe, then realized all the 
entry doors to the house were locked and couldn't get to one to let her in. 
'Called son, who has a key, to let her in; by the time they got here, I had 
dressed partially and was waiting on the bed with the left foot sticking out 
the side "ready" for some repair.  I was lucky to catch both of them at home 
and immediately available.


Conclusion:  most dangerous time/place for me is with bare feet in the 
bedroom.  I have to walk very slowly and deliberately and concentrate on 
each step to clear the floor/ground when that "rear" foot comes forward, 
especially when barefooted.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "archer" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 11:15 AM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita


FWIW: I had a similar problem, Wilton.  Solved it by wearing real Indian 
mocassins that have no hard sole; just a thin piece of leather that wraps 
around the bottom of the foot and the toe.Daughter got them from a 
place in Colorado that's on the net.  They wear surprisingly well.

Daughter bought sheepskin soft sole moccasins . (about $60):
http://www.totempolemn.com/mens/slippers/cat_25.html
But next ones I buy will probably be a cheaper soft sole. (About $35):
http://www.totempolemn.com/mens/casual/cat_16.html
Of course, your problem may be much worse than mine.
Gerry
---
From: "WILTON" 
It has gotten really hard for me to drive a stick shift; because of my 
loss

of feeling in my feet and my inability to lift my toes properly (tilt my
toes upward), I'm very prone to miss the clutch or catch my toe on the 
lower

edge of it, especially when I may need the clutch quickly.  'Sorry, Ed, I
may have to beg off on exercising the 911 this Winter.   ;<)))
Wilton



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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[Bill R]

Thanks Jim.  It can get to the whiney point, then to the half blink point.
I don't recall it being faster though, and worked fine while the blinker was
on.  Now everything [but the clock] that needs an electric feed is dead.  I
tried swapping around the relays that had the same number, but that made no
difference.  I'm thinking a bad ground that finally went from intermittent
and partial to total.  I'm well past my activity limit for today, even
though it is relatively cool at only 87.  I'll try some of it on Monday with
a tester.  IIRC, the flasher is left and up from the brake pedal, suspended
right at the back of the knee panel.  I might have been working with the
flasher a couple of years ago [unless it is the same?].  
BillR  

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of j...@windwireless.net
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 11:07 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

The flasher will whine/buzz if there's a load on it
even when the switch (to the lamps) is off.  I found
this out when I hooked up an auxiliary clacker
relay in the SL, but did it 'wrong'.

In normal operation it flashes when it sees a
full load on it, and waits quietly until it does see
such a load.  Remember that it's calibrated to
flash faster under a too-light load, as a lamp-out
warning.  Taken to extremes apparently it can
get to the buzz/whine point.

Pull the flasher and measure the resistance from
the output socket pin to ground, there should be
infinite resistance unless a turn signal or hazard
switch is engaged.  I'm guessing it's a leaky/dirty
hazard switch that's letting some current, at a
non-illuminating level, travel through it.  Regardless,
I'm thinking you'll find a parasitic leak, and your
job is to chase it down and kill it.

-- Jim


From: "Bill R" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:12 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD 

I didn't know the relays were interchangeable.  I had noticed that there
seems to be more pins than metal contact sleeves in some of the sockets, 
and
wondered if I had knocked one loose during the [relatively gentle] 
cleaning.
I'll take a look at the numbers on the relays.
Thanks - Bill

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of MG
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:09 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Maybe a relay problem since it changes when you messed with that 
relay. I would try switching another relay of the same type from 
another position and see if it improves. If not then look for a 
bad contact on the back of the instrument panel. Possible loose 
wire or even a broken trace on the board. A loose wire can make a 
buzzing noise when the power sparks across the gap. Check all the 
contacts in the plug on the back of the board.

Manfred

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:47:28 -0400
From: "Bill R" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Guess I should get a bit more specific.  The temp, fuel, oil pressure
[pegged at the top] speedo, tach and blinkers are dead.  The 
clock. odo and
flashers do work.
BillR

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[MBZ] OT: Mocassins. Was: Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[archer]

FWIW: I had a similar problem, Wilton.  Solved it by wearing real Indian 
mocassins that have no hard sole; just a thin piece of leather that wraps 
around the bottom of the foot and the toe.Daughter got them from a place 
in Colorado that's on the net.  They wear surprisingly well.

Daughter bought sheepskin soft sole moccasins . (about $60):
http://www.totempolemn.com/mens/slippers/cat_25.html
But next ones I buy will probably be a cheaper soft sole. (About $35):
http://www.totempolemn.com/mens/casual/cat_16.html
Of course, your problem may be much worse than mine.
Gerry
---
From: "WILTON" 
It has gotten really hard for me to drive a stick shift; because of my 
loss

of feeling in my feet and my inability to lift my toes properly (tilt my
toes upward), I'm very prone to miss the clutch or catch my toe on the 
lower

edge of it, especially when I may need the clutch quickly.  'Sorry, Ed, I
may have to beg off on exercising the 911 this Winter.   ;<)))
Wilton



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Re: [MBZ] Best wax?

[OK Don]

So you can glue/tape the badges back on over the wax? Do they actually stick
to the wax?

 If they are glued on, use dental floss as a cutter by running it behind the
> badge and moving it back and forth to cut through the adhesive.  Go to a
> good quality body shop supply house and by some new tape and reapply it when
> done.
>
> Dan
>
> --
> OK Don
> Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[WILTON]

Finding a parasitic leak = real "fun."   ;<

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD



The flasher will whine/buzz if there's a load on it
even when the switch (to the lamps) is off.  I found
this out when I hooked up an auxiliary clacker
relay in the SL, but did it 'wrong'.

In normal operation it flashes when it sees a
full load on it, and waits quietly until it does see
such a load.  Remember that it's calibrated to
flash faster under a too-light load, as a lamp-out
warning.  Taken to extremes apparently it can
get to the buzz/whine point.

Pull the flasher and measure the resistance from
the output socket pin to ground, there should be
infinite resistance unless a turn signal or hazard
switch is engaged.  I'm guessing it's a leaky/dirty
hazard switch that's letting some current, at a
non-illuminating level, travel through it.  Regardless,
I'm thinking you'll find a parasitic leak, and your
job is to chase it down and kill it.

-- Jim


From: "Bill R" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:12 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

I didn't know the relays were interchangeable.  I had noticed that there
seems to be more pins than metal contact sleeves in some of the sockets,
and
wondered if I had knocked one loose during the [relatively gentle]
cleaning.
I'll take a look at the numbers on the relays.
Thanks - Bill

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of MG
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:09 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Maybe a relay problem since it changes when you messed with that
relay. I would try switching another relay of the same type from
another position and see if it improves. If not then look for a
bad contact on the back of the instrument panel. Possible loose
wire or even a broken trace on the board. A loose wire can make a
buzzing noise when the power sparks across the gap. Check all the
contacts in the plug on the back of the board.

Manfred

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:47:28 -0400
From: "Bill R"
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Guess I should get a bit more specific.  The temp, fuel, oil pressure
[pegged at the top] speedo, tach and blinkers are dead.  The
clock. odo and
flashers do work.
BillR

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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[j...@windwireless.net]

The flasher will whine/buzz if there's a load on it
even when the switch (to the lamps) is off.  I found
this out when I hooked up an auxiliary clacker
relay in the SL, but did it 'wrong'.

In normal operation it flashes when it sees a
full load on it, and waits quietly until it does see
such a load.  Remember that it's calibrated to
flash faster under a too-light load, as a lamp-out
warning.  Taken to extremes apparently it can
get to the buzz/whine point.

Pull the flasher and measure the resistance from
the output socket pin to ground, there should be
infinite resistance unless a turn signal or hazard
switch is engaged.  I'm guessing it's a leaky/dirty
hazard switch that's letting some current, at a
non-illuminating level, travel through it.  Regardless,
I'm thinking you'll find a parasitic leak, and your
job is to chase it down and kill it.

-- Jim


From: "Bill R" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 6:12 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD 

I didn't know the relays were interchangeable.  I had noticed that there
seems to be more pins than metal contact sleeves in some of the sockets, 
and
wondered if I had knocked one loose during the [relatively gentle] 
cleaning.
I'll take a look at the numbers on the relays.
Thanks - Bill

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of MG
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:09 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Maybe a relay problem since it changes when you messed with that 
relay. I would try switching another relay of the same type from 
another position and see if it improves. If not then look for a 
bad contact on the back of the instrument panel. Possible loose 
wire or even a broken trace on the board. A loose wire can make a 
buzzing noise when the power sparks across the gap. Check all the 
contacts in the plug on the back of the board.

Manfred

Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:47:28 -0400
From: "Bill R" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Guess I should get a bit more specific.  The temp, fuel, oil pressure
[pegged at the top] speedo, tach and blinkers are dead.  The 
clock. odo and
flashers do work.
BillR

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Re: [MBZ] Best wax?

[archer]

Great information!  I'll try to post a picture after it's done.
Gerry

From: "LWB250" 
Yeah, guess I need to finish that part of the Web site, don't I?
It's like this:
Remove trim, door handles, windshield washer jets, etc.
Wash (by hand, ideally)
Dry
Clay bar all horizontal surfaces at least, best to do everything
If it's not a clear coat and is oxidized, use Machine Polish to clean up 
finish

Wax
Wax (yes, do it twice the first time)
Clean trim and use Tire Gel on black rubber/plastic parts
Reinstall the trim
Sit back and admire your work.


From: Benz Hogs 
Outline the process?
Luther

LWB250 wrote:
> There is actually a process you want to go through
from the start to get the best protection on your
finish. It takes a good day or two to do it all, but
it's really a once a year (or two) thing, with regular
waxings to maintain the finish.
> Mach sure you get a random orbit buffer and some good
pads. You'll cover a lot more ground and do it a lot
faster with one of these.
> Ask if you have any other questions
> Dan



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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[WILTON]

They're mounted very simply and dismantle very easily; take 'em apart, 
clean, lub, etc.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror 
components

on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight

Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness



Wilton-Is it manual (like old 204D) or electric?
Thanks,
Dwight




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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita

[WILTON]

It has gotten really hard for me to drive a stick shift; because of my loss 
of feeling in my feet and my inability to lift my toes properly (tilt my 
toes upward), I'm very prone to miss the clutch or catch my toe on the lower 
edge of it, especially when I may need the clutch quickly.  'Sorry, Ed, I 
may have to beg off on exercising the 911 this Winter.   ;<)))


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "ernest breakfield" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel Bug For Sale in Wichita


there are lots of reasons for wanting an automatic over a stick that might 
be valid for some folk, and that doesn't make them any more likely to be 
inadequately cared for. commutes in stop-&-go traffic, extremity 
injuries,... even the fact that some cars only came with a stick (like our 
300Ds).


   as for the Camaro, i don't see any way that idiots wrapping them around 
trees is going to statistically make the Camaro show up as having any 
higher incidence of repair.



cheers!
e


Jim Cathey wrote:
   check the reviewers and enthusiasts websites, and look at how much 
higher the incidence of repair and cost of repair is for the auto as 
compared to the manual trans.


Cause?  Or effect?  How many people that want an automatic
transmission are looking for an A->B adapter and thus tend
to neglect/thrash their cars?

My Camaro had an absolutely terrible rating in Consumer
Reports, but when you looked into it the problem was jerk
kids wrapping them around trees.  The car itself was a
fine one, I always really liked mine.  If you weren't a
jerk kid with an affinity for trees, the 'problem' was
non-existent.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Concrete

[WILTON]

Bingo!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Craig McCluskey" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 10:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Concrete



On Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:43:53 -0400 "WILTON"  wrote:


OK -- Why do concrete slabs have heavy, welded wire fabric (WWF) in
them; or  even fiberglass strands mixed into some?


Because the wire or fiberglass is good in tension and takes up the load
from the concrete when the slab is in tension. The concrete is excellent
in compression while the wire and fiberglass are not.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[Curt Raymond]

Surprisingly easy.
Pull the glass out by sticking a flat blade screwdriver under the outer edge 
and gently popping it out of the socket. Then pull the glass away from the car 
and its out.
The glass fits into a channel kind of arrangement, the ball at the outside 
doesn't do anything but give the glass a pivot point.

Follow the channel thing in toward the door and you'll see where the arm from 
the adjuster connects. Spray the heck out of that with PB Blaster or the like, 
then spray in BEHIND it where the other connection is (the one I broke). Let it 
sit in the warm sun for an hour or two spraying occasionally. Then gently work 
the arm around, spray more, leave it for awhile, wash, rinse, repeat.

Working that way you shouldn't break the inner arm like I did... Take it slow 
and you'll be fine.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 8 Aug 2009 07:20:53 -0400
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Message-ID: <002801ca181a$4ae8af60$e0ba0e...@net>
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"

OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror components
on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight 

Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton


  
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Re: [MBZ] mirror madness

[Curt Raymond]

Its hard to tell if it'll be more weathered than the one I've got ;) This is my 
$400 car remember...

Thanks Tom, I've sent you an email directly.

While I'm thinking of it (Tom's sig reminded me) theres just over a month to go 
until ChowdaQ 2009, September 12th at Goddard State Park in Warwick, RI. All MB 
enthusiasts are welcome, there will be some special prizes INCLUDING: Longest 
distance traveled (sorry Fred, nothing special for getting lost) and Cheapest 
car.
I'd be in the running for both but Angie and I will be camping in RI for the 
weekend...
After lunch we'll do our yearly trek to Harbor Freight. Last year we had 3 old 
MBs (2 - 201s and a 123) lined up for a photo with Harbor Freight in the 
background. I'd like to double that this year!

-Curt

Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 19:39:12 -0400
From: "WILTON" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] mirror madness
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
    reply-type=original

And you can switch chrome from one to another.  I did on my '81 300D years 
ago.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "tom tomscat" 
To: 
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 7:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] mirror madness


>
> Hi Curt,
>
>
>
> I have a manual driver's side mirror for a W123.  I used it on my W115 
> until I could locate a W115 replacement.  Chrome is a little weathered, 
> but you may be able to clean it up a bit.  It's yours for the cost of 
> shipping.
>
>
>
> Tom Schuch
>
> SE Connecticut
>
> 1975 W115 300D (daily driver)
>


  
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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[Bill R]

I didn't know the relays were interchangeable.  I had noticed that there
seems to be more pins than metal contact sleeves in some of the sockets, and
wondered if I had knocked one loose during the [relatively gentle] cleaning.
I'll take a look at the numbers on the relays.
Thanks - Bill

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of MG
Sent: Saturday, August 08, 2009 8:09 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

Maybe a relay problem since it changes when you messed with that 
relay. I would try switching another relay of the same type from 
another position and see if it improves. If not then look for a 
bad contact on the back of the instrument panel. Possible loose 
wire or even a broken trace on the board. A loose wire can make a 
buzzing noise when the power sparks across the gap. Check all the 
contacts in the plug on the back of the board.

Manfred



Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:47:28 -0400
From: "Bill R" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD


Guess I should get a bit more specific.  The temp, fuel, oil pressure
[pegged at the top] speedo, tach and blinkers are dead.  The 
clock. odo and
flashers do work.
BillR

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Re: [MBZ] Best wax?

[LWB250]

Yeah, guess I need to finish that part of the Web site, don't I?

It's like this:


Remove trim, door handles, windshield washer jets, etc.
Wash (by hand, ideally)
Dry
Clay bar all horizontal surfaces at least, best to do everything
If it's not a clear coat and is oxidized, use Machine Polish to clean up finish
Wax
Wax (yes, do it twice the first time)
Clean trim and use Tire Gel on black rubber/plastic parts
Reinstall the trim

Sit back and admire your work.

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, Benz Hogs  wrote:

> From: Benz Hogs 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best wax?
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 10:36 PM
> Outline the process?
> 
> Luther
> 
> LWB250 wrote:
> > There is actually a process you want to go through
> from the start to get the best protection on your
> finish.  It takes a good day or two to do it all, but
> it's really a once a year (or two) thing, with regular
> waxings to maintain the finish.
> > 
> > Mach sure you get a random orbit buffer and some good
> pads.  You'll cover a lot more ground and do it a lot
> faster with one of these.
> > 
> > Ask if you have any other questions
> > 
> > Dan
> > 
> 
> --
> Luther   KB5QHU    Alma, Ark
> '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
> '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
> '82 300CD (183 kmi)
> '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
> '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine "The Accordion"
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


  

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Re: [MBZ] Best wax?

[LWB250]

They should have metal pins on the back with plastic inserts on the truck lid 
that the pins press in to.  If this is the case, just carefully press them back 
in place.  I often use a piece of pine that is larger than the badge to press 
it in all at one time so it doesn't get cocked or bent in the process.

If they are glued on, use dental floss as a cutter by running it behind the 
badge and moving it back and forth to cut through the adhesive.  Go to a good 
quality body shop supply house and by some new tape and reapply it when done.

Dan

--- On Fri, 8/7/09, Benz Hogs  wrote:

> From: Benz Hogs 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Best wax?
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Date: Friday, August 7, 2009, 10:49 PM
> I've read all of that.  How do
> you reinstall the trunk badges?
> 
> Luther
> 
> LWB250 wrote:
> > I forgot I documented all of this on my web
> site.  It starts at:
> > 
> > http://penoff.com/Detailing1.html
> > 
> > Dan/Martha
> 
> --
> Luther   KB5QHU    Alma, Ark
> '87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
> '85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
> '82 300CD (183 kmi)
> '82 300D  (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
> '85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine "The Accordion"
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


  

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Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD

[MG]

Maybe a relay problem since it changes when you messed with that 
relay. I would try switching another relay of the same type from 
another position and see if it improves. If not then look for a 
bad contact on the back of the instrument panel. Possible loose 
wire or even a broken trace on the board. A loose wire can make a 
buzzing noise when the power sparks across the gap. Check all the 
contacts in the plug on the back of the board.


Manfred



Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 2009 16:47:28 -0400
From: "Bill R" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dash console dead - 1981 300SD


Guess I should get a bit more specific.  The temp, fuel, oil pressure
[pegged at the top] speedo, tach and blinkers are dead.  The 
clock. odo and

flashers do work.
BillR

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Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

OK-thanks. Mine 240D is manual and I could really use new mirror components
on both sides-or take lesson from Curt on how to free up.
Dwight 

Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:12 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness

Electric.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" 
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mirror madness


> Wilton-Is it manual (like old 204D) or electric?
> Thanks,
> Dwight
>


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Re: [MBZ] Stu is copying material from okiebenz to give advise on his list

[Barry Stark]

OH! I guess I never saw that part of the post or I read right past it
thinking it was more Stu bashing. In that case I guess I was wrong. My
apologies. (choking on the crow feathers).

Barry

> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-
> boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
> Sent: Thursday, August 06, 2009 4:34 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Stu is copying material from okiebenz to give advise
> on his list
> 
> Barry Stark wrote:
> >> except that a google search turns on said post from the okiebenz
> >> archives, not from any other list.
> >
> >
> > Kaleb -
> > Not trying to start an argument here but the reason that you couldn't
> find
> > anything on this from a search of Google was only members of Stu's
> list have
> > access to its' archives. Most of the data on this R4 thing that I
> have seen
> > has come out through Marshall and as I have said he was at least
> > contributing regularly to two lists, yours and Stu's. I know that you
> and
> > others have issues with Stu and Easley and would like to find a
> reason to
> > find fault but in this case I'm afraid you are misinformed.
> 
> I'm afraid you didn't read Stu's post, in which he states that he
> 'copied from a
> Google search from another list'. Therefore, to claim that everybody
> but you is
> misinformed and that the information came from Stu's list would be
> FALSE.
> 
> I did the same search that Stu did, and the only thing I found that
> matched was
> Marshall's post to this list.
> I don't know how more plain it could get than that.
> http://www.mail-archive.com/mercedes@okiebenz.com/msg57086.html
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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> 
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> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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