Re: [MBZ] The death of high fidelity

2007-12-31 Thread Chris Lane
All this talk of clipping tubes and solid state amps makes me think of the
many experiments performed at the music store I worked at a while back.  Of
course we had to try every piece of gear out to make sure that it worked.
Guitars, amps, speakers, whatever.  There are companies making very complex,
very high-end gear.  I always found it amusing when people would come in
looking for a pedal to give them a specific sound.  At the time I was there
Rage Against the Machine was very popular, and a lot of the young kids would
ask what pedal he used to get his distortion.  I had to tell them that he
just turned up a tube amp.  At which point I got the strangest look from all
the 13 year olds wanting to sound like Tim C.  The only way to explain was
to crank up a tube amp, and play the crap out of it.  A lot of what is being
done now is refining what was done in the 60's with tube amps.  Speaker
cabinet design has been using old ideas as well.  There is a company making
transmission line enclosures as bass guitar amps.  They are supposed to be
flat.  I didn't have any way to test that, but they were very good for
certain kinds of rigs, and handled TONS of power.  I had 1600 watts RMS
through a cab rated at 400 RMS.
As for a hybrid designs using tube pre-amps and solid state power, they can
be very good sounding.  It still isn't the same sound as having power amp
tubes to drive to clipping.  But in most situations the only person that
will notice is the person playing through it.  If they even hear it at all.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Browsers.

2007-12-12 Thread Chris Lane
I have been using the Opera web browser for a long time.  It's faster than
IE whatever, a smaller download, free, and it works well in almost every web
site that I have found.
Probably what you will have to do is download and install several browsers
to see what you like best.
There are some pretty unique features in Opera as well.  If I want to go
back a page from the page I'm looking at all I have to do is right click,
and slide the mouse to the left.  So I don't have to use the right click
menus, although they are there, or go up to the back button.  Also there is
a "speed dial" feature.  Which allows me to set commonly used web pages and
click on an image of the page to go to it.  Of course I still can type in
the address if I want, or use bookmarks.

On 12/12/07, Wonko the Sane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> There is an interesting overlap between the Benz list and the Linux list.
> ;-)
>
> On Dec 12, 2007 9:58 PM, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Well - if you like to fiddle with the stuff in/on the PC, Firefox,
> > etc. are more fun. If you just want to use it, and can keep it patched
> > up, use what came with it.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> LT Don
> http://don.homelinux.net/~don/
> Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.
>
> Make a small loan, Make a big difference - Kiva.org
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Wrench size - Block heater

2007-12-02 Thread Chris Lane
I'm not keen on trying something like this, personally.
http://www.dieselgiant.com has a block heater that actually goes in the
radiator hose, and heats the coolant there.  Seems like it would be a lot
easier to replace the section of hose there than remove the block heater.
 I've never read any reports of problems with his heater.  I have one that I
have not had a chance to install.  I was going to and ran into some issues
with doing it.

On 12/2/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> After you remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, (unless you have
> the car up on a lift), are a flame wrench, as Jim recommended, about
> a 16" cold chisel and a 4 lb hammer.  By the time you get the plug to
> turn, you can turn it with your fingers.  At that point, you most
> likely won't be able to get a socket into it.  Last one I did would
> not budge with a 6 ft cheater and flame wrench, the combination of
> flame wrench and BIG chisel and BFH worked, but nothing else worked.
>
>
> At 11:33 AM 12/2/2007, you wrote:
> > > What size tool (hex head) will I need to remove the screw-in plug on a
> > > 1984 300D to install a new Block Heater?
> >
> >19mm or 3/4", they're extremely close.  But this can be a
> >very difficult job.  I recommend draining the block and
> >using a torch for heat.  See:
> >
> >http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/frankenheap.html#blockheater
> >
> >-- Jim
> >
> >
> >___
> >http://www.okiebenz.com
> >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
> Loren Faeth
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Changing glow plugs?

2007-11-30 Thread Chris Lane
The discussion here has answered a lot of questions, and of course
opened up some more for me.  The carbon thing is confusing me.  I
understand the heat release thing from earlier, but I'm not clear on
if the tips of the plugs themselves get covered with carbon and then
don't come out of the hole, or if the carbon just causes the plug to
not operate as well as it should.

Then what is the best way to stop the fuel when I am blowing the crap
out of the glow plug hole?  Just disconnect the fuel filter?  That
would leave some fuel but not a lot. Probably more than I want.
Chris

On 11/30/07, Bill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Manfred - You seemed filled with imaginative images these days. Are you
> related to Dean Koontz [in a good direction]??
> BillR
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of M G
> Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 9:03 AM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Changing glow plugs?
>
>
> Yeah one of my Dad's old chestnuts, Larry.
> Now that I've shared it you all you can help carry the burden. :-)
>
> I know I've never done anything that stupid before and never will either
>
> Those little things do get mighty hot don't they. And how about that little
> rim of yellowish and brown burned skin around the edge.
> Kind of like the same color as when you burn the hair off the back of your
> arm.
>
> Mind you like I said, I've never done anything like that...It's all just
> hearsay.
> Yeah that's all.You do believe me don't you?
>
> Manfred
>
> Just thinking about it brings the memory back like a kiss on the end of a
> wet fist.
>
> - Original Message -
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2007 20:23:06 -0500
> From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Changing glow plugs?
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>  reply-type=original
>
> Hi Manfred,
> Great story!
>
> Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> .
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Never miss a thing.   Make Yahoo your homepage.
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>

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Re: [MBZ] Changing glow plugs?

2007-11-29 Thread Chris Lane
Basicly what I did was look for either infinite ohms, which would indicate
an open circuit, or an impedance greater than one ohm.  I did this based on
what I found at http://www.dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm

On 11/29/07, Dave H... <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Could you please elaborate on the resistance comment for testing glow
> plugs?
> is there a ohm reading that states the glow plug is acceptable and
> anything
> above/below that reading is a call to replace that glow plug?
>
>
> Dave H...
>
> --
> From: "John M McIntosh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2007 11:15 PM
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Changing glow plugs?
>
> > So what resistance did you measure? Some meters might not give
> > accurate readings?
> > Well mind given your other comments likely they are bad.
> >
> > Disconnect the wires, don't drop the nuts, use one of those racheting
> > wenches.
> > If there is not a problem with carbon buildup they should just
> > unscrew. Otherwise you
> > are into fun to ensure you don't break the tips off.
> >
> >
> > My copy of the Beru glow plug manual notes:
> >
> > Observe the breakage torque when dismantling glow plugs.
> > On no account carry on turning - the glow plug could
> > otherwise break. Instead, proceed according to the 3-point
> > programme: heat up - release -unscrew:
> >
> > 1. Heat up: Run the engine until it is warm or apply
> > current to the intact glow plug through a separate cable
> > for 4-5 minutes - this heats up the glow plug and burns
> > it free.
> >
> > 2. Release: Apply a generous quantity of anti-rust agent or
> > multi-functional oil to the base of the thread and leave
> > to work in for approx. 5 minutes.
> >
> > 3. Unscrew: Then start a new attempt to unscrew the plug
> > and use suitable tools to release the glow plug from the
> > cylinder head. (Do not exceed the maximum release tor-
> > que - see table below. Make sure you stop before you
> > reach the breakage torque, if necessary start a new
> > attempt by applying heat.)
> >
> > After the old glow plugs have been removed, make sure you
> > clean the thread, the pin seat and the glow plug channel
> > with a suitable tool.
> >
> > Glow plug thread Breakage torque
> > 8 mm 20 Nm
> > 10 mm 35 Nm
> > 12 mm 45 Nm
> >
> > Observe the torque specified by the manufacturer when
> > screwing in a new glow plug:
> >
> > Note: The tightening torque of the connecting nut must be taken
> > into account when dealing with glow plugs with screw connection:
> > The Beru ring-ratchet-spanner
> > (order no. 0 890 100 002): ideal  to dismantle and assemble glow
> > plugs, even in very tricky spots.
> >
> > Glow plug thread Tightening torque
> > M 4 2 Nm
> > M 5 3 Nm
> > M 8 10 Nm
> > M 10 12–15 Nm
> > M 12 20–22 Nm
> >
> >
> > Also see
> > http://www.beru.com/english/produkte/gluehkerzen/einbautipps.php
> >
> >
> > On Nov 27, 2007, at 7:55 PM, Chris Lane wrote:
> >
> >> Today I went outside with my newly liberated meter, and found that 3
> >> of my 5
> >> glow plugs seem to be bad.  My glow plug light stopped working a
> >> little
> >> while back, and I have not been able to check that out until now.  I
> >> measured the impedance of each one at the relay.  So, I'm figuring
> >> that I
> >> should just change them all.  The relay seemed ok, as much as I
> >> could check
> >> it out today.
> >> So my question is, is there anything funky about replacing them?
> >> Spark
> >> plugs are no problem, unless they are in a Toyota Previa (In which
> >> case you
> >> have to take out the passenger seat, and open the floor of the van
> >> to get to
> >> them).  Its in an 82 300SD, so a 617.  All five of them seem like they
> >> should be fairly easy to get to.  The 5th one looks like the
> >> trickiest, just
> >> because of the oil filter housing, but there should be plenty of
> >> space.  Are
> >> there any special tools that are needed to replace them?  Do I just
> >> diconnect the wires, and get the appropriate sized wrench and start
> >> removing
> >> them, and then reverse the operation to install the new ones?
> >> Thanks,
> >> Chris
> >> ___
> >

Re: [MBZ] Oil puzzlement, more

2007-11-28 Thread Chris Lane
If it has not been done yet, I would change the B2 piston while you have the
tranny out of the car. In my SD it was doable but tricky with it still in
the car. I don't know if a 124 is wide enough to pull it off. I'd also bet
it could be done in half the time out of the car. Mine was leaking from a
corner of the gasket, where the PO had left a bolt off the pan at some
point. So that is possible at least.

On 11/28/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> After I got home today and was able to look at the oil, it has to be
> ATF, and the trans was low.  By today there was about a quart leaked
> out on the driveway, i'd guess.
>
> IF the torque converter is loosing its oil, then replacing the front
> seal on the trans would cure that?  If I take the trans out, as a
> min, I would reseal the whole thing, along with whatever the group
> collectively thinks is worthwhile PM while it is out.  I HOPE i don't
> have to do that until spring, at least.
>
> Reason number 542 why I hate automatic transmissions and swore I'd
> never learn to work on them
>
> Subject is E320, 1994, Strassendirne (Alleycat)
>
> If you had precviously responded to this, please resend your
> reply.  My email host server that the virtual server resides on died
> at 3 am this morning, and all today's email has been lost.  Thanks!
>
>
>
>
> Loren Faeth
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Changing glow plugs?

2007-11-27 Thread Chris Lane
The three that I am pretty sure are bad measured somewhere in the
neighborhood of 50 ohms.  I was using
an anolog meter, so I don't know, but it was on 100 ohm, and it
stopped around the middle.  One and 5 looked like they were around 1
ohm.

If they are carboned up they will be tougher to get out?  How do I keep from
breaking off the tips?

On 11/27/07, John M McIntosh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> So what resistance did you measure? Some meters might not give
> accurate readings?
> Well mind given your other comments likely they are bad.
>
> Disconnect the wires, don't drop the nuts, use one of those racheting
> wenches.
> If there is not a problem with carbon buildup they should just
> unscrew. Otherwise you
> are into fun to ensure you don't break the tips off.
>
>
> My copy of the Beru glow plug manual notes:
>
> Observe the breakage torque when dismantling glow plugs.
> On no account carry on turning - the glow plug could
> otherwise break. Instead, proceed according to the 3-point
> programme: heat up - release -unscrew:
>
> 1. Heat up: Run the engine until it is warm or apply
> current to the intact glow plug through a separate cable
> for 4-5 minutes - this heats up the glow plug and burns
> it free.
>
> 2. Release: Apply a generous quantity of anti-rust agent or
> multi-functional oil to the base of the thread and leave
> to work in for approx. 5 minutes.
>
> 3. Unscrew: Then start a new attempt to unscrew the plug
> and use suitable tools to release the glow plug from the
> cylinder head. (Do not exceed the maximum release tor-
> que - see table below. Make sure you stop before you
> reach the breakage torque, if necessary start a new
> attempt by applying heat.)
>
> After the old glow plugs have been removed, make sure you
> clean the thread, the pin seat and the glow plug channel
> with a suitable tool.
>
> Glow plug thread Breakage torque
> 8 mm 20 Nm
> 10 mm 35 Nm
> 12 mm 45 Nm
>
> Observe the torque specified by the manufacturer when
> screwing in a new glow plug:
>
> Note: The tightening torque of the connecting nut must be taken
> into account when dealing with glow plugs with screw connection:
> The Beru ring-ratchet-spanner
> (order no. 0 890 100 002): ideal  to dismantle and assemble glow
> plugs, even in very tricky spots.
>
> Glow plug thread Tightening torque
> M 4 2 Nm
> M 5 3 Nm
> M 8 10 Nm
> M 10 12–15 Nm
> M 12 20–22 Nm
>
>
> Also see
> http://www.beru.com/english/produkte/gluehkerzen/einbautipps.php
>
>
> On Nov 27, 2007, at 7:55 PM, Chris Lane wrote:
>
> > Today I went outside with my newly liberated meter, and found that 3
> > of my 5
> > glow plugs seem to be bad.  My glow plug light stopped working a
> > little
> > while back, and I have not been able to check that out until now.  I
> > measured the impedance of each one at the relay.  So, I'm figuring
> > that I
> > should just change them all.  The relay seemed ok, as much as I
> > could check
> > it out today.
> > So my question is, is there anything funky about replacing them?
> > Spark
> > plugs are no problem, unless they are in a Toyota Previa (In which
> > case you
> > have to take out the passenger seat, and open the floor of the van
> > to get to
> > them).  Its in an 82 300SD, so a 617.  All five of them seem like they
> > should be fairly easy to get to.  The 5th one looks like the
> > trickiest, just
> > because of the oil filter housing, but there should be plenty of
> > space.  Are
> > there any special tools that are needed to replace them?  Do I just
> > diconnect the wires, and get the appropriate sized wrench and start
> > removing
> > them, and then reverse the operation to install the new ones?
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
> John
> 1983 300TDt  385k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1990's 300TDt  213k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
> 1993 500SEL 201k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
>
>
>
> ___
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Changing glow plugs?

2007-11-27 Thread Chris Lane
Ok, the reaming is actually something I have heard of, but never really
understood what is being done.  Its not cleaning the threads, its actually
cleaning further in, as in in the chamber, am I correct on that?  Doesn't
that put pieces of carbon loose into the sylinder?  Isn't having crap loose
in the cylinder a bad thing?

On 11/27/07, Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> use a 12mm ratcheting box-end wrench to make access easier - hard to get
> to
> with sockets.  Thread the new ones in by hand - last thing you want to do
> is
> cross-thread the holes.Some people put a little oil on the threads,
> some
> don't - I think the torque ratings for the plugs are for dry threads.
>
> If there's a lot of carbon in the holes, you'll probably want to ream out
> the excess carbon before putting in new plugs.
>
> And don't lose the nuts holding the electrical wires on the plugs -
> they're
> a bear to relocate once they fall off into the engine bay.
>
> On Nov 27, 2007 10:55 PM, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Today I went outside with my newly liberated meter, and found that 3 of
> my
> > 5
> > glow plugs seem to be bad.  My glow plug light stopped working a little
> > while back, and I have not been able to check that out until now.  I
> > measured the impedance of each one at the relay.  So, I'm figuring that
> I
> > should just change them all.  The relay seemed ok, as much as I could
> > check
> > it out today.
> > So my question is, is there anything funky about replacing them?  Spark
> > plugs are no problem, unless they are in a Toyota Previa (In which case
> > you
> > have to take out the passenger seat, and open the floor of the van to
> get
> > to
> > them).  Its in an 82 300SD, so a 617.  All five of them seem like they
> > should be fairly easy to get to.  The 5th one looks like the trickiest,
> > just
> > because of the oil filter housing, but there should be plenty of space.
> >  Are
> > there any special tools that are needed to replace them?  Do I just
> > diconnect the wires, and get the appropriate sized wrench and start
> > removing
> > them, and then reverse the operation to install the new ones?
> > Thanks,
> > Chris
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Sunil Hari
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 513-205-7474
> 614-441-8164
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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[MBZ] Changing glow plugs?

2007-11-27 Thread Chris Lane
Today I went outside with my newly liberated meter, and found that 3 of my 5
glow plugs seem to be bad.  My glow plug light stopped working a little
while back, and I have not been able to check that out until now.  I
measured the impedance of each one at the relay.  So, I'm figuring that I
should just change them all.  The relay seemed ok, as much as I could check
it out today.
So my question is, is there anything funky about replacing them?  Spark
plugs are no problem, unless they are in a Toyota Previa (In which case you
have to take out the passenger seat, and open the floor of the van to get to
them).  Its in an 82 300SD, so a 617.  All five of them seem like they
should be fairly easy to get to.  The 5th one looks like the trickiest, just
because of the oil filter housing, but there should be plenty of space.  Are
there any special tools that are needed to replace them?  Do I just
diconnect the wires, and get the appropriate sized wrench and start removing
them, and then reverse the operation to install the new ones?
Thanks,
Chris
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Re: [MBZ] Oil puzzlement

2007-11-27 Thread Chris Lane
If it has not been done yet, I would change the B2 piston while you have the
tranny out of the car.   In my SD it was doable but tricky with it still in
the car.  I don't know if a 124 is wide enough to pull it off.  I'd also bet
it could be done in half the time out of the car.  Mine was leaking from a
corner of the gasket, where the PO had left a bolt off the pan at some
point.  So that is possible at least.

On 11/27/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> After I got home today and was able to look at the oil, it has to be
> ATF, and the trans was low.  By today there was about a quart leaked
> out on the driveway, i'd guess.
>
> IF the torque converter is loosing its oil, then replacing the front
> seal on the trans would cure that?  If I take the trans out, as a
> min, I would reseal the whole thing, along with whatever the group
> collectively thinks is worthwhile PM while it is out.  I HOPE i don't
> have to do that until spring, at least.
>
> Reason number 542 why I hate automatic transmissions and swore I'd
> never learn to work on them
>
>
>
>
> Loren Faeth
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Blinker weirdness

2007-11-20 Thread Chris Lane
Does anybody have an idea where the blinker relay is on an 82 300SD?  I
tried working the emergency flasher and it didn't really do anything.  Now I
don't get any lights at all when the signal lights should be working.  I
still hear the relay fluttering, but that is all I get.

On 11/7/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > That was a common option on the 60' Falcon.
> > In order to get it, you had to delete the Rocker Arm oiling system.
>
> No kidding!  Mine's had an auxiliary oiler since
> about the mid-60's.  Taps into the oil pressure
> sender pipe.
>
> We replaced the rocker bar on mine once upon a time,
> and my brother forgot to open the valve.  On a long
> trip I started to hear squeaking, and I cracked the
> valve which made it go away.  Later I pulled it off
> and had a look, the new bar had huge scoring on it.
> I filed off the worst of it, on bar and rockers,
> turned over the bar, and drove it that way ever since.
> I still have the car, though it's rarely used.
>
> Same car that sucked a piece of the carburetor in and
> embedded it in a piston.  Made quite a racket.  20 minutes
> later I had the head off and pried the flattened piece of
> aluminum out of the piston.  I then put it back together.
> There's a glorious simplicity to those old inline pushrod
> engines, on cars with power nothing.  (Sadly, that also
> included the engine!)
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] What was the last real Mercedes?

2007-11-10 Thread Chris Lane
What about the 126?

On 11/10/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> First run of W140s, except the electronics.
>
> The last really good ones were the W124 chassis, KE-Jet models.
>
> The newer ones suffer from lousy sheet metal and poor crash protection.
>
> Peter
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Diesels Vs Hybrids

2007-11-08 Thread Chris Lane
I would imagine that a diesel hybrid would be the smartest way to go, at
least using currently available technology.  I know that there are some out
there, at least in the prototype phase, but I can't see any real obstacle
for them.  Thinking in terms of the last Golf TDI which got what 45mpg?  If
you were to run a hybrid system similar to the one in the old Honda Insight
it seems to me like you could have a really efficient and useful car.  My
brother has an Insight, and for him it works, of course he's single with no
kids or pets, and has lived in the same place forever.  He can actually get
close to 70mpg out of it.

On 11/8/07, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Then there is the whole battery nastiness issue -- manufacturing and
> disposal -- which is not negligible, but it is removed from view so you
> can "feel" better about driving the Prius.  And how one "feels" about
> the issue is the most important aspect!
>
> --R
>
> LarryT wrote:
> > This was in a industry magazine I get called "Foriegn Car Parts &
> > Accessories"
> > A poll was conducted in UK recently evaluating peoples understanding of
> > emissions and modern diesels.  90% did not rate the current diesel
> > technology on a favorable standing with hybrids.  The example used was
> the
> > Mini D and the Prius - both have very nearly equal emission levels.
> >
> > Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
> > www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
> > Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> > PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
> > Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> > .
> >
> >
> > ___
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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Re: [MBZ] Blinker weirdness

2007-11-06 Thread Chris Lane
I just went outside and checked that all the bulbs do light.  They do.  I
tried both the emergency flashers switch and the turn signal stalk.  All
four light up.  However the flutter still happens.  Both the emergency
flasher switch and the turn signal stalk make the flutter noise.

On 11/6/07, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thanks Tarek, now...
> I was assuming that it was the relay because all of the lights seem to be
> working, or seemed, I will have to check that, but on all of the cars I have
> had the blinker just stayed on when a light was out, and although I will
> concede that these are not the cars I have driven most, I just figured that
> they did some things like the Fords and Toyotas I have driven in the past.
>  I'll go take a lookk for a light that is out.
> Thanks
>
> On 11/6/07, Tarek Elshenawy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > You may want to check the flasher relay fluid level. The relay, located
> > under the driver's side footwell is often neglected and the
> > electro-conducive fluid level may be low.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 9:42 PM
> > To: Mercedes Discussion List
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] Blinker weirdness
> >
> > >  When I signalled the lights would light sometimes, and you could hear
> > > the
> > > relay clicking, but a much faster rate.
> >
> > That's what happens when you have a bulb out.  Or a bad connection
> > to one, which amounts to the same thing.  Even my '60 Falcon has
> > this feature.
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
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> >
> >
> >
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> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Blinker weirdness

2007-11-06 Thread Chris Lane
Thanks Tarek, now...
I was assuming that it was the relay because all of the lights seem to be
working, or seemed, I will have to check that, but on all of the cars I have
had the blinker just stayed on when a light was out, and although I will
concede that these are not the cars I have driven most, I just figured that
they did some things like the Fords and Toyotas I have driven in the past.
 I'll go take a lookk for a light that is out.
Thanks

On 11/6/07, Tarek Elshenawy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> You may want to check the flasher relay fluid level. The relay, located
> under the driver's side footwell is often neglected and the
> electro-conducive fluid level may be low.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
> Sent: Tuesday, November 06, 2007 9:42 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Blinker weirdness
>
> >  When I signalled the lights would light sometimes, and you could hear
> > the
> > relay clicking, but a much faster rate.
>
> That's what happens when you have a bulb out.  Or a bad connection
> to one, which amounts to the same thing.  Even my '60 Falcon has
> this feature.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
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>
>
>
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[MBZ] Blinker weirdness

2007-11-06 Thread Chris Lane
Today I needed to drive, and I try to be courteous and use my blinkers.
 When I signalled the lights would light sometimes, and you could hear the
relay clicking, but a much faster rate.  It was almost a fluttering sound
rather than the steady tick-tick.  It seems like this is worse when it is
cold out than when it is warm.  I'm guessing its a relay.  Any idea where
the relay is for the blinkers on a 126 300SD?
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-11-05 Thread Chris Lane
So make sure I have a full charge on the battery, and then look into the
rest of the system.  I do hear the relay click when they would shut off.  So
its possible that the battery not being fully charged is causing the
problems.  Which I was thinking could be part of it.  Of course new glow
plugs and relay seems like it should be easier for me to do than weld the
exhaust back together.

On 11/5/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Chris Lane wrote:
> >
> > No, the glow plug light just stopped lighting up, basicly as soon as we
> got
> > the car put back together from the B2.
>
> I had a 8 year old compact battery in the 300SD when the glow light quit
> working. Replaced it with a new group 49 and it started working normally
> again. It seems you need a good voltage supply to keep the relay from
> thinking something is wrong.
> Mitch.
>
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-11-05 Thread Chris Lane
No, the glow plug light just stopped lighting up, basicly as soon as we got
the car put back together from the B2.  The battery was low from sitting for
a good part of the year, and I have not been driving it much due to the
exhaust issues.  I'm going to try and find a meter ASAP.  I was checking out
how to check them on the dieselgiant web site.

On 11/5/07, Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> "Chris Lane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>
> > I also am thinking I have some glow plug related problems, all of
> > the sudden.  Just in time for winter, of course.
>
> Haven't really been following this thread, but if starting just became
> difficult when the mornings got colder, could be you need to adjust
> valve clearances.  Could be a glow plug issue too of course, and best
> to rule that out first -- does the dash lamp illuminate properly?  Try
> unplugging the connector at the relay and check resistance of each
> plug -- they should all be the same, and about 0.6 ohms I believe.
> This can vary a bit depending on your meter; most cheap meters are not
> very accurate at that low in the range.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1966 230
>
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-11-03 Thread Chris Lane
DIY was the original idea when I bought the car.  Figuring that since there
was no computer I would be able to do a lot of the owrk on it myself.  Of
course my background is a bit more limited in working on cars or anything
else, but I figured there's no better time to learn than now.
I also am thinking I have some glow plug related problems, all of the
sudden.   Just in time for winter, of course.

On 11/3/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > This car has just gotten really frustrating of late.
>
> Crap flows in cycles, or so it seems.  Me?  I'd vote
> for DIY, but I'm biased that way.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-11-03 Thread Chris Lane
I wish I could say no, but for right now, yes.  Although I guess its about
what I was looking at paying carx to weld in a new section of flexpipe.  I
could probably bolt the new section in.  Lots of PB blaster or something is
in order so that I
don't destroy something I need and end up needing to replace more
stuff, I'm sure.  This car has just gotten really frustratinig of
late.
Chris

On 11/3/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > It looks like the same kind of thing on the 617 as well, but like I
> > said as
> > far as budget goes this is not in the plan.  Especially after I just
> > got the
> > B2 piston working.
>
> Is the right pipe from Rusty really all that expensive?
> Just asking.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT things noticed on a bike

2007-11-02 Thread Chris Lane
I have to say that I am guilty of blowing through many stopsigns, although I
do tend to stop at lights when needed.  I also tend iff possible to try to
time my sign blowing to coincide with a driver who has made a legal stop at
a sign, and cross with him.  Not that that makes it any better.

On 11/2/07, wilton strickland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I've never thought nor said that I, as a motorist, have any more right to
> a
> traffic lane than a pedestrian or cyclist, and, as I said, "I have never
> tried to assert such a right, and will not."  I'm very concerned, though,
> to
> see too many bicyclists flagrantly disregard traffic signals, i. e., stop
> signs and red lights.
>
> Wilton
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-11-02 Thread Chris Lane
It looks like the same kind of thing on the 617 as well, but like I said as
far as budget goes this is not in the plan.  Especially after I just got the
B2 piston working.

On 11/2/07, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I bought the new section of pipe from Rusty when I found that it was
> cracked in the 300D 2.5. It is a welded into one piece pipe - on the
> 602 engine anyway.
>
> On 11/2/07, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Ok, so I really do need to get this back on the road.  Has anybody
> > experienced a similar break in the exhaust system?  My thinking is that
> I
> > need to find a similar flex pipe that I can clamp into place.  Or should
> I
> > just bite the bullet and have a shop weld in a length of flex pipe that
> is
> > the
> > appropriate size?  I guess ideally I should learn to weld, and do this
> myself.
>
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics."
> -Benjamin Disraeli
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT things you notice on a bicycle

2007-11-02 Thread Chris Lane
I think that the biggest problem on a bicycle is that unless there is a
specific bike lane you are either on the sidewalk or in the street.  I know
here, when I ride there are almost never bike lanes.  I tend to go where my
speed most closely matches the traffic.  If I'm going up a very long hill,
and all I can manage is 5mph, I'm going to be on the sidewalk, where I can
negotiate safely with pedestrians, which very often means I'm riding in the
grass next to the sidewalk, but if I'm doing 40mph down a hill, being on the
sidewalk is dangerous and stupid, so I'm in the street.  Normally its
somewhere in the middle of those extremes, and I'm as far to the right in
the street as safely possible.  Of course even when I'm following all of the
laws people in cars are very often just not paying attention, because like I
said, you don't really fit with the traffic on the road.


On 11/2/07, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> On Fri, 2 Nov 2007 21:49:11 -0500 "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > I was first thinking Will Rogers (being an Okie), but it's more likely
> > Winston Churchill.
> >
> >   "Ours is a terrible system, except in
> > > comparison to all the others." [Don't know who said that].
> > > BillR
> > >
>
>
> Many forms of Government have been tried, and will be tried in this world
> of sin and woe. No one pretends that democracy is perfect or all-wise.
> Indeed, it has been said that democracy is the worst form of Government
> except all those other forms that have been tried from time to time.
>
>
> WINSTON CHURCHILL, speech, House of Commons, November 11,
> 1947.\u2014Winston S. Churchill: His Complete Speeches, 1897\u20131963,
> ed. Robert Rhodes James, vol. 7, p. 7566 (1974).
>
> http://www.bartleby.com/73/417.html
>
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-11-02 Thread Chris Lane
Ok, so I really do need to get this back on the road.  Has anybody
experienced a similar break in the exhaust system?  My thinking is that I
need to find a similar flex pipe that I can clamp into place.  Or should I
just bite the bullet and have a shop weld in a length of flex pipe that is
the
appropriate size?  I guess ideally I should learn to weld, and do this myself.


On 10/31/07, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I didn't see clamps at all on this part.  The part that broke is right
> above where it makes the bend to go to the back of the car.
>
> On 10/31/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > > Is this something that is just hammered into place?  It doesn't look
> > > like
> > > something that you could weld, and there are no clamps on it.
> >
> > I think there are supposed to be clamps.  I've yet to have
> > to deal with one, however.
> >
> > -- Jim
> >
> >
> > ___
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> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-10-31 Thread Chris Lane
I didn't see clamps at all on this part.  The part that broke is right above
where it makes the bend to go to the back of the car.

On 10/31/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Is this something that is just hammered into place?  It doesn't look
> > like
> > something that you could weld, and there are no clamps on it.
>
> I think there are supposed to be clamps.  I've yet to have
> to deal with one, however.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
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[MBZ] Exhaust system question

2007-10-31 Thread Chris Lane
Ok, so not long ago I was posting a question about the B2 piston.  Well that
is fixed, and working great now.  In the process of fixing one thing I
managed to break something else.  In order to get a little extra clearance
to work, the rear part of the exhaust system got lowered with the front
still staying connected.  This got us enough room to work, and turned a
small hole in the flex pipe into an unraveling flex pipe.  Obviously I can't
reuse the old flex pipe, but how does it hold onto the rest of the pipe?
 Its about a foot long from what I can tell.
Is this something that is just hammered into place?  It doesn't look like
something that you could weld, and there are no clamps on it.
Thanks,
Chris
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Re: [MBZ] B2 piston question

2007-10-24 Thread Chris Lane
Ok, so here is the situation.  I have a 1982 300SD with a bad B2 piston.  I
know its bad, I had the "classic symptoms", took it apart, and the piston
came out in pieces, several of them actually.  I have a new piston ready to
go in, I have the new plastic ring to replace the old metal one, new orange
O ring to replace the old one, a bunch of fresh new tranny fluid ready to go
in.  This is a 722.303 transmission.  So, here is my question, in order to
get to the old metal ring which I have been hearing is very important to
replace, there is a seal of some sort that goes between the metal ring and
the flat part of the piston itself.  I guess I missed seeing it in any of
the pictures I have seen of this repair being done, and there was no mention
of it made on any of the sites I have seen.  This little seal is a bear to
get out, and I have no idea what the part number is to replace it because it
didn't come out in one piece.  Does anybody have any idea what the Mercedes
part number is for this little rubber seal?  I'm going to need to get to the
dealer to get it, and they don't know what I'm talking about.  I suspect
that they would rather sell me a new tranny and charge me labor for that job
than sell me the parts I need.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Chris
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[MBZ] B2 piston question

2007-10-23 Thread Chris Lane
Ok, so here is the situation.  I have a 1982 300SD with a bad B2 piston.  I
know its bad, I had the "classic symptoms", took it apart, and the piston
came out in pieces, several of them actually.  I have a new piston ready to
go in, I have the new plastic ring to replace the old metal one, new orange
O ring to replace the old one, a bunch of fresh new tranny fluid ready to go
in.  This is a 722.303 transmission.  So, here is my question, in order to
get to the old metal ring which I have been hearing is very important to
replace, there is a seal of some sort that goes between the metal ring and
the flat part of the piston itself.  I guess I missed seeing it in any of
the pictures I have seen of this repair being done, and there was no mention
of it made on any of the sites I have seen.  This little seal is a bear to
get out, and I have no idea what the part number is to replace it because it
didn't come out in one piece.  Does anybody have any idea what the Mercedes
part number is for this little rubber seal?  I'm going to need to get to the
dealer to get it, and they don't know what I'm talking about.  I suspect
that they would rather sell me a new tranny and charge me labor for that job
than sell me the parts I need.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Chris
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Re: [MBZ] Registration cost...

2007-06-12 Thread Chris Lane

In Missouri we have to pay a sales tax, based on the sale price of the
vehicle when it is purchased.  Then pay the registration fee, which is
roughly $50/2 years.  Also, in order to register you must have a state
inspection, and a state emissions inspection.  Those are different fees, $19
for safety, and $24 for emissions.  After that we have to pay an anual
personal property tax, based on some arbitrary valuation.  That goes down as
the vehicle ages, and you have to bring a copy of the reciepts to the DMV,
in order to register.
This time I was exempt from the emissions because I bought a diesel, but had
I bought a gasser the same age I would have had to get it done.  There is a
cutoff at some point, but I don't know where.

On 6/12/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> I have never heard of paying a tax on a used vehicle that is purchased
> from
> a private owner. Are you guys saying that when you take your paperwork
> in to
> the registration place to register your new, used, car for the first
> time,
> you are charged a tax of potentially hundreds of dollars?

Absolutely.  Welcome to WA.  (And a whole lotta other states.)
At least they repealed the excise tax, which was, in essence,
a sales tax every year based on the putative value of the car.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Road Bicycling and Walking Vs. Drivers_was Fuel mileage

2007-05-29 Thread Chris Lane

I'm really sorry for your loss.
I have ridden a bicycle for commutes, and day to day running around.  It can
get really scary.  Drivers assume that they have the right of way.  Even
when a bicycle rider is doing the right thing there are always people that
don't want to allow you to share the road.  Granted, I'm slower in most
cases than the rest of traffic, but I try to keep to the right as much as
possible.  There are times when I have to be in traffic lanes, parked cars
are a huge danger.  Drivers in certain areas will not let me get around a
car parked on
the shoulder where I try to ride as much as possible.  I certainly
don't want to try doing 20+ mph on the sidewalk.  Would it hurt that
much to tap your brakes and let me get around the car?
Add in cell phones, crying kids in a minivan or SUV, or other inattentive
drivers, and you have a very dangerous way to get to work.  Also consider
that the far right of the road can often be a really bad place to be,
debris, trash, gravel, dry leaves, downed tree limbs, all collect there and
add to the dangers.  Motorcycle riders are generally cool, as they share
many of the same dangers.  I do try to follow traffic laws, although I have
been known to blow through stop signs if I time it right and end up at the
intersection at the same time as a car that is starting to go from the stop.


On 5/29/07, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


OH my goodness, man. I don't know what to say either. I think about the
possibility every time I ride. We are at a trememdous disadvantage.

Brian


On 5/29/07, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> My wife passed away at the beginning of this month while she was road
> bicycling...
>
> She was riding home from work in Huntsville (she co-ops there, I'm in
> Starkville at the moment) with a friend.  Its a 15 mile ride into work
> and there have been a group of people doing it for about three years now
> without incident.  They take a bunch of winding two lane roads that
> avoid as many of the major intersections and traffic as possible.  They
> all wear helmets.  They were riding basically on the white line to let
> the few cars they did see have plenty of room.  So they did everything
> right to be good safe bicyclists and avoid getting in a wreck.
> Accidents still happen though because for some reason (hitting the tire
> of the guy in front, hitting a rock in the road or something) Jenn lost
> control of her bike and veered into oncoming traffic.  The car did her
> absolute best to avoid Jenn...  it was the 4th car they had seen on
> their 8 or so miles on the road.
>
> No matter how safe you try to make things accidents still happen.  Just
> do the best that you can and what your comfortable with.
>
> http://www.bradfordokeefe.com/obituaries/view_obit.php?id=2131
>
> John
>
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Re: [MBZ] torque wrench shopping

2007-05-29 Thread Chris Lane

The other day I was at my mom's house, in the garage, and looked though some
of my dad's old tools.  I found a Proto micrometer style tourque wrench, but
I know nothing about it beyond that.  Is this a good brand?  How can I check
it to make sure its still good, what do I need to know.  I know it hasn't
been touched in over 10 years, but it looks like its in good shape.  It is
in US and metric.

On 5/28/07, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Do you ever have your torque wrench's re-calibrated? Where?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: "Robert & Tara Ludwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2007 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] torque wrench shopping


> I've got a KD  clicker that I've been using for a few years now that I
> really like. I think it was around $130 new on sale( rumor was at the
> time that they came out of the same factory as snap ons torque wrenches
).
> I have a craftsman electronic torque meter that attaches to a 1/2"
> socket, very accurate, but awkward  to use, basically only good when
> working an engine on the stand., and I have an HF cheapie 1/4 " drive
> job to keep all those little 6mm bolts about right.
>
> I don't know about split beams, but on any clicker , keep in mind when
> using in temperature extremes, the readings won't be accurate. If it's
> real cold out, they will click late ( too tight, if it get's cold
> enough, tight enough to get you in trouble ) and if it's real hot out,
> they will click too early ( too loose). If I have to work outside in
> temperature extremes, I always leave the torque wrench inside for a
> while to get it to room temp, then work in short spurts to keep things
> even( this is after finding out that hard way what happens if you don't
).
>
> -Robert
>
>
> Luther wrote:
>> Which style?  Dial, micrometer click, or split-beam?  What brands?
>> Snap-On,
>> Armstrong, Precision Instruments, Craftsman, or others?
>>
>> I'm going to be doing the head on my SDL and I'd like to have a high
>> quality
>> 1/2" 150-200 Newton-Meter torque wrench.   Suggestions, experience, and
>> 2nd
>> hand knowledge welcome.  TIA all.
>>
>>
>
>
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>


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Re: [MBZ] Indy CL - 1980 300SD - $1100

2007-05-27 Thread Chris Lane

The really simple thing that would make the heater not work, or at least
just blow cold air it the thermostat being stuck open.  Easy fix at least in
a 126, I would imagine its pretty similar in a 116

On 5/26/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:




Ed Booher wrote:
>
> Thinking about taking a look at this 116. The "heater does not work"
catches
> my eye as extremely odd. More expensive to fix heater core than car is
> worth?

Probably a seized Chrysler climate control servo.
I think new servos can still be had from mbz classic for less than the
asking
price on the car. Rusty had some for about $600 a couple of years ago
IIRC.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Off Topic Hybrids

2007-05-21 Thread Chris Lane

The Insight actually did get better mileage on the highway.  The Prius does
not.  I don't know about any of the others, because I think they have
stopped really using hybrid technology to get better mileage.  They seem to
be leaning more toward a higher performance out of a smaller engine
direction now.  My brother has a 1999 or 2000 Insight and does get roughly
70 mpg on the highway without really doing anything.
I almost wonder how tough it would be to buy the electronic/computer
portions of a hybrid and pop it into my 300SD.  I've certainly got room in
the trunk for the batteries.  Upgrade the brakes to use the regenerative
braking, and drive.  I'm sure it would be costly and more difficult than I
could actually do, so I won't.
Chris

On 5/19/07, Ralph Morton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



--- LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> As far as the cost of barrery replacement, take a
> look at
>
http://hybridcars.about.com/od/hybridcarfaq/f/batterycost.htm
> which shows the batteries may cost $3000 and up to
> replace.
>
> As far as mpg's are concerned, I've heard and read
> the same as Kaleb is
> saying - hybrids excel at stop & go city driving.
> Steady highway driving is
> better in a diesel but it doesn't get much press
> because of the wide-spread
> prejudice against diesels.  As most on this list
> know, diesels get 25 to 30%
> better mileage than equivilent vehicles.  If
> everyone converted to diesels
> we'd cut our need for oil by that same 25 - 30%.
> Of course, that's
> unlikely but it will help as more car companies
> bring diesels into the US.
> I believe Honda and Toyota are preparing to start
> selling them.
>
> BTW, did you know diesel is the primary  product in
> refining oil?  Back in
> the late 1800's gasoline was a by-product that had
> few uses until internal
> combustion engines were perfected.


They had one of the veeps from Chevy on "Wait, Wait,
Don't Tell Me!" doing the "Not My Job" part today, and
he was talking about a concept car that Chevy plans on
bringing to market shortly called the "Volt."  It will
have roughly 40 mile range on batteries, and a small
internal combustion engine that will take over after
that.

Granted, they're looking at a commuter style vehicle,
as most of the hybrids are intended to be, but it
sounds interesting.

RM







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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Parts including 4 spd manny for sale no Affiliation

2007-05-20 Thread Chris Lane

I'm just wondering how difficult it would be to put the manual transmission
into my 300SD.  It sounds like it has everything I need, except the longer
driveshaft, which I could probably dig up in a junkyard.  I'm wondering if
it would work at all, or would the considerable increase in weight kill that
tranny?
Chris

On 5/20/07, Redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Looks like something Jim Cathey needs to scoop up with the Mog.

On May 19, 2007, at 7:09 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote:

> Don't know if this got through last night or not. It's a craigslist
> ad with
> some parts, including a 4 speed.
>
> http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/332710870.html
>
> Brian
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: May 18, 2007 11:18 PM
> Subject: Parts including 4 spd manny for sale no Affiliation
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
>
> http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/332710870.html
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] 83 TD...Tranny quit...HELP!!!!

2007-05-10 Thread Chris Lane

If I'm correct in my diagnosis of my 300SD having a bad B2 piston, it never
nade any strange noises.  It started to flare between first and second, and
then suddenly it feels like you have the clutch halfway to the floor on a
stick shift.  I have not had time to get under the car, and with my lack of
experience working on them I'm a little hesitant to just unbolt the tranny
and give it a shot.
I don't have a clue what could be wrong with your car, but I don't think its
a b2.  My reverse works great, second seems ok, 3 and 4 are just fine.


On 5/10/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


>   So if I do find I need to pull the trans out is there anything that
> makes
> this job any different from a typical American RWD drive car?

Dunno.  You need several feet of socket extension and a knuckle
joint in order to take out the top bolts.  The wrench ends up back
by the tailshaft.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] a freak of nature

2007-05-06 Thread Chris Lane

Diesel here has been at $2.89 for a little while.
Gas here was $3.29 yesterday for regular unleaded.
Apparently, what is going on is that the EPA has set specific gasoline
blends to be used in specific places.  So, for St. Louis we have one
refinery that is making all of our gas, and it doesn't matter where you are
buying it.

I need to get the 300SD working again.


On 5/6/07, Luther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


See my other email about my legal $0.83/gal biodiesel :)


--
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (271,xxx mi) needs head
'83 300SD (245 kmi) For Sale
'82 300CD (166 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) getting '85 donor engine
'85 300D (280,176) parts car-sans engine


Quoting "Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>:

> So gas went up to 2.89 here, diesel was 2.63.  This morning I see
> diesel went DOWN to 2.61.  Very strange.  I sure need to get that 100
> gal tank installed in the back of my truck so I can have a supply
> when its cheaper.


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Re: [MBZ] Biodiesel from animal fats

2007-04-17 Thread Chris Lane

It seems like that woulc be a great idea, except for the gell point of
animal fats being higher than that of plant based fats.  Lard, chicken fat,
and tallow are all solid at room temperature and higher.  Ghee which is
basicly clarified butter, is also solid at room temperature.  Olive oil,
rapeseed, and most other vegetable fats are liquid to much lower
temperatures.  This could limit the usefulness of biodiesel made from these
fats to warmer climates/summertime use only.  On the other hand, bacon
flavored biodiesel exhaust!  Yummy!
Chris

On 4/17/07, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Rich thought:

"Next they will be catching McDonalds, Denny's, and KFC customers coming
out the doors...that could solve our energy issues right there."

Lends a whole new meaning to "hauling ass".

Bob R.




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Re: [MBZ] Got a high mile car?

2007-04-03 Thread Chris Lane

My odometer stopped before I bought the car.  But it stopped at 310,930
miles, I think, I'm not in it right now.  I know I have put at least a few
thousand more on it.
Chris

On 4/2/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


331k Km is still a baby!  Convert that to miles  Thats about what I go
looking for when i want a new car. 200k or so.  But congrats, and I am
sure
you will soon have another 100 or 200k km on it.

Somebody has to know somebody with 400k or a million or two miles on
it.  Does not have to be an MB.

Loren

At 11:12 PM 4/2/2007, you wrote:
>Aww, too bad it isn't  KMS.  :-)
>
>Ed
>'88 300E
>331,000 kms
>
>On 02/04/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Seems that the NY Times has a writer wanting to do an article on high
mile
> > cars.  If you have a car with over 300k miles, please let me
know.  I'll
> > pass the info on to the Times reporter, so he can talk to you.
> >
> > No, I have not changed my opinion,  I don't/won't read the NY
Times.  It
> > is
> > a propaganda rag.  But, I will help out the guy.
> >
> >
> > Loren
> >
> >
> > Loren Faeth
> >
> >
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Loren Faeth


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[MBZ] B2 piston location

2007-03-28 Thread Chris Lane

So after all of the research I have done and questions I have asked I have
my problem fairly narrowed down to the B2 piston in my transmission.  I have
an 82 300SD.  I just the other day noticed a large amount of tranny fluid on
my driveway.  Since the slab the car sits on is not level, I can kinda see
where the stain originates from.  It looks like the fluid is coming from the
rear of the passenger side of the transmission pan.  I know that the B2
piston can leak, and the symptoms I have are certainly B2 symptoms, just
trying to know if I have something else to worry about before I start
pulling this thing apart.  I know, there is no way to know without you
seeing it.  So I'm just wondering if that is the right spot for fluid loss
with the B2.

Then today I also found a ring which looked like it was made out of some
sort of rubber, and about 2 inches across by 3/8" tall.  I didn't notice it
before, but I also hadn't really looked either.  It was chewed up on one
side.  Also, although it could have been a gasket of some sort, I guess;
there was nothing that looked like it would have come out with it.  This
ring BTW, has a rounded V shape, but and this is the strange part, the V
opened to the outside of the ring.  Due to my neighborhood, and the location
of my carport, this could be some crap that some ignorant neighbor tossed up
there, so if it doesn't seem like it could come from anything around the
transmission don't sweat it.

Thanks,
Chris


Re: [MBZ] Transmission Question

2007-03-16 Thread Chris Lane

So this would lead me to wonder if I could also get almost any transmission
from a w126 to work in my 82 300SD as well?  I'm sure that the auto in a
w123 300D will.  Of course what I would like is to replace the
atomatic with a 5 speed manual.  Are there any that would work, that I could
find, and could afford, and be able to just essentially bolt in?  I realize
there are issues as far as pedal setups, and the actual linkage.

On 3/15/07, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Yes, it will.  There are very slight differences in the valve body, but
it will work just fine.

Roger Conlon wrote:

> Hello:
>
> Well a transmission from a 89 420SEL be a bolt in replacement for
> a trans in a 88 560SEL.
>
> RC
>
> _
> Play Flexicon: the crossword game that feeds your brain. PLAY now for
> FREE.
http://zone.msn.com/en/flexicon/default.htm?icid=flexicon_hmtagline
>
>
>
> 
>
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] power steering humming

2007-03-12 Thread Chris Lane

My 300SD did that when I would turn my wheels as I backed out of the
driveway.  It seemed to get better as the car warmed up.  Check your fluid
level.  Mine was low when it did this.  I'm not sure where mine is leaking
from, but I have been periodically checking the level and topping it off.
Chris

On 3/11/07, M.Afzaal.Khan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hi all the power steering on the  126/300SE has a moaning/humming  sound
in the morning ,and goes away as it warms up.
last year I had replaced the fluid and the filter so it not old fluid.
input will be appreciated.
mak
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Re: [MBZ] 82 300SD transmission troubles

2007-03-10 Thread Chris Lane

"It's not normal, it's a sign of wear. They don't do it when they are
new(er)."
So I could be ok, since drive generally engaged pretty quickly before
this thing started?  Reverse still does.
I don't have a lot to compare it with, since I have really only driven
one other car with an automatic transmission.
Chris

On 3/9/07, Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


on 3/9/07 11:24, Allan Streib at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I don't quite understand the mechanics of this, no other automatic in
> any other make I've owned has ever had this delay going into reverse
> -- I don't know what the purpose of it is or why MB built their
> transmissions this way.

It's not normal, it's a sign of wear. They don't do it when they are
new(er).

Mac


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Re: [MBZ] 82 300SD transmission troubles

2007-03-09 Thread Chris Lane

I'm pretty sure that I'm just going to change the B2, and then go to the
synthetic ATF, pop in a new filter and gasket, and be done.  I'm not what I
would call mechanically inclined, but I think I can figure this out.  It
also sounds like there is more room in the SD than in the D.
If you can send teh write up, Allen that would be great.
Chris

On 3/9/07, Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


"Chris Lane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:

> The things I have been told to do are, change the filter, and change
> the fluid to synthetic, change the B2 piston, or replace the
> transmission (the dealer's $5000 solution).

Sounds reasonable.  The symptoms you describe are similar to what I
had in my '83 300D as the B2 was failing.  Synthetic (Mobil 1) ATF
seemed to help for a while, but then one day -- massive slippage in
first gear.  If you're already experiencing that, an M1 change might
be a waste of money, because you have to drain the fluid for the B2
repair anyway.

If you are mechanically inclined, the B2 repair is not that bad.  I
did mine without pulling the transmission; a tight squeeze but it is
possible.  I posted a writeup of my repair to the old Diesel (mbz.org)
list a couple of years ago, if you want I can try to find it and send
it to you.

Otherwise, if you can find an indy to do it, it would certainly be
cheaper than a new transmission.  And if he pulls the B2 piston and
it's NOT broken into pieces, you know right then that you have other
problems.

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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[MBZ] 82 300SD transmission troubles

2007-03-09 Thread Chris Lane

I'm glad to find another group online to help me with my Benz.  It has been
an adventure.
My problem is that when I put the car in a forward gear, it doesn't want to
actually hold onto first gear.  If I use very minimal pressure on the
accelerator pedal it is fine, but if I actually push down the car seems like
it slips partway out of
gear.  It actually reminds me of if you hold the clutch to the point
where it just starts to engage on a manual transmission car.
It will eventually get up to speed, and once I get to second gear it is
fine.  Third and fourth seem to be just fine, also.  Reverse actually seems
better than it was before.  It initially did this when it was about 5
degrees outside, and not having a garage I have been letting the car sit,
just start it up, and warm up every week.  I checked the fluid level, and it
was low, so I added some, but it still does the same thing, at least in my
carport.  The things I have been told to do are, change the filter, and
change the fluid to synthetic, change the B2 piston, or replace the
transmission (the dealer's $5000 solution).
Anyway, any thought would be welcomed.
Thanks
Chris

BTW
82 800SD 31+ miles odometer stopped, don't know when.