Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-15 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Lesson learned if I ever need to take that manifold off again, I need to pull 
it back just far enough to unplug that connector, before lifting it up and out.

Probably would have been described in the shop manual if I had one, though 
sometimes they just say something like "unbolt and remove the manifold"



On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, at 13:37, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
> On Thu, 15 Feb 2024 13:17:17 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
>> Well finally got this done. Waited for a warm(er) day, soldered up all
>> the connectors, which was more tedious than I had expected. Really glad
>> I was able to get the wiring up to the top of the engine bay it would
>> have been a real bear otherwise. That connection is totally hidden
>> behind the manifold when it's in place, it took me about 5 minutes of
>> blind work with my fingertips to get the plug inserted. Got everything
>> back in place, started up, runs smoothly, no codes.
>
> Congratulations!
>
>
>> Only issue is the MAP sensor connection, the locking tab has snapped
>> off and it doesn't want to stay plugged in. I have a zip tie around it
>> hopefully that will keep it together.
>
> May it do so!
>
>
> Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-15 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Thu, 15 Feb 2024 13:17:17 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Well finally got this done. Waited for a warm(er) day, soldered up all
> the connectors, which was more tedious than I had expected. Really glad
> I was able to get the wiring up to the top of the engine bay it would
> have been a real bear otherwise. That connection is totally hidden
> behind the manifold when it's in place, it took me about 5 minutes of
> blind work with my fingertips to get the plug inserted. Got everything
> back in place, started up, runs smoothly, no codes.

Congratulations!


> Only issue is the MAP sensor connection, the locking tab has snapped
> off and it doesn't want to stay plugged in. I have a zip tie around it
> hopefully that will keep it together.

May it do so!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-15 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Well finally got this done. Waited for a warm(er) day, soldered up all the 
connectors, which was more tedious than I had expected. Really glad I was able 
to get the wiring up to the top of the engine bay it would have been a real 
bear otherwise. That connection is totally hidden behind the manifold when it's 
in place, it took me about 5 minutes of blind work with my fingertips to get 
the plug inserted. Got everything back in place, started up, runs smoothly, no 
codes.

Only issue is the MAP sensor connection, the locking tab has snapped off and it 
doesn't want to stay plugged in. I have a zip tie around it hopefully that will 
keep it together.


On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 17:58, Allan Streib wrote:
> 2009 XC90. Bought it only because I knew the seller and he had cared 
> for it meticulously. It needed rear wheel bearings, he didn't want to 
> spend the money, and he gave me a good deal.
>
> It's been a good car overall. Comfortable, well made, pretty easy to 
> work on overall. It's a two wheel drive model, which in this car is 
> front-wheel drive. The engine is a 3.2 liter inline 6, basically a Ford 
> engine I think, Ford owned Volvo until 2010. Transmission is by Aisin. 
> It tows our little pop-up camper fine.
>
> It's probably comparable to an ML320, though I've never owned one of those.
>
> Just under 200k on it now. I've owned it since 2018.
>
> I was able to unclip the wiring harness in a few other places and raise 
> it up enough so that I can work on it in a neutral standing position. 
> That is going to help a lot. Now I can't find my solder, may have to 
> buy some. Going to finish this up tomorrow.
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 17:02, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
>> I know you have referred to the Volvo previously, but I don't recall all 
>> of it. What year, and model is it, what mileage on it, and has it been a 
>> good car?
>>
>> Randy
>>
>>
>> On 11/02/2024 3:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
>>> I found a wiring diagram, and I've been able to work out how to disassemble 
>>> the connector plug. The individual connectors were crimped on to the wires. 
>>> The crimp that was on the insulated part of the wire I can reopen, but the 
>>> crimp that actually made the connection is too flattened. I'm thinking I 
>>> can either try to solder the wires directly back on to the connectors, or 
>>> solder on some pigtails, and then solder those to the original harness with 
>>> heat-shrink tubing to seal the connections. Then reassemble the plug.
>>>
>>> This is not going to be fun, as I'll have to work bent over and reaching 
>>> about halfway down in the space between the engine and radiator. Will need 
>>> some way to hold things together while I solder -- alligator clips I 
>>> suppose.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 15:23, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
 Well I found the problem and it's the ham-fisted mechanic who was
 working on the car (that's me).

 The intake manifold runs down between the engine and the radiator and
 converges at the throttle body which is near the bottom of the
 radiator. Hard to see around it and hard to reach it from above or
 below. I overlooked a connector on the bottom of the throtle body
 housing and when I pulled the assembly up and out it just ripped the
 wires out.

 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AT5c-txDnCydPNf94TJS4qT39LRtkrYW/view?usp=sharing

 Now I have to find a wiring diagram somewhere and figure out how to
 reconnect the plug.

 https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gMet72dITNAl66OVuceYOshLc3DMXobN/view?usp=sharing


>>
>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-11 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
2009 XC90. Bought it only because I knew the seller and he had cared for it 
meticulously. It needed rear wheel bearings, he didn't want to spend the money, 
and he gave me a good deal.

It's been a good car overall. Comfortable, well made, pretty easy to work on 
overall. It's a two wheel drive model, which in this car is front-wheel drive. 
The engine is a 3.2 liter inline 6, basically a Ford engine I think, Ford owned 
Volvo until 2010. Transmission is by Aisin. It tows our little pop-up camper 
fine.

It's probably comparable to an ML320, though I've never owned one of those.

Just under 200k on it now. I've owned it since 2018.

I was able to unclip the wiring harness in a few other places and raise it up 
enough so that I can work on it in a neutral standing position. That is going 
to help a lot. Now I can't find my solder, may have to buy some. Going to 
finish this up tomorrow.


On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 17:02, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:
> I know you have referred to the Volvo previously, but I don't recall all 
> of it. What year, and model is it, what mileage on it, and has it been a 
> good car?
>
> Randy
>
>
> On 11/02/2024 3:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
>> I found a wiring diagram, and I've been able to work out how to disassemble 
>> the connector plug. The individual connectors were crimped on to the wires. 
>> The crimp that was on the insulated part of the wire I can reopen, but the 
>> crimp that actually made the connection is too flattened. I'm thinking I can 
>> either try to solder the wires directly back on to the connectors, or solder 
>> on some pigtails, and then solder those to the original harness with 
>> heat-shrink tubing to seal the connections. Then reassemble the plug.
>>
>> This is not going to be fun, as I'll have to work bent over and reaching 
>> about halfway down in the space between the engine and radiator. Will need 
>> some way to hold things together while I solder -- alligator clips I suppose.
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 15:23, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
>>> Well I found the problem and it's the ham-fisted mechanic who was
>>> working on the car (that's me).
>>>
>>> The intake manifold runs down between the engine and the radiator and
>>> converges at the throttle body which is near the bottom of the
>>> radiator. Hard to see around it and hard to reach it from above or
>>> below. I overlooked a connector on the bottom of the throtle body
>>> housing and when I pulled the assembly up and out it just ripped the
>>> wires out.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AT5c-txDnCydPNf94TJS4qT39LRtkrYW/view?usp=sharing
>>>
>>> Now I have to find a wiring diagram somewhere and figure out how to
>>> reconnect the plug.
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gMet72dITNAl66OVuceYOshLc3DMXobN/view?usp=sharing
>>>
>>>
>
>
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-11 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
I know you have referred to the Volvo previously, but I don't recall all 
of it. What year, and model is it, what mileage on it, and has it been a 
good car?


Randy


On 11/02/2024 3:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

I found a wiring diagram, and I've been able to work out how to disassemble the 
connector plug. The individual connectors were crimped on to the wires. The 
crimp that was on the insulated part of the wire I can reopen, but the crimp 
that actually made the connection is too flattened. I'm thinking I can either 
try to solder the wires directly back on to the connectors, or solder on some 
pigtails, and then solder those to the original harness with heat-shrink tubing 
to seal the connections. Then reassemble the plug.

This is not going to be fun, as I'll have to work bent over and reaching about 
halfway down in the space between the engine and radiator. Will need some way 
to hold things together while I solder -- alligator clips I suppose.


On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 15:23, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

Well I found the problem and it's the ham-fisted mechanic who was
working on the car (that's me).

The intake manifold runs down between the engine and the radiator and
converges at the throttle body which is near the bottom of the
radiator. Hard to see around it and hard to reach it from above or
below. I overlooked a connector on the bottom of the throtle body
housing and when I pulled the assembly up and out it just ripped the
wires out.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AT5c-txDnCydPNf94TJS4qT39LRtkrYW/view?usp=sharing

Now I have to find a wiring diagram somewhere and figure out how to
reconnect the plug.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gMet72dITNAl66OVuceYOshLc3DMXobN/view?usp=sharing





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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-11 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes
When you are bent over working on this, just keep thinking about the 
hourly rate the shop would be charging you, probably including  to 
repair this, even if they, like you, had inadvertently created the problem.


Randy


On 11/02/2024 3:57 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

I found a wiring diagram, and I've been able to work out how to disassemble the 
connector plug. The individual connectors were crimped on to the wires. The 
crimp that was on the insulated part of the wire I can reopen, but the crimp 
that actually made the connection is too flattened. I'm thinking I can either 
try to solder the wires directly back on to the connectors, or solder on some 
pigtails, and then solder those to the original harness with heat-shrink tubing 
to seal the connections. Then reassemble the plug.

This is not going to be fun, as I'll have to work bent over and reaching about 
halfway down in the space between the engine and radiator. Will need some way 
to hold things together while I solder -- alligator clips I suppose.


On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 15:23, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

Well I found the problem and it's the ham-fisted mechanic who was
working on the car (that's me).

The intake manifold runs down between the engine and the radiator and
converges at the throttle body which is near the bottom of the
radiator. Hard to see around it and hard to reach it from above or
below. I overlooked a connector on the bottom of the throtle body
housing and when I pulled the assembly up and out it just ripped the
wires out.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AT5c-txDnCydPNf94TJS4qT39LRtkrYW/view?usp=sharing

Now I have to find a wiring diagram somewhere and figure out how to
reconnect the plug.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gMet72dITNAl66OVuceYOshLc3DMXobN/view?usp=sharing





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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-11 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
I found a wiring diagram, and I've been able to work out how to disassemble the 
connector plug. The individual connectors were crimped on to the wires. The 
crimp that was on the insulated part of the wire I can reopen, but the crimp 
that actually made the connection is too flattened. I'm thinking I can either 
try to solder the wires directly back on to the connectors, or solder on some 
pigtails, and then solder those to the original harness with heat-shrink tubing 
to seal the connections. Then reassemble the plug.

This is not going to be fun, as I'll have to work bent over and reaching about 
halfway down in the space between the engine and radiator. Will need some way 
to hold things together while I solder -- alligator clips I suppose.


On Sun, Feb 11, 2024, at 15:23, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
> Well I found the problem and it's the ham-fisted mechanic who was 
> working on the car (that's me).
>
> The intake manifold runs down between the engine and the radiator and 
> converges at the throttle body which is near the bottom of the 
> radiator. Hard to see around it and hard to reach it from above or 
> below. I overlooked a connector on the bottom of the throtle body 
> housing and when I pulled the assembly up and out it just ripped the 
> wires out.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AT5c-txDnCydPNf94TJS4qT39LRtkrYW/view?usp=sharing
>
> Now I have to find a wiring diagram somewhere and figure out how to 
> reconnect the plug.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gMet72dITNAl66OVuceYOshLc3DMXobN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-11 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Well I found the problem and it's the ham-fisted mechanic who was working on 
the car (that's me).

The intake manifold runs down between the engine and the radiator and converges 
at the throttle body which is near the bottom of the radiator. Hard to see 
around it and hard to reach it from above or below. I overlooked a connector on 
the bottom of the throtle body housing and when I pulled the assembly up and 
out it just ripped the wires out.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AT5c-txDnCydPNf94TJS4qT39LRtkrYW/view?usp=sharing

Now I have to find a wiring diagram somewhere and figure out how to reconnect 
the plug.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gMet72dITNAl66OVuceYOshLc3DMXobN/view?usp=sharing


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-09 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Guess it's possible. I had the battery ground post disconnected the whole time 
I was working though, because I knew I would be unplugging stuff and removing 
the alternator.

The plug for the MAP sensor had the locking tab snap off. I used a zip-tie to 
secure it when I put it back but maybe it's not making good contact.


On Fri, Feb 9, 2024, at 21:46, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:
> Fuses?
>
> --FT
> Sent from iFōn
>
>> On Feb 9, 2024, at 8:52 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Well got all the parts and got it back together. Now running very poorly, 
>> codes for MAP sensor and Throttle Position sensor. Weird. Had to unplug 
>> several electrical connectors off of the intake manifold/throttle body (it 
>> all comes off as one assembly) but everything seemed to connect back up OK. 
>> Will mess with it some more tomorrow.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Feb 5, 2024, at 22:46, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
>>> Didn't end up being too bad. Took maybe an hour to get the intake
>>> manifold out, could do it faster a second time. Once that was out
>>> removing the alternator was easy.
>>> 
>>> Took  a few photos, this one shows the gear-like toothed wheel that
>>> drives the alternator via a rubber coupler (alternator has already been
>>> removed). The bolt in the center had backed out so it just spun freely.
>>> There's no lock washer or thread locker used on that bolt for some
>>> reason, I think I will use Locktite when I reinstall it.
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kiPAceYigBC9HKw_rFi2tDFg7xShR6Wj/view?usp=sharing
>>> 
>>> Here's the back side of that toothed drive wheel, some cracks and a bit
>>> chewed up from wobbling loose so I'm going to replace that.
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hQFEgoI17JXNARdU8ooO_Tck-c7THZoj/view?usp=sharing
>>> 
>>> The teeth on that wheel fit into the rubber coupler, which drives a
>>> similar toothed wheel on the alternator. That rubber coupler seems in
>>> good condition so thinking I'll keep it. New one is $80 (!).  The
>>> alternator looks rather old but turns smoothly and replacing it with a
>>> Bosch reman would add about $340 to the repair cost. It's not a
>>> terrible job to get in there now that I've done it once, so I might
>>> just keep it and see how much more life I get out of it. Or maybe take
>>> it to AutoZone and have them test it.
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fZVDFkVCrg25YX5ijdMniZt53vWnek0N/view?usp=sharing
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On Sun, Feb 4, 2024, at 16:02, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
 On Sun, 04 Feb 2024 15:28:08 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
  wrote:
 
> To get at the alternator and coupling, the intake manifold has to come
> off.
 
 You're kidding!
 
 
> So I'm going to look into that job. Sounds like it might be a bit of a
> PITA. Suppose I should just go ahead and replace the alternator
> prememptively while I'm in there?
 
 If it is quite a pain, I would seriously think about replacing it.
 
 
 Craig
 
>>> 
>>> ___
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>>> 
>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
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>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-09 Thread Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes
Fuses?

--FT
Sent from iFōn

> On Feb 9, 2024, at 8:52 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Well got all the parts and got it back together. Now running very poorly, 
> codes for MAP sensor and Throttle Position sensor. Weird. Had to unplug 
> several electrical connectors off of the intake manifold/throttle body (it 
> all comes off as one assembly) but everything seemed to connect back up OK. 
> Will mess with it some more tomorrow.
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 5, 2024, at 22:46, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
>> Didn't end up being too bad. Took maybe an hour to get the intake
>> manifold out, could do it faster a second time. Once that was out
>> removing the alternator was easy.
>> 
>> Took  a few photos, this one shows the gear-like toothed wheel that
>> drives the alternator via a rubber coupler (alternator has already been
>> removed). The bolt in the center had backed out so it just spun freely.
>> There's no lock washer or thread locker used on that bolt for some
>> reason, I think I will use Locktite when I reinstall it.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kiPAceYigBC9HKw_rFi2tDFg7xShR6Wj/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>> Here's the back side of that toothed drive wheel, some cracks and a bit
>> chewed up from wobbling loose so I'm going to replace that.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hQFEgoI17JXNARdU8ooO_Tck-c7THZoj/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>> The teeth on that wheel fit into the rubber coupler, which drives a
>> similar toothed wheel on the alternator. That rubber coupler seems in
>> good condition so thinking I'll keep it. New one is $80 (!).  The
>> alternator looks rather old but turns smoothly and replacing it with a
>> Bosch reman would add about $340 to the repair cost. It's not a
>> terrible job to get in there now that I've done it once, so I might
>> just keep it and see how much more life I get out of it. Or maybe take
>> it to AutoZone and have them test it.
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fZVDFkVCrg25YX5ijdMniZt53vWnek0N/view?usp=sharing
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sun, Feb 4, 2024, at 16:02, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
>>> On Sun, 04 Feb 2024 15:28:08 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
 To get at the alternator and coupling, the intake manifold has to come
 off.
>>> 
>>> You're kidding!
>>> 
>>> 
 So I'm going to look into that job. Sounds like it might be a bit of a
 PITA. Suppose I should just go ahead and replace the alternator
 prememptively while I'm in there?
>>> 
>>> If it is quite a pain, I would seriously think about replacing it.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Craig
>>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-09 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Well got all the parts and got it back together. Now running very poorly, codes 
for MAP sensor and Throttle Position sensor. Weird. Had to unplug several 
electrical connectors off of the intake manifold/throttle body (it all comes 
off as one assembly) but everything seemed to connect back up OK. Will mess 
with it some more tomorrow.


On Mon, Feb 5, 2024, at 22:46, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:
> Didn't end up being too bad. Took maybe an hour to get the intake 
> manifold out, could do it faster a second time. Once that was out 
> removing the alternator was easy.
>
> Took  a few photos, this one shows the gear-like toothed wheel that 
> drives the alternator via a rubber coupler (alternator has already been 
> removed). The bolt in the center had backed out so it just spun freely. 
> There's no lock washer or thread locker used on that bolt for some 
> reason, I think I will use Locktite when I reinstall it.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kiPAceYigBC9HKw_rFi2tDFg7xShR6Wj/view?usp=sharing
>
> Here's the back side of that toothed drive wheel, some cracks and a bit 
> chewed up from wobbling loose so I'm going to replace that.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hQFEgoI17JXNARdU8ooO_Tck-c7THZoj/view?usp=sharing
>
> The teeth on that wheel fit into the rubber coupler, which drives a 
> similar toothed wheel on the alternator. That rubber coupler seems in 
> good condition so thinking I'll keep it. New one is $80 (!).  The 
> alternator looks rather old but turns smoothly and replacing it with a 
> Bosch reman would add about $340 to the repair cost. It's not a 
> terrible job to get in there now that I've done it once, so I might 
> just keep it and see how much more life I get out of it. Or maybe take 
> it to AutoZone and have them test it.
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fZVDFkVCrg25YX5ijdMniZt53vWnek0N/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> On Sun, Feb 4, 2024, at 16:02, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
>> On Sun, 04 Feb 2024 15:28:08 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>>  wrote:
>>
>>> To get at the alternator and coupling, the intake manifold has to come
>>> off.
>>
>> You're kidding!
>>
>>
>>> So I'm going to look into that job. Sounds like it might be a bit of a
>>> PITA. Suppose I should just go ahead and replace the alternator
>>> prememptively while I'm in there?
>>
>> If it is quite a pain, I would seriously think about replacing it.
>>
>>
>> Craig
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-05 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Didn't end up being too bad. Took maybe an hour to get the intake manifold out, 
could do it faster a second time. Once that was out removing the alternator was 
easy.

Took  a few photos, this one shows the gear-like toothed wheel that drives the 
alternator via a rubber coupler (alternator has already been removed). The bolt 
in the center had backed out so it just spun freely. There's no lock washer or 
thread locker used on that bolt for some reason, I think I will use Locktite 
when I reinstall it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kiPAceYigBC9HKw_rFi2tDFg7xShR6Wj/view?usp=sharing

Here's the back side of that toothed drive wheel, some cracks and a bit chewed 
up from wobbling loose so I'm going to replace that.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hQFEgoI17JXNARdU8ooO_Tck-c7THZoj/view?usp=sharing

The teeth on that wheel fit into the rubber coupler, which drives a similar 
toothed wheel on the alternator. That rubber coupler seems in good condition so 
thinking I'll keep it. New one is $80 (!).  The alternator looks rather old but 
turns smoothly and replacing it with a Bosch reman would add about $340 to the 
repair cost. It's not a terrible job to get in there now that I've done it 
once, so I might just keep it and see how much more life I get out of it. Or 
maybe take it to AutoZone and have them test it.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fZVDFkVCrg25YX5ijdMniZt53vWnek0N/view?usp=sharing



On Sun, Feb 4, 2024, at 16:02, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
> On Sun, 04 Feb 2024 15:28:08 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
>> To get at the alternator and coupling, the intake manifold has to come
>> off.
>
> You're kidding!
>
>
>> So I'm going to look into that job. Sounds like it might be a bit of a
>> PITA. Suppose I should just go ahead and replace the alternator
>> prememptively while I'm in there?
>
> If it is quite a pain, I would seriously think about replacing it.
>
>
> Craig
>

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-04 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Sun, 04 Feb 2024 15:28:08 -0500 Allan Streib via Mercedes
 wrote:

> To get at the alternator and coupling, the intake manifold has to come
> off.

You're kidding!


> So I'm going to look into that job. Sounds like it might be a bit of a
> PITA. Suppose I should just go ahead and replace the alternator
> prememptively while I'm in there?

If it is quite a pain, I would seriously think about replacing it.


Craig

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[MBZ] OT: Volvo fun

2024-02-04 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Son was on his way to work this morning in the '09 XC90. He called to state 
that he had "broken down" and there was a message "POWER SYSTEM SERVICE URGENT" 
on the dash.

I drove to his location and scanned the codes. P062001 Generator control 
circuit, General electrical fault and P062074 Generator control circuit, 
Mechanical faults, Actuator slipping.

Battery was reading about 8.5V, car would not start.

Drove home and got the battery out of my '79 300SD (conveniently it's the same 
size), went back to the Volvo and changed it out. Car started and ran fine, no 
fault messages. I drove it home and on the way there was a sudden screeching 
noise under the hood and the same fault message appeared. That continued for 
about 20 seconds and then stopped. The message stayed on.

The alternator control module (ACM) sends the engine control module (ECM) 
information on a mechanical fault in the alternator (engine speed exceeds a 
certain value but the alternator is not operating).

Turns out the alternator on this car is not directly belt driven, it's driven 
by a coupling off the back of a pulley on the serpentine belt path. From what 
I've read online[1], there is a bolt in that coupling that can back out and 
then it will slip. So this sounds like what is happening.

To get at the alternator and coupling, the intake manifold has to come off. So 
I'm going to look into that job. Sounds like it might be a bit of a PITA. 
Suppose I should just go ahead and replace the alternator prememptively while 
I'm in there? The car has 194k miles and I have all the maintenance history 
from prior owner and no record of the alternator being replaced.


[1] 
https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/power-system-service-urgent-questions-p062001-p062074-codes.614113/post-7589041
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