Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-13 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

yea, it seems to work pretty well.

Curt Raymond wrote:


I'm pretty well sold on AutoFrost.
  Once we get our housebuying out of the way I'm going to recharge my 190D with 
AutoFrost. Seems like a good excuse to learn how it all works.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 22:25:51 -0500

From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

*SNIP*

  Turned on 
the AC, and nothing cold.  next project.  I think it is still R-12.  
So 
i need to find a source for freeze 12 or similar concoction.

*SNIP*


-
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net



Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-12 Thread Curt Raymond
I'm pretty well sold on AutoFrost.
  Once we get our housebuying out of the way I'm going to recharge my 190D with 
AutoFrost. Seems like a good excuse to learn how it all works.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Thu, 11 May 2006 22:25:51 -0500
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

*SNIP*

  Turned on 
the AC, and nothing cold.  next project.  I think it is still R-12.  
So 
i need to find a source for freeze 12 or similar concoction.
*SNIP*


-
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls.  Great rates 
starting at 1cent;/min.
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Not to add more to your to-do list, but I think that I dropped the ball on
following up with you regarding a wood-type ashtray for my 240D. I need one
to solve the problem of the cigarette lighter apparently being removed -
base and all - by the P.O.

Is there a wire that runs to the back of the ashtray and plugs into the
ligher base? That whole area was left in a mess by P.O. Hope it's still
intact in my car.

Brian
83 240D


On 5/12/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If you sent it I probably got it.  I will be responding to parts
 questions over the weekend.

 archer wrote:

  Kaleb:  Did you get my order with the question about payment?  I'm
  re-sending it to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  Gerry Archer
  '83 300D and 240D
 
 
  -
  - Original Message -
  From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2006 7:04 PM
  Subject: [MBZ] I am on crank
 
 
 
 Well I got the balancer/pulley pulled off the parts engine and installe=
d
 on the 85 300D, so its now ready to go again.  I ended up using a
 steering wheel puller for GM cars on it.
 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
  85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.striplin.net
 
 ___
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76

Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-10 Thread Peter Frederick
You may bet by with a description -- it goes outside everthing, around 
the crank (ribbed side in, with the loop going up between the crank 
and the AC pulley to the tensioner.


You will probably have to push the tensioner loose to get the belt on 
-- the shock tends to extend it to full travel while you are wrestling 
the belt around.  Big PITA.


You do have a new belt, eh?  Tensioner OK?

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-10 Thread Loren Faeth
Yes, tensioner is ok. Idlers are ok.  Belt is new.  the old one will make a 
good spare.  NO cracks showing.


Thanks for the routing.  I will go try that.  I thought i remembered how it 
went, but I didn't get it right.  I think I am getting it confused with the 
OM 603 routing.


I have found the easiest way is to take the PS pulley off to get the belt 
off, then get the belt routed, then put the PS pulley on.  Then tension it. 
and check/tighten everything again.


Loren
88 TE  M103
et al


I am glad I took the radiator out.  makes the whole mess easier.

At 08:22 PM 5/9/2006, you wrote:

You may bet by with a description -- it goes outside everthing, around
the crank (ribbed side in, with the loop going up between the crank
and the AC pulley to the tensioner.

You will probably have to push the tensioner loose to get the belt on
-- the shock tends to extend it to full travel while you are wrestling
the belt around.  Big PITA.

You do have a new belt, eh?  Tensioner OK?

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-10 Thread Marshall Booth
Loren Faeth wrote:
 I had a little time this afternoon, So I tried putting the waterpump =

 on.  Did ok.  Maybe a little over an hour to get the front end of the =

 engine back together.  Passed leak test
 =

 Here is the problem:  I can't remember the serp belt routing.  I know I s=
aw =

 it on a job on the cd but it was illegible.  Does anyone have a picture o=
f =

 a good diagram from job 1350 or 1351?  I can't get either of those to com=
e =

 up on braingears.

Try this!

Marshall
-- =

  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 =

190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-10 Thread M.Afzaal Khan
Hi   Any idea how long the water pump lasted on the 103 engine? mileage or 
age period.

mak
- Original Message - 
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 5:54 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103



I had a little time this afternoon, So I tried putting the waterpump
on.  Did ok.  Maybe a little over an hour to get the front end of the
engine back together.  Passed leak test

Here is the problem:  I can't remember the serp belt routing.  I know I 
saw

it on a job on the cd but it was illegible.  Does anyone have a picture of
a good diagram from job 1350 or 1351?  I can't get either of those to come
up on braingears.


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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-10 Thread Loren Faeth
Thank you Herr Doktor and Herr Frederick.  It seems the assembly went 
faster than the disassembly.  I got everything back together in maybe 2.5 
hours total, not counting the time to try to figure out the belt 
routing.  But thanks to quick responses I got it all together tonight 
except the last AT hose.  It broke!


SO, I am going to replace the AT hoses and change the trans fluid and 
filter.  Waiting again


BTW:  my solution to getting the back 2 bolts in:  I put a layer of masking 
tape around the 3/8 drive universal joint.  then by using a 6 and 3 
extension on the top back bolt, I got it in.  For the Bottom back bolt, I 
used the universal with tape, and the 12 extension.  The intake manifold 
and the big AC hose go right where you need to work.  It was not near as 
bad as I thought it would be.  The tape was the trick.


I think Herr Frederick's 6 hours was about right for me too.  It'll go 
faster next time, if I can remember what I did this time.


Herr Kahn,  I am not sure about the life of the waterpump on a 103.  I 
believe that the one I replaced was not original.  So, in roughly 200K, 
this car is on the third pump.  My experience, with M180 and diesels is 
that an MB pump will last 100 to 200k miles, with the mean being somewhere 
around 150k.  Third party replacement pumps are usually good for 30k to 
100k.  In this case, what I believe was the second pump probably got rusty 
because the car sat for a year or possibly more.  Perhaps other M103 owners 
can relate their experiences.  I have only put about 250 miles on this 
one.  Every time I try to drive it something breaks or I find something 
else unreliable.  I think when i get the AT hoses, it will be good to 
go.  Sure does drive nice with new hydraulic parts and new tires!


Loren
88 TE
87 TD, soon to be on the road again!
et al.
124 wagons are sure good (sport) driving machines!  (guessing sedans are too)
126 SDLs are wonderful longhaul road machines
123s are fun, and decent road machines
110s are fun and great road machines!  (Not too shabby for sport driving as 
long as you don't push them too hard)

(sorry, only drove a 115 diesel once.  No opinion here)

At 09:27 PM 5/9/2006, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:
 I had a little time this afternoon, So I tried putting the waterpump
 on.  Did ok.  Maybe a little over an hour to get the front end of the
 engine back together.  Passed leak test

 Here is the problem:  I can't remember the serp belt routing.  I know I 
saw

 it on a job on the cd but it was illegible.  Does anyone have a picture of
 a good diagram from job 1350 or 1351?  I can't get either of those to come
 up on braingears.

Try this!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-10 Thread Loren Faeth
PS:  If you have the wobble extensions, I think one or 2 of them would 
work in place of the universal joint.  I briefly considered going to buy 
wobble extensions or taking a grinder to one of my extensions to make a 
wobble extension before the tape solution occurred to me.  I never have 
used universal joints much.  On the diesels, I always found a way to work 
without them.


At 11:47 PM 5/9/2006, you wrote:

Thank you Herr Doktor and Herr Frederick.  It seems the assembly went
faster than the disassembly.  I got everything back together in maybe 2.5
hours total, not counting the time to try to figure out the belt
routing.  But thanks to quick responses I got it all together tonight
except the last AT hose.  It broke!

SO, I am going to replace the AT hoses and change the trans fluid and
filter.  Waiting again

BTW:  my solution to getting the back 2 bolts in:  I put a layer of masking
tape around the 3/8 drive universal joint.  then by using a 6 and 3
extension on the top back bolt, I got it in.  For the Bottom back bolt, I
used the universal with tape, and the 12 extension.  The intake manifold
and the big AC hose go right where you need to work.  It was not near as
bad as I thought it would be.  The tape was the trick.

I think Herr Frederick's 6 hours was about right for me too.  It'll go
faster next time, if I can remember what I did this time.

Herr Kahn,  I am not sure about the life of the waterpump on a 103.  I
believe that the one I replaced was not original.  So, in roughly 200K,
this car is on the third pump.  My experience, with M180 and diesels is
that an MB pump will last 100 to 200k miles, with the mean being somewhere
around 150k.  Third party replacement pumps are usually good for 30k to
100k.  In this case, what I believe was the second pump probably got rusty
because the car sat for a year or possibly more.  Perhaps other M103 owners
can relate their experiences.  I have only put about 250 miles on this
one.  Every time I try to drive it something breaks or I find something
else unreliable.  I think when i get the AT hoses, it will be good to
go.  Sure does drive nice with new hydraulic parts and new tires!

Loren
88 TE
87 TD, soon to be on the road again!
et al.
124 wagons are sure good (sport) driving machines!  (guessing sedans are too)
126 SDLs are wonderful longhaul road machines
123s are fun, and decent road machines
110s are fun and great road machines!  (Not too shabby for sport driving as
long as you don't push them too hard)
(sorry, only drove a 115 diesel once.  No opinion here)

At 09:27 PM 5/9/2006, you wrote:
Loren Faeth wrote:
  I had a little time this afternoon, So I tried putting the waterpump
  on.  Did ok.  Maybe a little over an hour to get the front end of the
  engine back together.  Passed leak test
 
  Here is the problem:  I can't remember the serp belt routing.  I know I
 saw
  it on a job on the cd but it was illegible.  Does anyone have a 
picture of
  a good diagram from job 1350 or 1351?  I can't get either of those to 
come

  up on braingears.

Try this!

Marshall
--
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-10 Thread Marshall Booth

Loren Faeth wrote:
Thank you Herr Doktor and Herr Frederick.  It seems the assembly went 
faster than the disassembly.  I got everything back together in maybe 2.5 
hours total, not counting the time to try to figure out the belt 
routing.  But thanks to quick responses I got it all together tonight 
except the last AT hose.  It broke!


SO, I am going to replace the AT hoses and change the trans fluid and 
filter.  Waiting again


BTW:  my solution to getting the back 2 bolts in:  I put a layer of masking 
tape around the 3/8 drive universal joint.  then by using a 6 and 3 
extension on the top back bolt, I got it in.  For the Bottom back bolt, I 
used the universal with tape, and the 12 extension.  The intake manifold 
and the big AC hose go right where you need to work.  It was not near as 
bad as I thought it would be.  The tape was the trick.


I think Herr Frederick's 6 hours was about right for me too.  It'll go 
faster next time, if I can remember what I did this time.


Herr Kahn,  I am not sure about the life of the waterpump on a 103.  I 
believe that the one I replaced was not original.  So, in roughly 200K, 
this car is on the third pump.  My experience, with M180 and diesels is 
that an MB pump will last 100 to 200k miles, with the mean being somewhere 
around 150k.  Third party replacement pumps are usually good for 30k to 
100k.  In this case, what I believe was the second pump probably got rusty 
because the car sat for a year or possibly more.  Perhaps other M103 owners 
can relate their experiences.  I have only put about 250 miles on this 
one.  Every time I try to drive it something breaks or I find something 
else unreliable.  I think when i get the AT hoses, it will be good to 
go.  Sure does drive nice with new hydraulic parts and new tires!


Loren
88 TE
87 TD, soon to be on the road again!
et al.
124 wagons are sure good (sport) driving machines!  (guessing sedans are too)
126 SDLs are wonderful longhaul road machines
123s are fun, and decent road machines
110s are fun and great road machines!  (Not too shabby for sport driving as 
long as you don't push them too hard)

(sorry, only drove a 115 diesel once.  No opinion here)

At 09:27 PM 5/9/2006, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:

I had a little time this afternoon, So I tried putting the waterpump
on.  Did ok.  Maybe a little over an hour to get the front end of the
engine back together.  Passed leak test

Here is the problem:  I can't remember the serp belt routing.  I know I 

saw

it on a job on the cd but it was illegible.  Does anyone have a picture of
a good diagram from job 1350 or 1351?  I can't get either of those to come
up on braingears.

Try this!

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
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As I recall, factory time for the job (experienced mechanic that's done 
the job before) is 4+ hours. A really good  mechanic can better that by 
an hour or so if NOTHING goes wrong. Most mechanics (even very good 
ones) take 6 hours or more the first time.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-05 Thread OK Don

Those are some of the ones he wins.

On 5/4/06, David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hendrik Riessen wrote:
 Problem is they charge book time even if it takes them 2-3 hours, unless you
 know a very honest mechanic who doesn't like money much.


What gets my goat is how,  when I have a mechanic do two or three jobs
at the same time that involve removing the same parts, I end up paying
as much as I would have to get them done separately, because they just
add up the book times.

David Brodbeck
'83 300D Turbo


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Loren Faeth
Next question:  How on earth do you get those 2 back bolts started when you 
put humpty back together??


I finally got the pump out.  What a pain.  Sure makes me appreciate a 
110/111 and even a 123 240D!  It is a nifty design, before they hang on the 
intake manifold and all the accessories.  I hope I never have to do this again!


Loren
88 300TE

At 08:31 PM 4/27/2006, you wrote:

Danke, Herr Frederick

I was guessing it would be a long job because when i was working on the
Tandem PS pump i didn't see a way to get the bracket off without first
taking the pump out first.  Just taking out the tandem pump I thought was a
bear. (compared to OM 621/616 engines)

That is the type of BTDT info I was looking for!

I have started the disassembly.  I am going to take the radiator out also,
because I want to flush the system and having the radiator our will make
access easier.

Loren
88 TE M103

At 07:29 PM 4/27/2006, you wrote:
6 hours, almost to the minute.

You must remove the bracket for the PS pump, but need to remove the
pump, just loosen it.  You don't need to touch the AC bracket or pump.

You also do not need to remove the screw that holds the heater pipe, it
has a slot.  A real bear to get back if if you do (as I did).  Make
sure you have a new o-ring for that pipe, and I would replace the short
hose between thermostat housing and pump (or whatever it is) -- you
really must remove the pump to change it.

A swivel will be required to get to the rear bolts on the WP.  Make
sure the surface of the head is clean, you don't want to have to do
this again because the o-ring leaked.

Without PS, this is about a 30 min job.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Peter Frederick
Gosh, I don't remember too much trouble there.  Remember the old 
mechanic's trick of putting a bit of paper over the head of the screw 
(or over the hex driver) so that it sticks the screw onto the tool.  
Makes it a bit easier to get a bolt to rotate in a hole.


I did the whole job in one shot, boy did my back ache!  Didn't cure the 
slow coolant leak somewhere, though.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Marshall Booth

Loren Faeth wrote:
Next question:  How on earth do you get those 2 back bolts started when you 
put humpty back together??


I finally got the pump out.  What a pain.  Sure makes me appreciate a 
110/111 and even a 123 240D!  It is a nifty design, before they hang on the 
intake manifold and all the accessories.  I hope I never have to do this again!


Everyone I know has found the M103 water pump to be a challenge (the 
first time). After the first time, it's just a pain!


This from another list:


I would not put a M103 water pump in the easy to medium catagory. It is
more in the medium to heavy duty catagory. Book time for the water pump is
almost four hours..it is not all that easy. A really good fast Benz mechanic who 
has done many can knock it out in about 2-2.5 hours, maybe..It's not that it is a

particularly difficult job, but I think a lot of mechanical experience would 
really help
in the process. 


Stu


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)




Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Loren Faeth
H.  THat is why i started this.  Coolant dribble from front of engine, 
unidentified, coupled with a chirp noise.  We thought it was probably the 
WP.  In most cases that is the correct diagnoses, but this is my first 
M103.  Now that i  got the pump off, a cursory inspection looks like it is 
ok, but I will look closer.


Loren
88 300TE

At 08:06 PM 5/3/2006, you wrote:

Gosh, I don't remember too much trouble there.  Remember the old
mechanic's trick of putting a bit of paper over the head of the screw
(or over the hex driver) so that it sticks the screw onto the tool.
Makes it a bit easier to get a bolt to rotate in a hole.

I did the whole job in one shot, boy did my back ache!  Didn't cure the
slow coolant leak somewhere, though.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Loren Faeth
I think peter's 6 hours is closer, but I am being overly cautious I 
know.  If I could pay someone for 2 hours and get it done, I WOULD!  (next 
time)  ; )


At 08:16 PM 5/3/2006, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:
 Next question:  How on earth do you get those 2 back bolts started when 
you

 put humpty back together??

 I finally got the pump out.  What a pain.  Sure makes me appreciate a
 110/111 and even a 123 240D!  It is a nifty design, before they hang on 
the
 intake manifold and all the accessories.  I hope I never have to do 
this again!


Everyone I know has found the M103 water pump to be a challenge (the
first time). After the first time, it's just a pain!

This from another list:

 I would not put a M103 water pump in the easy to medium catagory. It is
 more in the medium to heavy duty catagory. Book time for the water pump is
 almost four hours..it is not all that easy. A really good fast Benz 
mechanic who
 has done many can knock it out in about 2-2.5 hours, maybe..It's not 
that it is a
 particularly difficult job, but I think a lot of mechanical experience 
would really help

 in the process.

 Stu

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Talking about cramped engine compartments. I put a deposit on a 96 
Mitsubishi Magna (similar to the Diamante you get in the US except this one 
is a base model) and with the V6 lying travesley with a auto box attached 
there ain't much room left for all the other things needed. There is a power 
steering pump in there somewhere I think, the alternator is reasonably easy 
to get at but the spark plugs for the rear cylinder bank look like you need 
to take off the inlet manifold to change them. Luckily this V6 can take long 
life spark plugs.
Anyway it was cheap at AU$3000, with service history and 186,000k's on the 
clock.
Few minor fix ups and it should be alright. Biggest problem will be to hang 
onto my drivers license, especially now that the Government has put 
different speed limits all over the place. Some places you are only allowed 
to go 40k's/h then there are 50 zones and the bigger roads in town are 60.
Yeah I know it ain't a Merc but I can't buy a 96 V6 Mercedes for 3 grand and 
given the price of fuel I could not justify a old V8 Merc or a good 
condition 280E which would be the only thing equivilant in power. Then again 
trying to find any Merc in good condition for 3 grand is an excercise in 
patience.


Hendrik
who will be able to service and repair the family fleet soon, once I make 
some room in the shed (h that bit of styrofoam will be useful for 
something some day:-))


- Original Message - 
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103


Next question:  How on earth do you get those 2 back bolts started when 
you

put humpty back together??

I finally got the pump out.  What a pain.  Sure makes me appreciate a
110/111 and even a 123 240D!  It is a nifty design, before they hang on 
the
intake manifold and all the accessories.  I hope I never have to do this 
again!


Loren
88 300TE

At 08:31 PM 4/27/2006, you wrote:

Danke, Herr Frederick

I was guessing it would be a long job because when i was working on the
Tandem PS pump i didn't see a way to get the bracket off without first
taking the pump out first.  Just taking out the tandem pump I thought was 
a

bear. (compared to OM 621/616 engines)

That is the type of BTDT info I was looking for!

I have started the disassembly.  I am going to take the radiator out also,
because I want to flush the system and having the radiator our will make
access easier.

Loren
88 TE M103

At 07:29 PM 4/27/2006, you wrote:
6 hours, almost to the minute.

You must remove the bracket for the PS pump, but need to remove the
pump, just loosen it.  You don't need to touch the AC bracket or pump.

You also do not need to remove the screw that holds the heater pipe, it
has a slot.  A real bear to get back if if you do (as I did).  Make
sure you have a new o-ring for that pipe, and I would replace the short
hose between thermostat housing and pump (or whatever it is) -- you
really must remove the pump to change it.

A swivel will be required to get to the rear bolts on the WP.  Make
sure the surface of the head is clean, you don't want to have to do
this again because the o-ring leaked.

Without PS, this is about a 30 min job.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Hendrik Riessen
Problem is they charge book time even if it takes them 2-3 hours, unless you 
know a very honest mechanic who doesn't like money much.


Hendrik
who doesn't charge the missus anything to keep the heaps mobile, then again 
she doesn't charge me for coffee and horizontal workout in the morning


- Original Message - 
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103



I think peter's 6 hours is closer, but I am being overly cautious I
know.  If I could pay someone for 2 hours and get it done, I WOULD!  (next
time)  ; )

At 08:16 PM 5/3/2006, you wrote:

Loren Faeth wrote:
 Next question:  How on earth do you get those 2 back bolts started when
you
 put humpty back together??

 I finally got the pump out.  What a pain.  Sure makes me appreciate a
 110/111 and even a 123 240D!  It is a nifty design, before they hang on
the
 intake manifold and all the accessories.  I hope I never have to do
this again!

Everyone I know has found the M103 water pump to be a challenge (the
first time). After the first time, it's just a pain!

This from another list:

 I would not put a M103 water pump in the easy to medium catagory. It is
 more in the medium to heavy duty catagory. Book time for the water pump 
 is

 almost four hours..it is not all that easy. A really good fast Benz
mechanic who
 has done many can knock it out in about 2-2.5 hours, maybe..It's not
that it is a
 particularly difficult job, but I think a lot of mechanical experience
would really help
 in the process.

 Stu

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-05-04 Thread Jim Cathey
Problem is they charge book time even if it takes them 2-3 hours, 
unless you

know a very honest mechanic who doesn't like money much.


The whole point of the book time is that you win some and you
lose some.  A really good mechanic wins more than he loses, and
can start making good money, provided there's enough work waiting
for him.

The friends and family price might be less, anywhere from free
up to parts cost and/or actual time.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-04-28 Thread Peter Frederick

6 hours, almost to the minute.

You must remove the bracket for the PS pump, but need to remove the 
pump, just loosen it.  You don't need to touch the AC bracket or pump.


You also do not need to remove the screw that holds the heater pipe, it 
has a slot.  A real bear to get back if if you do (as I did).  Make 
sure you have a new o-ring for that pipe, and I would replace the short 
hose between thermostat housing and pump (or whatever it is) -- you 
really must remove the pump to change it.


A swivel will be required to get to the rear bolts on the WP.  Make 
sure the surface of the head is clean, you don't want to have to do 
this again because the o-ring leaked.


Without PS, this is about a 30 min job.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-04-28 Thread Loren Faeth

Danke, Herr Frederick

I was guessing it would be a long job because when i was working on the 
Tandem PS pump i didn't see a way to get the bracket off without first 
taking the pump out first.  Just taking out the tandem pump I thought was a 
bear. (compared to OM 621/616 engines)


That is the type of BTDT info I was looking for!

I have started the disassembly.  I am going to take the radiator out also, 
because I want to flush the system and having the radiator our will make 
access easier.


Loren
88 TE M103

At 07:29 PM 4/27/2006, you wrote:

6 hours, almost to the minute.

You must remove the bracket for the PS pump, but need to remove the
pump, just loosen it.  You don't need to touch the AC bracket or pump.

You also do not need to remove the screw that holds the heater pipe, it
has a slot.  A real bear to get back if if you do (as I did).  Make
sure you have a new o-ring for that pipe, and I would replace the short
hose between thermostat housing and pump (or whatever it is) -- you
really must remove the pump to change it.

A swivel will be required to get to the rear bolts on the WP.  Make
sure the surface of the head is clean, you don't want to have to do
this again because the o-ring leaked.

Without PS, this is about a 30 min job.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Waterpump change on M103

2006-04-27 Thread Loren Faeth
OK, I should have printed the pages first.  there are small print 
prerequisites on the top of the page that i missed on the screen.  It says 
to remove the tensioner and the waterpump and the air cleaner.  It does not 
say however if the PS pump bracket stays in place or if you remove the pump 
and bracket as a unit.  Anyone BTDT?   I know from the suspension work that 
the PS pump is a bear to get to all the bolts.  I never did figure out if 
you could remove the bracket and PS pump as a unit.


I'd sure appreciate any help.  Thanks.  Plan to flush and change to the 
proper antifreeze as part of the process.


Loren
88 300TEM103

At 05:45 PM 4/27/2006, you wrote:

Can anyone tell me how much i have to take off the engine to change the
M103 waterpump?  THe job,  20-2100 has an exploded diagram, but I can't
tell if you have to take off the AC compressor and bracket or only the PS
pump and bracket or neither, with the right tools and contortions.   There
is no step by step instructions that i can find.
http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W124/w124CD1/Program/Engine/103/20-2100.pdf

Does anyone have the flat rate time for this?  that might give me a
clue.  Thanks!

Loren
88 300TE


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