Re: RE: DSLR - No meter needed
Użytkownik Nagaraj, Ramesh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> napisał: >IMHO as uncertainty reduces things become less exciting; so photography may not be so >much exciting. >This may vary from individual to individual and also whether you are pro or ameture. >I have not used any digital >camera. I would like to hear from other digital user\'s. As I shoot both film and digital (E-20p) I notice that the latter makes the photographer lazy. No need to think a lot, because one can always discard a bad photo and shoot another one (and so on) until it's good. The LCD is far from being perfect but mostly it's useful enough to see whether the photo is correctly exposed and well composed. However, I don't agree with a common opinion that the digital photography makes virtually everyone a good photographer. The general, as well as specific, rules and principles still must be known to obtain good results and if one doesn't know them, the digital won't be of any help... Regards Artur
re: DSLR - No meter needed
only issue i have with this is when you are capturing a sunset-you dont have the time
RE: SMC M 2.5/135mm
Hi all Thanks to Lukasz, Paul and Andre for answeers about this lens. Just got one off ebay for 102$. Not exactly cheap, but one year ago the price was about 50% higher. I guess - BTW - that wideangels will be going up when Pentax joins the digital revolution with the ist *D in a couple of months! The 3.5/15mm sell for about 500-600$ Reards Jens -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Lukasz Kacperczyk [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 22. marts 2003 00:36 Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Emne: Re: SMC M 2.5/135mm > I've found that the M 135/3.5 and the K 135/2.5 are both very good > glass. I once owned both, but sold the M in order not to be a lens pig > . The K is a bit better and of course it's faster, It's a pleasure to look through this lens (especially when it's mounted on a LX) - thanks, Michal :-) > but the M is > extraordinary for its size and weight. Can't argue with that. It's a sweet little lens with very nice bokeh. Really cheap and plentiful too. Lukasz
67 lens -> screw mount adapter?
I know there's an adapter to go from 67 -> K-mount, but is there one that goes to screw mount? Google didn't turn up any. TIA, Ryan
Re: Lens Hood Suggestions
Thanks for the advice, do you know how the HN-3 differs from the HN-1, which is the hood recommended for Nikon's 24mm lens (also a 52mm thread) -Scott On Sat, 2003-03-22 at 20:51, William Johnson wrote: > I have found that Nikon's HN-3 hood works well with both my FA28-70/4 (52mm) > and a Vivitar 24/2.8 (52mm). It is a metal screw in hood usually available > on ebay or most well stocked Nikon dealers. I use a Takumar 105/2.8 100/4 > metal screw in hood for my FA80-200/4.7-5.6 (49mm). I have found that I > can also use this hood on a 50mm lens with no vignetting if I don't use a > filter. > > Hope that helps, > > William in Utah. > - Original Message - > From: "Scott Nelson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, March 21, 2003 7:22 PM > Subject: Lens Hood Suggestions > > > > After recently acquiring a deep, solid hood with my SMC 135/2.5 (Thanks > > Fred) I've decided to get hood for the rest of my lenses. I already > > have a flexible hood for my 50mm, but I like the protection offered by > > the solid hood more. Metal hood are preferable, but solid plastic hoods > > are ok too. I have the following lenses: > > > > 28-70 f/4 52mm filter > > 80-200 f/4.7-5.6 49mm filter > > 24mm f/2.8 52mm filter > > 50mm f/1.7 49mm filter > > 135mm f/2.5 58mm filter (already have an ok hood); > > > > Thanks in advance for your suggesetions > > -Scott > > > > > > > > >
Re: In the cute but useless category.....
Are you sure that anyone ever thought you were cute? ;) At 09:33 PM 3/23/2003 -0600, you wrote: http://www.imaging-resource.com/NEWS/1048106892.html Hey I resemble that subject line!! William Robb Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read. --Groucho Marx
Re: Pentax Stereo Adapter
Grab it Frank, it's something interesting to try. Supposedly, it works best with 50mm lenses, but by all means, experiment. Hmm, looming noods... Pat White
Re: Technical Pan OT
This post is difficult to understand. Do you mean you put the cassette into the camera in the bathroom? Are you under the impression that the film, in its cassette, might have been fogged by subdued light in the bathroom? You write 'The info on Kodak's website suggests to load and unload in complete darkness.' This doesn't make any sense either. Don ___ Dr E D F Williams http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams Author's Web Site and Photo Gallery Updated: March 30, 2002 - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 8:08 PM Subject: Technical Pan OT > > Hi all. > My darkroom instructor suggested i try a roll of TP.A lot of my B&W stuff is rural,old > farms etc and he > suggested it would be a good film to try as it can be shot at a low speed and obtain good > clear prints. > I shot one about 2.5 weeks ago,but like any good male,i read the instructions AFTER i > loaded it.The info > on Kodaks website suggests to load and unload in complete darkness.I unfortunalte loaded > it in > subdued light in my bathroom. > Am i s***ed here or will this little amount of light not effect much.I wondered about it > as the package is > translucent,not solid like the HIE films. > > Any thoughts or comments before i possible waste some developing time. > BTW it's rated it at 50 with just a standard uv filter for the test. > > Dave(2 classes to go,boo hoo)Brooks > >
Re: OT: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't??
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William Robb quoted me and inquired: For the record, AOL doesn't allow the user to send Plain Text. Perhaps it's not the only program with this limitation. Is that why some AOL users have what appears to be broken HTML tags in their posts? I presume the Major is trying to strip the code out if possible? Don't know -- but I do know that this inability to send Plain Text meant I could not post to PDML at all from my AOL account (all were rejected automatically) and that is why I now use a texas.net account to interact with the PDML. The only "help" that AOL tech support could offer me was to suggest I use the "AOL Anywhere" option (in other words, go to AOL as a web site while in another browser), but (for unknown reasons) the computers in my house won't allow that. I believe it's how other AOL users are able to post to PDML; I'm pretty sure Doe aka Marnie told me that's what she was doing. Do you have to use the AOL mail client, or can you just use something else?
Data/date backs was (Re: Complaints)
I agree with Thomas on this: I use the date facility at the beginning of the film so that anyone looking at the negative strips knows when they were started. Since the MZ-S also prints the film number at the beginning, it's a pretty good way of sequencing one's films. In addition, I understand that some police and other forensic scientists use the date imprinting to help eliminate arguments about when the frame was shot (of course a good brief would argue that the date was set to whatever was needed for a conviction!). John Coyle Brisbane, Australia - Original Message - From: "Thomas Heide Clausen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 9:09 AM Subject: Re: Complaints > I feel a counter-opinion is required :) > > Actually, I appreciate the date back on the MZ-S. I use it rarely, > however it is quite handy at times. Since my work involves lots of > travelling, and since I always bring a camera along, I usually use > the date-function to keep track on where I was when: taking the first > shot(s) of the day of easilly recognizeable landmark and imprinting > the date makes organizing slides so much easier. Similarly for > recalling memories when viewing the slides years later :) > > I don't use the date stuff much, but it is definitely something I'd > not like to be without. > > If I had the choise, I would still pick the MZ-S with date back. > > --thomas
Data/date backs was (Re: Complaints)
I agree with Thomas on this: I use the date facility at the beginning of the film so that anyone looking at the negative strips knows when they were started. Since the MZ-S also prints the film number at the beginning, it's a pretty good way of sequencing one's films. In addition, I understand that some police and other forensic scientists use the date imprinting to help eliminate arguments about when the frame was shot (of course a good brief would argue that the date was set to whatever was needed for a conviction!). John Coyle Brisbane, Australia - Original Message - From: "Thomas Heide Clausen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 9:09 AM Subject: Re: Complaints > I feel a counter-opinion is required :) > > Actually, I appreciate the date back on the MZ-S. I use it rarely, > however it is quite handy at times. Since my work involves lots of > travelling, and since I always bring a camera along, I usually use > the date-function to keep track on where I was when: taking the first > shot(s) of the day of easilly recognizeable landmark and imprinting > the date makes organizing slides so much easier. Similarly for > recalling memories when viewing the slides years later :) > > I don't use the date stuff much, but it is definitely something I'd > not like to be without. > > If I had the choise, I would still pick the MZ-S with date back. > > --thomas
Data/date backs was (Re: Complaints)
I agree with Thomas on this: I use the date facility at the beginning of the film so that anyone looking at the negative strips knows when they were started. Since the MZ-S also prints the film number at the beginning, it's a pretty good way of sequencing one's films. In addition, I understand that some police and other forensic scientists use the date imprinting to help eliminate arguments about when the frame was shot (of course a good brief would argue that the date was set to whatever was needed for a conviction!). John Coyle Brisbane, Australia - Original Message - From: "Thomas Heide Clausen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 9:09 AM Subject: Re: Complaints > I feel a counter-opinion is required :) > > Actually, I appreciate the date back on the MZ-S. I use it rarely, > however it is quite handy at times. Since my work involves lots of > travelling, and since I always bring a camera along, I usually use > the date-function to keep track on where I was when: taking the first > shot(s) of the day of easilly recognizeable landmark and imprinting > the date makes organizing slides so much easier. Similarly for > recalling memories when viewing the slides years later :) > > I don't use the date stuff much, but it is definitely something I'd > not like to be without. > > If I had the choise, I would still pick the MZ-S with date back. > > --thomas > > On Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:35:08 -0500 > "Kenneth Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > I had no choice when I picked up my MZ-S, AFAIK there is no other > > back for that camera. IMHO, the date backs, recently available > > from, Pentax are really useless on camera of this level (PZ1, PZ1P, > > MZ-S etc.) If you want to date stamp a photo buy a good point and > > shoot. An excellent data back was available for the SF1, it has > > several modes of date and time imprinting along with sequential > > imprinting - A- 00 through something like G -99. Kenneth Waller > > - Original Message - > > From: "Roland Mabo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 5:13 PM > > Subject: Re: Complaints > > snip, snip, snip > > > > > and they're making money on them because some people actually > > > finds it useful. If not, why did they buy it? > > > > > -- > > --- > Thomas Heide Clausen > Civilingeniør i Datateknik (cand.polyt) > M.Sc in Computer Engineering > > E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > WWW:http://www.cs.auc.dk/~voop > --- > >
Re: Crumpler bags
Hi, I have tried the newer ones, There are actualy 2 Crumpler shops near me. They also sponsored a launch we had at work with free bags and one of the guys here at work is a good friend with the owner, they come fron the same town. I think my issue with the packing is not that they are small, just the shape i didnt find was good for camera gear. Most people seem to like them for just carrying stuff around in. I've gone through alot of bags in the past few years and i just seem to keep coming back to a Domke F6 and F2, although they arnt that great as a everyday bag. Regards, Paul - Original Message - From: "Lukasz Kacperczyk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2003 12:43 PM Subject: Re: Crumpler bags > > Con's > > - Not very easy to pack > > Well, yes - it's quite tight, but that's something one gets used to. > > > - Has a tendency to slip around on your shoulder > > Haven't noticed, although I wear it across my chest so that may be the > explanation. > > > > > I prefer Domke myself. > > For me, a crossover between a Domke and a Crumpler would be ideal - > Domke-style metal clamps (or whatever they're called) on the top flap and > the back compartment for storing documents, and the rest from the Oh Lord, > and I'd be very happy. > > BTW, Paul - have you used any newer Crumplers? On the pictures on their > website they look a bit more convenient to use, and it seems that some of my > complaints have been answered. Unfortunatelly they aren't available in > Poland, so I can't go to a store an check myself. > > regards, > Lukasz >
Re: OT: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't??
William Robb quoted me and inquired: > > For the record, AOL doesn't allow the user to send Plain Text. Perhaps > it's not > > the only program with this limitation. > > > Is that why some AOL users have what appears to be broken HTML tags in their > posts? > I presume the Major is trying to strip the code out if possible? > Don't know -- but I do know that this inability to send Plain Text meant I could not post to PDML at all from my AOL account (all were rejected automatically) and that is why I now use a texas.net account to interact with the PDML. The only "help" that AOL tech support could offer me was to suggest I use the "AOL Anywhere" option (in other words, go to AOL as a web site while in another browser), but (for unknown reasons) the computers in my house won't allow that. I believe it's how other AOL users are able to post to PDML; I'm pretty sure Doe aka Marnie told me that's what she was doing.
Re: Kodak "High Definition" 400 speed film?
PGI = Print Grain Index It's Kodak's system for evaluating film grain. The grain is the same for UC400 and VC160. Other characteristics such as saturation and contrast may be different. You can look at the data sheets on the Kodak site. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks Bruce, the shots look good to me! JOOC, what does PGI stand for? Sorry I'm technically-challenged. Based on your comment, would you say that it shows similiar characteristics to the VC160, when you make enlargements? Thanks again for everyone's help! --- Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The first 5 shots here: http://home.att.net/~b_rubenstein/Fred/index.html were done with UC. The rest are Fuji 400. I'm not sure what you can tell by looking at smallish files on a monitor. Prints done on Royal Kodak paper look really good. The film has the same PGI as VC160 which is lower than the other 400 Portra films. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bruce: Do you (or anyone else here on the list) have sample photos that I could look at, where you used Kodak Portra 400UC? I'm curious to see the colors, especially with skin tones. I have not shot it yet, and would appreciate a sneak peak before buying some. Thanks for the referral to Kodak-looks like a good deal to me! __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! http://platinum.yahoo.com
Re: Power Thread - Battery Packs
Ditto. I use mine with a Sunpak handlemount, and it makes a world of difference. > I have 2 turbo Z's and love them. I have one for sale if you want it. > > The #1 reason to get a battery pack is the improved recycling time. A > full discharge on an Af500FTZ usually takes about 10 seconds to > recycle. It's 1 or 2 secs with the pack. If you shoot at less then > full power than it's basically instantaneous recharge for a frame or > 2, depending on the amount discharged. > > tv > >
Re: Kodak "High Definition" 400 speed film?
Steve Pearson wrote: JOOC, what does PGI stand for? "Print Graininess Index". Kodak observed that their films compare bad with other manufacturers when the grain is measured using the standard "RMS" method. So they decided to stop publishing RMS data and replace it with their own PGI measurement. Nobody knows how this PGI relates to RMS. So you can't anymore compare Kodak data with other manufacturers data. See ? Problems have simple solutions. cheers, caveman
Re: More on incident metering
Definitely going to try taking the reading over my shoulder. That's okay unless you're wearing that white jacket! keith whaley Or don't have any glare reducing hair left
Re: Hand Meters
- Original Message - From: "Steve Desjardins" Subject: Re: Hand Meters > Y'all will have to excuse me if I seem to be struggling with this, but > I am. There seems to be some agreement (but not all) that an incident > light reading gives "better" (more consistent?) exposure than a > reflected light reading. I read that part about the color response of > the sensor matching the character of the light. That makes sense. Why, > however, does this imply that a reflected light reading can be prone to > huge inaccuracies, but the incident sensor is not? Wouldn't the > sensor problem affect both readings in the same way? I also realize > that it very easy to misuse a spot meter reading since you have to > understand at least some primitive version of the zone system. The > meter tries to make the area being read reproduced on film as 18% gray > (actually, I read somewhere that it should really be about 13%). You > obviously have to make adjustments so that the highlights and shadows > come out correctly, and this requires some thought and understanding. > The incident reading, OTOH, is simple since there is only one kind of > light striking the scene. As long as the meter is correctly oriented, > there is only one possible reading to make. > > It this the trick then? The incident reading is better because it is > easier to use the result without making a mistake? Sorry I'm being so > dense about this, but this is an important thing to get right. As far as colour sensitivity goes, an incident meter only runs into a few colours of light, so there is less possibility of the meter going whacky because of a colour sensitivity issue. Spot meters have the most chance of colour failing for the same reason. They get pointed at all sorts of colours. At some point, you are bound to hit on a colour that goofs the meter. According to the late Mr. Picker, spot metering can be made very easy and very reliable. I use his metering strategy pretty much all the time. He advocated metering for Zone VIII and setting the exposure accordingly, which is exactly opposite to Adams wanting the shadows metered (Zone II or III). In general landscape work, Picker's method works better than Adam's method. Find a cloud, meter the brightest part you want to secure any kind of detail in, and that is your metering done. Transfer that to the camera, add four stops, and take your picture. If you have a Zone VI modified meter, you set the meter reading to Zone 8 and the calculation is automatically done for you. William Robb
Re: Technical Pan OT
I had a client years ago who shot Tech Pan for fashion stuff. The extended red sensitivity was good for the girl's complaxions. We came up with a speed of 12, and IIRC, I used HC:110, Dilution D for (I think) around 6 minutes. You can only load half the film the tank will carry, to ensure you have enough developer capacity to do the job. William Robb
Re: OT: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't??
- Original Message - Subject: Re: OT: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't?? > > For the record, AOL doesn't allow the user to send Plain Text. Perhaps it's not > the only program with this limitation. > Is that why some AOL users have what appears to be broken HTML tags in their posts? I presume the Major is trying to strip the code out if possible? William Robb
Re: Is this Pentax?
On 25 Mar 2003 19:17:52 -0600, you wrote: >http://levi.kign.org/pentax/ > >This is a mirror lens without aperture control. I am not sure though, >so I need a second oppinion. Is this a Pentax K mount? > >thx > Looks Nikon to me. -- John Mustarde www.photolin.com
Re: Kodak "High Definition" 400 speed film?
Thanks Bruce, the shots look good to me! JOOC, what does PGI stand for? Sorry I'm technically-challenged. Based on your comment, would you say that it shows similiar characteristics to the VC160, when you make enlargements? Thanks again for everyone's help! --- Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The first 5 shots here: > http://home.att.net/~b_rubenstein/Fred/index.html > were done with UC. The rest are Fuji 400. I'm not > sure what you can tell > by looking at smallish files on a monitor. Prints > done on Royal Kodak > paper look really good. The film has the same PGI as > VC160 which is > lower than the other 400 Portra films. > > BR > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > >Bruce: > > > >Do you (or anyone else here on the list) have > sample > >photos that I could look at, where you used Kodak > >Portra 400UC? I'm curious to see the colors, > >especially with skin tones. I have not shot it > yet, > >and would appreciate a sneak peak before buying > some. > > > >Thanks for the referral to Kodak-looks like a good > >deal to me! > > > > > > > > __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! http://platinum.yahoo.com
RE: DSLR - No meter needed
Making sure that you get good colours is a usefull feature; it may reduce the uncertainty in the photography. IMHO as uncertainty reduces things become less exciting; so photography may not be so much exciting. This may vary from individual to individual and also whether you are pro or ameture. I have not used any digital camera. I would like to hear from other digital user's. Regards, Ramesh -Original Message- From: John Mustarde [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 8:10 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: DSLR - No meter needed One advantage of a DSLR is the instant review. Just take the shot, read the highlights/histogram, and adjust accordingly. It's not perfect, mainly because the image review screen is so small. But a histogram, and a feature to show blown highlights, plus the ability to zoom in, makes for some pretty useful instant feedback. It's good enough that most don't really mind the camera's inability to meter with non-CPU lenses. One shot gives more information than a reading from an incident or spot meter. -- John Mustarde www.photolin.com
Re: Technical Pan OT
What are you planning to use for a developer? The E.I with tech pan developer is usually 25. I think there are a couple developers that will give you a full range negative at E.I. 50. I think you can even use HC-110 with dilution F (very weak). BUTCH Each man had only one genuine vocation - to find the way to himself. Hermann Hess (Damien)
Re: OT: Camera Part Identification
Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 23:06:35 + From: Cotty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Collin, you are the saddest poor little wretch I have ever read upon this list! Is this the best you can come up with to pass the time? My God! I watch it once each week. We each have our burden. I've got a copy somewhere - haven't seen it yet - will report back :-) Cotty Enjoy yourself. Collin
Re: Kodak "High Definition" 400 speed film?
The first 5 shots here: http://home.att.net/~b_rubenstein/Fred/index.html were done with UC. The rest are Fuji 400. I'm not sure what you can tell by looking at smallish files on a monitor. Prints done on Royal Kodak paper look really good. The film has the same PGI as VC160 which is lower than the other 400 Portra films. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Bruce: Do you (or anyone else here on the list) have sample photos that I could look at, where you used Kodak Portra 400UC? I'm curious to see the colors, especially with skin tones. I have not shot it yet, and would appreciate a sneak peak before buying some. Thanks for the referral to Kodak-looks like a good deal to me!
Re: More on incident metering
Paul Jones wrote: > > >> Despite the sophisticated EOS > > > metering and the broad latitude of Tri-X he used a Minolta or Sekonic > > > digital incident meter to measure the light coming over his shoulder. > > Thats actualy a pretty good idea to take the reading over your shoulder. I > seem to use a incident meter %60 of the time when i'm out shooting and my > exposures are definately more accurate. > > Definately going to try taking the reading over my shoulder. That's okay unless you're wearing that white jacket! keith whaley > > Regards, > Paul
Re: OT: Power Thread - Battery Packs
I use a Quantum Battery Pack II with my Pentax AF400T. It's awesome. I can shoot with the motor drive on my LX at 1/4 power in most situations, and I rarely have to think about waiting for recharge in any situation. I've shot 12 rolls of 120 film or four rolls of 135 and never come close to depleting the battery. Couldn't work without it. Paul Stenquist David Chang-Sang wrote: > > Hi folks... > > In my quest for maintaining constant power to my numerous flashes (Metz and > Vivitar) I'm curious to find out if any of you out there are using any > Quantum Battery Packs. > > If you are, how do you like them? Which type are you using? > > As the spring and wedding season approach I know that sometimes NiMH may not > be enough. > > Thanks a ton, > Dave
RE: Power Thread - Battery Packs
> -Original Message- > From: David Chang-Sang [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Hi folks... > > In my quest for maintaining constant power to my numerous > flashes (Metz and > Vivitar) I'm curious to find out if any of you out there > are using any > Quantum Battery Packs. I do. > > If you are, how do you like them? Which type are you using? I have 2 turbo Z's and love them. I have one for sale if you want it. The #1 reason to get a battery pack is the improved recycling time. A full discharge on an Af500FTZ usually takes about 10 seconds to recycle. It's 1 or 2 secs with the pack. If you shoot at less then full power than it's basically instantaneous recharge for a frame or 2, depending on the amount discharged. tv
Re: A Real hand meter
Incident meters measure the light falling on the meter cell. An alternative is to use a camera built-in meter to measure the light falling on a 18% gray card. I carry a small one in my bag. An alternative is to measure the light falling on the palm of your hand and then open up one stop to approximate an 18% card. I sometimes forget the gray card but I always remember my hands. Now bracket the shot! Bill Lawlor This reminds me of a customer I had at a lab I worked for in the early 90's. Allison had a ghost white complexion, shot Vericolor rated at 160 (I think she had a DX coded camera and didn't know how to override the Dx coding anyway) and would shoot 25-30 rolls at a wedding. She used the meter on the hand open a stop (with the camera's built in meter) and would invariably be underexposed 1-2 stops. She would then bring half to 2/3rds of the proofs back asking us to "punch up the color". I even suggested that she dress her kids in white, shoot 2-3 rolls bracketing like crazy, so we could get a working E.I. for her to get a properly exposed negative, and we would process the film for free. She refused because some photographic "guru" told her that the meter off the hand trick was the hot set-up. Needless to say, we lost money every time she came in. The moral of the story is: make sure you test any "tricks" before shooting something important. For those of you who are not familiar with early 90's Vericolor. It was Kodak's wedding/portrait film, very low contrast with absolutely no tolerance for underexposure. Most pros rated it between E.I. 125 and 80 with E.I. 100 the most common. We were also printing it on an old Noritsu QSS2 EP-2 machine (one of the first mini-labs produced). Disclaimer: This was not intended to question Bill's metering trick which does work reasonably well most of the time, especially if you bracket as suggested. BUTCH Each man had only one genuine vocation - to find the way to himself. Hermann Hess (Damien)
Re: Crumpler bags
> Crumpler - any listers have > any experience of these things? At least Paul Jones (don't like) and me (like). > Australian aren't they? Yup. I have one from the first generation (an older one, I mean) called "Oh Lord". It's VERY well made, seems indestructible (and I have one Billingham bag, so I should know something about it :-) and looks great. There are two downsides, though: 1. lotsa velcro that screams when you open the bag (still, the bag is quite secure thanks to that very velcro) 2. no flat open compartment on the back (accessible from the outside of the bag - useful for note pads, maps, etc.) Other than that I love everything about this bag, and I feel that my equipment is safe in it. Oh Lord doesn't even look like a camera bag, but rather like a small messenger bag, though some people say it looks like a laptop bag, and therefore might attract attention, but I don't agree with that (it resembling a laptop bag, i.e.). Don't know about the newer bags, but my guess is they're as well made as mine, and from the pictures I see that they're a bit more convenient to use. Shortly speaking - buy it :-) If you have any specific questions, feel free to ask, Cotty. I hope this helps a bit. Best regards, Lukasz
Re: Technical Pan OT
On Tue, 25 Mar 2003 18:41:15 -0500 Nick Zentena <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On March 25, 2003 05:08 am, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > Any thoughts or comments before i possible waste some developing > > time. BTW it's rated it at 50 with just a standard uv filter for > > the test. > > > I forget but isn't that way too fast for Techpan? > I think you can get prints when rating it at 50, but I guess they are rather contrasty. I usually rate it about 20, develop with something so dilluted that it makes water look concentrated for something that feels like a week.but it's worth the effort, by far the smoothest bw I've seen :)
Re: Complaints
i don't like the feel of the back with the extra bulge. Herb - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 12:54 Subject: Re: Complaints > Cheapest and easiest way to fix this is to turn the date function off. Next > cheapest and easiest would be to remove the date-back's battery. > >
Re: Crumpler bags
you haven't seen the names of the rest of their bags. downright lewd, maybe. i have their full line brochure. you have to read between the lines to understand their bag specifications. Herb - Original Message - From: "Cotty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Pentax List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 18:03 Subject: OT: Crumpler bags > Actually I was thinking of replacing my long-in-tooth LL Bean computer > carryall soon, and was looking at either a Spire USA bag, or now maybe a > Crumpler. But...a bag called 'McBain's Love Child' ?? What in blazes is > going on there? Too many blooming tinny's !
Re: OT: In defense of Pacific Image Scanners
On 25 Mar 2003 10:56:55 -0600, you wrote: snip >I'm tied to vuescan because of >Linux. Ever think of using a cheapo non-linux computer to achieve your objective? Just a thought. Seems like the free OS is getting in the way of productivity. -- John Mustarde www.photolin.com
Re: OT: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't??
Ryan posted: > Sid Barras wrote: > > >HI, > >I tried sending a post just then with a web site link, and it got bounced > >back for having "enriched text." I assume the bounce was talking about the > >link I included in the letter. > >But I see posts all the time with "hot links." What am I doing wrong? > >Sid > > > > > > > Tell your mail program to send it in Plain Text. (usually a menu option) > For the record, AOL doesn't allow the user to send Plain Text. Perhaps it's not the only program with this limitation.
Re: Complaints
Herb wrote: > i want to find a plain back for my ZX-5n so that i can remove the data back. it is useless for me as it uses up the image area. Cheapest and easiest way to fix this is to turn the date function off. Next cheapest and easiest would be to remove the date-back's battery.
Re: More on incident metering
>> Despite the sophisticated EOS > > metering and the broad latitude of Tri-X he used a Minolta or Sekonic > > digital incident meter to measure the light coming over his shoulder. Thats actualy a pretty good idea to take the reading over your shoulder. I seem to use a incident meter %60 of the time when i'm out shooting and my exposures are definately more accurate. Definately going to try taking the reading over my shoulder. Regards, Paul
Re: Complaints
You can say it a million times, but that still won't make it true. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Not really, no. Most SLR's can be bought with or without data back. Haven't I said this already?
Re: Technical Pan OT
On March 25, 2003 05:08 am, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Any thoughts or comments before i possible waste some developing time. > BTW it's rated it at 50 with just a standard uv filter for the test. I forget but isn't that way too fast for Techpan? Nick
Re: More on incident metering
Hi, Tuesday, March 25, 2003, 10:05:52 PM, you wrote: > In December I saw War Photographer, a doc about the life and work or famed > PJ James Nachtweny. He was shooting in Bosnia , Rwanda, and Indonesia using > a Canon EOS. He uses Tri-X for most shots. Despite the sophisticated EOS > metering and the broad latitude of Tri-X he used a Minolta or Sekonic > digital incident meter to measure the light coming over his shoulder. I noticed the same thing. It seems to be quite common with the Magnum photographers. There was an article a year or 2 ago in one of the US photo magazines which showed a few pictures by different Magnum photographers, with them talking about how the picture was made. They nearly all said they used an incident meter. This despite them using very modern and well-equipped cameras. By the way, it's Nachtwey. Nachtweny is his fashion photographer cousin . -- Cheers, Bobmailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: OT: Camera Part Identification
>In the movie Galaxy Quest, >"Dr. Lazarus" carries this locator thingie when on the planet. >The hood looks like a Bronica ETR single-action flip-up waist-level hood. >Is that correct? Collin, you are the saddest poor little wretch I have ever read upon this list! Is this the best you can come up with to pass the time? My God! I've got a copy somewhere - haven't seen it yet - will report back :-) Cotty _ Oh swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps _ Free UK Mac Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ _
OT: Crumpler bags
I was filming a peace demo in Oxford recently and happened across a photographer from the Oxford Times. He was carrying a Crumpler bag and I was impressed with the styling and looks. Didn't have long to chat, and certainly didn't get time to ask about the Crumpler - any listers have any experience of these things? Australian aren't they? Actually I was thinking of replacing my long-in-tooth LL Bean computer carryall soon, and was looking at either a Spire USA bag, or now maybe a Crumpler. But...a bag called 'McBain's Love Child' ?? What in blazes is going on there? Too many blooming tinny's ! Cheers, Cotty _ Oh swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps _ Free UK Mac Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ _
Re: Good news and bad news
>This post underscores and boldfaces the true extent of this list. I had read >about a British ITV journalist being killed in Iraq and felt that it's a real >shame that anyone has to die in these conflicts. Now I learn that someone >I've come to "know" on this list over the past two years or so had met him. > >It's truly a small world and reading this list just brings it that much >closer to home. Truly, Christian. Wise words indeed. Gosh is it 2 years already? Feels more like ten . To all who have replied on list and off, thanks for the understanding words. Proud to be here. Best, Cotty _ Oh swipe me! He paints with light! http://www.macads.co.uk/snaps _ Free UK Mac Classified Ads at http://www.macads.co.uk/ _
Re: Pentax Teleconverters
Fred <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> I have the Pentax 1.7x AF converter and the two Sigma >> teleconverters (1.4x and 2x) that they make for their "big glass" >> (300/2.8, 500/4.5 and 800/5.6). > >Mark, are these Sigma TC's autofocus TC's, or manual focus (only) >TC's. And, do the Sigma TC's have the protuberances like the big >Pentax 'L' TC's do? They're both AF. Neither one protrudes like the Pentax "L" converters do, but the glass in the 2x comes right up to the flange, so it doesn't fit on some lenses. It'll barely go on the FA*80-200/2.8, but the lens can't achieve infinity focus with this TC attached (I have no idea why). I now use this TC only with the Sigma 300/2.8 (which is what it's designed for). I've never tried the 1.4x on anything other than the Sigma 300. -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: Hand Meters
I think that what you're saying is correct for unusual circumstances like those you mention: A sunset, light reflecting on water, extreme backlighting. For those situations, I too use a spotmeter and pick the spot that I want to be 18% reflectivity or the equivelant of gray. But for average lighting conditions, an incident meter is very easy to use and very accurate. Paul "Hagner, Andrew" wrote: > > Hi Bill: > > No confusion on my part but maybe my poor writing. You are correct by > saying "reflective meter measures light reflected from a subject, and an > incident meter measures the light falling on a subject". I maintain > however, that the reflective meter gives you more useful information than > incident meter. Many of my photographs could not have been measured using > an incident meter due to distance and wide range of contrast, often > excessive even for a B&W film. In which case I had to make decisions as to > what I should let go, shadows of highlights. > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > -Original Message- > From: Bill Owens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: March 24, 2003 6:36 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Hand Meters > > Andrew, > > See my earlier post on the subject. I think you are confused somewhat about > incident metering. Both a reflected meter and an incident meter measure > ambient light, the difference being that a reflective meter measures light > reflected from a subject, and an incident meter measures the light falling > on a subject. Overall, usually, most of the time. an incident meter > will be more accurate, assuming that the light falling on the dome of the > meter is in the same light as the subject. IOW, you point a reflective > meter at the subject, and an incident meter is placed near the subject and > pointed towards the camera. > > Hope this helps, > > Bill > - Original Message - > From: "Hagner, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 5:54 PM > Subject: RE: Hand Meters > > > Steve: > > > > The light that is recorded on film is the reflected light from your > subject. > > The ambient meters measure only ambient light and ignores the > > reflected light, so logically the reflected light meters give you > > information that > you > > actually need. Ambient meters, however work in many situations. When > > the contrast range is not exceeding the film contrast and when the > > same type > of > > light hits your subject as it hits your meter then the ambient meters > > are fine. When you are photographing a distant scene in an > > interesting light, it is likely that the light hitting your meter is > > very different from the one that is falling on the scene. In this > > case the ambient meter gives > you > > no useful information. If the scene exceeds the film contrast then > > again, ambient meter gives you information relevant to the middle > > tones but the highlight and shadows will be outside the films range. > > In this case the ambient meter gives you no information on the > > contrast range. > > > > So, my recommendation is to use a reflected spot meter which overcomes > these > > shortcomings. With little practice it is hard to make an error in > exposure > > provided the meter is linear and is properly calibrated. My favourite > > one is the Zone VI modified Pentax digital meter. Very simple, > > reliable and accurate. > > > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Steve Desjardins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: March 24, 2003 1:40 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Hand Meters > > > > > > What would folks recommend in a handmeter, spot or ambient? > > > > > > Steven Desjardins > > Department of Chemistry > > Washington and Lee University > > Lexington, VA 24450 > > (540) 458-8873 > > FAX: (540) 458-8878 > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >
OT: Power Thread - Battery Packs
Hi folks... In my quest for maintaining constant power to my numerous flashes (Metz and Vivitar) I'm curious to find out if any of you out there are using any Quantum Battery Packs. If you are, how do you like them? Which type are you using? As the spring and wedding season approach I know that sometimes NiMH may not be enough. Thanks a ton, Dave
Re: Hand Meters
- Original Message - From: "Paul Stenquist" Subject: Re: Hand Meters > True. I've found that guide numbers are usually optimistic. If you're > shooting transparency film, they are generally not sufficiently accurate. If you are going to use GN for flash calculation, you need a flash meter to claculate the GN for the individual unit, and then you need to measure the guide number for the specific location, as GN can change if the you have reflective walls or not. William Robb
Re: Complaints
- Original Message - From: "Roland Mabo" Subject: Re: Complaints > Not really, no. Most SLR's can be bought with or without data back. > Haven't I said this already? Depending on the country you are buying in, you may get the choice, you also may not. If the camera you want is on the pick list as a date model only for that distributor, then you either buy it with the date back and put up with it, or you buy something else. William Robb
Re: Hand Meters
Get one that does flash metering too. It's not always possible to see how flash is lighting something, but if you take multiple meter readings you can get an idea of how it will look. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Of course, I still think I'll buy one that does both . . .
How are these Tokina lenses?
Any one had experience with these two lenses? 1. 24-40 F2.8 TOKINA AT-X A (72) 2. 28-70 F2.8 TOKINA ATX AUTO FOCUS (72) How good are these compared to Pentax lenses's optics or build? The speed of 2.8 is quite appealing. Thanks, Tonghang
Re: Hand Meters
Steve Desjardins wrote: > Why,however, does this imply that a reflected light reading can be prone to > huge inaccuracies, but the incident sensor is not? Quite simply because the reflected light reading is dependent on the reflectivity of the object being photographed. The incident reading, on the other hand, measures the amount of light available. The amount of light available is the key to representing tonal values accurately in the photograph. Paul
Re: A Real hand meter
Bill Lawlor wrote: > > Incident meters measure the light falling on the meter cell. Pedantically speaking, incident meters measure light falling on an attached hemispherical (dome-shaped) plastic insert, which the cell then reads. Sorry, but this is true. The light from the sky never falls on the meter cell... > An alternative is to use a camera built-in meter to > measure the light falling on a 18% gray card. You mean, light "reflected from," don't you? Gee, now I'm sorry again! > I carry a small one in my bag. An alternative is to measure the > light falling on the palm of your hand and then open up one stop to > approximate an 18% card. I sometimes forget the gray card but I always > remember my hands. Now bracket the shot! Nothing against you, Bill... I think you're a nice guy! keith whaley
Re: Complaints
Well, I hate those built in flash units. I have no use for 90% of the things folks on this list just love. I understand that date backs are very popular in Japan. Here we are lined up in the mall we visited on 13 September 1994. And here we are lined up in front of the Lion cage at the zoo on 1 May 2000 (mayday, mayday, I cain't stand it no more). At this point I think we would be better off with a political/religious thread it would be more interesting. But this is a typical PDML thread. It is called analyzing the nonexistent camera. Once the camera is on the shelves no one has much to say about it. And, yes, I know, I do it too. Ciao, Graywolf http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto - Original Message - From: "Bruce Rubenstein" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 5:35 PM Subject: Re: Complaints > Because that's the only way it comes! > It's another useless feature buyers get stuck with. > > BR > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > > > If that is so, how come that customers actually buys the data version? > > >
Re: Complaints
I feel a counter-opinion is required :) Actually, I appreciate the date back on the MZ-S. I use it rarely, however it is quite handy at times. Since my work involves lots of travelling, and since I always bring a camera along, I usually use the date-function to keep track on where I was when: taking the first shot(s) of the day of easilly recognizeable landmark and imprinting the date makes organizing slides so much easier. Similarly for recalling memories when viewing the slides years later :) I don't use the date stuff much, but it is definitely something I'd not like to be without. If I had the choise, I would still pick the MZ-S with date back. --thomas On Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:35:08 -0500 "Kenneth Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I had no choice when I picked up my MZ-S, AFAIK there is no other > back for that camera. IMHO, the date backs, recently available > from, Pentax are really useless on camera of this level (PZ1, PZ1P, > MZ-S etc.) If you want to date stamp a photo buy a good point and > shoot. An excellent data back was available for the SF1, it has > several modes of date and time imprinting along with sequential > imprinting - A- 00 through something like G -99. Kenneth Waller > - Original Message - > From: "Roland Mabo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 5:13 PM > Subject: Re: Complaints > snip, snip, snip > > > and they're making money on them because some people actually > > finds it useful. If not, why did they buy it? > -- --- Thomas Heide Clausen Civilingeniør i Datateknik (cand.polyt) M.Sc in Computer Engineering E-Mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW:http://www.cs.auc.dk/~voop ---
Technical Pan OT
Hi all. My darkroom instructor suggested i try a roll of TP.A lot of my B&W stuff is rural,old farms etc and he suggested it would be a good film to try as it can be shot at a low speed and obtain good clear prints. I shot one about 2.5 weeks ago,but like any good male,i read the instructions AFTER i loaded it.The info on Kodaks website suggests to load and unload in complete darkness.I unfortunalte loaded it in subdued light in my bathroom. Am i s***ed here or will this little amount of light not effect much.I wondered about it as the package is translucent,not solid like the HIE films. Any thoughts or comments before i possible waste some developing time. BTW it's rated it at 50 with just a standard uv filter for the test. Dave(2 classes to go,boo hoo)Brooks
Re: How are these Tokina lenses?
- Original Message - From: "Tonghang Zhou" Subject: How are these Tokina lenses? > > Any one had experience with these two lenses? > > 1. 24-40 F2.8 TOKINA AT-X A (72) Good build, consistent with Tokina, very sharp, nice contrast and flare control, but lots of barrel distortion. I had one for a couple of weeks, then sold it and bought an A series 24mm lens instead. William Robb
Re: Kodak "High Definition" 400 speed film?
Kodak seemed to have the habit of keep relabeling their films. regards, Alan Chan Yes, it is a print film. Yes, it is now labeled as "High Defintion". I think it is just Royal Gold re-named... _ The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
Re: Complaints
The MZ-S comes with a data back, but other Pentax models can be bought with or without - except for the *ist. The MZ-S is a special case, I believe it's the databack that does the exposure data imprinting between the film frames, and when they put this in the camera - I believe they thought that "let's do it so it can imprint date also, when we're on it anyway"... I have no databack in my MZ-5n. EOS 30/33, 300/300V, 3000, Nikon F55, F65, F75, Minolta Dynax 3, 4, 5, Pentax MZ-60, MZ-7, MZ-6, MZ-5n, MZ-3 - can all be bought with or without data back. And if you have bought the non-date version, but really wants the data back - this can often be bought as a separate accessory. Many dislikes databacks, but obviously some people likes it. Best wishes, Rolnad From: "Kenneth Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Complaints Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:35:08 -0500 I had no choice when I picked up my MZ-S, AFAIK there is no other back for that camera. IMHO, the date backs, recently available from, Pentax are really useless on camera of this level (PZ1, PZ1P, MZ-S etc.) If you want to date stamp a photo buy a good point and shoot. An excellent data back was available for the SF1, it has several modes of date and time imprinting along with sequential imprinting - A- 00 through something like G -99. Kenneth Waller - Original Message - From: "Roland Mabo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 5:13 PM Subject: Re: Complaints snip, snip, snip > and they're making money on them because some people actually > finds it useful. If not, why did they buy it? _ Hitta rätt på nätet med MSN Sök http://search.msn.se/
Re: Hand Meters
True. I've found that guide numbers are usually optimistic. If you're shooting transparency film, they are generally not sufficiently accurate. Paul Bruce Rubenstein wrote: > > You can work with one, maybe two lights like this. When working with > more than that (lighting a room can easily use 6 - for stills) you need > a flash meter. Guide numbers also only work if you know the true GN of > the flash. > > BR > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > >BTW, The "metering" method I usually use for flash works FANTASTIC. > >It's called guide # !! > >
Re: A Real hand meter
But my camera don't have a built in meter . Ciao, Graywolf http://pages.prodigy.net/graywolfphoto - Original Message - From: "Bill Lawlor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 4:50 PM Subject: Re: A Real hand meter > Incident meters measure the light falling on the meter cell. An alternative > is to use a camera built-in meter to measure the light falling on a 18% > gray card. I carry a small one in my bag. An alternative is to measure the > light falling on the palm of your hand and then open up one stop to > approximate an 18% card. I sometimes forget the gray card but I always > remember my hands. Now bracket the shot! > Bill Lawlor > >
OT: Spot attachment for the Minolta IVF meter
Hi; All this meter talk brought up an old question for me. Does anyone have any experience with the 5 degree spot attachment for the Minolta IVF meter. Is it useful as a spot meter? How well does it work compared to a dedicated spot meter? BUTCH Each man had only one genuine vocation - to find the way to himself. Hermann Hess (Damien)
Re: Complaints
Not really, no. Most SLR's can be bought with or without data back. Haven't I said this already? Best wishes, Roland From: Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Complaints Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 17:35:27 -0500 Because that's the only way it comes! It's another useless feature buyers get stuck with. _ Lättare att hitta drömresan med MSN Resor http://www.msn.se/resor/
Re: Complaints
Makes the image much neater w/o the red or yellow time/date stamp on it! Bill - Original Message - From: "Raimo Korhonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 4:14 PM Subject: Vs: Complaints > So how does it affect the image if it´s off? > All the best! > Raimo > Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho > > -Alkuperäinen viesti- > Lähettäjä: Herb Chong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Vastaanottaja: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Päivä: 25. maaliskuuta 2003 19:51 > Aihe: Re: Complaints > > > >that isn't the point. it is off all the time. > > > >Herb > >- Original Message - > >From: "Raimo Korhonen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 14:19 > >Subject: Vs: Complaints > > > > > >> No, it does not. You can turn it off. > >> The data back on my MZ-S has never been on. > >> All the best! > >> Raimo > >> Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho > > > > >
Re: CAVE Academy Award: Re: Complaints
"Kenneth Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Yeah, you coild say its DATED. Well, that was a pretty week pun... :-P >Kenneth Waller >- Original Message - >From: "Chris Brogden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 1:38 PM >Subject: Re: CAVE Academy Award: Re: Complaints > > >> On Tue, 25 Mar 2003, Caveman wrote: >> >> > The "Complaints" thread gets now the Cave Academy Award for the >> > longest useless boring thread of March. >> >> Well, start an exciting one then. This one has a promising beginning, but >> I see it getting cliched pretty quickly. >> >> chris >> >> -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: Kodak "High Definition" 400 speed film?
Yes, it is a print film. Yes, it is now labeled as "High Defintion". I think it is just Royal Gold re-named... --- Keith Whaley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Is that what it's called? > A print film? > > keith whaley > > Steve Pearson wrote: > > > > Guys at my local camera store say this is a fairly > new > > film, that is very good. Bought a 3 pack to try > it, > > instead of the Portra 400VC. Anyone out there > tried > > this new "High Defintion" film yet? If so, how > did > > you like the results, and what ISO did you use? > __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Platinum - Watch CBS' NCAA March Madness, live on your desktop! http://platinum.yahoo.com
Re: Complaints
I had no choice when I picked up my MZ-S, AFAIK there is no other back for that camera. IMHO, the date backs, recently available from, Pentax are really useless on camera of this level (PZ1, PZ1P, MZ-S etc.) If you want to date stamp a photo buy a good point and shoot. An excellent data back was available for the SF1, it has several modes of date and time imprinting along with sequential imprinting - A- 00 through something like G -99. Kenneth Waller - Original Message - From: "Roland Mabo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 5:13 PM Subject: Re: Complaints snip, snip, snip > and they're making money on them because some people actually > finds it useful. If not, why did they buy it?
Re: Complaints
Because that's the only way it comes! It's another useless feature buyers get stuck with. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: If that is so, how come that customers actually buys the data version?
Re: CAVE Academy Award: Re: Complaints
Yeah, you coild say its DATED. Kenneth Waller - Original Message - From: "Chris Brogden" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 1:38 PM Subject: Re: CAVE Academy Award: Re: Complaints > On Tue, 25 Mar 2003, Caveman wrote: > > > The "Complaints" thread gets now the Cave Academy Award for the > > longest useless boring thread of March. > > Well, start an exciting one then. This one has a promising beginning, but > I see it getting cliched pretty quickly. > > chris > >
Re: Complaints
From: Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 16:10:32 -0500 Not most! Usually only models that have "Dummy" auto modes have date in the picture printing. It's a low to mid-range, Gadget Freak frill. I meant "most" because it exist more models with optional databacks than models that can't be fitted with a data back. Only the semipro and pro models lacks a data back. As you say - low to mid-range bodies has databacks as an option. And there's more low to mid range bodies than pro and semi pro models on the market. Best wishes, Roland _ Hitta rätt på nätet med MSN Sök http://search.msn.se/
Re: Complaints
From: Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 12:29:21 -0500 On these types of cameras it prints the date and maybe time, but no exposure info, in a visible portion of the picture. What most people want to know is, "How do I turn off this stupid thing that ruined all my pictures?" If that is so, how come that customers actually buys the data version? With most cameras, you have an option. You can buy one with or without. I believe camera maker makes versions with data back because they're making money on them, and they're making money on them because some people actually finds it useful. If not, why did they buy it? Best wishes, Roland _ Hitta rätt köpare på MSN Köp & Sälj http://www.msn.se/koposalj
Re: Kodak "High Definition" 400 speed film?
Is that what it's called? A print film? keith whaley Steve Pearson wrote: > > Guys at my local camera store say this is a fairly new > film, that is very good. Bought a 3 pack to try it, > instead of the Portra 400VC. Anyone out there tried > this new "High Defintion" film yet? If so, how did > you like the results, and what ISO did you use?
Re: More on incident metering
In December I saw War Photographer, a doc about the life and work or famed PJ James Nachtweny. He was shooting in Bosnia , Rwanda, and Indonesia using a Canon EOS. He uses Tri-X for most shots. Despite the sophisticated EOS metering and the broad latitude of Tri-X he used a Minolta or Sekonic digital incident meter to measure the light coming over his shoulder. Bill Lawlor
Re: OT: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't??
To supplement Ryan: links will still show up underlined and hot-linked in plain text. Maris Ryan K. Brooks wrote: > Sid Barras wrote: > >> HI, >> I tried sending a post just then with a web site link, and it got >> bounced back for having "enriched text." I assume the bounce was >> talking about the link I included in the letter. >> But I see posts all the time with "hot links." What am I doing wrong? >> Sid >> >> >> > Tell your mail program to send it in Plain Text. (usually a menu > option)
Re: Hand Meters
It's always a good day when I learn something, and this has been bothering me for a while. Not many explanations of this that I have found clearly state why one is better than the other. Of course, I still think I'll buy one that does both . . . Steven Desjardins Department of Chemistry Washington and Lee University Lexington, VA 24450 (540) 458-8873 FAX: (540) 458-8878 [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 03/25/03 12:06PM >>> Good explanation, Bruce. Bill > Sort of. An incident meter "reads" the amount of light and gives an EV > based on that reading. Set the camera according to the reading and white > comes out white, grey comes out grey and black comes out black. Use a > reflected light meter the same way and white comes out grey, grey comes > out grey, and black comes out grey. With a reflected light meter you > have to be able to guess what reflects 18% of the light to get a proper, > overall meter reading. > Spot reflected light readings are good for determining the dynamic range > of a scene. It takes more experience, and particular circumstances, to > make good use of a spot meter. > > BR > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > The incident reading is better because it is > >easier to use the result without making a mistake? Sorry I'm being so > >dense about this, but this is an important thing to get right. > > > > > > > >
Re: OT: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't??
Sid Barras wrote: HI, I tried sending a post just then with a web site link, and it got bounced back for having "enriched text." I assume the bounce was talking about the link I included in the letter. But I see posts all the time with "hot links." What am I doing wrong? Sid Tell your mail program to send it in Plain Text. (usually a menu option)
Re: a real bargain - mine!!
On Tue, 25 Mar 2003, Sid Barras wrote: > Got a 105WR instead, at a very attractive price, wouldn't you say? > Sid Not bad at all, Sid. The 105WR is a good camera to use when you want something tough, but you don't want to cry for too long if you break it. I picked up a Canon WP-1 the other day for $40 CAN to do the same thing. It's red, white and gray (looks like a kid's toy), but they're super tough and quite water-resistant. I can't see any difference between it and their A1 (underwater camera). Large viewfinder, 32mm f3.5 lens, close-focusing distance of 1.5 feet on 'macro' mode. Haven't put any film through it yet, but I will soon. chris
Re: Re: Pentax Stereo Adapter
It -is- fun! I like especially the pics of my sons when they were childs. You should look whether the viewer is added, can be used with slides only. You can learn to look at prints, too, without any equipment, after you have trained your eyes. I do it because I almost never use slide films. But once I tried it to use this toy and the effect is great! You can find some pics at my homepage www.bienenbernd.de -> "Photographie" -> "Stereo-Photos" sorry for being only in german (I haven't found the time yet to make an english version). Best regards Bernd ---original message--- From: frank theriault Subject: Re: Pentax Stereo Adapter Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2003 18:30:06 -0800 I'll definitely shoot a roll or two if I do pick it up. I think this thing just screws onto any 49mm filter ring. Could be fun! -frank
Re: complaints
<< The B&H current price is quite a bit lower then Jessops in the UK. I say current because until they actually change it from coming soon to selling now anything can change. >> Might that not also be to do with Retail Price Maintenance, aka Minimum Advertised Price, aka price fixing? Kind regards from an independent sunny Brighton Peter
RE: Hand Meters
Steve: We all have been in your situation at time or another. I think we can give you all the reasons for using one type of a meter or the other according to our experience. But perhaps it would be useful to do some serious reading on the subject and make your decision then. Ansel Adams' "The Negative" is a good start. Fred Picker wrote extensively on the subject in his newsletters and in his books. These were my main sources some years ago and the measuring technique using a reflected light spotmeter is simple and very reliable. No huge inaccuracies or huge misinterpretations, but there is a bit of a learning curve. You are obviously outgrowing the build in camera meter and hence are looking for more accurate or interpretative light measuring method and device. The Zone VI modified Pentax digital spotmeter has served me well for many years and it may still be available from Calumet. But before you buy, I think it would be wise to read up on the theory and practice and see if it would suit your working style. The Zone VI newsletters are out of print but I still have a nearly complete set. I could search the ones on the topic and send you relevant copies, if you like. Let me know. Cheers, - Andrew. -Original Message- From: Steve Desjardins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: March 25, 2003 10:58 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Hand Meters Y'all will have to excuse me if I seem to be struggling with this, but I am. There seems to be some agreement (but not all) that an incident light reading gives "better" (more consistent?) exposure than a reflected light reading. I read that part about the color response of the sensor matching the character of the light. That makes sense. Why, however, does this imply that a reflected light reading can be prone to huge inaccuracies, but the incident sensor is not? Wouldn't the sensor problem affect both readings in the same way? I also realize that it very easy to misuse a spot meter reading since you have to understand at least some primitive version of the zone system. The meter tries to make the area being read reproduced on film as 18% gray (actually, I read somewhere that it should really be about 13%). You obviously have to make adjustments so that the highlights and shadows come out correctly, and this requires some thought and understanding. The incident reading, OTOH, is simple since there is only one kind of light striking the scene. As long as the meter is correctly oriented, there is only one possible reading to make. It this the trick then? The incident reading is better because it is easier to use the result without making a mistake? Sorry I'm being so dense about this, but this is an important thing to get right.
Re: OT: In defense of Pacific Image Scanners
Levente -Levi- Littvay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> That's probably the Scan Dual II, which is supported by Vuescan. > >The problem I have is Scan Dual II or III is that it does not batchscan >whole rolls. > >The reason I was looking at the Kodak 3600 and the Pacific Image ones >because they batchscan whole rolls. But I'm tied to vuescan because of >Linux. > >Is there another vuescan supported scanner that scans whole rolls and >sells for a 3 digit dollar fiugure? (I don't care if it's >discontinued... I'll buy it used...) Don't think there any others available in your price range, new or used. -- Mark Roberts Photography and writing www.robertstech.com
Re: Hand Meters
Sorry I made a mistake - for 80% read 20%. ___ Dr E D F Williams http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams Author's Web Site and Photo Gallery Updated: March 30, 2002 - Original Message - From: "Dr E D F Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 7:31 PM Subject: Re: Hand Meters > It is possible to evaluate the contrast range of a scene by viewing it > through a neutral density filter. I use two, one transmits about 50% the > other 80%. Its quite easy to see where the highlights and the shadows are if > you reduce the overall brightness of the scene. You can also use a couple of > polarizer's one screwed into the other. Rotate one until the brightness is > reduced enough for you to see the range. For the slowest slide films the > highlights should not be more than about 3 times as bright as the shadows - > I think - a ratio of about 3:1. For the faster negative films the ratio can > be > as much as 7:1 i.e. the highlights can be 7 times as bright as the shadows. > Of course a spot meter will do the job, but the filters allow an 'artistic' > evaluation of the scene - something a meter can't do for you. Movie > directors and cameramen have viewfinders with built in ND filters for this > job. > > Don > > ___ > Dr E D F Williams > http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams > Author's Web Site and Photo Gallery > Updated: March 30, 2002 > > > - Original Message - > From: "Hagner, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 7:01 PM > Subject: RE: Hand Meters > > > > Hi Bill: > > > > No confusion on my part but maybe my poor writing. You are correct by > > saying "reflective meter measures light reflected from a subject, and an > > incident meter measures the light falling on a subject". I maintain > > however, that the reflective meter gives you more useful information than > > incident meter. Many of my photographs could not have been measured using > > an incident meter due to distance and wide range of contrast, often > > excessive even for a B&W film. In which case I had to make decisions as > to > > what I should let go, shadows of highlights. > > > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Bill Owens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: March 24, 2003 6:36 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: Hand Meters > > > > > > Andrew, > > > > See my earlier post on the subject. I think you are confused somewhat > about > > incident metering. Both a reflected meter and an incident meter measure > > ambient light, the difference being that a reflective meter measures light > > reflected from a subject, and an incident meter measures the light falling > > on a subject. Overall, usually, most of the time. an incident meter > > will be more accurate, assuming that the light falling on the dome of the > > meter is in the same light as the subject. IOW, you point a reflective > > meter at the subject, and an incident meter is placed near the subject and > > pointed towards the camera. > > > > Hope this helps, > > > > Bill > > - Original Message - > > From: "Hagner, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 5:54 PM > > Subject: RE: Hand Meters > > > > > > > Steve: > > > > > > The light that is recorded on film is the reflected light from your > > subject. > > > The ambient meters measure only ambient light and ignores the > > > reflected light, so logically the reflected light meters give you > > > information that > > you > > > actually need. Ambient meters, however work in many situations. When > > > the contrast range is not exceeding the film contrast and when the > > > same type > > of > > > light hits your subject as it hits your meter then the ambient meters > > > are fine. When you are photographing a distant scene in an > > > interesting light, it is likely that the light hitting your meter is > > > very different from the one that is falling on the scene. In this > > > case the ambient meter gives > > you > > > no useful information. If the scene exceeds the film contrast then > > > again, ambient meter gives you information relevant to the middle > > > tones but the highlight and shadows will be outside the films range. > > > In this case the ambient meter gives you no information on the > > > contrast range. > > > > > > So, my recommendation is to use a reflected spot meter which overcomes > > these > > > shortcomings. With little practice it is hard to make an error in > > exposure > > > provided the meter is linear and is properly calibrated. My favourite > > > one is the Zone VI modified Pentax digital meter. Very simple, > > > reliable and accurate. > > > > > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: Steve Desjardins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Sent: March 24, 2003 1:40 PM > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Subject: Hand Meters > > > > > > >
Re: Hand Meters
It is possible to evaluate the contrast range of a scene by viewing it through a neutral density filter. I use two, one transmits about 50% the other 80%. Its quite easy to see where the highlights and the shadows are if you reduce the overall brightness of the scene. You can also use a couple of polarizer's one screwed into the other. Rotate one until the brightness is reduced enough for you to see the range. For the slowest slide films the highlights should not be more than about 3 times as bright as the shadows - I think - a ratio of about 3:1. For the faster negative films the ratio can be as much as 7:1 i.e. the highlights can be 7 times as bright as the shadows. Of course a spot meter will do the job, but the filters allow an 'artistic' evaluation of the scene - something a meter can't do for you. Movie directors and cameramen have viewfinders with built in ND filters for this job. Don ___ Dr E D F Williams http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams Author's Web Site and Photo Gallery Updated: March 30, 2002 - Original Message - From: "Hagner, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 7:01 PM Subject: RE: Hand Meters > Hi Bill: > > No confusion on my part but maybe my poor writing. You are correct by > saying "reflective meter measures light reflected from a subject, and an > incident meter measures the light falling on a subject". I maintain > however, that the reflective meter gives you more useful information than > incident meter. Many of my photographs could not have been measured using > an incident meter due to distance and wide range of contrast, often > excessive even for a B&W film. In which case I had to make decisions as to > what I should let go, shadows of highlights. > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > -Original Message- > From: Bill Owens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: March 24, 2003 6:36 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Hand Meters > > > Andrew, > > See my earlier post on the subject. I think you are confused somewhat about > incident metering. Both a reflected meter and an incident meter measure > ambient light, the difference being that a reflective meter measures light > reflected from a subject, and an incident meter measures the light falling > on a subject. Overall, usually, most of the time. an incident meter > will be more accurate, assuming that the light falling on the dome of the > meter is in the same light as the subject. IOW, you point a reflective > meter at the subject, and an incident meter is placed near the subject and > pointed towards the camera. > > Hope this helps, > > Bill > - Original Message - > From: "Hagner, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 5:54 PM > Subject: RE: Hand Meters > > > > Steve: > > > > The light that is recorded on film is the reflected light from your > subject. > > The ambient meters measure only ambient light and ignores the > > reflected light, so logically the reflected light meters give you > > information that > you > > actually need. Ambient meters, however work in many situations. When > > the contrast range is not exceeding the film contrast and when the > > same type > of > > light hits your subject as it hits your meter then the ambient meters > > are fine. When you are photographing a distant scene in an > > interesting light, it is likely that the light hitting your meter is > > very different from the one that is falling on the scene. In this > > case the ambient meter gives > you > > no useful information. If the scene exceeds the film contrast then > > again, ambient meter gives you information relevant to the middle > > tones but the highlight and shadows will be outside the films range. > > In this case the ambient meter gives you no information on the > > contrast range. > > > > So, my recommendation is to use a reflected spot meter which overcomes > these > > shortcomings. With little practice it is hard to make an error in > exposure > > provided the meter is linear and is properly calibrated. My favourite > > one is the Zone VI modified Pentax digital meter. Very simple, > > reliable and accurate. > > > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Steve Desjardins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Sent: March 24, 2003 1:40 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Hand Meters > > > > > > What would folks recommend in a handmeter, spot or ambient? > > > > > > Steven Desjardins > > Department of Chemistry > > Washington and Lee University > > Lexington, VA 24450 > > (540) 458-8873 > > FAX: (540) 458-8878 > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > >
Re: Complaints
On these types of cameras it prints the date and maybe time, but no exposure info, in a visible portion of the picture. What most people want to know is, "How do I turn off this stupid thing that ruined all my pictures?" BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: How much is the date feature worth to people? If all it does is record the date it's worth nothing to me. If it records things like F stop and shutter speed it's worth something. But am I going to pay extra for it? Not likely. Nick
Re: OK, how do some people send HTML links to PDML, and I can't??
Sid, it's your mail reader automatically creating the links for things that start with http:// or mailto:
Re: Complaints
i want to find a plain back for my ZX-5n so that i can remove the data back. it is useless for me as it uses up the image area. Herb - Original Message - From: "David Chang-Sang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 12:08 Subject: RE: Complaints > I've been staying out of this one for the most part but I must agree with > Bruce here. > The Date Function, while it may be handy for some, is sort of pointless in > my books. > The Contax G2 data back gave a lot more information - exposure info for > example - that may be more useful and it imprinted it between frames (IIRC). > That would be something a lot more useful than knowing the date of the image > as far as I'm concerned.
Re: a real bargain - mine!!
Sid. I remember the 90WR. Before Camera Direct, I worked for 'another retailer'. Pentax UK sent us a counter display for the 90WR, comprising a miniature rock garden with pool, pump, and floating tap. The 90 sat in the pool, whilst being doused with a stream of water. Very nice too, until someone decided that water should be irridescent blue. Using Colorvir polychrome blue dye, we gradually turned that fetching shade of grey into something far less attractive. Of course the camera still operated, although you really had to put on rubber gloves to hold it. Kind regards Peter
Re: Complaints
From: Nick Zentena <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 11:57:03 -0500 The B&H current price is quite a bit lower then Jessops in the UK. I >say current because until they actually change it from coming soon to >selling now anything can change. Cameras are less expensive in U.S than in Great Britain. The pricing isn't really comparable. But it's interesting that the price of the *ist is closer to the EOS 30 in the U.S, and closer to the EOS 300V in Europe. Best wishes, Roland _ Hitta rätt på nätet med MSN Sök http://search.msn.se/
RE: Complaints
From: "David Chang-Sang" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 12:08:00 -0500 I don't ever recall talking to anyone who was purchasing a camera that >the date function was going to be a "make or break" item. Then why does it exist as an option to most SLR's? I believe it must exist those who finds it important. Not everyone buys the non-data model... :-) I have never said that date is essential, but we simply has to accept the fact that the *ist can't be bought without one. The "feature" can be turned off. It's not in the way. I believe it was easier and simpler to build it into the body from start instead of offering it as an add-on piece. Best wishes, Roland _ Hitta rätt på nätet med MSN Sök http://search.msn.se/
SV: Hand Meters
Hi About incident metering and 18% grey. Only if you use a meter, not made for incident metering, the question about the angle, in which to point the meter, may be crutial, I think. But when using a meter with a spherical or invercone diffuser (meters made for Incident Metering usually have one) it will "catch the light" and measure the light hitting in from diffenrent directions. Your rule sounds like a fine rule of thumb, though. If I have a visible sun, I try not to point the meter directly at the sun - just at the blue sky. When measuring off a grey card, I try to have the card tilted to point somewhere between the optical axes and the light source. I only use a grey card when it's obvious, that "18% grey" will not work - i.e. photographing white sheets of paper (drawings etc.) or very dark subjects, or group portraits in front of a very bright or dark background. Incident metering sounds complicated. But in everyday photographing it's really very simple. Much more simple, than all the sofisticated contrast, matrix, spot mumbo jumbo of modern cameras, trying to do all the thinking for you. Remember this: No camera has anyway of knowing, if you are photographing a White Door or a Black Horse! You have to know! In the same light, they both require exactly the same exposure value! Reflected metering will - in both cases - result in over- or under exposure - to make both the door and the horse - well, yes: 18% grey! Regards Jens -Oprindelig meddelelse- Fra: Dr E D F Williams [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sendt: 25. marts 2003 06:55 Til: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Emne: Re: Hand Meters I have two light meters: (1) A simple Weston master that I've had for many years and still use; only for incident light with the Invercone attached. Its not suitable for _very_ low light conditions, but matches readings from the other meter I use (2) when there is a decent amount of light. (2) A Sekonic Digilite F which measures flash, incident and reflected light. I hardly ever use a hand meter for measuring reflected light, the cameras do that reasonably well. An interesting question is - where do you aim the meter to measure incident light? movie or TV cameramen will probably tell you at right angles to a line drawn between the camera and the subject on the side from which the light emanates. That's what I do - something I learned when working with a BBC TV crew just about the time colour TV was introduced in the UK. Where you measure depends on the contrast range of course. When the light is directly behind the camera, I point the meter towards the light source. Grey cards are useful inside a studio or laboratory, but are a nuisance outdoors. The cards I've used were 8 x 10 and too big to be convenient. The reverse side of a grey card is usually white and can be used, with the grey side, to make some intelligent approximations of something or other (contrast range?) ... I've forgotten the details, but someone else will know. I recommend the Sekonic. The meter uses one AA battery that lasts for ages. Its a reliable meter and I've used mine for about 12 years. I can't remember what it cost - about 200 Euros maybe? By the way, this one can be fitted with a spot-meter attachment. Don ___ Dr E D F Williams http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams Author's Web Site and Photo Gallery Updated: March 30, 2002 - Original Message - From: "Paul Stenquist" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 10:03 PM Subject: Re: Hand Meters > Because the amount of reflected light is dependent on the reflectivity > of the subject. If you're shooting a white subject, such as a snowdrift, > the reflective meter will want to render it as 18% gray, the value to > which meters are generally calibrated. An incident meter will measure > only the light, and your snowdrift will be recorded as snow white. > Paul > > Steve Desjardins wrote: > > > > OK, I'll ask the obvious question and "expose" my true ignorance. Why > > is the incident light a "better" reading? After all, it's reflected > > light that going to hit the film, no matter what is hitting the subject. > > It's also the reflected light that hits my eye. > > > > Always wanted to ask this question . . . > > > > Steven Desjardins > > Department of Chemistry > > Washington and Lee University > > Lexington, VA 24450 > > (540) 458-8873 > > FAX: (540) 458-8878 > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] >
Re: Pentax Stereo Adapter
Chris Brogden wrote: One sold recently on eBay for $114 US, so they're worth a bit now. I remember a few years ago we had two at work that we couldn't sell, even at $100 CAN. Chris, What other toys do you still hide there in the shop ? Any nice used Pentax gear ? cheers, caveman
Re: Complaints
From: Nick Zentena <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 11:58:55 -0500 How much is the date feature worth to people? All big makers has SLR's with data backs. Seems to me like some customers wants it. If not, why does the option exist if they makers are only loosing money on it? I believe Pentax made data back as standard because it was less expensive this way. Well, I believe it's more useful than the Panorama facility that some MZ/ZX-bodies had. The *ist seems to lack Panorama (even if you buy it Adorama, hey that's funny. :-) ) Best wishes, Roland _ Hitta rätt köpare på MSN Köp & Sälj http://www.msn.se/koposalj
Re: OT: In defense of Pacific Image Scanners
> That's probably the Scan Dual II, which is supported by Vuescan. The problem I have is Scan Dual II or III is that it does not batchscan whole rolls. The reason I was looking at the Kodak 3600 and the Pacific Image ones because they batchscan whole rolls. But I'm tied to vuescan because of Linux. Is there another vuescan supported scanner that scans whole rolls and sells for a 3 digit dollar fiugure? (I don't care if it's discontinued... I'll buy it used...) L
Re: Complaints
Date might be more popular in Japan than in the U.S. I believe Pentax decided to have it as standard, was to save cost. It cost money to make an add-on, it's less expensive to include it with the body from start. Since they already had planned the LCD panel to be at the back, they could use the existing display instead of adding a new one. I have no use for QD-backs, but I believe some may. Best wishes, Roland From: Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Complaints Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 11:39:44 -0500 In the US, only the 7E model can be had with the date option. It is a virtually worthless option for SLRs. Unless you have some very special need it is only for the P&S crowd. The date function will not sell more *ists vis-a-vis the Elan 7. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:53:53 -0500 They're only $40 (not the E version) apart here, and the Canon name is worth $40 to a lot of people. Do you compare date models? The *ist comes with a data back as standard, it can't be bought without one. You must compare with date models from the competition. Best wishes, Roland _ Hitta rätt på nätet med MSN Sök http://search.msn.se/ _ Lättare att hitta drömresan med MSN Resor http://www.msn.se/resor/
Re: Hand Meters
Good explanation, Bruce. Bill > Sort of. An incident meter "reads" the amount of light and gives an EV > based on that reading. Set the camera according to the reading and white > comes out white, grey comes out grey and black comes out black. Use a > reflected light meter the same way and white comes out grey, grey comes > out grey, and black comes out grey. With a reflected light meter you > have to be able to guess what reflects 18% of the light to get a proper, > overall meter reading. > Spot reflected light readings are good for determining the dynamic range > of a scene. It takes more experience, and particular circumstances, to > make good use of a spot meter. > > BR > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > > The incident reading is better because it is > >easier to use the result without making a mistake? Sorry I'm being so > >dense about this, but this is an important thing to get right. > > > > > > > >
RE: Hand Meters
Hi Bill: No confusion on my part but maybe my poor writing. You are correct by saying "reflective meter measures light reflected from a subject, and an incident meter measures the light falling on a subject". I maintain however, that the reflective meter gives you more useful information than incident meter. Many of my photographs could not have been measured using an incident meter due to distance and wide range of contrast, often excessive even for a B&W film. In which case I had to make decisions as to what I should let go, shadows of highlights. Cheers, - Andrew. -Original Message- From: Bill Owens [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: March 24, 2003 6:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Hand Meters Andrew, See my earlier post on the subject. I think you are confused somewhat about incident metering. Both a reflected meter and an incident meter measure ambient light, the difference being that a reflective meter measures light reflected from a subject, and an incident meter measures the light falling on a subject. Overall, usually, most of the time. an incident meter will be more accurate, assuming that the light falling on the dome of the meter is in the same light as the subject. IOW, you point a reflective meter at the subject, and an incident meter is placed near the subject and pointed towards the camera. Hope this helps, Bill - Original Message - From: "Hagner, Andrew" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2003 5:54 PM Subject: RE: Hand Meters > Steve: > > The light that is recorded on film is the reflected light from your subject. > The ambient meters measure only ambient light and ignores the > reflected light, so logically the reflected light meters give you > information that you > actually need. Ambient meters, however work in many situations. When > the contrast range is not exceeding the film contrast and when the > same type of > light hits your subject as it hits your meter then the ambient meters > are fine. When you are photographing a distant scene in an > interesting light, it is likely that the light hitting your meter is > very different from the one that is falling on the scene. In this > case the ambient meter gives you > no useful information. If the scene exceeds the film contrast then > again, ambient meter gives you information relevant to the middle > tones but the highlight and shadows will be outside the films range. > In this case the ambient meter gives you no information on the > contrast range. > > So, my recommendation is to use a reflected spot meter which overcomes these > shortcomings. With little practice it is hard to make an error in exposure > provided the meter is linear and is properly calibrated. My favourite > one is the Zone VI modified Pentax digital meter. Very simple, > reliable and accurate. > > Cheers, - Andrew. > > > -Original Message- > From: Steve Desjardins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: March 24, 2003 1:40 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Hand Meters > > > What would folks recommend in a handmeter, spot or ambient? > > > Steven Desjardins > Department of Chemistry > Washington and Lee University > Lexington, VA 24450 > (540) 458-8873 > FAX: (540) 458-8878 > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >
RE: Complaints
I've been staying out of this one for the most part but I must agree with Bruce here. The Date Function, while it may be handy for some, is sort of pointless in my books. The Contax G2 data back gave a lot more information - exposure info for example - that may be more useful and it imprinted it between frames (IIRC). That would be something a lot more useful than knowing the date of the image as far as I'm concerned. I don't ever recall talking to anyone who was purchasing a camera that the date function was going to be a "make or break" item. Cheers, Dave -Original Message- From: Bruce Rubenstein [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2003 11:40 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Complaints In the US, only the 7E model can be had with the date option. It is a virtually worthless option for SLRs. Unless you have some very special need it is only for the P&S crowd. The date function will not sell more *ists vis-a-vis the Elan 7. BR [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >> From: Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:53:53 -0500 >> >> They're only $40 (not the E version) apart here, and the Canon name >> is worth $40 to a lot of people. > > > Do you compare date models? The *ist comes with a data back as > standard, it can't be bought without one. You must compare with date > models from the competition. > > Best wishes, > Roland > > > _ > Hitta rätt på nätet med MSN Sök http://search.msn.se/ >
Re: Complaints
On March 25, 2003 11:05 am, Roland Mabo wrote: > > Do you compare date models? The *ist comes with a data back as standard, it > can't be bought without one. You must compare with date models from the > competition. > How much is the date feature worth to people? If all it does is record the date it's worth nothing to me. If it records things like F stop and shutter speed it's worth something. But am I going to pay extra for it? Not likely. Nick
Re: Complaints
On March 25, 2003 10:59 am, Roland Mabo wrote: > From: Bruce Rubenstein <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2003 10:50:51 -0500 > > > >B&H has the camera listed for $300. That is only $20 less than the ZX-5n > >and twice the price of the ZX-60. It is $60 more than the Canon Ti and $40 > >less than the EOS Elan 7. It's $100 more than the Maxxum 5. > > I don't understand the american pricing, the *ist has an entry level price > tag in Europe. Only 10 UK pounds more than the EOS 300V date (Rebel Ti), > and 180 UK Pounds less than the EOS 30 date (Elan 7). According to > http://www.jessops.com. The B&H current price is quite a bit lower then Jessops in the UK. I say current because until they actually change it from coming soon to selling now anything can change. Nick
