Re: On-line printing services

[Ramesh Kumar]

Yes its Adorama.

I have used Adorama their Matte printing is excellent. Even B&W is good.
Now they have 25% discount on all prints.  I am planning to submit 100s of 
prints this wek..:-)


bye
Ramesh






From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: On-line printing services
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 06:31:52 -0400
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a friend of mine who is in the business says that their best competition, 
the one that beats just about everyone in the business for consistent very 
high quality, is Adorama. i've never used them.


Herb
- Original Message - From: "Bob Shell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2005 3:59 AM
Subject: On-line printing services


The magazine I work for these days, Digital Camera Magazine, wants to do a 
roundup and comparison article on the on-line printing services.  I'm not 
writing it, but I offered to help the writer by getting some opinions.


I'd appreciate feedback from people who have used such services for 
ordinary printing jobs, which I'll define as 4 X 6 up to, say, 8 1/2 X 11 
prints.  I'm primarily interested in print quality, but speed of service 
is also an issue.  Since we're a USA publication, we're interested in 
services in the USA.

Slik Pro 614 CF Carbon Fiber Tripod

[Ramesh Kumar]

I want to buy Slik Pro 614 CF Carbon Fiber Tripod
B&H & Adorama have this on out-of-stock for long time.
Even google search is not yeilding dealers list.

I am looking for a list of online-camera stores to inquire about this 
tripod.

If anybody has online-camera-stores list let me know.

I tried eBay

Thanks
Ramesh

Understanding tripod spec sheet

[Ramesh Kumar]

Tripod specification says "Maximum Height w/o Column Extended 46.1""

Is this the perpedicular height when legs are spread?
If not, when spread, maximum height will be less than 46".1

Pls clarify..




Thanks
Ramesh

Re: Scratches on filters

[Ramesh Kumar]

The soft edged filters are designed for wide angle lenses and the hard 
edged ones for telephoto lenses.

Valuable information.


Thanks
Ramesh


From: Tom Reese <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Ramesh Kumar wrote:

I have few question about Graduated Neutral Density .

I use Cokin's Graduated Neutral Density filter and it gets scratched 
easily.
I heard that Lee's Graduated Neutral Density filters are scratch resistant 
because its made of glass.


Do you use Hard edged or soft edgedGraduated Neutral Density filter?


I use the Tiffen glass ones because they fit the Cokin filter holders. Be 
careful with them though. I tried to use a brand new one with a polarizer 
filter. I thought I had the P holder attached to the polarizing filter but 
when I tried to maneuver the Tiffen, the damned P holder fell off. My brand 
new never used $100+ filter smashed to bits. I was so mad I wanted to jump 
off the damned mountain.


The Cokin ones scratch and they can give you weird colors but they don't 
break.


The soft edged filters are designed for wide angle lenses and the hard 
edged ones for telephoto lenses.


Tom Reese

Scratches on filters

[Ramesh Kumar]

I have few question about Graduated Neutral Density .

I use Cokin's Graduated Neutral Density filter and it gets scratched easily.
I heard that Lee's Graduated Neutral Density filters are scratch resistant 
because its made of glass.


Do you use Hard edged or soft edgedGraduated Neutral Density filter?


Pls let me know your experiences.

Thanks
Ramesh

LCD display as Viewfinder

[Ramesh Kumar]

In *istD, is it possible to use LCD display as viewfinder while composing 
the frame?


Thanks
Ramesh

Re: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long

[Ramesh Kumar]

If needed, I used PS options. But, recently I read the fallowing which 
suggestes RAW upscaling is better.

"For the camera that capture square pixels, there is usually very little 
difference b/w resizing in Camera RAW and upsizing in PS using Bicubic

For cameras that capture non-square pixels, the native size is the one that 
most closely preserves the original pixel count, meaning that one dimention 
is upsampled while the other is downsampled. The next size up preseserves 
the pixel count along the highter resolution dimension, upsampling the lower 
resolution dimension to match and create square pixels in the converted 
image.This size preserves maximum amount of detail for non-square-pixel 
cameras, and it will typically produce better results than converting to the 
smaller size and then upsampling in PS.
"
From "Real World Camera RAW with Adobe Photoshop CS" by Bruce on page number 
34.
bye
Ramesh
From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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- Original Message - From: "Ramesh Kumar"
Subject: Re: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long

I assume you also do resampling..
what method you use for resampling?
In the Photoshop RAW converter, you have the option of upsizing during the 
conversion process.

William Robb

Re: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long

[Ramesh Kumar]

I store/archive RAW and  8bit TIFF files after editting.
bye
Ramesh

From: Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 15:36:13 -0400
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You'll get superior results if you upsize your pic when you convert rather 
than in PhotoShop. I almost always convert my *istD images as 144 megabyte 
16-bit files. That gives me a lot to work with, and they're the perfect 
size for making 360 dpi inkjets on 13" x 19" paper. Of course I change the 
mode to 8-bit before printing.
Paul
On Apr 30, 2005, at 2:14 PM, Ramesh Kumar wrote:

I tried once 20% extrapolation.
good conversion
What you mean by this?
I use ImageSize option in PS without any layers..is that not efficient?
Thanks
Ramesh


From: Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 09:32:08 -0400
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On Apr 29, 2005, at 10:32 PM, Ramesh Kumar wrote:
I used to get 5300x3400 pixels from 35mm scans and never worried about 
printing on 13x19' paper. I do not have that luxury with *istD, and miss 
it.
Shoot RAW with your *istD and convert in PSCS at the highest 
interpolation setting. This will give you a 6144 by 4101 pixel count. If 
you do a good conversion of a good shot, it will print better on 13 x19 
than anything you can get from film. I've done numerous comparisons. I 
know that to be a fact.
Paul

Re: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long

[Ramesh Kumar]

I assume you also do resampling..
what method you use for resampling?
Thanks
Ramesh
From: Godfrey DiGiorgi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
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Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 07:51:19 -0700
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On Apr 29, 2005, at 7:32 PM, Ramesh Kumar wrote:
I used to get 5300x3400 pixels from 35mm scans and never worried about 
printing on 13x19' paper. I do not have that luxury with *istD, and miss 
it.  To reach "35mm pixel freedom..:-)", I may have to do few upgrades.
I find that prints made from digital capture are generally about the same 
quality as 35mm film scans when output at 50-75% the density. 2000x3000 
pixels produces about the same quality 13x19" print as your 5300x3400 scan. 
This is due to the lack of grain, grain aliasing, and other 
emulsion/analog->digital defects induced by the scanning process.

I have many inkjet generated prints made with both capture processes 
hanging side by side, and you simply cannot see a difference.

Godfrey

Re: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long

[Ramesh Kumar]

I tried once 20% extrapolation.
good conversion
What you mean by this?
I use ImageSize option in PS without any layers..is that not efficient?
Thanks
Ramesh


From: Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
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Date: Sat, 30 Apr 2005 09:32:08 -0400
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On Apr 29, 2005, at 10:32 PM, Ramesh Kumar wrote:
I used to get 5300x3400 pixels from 35mm scans and never worried about 
printing on 13x19' paper. I do not have that luxury with *istD, and miss 
it.
Shoot RAW with your *istD and convert in PSCS at the highest interpolation 
setting. This will give you a 6144 by 4101 pixel count. If you do a good 
conversion of a good shot, it will print better on 13 x19 than anything you 
can get from film. I've done numerous comparisons. I know that to be a 
fact.
Paul

Re: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long

[Ramesh Kumar]

I will be changing to Canon once they come with something more than 20D at 
affordable price.

Pixel count.
I used to get 5300x3400 pixels from 35mm scans and never worried about 
printing on 13x19' paper. I do not have that luxury with *istD, and miss it. 
 To reach "35mm pixel freedom..:-)", I may have to do few upgrades. Since 
Canon is slightly cheaper, upgrades are affordale. For an hobbiest like me, 
price is important.

Accessories...
Recently while searching for L-bracket, I found its easier to find an 
accessory for Canon than Pentax.
I agree there will be workarounds for this...

Another reason is Canon's IS lenses.
Thanks
Ramesh

From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long
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this is the most important reason for me. Canon promised that there will be 
three DSLR announcements this year. we have seen one definite, the Rebel 
XT, and one possible, the 20Da, but i discount that one. there is at the 
very least, one more to go. Pentax chose to spend time and money on the 
645D. i think that is going to be about as effective as Leica's development 
of the Digital R back. the medium format market, digital or film, is a 
fringe market compared to the 35mm-type market. i don't think that the 645D 
is going to extend the life of the medium format one iota and it will 
greatly reduce Pentax's chances to stay in the smaller format DSLR market. 
the *istDs will be non-competitive by the end of this year unless they sell 
it for about $600. guess how much money they will make on it then.

Herb...
- Original Message - From: "Christian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2005 11:05 AM
Subject: Why and How I switched to Canon (for those who care) long

Sixth: The "upgrade path."  What is Pentax's future as a k-mount DSLR
manufacturer?  We really don't know, but as stated above, we can be pretty
sure that there will not be a camera with a k-mount and a 24x36mm sensor.
With Canon, the future is pretty clear.  DSLR bodies are being developed
along three major lines: Consumer, Prosumer, and professional with new or
improved bodies coming out at a very agggresive rate.  The upgrade path is
clear and available.  If I choose I can upgrade to a full-frame sensor in
the future.  Pentax was just not offering me enough of a future.

Re: L plate for *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

Today, I got L bracket from Kirkphoto for *istD.
Its 5" x 3.25" is size. It does not look big and does not block any control.
It says "BL-2 SHORT L-Bracket"

Thanks
Ramesh

From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
Date: Sun, 17 Apr 2005 01:28:39 +
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*ist D specific, it was for any camera that had one of their arca swiss
mounting plates.
Even when placing online order for Universal L bracket, we are supposed to 
mention specific camera model. It means they may be having something 
specific to *itsD.

Thanks
Ramesh
From: "Kenneth Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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To: 
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 15:06:22 -0400
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> And there is no reference to *istD compatible L bracket in Kirk site.
Call them and tell them what you have and want. The L bracket I  got was 
not
*ist D specific, it was for any camera that had one of their arca swiss
mounting plates.

Kenneth Waller
- Original Message -
From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 1:44 AM
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
> Herb,
> Thanks for sharing your experience. I have SLIK 700DX 
tripod &
I
> want to make sure RRS & works with my existing ball head.  My QR plate
looks
> like this..
> http://www.thkphoto.com/products/slik/photos-t/SLIK_6125QUICK.jpg
>
> I think I need the fallowing, ls let me know if this is really the 
right
> stuff...
> 1) RRS Pano clamp ( PCL-1 3/8)   & RRS Rails (MPR-CL II )
> 2) Kirk L bracket for *istd
>
> RRS Pano clamp comes in two versions PCL - 1 3/8 and 1/4"-20 version.
> I think I should go for  PCL - 1 3/8.
>
> And there is no reference to *istD compatible L bracket in Kirk site.
>
> Thanks
> Ramesh
>
>
> >From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
> >To: 
> >Subject: Re:  L plate for *istD
> >Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 19:28:56 -0400
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
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Re: L plate for *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

I think my last mail was not clear...but still I got the answer..
Conceptually, I wanted to know, whether rotating QR Platform(as in the case 
of RSS Pano clamp) is same as rotating ballhead system itself(as in the case 
of Acratech Ultima ballhead..).

You answered my question in
"since the rotation mechanism is on the top of the head, it can be 
leveled with the ball head lock and will rotate while maintaining the level. 
the Acratech head allows you to use standard tripod screw thread attachment 
to your camera. the rotating base is at the bottom of the head and will 
rotate about the axis of the tripod mount. in general, this will not be 
level unless you level the entire tripod.."

I understand that I need L bracket, body plate, MPR rail, RSS pano head, 
Arca style QR platform..

Thank you verymuch
Ramesh


they are for different purposes. the RRS clamp replaces the camera 
attachment on your existing ballhead and changes you over to the Arca-Swiss 
style QR system. since the rotation mechanism is on the top of the head, it 
can be leveled with the ball head lock and will rotate while maintaining the 
level. the Acratech head allows you to use standard tripod screw thread 
attachment to your camera. the rotating base is at the bottom of the head 
and will rotate about the axis of the tripod mount. in general, this will 
not be level unless you level the entire tripod. depending on the type of 
tripod you have, this may be easy or hard. 5 or 10 degrees inaccuracy is not 
going to make a difference in a panorama stitching program.. you usually 
need to overlap 30-50% to get good results. if you read further on the RRS 
site on creating panoramas, or on other sites such as Panoramic.net or 
panoguide.com, you will see that you need a ballhead with a rotating base 
and a panoramic rotator in addition. attaching the RRS pano clamp 
permanently to the Acratech head, if that is the one you like, is what will 
work best. you will still need an L-bracket system, and ideally, you will 
want one with fore-aft movement too so that you can set the nodal point, 
which an L-Bracket on a panorama clamp will not let you do.

Herb

From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 21:35:12 -0400
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you would think so but it doesn't. it's how they do market research to see 
if there is enough demand for the lesser volume cameras to justify them 
making a plate. they made one for my Nikon Coolpix 5000, but they are not 
making any for the Coolpix 8400. i have to use a generic plate that is 
bigger than it needs to be by a lot.

Herb
- Original Message - From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD

Even when placing online order for Universal L bracket, we are supposed to 
mention specific camera model. It means they may be having something 
specific to *itsD.

Re: L plate for *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

Acratech Ultimate Ballhead(AUB) has angle marks like RRS Pano clamp(PCL).
Differance is in marking resolution, AUB has 5 degree and PCL has 2.5 degree 
markings.
AUB is ~50$ more than PCL, but its ballhead.

Can AUB do as good a job as PCL?
Any thoughts are helpful.

Thanks
Ramesh


From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 21:35:12 -0400
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you would think so but it doesn't. it's how they do market research to see 
if there is enough demand for the lesser volume cameras to justify them 
making a plate. they made one for my Nikon Coolpix 5000, but they are not 
making any for the Coolpix 8400. i have to use a generic plate that is 
bigger than it needs to be by a lot.

Herb....
- Original Message - From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD

Even when placing online order for Universal L bracket, we are supposed to 
mention specific camera model. It means they may be having something 
specific to *itsD.

Re: L plate for *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

*ist D specific, it was for any camera that had one of their arca swiss
mounting plates.
Even when placing online order for Universal L bracket, we are supposed to 
mention specific camera model. It means they may be having something 
specific to *itsD.

Thanks
Ramesh
From: "Kenneth Waller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 15:06:22 -0400
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> And there is no reference to *istD compatible L bracket in Kirk site.
Call them and tell them what you have and want. The L bracket I  got was 
not
*ist D specific, it was for any camera that had one of their arca swiss
mounting plates.

Kenneth Waller
- Original Message -
From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 1:44 AM
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
> Herb,
> Thanks for sharing your experience. I have SLIK 700DX tripod 
&
I
> want to make sure RRS & works with my existing ball head.  My QR plate
looks
> like this..
> http://www.thkphoto.com/products/slik/photos-t/SLIK_6125QUICK.jpg
>
> I think I need the fallowing, ls let me know if this is really the right
> stuff...
> 1) RRS Pano clamp ( PCL-1 3/8)   & RRS Rails (MPR-CL II )
> 2) Kirk L bracket for *istd
>
> RRS Pano clamp comes in two versions PCL - 1 3/8 and 1/4"-20 version.
> I think I should go for  PCL - 1 3/8.
>
> And there is no reference to *istD compatible L bracket in Kirk site.
>
> Thanks
> Ramesh
>
>
> >From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
> >To: 
> >Subject: Re:  L plate for *istD
> >Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 19:28:56 -0400
> >MIME-Version: 1.0
> >Received: from host24.websitesource.com ([209.239.33.40]) by
> >mc3-f12.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.211); Tue, 12 Apr
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> >16:30:03 -0700
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> >
> >that's not just an L plate. i have the Kirk Photo Big L mentioned
elsewhere
> >and don't use it. it is designed for a much larger camera and sticks 
out
> >way too far to the right when mounted. also, it blocks all of the 
normal
> >access ports needed to change batteries, etc. the Really Right Stuff
image
> >you show requires an Arca Swiss plate mounted on the body. RRS doesn't
make
> >such a plate, but Kirk does for the *istD. i have a pair of the RRS
> >panorama clamps and the RRS B-16 adapter plate to do highly accurate
> >panoramas. the B-16 plate attaches and removes easily with no tools,
while
> >the Kirk Big L plate requires a hex key to install and remove.
> >
> >Herb
> >- Original Message - From: "Ramesh Kumar" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: 
> >Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 10:12 AM
> >Subject: L plate for *istD
> >
> >
> >>How to mount the *istD on tripd in prortarit mode like this?
> >>http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/pano/horiz/horiz_panos_L-plate.jpg
> >>
> >>I thought of using L plate. Pls let me know, if any company makes it.
> >
>
>

Re: L plate for *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

Thanks for making me understand...:-). I ordered for L bracket, body plate.
I found  RRS's ballhead BH-25 very interesting because of its light weight 
and also has Arca swiss QR platform.

My existing slik ballhead weights ~700 gms and can take 3Kgs load.
RRS’s BH-25 weights 186gm and can take 4kgs load. Reduction in weight helps 
when I go for hiking.

Regards,
Ramesh


From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD
Date: Sat, 16 Apr 2005 07:13:26 -0400
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there is no Kirk L bracket for the *istD. you have to get the camera plate 
and then add the generic L bracket. the generic L bracket attaches to the 
camera plate via the tripod socket in the plate, which means it will no 
longer attach to a regular 1/4-20 threaded tripod screw. i assume you are 
going to attach the Pano clamp to your tripod using your existing plate. 
although this will work, you are losing a lot of the benefit of using a QR 
system because the generic L plate only works on an Arca-Swiss clamp. you 
will now have to get one for your head or you will have to remove the L 
plate when using the camera on the tripod without the panoramic equipment. 
almost all of the RRS gear assumes your ball head (they don't recommend pan 
heads) has an Arca-Swiss style clamp on it as your only QR system. if your 
head can't be removed and replaced with another one that has an Arca-Swiss 
clamp on it, it may not be sturdy enough to hold the weight of the camera 
and the panorama attachments.

Herb...
- Original Message - From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 1:44 AM
Subject: Re: L plate for *istD

Herb,
   Thanks for sharing your experience. I have SLIK 700DX tripod & 
I want to make sure RRS & works with my existing ball head.  My QR plate 
looks like this..
http://www.thkphoto.com/products/slik/photos-t/SLIK_6125QUICK.jpg

I think I need the fallowing, ls let me know if this is really the right 
stuff...
1) RRS Pano clamp ( PCL-1 3/8)   & RRS Rails (MPR-CL II )
2) Kirk L bracket for *istd

RRS Pano clamp comes in two versions PCL - 1 3/8 and 1/4"-20 version.
I think I should go for  PCL - 1 3/8.
And there is no reference to *istD compatible L bracket in Kirk site.

Re: L plate for *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

Herb,
   Thanks for sharing your experience. I have SLIK 700DX tripod & I 
want to make sure RRS & works with my existing ball head.  My QR plate looks 
like this..
http://www.thkphoto.com/products/slik/photos-t/SLIK_6125QUICK.jpg

I think I need the fallowing, ls let me know if this is really the right 
stuff...
1) RRS Pano clamp ( PCL-1 3/8)   & RRS Rails (MPR-CL II )
2) Kirk L bracket for *istd

RRS Pano clamp comes in two versions PCL - 1 3/8 and 1/4"-20 version.
I think I should go for  PCL - 1 3/8.
And there is no reference to *istD compatible L bracket in Kirk site.
Thanks
Ramesh

From: "Herb Chong" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re:  L plate for *istD
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2005 19:28:56 -0400
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that's not just an L plate. i have the Kirk Photo Big L mentioned elsewhere 
and don't use it. it is designed for a much larger camera and sticks out 
way too far to the right when mounted. also, it blocks all of the normal 
access ports needed to change batteries, etc. the Really Right Stuff image 
you show requires an Arca Swiss plate mounted on the body. RRS doesn't make 
such a plate, but Kirk does for the *istD. i have a pair of the RRS 
panorama clamps and the RRS B-16 adapter plate to do highly accurate 
panoramas. the B-16 plate attaches and removes easily with no tools, while 
the Kirk Big L plate requires a hex key to install and remove.

Herb
- Original Message - From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2005 10:12 AM
Subject: L plate for *istD

How to mount the *istD on tripd in prortarit mode like this?
http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/pano/horiz/horiz_panos_L-plate.jpg
I thought of using L plate. Pls let me know, if any company makes it.

L plate for *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

How to mount the *istD on tripd in prortarit mode like this?
http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/pano/horiz/horiz_panos_L-plate.jpg
I thought of using L plate. Pls let me know, if any company makes it.

Thanks
Ramesh

Re: Suggestion regarding flash

[Ramesh Kumar]

Thanks for helping to decide. I will go with Metz Mz4i
Regards,
Ramesh
From: Frantisek <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: Ramesh Kumar 
Subject: Re: Suggestion regarding flash
Date: Sat, 9 Apr 2005 02:54:07 +0200
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RK> -should be compatible with my current Pentax system.
RK> -should be compatible with my future  Canon system (say Canon 20D or 
higher)
RK> -I do not understand flash technology well, so I need the one that 
needs few
RK> settings from me.

For serious photography using flash, you need one that has both tilt
and swivel. So you can bounce it off a ceiling or close wall. If it
has only tilt (upwards), you can't bounce it off ceiling in camera's 
portrait
orientation.

If you want to have TTL even in the Canon system (or any other), you
need a Metz flash. The newest Mecablitz 54 MZ-4 is a good bet, as it
has interchangeable modules for TTL with all current DSLRs including
Canon's E-TTL (maybe even e-TTL2) and Nikon's iTTL, and of course
Pentax's P-TTL. Older Metz flashes do not support the E-TTL or iTTL,
but they still work on Pentax's DSLRs in plain TTL (which according to
some doesn't work so well under some circumstances). Adorama lists it
exactly at 350$ :-)
It's Metz's most advanced shoemount flash.
Good light!
   fra

Suggestion regarding flash

[Ramesh Kumar]

Till now I avoided buying a flash. Now, I need to take pictures in my 
friend's family event.
Its a small event where DSLR is fine. I will be shooting within 10-15feet. 
So I need a flash. And I would like buy a good once for all, can sepnd till 
350usd.

Pls suggest me a flash keeping in mind.
-should be compatible with my current Pentax system.
-should be compatible with my future  Canon system (say Canon 20D or higher)
-I do not understand flash technology well, so I need the one that needs few 
settings from me.

I have some general question too...
What I loose by using non-dedicated flash?
Can dedicated flash work in non-dedicated mode? If yes, can I buy dedicated 
Canon flash and use with *istD?

Thanks in advance
Ramesh

Re: what's your favorite Pentax macro?

[Ramesh Kumar]

I have FA50mm & FA100mm macro. I favour the latter
becuase its longer focal length helps in macro work.

Ramesh


--- Amita Guha <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Pentax glass experts,
> 
> It looks like I might finally be able to buy a macro
> lens soon. I was
> wondering, what's your favorite Pentax (or other)
> macro lens and why? It
> could be AF or MF. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Amita
> 





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Re: Bit selection for Pentax RAW file?

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- Joseph Tainter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> What are you ultimately going to do with the images?
> If you will print 
> them, or have them printed, the output device will
> print them at 8 bits.

I will archive PEF file. I will import temporarily
when its needed.
 
Some numbers for a sample image
PEF-> 13MB
Imported 8bit TIFF 7MB
Imported 16bit TIFF 37MB

I was using Nikon LS-4000; compared to its file sizes,
 DSLR's 13MB is very much managable!!!

Thanks
Ramesh






> 
> I use 16 bits only for the most important images.
> Even still, onscreen, 
> I can see very little difference between 8 and 16
> bits. So I rarely use 
> 16 bits.
> 
> The PEF importer will import images at 16 bits. If
> you want them to be 8 
> bits, you must convert them. This takes just 3
> clicks.
> 
> Joe
> 





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Re: Bit selection for Pentax RAW file?

[Ramesh Kumar]

Sorry my initial mail said PS7 that is wrong, I use PS
CS.

Ramesh

--- Rob Studdert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 16 Apr 2004 at 22:30, Juey Chong Ong wrote:
> 
> > btw, what do you use to convert PEF to TIFF in
> Photoshop 7? I had to 
> > upgrade to Photoshop 8 to get the Adobe RAW
> Plug-in to recognize PEF.
> 
> AFAIK the only PEF import filter that will work in
> PS7 is Pentax's own "PENTAX 
> RAW FILE Plugin Version 1.0.0.0" C2003
> 
> 
> Rob Studdert
> HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
> Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
> 





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Re: Bit selection for Pentax RAW file?

[Ramesh Kumar]

I use PS CS.
I had old version of plugin, I used to operate it
using File/Import-Export/Raw plugin. This does not
have BIT selection capablity. In this one, I had
created action using File/Import-Export/Raw plugin

In newversion of plugin, I can use File->Open to open
a PEF file, a conversion dlg pops up with options to
select bit setting, color space, DPI. In this case, I
created action using File/Open.

May be this PS CS thing.

Thanks
Ramesh

--- Rob Studdert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 16 Apr 2004 at 18:13, Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> 
> > Hi,
> >   I am using Adobe7 to convert PEF files into
> > TIFF.
> > During this conversion, I think, I should select
> > 16bit.
> > Am I right?
> 
> If you are using the Pentax RAW Plugin as an import
> filter for PS7 then the 
> files will be imported as 16 bits per colour
> channel. There is no option to 
> choose 8 bits per colour pixel for import in my
> version, what import filter are 
> you using?
> 
> 
> Rob Studdert
> HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
> Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
> 





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good site

[Ramesh Kumar]

A good site and photos are taken using Pentax gear.
http://www.blevinsphoto.com/equipment.htm

Do not whether he is list member

Thanks
Ramesh

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Re: Have I got really bad piece()?

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> And most importantly, have you taken one of these
> files and put it
> onto your computer screen to see if you can even see
> the problem?
> 
> William Robb
> 
Good question, I had not observed the photos closely,
just went with the conclusion of s/w. 

I just looked at the photos. None of the photos have
any red pixels. But once the bad pixel count(according
to s/w) increases, image color changes. All photo's
with zero pixel count(according to s/w) look
apparently black except the last one .

Ex:
According to s/w, photo taken at 1/2sec has 0 bad
pixels, but apparantly brown in color with R-G-B ~
63-30-4. After 1/2 sec i,e 1sec photos are marked to
have 100 bad pixels.

Its time to sleep:-)

Thanks
Ramesh




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Re: Have I got really bad piece()?

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Ramesh Kumar" 
> Subject: Re: H
> Define "bad" (hot, dead, or a combination).
> At what speeds are you testing?
> Have you also tested at higher speeds, less than1/15
> second?
no i have not tested 1/30

Ramesh 




 

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Re: Have I got really bad piece()?

[Ramesh Kumar]

As suggested by Rob, I did setting and ran my tests
again for different exposure exposures. 

All these values are taken from FILE created by the
"DeadPixel tool" instead of values shown against
"Result" in dialog box.

Settings are WB is sunlight, Saturation middle,
Sharpen is 0, Contrast 0, sRGB, iso 200asa 

T  I  F F  R  A  W
--- 
Exp TimeNRoff   NROnNRoff   NROn
1/100   0   0   0
1/8 0   0   0   0
1/6 0   0   0   0
1/4 2   0   0   0
1/2 18  0   100 0
1   100 100 100 100
2s  100 100 100 100

After 1s, BadPixels remains 100.
My question is 100 bad pixel a bad count?
Should I think of exchanging for another one?

Thanks
Ramesh 



--- Ramesh Kumar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> File created by the tool says BadPixels are 100. 
> I kept camera in manual mode and changed the shutter
> speed.
> 
> Thanks
> Ramesh  
> 
> 
> --- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > You haven't really indicated how many hot or dead
> > pixels you have,
> > and at what shutter speeds.
> > Dead or hot pixels are an unfortunate fact of life
> > with digital
> > cameras.
> > 
> > On my own camera, I didn't record any dead pixels
> at
> > any shutter
> > speed, and I am not getting any hot pixels until
> > over 1/2 second, at
> > which time they seem to jump exponentially in
> number
> > as the exposure
> > time increases.
> > 
> > William Robb
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Ramesh Kumar"
> > Subject: Have I got really bad piece()?
> > 
> > 
> > > I ran
> > http://www.starzen.com/imaging/deadpixeltest.htm
> > > on my *istD and following are the results( shown
> > > against "Results" in the dialogbox).
> > >
> > > I am running 1.11 firmware and shot with lens
> cap
> > on.
> > > Test1 uses TIFF & Test2 is RAW.
> > >
> > > I have doubts
> > > 1) Why am I getting so many dead pixels?
> > > 2) Why are H/D pixles jump to Megs?
> > > 3) Have I got really bad piece?
> > > 4) Is this because of bad firmware?
> > >
> > > Test1
> > > ---
> > >   Hot/Dead pixels
> > > TIFF(200asa),   NR-off NR-On
> > > 1/8 0/6M 0/13
> > > 1/6 0/6M 0/6M
> > > 1/4 0/6M 0/6M
> > > 1/2 0/6M 0/6M
> > > 1 5M/6M 0/6M
> > > 2 6M/6M 6M/6M
> > >
> > > Test2
> > > --
> > > RAW(200asa),   NR-off NR-On
> > > 1/8 0/6M 0/6M
> > > 1/6 6M/6M 0/6M
> > > 1/4 6M/6M 0/6M
> > > 1/2 6M/6M 6M/6M
> > > 1 6M/6M 6M/6M
> > > 2 6M/6M 6M/6M
> > >
> > > Any suggestions are welcome.
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > > Ramesh
> > >
> > > __
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
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> > >
> > >
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
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Re: Have I got really bad piece()?

[Ramesh Kumar]

File created by the tool says BadPixels are 100. 
I kept camera in manual mode and changed the shutter
speed.

Thanks
Ramesh  


--- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> You haven't really indicated how many hot or dead
> pixels you have,
> and at what shutter speeds.
> Dead or hot pixels are an unfortunate fact of life
> with digital
> cameras.
> 
> On my own camera, I didn't record any dead pixels at
> any shutter
> speed, and I am not getting any hot pixels until
> over 1/2 second, at
> which time they seem to jump exponentially in number
> as the exposure
> time increases.
> 
> William Robb
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Ramesh Kumar"
> Subject: Have I got really bad piece()?
> 
> 
> > I ran
> http://www.starzen.com/imaging/deadpixeltest.htm
> > on my *istD and following are the results( shown
> > against "Results" in the dialogbox).
> >
> > I am running 1.11 firmware and shot with lens cap
> on.
> > Test1 uses TIFF & Test2 is RAW.
> >
> > I have doubts
> > 1) Why am I getting so many dead pixels?
> > 2) Why are H/D pixles jump to Megs?
> > 3) Have I got really bad piece?
> > 4) Is this because of bad firmware?
> >
> > Test1
> > ---
> >   Hot/Dead pixels
> > TIFF(200asa),   NR-off NR-On
> > 1/8 0/6M 0/13
> > 1/6 0/6M 0/6M
> > 1/4 0/6M 0/6M
> > 1/2 0/6M 0/6M
> > 1 5M/6M 0/6M
> > 2 6M/6M 6M/6M
> >
> > Test2
> > --
> > RAW(200asa),   NR-off NR-On
> > 1/8 0/6M 0/6M
> > 1/6 6M/6M 0/6M
> > 1/4 6M/6M 0/6M
> > 1/2 6M/6M 6M/6M
> > 1 6M/6M 6M/6M
> > 2 6M/6M 6M/6M
> >
> > Any suggestions are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Ramesh
> >
> > __
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> >
> >
> 
> 


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Re: Have I got really bad piece()?

[Ramesh Kumar]

Here are the results.
Last set of results were taken with AWB, keeping
camera facing light source, normal sharpen, normal
contrast.

As Rob suggested, I changed to WB,sharpness,contrast,
time is 10sec, M mode.
I took two sets of reading one camera facing light
source and other in a dark corner. (Note: In all cases
mount cap was present)

Camera facing light source(mount cap on)

[DeadPixelText]
Version=1.0
Description=
FileType=TIFF
NumBadPixels=100
0=Dead,0,0,255
1=Dead,1,0,255
2=Dead,2,0,255
3=Dead,3,0,255
4=Dead,4,0,255
5=Dead,5,0,255
6=Dead,6,0,255
7=Dead,7,0,255
8=Dead,8,0,255
9=Dead,9,0,255

Result: 6MB/6MB

Camera facing dark corner(mount cap on)

[DeadPixelText]
Version=1.0
Description=
FileType=TIFF
NumBadPixels=100
0=Hot,0,0,208
1=Hot,1,0,206
2=Hot,2,0,206
3=Hot,3,0,206
4=Hot,4,0,207
5=Hot,5,0,207
6=Hot,6,0,207
7=Hot,7,0,207
8=Hot,8,0,207
9=Hot,9,0,208
10=Hot,10,0,207

Result: 0/6MB

I have sent the files to Rob.

Thanks
Ramesh

   


--- Rob Studdert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 4 Apr 2004 at 17:37, Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> 
> > I ran
> http://www.starzen.com/imaging/deadpixeltest.htm
> > on my *istD and following are the results( shown
> > against "Results" in the dialogbox). 
> > 
> > I am running 1.11 firmware and shot with lens cap
> on.
> > Test1 uses TIFF & Test2 is RAW.
> > 
> > I have doubts
> > 1) Why am I getting so many dead pixels?
> > 2) Why are H/D pixles jump to Megs?
> > 3) Have I got really bad piece?
> > 4) Is this because of bad firmware?
> 
> No idea, can you send me the test results as a text
> file given the following 
> test parameters?
> 
> 10 seconds manual exposure (lens capped)
> 200ISO
> Daylight WB
> NR off
> Saturation setting (middle)
> Sharpness setting (left most)
> Contrast setting (left most)
> sRGB CS
> TIFF L file
> 
> The tiff file can then be opened and tested under
> the default settings of the
> DeadPixelTest application and the information file
> saved.
> 
> Using the above method my results were as follows:
> 
> [DeadPixelText]
> Version=1.0
> Description=
> FileType=TIFF
> NumBadPixels=15
> 0=Hot,2798,135,69
> 1=Hot,1954,339,113
> 2=Hot,1809,585,64
> 3=Hot,726,610,112
> 4=Hot,726,611,192
> 5=Hot,726,612,112
> 6=Hot,2312,753,121
> 7=Hot,323,766,94
> 8=Hot,572,1365,116
> 9=Hot,1627,1400,64
> 10=Hot,2163,1958,96
> 11=Hot,2162,1959,113
> 12=Hot,2163,1959,145
> 13=Hot,2164,1959,112
> 14=Hot,2163,1960,98
> 
> From what I have seen of other results this is
> pretty average.
> 
> I will make an effort to tabulate all the results
> that I have received to date 
> and I will put up a page in the next day or two.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Rob Studdert
> HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
> Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
> 


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Have I got really bad piece()?

[Ramesh Kumar]

I ran http://www.starzen.com/imaging/deadpixeltest.htm
on my *istD and following are the results( shown
against "Results" in the dialogbox). 

I am running 1.11 firmware and shot with lens cap on.
Test1 uses TIFF & Test2 is RAW.

I have doubts
1) Why am I getting so many dead pixels?
2) Why are H/D pixles jump to Megs?
3) Have I got really bad piece?
4) Is this because of bad firmware?

Test1
---
Hot/Dead pixels
TIFF(200asa),   NR-off  NR-On
1/8 0/6M0/13
1/6 0/6M0/6M
1/4 0/6M0/6M
1/2 0/6M0/6M
1   5M/6M   0/6M
2   6M/6M   6M/6M

Test2
--
RAW(200asa),   NR-off   NR-On
1/8 0/6M0/6M
1/6 6M/6M   0/6M
1/4 6M/6M   0/6M
1/2 6M/6M   6M/6M
1   6M/6M   6M/6M
2   6M/6M   6M/6M

Any suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
Ramesh

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Re: I got my *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- Christian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> So what are you doing sending e-mails?  Go out and
> have fun ;-)
> 
I am still at work to make some money so that I can
buy lens:-)

Ramesh 


> 
> - Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, April 02, 2004 2:05 PM
> Subject: I got my *istD
> 
> 
> > Today I got my *istD from KEH and need to try.
> > 
> > Ramesh
> > 
> > 
> > __
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway 
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> > 
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I got my *istD

[Ramesh Kumar]

Today I got my *istD from KEH and need to try.

Ramesh


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Re: Wideangle lens choice

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Yes, as you suggested, I am leaning towards 17mm third
party pre-owned MF lens.

> making excellent lenses. I have an older Tokina
> 17mm, not an
> excellent lens, but certainly passable. A friend has
> an older Tamron
> 17 that is very good indeed.

Are you reffering to Tamron SP adaptall 17mm f3.5?

Regards,
Ramesh


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RE: Wideangle lens choice

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- Alan Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The Pentax 15mm is not a particular sharp lens which
> is crucial for DSLR.
> 
Thank you, Pentax 15mm goes off my list and reduces
confusion.  


Regards,
Ramesh


> Regards,
> Alan Chan
> http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
> 
> >I am planning to buy *istD and so looking at the
> wide
> >angle lens to replace my 24mm.
> >I find replacements are too expensive and have some
> >doubts.
> >
> >I was looking at 15mm lenses. Most of these wide
> angle
> >lenses have bulby front element.
> >How this design affects flare?
> >How to fit the filters in the front? I usually use
> >nuetral graduated filter.
> >
> >Pentax 16-45mm does not seem to have bulby front
> >element and seems more filter friendly. Am I
> correct?
> >
> >I have to pick one among  Pentax 16-45mm, Sigma
> >12-24mm and Pentax A 15mm.
> >Pentax 16-45mm looks value for money, I heard it
> has
> >abberations at 16mm.  Is it a good idea to use the
> >zoom lens at its extreams ends?
> >
> >Can somebody pls compare Pentax 16-45mm with Pentax
> A
> >15mm?
> >
> >Any comparison b/w Pentax 16-45mm, Sigma 12-24mm is
> >also welcome.
> >
> >
> >Thanks
> >Ramesh
> 
>
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Re: Tamron SP AF28-75mm F/2.8

[Ramesh Kumar]

Yes it's 1.5 not 2.0. It made mistake.

--- Steve Jolly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The *istD's focal-length multiplier isn't 2 is it? 
> I thought it was 
> more like 1.5...
> 
> S
> 
> Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> 
> > As usual good response.
> > 
> > 
> >>noticeably better flare control than the Tokina.
> >>Light-fall-off control is 
> >>better as well.
> > 
> > 
> > This really puts me in dilemma:-). I was leaning
> > towards Tokina because its optically good and
> 28-80mm.
> > When using with my yet to own!! *istD it goes up
> to
> > 160mm which is a major advantage. 
> > 
> > Tamron is cheap, light, according to some of you,
> > optically good (better?) than Tokina but goes up
> to
> > only 150mm, which is 10mm less than Tokinas.
> > 
> > Thanks for putting me in dilemma:-)
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Ramesh
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > --- Alan Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> >>A Japanese magazine tested it against the Tokina
> and
> >>Nikkor. It has 
> >>noticeably better flare control than the Tokina.
> >>Light-fall-off control is 
> >>better as well. User reported the Tamron was a
> >>little soft wide open but ok 
> >>at f4. The first batch was Made in Japan, but now
> >>Assembled in China.
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>Alan Chan
> >>http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
> >>
> >>
> >>>I am also looking for zoom in 28-70+ f2.8 range.
> >>>I was concentrating on Tokina 28-80 (499usd).
> >>>This Tamrom lens seems to be new model and its
> lot
> >>>cheaper(319usd)
> >>>
> >>>Do you know how does Tamron compare with the
> Tokina
> >>
> >>in
> >>
> >>>optical performance?
> >>>I am not very much worried about build quality.
> >>
> >>
> >
>
_
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> > 
> > 
> > __
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Re: Tamron SP AF28-75mm F/2.8

[Ramesh Kumar]

As usual good response.

> noticeably better flare control than the Tokina.
> Light-fall-off control is 
> better as well.

This really puts me in dilemma:-). I was leaning
towards Tokina because its optically good and 28-80mm.
When using with my yet to own!! *istD it goes up to
160mm which is a major advantage. 

Tamron is cheap, light, according to some of you,
optically good (better?) than Tokina but goes up to
only 150mm, which is 10mm less than Tokinas.

Thanks for putting me in dilemma:-)

Regards,
Ramesh



 
--- Alan Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A Japanese magazine tested it against the Tokina and
> Nikkor. It has 
> noticeably better flare control than the Tokina.
> Light-fall-off control is 
> better as well. User reported the Tamron was a
> little soft wide open but ok 
> at f4. The first batch was Made in Japan, but now
> Assembled in China.
> 
> Regards,
> Alan Chan
> http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
> 
> >I am also looking for zoom in 28-70+ f2.8 range.
> >I was concentrating on Tokina 28-80 (499usd).
> >This Tamrom lens seems to be new model and its lot
> >cheaper(319usd)
> >
> >Do you know how does Tamron compare with the Tokina
> in
> >optical performance?
> >I am not very much worried about build quality.
> 
>
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There is some pentax news in http://www.dpreview.com/

[Ramesh Kumar]

As expected there is some pentax news at 
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0401/04010901pentaxistdfw11.asp




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Re: My first *ist D gallery

[Ramesh Kumar]

Nice images and colors look natural. Did you do any
tonal correction, color correction, sharpening?

Thanks
Ramesh
--- Rob Studdert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Team,
> 
> I finally managed to get out in the bush for a few
> hours yesterday to test 
> shoot with my new *ist D and I've just finished
> assembling a small gallery of 
> the results. Be warned the gallery contains images
> of flowers but since they 
> are all local indigenous varieties in their natural
> habitat it could be 
> considered as a botanical study :-)
> 
> I decided to keep the afternoon casual by just
> venturing out with the camera 
> and a single fixed lens. The only other items that I
> took were a spare set of 
> freshly charged batteries that I didn't have to use
> in any case (battery life 
> seems pretty good from my limited experience to
> date).
> 
> My trusty old SMCP A50/2.8 Macro was the lens of
> choice for the day. It was 
> pretty windy so a tripod was of little use and since
> I had no intention of 
> stuffing around with flash or reflectors I figured
> that it would give me the 
> best compromise for DOF vs shutter speed at the
> cameras lowest EI of 200.
> 
> So all the shots in this gallery are hand held and
> most are shot with the wind 
> tossing the subjects about, nearly all are of
> acceptable sharpness but many 
> could have benefited from deeper DOF. The A50/2.8
> macro has sufficient 
> sharpness that only from f11 to f22 is some
> softening visible when shooting in 
> conjunction with the *ist D and at all aperture it
> shows very little chromatic 
> aberration at the edges of the frame.
> 
> Most shots were made at macro ranges and one was
> shot 1:1, all images were shot 
> at EI200 and at the Daylight WB setting in order to
> preserve colour accuracy. I 
> had full sun all afternoon so the shots were either
> made in full sun or in the 
> shadows of the surrounding foliage. The colour or
> contrast of the gallery 
> images hasn't been modified. The EXIF exposure data
> has been retained in the 
> resized images for anyone who would like to view
> shutter/aperture details.
> 
> Since I don't yet have my portable mass media
> storage solutions in place as yet 
> I was forced to save the images in camera as minimum
> compression jpg files. 
> Upon reviewing my images on my work-station I now
> appreciate the need to shoot 
> in RAW mode when using the *ist D. The image
> highlights appear to saturate far 
> earlier than I was used to when I shot with my old
> Oly E-10, I guess the *ist D 
> must have a harder curve in its transform
> algorithms.
> 
> Overall I'm fairly satisfied with the camera from an
> image capture stand-point 
> although I know now that I'll definitely end up
> shooting RAW most of the time 
> and I do miss using the lens aperture ring. Also
> regardless of the finder mag I 
> did find it somewhat less friendly to focus than my
> LX or MZ-S bodies. The FL 
> mag has me now wishing for a nice new wide AL macro
> lens too :-)
> 
> Comments and unbridled criticism welcome.
> 
> http://www.home.aone.net.au/audiobias/wildflowers/
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> 
> Rob Studdert
> HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
> Tel +61-2-9554-4110
> UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
> Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998
> 


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Re: Photographic New Years Resolutions?

[Ramesh Kumar]

I have few...

Buy *istD, *istFilm or its next generation, Sigma
70-200 f2.8, Tokina 28-80 f2.8.

At present, I spend too much editing the film scans.
With the help of *istD I should be saving some time. 

I need to start selling photos online.

Ramesh


--- frank theriault <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I normally don't make New Years resolutions.  I did
> this year, though.
> 
> Anyone make one this year that relates to
> photography?  If so, would you 
> care to share it with us?
> 
> I've resolved to make more money this year from
> photography than I did last 
> year (which actually won't be too hard ).
> 
> I don't even remember when I last made a resolution,
> but I do remember that 
> I kept it.  Hopefully, I will this year as well.
> 
> cheers,
> frank
> 
> "The optimist thinks this is the best of all
> possible worlds.  The pessimist 
> fears it is true."  -J. Robert Oppenheimer
> 
>
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Re: OT: Problem installing Ink tanks for Canon S9000 printer

[Ramesh Kumar]

Cotty,
   Thanks for description. I was able to do it.

Thanks
Ramesh

--- Cotty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 25/12/03, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> disgorged:
> 
> >I bought Canon S9000 and it came with canon ink
> tanks.
> >Ink tanks have orange color handle at the bottom.
> >Thickness of these orange handles are sligtly
> bigger
> >than Ink tank.
> > 
> >My problem is following.
> >I when I place the ink tanks on Printer HEAD, two
> >adjacent ink tanks can not sit properly because
> orange
> >color handle at the bottom of the Ink tanks.
> 
> Hi Ramesh,
> 
> The 'orange handles' are in fact a simple snap-off
> covering for the part
> of the tank that allows the ink to exit onto the
> printer head when it is
> in place. You must break off this orange part by
> twisting it, and
> rotating it *hard*. It takes a hefty twist - don't
> be afraid - use plenty
> of force! You will find that your thumb fits neatly
> in the curve on one
> side of the orange handle - push as appropriate.
> 
> Once it is twisted, and snaps off (bit like me
> really when asked to come
> shopping) then it can be thrown away, or maybe
> recycled as...?
> 
> The tank should not be forced into the printer head
> with the orange
> handles on - it will not work that way anyway.
> 
> Good luck, and an excellent choice in printer if I
> may say so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>   Cotty
> 
> 
> ___/\__
> ||   (O)   |  People, Places, Pastiche
> ||=|  www.macads.co.uk/snaps
> _
> Free UK Mac Ads www.macads.co.uk
> 


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OT: Problem installing Ink tanks for Canon S9000 printer

[Ramesh Kumar]

Its a very basic question, this is my printer.

I bought Canon S9000 and it came with canon ink tanks.
Ink tanks have orange color handle at the bottom.
Thickness of these orange handles are sligtly bigger
than Ink tank.
 
My problem is following.
I when I place the ink tanks on Printer HEAD, two
adjacent ink tanks can not sit properly because orange
color handle at the bottom of the Ink tanks. 

Ink tanks came with the printer and I did not buy them
and they are original ones.

Pls help in fixing this.


Thanks
Ramesh

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Re: Tokina 28-80 F2.8 ATX PRO

[Ramesh Kumar]

Thanks for detailed mail
Ramesh 
--- Joseph Tainter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> "Hey Joe,
> 
> "How can you tell if you got one from a bad batch?
> It doesn't sharpens up when you use smaller
> apertures
> at some focal lengths or what?"
> 
> I noticed on some shots I had taken in Paris that
> there was pronounced 
> lateral softness. It was only a few images out of a
> couple of hundred, 
> and I was not sure of the focal length or f-stop on
> those shots. So I 
> tested it systematically, 28, 35, 50, and 80 mm.,
> all f stops to 16. It 
> turns out that the weakness was at 50 mm. f5.6, and
> a bit at f8.0. When 
> I got the replacement I also tested it
> systematically and found it was 
> superb.
> 
> The test was on a tripod, using Provia 100F. I then
> scanned the images 
> on a Nikon LS 2000 and looked at them at 200% to
> 300% magnification in 
> Photoshop, no sharpening.
> 
> Then, of all things, the Tokina techs said nothing
> about it being soft, 
> but said that it had low contrast. I had not
> complained about that. A 
> batch went out with a bad rear element, or so I am
> told. Tokina tried 
> first to replace the rear element group, then gave
> that up and sent me a 
> replacement.
> 
> So if you buy a used one, test it systematically.
> 
> Joe
> 


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Re: Sigma Zoom Telephoto 70-200mm f/2.8 EX APO IF

[Ramesh Kumar]

I forgot to say HSM.

Did you use HSM version or non-HSM version?

I read reviews at photo.net. Few people said that HSM
facility will be used incase of Minolta body. 

Is HSM going to work on MZ-5n & *istD(for future)?

Thanks for detailed review.
Ramesh


 
--- Cotty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On 17/12/03, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> disgorged:
> 
> >I am thinking of buying Sigma Zoom Telephoto
> 70-200mm
> >f/2.8 EX APO IF.
> >
> >I have read this lens is better than Tokina &
> Tamron.
> >I would like to hear from the users of this lens.
> >
> >
> >Buying Pentax is ruled out because of the hefty
> price.
> 
> I used to have this lens in PKAF and now in EOS. I
> find it a fairly well-
> built lens with a very useful max aperture of f/2.8.
> The size and weight
> are not objectionable (at this focal range and
> aperture, these lenses are
> not flyweights!) and hand-holding is comfortable.
> 
> The tripod collar is completely removable, but I
> find it better to keep
> it on, even when hand-holding. A tightening nut on
> the collar allows lens
> rotation while on a tripod.
> 
> Optically it is not bad, read the tests for the lens
> elsewhere online. I
> have found it a good performer even wide open. Let's
> face it - why buy a
> fast zoom if you're never going to use it wide open?
> It's a good sport
> lens in low light. Stops down to f/32. Front element
> does not rotate, and
> lens stays the same shape and length at any
> focus/focal length.
> 
> The zoom ring grip is okay. Personally I prefer the
> PK or Canon or Tokina
> rubber grips, but it's fine on the Sigma. Nice wide
> area to turn, even
> with gloves on. The focus ring is even bigger and
> the manual focus
> overrides the AF, so it's easy to let AF get you in
> the ballpark, then
> tweak in manual if desired. Very good system for
> this.
> 
> The hood is a so-called 'perfect hood', shaped like
> a petal, is a bayonet
> fit and you'll look a real pro with that lot
> drooping off the end of your
> MZ-50 ;-) The hood is reversible so you can carry it
> on the lens the
> wrong way around if you like.
> 
> Comes with a nice quality fabric lens case.
> 
> All in all, for the money it's a good piece of glass
> and used with the
> matched 1.4X and 2X converters gives much
> flexibility with telephoto
> coverage in your kit.
> 
> On a less-than-full-frame DSLR, gives a very useful
> 'effective' 300mm
> plus at f/2.8 and that's a real bonus.
> 
> On a 35mm film camera, is a good lens to have for
> anything from
> portraiture to landscape to wildlife and beyond.
> 
> Of course I would rather have a 70-200 2.8 USM IS,
> or the Pentax if I
> still used Pentax, but until I devote more than a
> grand to that cause,
> the Sigma is a pretty good buy.
> 
> Best,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>   Cotty
> 
> 
> ___/\__
> ||   (O)   |  People, Places, Pastiche
> ||=|  www.macads.co.uk/snaps
> _
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> 


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Re: Konica Minolta?

[Ramesh Kumar]

Konica bought Minolta
--- Bill Owens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I saw an ad on TV last night for a camera and the
> logo on the ad was the
> usual Minolta globe, but the name was Konica
> Minolta.  Who bought who?
> 
> Bill
> 
> 


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Sigma Zoom Telephoto 70-200mm f/2.8 EX APO IF

[Ramesh Kumar]

I am thinking of buying Sigma Zoom Telephoto 70-200mm
f/2.8 EX APO IF.

I have read this lens is better than Tokina & Tamron.
I would like to hear from the users of this lens.


Buying Pentax is ruled out because of the hefty price.

Thanks
Ramesh




 

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RE: Looking for Tokina ATX AF 28-80 f2.8

[Ramesh Kumar]

KEH has 28-70 f2.8; this is old version. 28-80 f2.8 is
latest version.

Thanks
Ramesh

--- Paul Ewins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I had a look at KEH today and they have four in
> stock, although they
> appear to be two different models.
> 
> Paul Ewins
> Melbourne, Australia
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Ramesh Kumar [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> Sent: Monday, December 15, 2003 6:36 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Looking for Tokina ATX AF 28-80 f2.8
> 
> Pls let me know if anybody wants to sell this lens.
> 
> Thanks
> Ramesh
> 
> __
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> 
> 
> 


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Looking for Tokina ATX AF 28-80 f2.8

[Ramesh Kumar]

Pls let me know if anybody wants to sell this lens.

Thanks
Ramesh

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Re: Business with Vintage Visuals in CA

[Ramesh Kumar]

two years back i purchased pentax a24mm f2.8 lens from
them. deal went smoothly.

ramesh

--- jmb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello,
> 
> Has anyone done business with Vintage Visuals?
>
http://www.vintagevisuals.com/pentax.htm?cfA3F3228E=YTMyNzk5ODpnb29keWVhcmludGVybmV0OqJKiZ/98ZXDhMY9w68UcM=
> 
> John
> 


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Re: OptioS brightness issues

[Ramesh Kumar]

While using Photocol I adjusted for 90.
I use Photoshop 6

Ramesh
--- Juey Chong Ong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> On Tuesday, Nov 11, 2003, at 14:55 America/New_York,
> Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> 
> > Even my OptioS behaves same way. My monitor is
> > calibarted using ColorVision SPY and I do follow
> CMM.
> > I think OptioS screen is brighter so even dull
> images
> > looks bright on OptioS screen.
> 
> It's possible that the backlighting of the Optio S
> display is brighter 
> than your monitor. When I use the Spyder to profile
> my display, 
> PhotoCal tells me to keep the brightness of the CRT
> between 85-95 
> cd/m2, which means I have to turn down the
> "brightness" of the CRT 
> considerably. The result is that the LCD monitor
> backlighting on the 
> digital camera is brighter than the profiled
> monitor.
> 
> You also didn't mention the viewing software you use
> on your computer. 
> Depending on how your software deals with ICC
> profiles, it may or may 
> not be correctly transforming the capture color
> space to the display 
> color space.
> 
> --jc
> 


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RE: OptioS brightness issues

[Ramesh Kumar]

I do not know whether can I change the brightness of
the screen. I do agree angle of view matters a lot.
Thanks
Ramesh

--- Frits_Wuthrich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Can you adjust the screen of the Optio? It is an
> option with my Olympus,
> though I don't trust it to judge the picture from
> the LCD, as the brightness
> varies considerable depending on the angle at which
> I look at the LCD.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Ramesh Kumar [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: dinsdag 11 november 2003 20:55
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: OptioS brightness issues
> 
> 
> Even my OptioS behaves same way. My monitor is
> calibarted using ColorVision SPY and I do follow
> CMM.
> I think OptioS screen is brighter so even dull
> images
> looks bright on OptioS screen.
> 
> 
> Ramesh
> --- Herb Chong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > two things interacting: your monitor isn't color
> > calibrated and you probably
> > aren't using display software that understands
> color
> > calibration. read up on
> > color management on the web.
> >
> > Herb
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "Anurag Sharma" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 8:28 PM
> > Subject: OptioS brightness issues
> >
> >
> > > Hi All,
> > >
> > > I just bought a pentax optioS (3.2MP) camera.
> When
> > I see the pictures on
> > > the LCD they seem great, however once I download
> > them to the pc, they
> > > appear very dark! Happens for the mjpeg movies
> > too.
> >
> >
> 
> 
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RE: PUG "November" is open

[Ramesh Kumar]

Hope I had the samething when I am behind the
camera

Thanks
Ramesh
--- David Madsen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ramesh, you have very good taste.
> 
> David Madsen
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> http://www.davidmadsen.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Ramesh Kumar [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, October 31, 2003 2:16 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: PUG "November" is open
> 
> 
> My favourites are
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/dreamypug.html
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/kikipug.html
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/d4.html
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/bug_600.html
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/nupsstad.html
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/stairpug.html
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/e0002pug.html
> http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/father.html
> 
> 
> 


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Re: PUG "November" is open

[Ramesh Kumar]

My favourites are
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/dreamypug.html
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/kikipug.html
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/d4.html
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/bug_600.html
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/nupsstad.html
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/stairpug.html
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/e0002pug.html
http://pug.komkon.org/03nov/father.html


Thanks
Ramesh
--- mike wilson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> And absolutely spiffing it is, too.  Thanks,
> Adelheid.
> 
> m
> 
> "Adelheid v. K." wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hi *,
> > 
> > the November PUG is ready to go.
> > 
> > A huge PUG this month.
> > 
> > Cheers
> > Adelheid
> > 
> > URL:
> > http://pug.komkon.org/
> > 
> > --
> > About resizing your pics:
> > 
> > To make the procedure easier I am going to resize
> them without further
> > notice - but if somebody is unhappy with the
> result, please send me one you
> > like better in the proper size and I'll swap it on
> the server. I hope this
> > is a fair deal.
> 


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Re: PhotoShop - memory requirements

[Ramesh Kumar]

Let me tell my experience with PS.
I started with PS6 and 256MB ram, 1Ghz machine.

PS speed depends on the file size. I was working with
25Mb file. PS was very very slow and unsable.
I updgraded to 512MB, the situation improved a lot.

I have both PS7 & PS6. PS7 is hogs memory, becomes too
slow after operating on few documents. PS6 is better
in this regard, so I use PS6.


Thanks
Ramesh



 
 
This depends 
--- Anand DHUPKAR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi Mark,
> 
> I have been using PictureIt for my photoediting so
> far.
> Now I am thinking of moving to Photoshop 7.
> What is the memory requirement for it ?  My current
> machine has Windows ME 
> with 256 MB of ram.
> I am planning to have it upgraded to 512 - that is
> the maximum that old 
> machine can accommodate.
> Do I have to move to other machine for memory or 512
> MB would be enough ?
> Other point is I am not professional photographer,
> however, like to play 
> with these tools.
> Would PhotoShop Elements be suffiient ?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> >From: Mark Roberts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: OT:- Scanning for Dummies
> >Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 08:23:47 -0500
> >
> >"Peter Jordan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > >I've finally started to scan some of my 35mm
> trannies, and quickly come 
> >to
> > >the conclusion that I don't know what I'm doing.
> > >
> > >I can make scans and some of them look OK, but I
> have 1001 questions to 
> >ask
> > >around, how to prepare the trannies, the optimum
> dpi, final image size, 
> >best
> > >format to hold the scan files in etc.
> >
> >OK. What scanner are you using? (what resolution
> ate you scanning at?)
> >What image processing software are you using?
> >
> >For images I intend to print I always scan at full
> resolution (that's
> >3600 dpi for my Kodak RFS 3600) in 16-bit color (48
> bits total or 16
> >bits per color). This results in 90-92 megabyte
> files.
> >
> >I have Photoshop 7 so I can do most of what I need
> to do in 16-bit mode
> >before saving to 8-bit for archiving and printing.
> >
> >First, use a blower of some kind to get your slide
> as clean as humanly
> >possible.
> >
> >16-bit mode with my scanner gives basically a RAW
> file of what the CCD
> >saw, so it's usually quite dark. My first few steps
> in Photoshop use the
> >Levels adjustment to get the image *roughly* where
> I want it to be.
> >
> >My first adjustment is of just the bright
> (right-hand) end of the
> >histogram. Then I fine-tune the image rotation
> (it's never quite square
> >in the slide scanner) and then crop out the black
> edges around the
> >border (I make sure my original scan area is
> slightly larger than the
> >viewable portion of the slide).
> >
> >At this point I can be sure that whatever shows up
> at the left-hand edge
> >of the histogram (dark end of the scale) is
> actually dark parts of the
> >image, rather than the unexposed border (well,
> slide mount, actually) so
> >I use the levels adjustment again to set the
> darkest point. Then I use
> >levels a third time to set the mid point to
> *approximately* where I want
> >it.
> >
> >Save after every step :)
> >
> >The next step is removing dust specks with the
> clone tool. If you (and
> >your lab) have been careful this won't take much
> time - I recommend
> >doing your scans as soon as possible after having
> your slides processed.
> >View the image at 100% magnification and clone out
> those little black
> >spots.
> >
> >At this point you can decide how tricky you want to
> get. Taking the
> >simple route, you just make final tweaks with the
> levels tool, convert
> >to 8-bit, save and you're done. I recommend doing a
> *little* sharpening
> >at this point. I sharpen enough for a 12 x 18
> print; that's as big as my
> >printer will do and pretty much as large as I care
> to go with 35mm film
> >anyway. Smaller print sizes will require more
> sharpening and that can
> >always be done later at the time of printing.
> >
> >Remember that with scanned film, sharpening is
> always the
> >*second-to-last* step before printing: After
> sharpening you should do a
> >second search for dust specks that you didn't catch
> the first time
> >around (the sharpening will inevitably bring out
> some that weren't
> >visible, or weren't objectionable, before).
> >
> >For more advanced techniques...
> >
> > >Is there a book or a site along the lines of
> Scanning 101 that will help 
> >me
> > >understand the basics.
> >
> >Photoshop for Photographers, the book that several
> others have
> >recommended.
> >
> >--
> >Mark Roberts
> >Photography and writing
> >www.robertstech.com
> >
> 
>
_
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Re: OT: Sharpening for priniting purpose

[Ramesh Kumar]

Thanks for responding.
I am using scanning at 4000dpi using Nikon LS-4000.

Thanks
Ramesh
--- Paul Stenquist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 360 dpi images should print well. However, the
> sharpness of the prints
> will depend on the accuracy of the scanner. On your
> monitor you should
> be able to see relatively good sharpness at 100%. If
> you don't, your
> prints won't be snappy. What resolution are you
> scanning at?. I
> assume.it must be 4000 dpi if you're able to get 360
> dpi prints at 11 x
> 15. Are you using a film scanner or a flatbed? Is
> the resolution native
> or interpolated? There are a lot of factors involved
> here. If something
> isn't right, your prints will be mush.
> Paul
> 
> Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> > 
> > I does not have any experience in printing. Just
> > started printing using friends Canon printer. I
> have
> > already printed 3 photos of 11x15 size(2 marco and
> 1
> > landscape). Macro prints looks sharper and
> landscape
> > ones are not equally sharp. I do not have any
> problem
> > in getting colors right, thanks to Colovision
> vision
> > spyder.
> > 
> > My questions are
> > 
> > 1) Using Adobe, is it possible to tell how sharp
> the
> > prints are going to be?
> > 
> > 2) Is there a relation between sharpness seen on
> the
> > monitor to sharpness seen on the print?
> > Ex: To get a print that looks SHARP on print,
> should
> > it appear VERY SHARP on monitor?
> > 
> > If there are any books pls suggest.
> > 
> > Technical details:
> > All are 35mm. I am using 360dpi for printing. Most
> of
> > my photos are taken using macro lenses(even the
> > landscapes:-) ) and film is Velvia & Kodak E200.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Ramesh
> > 
> > __
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> 


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Re: FA 50/2.8 Macro

[Ramesh Kumar]

I will try with Cf lens. And just for sake of testing
I will try few glass mounted slides.

Thanks you verymuch
Ramesh
--- graywolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Then there is your problem.
> 
> You have a FF (flat-field) lens that is intended for
> glass mounted slides. A CF 
> (curved-field) lens is for regular slide mounts
> where the film tends to curl a 
> bit. Easiest way to check this out is to buy a small
> box of glass slide mounts 
> and remount some of your slides in them and see if
> that does not fix the problem.
> 
> If it does then your choice is to glass mount your
> favorites, or to find a CF 
> lenses. A note to the wise, if you are serious about
> projecting your slides the 
> glass mounts are the better way to go as the slides
> will last longer, and the 
> images will be sharper. If you are just using the
> projector to view proofs then 
> go with a CF lens as it will be easier and cheaper
> in the long run.
> 
> 
> Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> 
> > its FF lens
> > Ramesh
> > --- graywolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> >>Does the Kodak lens say "CF" or "FF" on it?
> 
> -- 
> graywolf
> http://graywolfphoto.com
> 
> "You might as well accept people as they are,
> you are not going to be able to change them anyway."
> 
> 


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Re: Vic's New Website

[Ramesh Kumar]

Webster falls and church pics are impressive.

Ramesh
--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi guys, threw some images up on a new website. Much
> better viewing than my 
> old (very slow one)
> If you're looking for something to do, check 'em out
> here
> http://groups.msn.com/TheSpiritofNature/shoebox.msnw
> 


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Re: FA 50/2.8 Macro

[Ramesh Kumar]

Need to see whether it is CF or FF

Thanks
Ramesh
--- graywolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Does the Kodak lens say "CF" or "FF" on it?
> 
> Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> > My slides are plastic mounted. In my case,
> expensive
> > projectors and lenses does not seem to solve all
> the
> > problems!!
> > 
> > I have Apollo lens and Kodak Select lens. With
> Appollo
> > lens, its hard to focus on anything. Kodak Select
> lens
> > is very sharp but has poor-edge sharpness problem.
> > Kodak Select lens are expensive series
> > 
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Ramesh
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > 
> > --- graywolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 
> >>Also there are curved field lenses for paper or
> >>plastic mounted slides, and flat 
> >>field lenses for glass mounted slides. If you have
> >>the wrong one you will have 
> >>edge sharpness problems with your projected
> slides.
> >>Also if a non-glass mounted 
> >>slide is kept in the film gate too long the slide
> >>will pop more than normal and 
> >>go out of focus either at the center or the edges.
> >>Then the condensers in the 
> >>projector could be out of alignment. And there
> were
> >>$5 projector lenses and $500 
> >>projector lenses the difference between them is
> >>immense. Back in the old days 
> >>the Leitz and Schneider lenses were the best, with
> >>several brands considered 
> >>somewhat below them. None of the Kodak lenses were
> >>considered great, OK at best.
> >>
> >>All of the above says there could be any number of
> >>reasons his projected slides 
> >>were not super sharp, even if the macro was.
> >>
> >>
> >>William Robb wrote:
> >>
> >>>- Original Message - 
> >>>From: "Fred"
> >>>Subject: Re: FA 50/2.8 Macro
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>>>Sometimes the lens defects in the slide
> >>
> >>projector's lens can make
> >>
> >>>>>>a good slide (taken with a good camera lens)
> >>
> >>look bad.  So, do
> >>
> >>>>>>you know for sure that the slide image itself
> is
> >>
> >>soft at the
> >>
> >>>>>>edges? (Have you checked the slide with a
> >>
> >>loupe?)
> >>
> >>>>>You may be right, this could be due to
> projector.
> >>
> >>I do
> >>
> >>>>>not see this behavoir when viewing on the 17"
> >>
> >>monitor.
> >>
> >>>>I have been right only on very rare occasions,
> >>
> >>Ramesh, so don't take
> >>
> >>>>anything I say too seriously - .
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>In this instance, I would say you are right.
> Slide
> >>
> >>projectors tend to have
> >>
> >>>really bad lenses, though I am sure there are
> >>
> >>exceptions.
> >>
> >>>Also, there is no guarantee that the slide is
> >>
> >>perfectly parallel to the
> >>
> >>>screen, or that the curvature of the lens field
> is
> >>
> >>identical to the
> >>
> >>>curvature of the slide (there will be some,
> unless
> >>
> >>it is glass mounted).
> >>
> >>>As well, to get maximum light transmission,
> >>
> >>projector lenses tend to be
> >>
> >>>pretty fast optics, which leads to a whole nother
> >>
> >>set of problems.
> >>
> >>>Making a decision about camera lens quality by
> >>
> >>viewing a slide show isn't
> >>
> >>>thinking things through very well.
> >>>
> >>>William Robb
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>-- 
> >>graywolf
> >>http://graywolfphoto.com
> >>
> >>"You might as well accept people as they are,
> >>you are not going to be able to change them
> anyway."
> >>
> >>
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > __
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> graywolf
> http://graywolfphoto.com
> 
> "You might as well accept people as they are,
> you are not going to be able to change them anyway."
> 
> 


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setting aperture in OptioS?

[Ramesh Kumar]

Is there a way to set the aperture in OptioS?
Like Av funcationality. 
It always seems to be in 2.8


Thanks
Ramesh

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Re: FA 50/2.8 Macro

[Ramesh Kumar]

My slides are plastic mounted. In my case, expensive
projectors and lenses does not seem to solve all the
problems!!

I have Apollo lens and Kodak Select lens. With Appollo
lens, its hard to focus on anything. Kodak Select lens
is very sharp but has poor-edge sharpness problem.
Kodak Select lens are expensive series


Thanks
Ramesh



 


--- graywolf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Also there are curved field lenses for paper or
> plastic mounted slides, and flat 
> field lenses for glass mounted slides. If you have
> the wrong one you will have 
> edge sharpness problems with your projected slides.
> Also if a non-glass mounted 
> slide is kept in the film gate too long the slide
> will pop more than normal and 
> go out of focus either at the center or the edges.
> Then the condensers in the 
> projector could be out of alignment. And there were
> $5 projector lenses and $500 
> projector lenses the difference between them is
> immense. Back in the old days 
> the Leitz and Schneider lenses were the best, with
> several brands considered 
> somewhat below them. None of the Kodak lenses were
> considered great, OK at best.
> 
> All of the above says there could be any number of
> reasons his projected slides 
> were not super sharp, even if the macro was.
> 
> 
> William Robb wrote:
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Fred"
> > Subject: Re: FA 50/2.8 Macro
> > 
> > 
> > 
> Sometimes the lens defects in the slide
> projector's lens can make
> a good slide (taken with a good camera lens)
> look bad.  So, do
> you know for sure that the slide image itself is
> soft at the
> edges? (Have you checked the slide with a
> loupe?)
> >>
> >>>You may be right, this could be due to projector.
> I do
> >>>not see this behavoir when viewing on the 17"
> monitor.
> >>
> >>I have been right only on very rare occasions,
> Ramesh, so don't take
> >>anything I say too seriously - .
> > 
> > 
> > In this instance, I would say you are right. Slide
> projectors tend to have
> > really bad lenses, though I am sure there are
> exceptions.
> > Also, there is no guarantee that the slide is
> perfectly parallel to the
> > screen, or that the curvature of the lens field is
> identical to the
> > curvature of the slide (there will be some, unless
> it is glass mounted).
> > As well, to get maximum light transmission,
> projector lenses tend to be
> > pretty fast optics, which leads to a whole nother
> set of problems.
> > Making a decision about camera lens quality by
> viewing a slide show isn't
> > thinking things through very well.
> > 
> > William Robb
> > 
> > 
> 
> -- 
> graywolf
> http://graywolfphoto.com
> 
> "You might as well accept people as they are,
> you are not going to be able to change them anyway."
> 
> 


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Re: FA 50/2.8 Macro

[Ramesh Kumar]

> > Recently I started observing the sharpness in
> edges during
> > projection. I found that sharpness reduction in
> the edges is
> > apparently, on some cases it is too obvious.
> 
> Sometimes the lens defects in the slide projector's
> lens can make a
> good slide (taken with a good camera lens) look bad.
>  So, do you
> know for sure that the slide image itself is soft at
> the edges?
> (Have you checked the slide with a loupe?)
> 
> Fred

You may be right, this could be due to projector. I do
not see this behavoir when viewing on the 17" monitor.

I do not have loupe to compare.
I use Etkapro projector with KODAK EKTAPRO SELECT
Lens.


Thanks
Ramesh

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Re: FA 50/2.8 Macro

[Ramesh Kumar]

I have this macro lens. I use this for landscape
photography too. Recently I started observing the
sharpness in edges during projection. I found that
sharpness reduction in the edges is apparently, on
some cases it is too obvious. I was not comparing the
test charts and they were mostly landscape shots. 

I do not know whether this is the rightway to see the
sharpness in edges.

I have never printed my slides so do not how it is
going to come on print.

I do not how bad is this compared to other makes and
other pentax lenses beacuse I have not used any other
photo system.

I would like to hear others experience about this.

Thanks
Ramesh


 
--- £ukasz_Kacperczyk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi there,
> 
> I have an opportunity to buy this lens in ex +
> condition for the equivalent
> of $188. Is this a good price?
> 
> And another question - I love 50/55mm lenses. Really
> liked my M 50/1.7, was
> very fond of the FA 50/1.4, and now I'm a proud (and
> happy) owner of one K
> 55/1.8 and one K 50/1.4. But... Always willing to
> try something new, I
> thought I'd a macro 50mm a shot this time. Since I
> lost an A 50/2.8 auction
> on ebay last night, I thought maybe the FA 50/2.8
> would be a good choice,
> since I have one available locally.
> 
> How bulky is this lens compared to e.g. a K 50/1.4?
> Subjectively speaking -
> I know their dimentions. How is the manual focus? I
> love the feel of manual
> lenses, but can live with what my FA 35/2 can offer.
> I'll use this lens
> (i.e. the FA 50/2.8) on a MX. I'm not that much of a
> "macro-shooter", but
> would like the ability to close focus to 0,19m.
> Anything else I should know?
> 
> TIA.
> 
> Regards,
> £ukasz
> 
>   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ===
>  www.fotopolis.pl
> ===
>  internetowy magazyn o fotografii
> 
> 


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Get rid of 50mm macro

[Ramesh Kumar]

I have two macros 50mm & 100mm.
I do not use macro feature of 50mm and using it as
regular lens. I am planning to replace this with some
non-macro 50mm lens or Tokina 28-80/mm f2.8 zoom.
By doing this, am I loosing anything other than macro
feature?



Thanks
Ramesh

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OT: ColorVision Spyder sale for 70$

[Ramesh Kumar]

Spyder sales is going on for 120$. If you subtract
manufacturer rebate of 50$, final price comes to 70$

http://www.calumetphoto.com/syrinx/ctl?PAGE=Controller&ac.ui.pn=home.Home&sl=0


Thanks
Ramesh

 

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Incident meter info needed

[Ramesh Kumar]

Hi,
 I need to improve my ability to judge the
tonality. I mostly do landscape work & I use spot
meter more.

I am planning to buy a Incident meter and practice
metering things around me. This may improve my
tonality judging skills and one day I may be able
judge the tonality of distant objects.

I know I need an Incident meter.

I have few question.
*) What are other usefull features available in
Incident meter (like ambient meter, flash meter) 

*) Difference b/w anolog & digital meters is only the
needle? or are there any other differences?
*) What I gain with Digital meter? Are they more
accurate?

I will be spending 200usd at most. Any brand
suggestions are welcome.

Thanks
Ramesh




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Re: ist 35mm

[Ramesh Kumar]

I am user of MZ5n. This weekend while doing landscape
photography, camera kept on hunting and was not able
to use AF. I was using 100mm lens.

I too feel I need better AF and *ist is a good choice.
But I will wait till the next generation of *ist. Next
generation of *ist may have good viewfinder, so that I
can manual AF.


Thanks
Ramesh
--- Peter Alling <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It's a trade off, you get better auto-focus you lose
> in manual focus, if 
> you don't
> need the money I'd keep the ZX-5n and buy the *ist. 
> It's always good to 
> have a backup.
> 
> At 10:40 PM 10/13/03, you wrote:
> >all i need is a better autofocus and better
> metering. when shooting a family
> >gatherings, i dont have the time for the camera to
> hunt for focus, by the
> >time its done i missed the shot. and i dont have
> the time for doing all the
> >manual settings, or compensation. i need to be able
> to shoot and get a good
> >image. when i am at the top of the empire state
> building (as i was tonight)
> >then i have time to make sure the shot is exactly
> what i want.
> >
> >also the advanced flash capability (p-ttl,
> wireless, contrast control synch)
> >is very useful for me.
> >
> >
> >- Original Message -
> >From: "Peter Alling" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Monday, October 13, 2003 10:20 PM
> >Subject: Re: ist 35mm
> >
> >
> > > The *ist will give you superior autofocus, and a
> slightly better light
> >meter
> > > if I remember the specifications correctly.  It
> is smaller and lighter and
> >the
> > > battery grip has a vertical release, (a nice
> touch).  To get that you get
> > > slightly
> > > more difficult manual focus, (air prism, not
> glass so the viewfinder isn't
> > > as bright),
> > > smaller viewfinder with lower magnification and
> less coverage on the
> > > film.  Loss of the
> > > use of the aperture ring in metered manual, (you
> use a multifunction dial
> > > on the body).
> > > I think you lose the TTL flash during exposure
> but get P-TTL flash as well
> > > but that I'm
> > > not sure that about.
> > >
> > > At 03:02 PM 10/10/03, you wrote:
> > > >Joe
> > > >
> > > >i own a zx-5n and i'm pretty happy with it. the
> mount doesn't affect me
> > > >because both my lenses are fa. The question i
> have is whether the ist
> >would
> > > >be an upgrade, and whether its worth the money.
> > > >
> > > >arnie
> > > >
> > > >- Original Message -
> > > >From: "Joe Wilensky" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > >Sent: Friday, October 10, 2003 10:43 AM
> > > >Subject: Re: ist 35mm
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I think the question was about the *ist film
> camera. I haven't played
> > > > > with one, but I did recently pick up an
> MZ-5n (ZX-5n). The advantages
> > > > > to the MZ/ZX-5n would be its compatability
> with all K-mount (and
> > > > > screwmount) lenses and its classical
> interface, much like an
> > > > > autofocus combo between the MX and Super
> Program.
> > > > >
> > > > >  From what I've seen, the ZX-5n fetches
> quite a bit on the used
> > > > > market, as it is recognized as being the
> top-of-the-line ZX series
> > > > > camera with its spotmetering, bracketing,
> TTL flash, etc. I know the
> > > > > MZ-3 is even higher spec'd (and its prices
> reflect that), but it is
> > > > > rarely found in North America, it seems.
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > >On Fri, 10 Oct 2003, arnie wrote:
> > > > > >>  I was wondering if anyone has any
> experience with the ist 35mm
> >camera
> > > >and
> > > > > >>  how it stacks up vs. the zx-5n. some of
> the ist's features look
> >very
> > > > > >>  enticing - 11 point autofocus, advanced
> flash, 17 custom functions
> > > > > >
> > > > > >I own both, although I really haven't used
> the ZX-5n in about a year.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >The *ist D is a little bigger, better
> built, has faster autofocus,
> >and
> > > > > >a different UI.  The ZX-5n UI is really the
> classic SLR UI, you set
> > > > > >aperature on the lens and shutter speed
> with a dial on top of the
> > > > > >camera.  The *ist D UI is the modern SLR
> UI, you have two jog dials
> >on
> > > > > >the body, one of which sets aperature and
> one of which sets shutter
> > > > > >speed.  The ZX-5n UI is really nice if you
> love classic SLRs, but the
> > > > > >*ist D UI has the advantages of supporting
> hypermanual and
> > > > > >hyperprogram.  Those are two features that
> I never really thought
> > > > > >I'd care about until I owned a camera with
> them.  Now I pretty much
> > > > > >use either hypermanual or hyperprogram for
> every shot.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >I should probably sell my ZX-5n, but I'm
> afraid that they probably
> > > > > >don't fetch too much on the used market.  I
> also have an MX and think
> > > > > >I'd grab it if I was shooting film.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >alex
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > >
> > > > > Joe Wilensky
> > > > > Staff Writer
> > > > > Communication and Mark

RE: Metering reflections

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- josvdh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > -Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> > Van: Ramesh Kumar [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >
> > Here is a scenario. Assume you are shooting a
> > reflection of sunlit tree; reflection is occupying
> > full frame. Water is dark except for the
> reflection.
> >
> > When I spot meter for dark subject, I do -2 stops
> to
> > get %18gray.
> >
> > Going back to above scenario, If I SPOT meter the
> > "reflection of sunlit tree", should I have to
> > compensate by -2?
> >
> > Basically, should I have to do anything special
> > compensation just beacuse its reflection. or
> should I
> > treat as any other shot?
> > > Thanks
> > Ramesh
> >
> Dear Ramesh,
> Some thoughts about your problem:
> In general, a "normal" scene would contain "normal"
> blacks and "normal"
> whites.
> Normal black has a reflectivity of let us say: 2%
> Normal white has a reflectivity of 100%
> This means if you light this scene with a soft box
> (clouded sky, the light
> is not adding contrast) the contrast ratio of the
> scene would be 1:50.
> Your film (depending on the type) can handle this
> contrast ratio.
> To minimize grain, you donot want to overexpose, so
> you want the black (of
> 2% reflectivity)just on the beginning of sensitivity
> curve of the film. If,
> for your film with your development process, this
> point is 3 stops below the
> suppliers ISO rating of the film, you could do a
> spot metering of the 2%
> black and set your camera to an ISO setting 3 stops
> below the film ISO and
> you will have the right exposure!
> 
> You might as well measure the light of a gray card
> with 18% reflectivity,
> and use the suppliers ISO rating. This would give
> the same result because
> 18% is almost 3 stops above 2%!
> 
> If, in the above example, you want to see details in
> black of 1%
> reflectivity you have to increase exposure with one
> stop.
> Your contrast ratio now will be 100:1, the film can
> still handle.
> 
> If your scene has abnormal black, for instance a
> "black hole" with 0.1%
> reflectivity, the contrast ratio becomes 1000:1,
> your film will not be able
> to handle, and you have the choice: details visible
> in the blacks or in the
> whites, but not both with this film.
> 
> In case of light reflections on water or on leaves,
> they sometimes act like
> little mirrors reflecting light sources (sun, lamps
> etc)in this case the
> light intensity can be 10 times higher than "normal"
> whites, no film can
> handle the corresponding contrast ratio!
> If you try to measure those "extreem whites" you
> could underexpose the
> blacks and greys far too much.
> 

I guess "extreem whites" mean glare. I was using
polarizer and removed the glare.

> If I understand your scene well, you donot have the
> case of abnormal whites.
> You have a normal scene that is reflected in the
> water acting as a not very
> bright mirror, maybe you loose 1 or two stops in
> this mirror.
> You should be able to measure the reflected scene
> like any other normal
> scene.
> 
> If you take too much time to analyse the scene on
> forehand, sometimes the
> scene is over (sun is gone!), before you are ready
> to take the picture.
> In your case I would measure a part of the scene
> corresponding to 18% grey
> and expose according to that.
> If I would think that the picture might be a goody,
> I would use braketing +
> and minus one or two stops depending om the type of
> film.
How max stops of bracketing is normally used for
Velvia 100F and Kodak E200?.
I guess 1stop max for Velvia and 2stop max for E200.



> I would never base an analysis on a measurement with
> matrix metering, as
> matrix metering is using algoritms unknown to us, it
> is un predictable (but
> often very acurate!).
> 
> Just some of my thinking!
> Jos
> 

Thanks for informative response
Ramesh

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Metering reflections

[Ramesh Kumar]

Here is a scenario. Assume you are shooting a
reflection of sunlit tree; reflection is occupying
full frame. Water is dark except for the reflection.  

When I spot meter for dark subject, I do -2 stops to
get %18gray.

Going back to above scenario, If I SPOT meter the
"reflection of sunlit tree", should I have to
compensate by -2?

Basically, should I have to do anything special
compensation just beacuse its reflection. or should I
treat as any other shot?

Thanks
Ramesh 

 

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Slide film advise

[Ramesh Kumar]

I normally use Kodak E200 & Fuji Velvia 50.
I feel Kodak E200 bit too flat & Velvia too slow. 

I am looking for 200 or 400 film with more saturation
than E200. Here are my options.

Using Provia 200 or Sensia 200, can I get more
saturation that Kodak E200?

Using Provia 400 or Sensia 400, can I get more
saturation that Kodak E200?

Normally, does saturation reduce as you increase the
speed?

Assume I am shooting on cloudy day.

Thanks
Ramesh

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RE: Pentax 35-135ish lens?

[Ramesh Kumar]

i was looking in pentax usa site and this lens is  not
listed there.

thanks
ramesh

--- Hans Beumer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> there is an F 35-135/3.5-4.5 lens, and a A
> 35-135/3.5-4.5 lens.
> Look at http://www.bdimitrov.de/kmp/ for some info.
> No idea abou the
> quality.
> Regards, Hans B
> 
> 
> mail to:
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> 
> 
> -Oorspronkelijk bericht-
> Van: Ramesh Kumar [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Verzonden: dinsdag 7 oktober 2003 19:44
> Aan: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Onderwerp: Pentax 35-135ish lens?
> 
> 
> I was looking for AF lens in the range of 35-135ish.
> During this I found Pentax has so many versions in
> the
> 28-80ish range but none in 35-135sh range.
> 
> Instead of churning out the same thing again and
> again, Why can't pentax come out with new focal
> length
> range?
> 
> Any idea how much work it takes to design new focal
> lenght in 35-135ish  rage?
> I know Pentax had A 28-135mm.
> 
> Another way to get this range is to use 28-70 f2.8
> with *istD.
> 
> Canon has 28-135mm IS and Nikon has 24-120mm VR.
> Image stabilization makes it really good travel
> lens.
> I thought of changing to Canon just beacuse of this
> nice range & IS. Thing that's keeping me in pentax
> is
> compact size of the camera body.
> Hope Pentax comes with an IS lens in this range.
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Ramesh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> 
> 


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Pentax 35-135ish lens?

[Ramesh Kumar]

I was looking for AF lens in the range of 35-135ish.
During this I found Pentax has so many versions in the
28-80ish range but none in 35-135sh range.

Instead of churning out the same thing again and
again, Why can't pentax come out with new focal length
range? 

Any idea how much work it takes to design new focal
lenght in 35-135ish  rage?
I know Pentax had A 28-135mm.

Another way to get this range is to use 28-70 f2.8
with *istD. 

Canon has 28-135mm IS and Nikon has 24-120mm VR.
Image stabilization makes it really good travel lens.
I thought of changing to Canon just beacuse of this
nice range & IS. Thing that's keeping me in pentax is
compact size of the camera body. 
Hope Pentax comes with an IS lens in this range. 


Thanks
Ramesh
 
 






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Making monopod out of tripod

[Ramesh Kumar]

I can remove centre column of Slik 700DXPro tripod.
Planning to use it as monopod. 
I thinks its bit short. total lenght from bottom to
top of the head comes to 24inches.

Has anybody tried using this way?

Thanks
Rsmesh

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Re: Pentax 28-105mm f/3.2-4.5 AL IF

[Ramesh Kumar]

Boris wrote:
>It would be odd to expect from a 100 mm macro lens to
>be well suited
>for landscape. IMHO, the only truly universal lens is
>50 mm which you
>might want to get. But then you have 24/2.8 that I
>think is suite for
>landscapes. I got mine just two days ago, so I
>couldn't try it. But I
>surely will.

Sticking to just 24mm, 50mm is a limitation for me. My
experience says, using telephoto you can get closer 
views which you can not get using 24mm & 50mm. 
Ex: intersection of two mountains. These narrow views
are as intesresting as shots which covers whole
mountain range.

I feel 100mm is not sufficient is limiting at times. I
think 80-200mm is very good choice. I was thinking 
buying Tokina 80-200mm f2.8.


I used 100mm macro for these
http://www.asnowfall.com/Scan/Page19/USVMTP004019.html
http://www.asnowfall.com/Scan/Page26/USADRP003624.html
http://www.asnowfall.com/Scan/Page32/USNVTP003211.html


Thanks
Ramesh







--- Boris Liberman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi!
> 
> RK> I will stick to my 100mm macro. I do not want
> buy
> RK> another 100mm lens just beacuse I do not want to
> RK> accumulate more lens!!!. At the same time I am
> not
> RK> happy with 100mm macro's performance when used
> for
> RK> landscape shots, this seems to be related to
> infinity
> RK> focus. 
> 
> It would be odd to expect from a 100 mm macro lens
> to be well suited
> for landscape. IMHO, the only truly universal lens
> is 50 mm which you
> might want to get. But then you have 24/2.8 that I
> think is suite for
> landscapes. I got mine just two days ago, so I
> couldn't try it. But I
> surely will.
> 
> Though 24,50,100 macro is going to weigh probably 3
> times the weight
> of zoom lens, it is an excellent set.
> 
> Boris
> 


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Pentax 28-105mm f/3.2-4.5 AL IF

[Ramesh Kumar]

I am planning a hiking trip in fall and I want to
reduce the my lens weight.

I want to replace my 50mm/2.8 macro & 100mm/2.8 macro
with Pentax 28-105mm f/3.2-4.5 AL IF.

I neither need macro capability and nor the speed. And
I will be using Pentax 28-105mm f/3.2-4.5 between
30-100mm.  

Taking in to account above given usage manner,
optically, how much inferior is the  Pentax 28-105mm
f/3.2-4.5 to  50mm/2.8 macro &  100mm/2.8 macro? 

I will be caryying A24/2.8mm, I like its compactness
and low weight.

At present I do not have Pentax 28-105mm f/3.2-4.5 AL
IF, if the user's opinion is good, I will order for
one.


Thanks 
Ramesh


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Re: I haven't got *Ist D

[Ramesh Kumar]

Its hard to resist the temptation to buy. I hardly
shoot b/w Nov & March; during this snowy period I do
not travel much because I do not have big tire pickup.


I will wait for second generation of *istD, let Pentax
fix bugs.

Thanks
Ramesh


--- Herb Chong <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> just reading the article on Art Wolfe in this
> month's Outdoor Photographer
> where Kenneth Waller's picture appears, i see that
> Wolfe shoots about 2000
> rolls of film a year.  i would have shot somewhere a
> little above 200 rolls
> a year without my digital camera. at about $15/roll
> including film and
> processing and knowing that 80% of my images are
> destined for editorial
> stock, film is overkill. i'll still continue to
> shoot film for the
> foreseable future, but only when i think i might be
> getting an image for
> selling as a print.
> 
> Herb
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Boris Liberman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Hans Beumer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 2:24 PM
> Subject: Re: I haven't got *Ist D
> 
> 
> > Neither have I. But I also don't really want one.
> I am pretty much
> > happy with my ZX-L, several lenses, ME Super
> seemingly permanently in
> > repairs and one film a week that I try to shoot.
> 
> 


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Re: *ist D and slide copying

[Ramesh Kumar]

Pls share the output. I am curious to see how it is
compared to scanner output.

Thanks
Ramesh

--- Leon Altoff <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi all.
> 
> I've just made the adaptor that makes my AutoBellows
> A appear to be an
> f1.0 A lens set to A when attached to my *istD.
> 
> After about 2 minutes setting it all up with an
> AF360 connected via an
> off camera cable and adjusting the focus, it took me
> about 3 minutes to
> scan 34 slides at 6.1 megapixel RAW format.  It then
> took about 10
> minutes to download those from the camera to the
> computer, but I'll
> soon have a way around that.
> 
> What's even better is that I can zoom in on a small
> section of the
> slide and still get full resolution.  The AF360 and
> P-TTL gives near
> perfect exposure from slides out by upto about 1.5
> stops either way. 
> Beyond that you start running into limits of what is
> on the film
> (though one slide which is about 3 stops under came
> up quite good with
> a touch of Photoshop).
> 
> By the way, am I the only person on this list who
> attaches bellows to
> modern autofocus cameras?
> 
> 
>  Leon
> 
> http://www.bluering.org.au
> http://www.bluering.org.au/leon
> 
> 


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Re: Question about MZ-5n

[Ramesh Kumar]

This is my experience with MZ-5n
I purchased my MZ-5n in 98.  Recently its flash spring
broke.
Recently I found that its metering needs calibration. 

Pentax asked $180 to fix this.


Thanks
Ramesh
--- Boris Liberman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi!
> 
> My co-worker is willing to sell me his MZ-5n camera.
> He bought it some 
> 5 years ago, roughly one year after it was
> introduced. This one is 
> made in Japan. The only problem that this body seems
> to have is a 
> built-in flash spring. But I think I can live with
> this. Now he is 
> asking $250.
> 
> I have basically two questions:
> 
> 1. What else can go wrong with MZ-5n after 5 years
> of moderate use? 
> This camera never was CLA'ed, nor it was submitted
> to other 
> procedures.
> 
> 2. Is above a fair price?
> 
> Any other advise will be appreciated.
> 
> P.S. I think my ME Super is not going to survive the
> repairs. The 
> repairman has taken the shutter apart and found some
> part that needs 
> to be replaced. He does not seem to be able to find
> the darn part. 
> Most probably I will sell the poor guy for parts to
> the same repairman 
> for whatever money he'd be willing to give me.
> 
> 
> 


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Re: Another one bites the dust

[Ramesh Kumar]

Online shops & eBay may be affecting the retail shop
business.
I am also interested in buying in local shops but I
find their prices ridiculously high compared to eBay.
eBay beats even B&H.
Me and my friends always use online shops except for
film processing.

Thanks
Ramesh


--- "J. C. O'Connell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> For the second time in six months I went to
> one of my favorite camera stores here in south
> Florida only to find it boarded up CLOSED.
> 
> This shop had been around at least 20 years.
> They were a one hour photo when one hour photo
> was novel. They also had a pretty big selection
> of used camera equip and always a good stock
> of BW photo paper and chemistry. Now I am forced
> to buy all my darkroom stuff mail order.
> 
> This is sad
> I wonder if digital is going to do all of these
> shops in soon...
> 
> :(
> 
>

> 
>  J.C. O'Connell   mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  
> http://jcoconnell.com
>

> 
> 


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Re: Tripods usage with DSLR

[Ramesh Kumar]

Your earlier response did surprise me.
May be becuase you read too many PDML mails:-)

Thanks
Ramesh

--- Lon Williamson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ramesh, I think I misunderstood an earlier post
> you made on this subject.  I thought you were
> talking
> about film cameras when you said you could boost
> ISO,
> as if it were aperature or shutter, to continue to
> handhold.  My apologies.
> 
> If every dumb post I've made on PDML were
> emblazed on bronze, people would spit on me.
> 
> PackToooye!  (fer example).-Lon
> 
> Ramesh Kumar wrote:
> 
> > Predicting the light condition of the subject is
> > difficult, so the deciding the ISO in advance.
> > 
> > Assume, I have shot first frames(say 5) with rated
> ISO
> > and then increase  ISO speed. In this case I need
> to
> > push frames 5 to 35.
> > Can I instruct the lab to push only 5 to 35?
> > Pls let me know if its possible.
> > 
> > In case of DSLR we can change the ISO speed per
> frame.
> > 
> > 
> > I will agree that high ISO will introduce noise
> and
> > usage of tripod is recommended.
> > 
> > When tripod is not available, given a choice b/w
> not
> > shooting and shooting with slight noise, latter
> seems
> > to decent choice.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > Ramesh
> > 
> > 
> > __
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> > 
> > 
> 
> 


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Re: Tripods usage with DSLR

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- William Robb <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The same can be said with film. You can put a faster
> film in the camera (or
> dial up the ISO with the intention of "push
> processing") until you get a
> shutter speed you think you can hand hold.

Predicting the light condition of the subject is
difficult, so the deciding the ISO in advance.

Assume, I have shot first frames(say 5) with rated ISO
and then increase  ISO speed. In this case I need to
push frames 5 to 35.
Can I instruct the lab to push only 5 to 35?
Pls let me know if its possible.

In case of DSLR we can change the ISO speed per frame.


I will agree that high ISO will introduce noise and
usage of tripod is recommended.

When tripod is not available, given a choice b/w not
shooting and shooting with slight noise, latter seems
to decent choice.

Thanks
Ramesh


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Tripods usage with DSLR

[Ramesh Kumar]

*istD or any equivalent DSLR seems to reproduce decent
outputs at higher ISO(say 400+) speeds. 

In outdoor photography, for an amature photographer,
if the focal length of the lens is less than 135mm, I
think tripod may not be a real necessicity.

This comes as big relief for me because I need not
have to carry my 3KG tripod for hiking.

I agree tripod is needed for long teles like 300mm/2.8
because their weight makes it difficult to do handheld
photography.  

I would like hear other opinion on this.

Thanks
Ramesh  
 



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Re: istD with old lenses and/or extension tubes

[Ramesh Kumar]

>However, one could by a cheap short extension tube
> get rid of the coupler
> in it
> and use it with a lens. You will lose infinity focus
> though but your lens
> will be intact.

Few days back, Mark had posted a review of *istD. In
that review author expressed similar solution.

Thanks
Ramesh

--- Frank Wajer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi all,
> 
> I just realised that the extension tubes won't work
> with the ist D, because
> they do not have the A contacts. Any lens connected
> through the extension
> tube will not work correctly on the istD, because it
> will look like an M
> or K
> lens to the body.
> Then I read the trick of using old M or K lenses on
> the istD by rotating
> the lens a little or eliminating the aperture
> coupler. This makes the lens
> "useless" on analog camera's.
> However, one could by a cheap short extension tube
> get rid of the coupler
> in it
> and use it with a lens. You will lose infinity focus
> though but your lens
> will be intact.
> 
> Frank
> 


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Re: *istD vs. Optio 550

[Ramesh Kumar]

Nuetral graduated filter is a great tool for landscape
photography; you can not use such filters with Optio55
and you can use it with *istD.


Ramesh


--- "Dowell,Jackie [Burlington]"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I am trying to decide which of these 2 digitals
> would be most 
> cost-effective to buy since I feel that a digital
> would be
> useful for my picture taking.
> 
> I normally do 3 types of pictures. (I currently have
> a MZ5n)
> 1- nature - (usually floral) using Velvia (50 but
> trying 100f now)
> 2- portrait - if skin tones are important, I use
> Portra 160NC
> 3- other - I usually use Royal Gold 400
> 
> I have 2 questions that that will influence my
> decision.
> 1- What type of film does a digital picture from the
> *istD most
> resemble. And the same question for the Optio 550
> 2- If the same picture were taken with optimal
> settings by the
> *istD and the Optio 550, how big can the picture be
> printed 
> without noticing that it was a digital rather than a
> film.
> 
> If I can use the digital for type 3 only, than I
> will get the Optio,
> however, if I can match the colour of the Portra
> and/or the Velvia
> and can print 8x10 or larger, then I will bite the
> bullet and go
> into hock for the *istD.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
>  
> 


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Re: Metering problem in Mz-5n

[Ramesh Kumar]

Just followup.
I did a metering test using OptioS and Mz-5n;
found that latter overexposes by 2 stops.

Thanks
Ramesh

--- Alan Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >My Mz-5n is 4 years old and seems to overexpose the
> >slides latley.
> >Today I showed to local shop guy, he did compare
> >metering using his lightbox and told my camera is
> >overexposing by 2 stops!!! He told me that is
> common
> >problem with Pentax cameras.
> 
> I do not believe this is a common problem with
> Pentax.
> 
> >I have problem with built in flash too; when I lift
> >the flash it does not stand and it falls down.
> Looks
> >like spring is broken.
> 
> Quite possible the plastic pin that holds the spring
> is broken, instead of 
> the spring itself. Now this is a common problem with
> MZ/ZX bodies, and the 
> Z-1p too, and I know somebody simply drilled a hole
> and put a metal pin 
> there. A design flaw imho.
> 
> >Ideally, instead of repairing it, I would have
> liked
> >to replace it with fully backward comapatible *ist
> >film slr. But there is not even rumours about such
> >camera. I think I will send it for CLA.
> 
> Shouldn't be expensive to fix, except for the
> labour.
> 
> Alan Chan
> http://www.pbase.com/wlachan
> 
>
_
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>
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> 


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Re: *istD images posted

[Ramesh Kumar]

You say no software modification, 
Was the camera's inbuilt sharpening enabled?
Anyway great macro shots.

Thanks
Ramesh




--- Harold Owen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A Japanese owner of a Pentax *istD has just posted
> some unmanipulated
> images on the following website, they have been
> taken with a number of
> lenses.
> 
> Be warned they will take a while to download if your
> are using a 56K
> modem!
> 
> Website URL:-
> 
>
http://www.geocities.co.jp/Technopolis-Jupiter/2795/istD/istD_Sample.htm
> 
> The EXIF information is available to check out what
> settings have been
> used.
> 
> In addition Phil Askey (DPReview) who appears to be
> in the process of
> assessing the camera has also posted a resolution
> chart and colour
> chart:-
> 
>
http://img.dpreview.com/reviews/samples/rescharts/pentax_istd.jpg
> 
>
http://img.dpreview.com/reviews/samples/colourpatches/pentax_istd.jpg
> 
> The charts were photographed using a 50mm f1.4 lens.
> 
> Harry
> -- 
> Harold Owen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 


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Re: more wide angle filter stuff

[Ramesh Kumar]

I searched for MARUMI in ebay and found couple of
hits.
MARUMI is not listed in famous US based online-shops
but its available in eBay.

Thanks
Ramesh
--- Amita Guha <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Thanks, Kostas and Sylwester...
> 
> My hood doesn't have a front thread, and I'm having
> a hard time finding
> a place to buy the Marumi filters.
> 
> I've been looking around online and some people talk
> about using step-up
> rings...could I perhaps use a normal-width filter
> with a step-up ring
> and avoid vignetting that way?
> 
> Thanks,
> Amita
> 


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Re: Rectangular filters

[Ramesh Kumar]

I use P series square filter with 24mm. Here are some
results. 

1) "square filter holder + square filter + circular
polarizer" resulted in vignetting.

2) "square filter holder + square filter" did not have
vignetting.

3) "square filter + circular polarizer" did not have
vignetting. In this method, I will hold the filter by
hand, this is fast, more light comes into camera and I
will get to use polarizer. I use this method while
using 50mm, 100mm lens. 




Thanks
Ramesh 

--- Mark Roberts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Stephen Moore <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> >
> >To those who've had experience with these things --
> >
> >At 84mm, is the Cokin P system likely to vignette
> >if used with lenses having 77mm front elements?
> >Or do I need to be thinking about the Hitech-size
> >systems instead?
> 
> I use the Cokin P holder (with HiTech filters) on
> lenses with 77mm
> filter threads (Pentax FA*80-200/2.8 and Tokina
> 28-70/2.6-2.8). Never
> had vignetting problems with either, even at 28mm.
> 
> -- 
> Mark Roberts
> Photography and writing
> www.robertstech.com
> 


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Re: More serious competition for *ist-D - Kiss Digital/300D

[Ramesh Kumar]

My most expensive lens is Tamron 300mm/2.8 and paid
700usd. I spent 1500usd on my Nikon LS-4000 scanner.

There are set of people who can not spend 1.5K on
camera body.

There are another set of people(like me), who can 
spend money but it takes long time convince
themselves. One year back, I never thought that I will
be spending 700usd on a single lens(300mm/2.8); it
took more than 6 months to convince myself that I can
not get 300mm/2.8 lens for 400usd and need to spend at
least 700usd. 

Similarly, at present I am trying to convince myself
that I need to spend 1.5K to buy a DSLR.


Thanks
Ramesh









--- Mark Roberts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> "Gary L. Murphy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> >Mark Roberts wrote:
> >
> >>How about an informal survey of how many people on
> this list own cameras
> >>of any type/brand that cost $900 or more (I'll
> make that a little bit
> >>approximate and include the MZ-S).
> >>
> >
> >If you make that "anything that shoots" I've got
> several in and beyond 
> >that price range. :-)
> 
> HAR!
> 
> I just thought of a better survey question to ask:
> How many people have never spent over $500 for a
> camera?
> (And how much of the camera-buying public falls
> under this category?)
> 
> -- 
> Mark Roberts
> Photography and writing
> www.robertstech.com
> 


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Virus for digicams

[Ramesh Kumar]

http://www.photosig.com/go/forums/read?id=207435

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Re: optio s

[Ramesh Kumar]

Recently I brought OptioS. This is my first p&s camera
including film & digital and felt really uncomfortable
using controls and useless viewfinder.

Manual focus: I feel very uncomfrable using LCD screen
during the focussing. AF is not reliable.

Controls: To change some of the values, you need to do
3-4 clicks. Ex: To change the metering modes, it needs
to do 3 operation. I am used Mz-5n where I do this
with single click. Hope *IstD does not have this
problem.

I never knew there is something called Auto WB. In my
camera, WB always stays in DayLight, I need to set it
to Fluro.., Incan.. manually.

I guess most of the people may be using LCD screen for
everything; I do not think viewfinder adds any value. 

Do we need viewfinder at all?

Thanks
Ramesh

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I've had one now for 3 days and would like to hear
> what others who have it
> think.  I finally got a digital camera b/c I wanted
> one that I could
> easily take anywhere. (the ZX-5n with battery pack
> and 500ftz could be
> obtrusive at times)  In the altoids tin it fits
> neatly in the coin pocket
> of my pants.
> 
> Here are my impressions:
> Pros
> Size...Size...Size
> I was very impressed with its macro capabilities.
> Exposure and color balance seem to be dead on most
> of the time.
> Decent flash power for its size.
> You can hand hold a much slower speeds with decent
> results.
> 
> Cons
> Quite a bit of edge distortion but I was aware of
> this from the reviews
> and was willing to sacrifice this for the size. 
> After use, its not that
> bad, and being aware of this, I can compose a shot
> so that I can allow for
> the edges to be cropped out.
> 
> Auto focus seems to be pretty weak, it seems there
> must be a pretty large
> contrast to get a good lock.  Anyone else having
> trouble with this?
> 
> Auto white balance doesn't work very well.  Under
> incandescent lighting it
> always chooses daylight.  I have set the feature
> from EV to WB just to
> overcome this.  It does correctly choose fluorescent
> light though.  Anyone
> else have this problem, or did I get a bad sample.
> 
> Chris
> 
> 


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OptioS & Win2003

[Ramesh Kumar]

I was trying to connect OptiosS to my PC and came to
know that OptioS does not have USB drivers for
Win2003.
Driver install program ends with a message indicating
incompatible OS.

Anybody got OptioS working with Win2003?

Thanks
Ramesh





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bad experience with Kodak lab

[Ramesh Kumar]

Hi 
I had bad experience with Kodak. I got back 3 (2
slides + 1 print) rolls processed from Kodak. My local
camera shop uses Kodak lab for developing; slides are
marked as developed by Kodak.

Slide film
One roll of slide had horiztoal scratch on each film.
Scratch ran parallel to longer edge. There is no
scratch on the initial 3 black films of the roll,
which get exposed during loading. Scratch seems to
have the color of the background scene.
*Could this scratch have happened before exposure or
before exposure?
*Could it have caused inside the camera?
*At processing stage?
This is the first time it happened to me. I had shot
another roll of slide and that is fine.

Print film
This seems to be severly damaged. There are holes. 
Film is diogonally folded as if a large weight was
kept on it. Along these folds color is green.
Film was delivered without cutting it and was rolled
and kept in film cassette.

*Does the green color could be due water seeping in to
camera? I shot few shots in slight drizzle.  
*Is it possible, film was damaged before loading to
camera?
*At processing stage?

I use ZX-5n

Thanks
Ramesh


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Re: Which macro lens would you buy

[Ramesh Kumar]

I was referring to f2.8 verions.

--- Ramesh Kumar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I started with Pentax FA 50mm macro and then added
> Pentax FA 100mm macro. 
> My suggestion is you can start directly with 100mm
> macro and for most of the people 100mm may be
> enought
> for macro work. You may not need 200mm macro.
> 
> Coming brand I think Pentax or Sigma.
> No need to tell; Pentax is really good but may be
> expensive.
> 
> Thanks
> Ramesh
> 
>   
> --- Tony Cogan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Hi
> > I want to quit using close-up filters and start
> > using a macro lens for 
> > flowers, insects, etc.  Which lens would be a good
> > place to start?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Tony
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
> SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
> http://sbc.yahoo.com
> 


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Re: Which macro lens would you buy

[Ramesh Kumar]

I started with Pentax FA 50mm macro and then added
Pentax FA 100mm macro. 
My suggestion is you can start directly with 100mm
macro and for most of the people 100mm may be enought
for macro work. You may not need 200mm macro.

Coming brand I think Pentax or Sigma.
No need to tell; Pentax is really good but may be
expensive.

Thanks
Ramesh

  
--- Tony Cogan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hi
> I want to quit using close-up filters and start
> using a macro lens for 
> flowers, insects, etc.  Which lens would be a good
> place to start?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tony
> 
> 


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Re: Tripod question

[Ramesh Kumar]

Pal wrote:
> Light ballheads are sturdier than light pan/tilt
> heads simply because theres more material going into
> a pan/tilt head. 
Thanks for technical explanation.
Thanks for everybody for responding.

Regards
Ramesh




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Re: Tripod question

[Ramesh Kumar]

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>  Every serious professional photographer that I have
> ever read about uses a 
> ball head
That is what made me think about ballhead.

Thanks
Rameh

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Re: Tripod question

[Ramesh Kumar]

Moastly, I do outdoor nature photography.
My biggest lens is Tamrom 300mm /2.8. 
At present I use slik 700dxpro with pan-tilt.
Theoritically, moving sems to be easier in case of
ball head. I may stick to SLIK tripods. Max I could
spend on ballhead is 150usd.

Can I mix the brands? (say slik legs & some xyz ball
head).

Thanks
Ramesh



--- Christian Skofteland <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> - Original Message -----
> From: "Ramesh Kumar" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 
> > Hi,
> > I am planning replace my existing tripd with
> corbon
> > fibre tripod, so was thinking about the ball
> heads.
> > I have few doubts about them.
> >
> > Are there any advantages in using ballhead instead
> of
> > pan-tilt style ones?
> > Which is more stable?
> >
> 
> It's really a matter of preference.  I use a
> ballhead becasue it is quicker
> for me to use in the field.  Many people prefer the
> pan-tilt because it
> gives them the opportunity to change one axis at a
> time.
> 
> Which is more stable?  It's a case of size (and
> build-quality) matters.  I
> use a giant Graf StudioBall which is rock solid for
> my lenses (300/4 is my
> largest lens).  Some ballheads are very cheap and
> flimsy as are some
> pan/tilt heads.
> 
> It's really up to your type of photography
> 
> Christian
> 


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Tripod question

[Ramesh Kumar]

Hi,
I am planning replace my existing tripd with corbon
fibre tripod, so was thinking about the ball heads. 
I have few doubts about them.

Are there any advantages in using ballhead instead of
pan-tilt style ones?
Which is more stable?



Thanks
Ramesh

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