[RBW] Re: FS: Rod Steward Pec Deck V2 from Ron $60 shipped

[Adam Moss]

Very interested if still available. I tried sending a direct message but 
wasn’t sure if it went through. 

Thanks!
Adam in Berkeley, CA

On Sunday, May 5, 2024 at 12:40:39 PM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:

> I have a new Rod Steward bag support for the Small and Large Fabio's chest 
> bag. For the most part it is new. I mocked it up for size and decided not 
> to use it. It has slight shop wear from mounting the cross bar to the 
> uprights but otherwise new. The u-shape supports are uncut. 
>
> Here is a link to the item at Ron's Bikes
>
> https://ronsbikes.com/products/rod-steward-pec-dec-v2
>
> How about $60 shipped to the lower 48. 
>
> [image: DSCF2467.JPG]
>

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[RBW] Re: Blue Lug Build Catalog

[Adam Moss]

Thanks so much for sharing this. Never seen it before but truly inspiring 
and drool worthy. 

Adam in Berkeley

On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 7:27:09 AM UTC-7 Drew Fitchette wrote:

> Many of you may already be aware of this, but Blue Lug has a nice catalog 
> of all it's Riv Builds for customers. In the even you want some inspiration 
> for your next build, or just want to see some different takes on each 
> frame, have a look:
>
> https://bluelug.com/bike-catalog/model/rivendell-bicycle-works/
>
> If you click the dropdown in the top right corner and scroll down to the 
> Riv section you can even filter for specific models. Been super helpful as 
> I accrue the things needed for my upcoming 56cm 2TT Sam I scored from Abe 
> on here.
>
> Hopefully helpful for folks looking to build out that next frame or 
> rebuild your old favorite!
>
> - Drew
>
>

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[RBW] Re: hoppin on on the brevet wagon - Chicago Randonneurs Barrington 200k

[Adam]

Thanks for the write-up. I'm excited for all the Chirando stuff on the 
schedule. Haven't made it out there yet but am eyeing the calendar.

Adam in Oak Park
(I think we may have met briefly in Riverside or around there sometime in 
January? I was riding my Hillborne)

On Sunday, April 28, 2024 at 1:42:54 PM UTC-5 Brent Knepper wrote:

> hey friends, from seeing folks sharing east coast and west coast brevet 
> ride reports in the rbw/ibob/650b ecosystem, I'd like to share yesterday's 
> ride as the Chicago area finally has a rando organization!
>
> yesterday's 200k ride was an out n back from Barrington, IL to Darien, WI- 
> the ultimate destination being one of many locations known as Wisconsin's 
> Official State Cultural Centers: a Kwik Trip 
> <https://www.wisconsinrapidstribune.com/in-depth/money/2022/02/28/kwik-trip-why-midwesterners-obsessed-convenience-store/9203965002/>
>  
> gas station
>
> I was on my crust malocchio with 38s, flat pedals, and a berthoud saddle 
> I'm struggling to break in. it fits me really well and I'm also so comfy on 
> this bike for hella long rides
>
> this is the new chirando's 4th event of the season 
> <https://www.chicagorando.org/ride-registration/p/barrington-boomerang-200km-2024>
>  and 
> while my other riding friends have said the earlier events have had 
> tremendous turn outs, yesterday's Barrington event had an impressive 14 
> people I think? it's impressive for two reasons:
> 1. doin century rides all over the Chicago area and I maybe get 1000ft of 
> elevation for the whole deal, its flat here. the Barrington brevet is ~4400 
> ft total, so this may be a bit intimidating for riders who have no 
> opportunities to practice climbing
> 2. the lead, buried in this third paragraph, but-- the forecast had 
> *strong* winds all day, incl. 40mph gusts and in the worst possible 
> direction. midwestern riders are familiar with constant wind, it's kinda 
> like climbing but you never get to descend :-/ the friends I was planning 
> to ride who are resilient riders bailed solely because of the wind
>
> and with that, 14 or so silly people met up at one gas station to ride to 
> another gas station with a few gas stations as controls. that's the midwest 
> for ya baby! overnight rain kept the roads wet for the ride start and get 
> just enough grit on everyone's chains but the wind (gonna mention wind a 
> lot so settle in) and sun dried out the roads and humidified the air in the 
> first hour. groups formed based on pace and familiarity. I didn't know 
> anyone so I bopped around between groups at first, sayin hi, but settled in 
> with some kind and conversational grav dads who were interested in keeping 
> the pace fast n fun
>
> I wore a shirt with ducks on it, running shorts, and chacos. first 30ish 
> miles we kept it in the low 20s through the rolling hills and out into the 
> flat farmland. I had assumed based off wind direction there'd be a slight 
> tailwind most of the way north, and I wanted to conserve my energy for the 
> second half where I feared it would be 60 miles of pushing into a gnarly 
> headwind. well the tailwinds mostly never found us, instead the first half 
> was more core strength focused in leaning against the crosswinds
>
> there was exactly one point where the glory of a full blast midwestern 
> tail wind came, along Queen Anne Rd heading north Hebron, IL. 15 or so 
> miles of just effortless 28-29mph pedaling as we got closer and closer to The 
> Basketball <https://villageofhebron.org/water-tower-2019>
>
> alas dear reader, that municipal basketball was also the harbinger of 
> changing wind. I'm not from the midwest and I get super demoralized by 
> headwinds. they're so boring to ride against. I tapered down and fell away 
> from the fast folks, fearful that I needed to save my energy for the 
> remaining 70 miles. two seasoned rando riders with various kit/bike swag 
> from big rides including PBP caught up to me for a while, and once we were 
> at the Kwik Trip mecca other groups reconvened. KT being kinda like a 
> buc-ees or sheetz, we were able to eat real food and get better drinks. 
> gallon jugs of water were collectively bought and shared. a few people made 
> a couple rounds at the free sample table inside giving away pizza slices. 
> it's the best part of long rides- just eating pure garbage in a desperate 
> quest for salt and calories with elation instead of guilt
>
> just as I was rolling out and another group was rolling in, I realized my 
> rear tube had a slow leak, so I bid farewell to my morning new friends to 
> throw a new tube in and joined this later group of riders. it's something I 
> like about rando rides: if you'd like company, there's company to be found. 
> leave dropping

Re: [RBW] Rivendell Roadbike Curious

[Adam Moss]

Another plus one for the Crust Lighting bolt. I’ve had a riv road, original 
Hillborne, Cheviot, and finally a Hunqapllar which is hopefully my forever 
bike. I recently picked up a Canti Lighting Bolt and it’s a lovely 
complement to my Hunq which is setup as an ATB. The LB is quick and 
responsive feeling and rides great with somewhat upright drops. It rides 
like a cousin to my riv. 

W

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[RBW] Re: Hobson-Zingo tools tried and liked?

[Adam Moss]

Their floor pump is awesome!

Best,
Adam 

On Thursday, March 14, 2024 at 9:12:56 PM UTC-7 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> Looking for recommendations for any HZ tools that you have tried and would 
> recommend...
>
> Thank you
> peter
>

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Re: [RBW] Stainless bottle/ cage recommendation

[Adam Moss]

+1 for king cages and I’ve recently discovered Bivo water bottles. They’re 
excellent and silent. 

On Sunday, February 25, 2024 at 8:33:57 PM UTC-8 John Dewey wrote:

> + 1 Iris. Simple, indestructible, elegant shape,
>
> Jock
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 8:07 PM John Rinker  wrote:
>
>> I've enjoyed the Iris King cages 
>> .
>>  
>> Very secure and quite elegant looking.
>> [image: Screen Shot 2024-02-25 at 8.06.35 PM.png]
>> Cheers, John
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, February 25, 2024 at 7:52:55 PM UTC-8 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>>
>>> These have worked well for me. Adjustable fit to keep the bottle firmly 
>>> in place.
>>>
>>> [image: cfff0946e78b4f4406f14619c8cbfea9.jpeg]
>>>
>>> Mojave Water Bottle Cage 
>>> 
>>> velo-orange.com 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>  
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy 
>>>
>>> On Feb 25, 2024, at 7:03 PM, Bernard Duhon  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Mates, 
>>>  
>>> I would like to migrate to a stainless water bottle.  Most folks with em 
>>> I noticed a rattle I could not tolerate.
>>>  
>>> Recommendation for a rattle free stainless bottle & cage ( of any 
>>> composition)  
>>>  
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/SA1PR17MB54911DBFC552D6C666AC6B07CD5A2%40SA1PR17MB5491.namprd17.prod.outlook.com
>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne Pictures Thread

[Adam]

Enjoying this thread.

Curious about the conti race kings. Those are 2.0s and they fit? Or am I 
missing something?

I've used Cazadero 50s and they cleared, but I didn't like them enough and 
missed fenders. I'm always curious about other tires in that range though.

I'll put a pic up eventually, but mine has RH hurricane ridge/Snoqualmie 
pass, VO zeppelin fenders and the widest towel racks. I'm enjoying that 
combo. I just added a nitto 34f and am not minding it, but haven't tried 
really loading it down yet.

Adam


On Saturday, February 24, 2024 at 10:57:18 AM UTC-6 Marc Irwin wrote:

> [image: Blued Sam.jpg]
> Here's mine, many miles on this dude.  2X9 drive, Bosco Bars and C19 
> saddle.
>
> Marc
> On Wednesday, February 14, 2024 at 1:35:39 PM UTC-5 Paul in Dallas wrote:
>
>> After seeing various Sam owners pictures here and there on various 
>> threads I thought I would start a thread dedicated to the versatile Sam's.
>>
>> Perhaps such a thread already exists?
>>
>> No worries if it does and perhaps someone could post a link if there is 
>> one out there.
>>
>> Here is my Sam with upright bars.
>>
>> I'm an older Riv owner , almost 74 and still love riding and working on 
>> bikes.
>>
>> I managed just over 2700 miles in 2023 ( not all on the Sam)
>>  and hope to top that in 2024 the Good Lord willing.
>>
>> My bars are the  Sunlite North Road alloy version.
>> ( They also have a steel version)
>> I like these North Roads so much I have them on multiple bikes 
>>
>> I have a very tall stem column , (forget the brand)
>> and a thread less stem, Origin8 I think.
>> I need the bars way up for the old back.
>> It works well for me and I've done up to 73 miles on it set up this way.
>>
>> I have a triple crank (need the granny to get up hills).
>>  I'm using the more 
>> modern Dia Compe thumb shifters, 
>> Shimano derailers, 
>> Tektro 559 brake calipers, 
>> Velocity Dyad rims / Deore hubs wheelset and Soma Supple Vitesse EX tires 
>> in a 700x42.
>>
>> I do recommend these tires as they are supple, seem to roll fast and 
>> smooth and are relatively light for a tire this size at 380g's. No flats in 
>> guessing 600 or so miles.
>>
>> The tan saddle is an Origin8 Comfort in about the same width as a B17. 
>> It works well for me. I like the look and it's only about $40.
>>
>> I like working on bikes and built my Sam up myself.
>>
>> Safe riding to all.
>>
>> Paul in Dallas, TX area
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Crankset/BB question

[Adam]

Thanks for all of the tips.

I appreciate the acknowledgement of the STAND. I do not have one and 
there's no chance of finding room for one in my apt. Someday that will 
change . . .

I'm not sure what a crank bolt washer looks like? Maybe I'll know when I 
see it. I'm assuming it would be under the initial bolt--revealed when I 
remove that? And I gather that I should be aware that the small ring may 
hit the chainstays as I'm putting on the new crank? Good to know.

It will be a bit before I get the cranks and have time to work, but I'll 
post back here with the result. Maybe useful for anyone with a Sam that 
wants to try a 115mm bb with VO cranks.

Adam

On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 5:00:46 PM UTC-6 Jingy wrote:

> Also, if you do end up removing the BB, the drive side is 
> reverse-threaded, so lefty-tighty, righty-loosey.
> Jim in Mpls
>
> On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 4:40:51 PM UTC-6 Drurad (Sacramento) wrote:
>
>> I second the disclaimer to check for washer prior to using crank puller.  
>>
>> -Andrew
>>
>> On Fri, Feb 16, 2024 at 2:32 PM Shoji Takahashi  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Also, check to make sure there's no crank bolt washer before you put on 
>>> the crank puller!
>>>
>>> good luck,
>>> shoji
>>> Arlington MA
>>>
>>> On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 3:48:29 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> I enumerated a list of tools, omitting the most critical one.  
>>>>
>>>> Learning any mechanical manuever is a LOT easier with the bike held in 
>>>> a proper mechanic's work stand.  Every single is a LOT harder doing it on 
>>>> the ground or with the bike upside down.  The work stand is the barrier.  
>>>> There is not a mechanic on earth who would prefer working on a bike 
>>>> without 
>>>> a work stand.  It's possible to get it done, but it's always harder.  
>>>>
>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 10:52:24 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Generally speaking, anybody who wants to do new mechanical maneuvers, 
>>>>> and has the will to purchase the right tools, by all means go for it.  
>>>>>
>>>>> To swap out your crank set without swapping the BB, what you need are:
>>>>>
>>>>> -pedal wrench
>>>>> -whatever wrench you need for your crank bolts: Long 8mm allen, 14mm 
>>>>> socket, maybe both
>>>>> -crank puller, and maybe an adjustable wrench to drive your crank 
>>>>> puller
>>>>>
>>>>> Assuming you have all the above, absolutely pull your crank off and 
>>>>> test fit the VO.  To measure the length of the existing BB a cheap 
>>>>> caliper 
>>>>> would be useful.  If your existing BB is "too short" your small ring will 
>>>>> hit the frame and if you crank down the crank bolt AFTER you've already 
>>>>> crashed your ring into the chain stay, then you'll do real damage.  Aside 
>>>>> from that, any clearance is enough clearance, but crazy close, like 1mm 
>>>>> would be a concern for many.  3mm is ample.  
>>>>>
>>>>> Once you have clearance, it's up to you to worry about chain line.  In 
>>>>> some narrow Q applications the front derailleur throw can be an issue.  
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>>
>>>>> On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 10:07:21 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> A while back I posted about low q, low-range cranks for my Hillborne.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I just ordered one of the VO 46/30s, which seems like a good option 
>>>>>> at the price. I'll use the stock rings first, then tweak them down the 
>>>>>> road.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> A few questions - I'm going to try the install myself--I think--and 
>>>>>> this is my first attempt.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I understand that the VO 46/30 is supposed to be paired with a 118mm 
>>>>>> BB. I have read on here of folks using shorter spindles. I currently 
>>>>>> have 
>>>>>> either a 113 or 115mm on the Hillborne. I'm assuming the only way to 
>>>>>> know 
>>>>>> is to remove the cranks and measure? Has anyone here tried a shorter 
>>&g

[RBW] Re: Crankset/BB question

[Adam]

Thanks all,

Great. I have the tools, just ordered the park crankpuller from VO with the 
cranks.

I'll give it a go and see what happens. I think I get the idea from the 
videos.

I don't have the cranks in hand yet, but once I sort it out, I'll post 
back, probably with questions about FDs and chainline. Since I haven't 
shifted my FD since moving to Chicago. . . I could also pull it altogether 
for a bit. I really miss climbing, but realistically that's a significant 
train or drive from anywhere I regularly ride, so manual front shifting is 
not a bad option for that rare occasion.

Best,

Adam

On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 1:15:59 PM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Emphasizing one point Bill mentioned, slide the driveside crank on the 
> spindle SLOWLY and stop before you think a ring may hit the frame. Ask me 
> how I learned this! 
>
> Joe Bernard 
>
> On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 10:52:24 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Generally speaking, anybody who wants to do new mechanical maneuvers, and 
>> has the will to purchase the right tools, by all means go for it.  
>>
>> To swap out your crank set without swapping the BB, what you need are:
>>
>> -pedal wrench
>> -whatever wrench you need for your crank bolts: Long 8mm allen, 14mm 
>> socket, maybe both
>> -crank puller, and maybe an adjustable wrench to drive your crank puller
>>
>> Assuming you have all the above, absolutely pull your crank off and test 
>> fit the VO.  To measure the length of the existing BB a cheap caliper would 
>> be useful.  If your existing BB is "too short" your small ring will hit the 
>> frame and if you crank down the crank bolt AFTER you've already crashed 
>> your ring into the chain stay, then you'll do real damage.  Aside from 
>> that, any clearance is enough clearance, but crazy close, like 1mm would be 
>> a concern for many.  3mm is ample.  
>>
>> Once you have clearance, it's up to you to worry about chain line.  In 
>> some narrow Q applications the front derailleur throw can be an issue.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Friday, February 16, 2024 at 10:07:21 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> A while back I posted about low q, low-range cranks for my Hillborne.
>>>
>>> I just ordered one of the VO 46/30s, which seems like a good option at 
>>> the price. I'll use the stock rings first, then tweak them down the road.
>>>
>>> A few questions - I'm going to try the install myself--I think--and this 
>>> is my first attempt.
>>>
>>> I understand that the VO 46/30 is supposed to be paired with a 118mm BB. 
>>> I have read on here of folks using shorter spindles. I currently have 
>>> either a 113 or 115mm on the Hillborne. I'm assuming the only way to know 
>>> is to remove the cranks and measure? Has anyone here tried a shorter 
>>> spindle on their Hillborne with the VO cranks?
>>>
>>> My question - Should I try simply swapping cranks and see how the VO 
>>> cranks do at 115/113mm? If so, what would I be watching for to suggest a 
>>> problem? OR is this a dumb way to start tinkering with cranks? And if so, 
>>> any thoughts on swapping BB vs taking it a shop? (I have great shops 
>>> nearby, but like to gradually learn a few things every so often.)
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Crankset/BB question

[Adam]

Hi all,

A while back I posted about low q, low-range cranks for my Hillborne.

I just ordered one of the VO 46/30s, which seems like a good option at the 
price. I'll use the stock rings first, then tweak them down the road.

A few questions - I'm going to try the install myself--I think--and this is 
my first attempt.

I understand that the VO 46/30 is supposed to be paired with a 118mm BB. I 
have read on here of folks using shorter spindles. I currently have either 
a 113 or 115mm on the Hillborne. I'm assuming the only way to know is to 
remove the cranks and measure? Has anyone here tried a shorter spindle on 
their Hillborne with the VO cranks?

My question - Should I try simply swapping cranks and see how the VO cranks 
do at 115/113mm? If so, what would I be watching for to suggest a problem? 
OR is this a dumb way to start tinkering with cranks? And if so, any 
thoughts on swapping BB vs taking it a shop? (I have great shops nearby, 
but like to gradually learn a few things every so often.)

Thanks!

Adam

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[RBW] Re: Low q, low range 2x cranks

[Adam]

Thanks for all the help everyone!

I definitely appreciate the V.O. cranks more now that I've seen the 
alternatives. I am still mulling it all over, but it seems like buying 
those and swapping the rings may be the thing for me.

FWIW, I've come to prefer more compact cassettes for the FLAT riding around 
Chicago. I replaced a 11-32 with a 12-27 and much prefer the new setup, 
mostly because wind is so constant. Realistically, I'll never use the 
smaller chainring here, but want it for potential travel.

Thanks!

Adam

On Sunday, January 14, 2024 at 11:58:45 AM UTC-6 John Hawrylak, Woodstown 
NJ wrote:

> On 10 Jan Adam asked:   "  I'm thinking about moving away from a triple to 
> a double in order to get a lower Q." 
>
> One option is a 1980's Sugino AT (110/74mm BCD) set for a double, say 
> 46-33, sicne 33T is the smallest 110mm BCD ring out there,  e.g. TA Zephyr 
> on Peter White's site.  The AT was designed as a low Q triple.
> *  I have achieved 152mm Q with a Tange 127 cartridge BB and 2mm drive 
> side spacer for a total asymmetry of 6mm, very close to the D-3U Sugino 
> recommended.  The Outer ring FCL is 45mm and the Inner ring FCL is 37mm 
> with a 43.5mm RCL.
> *  Others on the I-Bob list have stated 147mm Q. 
>
> The AT Inner 74mm BCD ring uses very very low posts cast in the spider & 
> 5mm spacers instead of higher cast posts using no spacer.  The Middle 110mm 
> DCB ring protrudes further inward than the 74mm holes.  Therefore, removing 
> the 74mm Inner ring and spacers creates a double with the Inner ring 
> chainbolt head being the limiting clearance to the chainstay.
>
> The double has a Q of about 145mm with a 46-36.The only problem with a 
> 110mm double is the smallest 110BCD ring in 33T.   However, with a 12-36 9 
> speed cassette, a 46-33 is 1 gear higher than a 46-30 for a No Load low 
> gear (24.1gi vs 20.4gi with 584x38).  
>
> EBay seems to have a decent supply of AT's, I bought 2 a year ago, a 1980 
> and 1984 one.
>
> So unless you need the very lowest No Load low, a Sugino AT as a double 
> may work. 
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 11:15:06 AM UTC-5 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Adjacent to the triples thread, I'm thinking about moving away from a 
>> triple to a double in order to get a lower Q.
>>
>> What are options for double cranksets that are around 40/26 or so? I 
>> think that would be doable with the Rene Herse cranks, but too much $$$ for 
>> me. Are there any cheaper options that will do that and give me a q in the 
>> 140s?
>>
>> Second, drivetrain stuff is a little new to me. What determines how small 
>> a q factor a specific bike can have? I'm assuming chainstays play a role 
>> here? This hypothetical project is for a Hillborne, so I'd be curious what 
>> folks have used to get low q on their Hillbornes. I'm assuming I may have 
>> to change the BB as well.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Low q, low range 2x cranks

[Adam]

I tapped the right place for info!

The nerd crank database is EXACTLY what I was looking for. And Bill, 
Justus, thanks for clarifying the chainline stuff. I think I get it, though 
I'm not sure if I understand what BB will get a specific chainline, I'll 
ask that question once I get farther along figuring this out.

I do intend to run it as a 1X + granny. Realistically, where I live, the 
chances of using the granny are non-existent, but I love climbing and on 
the rare occasions I travel to bike, want the option.

As far as WHY I'm interested in changing, I have an IRD defiant 46/30 on 
another bike and I'm finding that I MUCH prefer that feel to the wider 
stance on the Hillborne. I don't know for sure the exact measurements, but 
I think the IRD is around 150 and the current triple I have on the 
Hillborne is 160+

thanks for the info. I'm going to poke around that database later.

Adam

On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 1:13:19 PM UTC-6 Bill Schairer wrote:

> "That's like asking why someone wants a longer/shorter stem..."
>
> Which could be a perfectly valid question to someone who has stated he has 
> limited knowledge of such things.  The reason for the goal may determine 
> the method of achieving it.  If the person I actually asked the question of 
> takes offense, I apologize.
>
> Bill S
> San Diego
> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:09:37 AM UTC-8 Josiah Anderson wrote:
>
>> Uhh... because lower Q works better for some people? That's like asking 
>> why someone wants a longer/shorter stem...
>>
>> Adam, with the VO cranks (if we're thinking of the same ones) if you can 
>> get a set of arms without rings, TA rings will fit, which are available in 
>> any tooth count down to 26 IIRC. 40/26 is definitely possible with the TA 
>> 50.4bcd rings. You could also watch eBay etc for used TA cyclotouriste/pro 
>> 5 vis cranks, which is what the VO and SunXCD cranks are copies of.
>>
>> Josiah Anderson 
>> Missoula MT 
>>
>>
>> Le mer. 10 janv. 2024 à 9:47 AM, Bill Schairer  a 
>> écrit :
>>
>>> Since you stated you are a bit new to all of this, I am curious as to 
>>> exactly why you are so focused on a lower Q?
>>>
>>> Bill S
>>> San Diego
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 9:26:06 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Great ideas already. I have thought about the VO cranks, but want 
>>>> slightly lower gearing if I'm going to the trouble of swapping.
>>>>
>>>> For Ron, or anyone else, does swapping the large ring for a bash guard 
>>>> allow for a lower Q? I assumed that would stay the same?
>>>>
>>>> I'm going to look at the Alex cycle option, your pic is exactly what I 
>>>> want to do. Is there a clever way to piece something like that together 
>>>> from older stuff on eBay? Guessing it may take knowledge I don't have 
>>>>
>>>> Adam
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 11:15:31 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> adding a ps - another use of your triple crank, there are some 
>>>>> virtually weightless bash guards out there if you want to make it a 
>>>>> compact 
>>>>> double.  
>>>>>
>>>>> [image: Rw6vTY9.jpg]
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:44:54 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Adam, 
>>>>>> take a look at VO Rando crank.  
>>>>>> If you can find them, Sun XCD makes their 50.8 BCD and chainrings, 
>>>>>> which I'm running on 2 bikes.  .  
>>>>>> I was on SJS Cycles last night looking at rings, and noticed they 
>>>>>> still have some T/A-5 chainrings.  
>>>>>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:15:06 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Adjacent to the triples thread, I'm thinking about moving away from 
>>>>>>> a triple to a double in order to get a lower Q.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> What are options for double cranksets that are around 40/26 or so? I 
>>>>>>> think that would be doable with the Rene Herse cranks, but too much $$$ 
>>>>>>> for 
>>>>>>> me. Are there any cheaper options that will do that and give me a q in 
>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>> 140s?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Second, drivetrain

[RBW] Re: Low q, low range 2x cranks

[Adam]

Thanks,

Great ideas already. I have thought about the VO cranks, but want slightly 
lower gearing if I'm going to the trouble of swapping.

For Ron, or anyone else, does swapping the large ring for a bash guard 
allow for a lower Q? I assumed that would stay the same?

I'm going to look at the Alex cycle option, your pic is exactly what I want 
to do. Is there a clever way to piece something like that together from 
older stuff on eBay? Guessing it may take knowledge I don't have 

Adam

On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 11:15:31 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:

> adding a ps - another use of your triple crank, there are some virtually 
> weightless bash guards out there if you want to make it a compact double.  
>
> [image: Rw6vTY9.jpg]
>
> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:44:54 AM UTC-6 Ron Mc wrote:
>
>> Hi Adam, 
>> take a look at VO Rando crank.  
>> If you can find them, Sun XCD makes their 50.8 BCD and chainrings, which 
>> I'm running on 2 bikes.  .  
>> I was on SJS Cycles last night looking at rings, and noticed they still 
>> have some T/A-5 chainrings.  
>> On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 10:15:06 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Adjacent to the triples thread, I'm thinking about moving away from a 
>>> triple to a double in order to get a lower Q.
>>>
>>> What are options for double cranksets that are around 40/26 or so? I 
>>> think that would be doable with the Rene Herse cranks, but too much $$$ for 
>>> me. Are there any cheaper options that will do that and give me a q in the 
>>> 140s?
>>>
>>> Second, drivetrain stuff is a little new to me. What determines how 
>>> small a q factor a specific bike can have? I'm assuming chainstays play a 
>>> role here? This hypothetical project is for a Hillborne, so I'd be curious 
>>> what folks have used to get low q on their Hillbornes. I'm assuming I may 
>>> have to change the BB as well.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Low q, low range 2x cranks

[Adam]

Hi all,

Adjacent to the triples thread, I'm thinking about moving away from a 
triple to a double in order to get a lower Q.

What are options for double cranksets that are around 40/26 or so? I think 
that would be doable with the Rene Herse cranks, but too much $$$ for me. 
Are there any cheaper options that will do that and give me a q in the 140s?

Second, drivetrain stuff is a little new to me. What determines how small a 
q factor a specific bike can have? I'm assuming chainstays play a role 
here? This hypothetical project is for a Hillborne, so I'd be curious what 
folks have used to get low q on their Hillbornes. I'm assuming I may have 
to change the BB as well.

Thanks!

Adam

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[RBW] Re: FS- budget 650b wheelset

[Adam Moss]

Thanks for the bump Joe. From what I can measure I'm pretty certain they're 
actually 135. 

Open to any and all reasonable offers for a localish buyer. Thanks!

On Saturday, December 16, 2023 at 10:26:05 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Did you get a read on the rear spacing? 
>
> Joe Bernard
> Clearlake CA 
>
> On Friday, December 15, 2023 at 12:28:09 PM UTC-8 ocea...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS- budget 650b wheelset

[Adam Moss]

Thanks Bill, I had a feeling you might be the one to clarify as I'm a 
frequent reader and infrequent poster :)

A few folks have emailed me already. I'll post some photos later on and I'm 
not too excited about the idea of trying to ship these. Thanks!

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[RBW] FS- budget 650b wheelset

[Adam Moss]

Hi all,

I have a set of 650b wheels gathering dust in my bike shed and want to pass 
them on. They came off a Cheviot I purchased, upgraded, and eventually sold.

Shimano 105 hubs, VO rims. They have some unbranded tires and tubes on and 
seem to be in great shape and spin true. Maybe someone more well versed 
than me can help with the spacing they would be coming a Cheviot frame?

I'm not sure what a fair price would be but I was thinking in the ballpark 
of $200. Great wheel set for a commuter or someone on a budget. Please feel 
free to make an offer.

Thanks,
Adam in Berkeley

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Re: [RBW] Re: Problem solvers front cable hanger?

[Adam]

Thanks for the thoughts all.

And Garth, thanks for that picture. Now I see how it could make sense. 
Unfortunately, my bars are high drops, so the angle ends up creating a 
weird double bend that requires me to overshoot the hanger and loop back 
into it from the opposite side--I know a pic would help here, but this site 
makes it too difficult to upload.

Is there any reason NOT to go with the quill mounted Tektro? The Paul one 
is also quill-mounted, right?

I may not change this now, but it's annoying me and I'm moving other stuff 
around, so maybe doing it all now makes sense.

thanks

Adam



On Friday, November 17, 2023 at 12:11:03 PM UTC-6 JohnS wrote:

> This is timely, the Shove Research FMBCH...
>
> https://shovelresearch.com/fork-mounted-brake-cable-hanger
>
> Bling for the bike, about the same cost as the RH.
>
> Back to Adam's point that fork mounted hangers won't work with center pull 
> brakes, seems to me someone should make an integrated backing plate/hanger. 
> That would nice!
>
> JohnS
>
>
> On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 5:16:32 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> One factor in reducing front brake cable friction is a gradual, "natural" 
>> bend in the housing between its exit from the bar tape (aero levers, of 
>> course) and where it meets the stop. If your stem is high so that the 
>> housing leaves the bar tape (I'm assuming you use aero levers) far above 
>> the housing stop then I expect that a hanger with the angled noodle can 
>> actually make the bend tighter and less efficient for cable travel.
>>
>> Because my errand road bike (2020 Matthews custom) has a high stack -- 
>> upsloping tt and extended steerer and head -- the stem and therefore the 
>> bar is positioned relatively low above the headset. When I built the bike I 
>> installed a very nice, stiff, steel Shimano hanger but it has only about 1 
>> cm of drop. Together with the close bar the housing has to bend tightly 
>> when it exits the tape to meet the hanger. In this case, the angled noodle 
>> on the PS hanger would allow a more gradual bend.
>>
>> I recently bought a Rene Herse cable housing hanger, paying $59 because 
>> no one else offers a stiff, silver, steerer-mount housing hanger with a 
>> deep drop. While the Shimano hanger drops 1 cm, the RH drops fully 3.5 cm 
>> and will allow a much more "natural" bend.
>>
>> I have to confess that the tight bend with the short Shimano hanger 
>> hasn't caused a great deal of cable friction, but there's room for 
>> improvement, and since this is a "nice" bike I want to reduce it to the 
>> minimum possible. The longer RH hanger will do that. It also makes the 
>> housing bend look nicer.
>>
>> Tektro offers a deep-drop hanger for about $13 but that one is quill 
>> mounted so that you lose a cm of drop because it is clamped above headset 
>> locknut and a thin spacer. Of course, the PS hanger not only clamps to the 
>> quill but it's about a cm shorter than the Tektro and RH hangers.
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 10:05:03 PM UTC-5 Adam wrote:
>> > Hi all,
>>
>> > Does anyone have experience with the problem solvers front cable 
>> hanger? The one with a built-in "cable noodle"?
>>
>> > I had an LBS install Paul racers on my hillborne and they used one of 
>> these. Changing the brake cables this week, I realized what an odd setup 
>> the cable noodle thing is, it puts a 45ish degree bend in the cable for no 
>> real reason. I'm > thinking that I should change the setup, any 
>> recommendations? Or is this not an issue?
>>
>> > When I changed the cable, the little plastic sleeve inside the cable 
>> noodle was cracked. Seems like a potential issue for no real purpose that I 
>> can see. Unfortunately there isn't an actual cable stop built into the 
>> hanger, so I think the > whole setup may need to be changed.
>>
>> > Thoughts, advice?
>>
>> > Here's the part:
>>
>> > 
>> https://www.thebikerschoice.com/product/problem-solvers-clamp-on-cable-hanger-182078-1.htm?variations=926322,926354?utm_source=google%20shopping_medium=organic_id=18999470602_id===m=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTCxJ5qK9TD6hipo0RYCdZIeE5F_M3FbHVnzmIbVVSUoKWshTJSoWaCRoCHJMQAvD_BwE
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Problem solvers front cable hanger?

[Adam]

Thanks,

If anyone has recommendations on cable hangers, I'm interested. Is it worth 
the trouble to swap out for one of the Paul, Tektro, or RH options? I'm 
mostly just concerned that this weird bend will cause the cable to break at 
some point, and that the bend is taking away braking function via all the 
friction.

I like the idea of a fork mounted stop, but don't see how that could work 
with centerpulls--the brake cable is too high and the mounting hole already 
in use--am I missing something?

On Thursday, November 16, 2023 at 6:12:37 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:

> I use one of those Adam and no, they aren't a great design with the sharp 
> bend and all. The plastic brake cable liner isn't necessary, I removed it 
> and just ran the cable as there was less friction that way on my Bombadil. 
>
> I tried running the brake cable direct to it without the noodle, but there 
> was too much play, the hole in the cable stop is too big. You'd need a step 
> down ferrule to even see "if" it would work.  There are flexible noodles 
> available, but those would also need a step down ferrule to even see "if" 
> it would work. 
>
> Nah, too much malarkey for me. Oh the irony of the "Problem Solvers" 
> brand. I haven't ridden the Bombadil since Spring and when I get around to 
> changing to drop bars I'll be using the Tektro 1277A fork mounted cable 
> stop instead. I use one of those on another bike and they're the bees 
> knees. The brake cable goes to it directly like a caliper brake and has an 
> adjuster which also work as a cable release with a few turns. Plus you can 
> angle it slightly off center/vertical if need be and that has no effect on 
> the efficacy of pull to the brakes. Brakes feel firmer than the high drop 
> headset/stem versions. 
>
> On Wednesday, November 15, 2023 at 10:05:03 PM UTC-5 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Does anyone have experience with the problem solvers front cable hanger? 
>> The one with a built-in "cable noodle"?
>>
>> I had an LBS install Paul racers on my hillborne and they used one of 
>> these. Changing the brake cables this week, I realized what an odd setup 
>> the cable noodle thing is, it puts a 45ish degree bend in the cable for no 
>> real reason. I'm thinking that I should change the setup, any 
>> recommendations? Or is this not an issue?
>>
>> When I changed the cable, the little plastic sleeve inside the cable 
>> noodle was cracked. Seems like a potential issue for no real purpose that I 
>> can see. Unfortunately there isn't an actual cable stop built into the 
>> hanger, so I think the whole setup may need to be changed.
>>
>> Thoughts, advice?
>>
>> Here's the part:
>>
>>
>> https://www.thebikerschoice.com/product/problem-solvers-clamp-on-cable-hanger-182078-1.htm?variations=926322,926354?utm_source=google%20shopping_medium=organic_id=18999470602_id===m=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTCxJ5qK9TD6hipo0RYCdZIeE5F_M3FbHVnzmIbVVSUoKWshTJSoWaCRoCHJMQAvD_BwE
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Adam
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Problem solvers front cable hanger?

[Adam]

Hi all,

Does anyone have experience with the problem solvers front cable hanger? 
The one with a built-in "cable noodle"?

I had an LBS install Paul racers on my hillborne and they used one of 
these. Changing the brake cables this week, I realized what an odd setup 
the cable noodle thing is, it puts a 45ish degree bend in the cable for no 
real reason. I'm thinking that I should change the setup, any 
recommendations? Or is this not an issue?

When I changed the cable, the little plastic sleeve inside the cable noodle 
was cracked. Seems like a potential issue for no real purpose that I can 
see. Unfortunately there isn't an actual cable stop built into the hanger, 
so I think the whole setup may need to be changed.

Thoughts, advice?

Here's the part:

https://www.thebikerschoice.com/product/problem-solvers-clamp-on-cable-hanger-182078-1.htm?variations=926322,926354?utm_source=google%20shopping_medium=organic_id=18999470602_id===m=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTCxJ5qK9TD6hipo0RYCdZIeE5F_M3FbHVnzmIbVVSUoKWshTJSoWaCRoCHJMQAvD_BwE

Thanks,

Adam





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[RBW] Re: WTB - 135 hub

[Adam Bowen]

Found it! Thank y'all

On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 6:10:06 AM UTC-4 R. Alexis wrote:

> I know I have some mid level Shimano ones and a few no name ones. Will 
> have to look in stash. Seems like you would want something nicer. 
>
> Thanks,
>
> Reginald Alexis
>
> On Tuesday, October 31, 2023 at 12:50:14 AM UTC-5 adam.som...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> Looking for the last piece of my Appo build. Does anyone have a nice, 
>> used, silver, 135 hub for sale?
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB - 135 hub

[Adam Bowen]

Hi All,

Looking for the last piece of my Appo build. Does anyone have a nice, used, 
silver, 135 hub for sale?

Thanks!
Adam

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Allrounder 54/55cm

[Adam Bowen]

I found one! Thank you to the Group!

On Monday, October 9, 2023 at 12:03:26 PM UTC-4 Adam Bowen wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I am trying to track down a used Atlantis/Appaloosa/Platypus frame in a 
> 55ish. Located in Philly, so mid-Atlantic is ideal, but would be happy to 
> ship.
>
> Thanks!
>

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[RBW] WTB: Allrounder 54/55cm

[Adam Bowen]

Hi All,

I am trying to track down a used Atlantis/Appaloosa/Platypus frame in a 
55ish. Located in Philly, so mid-Atlantic is ideal, but would be happy to 
ship.

Thanks!

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[RBW] WTB - Atlantis or Appaloosa 54/55

[Adam Bowen]

Does anyone have a atlantis or appo frame that they are looking to sell? 
54/55cm. Located in Philly, can travel around the mid-atlantic for pickup.

Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Alternatives to Snoqualmie Pass?

[Adam]

Thanks for all the thoughts. I'm definitely curious how things would be 
different tubeless, but am on Dyads, so not happening soon--unless someone 
has a tubeless wheelset they want to trade for Dyads . . .

The update here is that I did get the Terra Speeds in 40mm. FWIW, a better 
comparison would be the Steilacooms (38 RH knobbies right?).

They are fast on the road--no exact measurements, but they didn't feel 
horribly slow coming from Snoqualmie ELs. They have a much lighter steering 
feel--more like the RH 38mm as opposed to the 44mm--I like that change. I 
adjusted to the road feel of the Snoqualmies, but it always felt clunky, 
like it took extra effort for turns, hard to make quick adjustments.

Off road, the traction is decent, got me through a few muddy underpasses 
that the herse tires can't handle. They feel tougher than the RH tires in 
my hand, but IDK what that really means. The biggest negative is volume. 
They are MUCH smaller than the snoqualmie passes, and it really shows up in 
gravel washes, sand, etc, where the Terra Speeds CUT and twist into things 
that the Herse tires float right over. (not a fair comparison, the 38mm RH 
tires have this same issue, maybe slightly less so)

Overall, I'm not sure. My favorite combo is still Hurricane Ridge EL front, 
Snoqualmie Pass EL rear, but the tight fit in front under my fenders is 
sketchy, and can't seem to avoid cuts, sidewall gashes, etc.

I'm curious if anyone's tried the Terra Speed 45mm? That might be 
interesting. Right now, the 40mm, must be around 36-38mm, but maybe they'll 
stretch out closer to 40.

enough tire nerding

Adam
On Sunday, August 20, 2023 at 3:19:12 PM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> On Sunday, August 20, 2023 at 12:13:56 PM UTC-7 psc...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> I've been riding Snoqualnie Pass standard casings tubeless on my Homer 
> with nary a flat until recently, and after the 3rd flat this summer I have 
> retired them. They had a good life but now seem too worn to keep going 
> reliably.  The rear eventually stretches a couple mm's in width over time 
> which last year prompted a front/rear flip, but now both are stretched 
> which might just be the tell tale sign they are done.  
>
>
> The tell-tale sign for me that tires are done is that you've worn through 
> the rubber and are now into the cords (see attached picture). Stretching is 
> no reason to retire a tire --- if that's the sign for wear then after a 
> couple of days my tires are worn since they always stretch! If you're 
> retiring tires just because of 1-2mm of stretch (bulges are another story 
> --- those are indicative of a failure about to happen) then you're 
> prematurely retiring tires.  Now, certain tires (notably Continental tires) 
> have sidewalls so weak that you're more likely to retire them from sidewall 
> failure than from tread wear. I haven't run any panaracers long enough to 
> know whether that's the case for them.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Alternatives to Snoqualmie Pass?

[Adam]

No flats!

I had two on one ride earlier in the week--that was the prompt for this 
thread. To be fair, my rear tire has lots of holes and cuts and has been 
through plenty, so I"m not shocked.

FWIW, my favorite mud/dirt setup has been Hurricane Ridge front, Snoqualmie 
Pass rear--the only issue for me is that I like having fenders, and don't 
feel great about 52mm fenders over the Hurricane Ridge offroad.

On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 12:52:44 PM UTC-5 Keith P. wrote:

> I've was reading this thread thinking, "I've never had a flat on my 
> Snoqualmie 
> Passes."
>
> Jinxed myself and caught one this morning:
>
> [image: IMG_1328.jpg]
>
> I have been super happy with them, but have also been wanting to try some 
> Bruce 
> Gordon Rock n' Roads. 
> Those may be more knobby than you are slightly inclined, and perhaps too 
> heavy, but they've been on my mind so I mention them here.
>
>
> On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 10:06:00 AM UTC-7 pi...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> On Fri, Aug 18, 2023 at 9:43 AM Josh (BertoBerg)  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> That's exactly where I got my Terra Speeds! $98/shipped. Obviously, RH 
>>> is a MUCH smaller company than Continental so I understand why their prices 
>>> are higher and why you can't find their products deeply discounted.
>>>
>>> That's not what's going on. Panaracer's not a small company either and 
>> they're the manufacturer. What's happening is that you're paying for both 
>> Panaracer and Rene Herse's profits. That, and Rene Herse has tighter 
>> control over discounting happening to their dealer network than Continental 
>> does.
>>  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Alternatives to Snoqualmie Pass?

[Adam]

Thanks, I'll see how the Terra Speeds compare. I agree about price, it's 
just too much for something expendable.

I'm not looking for mud tires at all, just thought I'd throw my overall 
take on the Herse tires. I'm skeptical that the Terra Speed.onobs do much 
of anything, but we'll see.

On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 9:16:16 AM UTC-5 pi...@gmail.com wrote:

> I've been running the Terraspeed 40mm (measuring 38mm on my A23 rims). I 
> have no stomach for the prices Rene Herse charges for their tires, but I 
> don't think the Terra Speed are going to satisfy you if you're riding in 
> mud. My experience with the Terraspeed is that in mud, you're going to spin 
> the tires for about half a pedal stroke before the tire sinks enough into 
> the mud to bite. It's a bit disconcerting, but here in California mud 
> doesn't happen often and I want the lightest possible tire because every 
> ride here starts with a 2000' climb.
>
> On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 5:37:14 AM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>
>>  My tires are around 40-41mm on Dyads (19mm, I think).
>>
>> Great feel, fast, horrible in mud, great in everything else, maybe a 
>> little too fragile for what they enable me to ride.
>>
>> I'm going to try the Terra Speed see how it goes. The price on those is 
>> very good at the moment, and I'd feel OK with those under 52mm fenders, I 
>> think.
>> On Thursday, August 17, 2023 at 10:41:08 PM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Eliot,
>>>
>>> 'I’m just starting my own frustrating but blissful journey with RH SP.'
>>>
>>> Just wondering what has been frustrating about your experience with the 
>>> Snoqualmies?
>>>
>>> Cheers, John
>>>
>>> On Thursday, August 17, 2023 at 7:03:28 PM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I’m curious to hear what others say. Nothing will be AS plush but you 
>>>> should be able to find a trade off for slightly more grip in exchange for 
>>>> slightly worse road feel.
>>>>
>>>> I always liked the Vittoria Terreno Dry in 650b but I don’t know how 
>>>> they translate to 700c.
>>>>
>>>> I’m just starting my own frustrating but blissful journey with RH SP.
>>>>
>>>> Other tires I considered were the Specialized Pathfinder Pro and 
>>>> Schwalbe G-One RS. 
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Aug 17, 2023 at 6:42 PM Adam  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi all,
>>>>>
>>>>> Too many holes in the tread of my snoqualmie pass ELs, time to move 
>>>>> them on.
>>>>>
>>>>> Asking the timeless question: which tires should I buy for the 
>>>>> Hillborne?
>>>>>
>>>>> I see endless variations of "gravel" tires in this size range. Anyone 
>>>>> find anything that compares well to the Rene Herse stuff? I found gravel 
>>>>> kings noticeably slower and less plush. I'm thinking about trying the 
>>>>> Terra 
>>>>> Speeds that are on sale a few places.
>>>>>
>>>>> Other ideas? I'm inclined towards slightly knobby, but have been doing 
>>>>> OK with the file tread.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>
>>>>> Adam
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d2a4180f-b4bd-49a5-a3ca-a9920627fc6dn%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>  
>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d2a4180f-b4bd-49a5-a3ca-a9920627fc6dn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Alternatives to Snoqualmie Pass?

[Adam]

 My tires are around 40-41mm on Dyads (19mm, I think).

Great feel, fast, horrible in mud, great in everything else, maybe a little 
too fragile for what they enable me to ride.

I'm going to try the Terra Speed see how it goes. The price on those is 
very good at the moment, and I'd feel OK with those under 52mm fenders, I 
think.
On Thursday, August 17, 2023 at 10:41:08 PM UTC-5 John Rinker wrote:

> Hello Eliot,
>
> 'I’m just starting my own frustrating but blissful journey with RH SP.'
>
> Just wondering what has been frustrating about your experience with the 
> Snoqualmies?
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Thursday, August 17, 2023 at 7:03:28 PM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I’m curious to hear what others say. Nothing will be AS plush but you 
>> should be able to find a trade off for slightly more grip in exchange for 
>> slightly worse road feel.
>>
>> I always liked the Vittoria Terreno Dry in 650b but I don’t know how they 
>> translate to 700c.
>>
>> I’m just starting my own frustrating but blissful journey with RH SP.
>>
>> Other tires I considered were the Specialized Pathfinder Pro and Schwalbe 
>> G-One RS. 
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 17, 2023 at 6:42 PM Adam  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Too many holes in the tread of my snoqualmie pass ELs, time to move them 
>>> on.
>>>
>>> Asking the timeless question: which tires should I buy for the Hillborne?
>>>
>>> I see endless variations of "gravel" tires in this size range. Anyone 
>>> find anything that compares well to the Rene Herse stuff? I found gravel 
>>> kings noticeably slower and less plush. I'm thinking about trying the Terra 
>>> Speeds that are on sale a few places.
>>>
>>> Other ideas? I'm inclined towards slightly knobby, but have been doing 
>>> OK with the file tread.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d2a4180f-b4bd-49a5-a3ca-a9920627fc6dn%40googlegroups.com
>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d2a4180f-b4bd-49a5-a3ca-a9920627fc6dn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Alternatives to Snoqualmie Pass?

[Adam]

Hi all,

Too many holes in the tread of my snoqualmie pass ELs, time to move them on.

Asking the timeless question: which tires should I buy for the Hillborne?

I see endless variations of "gravel" tires in this size range. Anyone find 
anything that compares well to the Rene Herse stuff? I found gravel kings 
noticeably slower and less plush. I'm thinking about trying the Terra 
Speeds that are on sale a few places.

Other ideas? I'm inclined towards slightly knobby, but have been doing OK 
with the file tread.

Thanks,

Adam

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Re: [RBW] Anyone Tried RH Snoqualmie Pass on a Sam?

[Adam]

Yes, I've got that setup and it's great. I only have a Racer on the front, 
tektro 559 on the back, but there's plenty of clearance. You do have to 
deflate the tire to get it on/off, but I've never felt that was much of an 
issue, since I rarely take off the wheel unless I've got a flat or am 
changing tires or whatever. The time it is REALLY annoying is if you ever 
get into mud, because then you have to deflate the tire to scrape off the 
mud, but those tires are so horrible in the mud anyway, that seems unlikely.

I even have the 52mm VO fenders on there as well. It's kind of tight and I 
take them off if I'm doing anything much off road, but they are 
fine--IMO--for road riding.

Good luck,

Adam

On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 9:55:55 PM UTC-5 Brian Cunningham wrote:

> Tim,
>
> I’ve got the same era Sam but with the tektro r559 brakes. Tire clearance 
> is sufficient for those 44s, but when I’ve run them I haven’t been able to 
> get the tires to pass through the brake calipers fully inflated, so I’d 
> have to finish inflating after getting the tires in place. Not sure how 
> those brakes compare with Paul Racers in terms of the size of the opening.
>
> Brian
>
> On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 6:23:42 PM UTC-7 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Can’t speak to your tire clearance but I just put these tires on my 
>> gravel bike (measured 43.75 for the extra light on 25mm ID rims) and 
>> they’re fricken amazing. Feel fast on the road and capable of up to medium 
>> gravel. 
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 10, 2023 at 6:17 PM Tim Bantham  wrote:
>>
>>> Thinking about new tires for my Sam. Has anyone fit the 700x44 Rene 
>>> Herse Snoqualmie pass? My Sam is circa 2014 and has Paul Racers. Easily 
>>> clears a 38 so I am thinking about going ever larger to the 44. Anyone out 
>>> there who has tried this tire on their  non-canti Sam?
>>>
>>>
>>> Tim
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Adam]

Thanks everyone,

I managed to make time to sort it out (can't stand not to have things 
riding shape) and the case is closed for now.

It came off with a bit of a struggle. There were a few bits of aluminum, 
which I cleaned off. Everything looks fine, so I re-greased, re-installed 
and took it a little easier on the tightening. All seems good to ride.

Thanks all!

Adam

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 12:34:11 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Agreed with Ian, when it comes to reinstalling my procress is to give it a 
> good extra tug after the clattering "it's tight" sounds start and call it a 
> day. I've tried removing the way-too-tight ones and it ain't pretty! 
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:26:50 AM UTC-7 Ian A wrote:
>
>> I'd be inclined to unscrew the lockring now, while the grease is fresh. 
>> I've always erred on the side of not tight enough with lockrings because if 
>> they do unscrew in use the only thing that has happened for me is the 
>> shifting has gone weird.  
>>
>> When you unscrew it, just be careful the removal tool is firmly seated. 
>> If needed and just to get it broken loose, you could use a QR and a couple 
>> of washers to make sure it can't slip and strip the female splines on the 
>> lockring.
>>
>> IanA
>>
>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 8:06:35 AM UTC-6 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>>
>>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>>
>>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>>
>>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>>
>>> THANKS!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Adam]

<https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM3L-6UnUTwwcnmpOXZB2ShTpdVfDQHsKNSu2ZD>
<https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipM3L-6UnUTwwcnmpOXZB2ShTpdVfDQHsKNSu2ZD>
Thanks for the thoughts, here's a quick pic. 
<https://photos.app.goo.gl/G44eanqg7XMtssZR7>

I don't have time to take the wheel off for a better image at the moment 
(running out the door), but here's a sense of the bite into the cassette. 
I'm wondering if I missed the thin washer that's supposed to be there.

Any other thoughts, I'm happy to hear. (esp if it means I can wait to deal 
with this!)

If anyone has advice on a low-budget torque wrench let me know.

THANKS

Adam


On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 9:37:45 AM UTC-5 Tony Lockhart wrote:

> Hi Adam, 
>
> Sorry to hear about the complications. I’m curious to see close-up 
> pictures of the damage.
>
> Depending on how much risk you’re comfortable with I think you could take 
> progressively longer rides to make sure everything is OK. In this situation 
> I would remove the parts, inspect, reinstall, and torque to the proper 
> spec…. Followed by a number of rides that increasing distance. This might 
> be a good teachable moment for you, and I don’t think being cautious could 
> hurt you.
>
> Good luck!
> Tony
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:06:35 AM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>
>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>
>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>
>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>
>> THANKS!
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] lock ring too tight

[Adam]

Hi all,

Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.

I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)

The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen and 
re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me in a 
year or two when I change the cassette again?

I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .

THANKS!

Adam

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[RBW] WTB: Sackville Saddlesack XS

[Adam Kimball]

I'm looking for an XS Sackville Saddlesack.  Any color but the blue 
variants will work on my Homer.  

Thanks!
Adam

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[RBW] Re: cassette advice?

[Adam]

Also, does the "megarange" setup shift well? I can imagine that being 
perfect for my situation. I could swap the 27 for a 32.

On Wednesday, December 28, 2022 at 12:16:47 PM UTC-6 Adam wrote:

> Thanks all,
>
> I appreciate the thoughts. I agree with the 48x11 being minimally useful. 
> I have found it only useful for standing and "sprinting" sometimes on long 
> flat rides.
>
> Going to try building a 12-27 and see where that gets me.
> On Wednesday, December 28, 2022 at 10:58:01 AM UTC-6 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> How much do you use the 48x11? It’s a pretty high gear, but you may 
>> prefer a lower cadence than many others. If so, I’ll be the contrarian and 
>> suggest an 11-23 9 speed. I currently use a 24-36-46 with an 11-23 9 speed 
>> on my Riv in hilly Silicon Valley, and spend a lot of time in the middle 
>> ring. I’m gathering parts to convert to 2x11 soon as a rainy winter project.
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 9:45:56 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about changing up the cassette on my Hillborne this winter. 
>>> I'm currently running an 11-32 (9sp) with 48/36/26 in front.
>>>
>>> I've moved to the midwest, and now the closest thing I see to a hill is 
>>> a freeway overpass. I'd like to try a more compact cassette, thinking 
>>> something like a 13-28. I somehow have only ridden wide range cassettes, so 
>>> this is new territory to me. Any advice on this swap?
>>>
>>> I also realize the triple front is superfluous, but don't want to swap 
>>> it unnecessarily, the cassette is getting old, cranks seem fine.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Adam - just back from a ride through Chicago snow.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: cassette advice?

[Adam]

Thanks all,

I appreciate the thoughts. I agree with the 48x11 being minimally useful. I 
have found it only useful for standing and "sprinting" sometimes on long 
flat rides.

Going to try building a 12-27 and see where that gets me.
On Wednesday, December 28, 2022 at 10:58:01 AM UTC-6 Drew Saunders wrote:

> How much do you use the 48x11? It’s a pretty high gear, but you may prefer 
> a lower cadence than many others. If so, I’ll be the contrarian and suggest 
> an 11-23 9 speed. I currently use a 24-36-46 with an 11-23 9 speed on my 
> Riv in hilly Silicon Valley, and spend a lot of time in the middle ring. 
> I’m gathering parts to convert to 2x11 soon as a rainy winter project.
>
> On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 9:45:56 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm thinking about changing up the cassette on my Hillborne this winter. 
>> I'm currently running an 11-32 (9sp) with 48/36/26 in front.
>>
>> I've moved to the midwest, and now the closest thing I see to a hill is a 
>> freeway overpass. I'd like to try a more compact cassette, thinking 
>> something like a 13-28. I somehow have only ridden wide range cassettes, so 
>> this is new territory to me. Any advice on this swap?
>>
>> I also realize the triple front is superfluous, but don't want to swap it 
>> unnecessarily, the cassette is getting old, cranks seem fine.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Adam - just back from a ride through Chicago snow.
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] cassette advice?

[Adam]

Thanks all,

I had not tried that gear calculator, but was using another. This one is 
nicely laid out.

My thinking seems like it will work. Basically, I currently use the 48T and 
end up between the 16 - 18 - 21 a lot of the time on faster road rides. I'd 
like to have more gears in between these cogs. I'll find a cassette that 
has them and see how it treats me.

I'm looking at a 12-27 now, and seeing that as Joe said, I could use the 36 
instead of the 48 and have a lot more options in the 70-85" range where I 
spend all of my time.

going to give it a shot and see what I think

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 3:32:24 PM UTC-6 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Also in your case I wouldn't worry about duplicate ratios, if you ride 
> like me on the flats you're going to mostly be in the middle ring and just 
> run up and down the cassette. The low and high front rings will see very 
> occasional use. Is my guess. 
>
> On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 1:26:44 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> I don't see any non-obvious issues (unless I don't see it cuz it's 
>> non-obvious!), you're keeping the triple so still need your long cage 
>> derailers. I'm not sure you'll find a 13-28 9-speed though*, most I've come 
>> across or can recall have an 11 or 12t final cog. There's 12-27 9ers out 
>> there which might do the trick for you. Of course if you're friction 
>> shifting you can grab a 13-28 8-speed.
>>
>> *Someone here may prove me wrong and find one for you. 
>>
>> Joe Bernard 
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 11:18:51 AM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks everyone,
>>>
>>> Just to clarify, my goal is to add some additional steps within my 
>>> existing range. I often find--especially longer rides with constant 
>>> winds--that I don't have quite the gear that I'd like to sustain my pace.
>>>
>>> My plan is to just base things off my current setup and the gear 
>>> calculator, just curious of there are other, not obvious considerations.
>>>
>>> THANKS
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 12:45:24 PM UTC-6 mike goldman wrote:
>>>
>>>> adam, 
>>>>
>>>> a triple is fine. i would use a cassette with an 11t first cog so you 
>>>> will have some low end on those flats and downhills 
>>>>
>>>> mike in rhode island 
>>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] cassette advice?

[Adam]

Thanks everyone,

Just to clarify, my goal is to add some additional steps within my existing 
range. I often find--especially longer rides with constant winds--that I 
don't have quite the gear that I'd like to sustain my pace.

My plan is to just base things off my current setup and the gear 
calculator, just curious of there are other, not obvious considerations.

THANKS

On Tuesday, December 27, 2022 at 12:45:24 PM UTC-6 mike goldman wrote:

> adam,
>
> a triple is fine. i would use a cassette with an 11t first cog so you will 
> have some low end on those flats and downhills
>
> mike in rhode island
>

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[RBW] cassette advice?

[Adam]

Hi all,

I'm thinking about changing up the cassette on my Hillborne this winter. 
I'm currently running an 11-32 (9sp) with 48/36/26 in front.

I've moved to the midwest, and now the closest thing I see to a hill is a 
freeway overpass. I'd like to try a more compact cassette, thinking 
something like a 13-28. I somehow have only ridden wide range cassettes, so 
this is new territory to me. Any advice on this swap?

I also realize the triple front is superfluous, but don't want to swap it 
unnecessarily, the cassette is getting old, cranks seem fine.

Thanks!

Adam - just back from a ride through Chicago snow.

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[RBW] WTB: Rene Herse Parts

[Adam Bowen]

Hello Everyone!

Does anyone happen to have some Rene Herse parts laying around that they 
would sell me?

Also looking for:

   - *Front cable hanger*
   - *M-13 front rack for canti brakes*
   - *decaleur*

Thanks!

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[RBW] ISO: 59cm Roadeo

[Adam Kimball]

I'm looking for a clean 59cm Roadeo.  Let me know if you have something!

Thanks,
Adam

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[RBW] Re: FS: very used Barlow and Steilacoom

[Adam]

Sold

On Saturday, October 1, 2022 at 10:00:06 AM UTC-5 Adam wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I've moved up a size in RH tire land and can sell some fairly well used 
> 38mm tires.
>
> Barlow Pass EL (tanwall)
> Steilacoom standard
>
> I'd like to sell these together, to keep the shipping/content ratio 
> reasonable and price low. Both front tires are in good shape, both rear 
> tires are well worn, but with life remaining. There are a few nicks in the 
> Barlow pass tread, but they do not go all the way through. No sidewall 
> damage.
>
> Price $50 + shipping for the four tires.
>
> PICS via link <https://photos.app.goo.gl/djR3S8A8K1wcVwFcA>- 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/djR3S8A8K1wcVwFcA
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adam
>
> [image: PXL_20221001_021837820.jpg][image: PXL_20221001_021908722.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Your Road or Road-ish Riv Rubber Radius (tire width)

[Adam]

I accidentally ended up trying Hurricane Ridge front with Snoqualmie Pass 
rear--as a way to salvage the two front tires from worn pairs.

I really like the setup. I find the handling on-road closer to what I had 
with the 38 slicks, but there's more grip and float, esp in wet stuff.

I'm not sure how the combo will be on wet pavement or road only rides, but 
I like it for what I've done so far 

Adam

On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:32:45 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Scott — I don't have any relevant experience to share from riding off 
> road. I love the idea of knobs and slicks together on one Sam. Certainly 
> there's a good bit of writing out there somewhere explaining the nuances. 
>
> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 11:12:48 AM UTC-4 greenteadrinkers wrote:
>
>> Hi Andrew - thanks for the insight! 
>> There was a review someplace about the benefit of mixing a smooth with a 
>> knobby, just can't remember exactly what the benefit was!
>> Scott - Amherst MA
>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 10:57:33 AM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> Scott, I've swapped between both Hatcher Pass and Oracle Ridge tires on 
>>> my Monstercross and can confidently say both do surprisingly well off-road. 
>>> Where I live, when things get really rough, they're often really wet as 
>>> well so the Oracle Ridge tires had slightly more grip in those slippery 
>>> conditions but truly slightly. Having both on the same bike honestly seems 
>>> like the way to go since I couldn't ever make up my mind of which tire I 
>>> preferred.  
>>>
>>> Andrew 
>>> TN
>>>
>>> On Fri, Aug 19, 2022 at 9:07 AM greenteadrinkers  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Eric, currently I have 700c 48mm Oracle Ridge standard casing tires 
>>>> (tubeless) usually around 24 psi on my 54cm Sam. My local roads are a mix 
>>>> of smooth to broken pavement, gravel, double track, and some single track. 
>>>> I've found the 48's are smooth, quiet, and confident. Aside from road, can 
>>>> you speak to the 44mm Snoqualmie Pass tires on mixed surfaces? I'm 
>>>> considering swapping out the rear Oracle Ridge with a slick Hatcher Pass 
>>>> 48mm, I like the idea that you can mix and match.
>>>>
>>>> Thx!
>>>> Scott - Amherst MA
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, August 19, 2022 at 12:53:16 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I love the Rene Herse options but if the conditions aren't perfect, 
>>>>> Panaracer Paselas are just so good on damp/wet roads for confidence 
>>>>> braking 
>>>>> and cornering. 
>>>>> I run the biggest (38s) on my two mainly road bikes, the Homer and the 
>>>>> Holdsworth. If they made a 42-44 in the Pasela I probably wouldn't go 
>>>>> back 
>>>>> to the much more expensive Jan Heine creations.
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
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>>>> .
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
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>>>>  
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>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS- nitto mini front rack, nitto light mount, nitto noodle cockpit, brooks c17

[Adam Moss]

Rear rack spoken for.

On Monday, August 15, 2022 at 8:43:34 PM UTC-7 Adam Moss wrote:

> All items sold except the brooks c-17 saddle. Make me an offer if you're 
> interested.
>
> I have a nitto big rear rack I'm not using but would only be interested if 
> a buyer was local. Thanks all!
>
> On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 6:11:30 PM UTC-7 mitchel...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> which nitto rear rack?
>> On Tuesday, August 9, 2022 at 11:25:10 AM UTC-7 ocea...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> Light mount sold.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, August 9, 2022 at 10:44:57 AM UTC-7 Adam Moss wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi all,
>>>>
>>>> Please see my CL listing for items. Discount for RBW group members! 
>>>> Make me an offer. Local pick up preferred; open to shipping at buyers 
>>>> expense. I also have a large nitto rear rack that I haven't yet listed and 
>>>> a couple medium shop sacks I can document as well.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bop/d/berkeley-nitto-rack-cockpit-light-mount/7518885898.html
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>> Adam
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS- nitto mini front rack, nitto light mount, nitto noodle cockpit, brooks c17

[Adam Moss]

All items sold except the brooks c-17 saddle. Make me an offer if you're 
interested.

I have a nitto big rear rack I'm not using but would only be interested if 
a buyer was local. Thanks all!

On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 6:11:30 PM UTC-7 mitchel...@gmail.com wrote:

> which nitto rear rack?
> On Tuesday, August 9, 2022 at 11:25:10 AM UTC-7 ocea...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Light mount sold.
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 9, 2022 at 10:44:57 AM UTC-7 Adam Moss wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Please see my CL listing for items. Discount for RBW group members! Make 
>>> me an offer. Local pick up preferred; open to shipping at buyers expense. I 
>>> also have a large nitto rear rack that I haven't yet listed and a couple 
>>> medium shop sacks I can document as well.
>>>
>>>
>>> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bop/d/berkeley-nitto-rack-cockpit-light-mount/7518885898.html
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Sycip "singles bar"

[Adam Ratcliffe]

I was running the Soma Oxford bar (essentially the same as the Albatross) 
on my Midnight Special and wanted something a little wider and less swept 
back but still with some rise. I put the Sycip JJJ bar on and have been 
really liking it so far. It has similar sweep to the Singles Bar and is a 
little wider, but not by much, and has 20mm rise. I've found it a pretty 
nice balance between on road comfort and control on rougher terrain. I'm 
using ESI chunky grips on them.

On Sunday, August 14, 2022 at 7:43:08 AM UTC-7 jeffbog...@hotmail.com wrote:

> Great inputs here, thanks! I'm open to ideas for all-day and mixed terrain 
> comfort as well. What grips, bars, and seats do folks like best for this 
> type of riding? Coming from albatross, ergon, and b17 - maybe this is as 
> good as it gets?
>
> Jeff
>
> On Sunday, 14 August 2022 at 01:07:59 UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> Sycip has several interesting bars that I hardly ever see on bikes. One 
>> is a flattish bar similar to Jitensha and Riv Nitto Wavie that uses road 
>> levers like an Albastache. Nifty! 
>>
>> On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 10:40:23 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:
>>
>>> Never rode them or knew that they existed.  I thought about buying some 
>>> Nitto 
>>> B812 bars . 
>>> Almost the same as Singles Bar but more narrow, available only from Blue 
>>> Lug.   My friend has the wider Crust Juan Martin bars and likes them a lot. 
>>>  Seems like a good in-between of swept back and straight.  I imagine you 
>>> can still get rowdy with them, where swept back feel too relaxed, and 
>>> straight bars are not relaxed enough for regular seated riding. Thanks for 
>>> bringing these to my attention.   
>>>
>>> On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 6:05:22 PM UTC-7 mitchel...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 yeah these were wider cruiser type bars but like Joe said, no rise.. 
 reminded me of a narrower juan martin bar.

 On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 1:42:02 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I don't have one to sell but I've owned one, I really liked the grip 
> angle. No rise though so make sure you're ok with a lower bar (or can 
> raise 
> your stem). 
>
> On Saturday, August 13, 2022 at 1:25:36 PM UTC-7 
> jeffbog...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>> Anybody have experience with this handlebar? Looking to replace the 
>> Albatross on my Atlantis with something having less sweepback and this 
>> seems like it might be perfect. Thanks!
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS- nitto mini front rack, nitto light mount, nitto noodle cockpit, brooks c17

[Adam Moss]

Light mount sold.

On Tuesday, August 9, 2022 at 10:44:57 AM UTC-7 Adam Moss wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Please see my CL listing for items. Discount for RBW group members! Make 
> me an offer. Local pick up preferred; open to shipping at buyers expense. I 
> also have a large nitto rear rack that I haven't yet listed and a couple 
> medium shop sacks I can document as well.
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bop/d/berkeley-nitto-rack-cockpit-light-mount/7518885898.html
>
> Thanks!
> Adam
>

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[RBW] FS- nitto mini front rack, nitto light mount, nitto noodle cockpit, brooks c17

[Adam Moss]

Hi all,

Please see my CL listing for items. Discount for RBW group members! Make me 
an offer. Local pick up preferred; open to shipping at buyers expense. I 
also have a large nitto rear rack that I haven't yet listed and a couple 
medium shop sacks I can document as well.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bop/d/berkeley-nitto-rack-cockpit-light-mount/7518885898.html

Thanks!
Adam

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[RBW] Re: dynamo rebuild or new wheel

[Adam]

Thanks all, very helpful.

I'm glad to hear other folks think it makes sense to rebuild the wheel, it 
seems simplest.

Best

Adam
On Wednesday, June 29, 2022 at 7:03:17 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

> I swap rims and hubs and spokes all the time. I don't re-use spoke 
> nipples, though. But I never mismatch front and rear rims (black 
> Cliffhangers of 20" and 27.5" on my cargo bike), just goes against my 
> grain. I say lace the dyno hub into the existing rim. Keep the hub and 
> spokes, so they can be swapped back in if you want to move the dyno hub in 
> the future. 
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Tuesday, June 28, 2022 at 6:53:48 PM UTC-4 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I'm about to work out my first dynamo setup. I have hub and lights, but 
>> have a rim/wheel question.
>>
>> The bike that's getting dynamoed currently has a set of A23s in decent 
>> shape. I'm no wheelbuilder myself, so I'm trying to decide between having 
>> the shop use the rim from my current wheel and rebuild with the dynamo hub 
>> I have, or just buying a new rim and having an entirely new wheel built.
>>
>> A new rim -- A23 (silver polished) -- will be around $150. I have no use, 
>> or space, for a 2nd wheel. Yet it seems kind of silly to dismantle a 
>> working wheel to rebuild.
>>
>> Any advice on this??
>>
>> Maybe a secondary question - if I go the new rim route, any thoughts on 
>> whether to go with another A23 vs a quill (or something else?) - The rear 
>> is a polished silver A23.
>>
>> Thanks for your thoughts,
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] dynamo rebuild or new wheel

[Adam]

Hi all,

I'm about to work out my first dynamo setup. I have hub and lights, but 
have a rim/wheel question.

The bike that's getting dynamoed currently has a set of A23s in decent 
shape. I'm no wheelbuilder myself, so I'm trying to decide between having 
the shop use the rim from my current wheel and rebuild with the dynamo hub 
I have, or just buying a new rim and having an entirely new wheel built.

A new rim -- A23 (silver polished) -- will be around $150. I have no use, 
or space, for a 2nd wheel. Yet it seems kind of silly to dismantle a 
working wheel to rebuild.

Any advice on this??

Maybe a secondary question - if I go the new rim route, any thoughts on 
whether to go with another A23 vs a quill (or something else?) - The rear 
is a polished silver A23.

Thanks for your thoughts,

Adam

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Sackville Saddlesack Large

[Adam]

PM sent - (I thought I posted this earlier, but it didn't go through.)

Adam

On Thursday, June 16, 2022 at 11:57:16 AM UTC-5 eric.j...@gmail.com wrote:

> That's a nice looking bag. How much clearance do you need from seat to 
> tire?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Eric
>
> On Thu, Jun 16, 2022 at 10:39 AM E. Ricky Creek  
> wrote:
>
>> Bump.
>>
>> $150 shipped. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 15, 2022 at 10:50:58 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>>
>>> Link to pictures: 
>>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/101J-pfoZ6t9HhmYfH_ZQ6FT6cXScr8aE?usp=sharing
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, June 15, 2022 at 10:50:06 AM UTC-5 Scott Lutz wrote:
>>>
>>>> Link to pictures: 
>>>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/101J-pfoZ6t9HhmYfH_ZQ6FT6cXScr8aE?usp=sharing
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, June 15, 2022 at 10:41:30 AM UTC-5 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have an almost brand new large Saddle Sack. This is likely from the 
>>>>> 3rd run. I bought two at the same time to safeguard against the future, 
>>>>> but 
>>>>> my first one from 2011 is still my main commuter bag and I honestly don't 
>>>>> see it ever falling apart (though it looks really beat), so I am selling 
>>>>> this one. I mounted it a couple of times, maybe rode with it twice, and 
>>>>> then moved it around the garage for a few years. It has two grease spots 
>>>>> and the saddle mounting leather shows a tiny bit of creasing from being 
>>>>> mounted. The plastic stiffener inside is spotless and the underside is 
>>>>> the 
>>>>> same. 
>>>>>
>>>>> It is gray. 
>>>>>
>>>>> How about 170 bucks shipped? 
>>>>>
>>>>> Scott
>>>>>
>>>>> Photos to follow. I am having mega tech issues with photos across all 
>>>>> things at the moment. 
>>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/cf38e9ab-f569-4f30-bec7-7674f1700aa7n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB Paul Love Levers

[Adam Moss]

Hey all,

Wondering if anyone has some Paul Love Levers that they're looking to sell 
in either black or silver. Thanks!

Adam
Berkeley, CA

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Hurricane Ridge

[Adam]

Thanks, I think the endurance casing sounds like the way to go. Maybe I'll 
try one on the front with my current EL in the back.

The funny thing about the RH tires is that they feel so solid, I always end 
up pushing them farther than they can go. Snoqualmie Passes somehow always 
lead me to singletrack, then I want knobs, etc.

Adam

On Tuesday, May 31, 2022 at 10:11:58 PM UTC-5 Bones wrote:

> I don't have a pair for sale but I do have a pair in the endurance casing 
> and I think they're great. They don't roll quite as smoothly as the lighter 
> casings but they definitely do not feel like they will tear. Great tough 
> all-around tire for a Hillborne. Good luck.
>
> Bones
>
> On Tuesday, May 31, 2022 at 2:55:41 PM UTC-4 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> If anyone has a used set--or single--RH Hurricane Ridge that you want to 
>> clear out, let me know.
>>
>> I recently bought a used set of black ELs from the list and really liked 
>> the feel of these on the one ride they survived before tearing a sidewall. 
>> As it stands, I'm not entirely convinced I want to shell out $90/tire for 
>> the endurance casing, but they really fit the Hillborne nicely.
>>
>> If anyone has a pair, or single, in whatever casing, I'd love to try them 
>> a bit more before dropping the $$$ on a new pair.
>>
>> THANKS!
>>
>> Adam
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB: Hurricane Ridge

[Adam]

Hi all,

If anyone has a used set--or single--RH Hurricane Ridge that you want to 
clear out, let me know.

I recently bought a used set of black ELs from the list and really liked 
the feel of these on the one ride they survived before tearing a sidewall. 
As it stands, I'm not entirely convinced I want to shell out $90/tire for 
the endurance casing, but they really fit the Hillborne nicely.

If anyone has a pair, or single, in whatever casing, I'd love to try them a 
bit more before dropping the $$$ on a new pair.

THANKS!

Adam



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[RBW] Re: WTB: Drivetrain parts

[Adam]

Thanks to everyone who reached out. Just to save anyone new from jumping 
in, I think I'm set with what I need.

That was FAST!

On Tuesday, May 10, 2022 at 10:51:02 AM UTC-5 Bones wrote:

> PM sent.
>
> Bones
>
> On Tuesday, May 10, 2022 at 10:03:29 AM UTC-4 Adam wrote:
>
>> I'm working on assembling parts for a build and need drivetrain stuff. 
>> I'm not so knowledgeable about compatibility issues so am hoping to find 
>> someone with a functional set of parts they're wanting to move along.
>>
>> Aiming for
>> 9sp cassette 11-34
>> dura ace bar ends
>> derailers (compatible with this gearing range and indexing)
>> 46/30 crankset (170) 
>>
>> The freewheel is set up 11sp, so I could theoretically use something 
>> other than 9, but prefer 9sp for compatibility with my other bikes.
>>
>> Please send me a message if you have any of this that you're looking to 
>> move along.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Drivetrain parts

[Adam]

 I'm working on assembling parts for a build and need drivetrain stuff. I'm 
not so knowledgeable about compatibility issues so am hoping to find 
someone with a functional set of parts they're wanting to move along.

Aiming for
9sp cassette 11-34
dura ace bar ends
derailers (compatible with this gearing range and indexing)
46/30 crankset (170) 

The freewheel is set up 11sp, so I could theoretically use something other 
than 9, but prefer 9sp for compatibility with my other bikes.

Please send me a message if you have any of this that you're looking to 
move along.

Thanks,

Adam

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[RBW] Re: Craigslist (and others) Bikes For Sale: 3

[Adam]

If the seller of the Chicago Clem is on this list, feel free to reach out 
directly and skip the ebay fees. I'm in Chicago and interested.

On Monday, May 2, 2022 at 6:31:15 PM UTC-5 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Clem Smith H
> 59cm
> 1200
> Chicago, IL
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/304470023651
>
>
> Rambouillet
> (contact seller for size)
> 603
> New Hampshire
>
> https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/d/rindge-rivendell-rambouillet-randonneur/7478359535.html
>
>
> Romulus (with cantis!)
> 57cm
> 1500
> Seattle, WA
>
> https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-rivendell-romulus-57cm/7478039515.html

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[RBW] FS: Cazadero 42s

[Adam]

Hi all,

FS: 42mm Cazaderos. Maybe 150 miles on these before I realized I could fit 
something bigger. Maybe a little dirt, but otherwise very good condition.

$60 + shipping

Thanks,

Adam

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[RBW] WTB - Oracle Ridge or Antelope Hill

[Adam]

This warm streak in the midwest has me fantasizing about taking off my 
studded winter tires and cutting loose.

I'm looking to try something other than my current 2.1 Thunderburt's, which 
are a little sketchy-tight under my fenders.

If anyone has a used set of Oracle Ridge or Antelope Hill tires (ideally 
ELs in tanwall) let me know. I'm up for something very used, if that's what 
you have. I'd like to play around with options for a bit before deciding on 
something.

I'd also try Cazadero 50s if anyone has those around.

Thanks!

Adam

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[RBW] WTB: 45cm Clem Smith Jr. Stepthrough (26")

[Adam Harms]

Howdy!

Long time lurker, Bridgestone owner, Riv bar hoarder, and father of an 8 
month old here.  I'm looking to get my petite (5'1") special lady outfitted 
for bicycle errands and fun with baby once the weather clears in the 
Willamette Valley and the baby is big enough.  She currently has a 
Bridgestone MB-3 with Bosco bars and a standover that is too tight for 
comfort with a baby on front (planning on a Yepp Mini).

A small Clem stepthrough would be perfect for hauling baby, groceries, 
light trail use, potential future bike camping, etc. The 26" wheel size 
would allow an easy transfer of parts from the MB-3.

Anybody have a frame they would sell? I'm open to shipping or picking up in 
the Willamette Valley. I have some frames and bars that could be part of a 
trade.

Thanks!

Adam in Philomath, OR

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[RBW] WTB: Paul Racer (silver)

[Adam]

Hi, I think I'm not alone here, but looking for a front--or pair--of silver 
Paul Racers for my Hillborne.

If anyone has either a single front, or pair, that they'd like to sell, 
please send me a message.

Thanks

Adam


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Re: [RBW] Re: Cold Weather Riding Gear

[Adam]

Like you, this is my first winter riding in the midwest -- in Chicago.

I've been pleasantly surprised that anything above 0 or so is working 
fairly well for me. I went out for a while in the single digits yesterday 
and was very warm. My biggest challenge is not overdressing and making sure 
to preemptively unzip or remove layers--sweating is no good. Also finding 
ways to drink water and snack . . .

My favorite things:
Outdoor Research lobster gloves (Hi-camp three finger)
thin wool balaclava (can't believe how effective this is)
ski googles (though the fog/ice thing is tough if you get too warm)
thin & thick wool socks (two pairs) in boots
marathon winter plus tires (riding on ice is not a problem now)

For what it's worth, riding through the snow on a bike that shouldn't be 
there is kind of fun, and definitely an insane workout.

Adam

On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 11:08:29 AM UTC-6 David Hallerman wrote:

> One main thing I've found to keep my head warm when it's really cold, 45° 
> and below, besides a thin wool watch cap and a Chrome hoodie is a helmet 
> one size larger. My winter helmet. Because I dunno how it works for others, 
> but more than a thin item underneath my normal size helmet is too tight. 
> Doesn't work for warmth, gives me a literal headache.
>
> One size up. For my helmet, and it's the same way I keep my feet warm. 
> Winter cycling boots, but one size up from normal. And then I wear 
> super-thick Smartwool or Darn Tough hiking socks with lots of cushion. 
> Again, not tight, which means air circulates, which keeps my feet warmer.
>
> Dave, who notes temps right now here in the lower Hudson Valley are in 
> the mid-20s which is kinda below his winter cycling comfort zone
>
> ==
> On 1/27/22 11:55 AM, Ben Mihovk wrote:
>
> I have the ear-flap cap from Randi Jo, and I'm going to go on record and 
> say it's one of the best purchases I've made. I'll ride in "feels like" 
> single digits and this cap under my helmet with a Smartwool neck gaiter 
> pulled up to my chin keeps me warm enough for a good 25-30 minutes in the 
> coldest temps. The cap is an absolute dream to have all the way up into the 
> 40s and 50s, too. It never gets too hot up into that range. 
>
> Ben in Omaha 
>
> On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:28:14 AM UTC-6 Bicycle Belle Ding 
> Ding! wrote:
>
>> [image: 2C86C1A3-551B-48AD-A438-D54540285CBC.jpeg][image: 
>> 8E1C820E-0ADB-4618-B460-58A921CC44F4.jpeg][image: 
>> 34FA3E14-5115-45F4-9F66-4FCFE8E72434.jpeg][image: 
>> 28C51ED9-A92F-45A3-9AD4-314350A05BE3.jpeg]All this talk here and there 
>> on the threads about Who Is Wearing What for cold weather riding made me 
>> start a dedicated thread. There are certainly some archived threads on cold 
>> weather gear, but offerings change so here’s an updated thread. I am 
>> interested in this topic because I now live in Southwest Michigan and 
>> cannot bring myself to bike in temps below 35. But I miss riding so much, 
>> and if the roads are clear of snow and ice, I’d like to go. But what to 
>> wear?  
>>
>> Last night I attended a Zoom with the famous Betty Foy rider and Cycling 
>> Savvy instructor Pamela Murray, and this was our very subject. There were a 
>> lot of good ideas presented, the common denominator being WOOL. Today I 
>> looked around online for some clothing that would help me out. Until 
>> December, I had been living in the desert so I’ll have a few pieces I’ll 
>> have to purchase, but most people won’t have to buy so much. Here are some 
>> things I found (and some of which I did order): 
>>
>> REI jacket is not, admittedly, wool. But it gets wonderful reviews and it 
>> does have pit vents, reflectors and is made from recycled nylon so it’s not 
>> contributing to the landfill problem. The hood is meant to fit over the 
>> helmet - a huge plus.
>>
>> The helmet is because my Nutcase is between 9-10 years old and 
>> disintegrating inside, so never mind that. (But won’t it be cute with my 
>> jacket?)
>>
>> The leg warmers were recommended by Pam, and after looking around online, 
>> they seem to have no rival. They are wool and made in the USA. Sustainable 
>> this and that, all the good stuff.
>>
>> The cap is wool and from our Randi Jo out of Elkton, OR. My ears have 
>> been freezing when I’m out running because stocking caps creep up and 
>> expose my ears. Headbands don’t keep your head warm. This cap does double 
>> duty and I’m excited to try it.
>>
>> Analog has some really promising “pogies” by their 5th Season house 
>> brand, but they are for drop bars and they have not yet said whether they 
>> will work for swept back b

[RBW] Re: ISO Brooklyn Riv Bike 'Gang'

[Adam Smith]

Also interested! Also in Bed Stuy with my Joe Appaloosa!

On Monday, January 24, 2022 at 11:29:45 AM UTC-5 chase@gmail.com wrote:

> Keep me posted if some rides get organized, for sure interested. I am in 
> Bed Stuy with a Clem L and a Sam. Sounds fun! Chase
>
> On Sunday, January 23, 2022 at 6:11:40 PM UTC-5 Roberta wrote:
>
>> I cannot do any riding with the group on a regular basis, seeing that I 
>> live about 90 miles south in Philadelphia, but if the group comes over to 
>> the NJ side for a ride or part of ride, I'd join you.  It's always nice 
>> meeting like minded people.
>>
>> Kai, I love your Roscoe mixte, and especially your homemade weaved 
>> basket.  That is art to my eyes.  
>>
>> Roberta
>>
>> On Saturday, January 22, 2022 at 7:41:51 PM UTC-5 Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Cold rubber is fast rubber, let's shred! (says the guy with two kids and 
>>> a job that burns the present daylight hours away)
>>> I'd like to do a ride that started with a ferry across the river to 
>>> Jersey City, winding our way up to the George Washington bridge. From there 
>>> we could head north over the Hudson bridge to the Bronx, then weave our way 
>>> down the Harlem River and East river, crossing every bridge we can. Every 
>>> crossing possible might be fun? Or something less ridiculous would be fine, 
>>> if you're into that sort of thing...
>>> Shirley Chisholm gravel grinder! (or hoagies, heros, subs, whatevs)
>>> -Kai, of Williamsburg East and a sloppily dressed Mixte, among others
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 10:25:01 PM UTC-5 Minh wrote:
>>>
 Hi all, my name is Minh and i'm on the lookout for other Brooklyn 
 Riv'sters, maybe we can start a gang, and by gang i mean a bunch of slow 
 riders that will use our age, wisdom and sharply appointed bikes to 
 intimidate the go-fast riders in Prospect Park.  

 In all seriousness, i've got a Quickbeam here that i am desperately 
 trying to justify keeping in this cramped Park Slope apartment.  Something 
 that would go a long way towards that is to get out and ride with 
 like-minded folks.   Maybe when it gets warmer we can do a ride out of 
 town?  I know i've seen a sharply dressed Riv Mixte riding thru the park, 
 if you see me on my QB--you'll know its me from the over the top 
 accessories, please say hi!

 If this is interesting please reply here, i'll collect names and we can 
 start a local mini thread? 

 On a related note have a small pile of bike parts that i'm not likely 
 to use that i'd like to donate, if anyone is aware of a co-op that is open 
 taking donations, please let me know!

>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A Hunq

[Adam Moss]

I have a 53cm Hunq. I believe it's the most recently built Hunqapillar, 
built in 2019 by Steve Rex in Sacramento as a kind of one of 
thing- https://www.instagram.com/p/ByGJjRtn1ED/

It's a bit of an amalgamation of some of their most recent frame designs 
and I'm just smitten. It's become my only bike (other than the FS MTB and 
the family hauler) and I am never left wanting. The Hunq owners club is a 
good one to be a part of.

Adam in Berkeley

On Friday, December 10, 2021 at 10:52:51 AM UTC-8 Geir Bentzen wrote:

> I have a 62 cm green Hunq that I bought from Riv in 2014. I believe I was 
> told the frame came from Waterford at that time. Ordered in April 2014 and 
> delivered July 10. I have Nitto Noodles on and use the bike as much as 
> possible. It's a pleasant ride, though I may change the Noodles out to 
> something more upright as I grow older. I am in my early sixties already.
>
> Geir
>
> On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 2:59:40 PM UTC-5 mkernan...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I believe Rivs last run of Hunqs( Green) looked like a great bike but 
>> they did a really short run of them.The chainstay was an in between 
>> length( 49cm) of earlier Rivs and the current longer stays.  It had less BB 
>> drop ( 71mm) and a decent stack/ reach ratio where drop bars were a little 
>> more feasible.  And it was offered in 700c and 650b in the 59cm size which 
>> was pretty neat. And possibly( I can’t remember)  no diagatube in the 59 
>> size which turned some people off,  not me though. Another run of Hunqs 
>> would probably get a lot of interest.-Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 9, 2021, at 7:11 AM, 'Gary L' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've got a 2015 grey/kidney bean 58 hunq that I bought new and I'm sure 
>> that one was built in Taiwan. I remember cause I was talking to Grant when 
>> I ordered it and he assured me the quality was equal to the Toyo-built 
>> bikes. It's still a great bike - wherever it came from!
>>
>> On Wednesday, December 8, 2021 at 8:28:14 PM UTC-5 Chris L wrote:
>>
>>> I've always wondered if my Hunqapillar was a Taiwan model and I thought 
>>> this thread might give me the answer, but my top headtube lug seems to be 
>>> the same as yours, but the lower one is different.  I thought the orange 
>>> ones all came in one batch, but maybe that's not the case?  
>>>
>>> [image: 20190422_062154.jpg]
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, December 8, 2021 at 8:30:01 AM UTC-6 Marc Irwin wrote:
>>>
>>>> [image: IMG_0774.JPG]
>>>> That is the lug work and paint from the Waterford production run. 
>>>>
>>>> Marc
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 7:03:29 PM UTC-5 Nikko in Oakland wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Just wanted to share the only bike I think will be in my stable for 
>>>>> ever. It's a 54cm Hunq. I'm pretty sure it's Taiwan made, since it 
>>>>> doesn't 
>>>>> have Waterford etched into the drop out. I've been working on this bike 
>>>>> for 
>>>>> 18 months to get it here, and I'm finally happy with where I've landed. 
>>>>> The 
>>>>> only immediate changes might be... changing the 'tross bars to Billie 
>>>>> bars. 
>>>>> It's also set up for quick swaps in case I want to use Bullmoose bars 
>>>>> that 
>>>>> day. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Enjoy. Happy to answer questions. 
>>>>>
>>>>> [image: IMG_4909.jpeg]
>>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/888055b9-68b2-4b48-bd85-68891f9772a7n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Adam Smith]

I forgot to follow up. Tightening the D-ring as suggested here did the
trick of course. I turned it clockwise about a half turn, then backed off
that position just a wee bit during the test ride (in light snow!) and
found the sweet spot. Easy peezy! Thanks all!

Adam

On Mon, Nov 29, 2021 at 12:33 PM atreya...@gmail.com <
atreya.dee...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I would also check the tension the D-ring . I typically start tightening
> all the way , put the shifter under max tension and start loosening it
> until it barely holds it in that position. I have found that this gives me
> the right balance of tension.
>
> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 8:22:33 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:
>
>> From what you wrote Adam it's a matter of adjusting the tension bolt,
>> which I'm assuming is a d-ring, yes ? These are adjustable on the fly, you
>> want just enough tension to hold the gear. It's just something you get a
>> feel for, not too tight, not too loose.
>>
>> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:19:52 AM UTC-5 adamc...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>>
>>> I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell.
>>> Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most
>>> of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was
>>> a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.
>>>
>>> Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear
>>> shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of
>>> the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next
>>> largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and
>>> would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one
>>> cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that
>>> would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to
>>> the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out
>>> rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each
>>> time.
>>>
>>> I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like
>>> ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its
>>> own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all
>>> the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver
>>> shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some
>>> things).
>>>
>>> I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective
>>> knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts or tips?
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
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[RBW] ISO: Appaloosa 57 - complete, ideally

[Adam Kimball]

I'm looking for a 57cm Appaloosa.  Ideally in orange and built up as a 
trail rider.  But will consider any variants, too!

Adam

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[RBW] Re: Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Adam Smith]

D-ring, yes. I'll give it a shot, thanks for the tip. This is my first time 
using friction shifting on a bicycle so it's all new to me!

Does that d-ring / tension tend to need regular attention or does it just 
need to be dialed initially and then get on with it and forget about it?


On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 11:22:33 AM UTC-5 Garth wrote:

> From what you wrote Adam it's a matter of adjusting the tension bolt, 
> which I'm assuming is a d-ring, yes ? These are adjustable on the fly, you 
> want just enough tension to hold the gear. It's just something you get a 
> feel for, not too tight, not too loose. 
>
> On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 9:19:52 AM UTC-5 adamc...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell. 
>> Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most 
>> of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was 
>> a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.
>>
>> Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear 
>> shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of 
>> the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next 
>> largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and 
>> would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one 
>> cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that 
>> would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to 
>> the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out 
>> rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each 
>> time.
>>
>> I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like 
>> ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its 
>> own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all 
>> the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver 
>> shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some 
>> things).
>>
>> I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective 
>> knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.
>>
>> Any thoughts or tips?
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Adam
>>
>

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[RBW] Weird (Silver bar end/friction/Shimano 9sp) shifting issue

[Adam Smith]

Hi everyone,

I am enjoying my brand spanking new Joe Appaloosa built up by Rivendell. 
Had it for about 6 weeks or so, I have put maybe 75 miles or so on it, most 
of them from the Nutmeg Nor'easter ride a couple of weekends ago, which was 
a wonderful 40 mile ride, Joe's maiden voyage I'd say.

Yesterday I was going for a short 6 mile ride and noticed that rear 
shifting was weird. I was able to shift from largest to next largest cog of 
the cassette, no problem, but as soon as I'd try to shift to the next 
largest cog (3rd from largest), it's as though the shifter took over and 
would shift all the way to the smallest cog. I'd then try to shift up one 
cog, but the shifter was resistant to light force, the amount of force that 
would typically shift up a gear.. If I tried to shift all the way back to 
the largest cog this would work. I have a triple up front, I tested out 
rear shifting in each of the front positions with the same results each 
time.

I searched this group and the internet a bit, and it doesn't seem like 
ghost shifting exactly, it's not skipping or shifting a single gear on its 
own. It is ghost-like though in that it is shifting from 3rd largest all 
the way to the smallest cog on its own. I'm unsure if this is a Silver 
shifter issue (tighten the bolt?) or a derailleur issue (adjust some 
things).

I plan to call Rivendell this week, but figured I'd tap the collective 
knowledge and experience of this group in the meantime.

Any thoughts or tips?

Thanks!

Adam

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[RBW] Re: Night riding

[Adam]

Thanks for all the thoughts everyone.

Yes Bones, this is exactly the sort of thing I've been expecting to happen 
to me! Based on what other folks are suggesting--and this story--I feel 
like the smart thing to do is to chill out a bit as far as my pace at night 
goes. I think I've been pushing it a bit too fast and losing track of how 
nice it is to cruise around after dark.

I agree about the quiet and dark being fun. I'm still wanting to try some 
trail riding at night, may do that soonish. If anyone has advice on that 
front, I'm interested to hear it.

I also appreciate the suggestion of night groups rides with a destination. 
I always ride solo and tend to not want to plan things, but it seems like a 
fun thing to do, especially in the winter.

Adam

On Tuesday, November 9, 2021 at 11:04:43 PM UTC-6 Bones wrote:

> I too commute year-round and I ride primarily at night. I work evenings 
> and nights and commute via bicycle, and I've been doing so for about ten 
> years so I'll add some safety tips. I took a pretty nasty midnight spill 
> back in May. I took a right hand turn a bit too close to the curb and could 
> not see the thin layer of gravel/sand on the street. It was pitch black, no 
> cars around, I had a dynamo on the bike, and I was traveling at about 
> 15mph. Still didn't see it. The bike went out from under me and I skid 
> about 15ft. So lesson number one was to slow down on the turns and take 'em 
> wide. The bike was almost completely unharmed, except for a minor scuff to 
> the left grip and a lovely new red paint job, courtesy of my palms. Plenty 
> of bruising and scrapes but mostly on my hands, which I suppose 
> instinctively did their job. I went back the next day to collect the pieces 
> of my apple watch, which did a fantastic job protecting my wrist. That was 
> lesson number two: always wear gloves. After I got up and realized how bad 
> it was I reached into my BananaSax and pulled out a bandana, which made a 
> great tourniquet. I wish I had packed two though, as both palms were in 
> very bad shape. Lesson number three: always pack a few bandanas.
>
> I'm not adding this to discourage anyone from riding at night, I just hope 
> other folks can learn from my mistakes. I love riding at night, especially 
> late. Few cars, no sounds... it's a whole different world. Like Roberta 
> stated: very stress relieving and soothing. *Especially* after work.
>
> Bones
>
> On Tuesday, November 9, 2021 at 5:35:57 AM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> I like to separate the arms race of lumens and reflective area on my 
>> night rides. They are slower, tend to last longer if I'm not on a to-bed 
>> schedule for early wake up. Not so concerning after this weekend. I was at 
>> the dog park with my pup and before I really took note of the sunset. 64° 
>> was headed for the 40°s under the clear skies and I was in shorts, T-shirt 
>> and a shell.
>>
>> I've reported on night rides around here before, where there are 
>> definitely two cultures of dark riding. One that starts around the corner 
>> from my house has been more of a Dirty Dozen Bike Race 
>> <https://youtu.be/Mb6KnHV7Tqc> training ride and has been running three 
>> sadomasochistic hours and thirty miles weekly. The other began with my 
>> friend and me after the regular riding season meeting at that coffee shop 
>> ended in October. We meander, we invite new to the dark riders, we go 
>> places the high tempo riders skip for better paces and miles while they 
>> train for the Dirty Dozen bike Race originated by ultra rider Danny Chew. 
>> They all tend to be on their road racing bikes with battery lights. I have 
>> evolved (over 25? years) to dyno hubs, wired LED head and taillights, 
>> carrying a rechargeable set to back others up in case of a fail. Don't like 
>> phantom bikes around me unless we're clustering around a rider who's 
>> batteries died. A few of us continue into the bad weather, be it wet or 
>> cold. It adds to the challenging character of night riding. Headlights 
>> redefine a place you ride in the daylight, focussing on what's important 
>> and redefining all else. 
>>
>> I like to include photo stops, curious passageways, local sights and 
>> surprising connections. Food and drink often involved. Too hard for new 
>> initiates to dark riding to grasp the fast cool of darkness mentioned by 
>> Denis in NC and adequately provide for full spectrum physical output so we 
>> try not to get too sweat soaked at any point although everyone's experience 
>> (effort/perspiration) will vary on any given hill so accommodation is my 
>> byword. I like to have a big enough bag on my bike to carry extra layers 
>> ("normalizing" items

[RBW] Night riding

[Adam]

I tried to post this yesterday, but it doesn't seem to have popped up.

It's the time of year for riding at night. (??) I'd like to hear other 
folks' strategies and recommendations for fun rides at night.

My rides at night have mostly been 15-20 mile road rides, fairly fast. The 
main problem I've had is relaxing, especially at higher speeds with the 
reduced visibility. I've been curious about trail riding but haven't tried 
it.

thoughts? I'm not buying dynamos right now, but have adequate lights, 
backups, vest, etc. I'm mostly looking for ride ideas, things not to do, 
things that are more fun than they sound, etc.

Thanks

Adam


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[RBW] Re: FS-ish Rivelo Hat Collection

[Adam]

As someone with way more than one head - sending a PM to poster.

Though I need to verify size first.

Adam

On Monday, November 8, 2021 at 4:37:04 PM UTC-6 Karl wrote:

> Further realizing I will never have more than one noggin. Therefore, I am 
> downsizing hats! I have a few Randi Jo (Best cycling hats in the WORLD) 
> hats from Rivelo (Still miss John and Darby's shop!) I'll send to someone 
> and when you get them, just PayPal me whatever you think they are worth or 
> what you can afford. I will put some other fun head coverings in the box 
> while I am at it. Please reply here and send a PM... Once someone has 
> claimed, disregard this post. 
>
> Karl (ole One Noggin)
> Nashville, TN
> [image: IMG_8996.jpeg]
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Riv Pants

[Adam Moss]

Sold. Thanks for all the interest.


On Monday, November 1, 2021 at 10:24:08 AM UTC-7 Adam Moss wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> Size small Riv Pants (latest iteration) like new for $40 plus shipping 
> from Berkeley. 
>
> Thanks!
> Adam
>

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[RBW] FT/FS: Cazadero 700/42

[Adam]

Hi all,

I'm looking to trade--or sell--some lightly used 700/42 Cazaderos. Probably 
ridden between 200-300 miles, good condition.

I'd trade for something that's around 50mm,  such as any of the G-ones (I 
haven't sorted through the different versions), 50mm Cazaderos, or 
something less knobby. whatever really, I want to try something new.

$80 for the pair + shipping if you'd like to buy them.

Thanks


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[RBW] WTB: 59 Roadeo or 57 Roadini (complete, ideally)

[Adam Kimball]

Just wanted to (re)post - I am looking for a very clean 59cm Roadeo or 57 
Roadini.  Given the low inventory of bikes, I know parting with one 
wouldn't be easy but I'd try to make it worth it for you.  Let me know what 
you have.

Thanks,
Adam

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[RBW] Re: School me on RH tires for my Sam

[Adam]

It seems like most folks are happy with Barlow Pass & fenders, which is 
what I have (with 559s), and that's a great combo. Without fenders I'd go 
larger, probably the Snoqualmie Pass unless the Oracle Ridge fits w/o 
fenders?

I've considered trying to squeeze the Snoqualmies - which are around 40mm 
for me too - under VO zepplin 52 fenders. Has anyone tried this? I think 
the challenge would be the 559 front brake's squeeze when open, which would 
be a non issue on the OP's Racers, I guess? If anyone's successfully done 
this, or some other combo of Snoqualmie pass and fenders, I'd like to hear 
about it.

Adam



On Monday, September 13, 2021 at 5:14:18 PM UTC-5 Nick Payne wrote:

> My Barlow Pass measure 40mm after several months use, mounted on 22mm 
> internal width rims (Light Bicycle AR28 disc rims).
>
> Nick
>
> On Tuesday, 14 September 2021 at 6:50:05 am UTC+10 cycli...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Wow Collin, you're getting 41mm on the Barlows?  I get 40mm on the 
>> Snoqualmie Pass when mounted on Velocity Dyads and 42mm when mounted on 
>> Quills.  The Barlows mounted on Dyads measured 35mm, if I remember 
>> correctly.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil on its Archetypal Route (loads of photos)

[Adam]

Sorry to hear about the fender mishap.

I'm running 2.1 knobbies under Tanaka 68mm fenders with the PDW safety 
tabs. I'm curious if anyone's had incidents with the safety tab setup? I 
caught a bit of stuff in the front wheel a few weeks ago and the tabs 
released, the wheel didn't lock, and I was fine. That made me feel better, 
but I'm still totally ready to abandon the combination.

I tried no fenders for a bit but just couldn't deal with the amount of mess 
after every ride.

Keeping the front wheel off the ground is definitely an elegant solution.

Adam

On Saturday, August 28, 2021 at 3:20:09 PM UTC-5 Bikie#4646 wrote:

> Jason, 
>
> Sorry about your fender incident. As someone else said, those PDW Safety 
> Tabs will help you regain your confidence. I've been using them for about 6 
> years. Though I haven't gotten a stick or rock caught while riding, I once 
> dropped the front of the bike onto the rear of the front fender with the 
> wheel removed while loading it into the van. 
>
> The safety tab worked just as it should and I was able to pop it back into 
> place, no harm done.
>
> Paul Germain
> Midlothian, Va.
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Jason Fuller 
> To: RBW Owners Bunch 
> Sent: Sat, Aug 28, 2021 1:56 am
> Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Bombadil on its Archetypal Route (loads of photos)
>
> ...and here's some photos from the ride that ultimately ended in fender 
> ruinage and full body aches. 
>
> On Friday, 27 August 2021 at 22:36:45 UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> Ever since I had the stick wedged in the front fender situation, which 
> tossed me over the bars and made me realize I'm not as young as I once was, 
> I haven't been willing to let the front wheel touch the ground.  I figure 
> this avoids the problem entirely.  
>
> (No new front fender yet - maybe this'll be a fenderless bike for a bit?  
> Unclear. One thing's for sure: I keep riding it)
>
> [image: signal-2021-08-27-124701.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, 13 July 2021 at 22:17:49 UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> Cheers Eric!  In the spirit, here are a few photos from this past Sunday's 
> trip up the Seymour valley.  I have a few new parts collected to install on 
> the Bombadil, and an Albatross bar in the mail which I think will do the 
> trick - kind of wish I bought both it and the Choco just to try, but alas, 
> I have too many handlebars as it is.  Going to swap off the knobby 
> Ultradynamico for the slicker Cava's as well
>
>
>
> On Saturday, 26 June 2021 at 19:25:48 UTC-7 ericf3 wrote:
>
> Jason,
>
> you inspire me (I hope) --I used to be on the north shore on a bike 
> weekly, pre-pandemic. But I have only biked past Burrard Inlet a couple of 
> times since then. I really 
> hope I can get back into the habit once public health protocols allow it.
>
> Meanwhile, I am hoping the oppressive heat leaves us soon...ugghh
>
> EricF
> Vancouver BC
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Brevets on Rivs -- 2021 Dillon Beach 200k

[Adam]

Thanks for the thoughts on food/drink from everyone. No need to sidetrack 
the thread, but Bill's list of food made me curious what folks are doing.

I will incorporate more ice cream sandwiches

Adam
On Tuesday, August 17, 2021 at 2:28:27 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Toshi
>
> I will look for you.  I've got the Legolas in the stand right now to 
> switch to Bon Jon Pass Extralights, but my perverse contrarian impulse is 
> to leave the 700x38 knobby Steilacooms on there.  A road brevet on 
> knobbies!  That's audacious!  They are even *standard casing*.  I already 
> did two road brevets this year on 29er mountain bike race tires, despite 
> the fact that people finger wagged at me that I would hate myself for the 
> unnecessary suffering.  The other thing I like about fast knobbies is that 
> it seems they are far more puncture resistant.  There are two reasons for 
> this:
>
> 1. When I was a small boy, and my dad helped coach our youth soccer team, 
> he used to call my soccer cleats "Ants got a chance" shoes.  Block knobbies 
> like the Steilacoom seem to me that in order to pick up a piece of glass, 
> you have to roll over it AND hit it with a knob.  Some glass you'll hit the 
> glass with the gap between knobs and you won't pick it up.  
> 2. Even if you do pick up a piece of glass in a knob, it'll take a while 
> to hammer it in.  The rubber at the knob is quite thick.  If the piece of 
> glass is small, you'll never punch through.  If the piece of glass is big 
> enough that it could punch through, you may hear the tick-tick and wipe it 
> off with the palm of the glove.   
>
> I'll probably put the road tires on, just to avoid the side-eye from the 
> roadies.  :)
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, August 16, 2021 at 3:25:39 PM UTC-7 ttoshi wrote:
>
>> Hi Adam,
>>
>> --Regarding longer ride nutrition, I like to use Hammer Perpetuem.  I 
>> currently make a homemade version, but it is maltodextrin with some soy 
>> protein and fat (lecithin).  I add a lot of scoops like 5-6 in one of my 
>> water bottles--it has a shake-like consistency-- and it will fuel me for 
>> 60-70 miles.  I bring extra packets in ziploc bags to refill, but depending 
>> upon heat and pace, I may not stomach them.  You'll need to learn what 
>> sounds and feels tasty to you on the later stages of a ride.  I love V8 
>> drinks for the salt/potassium, soups, bread, nuts and fruit do well with 
>> me, but you'll need to find out what works for you.
>>
>> --Bill, I'll probably see you on the Santa Cruz 200k in September.  I'll 
>> probably ride my Roadeo.  Maybe I'll see you on your Legolas!
>>
>> Toshi
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Aug 16, 2021 at 8:48 AM Adam  wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the report.
>>>
>>> I'm curious to hear about your and others' nutrition strategies. I've 
>>> not ridden a 200k yet but plan to soon. On rides longer than 100k or so, I 
>>> find that I need eat way more than you describe. I totally over ate on a 
>>> century a few months ago and got a bit sick post ride(no more pizza!) Since 
>>> then I've not had time to do another century, but on 50-70 mile rides I've 
>>> been trying to snack throughout the ride, esp early, and that works for me.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions from folks when doing rides long enough to require a 
>>> meal?
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 16, 2021 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> Yesterday was brevet day, and it was my 29th career 200k brevet, but my 
>>>> first on a "road bike".  From the start I've always had one or more "rando 
>>>> builds" from which to choose, and so I've always ridden one of those 
>>>> machines.  I always had mixed feelings towards those randos who strap a 
>>>> bunch of afterthought bags to their carbon road bikes.  Are they cheating 
>>>> on a race bike?  Will they be suffering because of their skinny tires?  
>>>> This time, with the weather warm, the pavement decent, and the course not 
>>>> too hilly, I decided to give the whole road bike brevet thing a try.  
>>>>
>>>> The field was tiny, allegedly 8 riders.  I only saw five of them at the 
>>>> start; the Escape From Alcatraz Race occupied the parking lot where we 
>>>> intended to start and the volunteer who takes the sign ins couldn't get 
>>>> there in his car.  The six of us were prepared to collect EPP (Electronic 
>>>> Proof of Passage) and started our GPS units and headed out.  Bless his 
>>>> heart the 

[RBW] Re: Brevets on Rivs -- 2021 Dillon Beach 200k

[Adam]

Thanks for the report.

I'm curious to hear about your and others' nutrition strategies. I've not 
ridden a 200k yet but plan to soon. On rides longer than 100k or so, I find 
that I need eat way more than you describe. I totally over ate on a century 
a few months ago and got a bit sick post ride(no more pizza!) Since then 
I've not had time to do another century, but on 50-70 mile rides I've been 
trying to snack throughout the ride, esp early, and that works for me.

Any suggestions from folks when doing rides long enough to require a meal?

Adam

On Monday, August 16, 2021 at 9:10:25 AM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Yesterday was brevet day, and it was my 29th career 200k brevet, but my 
> first on a "road bike".  From the start I've always had one or more "rando 
> builds" from which to choose, and so I've always ridden one of those 
> machines.  I always had mixed feelings towards those randos who strap a 
> bunch of afterthought bags to their carbon road bikes.  Are they cheating 
> on a race bike?  Will they be suffering because of their skinny tires?  
> This time, with the weather warm, the pavement decent, and the course not 
> too hilly, I decided to give the whole road bike brevet thing a try.  
>
> The field was tiny, allegedly 8 riders.  I only saw five of them at the 
> start; the Escape From Alcatraz Race occupied the parking lot where we 
> intended to start and the volunteer who takes the sign ins couldn't get 
> there in his car.  The six of us were prepared to collect EPP (Electronic 
> Proof of Passage) and started our GPS units and headed out.  Bless his 
> heart the start control volunteer later found me on the route and took my 
> signature there, explaining I wouldn't get credit without having signed the 
> waiver.  
>
> The weather was in the mid 50s and foggy at the start as we crossed the 
> Golden Gate Bridge.  The cross winds that would continue all day were very 
> light in the morning and would be far stronger in the afternoon, which was 
> advantageous.  The course headed mainly into a headwind while the winds 
> were weak and returned with a tailwind while the winds strengthened.  I did 
> most of the ride solo, and I believe I was probably the second finisher.  
> One rider who went out fast on the first climb of the day, I passed buying 
> mangoes at a fruitstand late in the afternoon.  One rider who blew past me 
> was on a current A Homer Hilsen, and he cheerfully said "Nice Bike!" as his 
> youthful strong legs propelled him down the road.  
>
> My early vintage Roadeo did exceedingly well.  I had a slight panic when I 
> realized that I did not pack gloves, so it was also my first barehanded 
> 200k.  The only inconvenience that ended up causing was it give me another 
> place to apply sunscreen, and with no gloves my slick sunscreened fingers 
> were a little bit slippy on my shellacked bar tape and hoods.  Overall not 
> a big problem.  
>
> From a handling and comfort perspective, the bike was exceptional.  My 
> back, arms and shoulders felt great all day.  Mechanically the bike was 
> perfect.  I don't think I ever needed to use my lowest gear, despite some 
> steep pitches.  I went out pretty fast in the first half but backed off a 
> little on the wind-aided return when I noticed the smell of wildfire smoke 
> in the air.  It was nowhere near the worst I've seen, and the consistent 
> west to east crosswinds certainly helped clean things out for this coastal 
> route.  I finished the 127 miles, 7300ft of climbing in 9:22 actual, 8:37 
> moving.  Anything under 10 hours is quick for me.  
>
> As per usual, the only things I would change about a Roadeo to make it an 
> even more perfect brevet bike would have been a tiny bit wider tires.  I'm 
> running 700x32 Stampede Pass Extralights, and would have loved to enjoy 35s 
> or 38s.  I still think a semi-custom Roadeo with cantilever brakes and a 
> tiny bit wider clearances would be tremendous.  I'll test that theory by 
> doing my next brevet on my Legolas with 700x35 Bon Jon Pass Extralights, in 
> September.  With the skinny tires, I did notice the bumps, particularly at 
> the end of the day, and my tush was definitely a bit sore with my firm 
> Fizik Arione racing saddle.  It also made me think about those forgotten 
> gloves...  
>
> For a warm weathered, unfendered 200k setup without lighting, I used my 
> Ruthworks Storm Series brevet bag and seat wedge, which provided ample 
> capacity.  Highly recommended bags if you want to 'rando-up' a stripped 
> down bike.  
>
> For nutrition, I carried three Lara Bars and one Nature Valley granola 
> bar.  I had the crunchy granola bar first for "breakfast".  On the course I 
> bought a small cheese twist bread thing in Tomales when 

Re: [RBW] Re: WTB: Roadeo or Roadini 58 to 61 or so

[Adam Kimball]

Quick correction - Looking for a 57 Roadini.  I didn't realize how much 
upslope the top tube has.  A 61 Roadeo would still interest me though!

Thanks,
Adam

On Thursday, August 5, 2021 at 9:09:02 PM UTC-6 Adam Kimball wrote:

> Ideally a complete.  And ideally orange.
>
> -Adam
>
>
> On Aug 5, 2021, at 5:59 PM, Johnny Alien  wrote:
>
> The orange is the fastest one.
>
> On Thursday, August 5, 2021 at 7:27:04 PM UTC-4 Jingy wrote:
>
>> Are you looking for a complete or a frameset?
>> I have a 61 Orange Roadini that I have been seriously considering moving 
>> along.
>> Jim in Mpls
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, August 4, 2021 at 10:46:19 PM UTC-5 Adam Kimball wrote:
>>
>>> Title says it all and I know it's a bit of a long shot. But if you have a
>>>  *clean* bike somewhere between 58-61cm, let me know.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>> Adam
>>>
>>
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[RBW] WTB: Roadeo or Roadini 58 to 61 or so

[Adam Kimball]

Title says it all and I know it's a bit of a long shot. But if you have a 
*clean* bike somewhere between 58-61cm, let me know.

Thanks!
Adam

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[RBW] WTB Nitto 35F Front Rack

[Adam]

Hello all,

I'm looking for a Nitto 35F,  the high rider front rack. They were on sale 
for $99 at Soma a while back, but I missed it.

Anyone have one they want to move along?

Thanks

Adam

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[RBW] Re: Correct Nitto rear rack size?

[Adam Smith]

I don't have experience with either rack or bike, but wanted to share info 
I happened to read on Riv's website 

 
the other day. Hopefully it helps:





*Two versions:Medium 32R, for frames up to about 54cm.  Platform is 34.3cm 
x 13cm.Large 33R, for frames bigger than that.
Platform
 
is 35cm x 13cm.*

*Both work with 700c, 650B, 26" wheels. To know for sure what size is best, 
measure straight up from your rear dropout eyelet to the top of the wheel. 
If you get anything greater than 325mm (13") get the Large one. Otherwise, 
the Medium will fit best.*

On Friday, July 23, 2021 at 3:36:29 PM UTC-4 gpgun...@aol.com wrote:

> Hello All
>
> I would greatly appreciate it if anyone can tell me the correct Nitto rear 
> rack size (32R/33R) for a Toyo built 56cm H/Hilsen with 650B wheels. 
> Initially , I was thinking large (33R) but now I am just not sure. The 
> older Toyo built Hilsen frame geometry has me questioning the optimal size. 
> Again, much appreciated.
>
> Cheers
>
> Gunner
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 2021 Appaloosa thread

[Adam Smith]

Hi all, I'm new around here. I've been lurking ever since I managed to snag 
a 60cm orange Appaloosa frame from Rivendell back in June, which was 
somewhat of a pandemic impulse purchase. I've wanted a Rivendell for years, 
but had no real intention of buying a bike this year...until I saw the 
email from Riv. I'm beyond thrilled and so excited to finally own a 
Rivendell!

So now Riv is waiting for me to make up my mind on components so they can 
build it for me. I might be overthinking things a bit. Help!

I'm stuck on what gearing and shifting to go with... 

Since I have a 1x11 on my 29er+ and I have 3x9 gearing on my roadie bike, I 
was leaning towards 2x10 on this one to try something new and it seems to 
give me the about right range for this "I'm not sure where I'm gonna ride 
this bike exactly, probably here, probably there, maybe over there" bike. I 
live in the Catskills, NY, so there's definitely lotsa hills, plenty of 
country back roads, some gravel and dirt roads for sure, trails too. I 
might take her bike camping, why not. Or maybe classic 3x9 gearing for the 
widest range possible and I'm so undecided. I'm happy to go with the Silver 
brand cranks, but do I need a chain guard. Ooh, those White Industries 
cranks are beautiful, but I don't need that. But maybe I do?

I've never tried friction shifting, so I wanna try it out. Was leaning 
towards just going with the Silver bar-end shifters and call it a day. Oh, 
but the Dura ace bar-end shifters provide both indexed and friction, at 
least for the 9sp shifters. Indexed only for the 10sp shifters, I think. 
That could be a way to try out friction, but have indexed mode if it ain't 
for me.

All else is decided, just hemming and hawing over these two last details.

Thoughts?

Take care, and happy to have found this forum!

Adam

On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 8:25:50 PM UTC-4 esoter...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> Thanks for the compliment JS! It's a 56cm with 650b wheels. Such a 
> fantastic bike. Cheers,
>
> ~Mark
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
> On Jul 21, 2021, at 09:34, J Schwartz  wrote:
>
> I think that's one of the nicest set-up MIT Atlantis' I've seen.  Is that 
> a 56 or 53?
>
> JS
>
> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 8:59:12 AM UTC-4 esoter...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Kushan,
>>
>> Zefal makes plastic pump pegs that you can secure around any tube on your 
>> bike. I'm using one on my Atlantis to hold a Zefal pump and it works great 
>> (mine's an FPX , not an HPX, but they fit the pegs just the same). I've got 
>> an extra one if you'd like, let's say $10 shipped. PM me if you're 
>> interested. Cheers,
>>
>> ~Mark
>> Raleigh, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jul 21, 2021, at 07:45, Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>> Rad bike, Kushan, and congrats! 
>>
>>
>> I don't have any experience hacking an HPX4 but maybe you could add some 
>> felt washers to the piston between the handle and the main frame body to 
>> effectively add to the overall length of the pump when compressed. 
>>
>> https://www.mcmaster.com/felt-washers/
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 21, 2021 at 1:43:24 AM UTC-4 Kushan wrote:
>>
>>> P.S. It turns out that my frame pump, Zefal HPX4, is a tad too short for 
>>> 60 cm Appa (although it fits fine on 61 Roadini). To my knowledge, HPX4 is 
>>> the largest size pump Zefal makes. If anyone has recommendations on larger 
>>> frame pump (or hacks on how to make HPX4 work), please let me know. It's a 
>>> bummer because I just got this one a few weeks ago.
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, July 20, 2021 at 10:41:24 PM UTC-7 Kushan wrote:
>>>
>>>> After a few weeks of obsessively checking, finally got a note from Will 
>>>> that it's ready. Picked up my 60 cm Appaloosa arrived today. I took it for 
>>>> a quick 10 mile spin on local paved trail and ride quality has exceeded 
>>>> expectations. It is joyfully upright (Albatross bars), planted, and climbs 
>>>> well. It makes me want to just keep pedaling and forget about things like 
>>>> speed, heart rate, and strava. 
>>>>
>>>> Here are some pictures 
>>>> <https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qmhSAPdLch7t-MnDHg_FrrF-rUcY6M8T?usp=sharin>
>>>> On Saturday, July 3, 2021 at 5:46:50 AM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Thanks all for posting pictures of your Appaloosa builds. It has 
>>>>> inspired me to hang on to mine and give it more love. Question for those 
>>>>> of 
>>>>> you running wider tires (2.25) How much mud clearance does it leave when 
>>>>> riding a tire of that size. I am thinking about upgrading from 2.0 WTB 

[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto 34f front rack

[Adam]

Thanks Jeff for the image.

Definitely will hit the adjustment knob, unless there's another way to set 
it up with spacers or something.

Thanks for the info, but unless anyone knows a way to mount it, I will have 
to pass.

Thanks

Adam

On Tuesday, July 20, 2021 at 6:37:43 PM UTC-4 jeffbog...@hotmail.com wrote:

> pm with image sent
>
> On Tuesday, 20 July 2021 at 15:11:43 UTC-5 Adam wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have experience mounting this on a bike with disc brakes? 
>> (Bb7)
>>
>> Looking at the images, it's hard to tell if the section that angles out 
>> from the dropout towards the mid-fork will hit the brake adjustment knob or 
>> not. Definitely close.
>>
>> I'd buy this if I thought it could be swapped between my Hillborne and my 
>> disc bike.
>>
>> OP, if you want to try to sort this out with some measurements, let me 
>> know.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Adam
>> On Thursday, July 15, 2021 at 8:54:17 PM UTC-4 jeffbog...@hotmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Asking $125. Please send PM with zip code for interest and I'll work out 
>>> shipping options.
>>>
>>> Jeff
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto 34f front rack

[Adam]

Does anyone have experience mounting this on a bike with disc brakes? (Bb7)

Looking at the images, it's hard to tell if the section that angles out 
from the dropout towards the mid-fork will hit the brake adjustment knob or 
not. Definitely close.

I'd buy this if I thought it could be swapped between my Hillborne and my 
disc bike.

OP, if you want to try to sort this out with some measurements, let me know.

Thanks

Adam
On Thursday, July 15, 2021 at 8:54:17 PM UTC-4 jeffbog...@hotmail.com wrote:

> Asking $125. Please send PM with zip code for interest and I'll work out 
> shipping options.
>
> Jeff
>

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[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Appaloosa?

[Adam Smith]

Hi all,

I've been lurking for a few weeks. I'm reading this thread with great 
interest as I managed to snag one of the orange Appaloosa frames from Riv 
and am now speccing it out so they can build it for me. For the front rack, 
I intend to go the route that Bones has chosen, the 27F Nitto Campee rack 
with the Wald basket, likely the 137.

Bones your bike looks great! Would love to see more photos actually. Is 
that the Wald 137 basket attached to your rack? Question about the Dynamo 
eyelet on the 27F, is the eyelet on the right side only? And I assume I 
would need the Nitto lamp holder to attach the light to the rack, correct? 
(hopefully this question didn't detract from the focus of this thread)

Take care,

Adam



On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 10:41:39 AM UTC-4 antc...@gmail.com wrote:

> Bones, that 27 looks great! My only qualms would be that it puts the 
> weight farther forward than a Mark's or 32f. I'm running a Mark's on a 
> different bike and actually drilled a hole in the diving board so I could 
> sit it as far back as possible. I'm a bit anal about the weigh being as low 
> and central as possible. I love the looks of your set up though, very clean!
>
> On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 9:25:27 AM UTC-5 Bones wrote:
>
>> I settled on the 27F for my Appaloosa:
>>
>>- Not nearly as bulky as the 34F
>>- Much stronger than the 32F
>>- Has four mounting points (I used the mid fork and dropout 
>>braze-ons, no brake interference)
>>- Can support a wald medium or large (without looking weird), or even 
>>just a trunksack
>>- Detachable pannier mounts (and looks pretty minimal without them)
>>- Dynamo eyelet
>>
>> If I didn't go with this I'd probably be looking into a Pass and Stow 
>> rack.
>>
>> Bones
>>
>> [image: 27f.jpg]
>> On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 9:22:05 AM UTC-4 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> This discussion is useful.
>>>
>>> I'm curious if anyone has tried the VLC Rockit rack? It looks like it 
>>> might be something in between the various Nitto options. I can't tell how 
>>> well it might work with panniers.
>>>
>>> I'm also curious about the Rawland options. (With an additional 
>>> low-rider)
>>>
>>> On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 2:35:07 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:
>>>
>>>> The 34f is a lot of rack. The 32f isn't enough rack for a basket with 
>>>> any kind of load in it. Not even because of the weight. The wald basket 
>>>> allows a small weight to put a torque on the rack that it isn't designed 
>>>> to 
>>>> take and Nitto says specifically not to do it. The Marks rack is actually 
>>>> stronger in this application. Nitto still says don't do it but in my (and 
>>>> everyone else with a marks rack + wald 137) experience it's fine.
>>>>
>>>> I have run a 34f mounted on my appaloosa using the supplied P clamps 
>>>> flattened out into a bracket that screwed directly to the middle fork 
>>>> brazeons. Very sturdy.
>>>> If looks matter a 137 looks weird mounted to it. Mounted longitudinally 
>>>> and the weight is too far forward and mounted normally the rack sticks 
>>>> too far out and looks awkward. Mind you a 139 would fix this aesthetic 
>>>> issue and give you huge capacity. However Rivs don't handle great with 
>>>> lots 
>>>> of front weight, in general.
>>>>
>>>> Can post a photo of the bracket hack if you are interested. Any bit of 
>>>> flat aluminium with holes drilled would also work. Probably still can't 
>>>> recommend the 34f though, Unless you* need* it.
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, 15 July 2021 at 10:20:32 UTC+8 Ed Carolipio wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I ran the Mark's rack on the Appaloosa with four stays (the rear stays 
>>>>> mounted on the top of the fork), no diving board, wide canti brakes 
>>>>> (Tektro 
>>>>> CR 720), and a regular Wald. (Not sure if the Mark's will work with a 
>>>>> V-brake in that configuration.) For extra hauling, I would tack on a 
>>>>> Nitto 
>>>>> hub area rack with both racks sharing the mid fork braze on. That was my 
>>>>> preferred setup because it gave me flexibility, and no configuration 
>>>>> under 
>>>>> load affected handling with the Albatross bars and 90mm stem I was 
>>>>> running.
>>>>>
>>>>> I tried running a Nitto R14 with a "big" basket but that put too much 
>>>>> weight forwar

[RBW] Re: Best front rack for Appaloosa?

[Adam]

This discussion is useful.

I'm curious if anyone has tried the VLC Rockit rack? It looks like it might 
be something in between the various Nitto options. I can't tell how well it 
might work with panniers.

I'm also curious about the Rawland options. (With an additional low-rider)

On Friday, July 16, 2021 at 2:35:07 AM UTC-4 brendonoid wrote:

> The 34f is a lot of rack. The 32f isn't enough rack for a basket with any 
> kind of load in it. Not even because of the weight. The wald basket allows 
> a small weight to put a torque on the rack that it isn't designed to take 
> and Nitto says specifically not to do it. The Marks rack is actually 
> stronger in this application. Nitto still says don't do it but in my (and 
> everyone else with a marks rack + wald 137) experience it's fine.
>
> I have run a 34f mounted on my appaloosa using the supplied P clamps 
> flattened out into a bracket that screwed directly to the middle fork 
> brazeons. Very sturdy.
> If looks matter a 137 looks weird mounted to it. Mounted longitudinally 
> and the weight is too far forward and mounted normally the rack sticks 
> too far out and looks awkward. Mind you a 139 would fix this aesthetic 
> issue and give you huge capacity. However Rivs don't handle great with lots 
> of front weight, in general.
>
> Can post a photo of the bracket hack if you are interested. Any bit of 
> flat aluminium with holes drilled would also work. Probably still can't 
> recommend the 34f though, Unless you* need* it.
>
> On Thursday, 15 July 2021 at 10:20:32 UTC+8 Ed Carolipio wrote:
>
>> I ran the Mark's rack on the Appaloosa with four stays (the rear stays 
>> mounted on the top of the fork), no diving board, wide canti brakes (Tektro 
>> CR 720), and a regular Wald. (Not sure if the Mark's will work with a 
>> V-brake in that configuration.) For extra hauling, I would tack on a Nitto 
>> hub area rack with both racks sharing the mid fork braze on. That was my 
>> preferred setup because it gave me flexibility, and no configuration under 
>> load affected handling with the Albatross bars and 90mm stem I was running.
>>
>> I tried running a Nitto R14 with a "big" basket but that put too much 
>> weight forward of the hub. I wouldn't have run the 32F for that reason, nor 
>> the Surly Big Front.
>>
>> --Ed C.
>> On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 6:05:38 PM UTC-7 Tim Bantham wrote:
>>
>>> On my Appaloosa I've had a Mark's rack and the Nitto big front rack. The 
>>> Mark's rack which is similar to the 32F is a good rack. Light but the 
>>> weight limit is on the lower end. I use a Wald basket and tend to load it 
>>> up when camping. I didn't like the Nitto Big Front rack. In fact, I took it 
>>> off only after a few rides. I hated the way the bike felt with it on there. 
>>> It felt like steering a big yacht. The Big Front is also extremely heavy. 
>>> If loading your bike up with big mondo panniers is your thing then the Big 
>>> Front is the rack to get. Didn't work for me at all.  I ended up going with 
>>> the Obento Rack by Sim Works. It's a beautiful rack. A step up from the 
>>> Mark's in my opinion. I am pretty sure that Nitto makes these racks for Sim 
>>> Works as well. The weight limit on these are 14 lbs while the Mark's is 
>>> only 4lbs. I would check out the Obento rack if you can find one. 
>>>
>>> Tim
>>> On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 6:44:07 PM UTC-4 antc...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 Looking for feedback on what front racks people are using or have used 
 on their Appaloosa. I am leaning towards a 32F for two reasons; I like 
 that 
 I can throw on a big Wald basket and I don't have to worry about 
 overloading it, plus I can attach a dynamo light to the front and lessen 
 my 
 wheel shadow. The only thing that makes me hesitant is all the pictures I 
 have seen (mostly from Blue Lug) show the 34F attached with P-clamps on 
 the 
 fork blades. Has anyone had luck attaching it to the upper fork braze-on?

 Alternatively I could maybe go with the Surly Big Front Rack. It has a 
 similar center front light attachment, plus more adjustability in 
 mounting. 
 I just really love the finish of Nitto's racks though. 

 My hope was to use a Nitto 32F that I have on hand but the fork crown 
 mount does not play with V-brakes. So now that I'm in the market for a new 
 rack I thought I might as well get one that is even more functional. 
 Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and experiences.

 Thanks,
 Anthony in St Louis

>>>

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[RBW] Re: Dia compe knob grip?

[Adam]

I'm just resurrecting this thread to see if anyone knows of a U.S. source 
for the 22.2mm clamp version of these dia compe knob grips?

I see the larger ones at the SOMA site. SJS has the smaller, correct size 
but with a crazy shipping fee from the UK.

If anyone knows where to get them, or have some around they want to sell, 
I'm looking.

Adam

On Monday, August 29, 2016 at 10:02:27 PM UTC-4 Bill in Roswell GA wrote:

> Evan, what is your bike? Always curious as to what everyone is riding. 
>
> Cheers,
> Bill in Roswell, GA
>
>
> On Friday, September 19, 2014 at 5:27:45 PM UTC-4, Evan Baird wrote:
>>
>> Have em. Love em.
>>
>>
>> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rdM2kf2ThHc/VByfzLyGWUI/V9M/GuHo0HyzkDg/s1600/14899910109_1aa23013cb_z%2B%281%29.jpg>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Question about shim when swapping Albatross for Billie

[Adam]

A somewhat related shim question.

On the Analog Cycles site on shims, they mention not using them with 
Boscos. I'm assuming this is a leverage thing?

I'm currently using shims on a threadless non-Riv to get from 31.8 to 25.4 
using Boscos. I've recently been riding that setup more off-road and been 
wondering if I should swap out the stem to avoid the shims. Has anyone had 
experience with shims and boscos off-road?

Adam
On Tuesday, June 8, 2021 at 8:17:29 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> I avoid shims unless there is no other option. I will buy another 
> handlebar or stem before using shims. I had no choice on my Riv Custom - 
> Rene Herse Randonneur Bars are only available in 25.4 and Nitto lugged 
> stems are available only in 26.0. I have a Craftsman spreader tool for the 
> stem and it still took me hours to trim the shims and get them in place. 
> The shims were wider than the stem, and in addition, the stem clamp curves 
> - lots of trimming and fitting required. Trimmed shims want to scratch the 
> handlebars. Just rotating the bars in the stem is a major operation, 
> because the shims are trimmed to the stem, but want to rotate with the 
> bars. For my Frank Jones, Sr. I wanted to use my other lugged stem because 
> I wanted to match the lugged Nitto seatpost, so I researched and found 26.0 
> Nitto Maes bend type bars so I didn't have to use shims.
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>
> On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 10:52:31 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> If it's a NITTO stem tell LBS to torque the clamp bolt to 14- 16 Nm or 
>> 120 -140 inch pounds.. Important!!! They should know that.
>> That will ensure it won't creak when pulling on bars or when standing 
>> while pedaling.
>> I always clean shims and bar at contact points with isopropyl alcohol 
>> before assembly.
>> Nothing more annoying than having a squeaky handlebar.
>> Jon
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 7, 2021, 7:56 PM REC  wrote:
>>
>>> Thank you all.
>>> I have two metal shims, so will probably take it to lbs.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 7, 2021, at 9:06 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>>
>>> Email sent to you. I'ma need a close-up pic where the bar goes into the 
>>> stem to be sure what we're dealing with here. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 5:37:35 PM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:
>>>
>>>> Joe,
>>>>
>>>> Are you sure?  Your original response got me dialing my LBS.
>>>>
>>>> Now I'm nervous again.  With Candice and James @analog we tried so many 
>>>> stem/ handlebar combinations and settled on the nice high stem that I 
>>>> purchased while I was there.  I wanted to try the Albas first, so I left 
>>>> with them on the stem.  But, they don't come back far enough.  It looks 
>>>> like metal shims stem with Albatross.  I think the Billies will be 
>>>> perfect, 
>>>> but I don't want to mess up.
>>>>
>>>> Roberta
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 8:26:15 PM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Wait, false alarm. I've seen that bar and stem on your bike, there's a 
>>>>> shim there that comes with the bar and doesn't separate..that section is 
>>>>> the 25.4 measurement. I don't think you have a separate loose shim, your 
>>>>> Billie should slide right in there no problem. 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 4:24:59 PM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm going to swap the Albatross bar for the Billie bar on my Platypus 
>>>>>> tonight (hopefully).  I have a  Nitto XL Technomic 100mm stem and there 
>>>>>> is 
>>>>>> a shim under my Albatross.  Do I reuse the shim for the Billie Bar?  I 
>>>>>> think so.  Will having the shim make it harder for me to do this by 
>>>>>> myself?  If so, I could take this to LBS.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I got this information from Riv's website:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Nitto Albatross, 55cm x 25.4
>>>>>> Nitto Billie Bar 580 x 25.4 (RBW-31)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> This is the biggest job I'll have done myself and don't want to goof. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Well, I'm off to tilt the saddle.  That I know how to do!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>> Roberta
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>> You received this

[RBW] Re: FS: Riv Pants and Zefal Pump

[Adam Moss]

Both sold. Thanks all!

On Monday, May 31, 2021 at 8:46:30 PM UTC-7 Adam Moss wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I have two catch and release items. Pick-up in Berkeley or you'll pay for 
> shipping.
>
> Zefal Pump- no. 4, $20: 
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/zefal-hpx-frame-pump-black
>
> Riv Pants- size small, $40: 
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/clothing/products/musa-pants
>
> Both items in very good/like new condition. Pants only tried on, never 
> ridden in. Thanks all!
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Selle Anatomica H-1

[Adam]

Sold - thanks everyone.


On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 10:18:33 PM UTC-4 Adam wrote:

> one more photo that didn't make the cut in the last message
>
> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 10:17:47 PM UTC-4 Adam wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Ready to sell a saddle that didn't sync up.
>>
>> Selle Anatomica H-1
>> Tool Leather, Copper Rivets
>> $80 + shipping via USPS priority
>>
>> Probably around 300 miles on this, just enough to be sure it wasn't 
>> changing in the right directions to keep it.
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Riv Pants and Zefal Pump

[Adam Moss]

Hey all,

I have two catch and release items. Pick-up in Berkeley or you'll pay for 
shipping.

Zefal Pump- no. 4, 
$20: https://www.rivbike.com/products/zefal-hpx-frame-pump-black

Riv Pants- size small, 
$40: https://www.rivbike.com/collections/clothing/products/musa-pants

Both items in very good/like new condition. Pants only tried on, never 
ridden in. Thanks all!

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[RBW] Cazadero, Snoqualmie Pass comparisons?

[Adam]

Hello all,

I've been comparing the Cazadero 42s to the RH Snoqualmie Pass ELs (thanks 
to a group member who sold me some well-used ones for cheap)

I wanted to see other folks' experiences with these two pretty different 
tires?

I'm using these on some new (to me) routes that combine sections of rough 
gravel, singletrack, and road through Philly.

In an earlier thread, I'd been complaining about the slowness of the 
Cazaderos--thinking it might be the heavy MTB wheels on that bike, but 
people suggested a tire change and they were correct. With the Snoqualmie 
passes I get great acceleration and climbing in addition to the plushness.

Now that I've done some of the same routes on both I've noticed that the 
range of mixed terrain is way more fun on The Snoqualmie pass, with the 
only real issue being a fair amount more sliding on dirt and roots. Mud is 
also much more of a thing than on the cazadero. Another negative, I did get 
two flats in a short ride yesterday. Maybe still working out the pressure. 
There's also an insane amount of broken glass on these routes.

The Cazaderos feel much tougher, slide less on singletrack, and are more 
confidence inspiring. They are also way slower, even off road, and make the 
road sections more meh. They are far less cushy, really noticeable on rough 
gravel.

I was concerned about the potential for less fender clearance under the VO 
52s. So far, the Snoqualmie pass are actually a bit smaller than the 
Cazaderos. I'm not sure how much more they'll stretch, it's only been a 
week or so and they're around 40mm, I think.

Anyway, I wanted to hear other folks' thoughts on these two. It seems like 
the comparable size RH knobby might be the best of both, but I'm going to 
work with this pair until I wear them out. . .

---Adam

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Re: [RBW] WTB VERY used Snoqualmie Pass

[Adam]

Thanks

And thanks to the list, I have some on the way.

I'll post back about fit under the VO 52s. I may just start another thread 
about fender clearances on dirt. I've installed the Portland Design Works 
releases, but am putting a lot of faith in them to actually work when 
needed.

On Saturday, May 15, 2021 at 12:46:13 AM UTC-4 David Baldi wrote:

> No luck here, but just chipping in to say that, when mounted on 
> Cliffhangers, the SnoPs do just fit under VO 52mm fenders (Sam H). It is 
> close enough to sketch me out a bit on dirt. 
>
> On Wednesday, May 12, 2021 at 9:09:48 PM UTC-4 row.n.2...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi Adam
>> Are you still making sling shots and selling security screws and bolts.
>> I have a pair of "barely used "Snoqualmie pass 700c tires.  Black 
>> sidewall.
>> My priorities have changed. Flat resistant takes precident over cushy 
>> ride I had a flat and went back to schwalbe.
>> This maybe more than you want to spend . You can see the fine tread like 
>> new. They are pretty close to being a slick.
>> How about $60 for both plus a sling shot and free shipping depending 
>> where you live. 
>> Let me know.
>> Jon
>>
>> On Tue, May 11, 2021, 1:49 PM Adam  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about buying some snoqualmie pass tires, but would love to 
>>> try them on some of the surfaces I ride before committing to the price of 
>>> new ones.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a set of VERY used sonqualmie passes that they'd be 
>>> willing to sell for cheap? Even if they only have <50miles left, that's 
>>> fine, I just want to check clearances under the VO 52mm fenders, their 
>>> handling of mud and dirt, and compare them to the cazaderos I'm currently 
>>> using.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/826f8b65-dd1b-40be-b250-2aa8cc4f9453n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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[RBW] WTB VERY used Snoqualmie Pass

[Adam]

Hi all,

I'm thinking about buying some snoqualmie pass tires, but would love to try 
them on some of the surfaces I ride before committing to the price of new 
ones.

Does anyone have a set of VERY used sonqualmie passes that they'd be 
willing to sell for cheap? Even if they only have <50miles left, that's 
fine, I just want to check clearances under the VO 52mm fenders, their 
handling of mud and dirt, and compare them to the cazaderos I'm currently 
using.

Thanks

Adam

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Re: [RBW] wheel weight and acceleration?

[Adam]

Thanks for all the thoughts.

Someone asked if I'd weighed the wheels, unfortunately I don't have a scale.

Maybe I'll swap the tires sometime. Not really my end goal, but would help 
me understand what's going on.

Just curious if anyone on here has ever swapped from a heavier wheelset to 
a lighter one on one of the burlier Rivs?

There's a somewhat absurd aspect to my curiosity, since I bought the 
Hillborne to have something livelier than the Marrakesh, but now the ride 
of the Hillborne makes it hard to use the Marrakesh. I intended to keep the 
Hillborne on road and use the Marrakesh for gravel and light singletrack 
but have been taking the Hillborne for those rides too. The only real 
"problem" is that I've banged my fenders up a bit and would rather be using 
the bosco bar and knobby tires of the Marrakesh off-road.

Anyway, regardless of practical stuff, it's good to understand the effects 
of different wheels.

On Wednesday, April 7, 2021 at 4:54:12 PM UTC-4 David Person wrote:

> Adam, good choice on the Barlow Pass tires.  I ran a set on my Hillborne 
> for 5 years till the rear wore out this past fall.  I switched to 
> Snoqualmie Pass tires for a bit more cush.  I have them mounted on Dyad 
> rims and they measure 41mm wide, where the BPs measured 35mm, if I 
> remember.  Tried a pair of Oracle Ridge but they were a bit on the large 
> size.  They would fit but hard to get the rear wheel on and off.  In my 
> opinion, the Snoqualmies ride/handle/respond very much like the Barlows 
> with a bit more tire volume to soak up the bumps.  Not an answer to the 
> exact question you were asking, but wanted to congratulate you on your tire 
> choice and give my two cents.
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 7, 2021 at 1:17:03 PM UTC-7 philipr...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> So we're back to #1 - light tires & tubes. Followed by #2 - light rims & 
>> spokes.
>>
>> No one else want to chime in on friction? How much slip does say, a 
>> semi-knobby tire like the Cazadero allow compared to the RH & is that 
>> noticeable when accelerating?
>>
>> Inboard brakes are a thing of beauty & danger, I believe the Lotus 72 F1 
>> car may have been the 1st to implement. The problem has been the load on 
>> the half shaft which, according to the inquest, the associated failure of 
>> that was the cause of Rindt's fatal crash in that car.
>> On Wednesday, April 7, 2021 at 3:07:59 PM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:
>>
>>> The comparison to motor vehicle unsprung weight may parallel bicyclists' 
>>> focus on wheel and tire weight but available horsepower of even weak 
>>> engines makes all but the most competitive motor vehicles seem sloppy with 
>>> their unsprung, wheel and tire weights comparatively. 
>>>
>>> You on your bike won't make enough horsepower to overcome much weight 
>>> increases by anything distant from the hub. The greatest improvement to 
>>> angular acceleration (increasing a wheels rotating speed) will be at the 
>>> greatest distance from the axle; tires/tubes. Smaller changes in weight net 
>>> larger feelings of better response at that distant component, tubes come in 
>>> second, rim choice third. Spokes are next and the hubs may be eclipsed by 
>>> having lighter pedals. Light wheels, on the unsprung weight topic, do seem 
>>> to ride nicer because they don't require such impact to move up and down 
>>> over surface irregularities. Heavy rimmed wheels cancel benefits of light 
>>> tires in my very subjective experiments. 
>>>
>>> Total weight of a bike can affect what you've felt as a difference 
>>> between your two bikes but the fastest way to improve the ride of a bike to 
>>> me is a wheel made of a light rim/spokes and a light tire. I ruined the 
>>> young woman we mentor by loaning her my Rambouillet's PJW-made wheels for a 
>>> long ride. Velocity Synergy rims with 36°, straight gauge spokes, XT hubs 
>>> and RH Stampede Pass ELs and light tubes. She is having me work up a price 
>>> for a set of responsibly lighter wheels with a dyno hub front as a result. 
>>>
>>> Some strategies in automotive design to reduce unsprung weight are 
>>> elegant. The Alfa Romeo Giulia GT 1600 Junior De Dion rear suspension 
>>> removed the brake disc from the unsprung weight by putting them on the 
>>> other ends of the half shafts, on either side of the differential. that 
>>> carried on in their designs for decades. 
>>>
>>> Andy Cheatham
>>> Pittsburgh
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, April 7, 2021 at 11:41:15 AM UTC-4 philipr...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
&

[RBW] wheel weight and acceleration?

[Adam]

Hi all, hoping to get some thoughts on the role of wheels in acceleration 
and climbing.

I recently picked up my first Riv (Hillborne) and am running Dyads and 
Barlow Pass tires. Among other things, I'm amazed at the difference in 
acceleration, speed, and particularly climbing vs my other bike, which is a 
pretty heavy Salsa Marrakesh with stock wheels (WTB sx19 and Shimano m475 
hubs) and Cazaderos.

I'm not necessarily jumping to replace the Marrakesh's wheels ATM, but I am 
curious whether anyone has thoughts on whether or not that's likely the 
difference I'm feeling in acceleration and speed?

There's definitely a substantial weight difference between the two builds, 
but I've loaded up the Sam a few times and it's still way quicker. I'd just 
swap the wheels, but the Marrakesh's are disc.

thoughts?

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[RBW] Re: FS - Bags and a rack! Sackville, Fab's Chest, Nitto

[Adam Bowen]

EVERYTHING IS SOLD! THANK YOU, EVERYONE!

On Thursday, March 18, 2021 at 11:28:39 AM UTC-4 Adam Bowen wrote:

> Sackville TrunkSack Small - GREEN - $80 +$10 Shipping
> Sackville SaddleSack XSmall - GRAY - *SOLD*
> Fabio's Chest, sewn by Swift Industries -  GREEN - LARGE - $200 + $20 
> shipped
> Nitto Mini-Front 32F - *SOLD*
>
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 2:52:03 PM UTC-4 Sean B. wrote:
>
>> Interested in the fabios chest, do you have the mounting hardware for the 
>> saddle? 
>>
>> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 1:38:54 PM UTC-5 Adam Bowen wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all! I have some bags for sale. All used, but not for very long and 
>>> none abused. Located in Philadelphia if you want a local pickup, otherwise, 
>>> I will ship at the buyer's expense. 
>>>
>>> Sackville TrunkSack Small - GREEN - $80 +$10 Shipping
>>> Sackville SaddleSack XSmall - GRAY - $60 + $10 Shipping
>>> Fabio's Chest, sewn by Swift Industries -  GREEN - LARGE - $200 + $20 
>>> shipped
>>> Nitto Mini-Front 32F - $90 + $20 shipped
>>>
>>> PHOTOS: 
>>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Toe348pvjfisziROnus48ArlyxbvHJno?usp=sharing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS - Bags and a rack! Sackville, Fab's Chest, Nitto

[Adam Bowen]

Sackville TrunkSack Small - GREEN - $80 +$10 Shipping
Sackville SaddleSack XSmall - GRAY - *SOLD*
Fabio's Chest, sewn by Swift Industries -  GREEN - LARGE - $200 + $20 
shipped
Nitto Mini-Front 32F - *SOLD*

On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 2:52:03 PM UTC-4 Sean B. wrote:

> Interested in the fabios chest, do you have the mounting hardware for the 
> saddle? 
>
> On Tuesday, March 16, 2021 at 1:38:54 PM UTC-5 Adam Bowen wrote:
>
>> Hi all! I have some bags for sale. All used, but not for very long and 
>> none abused. Located in Philadelphia if you want a local pickup, otherwise, 
>> I will ship at the buyer's expense. 
>>
>> Sackville TrunkSack Small - GREEN - $80 +$10 Shipping
>> Sackville SaddleSack XSmall - GRAY - $60 + $10 Shipping
>> Fabio's Chest, sewn by Swift Industries -  GREEN - LARGE - $200 + $20 
>> shipped
>> Nitto Mini-Front 32F - $90 + $20 shipped
>>
>> PHOTOS: 
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Toe348pvjfisziROnus48ArlyxbvHJno?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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