Re: [RBW] Rivendell Roadbike Curious

[Paul G]

One thing, I think, that separates Riv road bikes from other brands is the 
maintaining of good fit AND handling geometry at the smaller frame sizes 
this thread is dealing with. The 700c wheel size has to be dealt with 
because they physically "get in the way" of good geometry more as the 
frames become smaller (because the wheels stay the same size).

Regarding the Roadeo specifically, this frame was designed with club 
riding, and even tight peloton riding, in mind so the maneuverability is 
the quickest of all the Riv road bikes. Moreover, sizes smaller than 59cm 
get thinner, superlight tubing (down to 4mm bellies) in the main triangle. 
This is assuming the current models still adhere to the original design. So 
it's lighter and perhaps more lively than the equivalent Roadini. Finally, 
it has more of the look of a classic road bike with its nearly level top 
tube.

So the Roadeo becomes more unique from the other models in the smaller 
sizes. 

I've been riding a Roadeo for 10 years now and love it.

On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 6:02:56 PM UTC-7 Tony Lockhart wrote:

> [image: Screenshot 2024-04-25 at 6.00.23 PM.png]
> @Leah -- Your Platypii are 55's, no? Might be fun to compare the numbers. 
> ;)
> On Thursday, April 25, 2024 at 4:45:35 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:
>
>> Wow, I show up late and there are ten thousand replies already which is 
>> too many to read through now 
>>
>> My initial thought is that going from the racing platy's very upright 
>> position all the way to a drop bar road bike is a huge jump. I have to say, 
>> drop bars are truly the best in headwinds, but getting a sweep bar setup 
>> that allows you to get low and stretch out reaching the forward 'hooks' can 
>> be a great compromise between those situations and lower-effort riding.  
>>
>> If it were me, I'd swap the Rasplaty's bar and stem to the longest of the 
>> new 90-190 stems and a Choco bar; I'd then set up the controls so that you 
>> can slide your hands all the way to the front curves without having stuff 
>> in the way (bar end shifters are great for this!) and wrap this area in 
>> Newbaums.  Then I'd slam the stem down as low as you can get away with - 
>> bars nearly at saddle level, probably. 
>>
>> I don't know if this exact thing has already been said, nor what reaction 
>> may already have been provided, so apologies if I'm being an echo!  Pocket 
>> Platy might actually be short enough you can run drop bars on it, but you'd 
>> need a very short stem to pull it off - the Nitto / Crust 'BJ' stem should 
>> do the trick; it's what I used to get my Bombadil set up with drops at an 
>> appropriate reach for me and has that classic Nitto finish and quality. 
>>
>>   
>>
>> On Thursday 25 April 2024 at 10:47:38 UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Bending those "BL" rules forced me to concede that the front derailleur 
>>> I chose for my 3x1 build was too crappy.  I kind of smugly used the 
>>> crappiest front derailleur in my bin, because friction shifted front 
>>> derailleurs are a dime a dozen.  The crappiest one (old Deer Head) proved 
>>> to be too crappy.  Thanks to this ride I tossed the bike in the stand and 
>>> put a much nicer FD on there, and now my 3x1 Rom (code name "RoadTrio") 
>>> satisfies another VERY important category.  That category is "every bike 
>>> should have one Campy part".  Now with a Mirage Triple FD, RoadTrio is in 
>>> the club.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, April 23, 2024 at 2:52:35 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 It’s an honor to have the Bill Lindsay Rules bent for our delight here. 
 We await. Bated breath, and all that jazz!

 On Apr 23, 2024, at 5:51 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

 "Let’s both Rom-ride this summer! We could even do it in Michigan! "


 I need to grab a bike right now to head over to the dentist.  I'm going 
 to break my own self-imposed rule and ride my Romulus on its first ride. 
  Pics will prove it.

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA


 On Tuesday, April 23, 2024 at 1:02:31 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
 wrote:

> Let’s both Rom-ride this summer! We could even do it in Michigan! 
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 23, 2024, at 3:46 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
> I think that falls into Joe Bernard's recommendation of taking a 
> flyer on a used Rivendell at decent price.  Love it if you can and sell 
> it 
> if you find you can't love it.  Go for it if you can stand over it. 
>
>
> I bought a used 59cm Romulus this year, and built it but haven't 
> ridden it, because of my weird self-imposed mileage quota system.  But I 
> will be Rom-riding this summer!
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Tuesday, April 23, 2024 at 12:33:00 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding 
> Ding! wrote:
>
>> So I found a 55 cm Romulus for $1250. What do we think of THAT?
>>
>> On Apr 23, 2024, at 

[RBW] Re: Opinions re Roadeo colors

[Paul G]

I don't have a cream-accented Rivendell to compare directly to my Roadeo, 
but on its own, one would call it white (with red accents), not cream. In 
reality, it is an off white that was selected specifically to soften the 
overall look of the bike just a tad. I confirmed this with Mark Abele at 
Rivendell. I also have a bottle of Roadeo White directly from Waterford. It 
matches the bike nicely and is indeed an off white. I think most would call 
my bike "white" rather than "cream".

On Friday, December 10, 2021 at 7:21:14 AM UTC-8 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Jim S asked something about shades of white.  I don't know which photos of 
> which bikes you are referring to, but my cream with red Roadeo has the same 
> cream color as the head tube of my other Rivendells.  At least close enough 
> that they appear identical to me.  I imagine there may be an actual WHITE 
> Rivendell photographed on the internet somewhere.  The two photos I linked 
> in my initial response were:
>
> 1. a shot of my own cream and red Roadeo.  I think the cream looks cream, 
> especially when compared with the WHITE HED logo on the rims.  
> 2. a shot of my own Amethyst Smoke with cream Legolas.  The cream of that 
> headtube matches the cream of my cream and Red Roadeo.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Friday, December 10, 2021 at 6:14:28 AM UTC-8 Jim S. wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the responses. I think I like all the colors.
>>
>> Bill Lindsay: the cream-with-red-or-blue Roadeos apppear white to to me. 
>> Perhaps the difference doesn't show up in the photos? Are these Roadeos the 
>> same cream as the headtube cream on other Rivs? 
>>
>> On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 3:14:03 PM UTC-6 Scott Calhoun wrote:
>>
>>> I bought it from TPC recently (in 2021--maybe 6 months ago), hoping it 
>>> was indeed a Roadeo, but after I got it, using the serial number I 
>>> confirmed that Mark N. built it and confirmed that it wasn't a Roadeo, but 
>>> somebody's Riv custom. I rode it for maybe three days, but although it fit 
>>> me and feel really stable and was beautifully made, it felt less nimble 
>>> than my Ram, and it just wasn't what I was hoping for. 
>>>
>>> To TPCs credit, they took it back and even paid the return shipping as 
>>> they had mis-named it in their description. So it did go back up for sale 
>>> recently I suspect. Anyone on this list pick it up? 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 12:27:46 PM UTC-7 Kevin D norcal - 
>>> santa rosa wrote:
>>>
 Hey Scott, thanks for the clarification.  Yeah, I saw it on TPC listed 
 as a Rodeo (I thought it was listed recently but maybe not).  I figured it 
 was custom and thought maybe Waterford.  I saw the fork braze-on but 
 didn't 
 catch the larger tire capacity.  Perhaps more like a Ramb then or even 
 stouter yet.  Great paint either way.  
 curious: are you saying you bought it from TPC recently and returned it 
 to them?  Or you bought it new from Riv and returned to Riv a while back . 
 . . and that it wound up at TPC later on.  

 On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 11:07:34 AM UTC-8 Scott Calhoun wrote:

> I briefly owned this silver one which was offered by The Pros Closet. 
> For the record, it is not a Roadeo and was mis-labeled as such by TPC. It 
> is a Rivendell custom built by Mark Nobilette. I loved the color, but it 
> was build quite stout and more loaded touring oriented IMO. It was not 
> the 
> light lively ride I was hoping for from a Roadeo so I returned it. It 
> also 
> used long, rather than medium reach brakes so I would fit relatively huge 
> tires. 
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 9, 2021 at 11:51:18 AM UTC-7 Kevin D norcal - 
> santa rosa wrote:
>
>> Lots of great pics and colors.  I didn't see a Silver one yet so will 
>> add this one.  * It's not mine but I wish it was (and if the owner ever 
>> wants to pass it on lemme know).  I recall a JP Weigle build with 
>> similar 
>> paint.  Fine silver - elegance.
>>
>> [image: silver Roadeo.jpg]
>>
>> On Monday, December 6, 2021 at 9:25:18 AM UTC-8 Jim S. wrote:
>>
>>> Hi, I recently obtained a used Roadeo. It needs a new paint job. 
>>> Does anyone have opinions on the ideal colors for a Roadeo? Photos are 
>>> encouraged, of course.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Show Me Your Roadeo!

[Paul G]

In sizes larger than 57cm, the tubing for Roadeo isn't much different than 
their other previous road-going designs and is similar to the Ram and AHH. 
It's the size 57 and below that gets the light 7/4/7 tubing...at least for 
the original Waterford-built renditions. Based on that, my guess is that 
your 64cm Quickbeam isn't appreciably more stout than a 63cm Roadeo.

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 5:04:52 PM UTC-7 Scott Calhoun wrote:

> A 63cm Roadeo remains the one Rivendell that I've always wanted but never 
> owned. My current daily driver is a 64cm Quickbeam which based on the 
> geometry would seem to give me a taste of Roadeo handling in a slightly 
> more stout package. I'm really enjoying seeing Austin and Matt's 63cm 
> builds, as well as all the other cool variations. 

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[RBW] Re: And the winner of best handlebar is....

[Paul G]

I'm primarily a road rider on a Roadeo. I started with a Dream Bar, 
switched to a Mark's Bar, then a Noodle. Then I tried a Compass Maes 
Parallel. Now I'm back to the Noodle and have determined it's the best for 
me for now. #teamnoodle

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 5:56:18 PM UTC-7 bdcamp...@gmail.com wrote:

> Agreed. #teamnoodle
>
> On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 7:49:18 PM UTC-4 mrb wrote:
>
>> The 'stache is nice but NOODLE IS BEST!
>>
>> #teamnoodle
>>
>> On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 7:34:33 PM UTC-4 Berkeleyan wrote:
>>
>>> Agree. I have Albastache bars on my new Riv-ish Custom, and they're 
>>> really good. I had Moustache bars and then Noodles on my actual Riv custom 
>>> over the past 22 years, and think these are the right bars for at least the 
>>> next decade. 
>>>
>>> - Andrew, Berkeley
>>>
>>> https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kTnjBCS/0/L/i-kTnjBCS-L.jpg
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: In Praise of the Roadini

[Paul G]

Interesting how low the seat tube bottle cage mount is. 


On Sunday, January 24, 2021 at 2:56:49 PM UTC-8 Bones wrote:

> Here's one more then. Nice freezing cold evening ride.[image: roadini.jpg]
>
> Bones
> On Wednesday, January 13, 2021 at 12:06:43 PM UTC-5 zem...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Austin, let us know how the bike turned out!
>>
>> I'm always on the edge of buying this frame when Riv brings them out. 
>> Each new positive review brings me a little closer :)
>>
>> Zack 
>> Toronto/DC
>>
>> On Wednesday, January 6, 2021 at 12:48:01 PM UTC-5 aus...@soundcoop.tv 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm in the process of building up my first Riv, a silver Roadini, and 
>>> this thread has me mighty excited. Thanks all,
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 4, 2021 at 9:46:01 PM UTC-5 Jeff B wrote:
>>>
 Seems I can only post 1 at a time in this thread. Must have been 
 something with the google change,
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: In Praise of the Roadini

[Paul G]

And wheel/tire weight can make a difference on steering feel too. When I 
ride my Roadeo unloaded on spirited road rides, I like the more lively 
turn-in of lightweight 32mm Soma Supple Vitesse tires (250 grams). They 
allow precise steering adjustment mid-corner due to less gyroscopic force 
in the wheels. When urban commuting with a rear saddlebag load up to 10 
lbs, I like Jack Brown Greens which add 100 grams of tire weight per wheel. 
The added stability counters the weight shift to the rear from the saddle 
bag (less stable) and makes for a more relaxed, gentle handling which I 
like when commuting. 

On Monday, January 4, 2021 at 12:05:20 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:

> All the 5 different Rivendells I've ridden (3 road customs, 42.5 and 45 cm 
> stays, early Sam Hill, and 2nd gen Ram) exhibited what I think is a 
> Grantian quality, unerring stability without sluggish turn-in, though for 
> me, the first custom was a bit too quick to transition from straight to 
> turn with the skinniest tires (ie, it was a wee bit twitchy, tho' this with 
> very light, very short 559 X 22mm 24" wheels; with 32s it was almost 
> perfect); the Sam had *too much* "corners on rails" feeling -- harder to 
> adjust line mid-turn; and the Ram felt a bit sedate after the quicker 
> customs, which are my benchmarks for road bike handling. 
>
> There are all sorts of other bikes that are pleasant to ride, but this 
> quality of stability with "natural" turn-in seems to mark most if not all 
> of Grant's designs. Note that you can have too much of the "corners as if 
> on rails" quality, but Grant's best designs seem to have a perfect balance 
> of stability and quickness. And I realize that taste plays a huge role in 
> what one finds acceptable and superlative.
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 4, 2021 at 12:08 PM Scott Calhoun wrote:
>
>> IME, my most confidence inspiring bikes on fast downhills have all had 
>> longish chainstays (43-45cm) same as the Roadinis. I've not ridden a 
>> Roadini, but my Ram had that great confidence inspiring handling around 
>> curves. My Quickbeam is similar. 
>>
>> Roadini Curious in Tucson
>>
>> On Sunday, April 12, 2020 at 5:22:36 PM UTC-7 lambbo wrote:
>>
>>> My experience of the Roadini is that it feels like you're on a rail, 
>>> like a train car, it just brings you around all the curves and down the 
>>> hills on a tight line, no wobbling around, with momentum.  It's incredible. 
>>>
>>  
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Photos of my Roadeo, set up for brevets

[Paul G]

I should say that one person's opinion of what constitutes acceptable safe 
fender clearance may differ from another. In any case, fitting Jack Browns 
under the SKS P45s on my Roadeo takes careful installation to max out the 
available clearance. It is a tight fit. Perhaps tighter than some may be 
comfortable with. Nevertheless, Rivendell marketed the Roadeo as being able 
to do so and sold them like that. And I have never had any issues with my 
installation other than an occasional leaf getting caught and making a 
racket against the spinning tire. I am careful about running over sticks, 
etc. as any rider with fenders ought to be.

On Tuesday, May 12, 2020 at 12:26:55 AM UTC-7, Paul Y wrote:
>
> Very interesting to know that Jack Brown's will fit under SKS P45s! 
>
> My Compass 32mm Stampede Pass tires seem tight under my SKS P45s (albeit 
> they are 13 years old, dimensions may have been updated since)
>
> Nonetheless I have been wanting to buy a pair of JBs for fenderless days 
> and am now inclined to try the combination. Thanks for posting that!
>
>
> On Monday, May 11, 2020 at 11:54:50 AM UTC+8, Paul G wrote:
>>
>> The bar is a 44cm Nitto 177 Noodle on an 8cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe.
>>
>> Crank set is a 46x30 Velo Orange Grand Cru 175mm.
>>
>> Pedals are Shimano 105 5700 era.
>>
>> I originally had SKS Longboards on but the front one broke so I replaced 
>> the front with a Chromoplastics version of the P45 with a PB mudflap 
>> attached to it that I had lying around. I chose SKS due to the ease of 
>> installation, they allow me to fit Jack Browns, and I can put the bike in 
>> my car (front wheel on) without ruining the front fender. I do agree that 
>> the metal fenders mentioned have better coverage and look classier...and if 
>> anybody has safely fit Jack Browns under them on their Roadeo, I'd be 
>> interested in your installation tips and tweaks.
>>
>> -Paul
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Photos of my Roadeo, set up for brevets

[Paul G]

I forgot to mention that there are 20mm of spacers total.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Photos of my Roadeo, set up for brevets

[Paul G]

Austin,

I forgot to mention that there are 20mm of headset spacers total. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Photos of my Roadeo, set up for brevets

[Paul G]

Austin, when my frameset arrived from Waterford to Rivendell, the fork steerer 
was cut to length after Mark at Rivendell called me and asked how tall the 
stack of spacers ought to be. I sensed there was latitude depending on my 
desired bar height and future height potential. I decided to use the same 
height as the test Roadeo I had ridden prior to ordering. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Photos of my Roadeo, set up for brevets

[Paul G]

The bar is a 44cm Nitto 177 Noodle on an 8cm Nitto Technomic Deluxe.

Crank set is a 46x30 Velo Orange Grand Cru 175mm.

Pedals are Shimano 105 5700 era.

I originally had SKS Longboards on but the front one broke so I replaced the 
front with a Chromoplastics version of the P45 with a PB mudflap attached to it 
that I had lying around. I chose SKS due to the ease of installation, they 
allow me to fit Jack Browns, and I can put the bike in my car (front wheel on) 
without ruining the front fender. I do agree that the metal fenders mentioned 
have better coverage and look classier...and if anybody has safely fit Jack 
Browns under them on their Roadeo, I'd be interested in your installation tips 
and tweaks.

-Paul

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[RBW] Re: Rough drive train issue

[Paul G]

I, too, am having this issue. For me, it happened after going from an 
Ultegra 10-speed chain and cassette to a KMC chain and MicroShift cassette, 
both in 9-speed. However, the "grinding" sensation didn't happen 
immediately, but after about 150-200 miles (after the first chain re-lubing 
with Boeshield I might add).

It's become annoying and maybe I should have stayed with the 10-speed stuff 
but I drank the "9-is-all-you-need" Kool-aid...especially so since the 
current 9-speed setup friction shifts worse than the former 10-speed stuff 
did even though it's not suppose to.

I'll also check the cassette lock ring torque before I complain further.

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[RBW] Re: The Final Legolas

[Paul G]

Beautiful, Brian. Love the green and cream accents.

Regarding the L vs R question above re: pavement use, the Roadeo has a slightly 
lower bottom bracket than the Legolas. I think that might be beneficial for 
handling feel while descending on the road when compared to the Legolas' better 
clearance over obstacles on the cyclocross course.

Regarding tire sizes and road handling feel on the Roadeo, I liked the handling 
best on mine with 28mm tires but choose to use 30mm-33mm for improved comfort 
via lower pressures. And the wider tires allow the occasional dirt or gravel 
road to be enjoyed. 

Paul

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[RBW] Free for Shipping: MUSA Shorts (kind of)

[Paul G]

Nice job! What's the size?

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[RBW] Re: Looking for a replacement for the old MUSA short sleeved merino wool jersey

[Paul G]

Rod, how do the Portland / Oregon Cyclewear jerseys compare to the 
MUSA/Kucharik ones as far as weight and quality is concerned?

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[RBW] Re: New-to-me: 59cm Roadeo

[Paul G]

Funny thing is that I've had down tube shifters on my Roadeo for a total of 
maybe one month over the nearly six years I've had it. I'm not really getting 
my money's worth on those DT shifter bosses! But at least I have the option if 
inspiration strikes again. 

I'm glad the Roadeo is still available period. It's somewhat surprising to me 
considering the Roadini...

Paul

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[RBW] Re: New-to-me: 59cm Roadeo

[Paul G]

Roadeos don't have DT shifter bosses for two reasons. Firstly, the Roadeo 
was designed to be as light as possible and still meet Grant's requirements 
for strength and durability (I guess cable stop braze ons are lighter than 
DT shifter bosses) and, secondly, since the bike is an alternative to 
Modern Carbon fiber Road Bikes, it was presumed that most buyers would use 
integrated brake/shifters. Or bar end shifters.

I, like you, wasn't satisfied with that so I ordered mine with DT shifter 
bosses which was a $50 add on. Since Roadeos are built to order, there's 
opportunity to do this sort of thing. I also had a chain hanger peg added 
to the right chain stay (an additional $50) to keep the chain under tension 
when the rear wheel is removed. That comes in handy when putting the bike 
in the car with the wheels off.

I bet fork eyelet braze ons for a front rack wouldn't be out of the 
question either. Indeed, there was a Roadeo shown on the BLUG in the past 
with such braze ons.

Paul


On Tuesday, June 4, 2019 at 5:02:41 AM UTC-7, Jock Dewey wrote:
>
> Beautiful machine, Bill! Nice work.
>
> Grant's designs all ride so so well, and these two, RAM & ROADEO, just 
> rise like cream. Why, oh why, however, doesn't that true road bike, ROADEO, 
> have bosses for DT shifters. A quirky Grantism I guess, they* all *seem 
> to have one buried in there somewhere.
>
> Jock Dewey / Athens, GA
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?

[Paul G]

Fascinating. A picture of this setup would be great if you have one, Laing.

Paul

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:08:17 AM UTC-7, lconley wrote:
>
> I was talking about the stays. The L bracket attaches to the fender with 
> the thick hardware facing out, thin button head or rivet head inside the 
> fender. The daruma is rotated 90 degrees on the stay and goes through the L 
> bracket instead of the fender – the daruma never touches the fender. The 
> daruma is parallel to the fender, not perpendicular.
>
>  
>
> Laing
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
>  
>
> *From:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com  <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > *On Behalf Of *Bill Lindsay
> *Sent:* Friday, May 17, 2019 10:12 AM
> *To:* RBW Owners Bunch >
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?
>
>  
>
> Laing described ways to avoid having bulky hardware inside the fender at 
> the places the fender attaches to the rear brake bridge and fork crown.  In 
> that description, he repeatedly used the word "stays".  
>
>  
>
> I think we're misunderstanding each other.  I wasn't talking about 
> clearance at bridges.  I was talking about fender stay hardware.  I think 
> 'fender stays' are an actual thing.  These are fender stays:
>
>  
>
> [image: Image result for honjo fender stays]
>
>  
>
> Fender stays attach to the fender at one end and near the rear drop out or 
> fork tip on the other end.  The typical hardware that is used to attach 
> fender stays to the metal fender is one or two daruma bolts.  The daruma 
> bolts that come with Honjo, Velo Orange, and Berthoud metal fenders have a 
> fairly tall height inside the fender.  Depending on the vendor and the 
> setup the internal daruma hardware will be 4mm to 8mm tall, inside the 
> fender.  Often, when I correctly install metal fenders with correct equal 
> spacing to the tire all around, the place most likely to rub the tire will 
> be the fender stay hardware touching the tire in this area.  One could 
> re-shape the fender to not have proper clearance at the fender stays, but 
> that can cause other problems: it looks bad, you have more front TCO, and 
> you increase the risk of sucking a stick into a big gap that decreases as 
> the wheel rolls.  The "falsehood" I was spreading was just a statement of 
> fact: most metal fenders come with round fender stays.  Most metal fenders 
> come with daruma bolts to attach the stays to the fender.  Unmodified 
> daruma bolts intrude on the interior space of the fender at the fender 
> stays.  
>
>  
>
> Plastic fenders have a flat piece of metal pop-riveted to the fender, 
> protruding only 1mm or 2mm into the interior of the fender.  This area is 
> where I think plastic fenders always have more clearance.  If there is a 
> good solution for attaching fender stays to metal fenders with no interior 
> hardware I would be interested to learn about that hardware.  I imagine I 
> could design and fashion a fender stay mounting object that replaces 
> darumas that has this feature, but if there is already a part or an 
> established method to solve this area, I'd be happy to learn about it.  
>
>  
>
> Possibly the easiest method would be to run Berthoud brand fender stays.  
> Those are typically squished flat at the point that they attach to the 
> metal fender and drilled for bolts.  Run a pan head inside the fender and a 
> nut outside.  That solves the interior hardware problem, you just have to 
> buy extra stays (or always buy Berthoud fenders).  It's only money.  
>
>  
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 11:58:53 AM UTC-7, lconley wrote:
>
> Exactly. Put the panhead bolt head or hex button head inside the fender 
> and the nut on the outside. If you have daruma style stays, buy a $5 
> L-bracket from VO (or the sliding crimp fitting that comes standard with 
> most metal fenders and some plastic fenders, crimp it to the fender or cut 
> it up to make your own L-bracket)  - mount one side to the fender and the 
> other to the daruma bolt (play with the orientation for best appearance. 
> Can also use pop rivets ($4 with coupon for rivet gun, $4.80 for 500 rivets 
> with coupon at Harbor Freight) to attach to fender for maximum clearance 
> (use the aluminum rivets and pound or press them flat). You can also get 
> aluminum angle at Lowes or Home Depot and make really nice aluminum 
> L-brackets with a hacksaw, file and drill. If you have a bench grinder, it 
> goes quicker. With a rat tail file, you can make a squiggly point an the 
> bracket to match your lugs. Boulder Bike used to sell nice L-brackets (may 
> have been Berthouds) , they still have some beautiful diamond shaped fender 
> reinforcements.
>
>  
>
> The most difficult thing that I am putting fenders on is a Hubbuhubbuh 
> with 2.3 tires and linear brakes. The center stays at the rear have very 
> little side clearance and the linear brake cables are just above the tires. 
> The fenders will need to be cut or narrowed at the center stays and 

[RBW] Re: Roadini fendering at 32mm?

[Paul G]

Lots of good ideas here and from others. Yes, I was assuming stock supplied 
hardware but obviously one does not have to use it. When using the stock 
mounting hardware on some of the traditionally styled metal fenders, the 
hardware itself is what can limit vertical clearance. Some modern metal 
fender designs do seem to encroach upon the tire less.

Since the OP is referring to the Roadini, we assume a fender width limit of 
about 45mm. The rolled edges of popular traditionally styled metal fenders, 
combined with limited vertical clearance due to 57 mm reach caliper brakes, 
can limit the width of the tire more than an SKS P45 Longboard. I have VO 
45mm fenders on another bike. I haven't tried mounting them on the Roadeo, 
but eyeballing them leads me to my conclusions. Maybe one day, I'll give it 
a go just to see what I can get away with tire-wise. And if Iconley/Laing 
is willing to share some more tricks, maybe we'll be surprised at what's 
achievable.

Paul

On Tuesday, May 14, 2019 at 6:20:03 AM UTC-7, lconley wrote:
>
> The idea that metal fenders have less clearance than SKS is false. You can 
> buy wider metal fenders than you can plastic. You can press/pound a recess 
> into metal fenders at the fork crown, front brake area to increase the 
> overall clearance in other areas. Some Honjo fenders can be had 
> pre-clearanced for this purpose. You cannot put a recess in the SKS plastic 
> fenders without cutting. If you want to maximize clearance, you can always 
> cut the fenders (plastic or metal) at the fork crown, front brake area, 
> this cures the open brake - fender interference issue. The forward part of 
> the fender can be held in place with a modified "diving board" rack mount, 
> fender stay, rack or some combination thereof. Rivendell will even do this 
> for you.
>
> Laing
> Cocoa, FL
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Roadini fendering at 32mm?

[Paul G]

Rivendell used to market their Roadeos with Jack Browns and SKS P45s 
(Chromoplastics or Longboards) all the time. Perhaps they are no longer 
comfortable with that combination and limit the use of fenders with 28mm wide 
tires to protect themselves if a customer had a crash because something got 
caught in the front fender and flipped the bike.

I've been running the combo for going on four years with no problems other than 
a leaf getting caught in the front fender on occasion. But I'm careful to avoid 
going over sticks and such. And they must be installed carefully with attention 
to maximizing the available clearance. That means cramming the fender as high 
as possible under the brake calipers. By the way, this renders the wide opening 
of the R539 brakes useless as the fenders get in the way when opening them. I 
have to let almost all the air out to remove a wheel past the calipers.

Remember that the SKS fenders have more clearance potential than metal fenders. 
Honjos or similar styles may allow a 30mm at the most. Also, different people 
have differing levels of what their comfortable with regarding fender/tire 
clearance.

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[RBW] In praise of Silver Shifters

[Paul G]

I used to have all sorts of auto shifting and slipping Silver levers on the 
downtube of my Roadeo when putting down power, especially when standing. Those 
problems don't exist as bar ends on the same bike. Not sure why that is. I even 
bees waxed the screws in both locations. I really like them better on my drop 
bar end pods though so no loss for me.

Shifting is perfectly fine for me with a 105 5701 rear derailleur over a 
10-Speed Ultegra cassette. Plenty of precision helped by the long lever length. 
This is coming from having switched to Silvers from Dura Ace indexed bar end 
shifters. It took maybe a week to adjust to them.

That said, I'll be switching to a 9-speed setup when the 10-speed cassette is 
done. 9 is more economical.

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Noodle vs. Dirt Drop vs. B135 Randonneur - switching to drop bars with flare

[Paul G]

Nice bit of information.

Regarding the Noodles though, at least on my 44cm version, instead of a 
slight "rise" from the stem clamp area to the ramps, there is a slight 
"drop" in that the tops slope downwards slightly (as well as a bit rearward 
as we know) before curving to the front and becoming the ramps. This is 
when the bars are set up with the ramps roughly horizontal to the ground.

I find that bit of slope down from the stem clamp quite natural and 
ergonomic when riding on the tops. That said, I switched to a Compass Maes 
Parallel and find it a bit more supportive than the Noodle when riding on 
the ramps. But the Noodle had the better tops.

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[RBW] Re: Centerpull/Cantilever brakes and saddle bags

[Paul G]

Thanks for the responses. And forgive me for the spelling errors in my 
original post. Good grief! I should proofread more thoroughly before 
posting!

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[RBW] Centerpull/Cantilever brakes and saddle bags

[Paul G]

For those of you whole run centerpulls or cantilevers, do you have problems 
with the rear brake cable and/or straddle cable wearing into saddle bags 
that rest agains them?

It seems to me that a loaded Saddle Sack without a rear rack would 
naturally press against the rear brake cable at or below the area of the 
rear cable hanger. Does this cause and interference with the braking or 
long term wear of the bag?

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[RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Paul G]

Interesting discussion as usual. I eeigh163 lbs and I sometimes wonder if my 
61cm Roadeo is more stout than ideal. That sounds silly given that it's Riv's 
lightest bike, but it has to be able to withstand 250 lbs of rider weight.

In the custom frame section of the Riv website, there's an explanation of how a 
stock frame has to be built to safely support the heaviest rider any participle 
size might have riding it. It explains that a custom allows taking advantage of 
a rider's weight, particularly if they are lightweight.

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Re: [RBW] Re: The Rivendell Bike Weight Thread

[Paul G]

58 cm happens to be between the two Roadeo sizes where the tubing gauge 
changes. The 57 and below use the lighter gauge and 59+ are stouter, more like 
a Ram and Hilsen.

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[RBW] Dura Ace bar end friction mode slips

[Paul G]

I have a set of Dura Ace 10 speed bar end shifters I've been using a for a 
few years. I bought them used and they are the variant with a friction mode.

I used to switch to friction mode often on a whim during relaxed rides just 
to enjoy what used to be a normal thing in my childhood: Smooth, clickless 
shifts.

However, I recently did a handlebar swap (removed and replaced the 
shifters) and now it seems the rear shifter doesn't want to stay in gear 
while in friction mode. It's as if there is no longer enough friction to 
hold the lever in place against the spring tension of the rear derailer 
even when the D-nut is cranked down as much as possible while in friction 
mode.

Does anyone have an explanation and fix for this?

Thanks,
Paul

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadeo Future?

[Paul G]

Yes, I had noticed those differences too. Interesting indeed. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadeo Future?

[Paul G]

John, comparisons are difficult because my previous other bikes were standard 
non OS frames that were a bit smaller. But the 61cm Roadeo doesn't feel noodly 
at all to me. It's pretty solid on bumpy descents and I'm thankful for that. I 
wouldn't want it less "solid" feeling when I'm bombing down a mountain descent 
at 40+ mph. When pedaling it feels great when I'm having a good day and 
horrible when not. It's doesn't seem to hold me back at all and I'm faster on 
average with this bike than my previous road bikes. But I sit on the Roadeo 
much better and can put more effort into the ride as a result. Better position 
so more power. So, all told, I have no idea how much the Roadeo's materials and 
construction contribute to its performance and feel. It could be just a better 
position. 

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[RBW] Re: GB Cerf tires any good?

[Paul G]

To add to my previous post, I didn't ride these in the wet enough to have 
an opinion. But dry grip and handling was excellent with great comfort 
given its 28mm size.

On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 10:00:22 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I like their 700c Cypress tires.
> How are the 700c x 28 Cerfs?
>
> Good in wet?
> Good cornering?
> Rate of flats same as other GB/Compass tires?
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: GB Cerf tires any good?

[Paul G]

I had these as the first tires for my Roadeo. Standard casing. They felt 
fast and the bike actually handled best when I had these on. Flats were 
similar to the Cypres Extra Legers I've used. Maybe even a bit more 
frequent.

On Wednesday, September 26, 2018 at 10:00:22 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> I like their 700c Cypress tires.
> How are the 700c x 28 Cerfs?
>
> Good in wet?
> Good cornering?
> Rate of flats same as other GB/Compass tires?
>
> Thanks for the info.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo Future?

[Paul G]

>From Mark Abele regarding a 61 cm Roadeo:

True Temp OX Plat tubing in the main triangle
Top Tube:  .8 x .5 x .8mm
Down Tube:  .8 x .6 x .8mm
Seat Tube:  .6  x .8mm
Chainstay:  Reynolds Track Fork Blade 1.2mm
Seat Stay:  Double taper 12 x 16 x 11mm (OD; not sure of wall thickness)

This was in an email response from him in 2013 when I purchased the 
frameset.

So it's notably more "stout" than the smaller sizes as I stated earlier. As 
stout as a Ram, Rom and AHH in fact (at that size). That's why I wonder if 
the differences in speed at that larger size were noticeable, e.g. whether 
tubing gauge makes a difference speed.

Paul

On Friday, October 5, 2018 at 1:26:45 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> You could email to ask Grant directly.
>
> The only statement I have seen is from Grant in that cyclofiend interview 
> where he said Roadeos are 6/4/6. He didn't mention if anything differed 
> among sizes there. Just that Roadeos are 6/4/6.
>
> But if someone has a quote on the fact that bigger sizes are different, 
> please post it here. That would be helpful to find out for sure about 
> tubing specs for different MUSARoadeo sizes.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Roadeo Future?

[Paul G]

This is an interesting discussion. Based on what I can tell, RBW has not 
(ever?) attributed the stoutness of their frames as a contributing factor 
to how "fast" they are. They mention things like fitness, strength, rider 
position and comfort as the contributing factors. They have always 
mentioned tubing wall thickness as a design factor based on what the 
frame's intended use will be by using terms such as "road gauge" and so on. 
They've said the Roadeo is light because that's all the strength that's 
needed for a club riding bike.

If you read through the old Peeking Through the Knothole archives, Grant 
clearly outlines how he came to the conclusions he has about all this. 
There's no science or anything like that. Just his personal riding 
experiences. Interesting stuff.

But other bicycle gurus and folks on this board claim otherwise. I 
personally don't have a enough experience to be sure, but when folks claim 
the Roadeo is faster than xyz (when taking build, wheels, tires, etc. into 
consideration) I'm inclined to believe them. I'm taking the claims of 
"faster" as meaning more speed per amount of physical pedaling effort. Not 
handling or descending speed.

I have a 61cm Roadeo and it's the only RBW frame I've ever ridden so I 
don't have a basis of comparison. I have experience with other non-OS 
non-Riv steel road frames though. This frame is not as light 
construction-wise as the 57cm and smaller Roadeos. Instead, the basic 
tubing gauges are in the same range as the Ram, Rom and AHH of the same 
size (I had asked the question to Mark at RBW at the time of purchase). I 
weight 163 so that seems (to me) to not be a lot of weight for what the 
frame must have been designed around in that 61cm size. I always wonder if 
the same frame in the lighter gauge of smaller Roadeos would actually be 
better FOR ME or not. Would it be too flexy when bombing down a bumpy, 
winding descent? Would it be more comfortable? Would it be faster even? I 
don't know. Maybe it's perfect already!

All that said, it would be interesting to see how a 61cm Roadeo would 
compare to the Ram, Rom and AHH of the same size as the differences in 
stoutness are smaller (nonexistent?) than, say, Lum's smaller lighter gauge 
Roadeo when compared to the same sized Ram, Rom and AHH. I wonder if the 
speed benefits of a Roadeo frame diminish in the larger 59cm+ sizes and 
that the speed benefits are only for the small sized Roadeos. This has made 
me ponder the decision of getting the Roadeo when I could have gotten an 
AHH for $100 more at the time and gained a significant increase in 
versatility. But the marketing materials described the Roadeo as the racy 
bike and the AHH as the country bike so...

Paul

On Thursday, October 4, 2018 at 10:56:12 AM UTC-7, Mark Schneider wrote:
That would be disappointing, the whole point of the Rodeo is to be a faster 
model in the line-up. Oversized tubing is already stiffer, you don't need a 
beefier/thicker model, you already have that in AHH. I have a Homer it's 
great, but it's designed for a different kind of riding than a Rodeo. I'd 
like at least one true performance Riv in the line-up. 

On Thursday, October 4, 2018 at 6:51:27 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
I was told by Grant that plans were drawn up alteady for the Taiwan 
version, which will be longer and stouter than the MUSA version they have 
been making. But they haven’t decided if they will go ahead and make it or 
not. 


I think for now you can still get MUSA version.. If you want shorter stays 
and thinwall tubing now is the time. 




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[RBW] Jack Brown green/Cypres/Compass 32/ impressions?

[Paul G]

I've used JB Greens and GB Cypres Extra Leger on my Roadeo. The GB's are 
noticeably lighter and more flexible with a smoother, more shock-absorbing and 
vibration-damping ride. They also allow shaper handling due to less gyroscopic 
resistance in the steering. They feel faster overall and measure about 30mm 
wise on my H Plus Son TB14 rims.

The JB's are about 80-100 grams heavier per tire and this is easily felt in the 
steering (gyroscopic force) and effort required to accelerate. The bike becomes 
more stable and mellow. Less racy. The rise is still quite good at low 
pressures but not a good a the GB's. The side walls are sturdier and I don't 
worry about flats as much. The extra inertia from heavier JB tires means the 
bike is more reluctant to change speed. Slower to accelerate and brake but this 
also means the bike holds speed well. I don't really feel slower when cruising 
along at a good clip because of this. They are noticeably fatter than the 
Cypres EL and look great. 

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[RBW] Re: MIT Roadeo coming?

[Paul G]

Indeed, all Roadeo sizes below 59cm are 7/4/7. Anything 59cm and up is 
8/5/8. There are also other details to shave grams like the tiny chain stay 
bridge and modified Hilsen lugs. Cool details and a great design for riding 
in a pack. Very maneuverable without being overly twitchy, particularly 
with light 28mm tires. I think that's what separates this model from the 
others. That sharp handling.

In this current Rivendell era, it's interesting that this model even 
exists, what with it's emphasis on light weight. Such a cool bike.

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 6:06:05 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Let me qualify what I said by saying I thought I read Roadeo is 7/4/7. 
> Legolas I thought I read that, too, but I think only way to get is custom 
> .

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[RBW] Roadeo touch-up paint

[Paul G]

Touch up paint should be available directly from Waterford Precision Cycles. 
Just tell them what you have. That's what I did. 

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[RBW] WTB Shimano STI 2x9 Shifter

[Paul G]

I have some 2008 Sora 2x9 STI levers that I'd be happy to part with. Better on 
a bike than in a drawer. They are in excellent condition.

What kind of bar end shifters do you have? 

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[RBW] Workstand clamping

[Paul G]

For those of you with a fistful of seat post exposed on your large level top 
tube bikes, what do you clamp your workstand to?

I've been raising my seat post (marked with tape beforehand) to make room for 
the clamp but that is a pain in the neck. Is it safe to clamp onto the seat 
tube instead? It seems to me that the seat post inside would reinforce the seat 
tube itself. 

The bike in question is a 61cm Roadeo. 

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[RBW] FS: Compass Maes Parallel Drop Handlebar 46cm

[Paul G]

Folks,

I have a 46cm Compass Maes Parallel drop handlebar that didn't work out for 
me. 25.4 center bulge for stem clamp.

I mounted the bar in a Nitto quill stem with some non-aero brake levers to 
test it out for a handful of rides under 10 miles, all on the road. The bar 
has not had any bar tape or cable tape adhered to it.

There are no discernible scratches or marks except where the stem connects 
with the bar at the center bulge. The scratches are from using Nitto 25.4 
to 26.0 shims. They are on the surface only and could possible be polished 
out since these bars have a bare polished surface unlike Rivendell's satin 
finish on their Nitto bars. Some of these scratches are visible just beyond 
the edge of the stem (maybe an 1/8" past the stem on either side) but most 
of them are to the rear of the bar (facing the rider) and are barely 
visible for the most part. The bar is, otherwise, in excellent condition.

$100 including shipping.

Regards,
Paul


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[RBW] Silver Downtube Shifters

[Paul G]

The Silver shifters are clones of Suntour Cyclone downtube shifters. So one can 
argue that that's where they function best. Indeed, they are a bit long as 
barend shifters in comparison to typical proper barend shifters, but that extra 
length gives them a little more shifting precision so I like them in that spot 
too.

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[RBW] Re: Why no 650b Roadeo?

[Paul G]

The larger sized Roadeos (59 and above I think) have similar gauge tubing to 
the AHH. The sizes smaller than that use lighter-than-AHH tubing.

I have a 61 cm Roadeo and like it a lot, but realize that I could have had a 
more versatile bike in an AHH without having sacrificed much. 

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[RBW] Re: Just bought Compass 700x32 Extra Lights

[Paul G]

Don, what is the width of your new Stampede Passes at your inflation pressures 
on those 23mm rims?

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[RBW] New Hilsen in the Wissahickon

[Paul G]

Looks great! How does the AHH compare to the Roadeo you sold (taking setup and 
use into consideration of course)?

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[RBW] Credit where it's due (tires)

[Paul G]

Global Cycling Network is a British racing-oriented YouTube channel. Much 
of their advice has been typical of most sources cycling information that 
has a racer sort of bias and is not of much interest to this group.

They did a video on wide tires and gave credit to Bicycling Quarterly and, 
by extension, Jan Heine, as their source for all the benefits of fatter 
tires. I don't think they missed a single one of those benefits that BQ has 
given either.

It's not a perfect video. For instance, they claim a racing bike would need 
disc brakes in order to use wider (32mm) tires when we know that racing 
bikes are simply not optimally designed for wider tire clearances in the 
first place. But I've never seen a racer-type media source give such clear 
reasons to use wider-than-25mm tires.

I know I'm preaching to the choir, but it's still cool that BQ's research 
continues to get more into the mainstream. Let us also not forget that it 
was Grant Petersen himself that originally got Jan interested in wider 
tires.

Here's the YouTube video .

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Re: [RBW] Re: VO fenders vs. Honjo fenders?

[Paul G]

Boy, if her brifter was able to hit your rear fender, she must have had her 
bars slammed lower than low!


On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 1:17:49 PM UTC-7, ascpgh wrote:
>
> Patrick, She veered to the left when realizing I was stopping, her right 
> brifter lever glancing the fender left of center, leaving a 3" crease in 
> the aluminum. Something in her lever let go from that and no longer worked 
> as new.
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Noodle bars: Any upsweep on the flats?

[Paul G]

This is true. From the stem clamp to the beginning of the curve to the 
ramps, the Noodle bars actually slope downward slightly (like a Moustach 
bar, but not nearly as much) which results in the ramps being slightly 
lower for any given stem height. The amount is slight, but noticeable and I 
like how if feels when riding on the tops. It makes for a nice wrist angle 
there.


On Wednesday, June 15, 2016 at 5:11:17 AM UTC-7, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> Rather than upsweep, Noodles drop on the outside giving them a very 
> natural position for brake interruptor levers (cross brakes)
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Paul G]

Here, here.

Actually, I had not considered the whole adherence-to-complete-groups 
thing, but completely agree. Your suggested fix to the article is perfect. 
I, myself, have a complete mish-mash of stuff on my Roadeo to suit my needs 
best. I didn't have stuff lying around either. I had to acquire each part. 
A roadie bike the frame may have been designed to be, but that's not how 
I've set it up. I even had DT shifter bosses custom brazed upon ordering to 
give me max options. Such a beautiful thing the perfect blending of 
optimized components is.

On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 10:15:31 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
>
> Yes, it's disappointing that the author didn't make that more clear.
>
> I interpreted Ron Mc's "it's just the whole gruppo thing" to be a 
> regretful observation that many roadies are "complete-ists" and wouldn't 
> think of mixing and matching parts from other groups (let alone other 
> manufacturers).  
> Aka, it's too bad that they've bought into narrow-minded, race-oriented 
> design and marketing in component groups.  
> Bicycling magazine has reinforced this narrow-minded perspective, and I 
> believe that's why Paul G thought this article was remarkable.
>
> The author could have done those narrow-minded roadies a service by 
> saying, "If you want SRAM or Campagnolo long-reach brakes, you're out of 
> luck.  But, you can easily use any of the other brakes highlighted in this 
> article with your SRAM or Campagnolo brake levers or brifters."
>

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[RBW] Bicycling Magazine redeems itself...a little.

[Paul G]

Most, if not all, of us who visit this group know that one of Grant 
Petersen's primary bicycle frame design goals is maximizing tire clearance 
to allow a rider the option for wider tires than typical production 
bicycles can fit. He has clearly explained this in multiple Reader issues 
as well on the website. Parallel to this, he has complained about how 
cycling mass media, such as Bicycling Magazine, misleads readers with 
information that is not really in the interest of most riders (excessive 
focus on performance and bike weight, general riding modeled after road 
racing, etc).

The industry is gradually changing towards wider tires, but the road bike 
industry has been reluctant to move past short reach brakes. 

In this Bicycling Magazine article from Jan. 2016 
, 
the author not only admits the poor job the magazine has done in 
highlighting road bikes with more tire clearance and the benefits of more 
brake reach in bicycle design, but even suggests the Roadeo as a fat-tired 
(for road bikes) fendered road bike. Maybe there's still hope (sarcasm 
intended)!

Have a nice ride!

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Re: [RBW] Re: My first Roadeo, built and ridden!

[Paul G]

I've been using the VO 46/30 MkII crank for a couple hundred miles now and have 
had no problems. It basically goes unnoticed when riding and looks really nice 
when I'm not. I used the recommended 118mm BB width on my 61cm Roadeo, but 
would have preferred a 115 for a slightly better chainline. The 175mm cranks 
would still clear the chainstays easily. 

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[RBW] Re: "My first Roadeo" and chainline/BB question

[Paul G]

I've used GB Cerf, GB Cypres EL, and Jack Brown Greens on my Roadeo, all on H 
Plus Son TB14 rims. I like them all for different reasons.

The 28mm Cerfs have the best handling feel on twisty descents and feel fast.

The 30mm Cypres EL are more squirrelly feeling to me on the same descents. They 
don't inspire as much confidence, but they roll extremely fast and are quite 
comfortable. If I increase pressure to gain handing precision, the ride 
deteriorates unacceptably (for me). Also, the sidewalls are not tough 
whatsoever so I have to keep that in mind. 

The JB Greens are my winter tire. They do feel slower for sure, but are super 
cushy and stable and I feel better about them in wet roads with debris, small 
rocks, etc.

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[RBW] Re: A Soma San Marcos (Amos) Build

[Paul G]

Nice bikes, guys. I noticed that Phillip's fork has a more French-style 
bend to it.

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[RBW] Pineapple Bob (Robert Kurosawa) in Velominati

[Paul G]

Velominati, a website and rule book, isn't the sort of reading that many 
Rivendell riders peruse. If you don't know what it is, it's basically a 
satirical list of cycling Rules, DO's and DON'Ts with the ideal being road 
racing from the distant and recent past. In almost all ways, it's 
diametrically opposed to Grant's *Just Ride*.

Despite all that, Riv staff member, Robert Kurosawa, A.K.A. Pineapple Bob 
in old Bridgestone catalogs from the Grant era, was featured in a 
Velominati post!

Amusing!

http://www.velominati.com/look-pro/on-looking-fantastic/

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Re: [RBW] Re: Fender front flap: how close to the ground I is still safe?

[Paul G]

I, too, have noticed that Longboard fenders wider than 45mm are not long 
enough. I don't know why that is.

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[RBW] Re: Fender front flap: how close to the ground I is still safe?

[Paul G]

In Jan Heine's blog, he states that the front mud flap should be within 2" 
to the ground for maximum protection of spray to the drivetrain and feet. I 
don't know how safe it would be or otherwise but it apparently works well 
for him.

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[RBW] Re: my new Roadeo

[Paul G]

Don, are you riding Extra Leger or standard casing Grand Bois Cerfs?

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[RBW] Re: my new Roadeo

[Paul G]

 

I'll kindly let Don speak for himself.

 

The following opinions are based on a 160lb body weight and a 61cm Roadeo, 
currently with non-racy components and no fenders, that weighs about 24lbs.

I've tried GB 28mm and GB 32mm Extra Leger (closer to 30 in reality) on 
23mm rims on my Roadeo and I think the 28mm handle better for pure road 
riding with fast twisty descents. The 28mm have a sharper response to 
steering while still retaining the solid straight line stability. If I want 
the best handling I've had on this bike thus far, I put these on. I inflate 
these at about 60F 70R PSI.

The 32 EL tires feel slightly more squirrely and less sure footed when 
inflated to the slightly lower pressures that give the best ride quality. 
If I pump them up more than that to compensate, the ride quality diminishes 
to the point that I might as well be rolling on the 28mm anyway. I will 
say, though, that in less demanding conditions the 32 EL do feel really 
nice and seem to have very low rolling resistance. If I'm riding longer 
distances with lots of straight line riding with rough or smooth surfaces, 
these are perfect. I run these about 45F 60R

As a side note, the Jack Brown Greens on the same bike and wheels feel even 
more stable (less wanting to turn in) and are super cushy (assuming proper 
low pressures) when compared to the others above. I think these have the 
best ride quality of the three. They are also noticeably heavier and make 
the bike feel, to me, less sporty and more ponderous, but have more of that 
plow-through-stuff feeling which is actually kind of nice when I'm not 
concerned with speed. They stabilize the bike when I'm using a saddle bag 
and feel nice when commuting, but do feel like they spin up more slowly 
when accelerating from intersections. They just barely fit under SKS 
fenders on my Roadeo. I personally would not choose these if a light, 
sporty feel is desired, but other factors such as body and cargo weight 
play a role too. I run these only slightly less than the GB 32 EL at about 
40F 55R. They just feel really sluggish to me if they get any lower.

The amount of flats I get seems about the same for all three models. Maybe 
slightly more on the Jack Brown Greens if there's a difference.

On Thursday, August 13, 2015 at 10:30:46 AM UTC-7, Minh wrote:

Don,

 

you're killing me with this praise of the GB Cerfs, i have a pair in the 
box waiting to be mounted!  though why only 28mm?  if 28mm is good 32 is 
better?  

 

In my case i max out at 28, so no other option, i really need to get these 
mounted while the weather is nice.

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Re: [RBW] Shimano Dura Ace 7800 Bar End Pods and Silver Shifters

[Paul G]

No, Jim. Sorry.

On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 2:21:04 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:

 are you looking to sell the D/A shifters sans pods?


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[RBW] Re: Shimano Dura Ace 7800 Bar End Pods and Silver Shifters

[Paul G]

Good stuff, Dave. Thank you for your input.

Paul

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[RBW] Shimano Dura Ace 7800 Bar End Pods and Silver Shifters

[Paul G]

I have Dura Ace 7800 10-speed bar end shifters on my handlebar. I've been 
using them in friction mode lately and have decided I'd like to give the 
Silver Shifters a try since the Shimano's friction mode leaves something to 
be desired in terms of smoothness compared to Power Ratchets. I wonder if 
it's really a backup to the indexed mode in case of failure or bad 
adjustment.

My question: Will the Silver shifters mount directly to the 7800 bar end 
pods' stock bosses?

I'd rather just get the downtube versions and reuse the 7800 bar end pods 
instead of having to redo the whole installation, re-tape, etc.

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[RBW] Re: Shimano Dura Ace 7800 Bar End Pods and Silver Shifters

[Paul G]

I realized how impatient I sounded after re-reading my post. I didn't ride 
my bike to work today so I can't take a peek until I get home.

In any case, going on memory, I think you are right about these older pods 
not have the bump...and, of course, I'll know for sure when I get home.

Thanks, Bill.

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[RBW] Re: Shimano Dura Ace 7800 Bar End Pods and Silver Shifters

[Paul G]

Thank you for that comprehensive answer, Bill. I have not taken the 
Shimanos apart yet and wasn't observant to the internal washer details when 
I installed them so I cannot verify anything at this time. However, since 
these are from the 7800 era, the design dates back to 2003 or so.

Do you know if these are old enough to not have a little semicircular bump?

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[RBW] Re: Homer in green?!

[Paul G]

That shade of green is as gorgeous as it gets.

On Monday, August 10, 2015 at 1:41:25 PM UTC-7, Eric wrote:

 Super great color...anyone know what it's called? 

 https://www.flickr.com/photos/bethness/20446965925/in/pool-rivendell/


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[RBW] Re: my new Roadeo

[Paul G]

I'm sure all would agree that pictures are mandatory! ;-)

28mm Grand Bois tires on the Roadeo are my favorites for sporty handling 
during fast, twisty descents. 23mm rims.

I've also tried Jack Brown Greens. They give a more sure-footed stable feel 
for city commuting with a saddle bag but are too stable feeling for me on 
twisty descents. They also roll noticeably (to me) slower, but gain that 
plow through stuff feeling that is really nice.

I currently have 30mm GB Cypres Extra Legers on the Roadeo. They feel like 
they roll the fastest and smoothest with the most vibration damping but the 
sidewalls are really fragile. I accidentally rubbed a sidewall against a 
rough asphalt curb and ruined a virtually new rear tire that way. There's a 
durability tradeoff, but they are really fast feeling and smooth...but I 
still like the handling feel of the 28's mentioned above better I think.

Paul

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[RBW] Re: Finished Sam Hillborne build

[Paul G]

A head turner for sure!

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[RBW] Re: 'Fat tires' featured on front page of Sac Bee

[Paul G]

What a refreshing story. Who bets that the author rides Grand Bois or 
Compass tires??? :-)

On Sunday, May 10, 2015 at 2:01:51 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote:

 http://www.sacbee.com/news/local/article20563743.html

 This Saturday's Sac Bee had a front-page article about road racers going 
 from 19 mm to 25 mm tires, with a name-check from none other than Mr. 
 Heine. 

 Of course just Amgen-related, but pretty esoteric fare for the Bee, even 
 on a Saturday.


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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for rear derailers?

[Paul G]

Just a plain ol' Shimano 105 5701 short cage on the Roadeo. It shifts into 
a 30t large cog on the cassette.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Racers want fatter tires

[Paul G]

Yeah, I had forgotten how tubulars allow lower pressures than equivalently 
sized clinchers. That explains, at least partially, why wider tires are not 
being used in the pro peloton. The extra weight of a fatter tire becomes a 
hindrance to the multiple accelerations a racer has to make so the lightest 
tire they can get away with makes sense.

Your 33mm tubulars must be like a Tempurpedic mattress! Don't fall asleep 
while riding!

On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 11:02:08 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Somewhere out there i remember seeing a slow-mo video of tires rolling 
 over the cobbles at Paris Roubaix. There was a lot of 'straight to the rim' 
 impact happening. I think the tubular choice has more to do with avoiding 
 flats and reducing rotational weight than anything. 

 I ride FMB cx tubulars, 33mm, and I can definitely say they are like 
 riding on a cloud, but that is significantly more volume!

 On Mon, Apr 6, 2015 at 12:24 PM, Brewster Fong bfd...@gmail.com 
 javascript: wrote:


 On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 7:22:55 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

  It's absolute madness to me that some guys run 23/25s!

  
 I don't know. Most of the racers ride on tubular tires. If you listen to 
 all the tubular fanatics, nothing rides more smoothly than tubulars and 
 even at 23/25mm width, they're way more comfortable than the average 
 clincher tire. So, would a 700x25 tubular tire at say 80-90 psi be as 
 comfortable?  Of course, the 30mm dugast tires that Specialized and others 
 used in PR are tubulars, so they would be even more comfortable! Good Luck! 
  


 On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 1:22:31 AM UTC-5, Paul G wrote:

 Race mechanic, Rob Geysen, wishes his team's race bikes had clearance 
 for tires wider than 28mm at today's Tour Of Flanders. Will race bikes be 
 designed for fat tires (again) in the future? 

 http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/wider-is-better-
 at-flanders-43995/

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[RBW] Racers want fatter tires

[Paul G]

Race mechanic, Rob Geysen, wishes his team's race bikes had clearance for tires 
wider than 28mm at today's Tour Of Flanders. Will race bikes be designed for 
fat tires (again) in the future?

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/wider-is-better-at-flanders-43995/

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[RBW] Re: Racers want fatter tires

[Paul G]

Yes, they used a 30mm in the rear, but only a 28mm in front. I wonder if 
fork clearance prevented the use of a 30mm in front and, had there been 
sufficient clearance, they would have used a 30mm up front too.

23/25mm is indeed madness as is the lack of clearance on the race bikes 
that are developed specifically for Tour of Flanders/Paris Roubaix. I also 
wonder if it would be a detriment to offer standard reach caliper 
clearance on a race bike versus a close clearance bike of a rival in the 
peloton.

Here's an image of that 30mm rear tire on Niki Terpstra's Specialized 
Roubaix 
http://cdn.mos.bikeradar.com/images/news/2014/04/13/1397406577449-1icum51yozuvc-500-70.jpg.
 
Notice the brake pad at the bottom of the caliper slot.


On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 7:22:55 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:

 Last year at Paris Roubaix, Quickstep were running 30mm dugast tubulars. 
 There are occasionally guys who race cross bikes too. A 30mm slick seems 
 like it would be a perfect tire for that race. It's absolute madness to me 
 that some guys run 23/25s!

 On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 1:22:31 AM UTC-5, Paul G wrote:

 Race mechanic, Rob Geysen, wishes his team's race bikes had clearance for 
 tires wider than 28mm at today's Tour Of Flanders. Will race bikes be 
 designed for fat tires (again) in the future? 


 http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article/wider-is-better-at-flanders-43995/



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[RBW] Re: Cambium vs. Flyer question

[Paul G]

The differences in material also make a difference in how the saddles feel. 
I think the Cambium is more prone to chafing due to more friction in the 
saddle. I tends to grab clothing more which can rub it against skin while 
pedaling. Leather allows clothing to slide across its surface more reducing 
this effect. The Cambium (non-carved tested) does have a good amount of 
flex and vibration damping though. That aspect is very similar to B17. But 
it seems the pressure against my sit bones is fairly hard and it will never 
improve like a leather saddle.

Since I only weight around 160, I've never tried a Flyer version.

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[RBW] Re: Ram versus Roadeo; trade?

[Paul G]

I weigh about 160 and use about 60 front and 70 rear on 23mm rims. I subtract 
about 15 psi each for the Jack Brown greens, but go longer between pumpings so 
they end up lower eventually.

The GB 28's are fantastic and I'd like to try the 32mm versions or Compass 
equivalents eventually. 

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[RBW] Re: Hilsen Overhaul

[Paul G]

Nice! How do those Compass tires compare to the JB greens?

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[RBW] Re: FIRST RIDE ON MY B-17 standard

[Paul G]

Jon, how upright do you sit on your bike most of the time? I'm trying to 
get a feel for how crouched of a riding position a B17 can handle. I 
sometimes ride really crouched with a horizontal back or sit up with my 
back at 55-50 degrees if I'm putting along slowly with the family and I'd 
like a saddle that can handle that range.

Paul

On Wednesday, October 8, 2014 2:55:22 PM UTC-7, Jon in the foothills of 
Central Colorado wrote:

 I did a lot of reading about setting up a Brooks Saddle.A majority of 
 people said tip the nose of the saddle up. I did just a bit. Went for a 30 
 mile ride.
 The saddles positioned as far back as possible. I was expecting pain and 
 discomfort. Didn't happen.I did experience sliding forward into the 
 hammock.
 Started to feel some discomfort at the end of the ride. but bearable.
 I got home and tipped up the nose a bit more.Took it for a short spin..No 
 slinding forward. Felt very comfortable
 I'm very pleased. And what a piece of art and craftsmanship! I got the 
 Honey color.Just beautiful!.


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[RBW] Re: FIRST RIDE ON MY B-17 standard

[Paul G]

I do ride with Noodle bars at saddle height on my bicycle in question. 
However, the amount of torso angle I ride with can vary significantly 
depending on the type of riding I'm doing. I get as low as horizontal when 
riding hard and fast with my arms bent in the hooks even though the bars 
are at saddle height. When in the tops, the Noodle bars can allow a fairly 
upright position when at saddle height due to the use of a shortish stem 
that's required by virtue of the long ramps/reach of the Noodles and modern 
Campy levers.

Since we know the B17 works well for a moderate back angle, how does it 
fair when crouched low when riding hard as described above?

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[RBW] Re: FIRST RIDE ON MY B-17 standard

[Paul G]

Thanks for your input, Mojo. Much appreciated. 

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[RBW] Re: looking for opinions on the Rivendell Roadeo

[Paul G]

Mine is a 61cm and weighs about 23-23.5 lbs.

It is equipped with:
- Nitto Mark's Bar 42mm
- Nitto Technomic Deluxe 110mm
- Campagnolo Veloce Brake/Shifters
- IRD threaded headset
- Nitto Jaguar Seatpost 250mm
- Regal saddle
- Tektro R539 brakes
- King cages
- Sugino Mighty Tour 48/34 crankset with 105 non-carbon clipless pedals
- Tange bottom bracket
- 105 5700 derailleurs w/Jtek Shiftmate
- Custom wheels with 105 32 hole hubs and H Plus Son TB14 rims
- Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires
- Cat Eye Strada Wireless computer

I didn't spec for light weight much at all; it weighs what it does based on 
the classy shiny components that I desired. In order to achieve a lighter 
weight I would have had to make do with more modern-looking black 
components, especially for the crank with its large hollow spindle, 
external bearings, etc. and a racier wheelset. I also wanted a 48t large 
chainring which left me with even fewer options. I bet the decision to go 
with a threaded fork/quill stem also boosted the weight a bit. But, boy, 
does it look classic!

This is the easiest bike to ride no hands that I've tried to date. I tracks 
super straight, yet turns in very quickly at speed...all at the same time. 
My brother is significantly more experienced than I am, but I can out 
descend him on the Roadeo any time with little effort. He's just not 
confident going downhill on his *M*odern *C*arbon fiber *R*oad *B*ike; it's 
too twitchy and unstable for to feel good to him going down, but he 
destroys me going uphill (not implying it's due to a lighter bike; he 
weighs 35-40 lbs more than me).

The feeling going 40+ mph downhill is just awesome. There's no fear 
whatsoever which is not so with the other road bikes I've had. This frees 
me up to simply enjoy the descent. I do descend in the drops almost all the 
time and vary the tuck to control speed a bit. It feels more stable that 
way to me. Just last week I did a 4 or 5 mile 6% descent at about 38 mph 
average and kept thinking how cool the handling, stability and ride quality 
was. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Blug bike....sweet Roadeo

[Paul G]

I've never used a Columbine Quikchainger before, but an seat stay chain 
hanger peg requires the chain to be manually put on the peg. That means 
using a tool or stick or your fingers to do it. Assuming the peg is well 
positioned and your rear derailleur can take up all the slack when the 
wheel is removed, the chain will be under some tension which will hold it 
firmly in place. I usually put the chain on the peg before and after 
removing the rear wheel so the chain never rests on the right chain stay or 
any other part of the bike except the peg.

If the Quikchainger keeps the chain taut when the wheel is removed, I'd say 
it's more convenient since you never have to touch the chain at all. Others 
who've used it can confirm the facts.

For me, it's all about keeping the chain under tension when the rear wheel 
is removed so the chain doesn't flop around, get my bike greasy, etc.

Paul

On Friday, July 18, 2014 2:51:06 AM UTC-7, Tim wrote:

 I bought a Roadeo from a list member and it has a catcher on the chainstay 
 and I love it. When I get my Hilsen repainted I was planning on having one 
 brazed on. I'd never seen one before. What is better or worse, seat stay or 
 chainstay?

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[RBW] Re: Blug bike....sweet Roadeo

[Paul G]

I'm guessing the fork braze-ons are custom because there's also a Columbine 
Quikchainger on the right chainstay which is also not standard fare. I 
almost ordered a Quikchainger for my Roadeo but decided on a chain hanger 
peg on the seatstay instead in the end along with downtube shifter bosses. 
The peg was perfectly positioned by Waterford and is very convenient when 
laying my bike down with the wheels removed in the back of my hatchback; 
the chain doesn't flop around and get things greasy.

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[RBW] Re: New Head-Badge Poster!

[Paul G]

Very cool. Thanks for sharing this!

Paul 

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Re: [RBW] Roadeo first ride impressions

[Paul G]

Here's are a few more pictures of the Roadeo from last weekend while out on 
the open road https://app.box.com/s/85g0h65aqow3rusz1f2y. Sorry for the 
slightly soft images. My camera lens was covered in pocket lint; I should 
have wiped it off...but I didn't.

Paul

On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 5:05:55 PM UTC-8, Michael wrote:

 Congrats, Paul.
 What a great bike!
 If you get a chance, post some more pics. We don't see too many Roadeos 
 around here.

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Re: [RBW] Roadeo first ride impressions

[Paul G]

Ron, that Moser is gorgeous! Very nice. 

Paul

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[RBW] Roadeo first ride impressions

[Paul G]

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0fVUs_He3w4/Uumds2_4ROI/ACw/KAjbo73YTK0/s1600/DSC_2269.jpg
It's taken a long time for me to do a proper ride after building up this 
fine frameset due to poor air quality in my area. I was finally able to 
ride it about 35 miles on flat and rolling terrain with a couple stiff, 
8-9% climbs of a mile or so.

You can refer to this other 
posthttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/nDgzvehsQCw/Na3a5dUgNG0JI
 made in a previous thread regarding build details. It is setup in a 
minimal way for pure road riding with the only accessories being bottle 
cages, a Mark's Toolwrap, and lights as needed. I have a wireless computer 
for it, but have not installed it yet...and kinda don't want to in some 
ways for aesthetic reasons; the Dream bars and Nitto Deluxe stem look so 
classic without the computer. It weighs about 23 lbs. with saddle, cages 
and pedals.

I'm 43 years old, 5' 11 and weigh 158 lbs. PBH is 89cm, so a 61cm frame is 
what I chose according to standard Rivendell sizing conventions. 

I'm just getting back into shape after a year and a half of poor health. My 
other road bike which the Roadeo effectively replaces is a 58cm 1985 Team 
Fuji with vintage components.

I think the Hallmark of this bike is the fantastic descending. It is so 
stable and intuitive that it's just pure joy to fly down fast instead of 
white-knuckled. Great stuff! The bike is quite stiff in the bottom bracket 
and has that surging feeling when pedaling hard that modern bikes have and 
that the old Fuji does not. The chain stays are fairly beefy too for a 
steel bike. The ride quality is quite firm, but not punishing at all (28mm 
Grand Bois Cerf, 80 psi rear, 70 psi front). It totally fits the sporty 
nature of the bike and has lots of lively, low-frequency vibrations that 
are organic in nature. Whether that's from the wheels, tires, or frame, I 
don't know, but it's really nice.

My new Riv-approved riding position is very comfortable with the bars right 
at saddle height at the moment. It seems to provide a good compromise 
between light and hard pedaling effort. I'll be using it to train for my 
first organized century since the summer of 2011 and I think it'll be a 
spectacular bicycle for me!

Paul

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Re: [RBW] Roadeo first ride impressions

[Paul G]

Patrick Moore,

My Fuji has friction downtube shifters (I'm quite comfortable with them) 
and I did custom-order downtube shifter bosses for the Roadeo to allow the 
option if I so deem that necessary in the future. I'm definitely not 
married to the Ergos by any means, but I got a great deal on them and they 
certainly are very comfortable...and look snazzy too. :-)

Paul

On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 4:37:26 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:

 A very nice and not at all excessively minimalist build. Congratulations I 
 rejoice in bikes that are not laden with accessories (though 2/4 of mine 
 are just so laden). The only black mark is that it doesn't have dt 
 shifters. 

 Patrick left 43 behind long ago Moore, who doesn't mind that at all, at 
 all!


 On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 5:33 PM, Paul G pauld...@gmail.com 
 javascript:wrote:


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-0fVUs_He3w4/Uumds2_4ROI/ACw/KAjbo73YTK0/s1600/DSC_2269.jpg
 It's taken a long time for me to do a proper ride after building up this 
 fine frameset due to poor air quality in my area. I was finally able to 
 ride it about 35 miles on flat and rolling terrain with a couple stiff, 
 8-9% climbs of a mile or so.

 You can refer to this other 
 posthttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/nDgzvehsQCw/Na3a5dUgNG0JI
  made in a previous thread regarding build details. It is setup in a 
 minimal way for pure road riding with the only accessories being bottle 
 cages, a Mark's Toolwrap, and lights as needed. I have a wireless computer 
 for it, but have not installed it yet...and kinda don't want to in some 
 ways for aesthetic reasons; the Dream bars and Nitto Deluxe stem look so 
 classic without the computer. It weighs about 23 lbs. with saddle, cages 
 and pedals.

 I'm 43 years old, 5' 11 and weigh 158 lbs. PBH is 89cm, so a 61cm frame 
 is what I chose according to standard Rivendell sizing conventions. 

 I'm just getting back into shape after a year and a half of poor health. 
 My other road bike which the Roadeo effectively replaces is a 58cm 1985 
 Team Fuji with vintage components.

 I think the Hallmark of this bike is the fantastic descending. It is so 
 stable and intuitive that it's just pure joy to fly down fast instead of 
 white-knuckled. Great stuff! The bike is quite stiff in the bottom bracket 
 and has that surging feeling when pedaling hard that modern bikes have and 
 that the old Fuji does not. The chain stays are fairly beefy too for a 
 steel bike. The ride quality is quite firm, but not punishing at all (28mm 
 Grand Bois Cerf, 80 psi rear, 70 psi front). It totally fits the sporty 
 nature of the bike and has lots of lively, low-frequency vibrations that 
 are organic in nature. Whether that's from the wheels, tires, or frame, I 
 don't know, but it's really nice.

 My new Riv-approved riding position is very comfortable with the bars 
 right at saddle height at the moment. It seems to provide a good compromise 
 between light and hard pedaling effort. I'll be using it to train for my 
 first organized century since the summer of 2011 and I think it'll be a 
 spectacular bicycle for me!

 Paul

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 Albuquerque, NM, USA
  
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[RBW] Re: Roadeo first ride impressions

[Paul G]

Deacon,

I've thought about that too and experienced that very thing on my first 
ride. There is freedom indeed!

Paul

On Wednesday, January 29, 2014 4:40:16 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:

 Fantastic, Paul!

 You mention not wanting to install the computer for aesthetic reasons. 
 I've intentionally not installed a computer also, and doing so has brought 
 amazing freedom. I do not feel a pressure to push a bit harder and go 19 
 mph or focus on the milage ticking by. Instead I enjoy the ride, focusing 
 on going however fast I want and the wonder and beauty around me. I learned 
 that a lot with running, and it transferred right over to the bike when I 
 got it almost two years ago.

 Ride with abandon!

 With abandon,
 Patrick


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Re: [RBW] Roadeo first ride impressions

[Paul G]

I cannot verify this, but I read (on the internet) that the Regal saddle was 
modeled after the Brooks Team Professional (which I have never tried). 

Anyhow, the Regal is nicely made and thinly padded with a vintage shape that's 
not unlike a narrow Brooks. I'd say that padded cycling shorts are essential 
for me with this saddle and that's what I had planned for from the outset so no 
disadvantage there. It is a very firm saddle but very supportive for me. I did 
have some sit bone tenderness after my initial 35 mile ride, but that's not 
surprising to me since I haven't been riding much at all. 

I picked the Regal because my Public R-16 has a Regal copy, but with more 
padding (which works well with normal clothes) and I liked the shape a lot. The 
real Regal matches its shape pretty closely. 

Paul

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frameset has arrived!

[Paul G]

Patrick, exactly what you said. It needed to be opened up a bit as the seat 
post would not insert. Just the tiniest of amounts and, yes, this is quite 
normal as you allude to.

Paul

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frameset has arrived!

[Paul G]

Okay, I've posted a few more images for you all to check out if you'd 
likehttps://app.box.com/files/0/f/1430336408
. 

I cannot comment about ride so much because I haven't been able to give it 
a proper ride due to poor air quality in my area. So frustrating. However, 
I do believe my stem extension might be a centimeter too long in casually 
pedaling up and down my street. That may need swapping down the line.

Here are a few details about the current build:

   - Nitto 176 Dream Bars
   - Nitto Deluxe stem
   - Nitto Jaguar seatpost
   - Sugino Mighty Tour Cranks with 48x34t chain rings
   - Campagnolo Veloce brake/shift levers
   - Shimano 105 derailleurs with Ultegra 12-30 10-speed cassette
   - Jtek Shiftmate to allow Campy shifters with Shimano drivetrain
   - H Plus Son TB14 rims laced to Ultegra hubs with Wheelsmith double 
   butted spokes
   - Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires
   - Regal Saddle

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Roadeo frameset has arrived!

[Paul G]

I goofed on the photos link. Try this 
onehttps://app.box.com/s/85g0h65aqow3rusz1f2y
.

Paul

On Sunday, January 5, 2014 4:11:12 PM UTC-8, Paul G wrote:

 Okay, I've posted a few more images for you all to check out if you'd 
 likehttps://app.box.com/files/0/f/1430336408
 . 

 I cannot comment about ride so much because I haven't been able to give it 
 a proper ride due to poor air quality in my area. So frustrating. However, 
 I do believe my stem extension might be a centimeter too long in casually 
 pedaling up and down my street. That may need swapping down the line.

 Here are a few details about the current build:

- Nitto 176 Dream Bars
- Nitto Deluxe stem
- Nitto Jaguar seatpost
- Sugino Mighty Tour Cranks with 48x34t chain rings
- Campagnolo Veloce brake/shift levers
- Shimano 105 derailleurs with Ultegra 12-30 10-speed cassette
- Jtek Shiftmate to allow Campy shifters with Shimano drivetrain
- H Plus Son TB14 rims laced to Ultegra hubs with Wheelsmith double 
butted spokes
- Grand Bois Cerf 28mm tires
- Regal Saddle



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[RBW] Re: New Roadeo frameset has arrived!

[Paul G]

The build is done except bar tape.  The seat tube and head tube had to be 
reamed but all the threads were perfect.  The RD hanger was perfectly aligned 
as were the rear dropouts, but the front dropouts needed a very slight 
tweaking.  I'm really tired and will post photos as soon as I get them taken.  
Good night!

Paul

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[RBW] New Roadeo frameset has arrived!

[Paul G]

Okay folks, you asked for photos when it arrived so your wish is my 
commandhttps://app.box.com/s/85g0h65aqow3rusz1f2y
.

I had a couple add-ons brazed on in the form of downtube shifter bosses and 
a seat stay-mounted chain hanger to keep the chain secure when the rear 
wheel is removed like 80's steel bikes used to have. The lead time was 
about 4 months even with added braze-on.

This frame really is beautiful in person. The clichè that pictures don't do 
justice is true here. They call it white, but it's actually an off-white, 
almost cream color in person and it looks great with the red accents!

The build will begin Saturday and I'll try to take some pictures of the 
progress.

Regards-
Paul

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[RBW] Re: Classy Brown Handlebar Tape

[Paul G]

The Public bar tape is padded with a foam-like material. A bit like cork 
actually. The Fizik Microtex Tape I've used is very thin and not padded. 

They do look similar though.

Paul

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