Also impact driver or impact wrench? And would a cordless version handle the
glue?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 21, 2021, at 11:10 AM, Andrey Sychev wrote:
>
> Thanks for the information - are there any pictures? Are you saying you can
> access heating elements just by turning over the
Thanks for the information - are there any pictures? Are you saying you can
access heating elements just by turning over the machine? Is removing a brew
boiler on option? That would be way easier to ship to WLL and or replace. I
have yet to drain it (nut on top of the group head?) but think
Thanks, will give that a try. Why would there be bubbles all of the sudden
after so many years?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 16, 2021, at 2:00 PM, Ira wrote:
>
>
> Hello 'Andrey,
>
>
>
> Saturday, October 16, 2021, 10:17:31 AM, you wrote:
>
>
>
> Over the last couple of days i
I let the clear glass sit and no bubbles - in fact a little white sludge on the
bottom. Is water from water dispenser pulled from a different boiler? That
water is perfectly clear. Of course I have yet to drain that boiler.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 16, 2021, at 10:39 PM, DioKay wrote:
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>>> On Oct 17, 2021, at 1:05 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
>>> wrote:
>>>
>> I let the clear glass sit and no bubbles - in fact a little white sludge on
>> the bottom. Is water from water dispenser pulled from a different boil
nut. You could probably get it loose with a ½” breaker bar with an
> iron pipe attached for extra leverage.
>
> Short answer, it’s a serious task. I’ll let others answer the question about
> descaling.
>
> JP
>
> From: 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
> Sent: Tuesday, October 19
Hi group, I am a proud owner of the original Brewtus 2 after many years of
reliable service. Last few years I have been using distilled water exclusively
and all through the years low hardness water has been used. Over the last
couple of days i noticed that water from the group head turned
I now notice the brew boiler struggling to stay at the temperature and slight
crackling of the machine. Any suggestions or WLL overhaul is required?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 17, 2021, at 1:05 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
> wrote:
>
> I let the clear glass sit and no bubbl
; happily NO MORE EXPOS FOR SALE !!!
>>
>>> On Sat, Oct 23, 2021 at 6:33 PM 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
>>> wrote:
>>> Thanks for the tip. Aside of driving to Rochester, is taking brew boiler
>>> off the machine and shipping it an option on ear
t other than
> that it should work.
>
> Get BlueMail for Android
>> On Dec 29, 2021, at 11:25 AM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
>> wrote:
>> Thanks, will something like that work? How much do I put to get the right
>> concentration? I plan to pour hot water throu
Did you use sealant that came with replacement element in a small plastic bag?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 24, 2021, at 2:14 AM, Eric Christoffersen wrote:
>
> Well color me surprised, I thought the holes were for design but didn’t look
> usable. Ok, just verified, my socket is too large to
021, at 3:55 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
>> wrote:
>> Thanks Kevin. I was finally able to rip it out, this it how it looks out
>> attached. There is quite a bit of white stuff that leaked out and some dirt
>> bits in the boiler though as I look through the o
Dec 28, 2021, at 3:55 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
>> wrote:
>> Thanks Kevin. I was finally able to rip it out, this it how it looks out
>> attached. There is quite a bit of white stuff that leaked out and some dirt
>> bits in the boiler though as I look through the o
Thanks for the tip. Aside of driving to Rochester, is taking brew boiler off
the machine and shipping it an option on early B2? Any tips on reaching Todd S.?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 23, 2021, at 12:41 PM, Richard wrote:
>
>
> Some older Brewtus II were manufactured with epoxy thread
Also, with respect to the impact wrench - will cordless 18v or so will do it?
Socket is 1 7/16” and the depth doesn’t matter, is that right? Thanks.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 12, 2021, at 4:53 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
> wrote:
>
> I received a self ranging $30 mul
h water, and
>>> plug it in.
>>>
>>> 7) Turn on the machine, and wait to see if the GFCI trips. If it DOES NOT
>>> trip, then the element which you unplugged is the bad element.
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>>>
I didn’t realize i would have to hold the boiler while undoing the heating
element through the hole but guess it makes sense. I guess emptying the brew
boiler prior to removal is another step.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 14, 2021, at 12:30 PM, Kevin Maciunas wrote:
>
> On 14/12/21 5:38 pm,
Got that. Is this Teflon tape or sealant or sealant on top of tape?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 10, 2022, at 9:01 PM, Kevin Maciunas wrote:
>
> On 11/1/22 10:23 am, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
>> Got the citric acid, will do 45 min hot water with 1-2 tablespoons per l
Thanks for sharing. Hopefully installing PID will bring me up to date.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 13, 2022, at 6:50 PM, Ira wrote:
>
>
> Hello 'Andrey,
>
>
>
> Sunday, March 13, 2022, 1:17:23 PM, you wrote:
>
>
>
> Seems I need to test performance of static relay so diagnose machine
were inconclusive
at best but i may have to invest into a better thermometer…
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 10, 2022, at 6:41 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
> wrote:
>
> Thanks, I’ll give it a try. I was making coffee this morning and the
> temperature on the display stayed pu
works with the
existing SSR that is likely malfunctioning according to WLL support and will
require replacement anyway.
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 13, 2022, at 6:22 PM, Kevin Maciunas wrote:
>
>> On 14/3/22 06:47, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus wrote:
>> Seems I need to test per
I looked again and it looks many folks upgraded original B2 control box to
Gicar brand, looking something like this: Do you open the box to get to the
relays? How do you test them unless they are burned which I don’t think they
are in my case as I continue to use the machine and temperature
Hi group. I recently replaced brew boiler heating element on my original
Brewtus 2. With new heating element installed and replaced vibratory pump,
deaerator and OPV I observe the following symptom: when machine is turned on
initially, pump turns on as usual, machine heats up to set 93C
Both brew and steam boiler water feels hot. Hard to tell the exact temperature
without a digital thermometer though.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 9, 2022, at 5:11 PM, Ira wrote:
>
>
> Hello 'Andrey,
>
>
>
> Wednesday, March 9, 2022, 1:10:40 PM, you wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi group. I recently
I was leaning in the bad probe direction. I did not get a good looks as I was
replacing the busted heating element but entire top of the boiler was covered
in insulation powder. I just had to replace the line to the brew pressure gauge
as it was clogged by this stuff. Do you have the part
An update - it seems the longer machine sits idle but powered in the lower the
temperature drops. After another 45 min it dropped to 50c…
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 9, 2022, at 4:10 PM, Andrey Sychev wrote:
>
> Hi group. I recently replaced brew boiler heating element on my original
>
Thesis part number came from someone doing Minore rebuild. Does that look like
a valid probe replacement?
I can therefore recommend that RS part number 697-4562 (AVX NJ28MA0103HCC 10k
thermistor) is a valid replacement NTC thermistor for the temperature sensor
used on these devices.
Thanks for details. I think I may have failed to mention - looks like
temperature drop occurs only when machine sits idle. Initially when turned on
it gets to set 93c but begins to drop gradually if unused. Flushing a couple of
oz through the brew boiler gets it back to target temperature. Is
Found that native Expobar temperature probe on Amazon. Does that look like
something that would work on Brewtus 2?
EXPOBAR 60100076 The temperature probe TEMPERATURE PROBE 1/4"M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKZB66L/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_glt_i_6M3SPDNKKTRZ17JAXXFK?_encoding=UTF8=1
Sent from my
True, in fact they don’t list a probe for AKO controller at all. I reached out
to their support but so far they have been less than helpful. Meanwhile I
ordered a thermometer that screws into the brew head to monitor temperature at
the puck.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 12, 2022, at 7:53 PM,
Basically WLL latest recommendation is upgrading to PID or replace the relay
now and upgrade to PID when it’s in stock. What’s been the consensus on PID
upgrade?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 12, 2022, at 9:06 PM, 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
> wrote:
>
> True, in fact the
Thanks, I’ll give it a try. I was making coffee this morning and the
temperature on the display stayed put after a short flush. Hard to say if it
was 93 though. Will get a thermometer and check before messing with replacement.
> On Mar 10, 2022, at 2:20 PM, Rob wrote:
>
> Re read your post. I
Hi group, I am in the process of PID kit installation into my Brewtus 2. You
need to drill holes for static relay and I wonder if I need a special kind of
drill bit for the thick steel bottom of the machine? Any issues and tips with
that part? Not exactly sure what diameter too. Thanks.
Sent
Thanks for the instructions Brian.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 3, 2022, at 5:58 AM, Mike Endacott wrote:
>
>
> Nice set of instructions Brian.
>
>> On Sun, 3 Apr 2022 at 06:58, Brian wrote:
>> The bottom of my machine is stainless steel, if yours is the same here Are
>> some tips you
Thanks Kevin. I think I may have left the boiler sitting opened a bit too long
so some of the white stuff dried. WLL said it’s acrylic insulation from inside
the heating element that self destructed. I used chopsticks to get some of that
stuff up and flipped machine over to drain. Majority of
000/836201-expobar-minore-brewtus-ii-repair-rebuild
>
> Cheers,
> Aaron
>
>
>
>> On Tue, Jan 18, 2022 at 9:16 AM 'Andrey Sychev' via Brewtus
>> wrote:
>> So I installed the new heating element, checked resistance and continuity
>> again (everything ch
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