tion on various sailboats.
>
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, June 27, 2020 7:24 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
&g
> of jatoba wood. Looks to me that what i need is pretty simple but a
> critical part of the hatch nonetheless.
>
> On Sat, Jun 27, 2020 at 2:37 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> One of ours has been replaced with a similar knob, but w
One of ours has been replaced with a similar knob, but with a different
knurling pattern, so I suspect it's a later version from A The old knob
is in a parts bin, but I haven't checked to see what is wrong with it. The
hatch is working fine aside from a few drips in heavy rain, so I've just
left
My 35 used to have this, but the old pump was removed (needs a new
diaphragm). It was plumbed into the sink drain; to be safe, you'll want to
place the tee above the water line, and add an anti-siphon loop to avoid
the foot pump flooding the boat if something fails.
One of these days I'd like to
On Mon, Jun 22, 2020 at 2:00 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> It always starts very nicely. I was running at around 2900 for hours.
> Also had a bit of a throttle issue where it would slip down to lower rpm's
> and I had to hold it to keep it above 2500. But I
Black smoke is an indication of over-fueling (which could be due to load -
over propped/fouled bottom), poor injection spray pattern/worn pump, low
compression, or an intake restriction or dirty air filter. Diesels need
lots of air, especially at higher RPM, so a clean filter is important.
--
My 35-2 is similar to Len's 37+, except that I just have an A/B/both switch
to join two banks of two 6V golf cart batteries each, no start battery. The
solar controller is connected via a 30A fuse to the main positive busbar
after the A/B switch. There is space for a 3rd bank, but I have removed
I can't help with the removal question, but one suggesting for reducing
rust on the bottom of the tanks: I cut lengths of rubber hose (fuel line or
similar) length wise and slid over the metal bottom rim of the tanks (after
painting them with 3 coats of Tremclad), which should hopefully reduce the
Thanks Nathan and Rob for the details on these. Unfortunately, mine are
completely gone, and it's hard to tell where they once were, although under
the right light I can see a few clues on the deck. I'm a bit done with boat
projects now after 4-5 months, but maybe next winter I'll investigate
I have a copy of the same letter that came with our 35-2, #270. I also have
a table showing the pressures vs lbs force. I'll try to remember to share
it.
Some great insight on this thread! Our backstay adjuster needs a rebuild,
and won't go beyond about 800psi, but that is still enough to make
Our 35-2 has plenty of creaks but she still feels tough. I understand the
grid reinforcement that C and most others switched to in the late
70s/early 80s is responsible for a lot of the stiffness of the later boats.
In our case, the tangs holding the top of the forward bulkheads to the deck
were
Possibly a bonding wire for the strut or a zinc to be hung off the stern?
Our 35 at one time had a wire to the strut bolts. It now has a wire leading
to a post on the aft deck, where I hang a large zinc over the stern
(attached via a wing nut to the post) while at dock or anchor. C
recommended
Can you share a photo of them? Probably different than those on my 35-2,
but I wouldn't mind replacing them with something a bit more robust. I have
seen mine under the Seadog name, and they are ok, but one is bent slightly,
so they could be a bit stronger. It probably doesn't help that the locker
What kind of controller? What was the battery voltage at the time? Most
controllers have screw in terminal blocks, which make it easy to check the
panel voltage at the controller, which should be around 18-20V. If not,
check the voltage right at the panel. If it differs, then there is a bad
Interesting about the 5/16 on the 30-1. My 35-2 are definitely 1/4", oval
head philips machine screws, and the 2" length sounds correct.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
___
Thanks
We just bought a Minn Kota trolling motor for our Walker Bay 8 hard dinghy.
As I didn't have time to source fancy batteries, I just got a Gr 24 deep
cycle lead acid for now. Planning to charge it using a smart 2/8/15A
charger powered by an inverter and our house bank (4 6V GC2 batteries),
which
On second look at your photo, it doesn't look like a 35, or if it is, your
sole is different. The area you have indicated as steel is I believe the
thick layers of glass that C used to reinforce the hull at each keel stud
in the earlier boats. The later boats seem to use a more modern grid
layout,
Is this a 35? Looks very similar to my '74 35 mk2, and yes it is wood, but
glassed to at least 1/2 way up, presumably on both sides, which should help
to protect it to a degree. I expect that replacing the wood will be a
rather big job due to limited access, and unless you cut into the liner,
Thanks for the link to Stan's grounding article. I have read it before, but
it was useful to do so again, as it highlighted a few things I will need to
check (and which my surveyor missed):
1. I believe my galvanic isolator is (and was) wired incorrectly. The shore
power ground goes to circuit
I'm curious why the engine shouldn't be used as the grounding point? Mine
isn't, but only because I wanted a central ground bus in the electrical
space.
In the rewire of our 35-2 that I just did, I built a ground busbar from
5/16" aluminum, installed two 5/16" main ground bolts, and 4 smaller
I used Dawn (green) this week simply because the stuff our club buys has
run out (they buy a 45g drum for $800, it is enviro safe and *very*
effective and concentrated, like one tsp in a bucket is plenty). The Dawn
seemed to work fairly well, but definitely not as concentrated as the good
stuff.
Not strictly related to exterior gelcoat (all mine has been painted), but I
have been amazed at the colour variations of the gelcoat on the interior
liners. Here are a few examples. One shows the area behind the portlight
trim pieces in the salon, and the other shows beneath two different head
An interesting post, as I am considering how and where to install the long
tracks I got to upgrade our 35mk2. So the small inner track allows one to
trim the genoa with more curve by bringing it inboard in lighter wind?
Currently, my genoa uses a block on the toerail, and the jib uses the
factory
Mine used one 1/4" bolt through flange landing on woodruff key, and two
additional 5/16" bolts on flange landing directly on prop shaft. I use PB
Blaster on each of the bolts, and carefully backed them out slowly (SS
bolts, steel one piece flange), which worked well after waiting a day or so
after
39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON
>
> On May 17, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will
> need new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure
&g
How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will
need new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure
if there is a source in Canada?), but is Dow 795 also suitable for the
frame to deck seal?
I'm thinking I will fill the void between the deck and
I've been thinking about making a siphon tube for this purpose. The boat we
did our course on last year used this method and it seemed very civilized
and spill resistant, as long as you normally carry fuel jugs, as we do.
Fill them on the dock, place aboard, then siphon into the tank at your
I've also got a household CO detector (mainly for the propane heater which
we no longer have), but have not had any false alarms. It is mounted just
above the outlet in the dinette, so about head level when sitting. We also
have two GC batteries under the nav table seat charging on solar, so
Not sure if this is common on Yanmars, but on VW diesels, a common source
of slow coolant leaks is the head gasket. There are a few places where
coolant passages can seep coolant into the combustion chamber, which occurs
during cooldown when the engine is stopped. During operation, the higher
If they are bronze, they might look nice if you can remove all the chrome
plating, maybe with a wire wheel and then a buffing wheel. If they're
brass, it's probably not worth the bother, as brass doesn't seem to hold up
as well.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
I can attest that Tuck Tape, used for taping vapour barrier seams, works
really well, perhaps too well, as it leaves some of the red colour behind.
I taped over my engine panel opening, and it was still held tightly after a
few months of winter rains, with no leaks. The red colour appears to come
Old cable generally makes a decent pull string :) ...assuming they're not
fastened in some inaccessible location.
I'm surprised at the current ratings for that 15ga wire, given how long the
run could be, although I suspect most N2K busses carry much less than the
maximum; otherwise the voltage
et
>
> On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 4:38 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not directly applicable to our C original electrical systems, which
>> seem to use either switches + glass fuses (like our 35-2), or early style
>> breakers, but
Not directly applicable to our C original electrical systems, which seem
to use either switches + glass fuses (like our 35-2), or early style
breakers, but just to be aware that there are now breakers that look
exactly like regular rocker switches, with or without an LED light inside.
The newer
I have two forestays with furlers, with the inner mounted about 18" lower
on the mast (and about 24" aft on the deck). Neither have restrainers that
I can see, and I only have wrapping issues if I forget to put a bit of
tension on the halyard before unfurling. With too much tension, the furler
may
The sound in my mast is not on windy night, but on very calm, quiet nights,
when the slightest movement of the boat will cause the wires to slowly rock
back and forth. Just rolling over in the v-berth on a still night is enough
to cause the slapping to begin. I have VHF, masthead wind sensor, and
Lots of good tips here, especially Rich's method of pre-installing machine
screws into the conduit. Just one thing I haven't seen mentioned is
regarding pull strings. No need to worry about putting them in place first,
as long as you have easy access to one end. Put the vac over the end of the
ad to research pvc pipe so I'm a little out of my
> element.
>
> Josh
>
> On Wed, Apr 8, 2020, 11:27 Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service
>> due to covid, i
I had hoped to pull our mast soon, but with the mast crane out of service
due to covid, it will have to wait. Some great info on this thread, so I
will save it.
One option for thinner PVC is to use white (water) PVC, which you can get
in a CL200 rating (at least in Canada) for light use; it is a
I don't know a lot about these, but will share some observations from when
we used a friend's buoy last year, which is in an area notorious for losing
boats:
I experimented with a few things, but the best option I came up with was a
nylon line from one bow cleat, through the buoy ring, then back
If those through-hulls are below the waterline, like cockpit drains, then I
highly recommend against that clear vinyl with coloured spiral hose. It was
used on my cockpit drains, and the moment I loosed the clamps it started to
leak. There were several cracks beneath the clamps in the spiral
Our club's latest update requests that we avoid using the foreshore
workshops unless it's an emergency, and the mast crane is off limits. As of
last week, I have been using the head on the boat exclusively, and the one
time I used the metal shop prior to the update, I brought my own safety
gear,
Looks like a nice device, but I'd prefer one that can tell me where where
the water is coming from after a brisk sail. After 30 years in IT building
redundant systems, I learned that it's often the simplest thing that fails,
and if you don't know what to do when it does (and it's backup also
Recently, someone asked me for photos of my propane lockers on Callisto.
Sorry, but I'm too tired to search for that email after spending a few
hours crawling under the cockpit sole cleaning and inspecting...
I thought they might be original, but they are most likely custom. In any
case, they
My gauge works somewhat, although it reads just over 3/4 when full, and
I've never run it empty, and have topped it off when the gauge reads 1/4
(only happened once). The gauge is old an of unknown make, so I will
probably replace it at some point, but I like the idea of a dipstick. Easy
to do, as
It's a shame the Covidiots are ruining it for those exercising caution. I
am continuing to work on my boat, but have no contact with anyone, and have
stopped used the washrooms at the club. There are a few of us using the
woodwork and metalwork shops, but never at the same time, and lots of
This thread reminds me that I still haven't finished fabricating the
e-tiller for my 35-2. I think I asked a while back, but if anyone has a
photo of an original 35 mk2 tiller, I'd love to see it. It is quite
different from the mk1, since the rudder post is behind the pedestal. What
came with the
ent:* Saturday, March 14, 2020 5:03 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Mike Taylor
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Coronavirus & Caution - The New C
>>
>> Everything at our club is cancelled until May 2nd. Oh wait we shut down
>> just after haul-out in Oct
CnC-List on behalf of Mike Taylor
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 14, 2020 5:03 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Mike Taylor
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Coronavirus & Caution - The New C
>
> Everything at our club is cancelled until May 2nd. Oh wait we sh
Our club just closed the bar and clubhouse, and Sunday races are cancelled
for the next 3 weekends. Other local clubs are revoking reciprocals also,
but I haven't heard about regattas being cancelled yet. I suspect they will
be.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
One reason to use a fuse in addition to a breaker is to protect smaller
gauge wire. In many panels (like mine) breakers are 15A, which would
require all wire runs to be 10-12ga (maybe 8ga on larger boats for long
runs) in order to supply 15A without wire damage. Of course, C didn't use
this size
No idea what is in mine, but just tightened it yesterday after noticing
about 1 drip every 6-10 seconds while sitting. There was a lot of salt
around it, so it's probably been loose for a while, and the nice clean
bilge has now made it noticeable. Sliding the shaft back to remove
transmission may
Sorry, can't answer your questions, but now you have me wondering if I
should be looking for a grease nipple on my 35-2? I need to inspect the
steering gear soon...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Sat, Mar 7, 2020 at 7:15 PM
Our club uses about a dozen permanent marks, and most of them are either CG
or Navy marks or buoys; each is assigned a letter for making the course
easy to note on a board. When a dropped mark is used, it is denoted "X" and
a bearing from the start is stated; this is generally only for weekly RTB
Callisto was rolled and tipped with Pettit EzPoxy (I think, that is the can
on the boat) in red about 4-5 years ago, and is not holding up well.
Polishing and waxing brought the colour back, but a few months into summer,
it was already showed signs of oxidation.
I agree on the comment about
That might have been me, but I've since sold the old transducer and speedo
to another sailor, as I decided I wasn't likely to install it.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Fri, Mar 6, 2020 at 7:26 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
Wow, that is quite the story.
Probably worth adding to my safety routine if we have visitors aboard is a
strong reminder to stay on the boat, even if it seems like jumping in for a
swim is a good idea. Everyone around here is familiar with big ferries, so
maybe likening it to jumping off a ferry
Wow, that does look nice. Much prefer the teak doors to the smoked acrylic
sliders we have on Callisto. And the AC power is in a better place if you
actually use it for, like, bathroom stuff. :) Ours is behind the head to
the left, but usually just has a small heater plugged in for the winter or
My 35-2 has a locker on each side, the starboard being just for a
second tank with no hookup. I believe they are factory original, but have
been modified to accept a taller tank by extending the bottoms. The other
35-2 in the club has a modified locker on one side, where the owner just
cut the top
Our 35-2 came with an older sensor system, and has three remote probes: one
under the stove; one under the nav desk at sole level, and one in the
engine compartment near the bilge. The latter might be a carry over from
the original Atomic 4 engine, but I suppose it could also catch a problem
if
True, but sometimes it takes a while to reef, or you decide to just stick
it out to get around the next point where the wind will ease. We're usually
well over 7 knots when the rail is buried... :)
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Thanks for sharing this. I wasn't aware the teak was stained (Watco Danish
Oil - Cherry flavour for those who didn't follow the link), I thought it
was just an oil finish. I used linseed oil on some new teak plywood and it
seems to be fairly close, maybe a bit lighter. I guess I'm just used to the
d have not found a source.
> Don Kern
> Fireball C 35 mk2
> Bristol RI
>
> On 2/4/2020 11:06 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Sorry, a bit confusing. Yes, I have two sets of bow lights - the original
> in-hull "eye" lights which are currently not functional, and
r?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 4, 2020, 9:57 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks, that makes sense to maintain both (although I plan to delete the
>> pulpit light and r
I'd like to see this circuit too, it sounds interesting. It might be a
while before I get to it, at the rate I'm going down rabbit holes currently
though. Yesterday my AC wiring job resulted in removal of my hot water
tank, among other things. With it removed, I now have a clearer view of my
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>
> --------------
> *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Shawn
> Wright via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 4, 2020 12:27 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New thought re: anchor light?
&
Our boat came with a new Davis LED anchor light, but I haven't pulled or
been up the mast yet, so I attached it to one side of our solar arch, just
above the panels, and we just run a cord with an accessory plug when
required. We've been out in the dinghy at night, and it's clearly visible
all
Interesting that you mention VHF interference. I noticed recently that the
Noma 60W equivalent A19 (household size) LED bulbs I got for my salon
fixtures cause serious interference with my FM radio, so they may also be
an issue with the VHF - I'll have to test them. A bit disappointing, as I
was
I like the idea of a fridge vent! I've been thinking of adding some coaming
boxes, but our watermaker takes up the space on the starboard side. I might
see about moving it down a little, as it would be nice to have a place to
toss jib sheets.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto,
ike i mentioned previous all upholstery stored onboard on edge in the
> v-berth. Seems to work well on the east coast of NS.
>
> On Wed, Jan 22, 2020 at 4:01 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just one note about the CLR product - although it
I forgot this thread was initially about engine condensation. For a gas
engine, I would fog it for sure, we always did with inboard or outboards.
With a diesel, turning it over occasionally should be more than sufficient.
If you do want to fog your diesel, do NOT use the starter, as it may ignite
Just one note about the CLR product - although it does not contain bleach,
as with most chemicals, you should use gloves. It contains Potassium
Hydroxide which is a skin irritant, and is also harmful to stainless steel,
so use with care. If in doubt wear gloves and eye protection, or check the
I struggled with jamming under various conditions on mine, and found the
following issues affected things, and when I pay attention to them, jams
are much less frequent. These may be obvious to you, but they weren't to
me... :)
1. Halyard tension - too tight makes it difficult to furl, and too
ler furling line to keep things under control in a
>> blow.
>>
>> Just my $.02 worth,
>>
>> Bruce Whitmore
>> C 37/40+
>> "Astralis"
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>>
>>
>> Original
ralis"
>
>
>
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>
>
> Original message
> From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List
> Date: 1/8/20 9:33 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Shawn Wright
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket
>
> All thi
All this talk has my thinking I should double up on my furler lines. I tie
a quick loop knot around the final blocks mounted at the cockpit so I can
just pull the loop to release them. The line is also flaked and hung from
the stern rain, but that's probably not going to save me should the knot
Yes, most small, naturally aspirated diesels like ours have their max HP
near their maximum rated RPM, assuming air, fuel and other factors are as
designed. They may be capable of higher output beyond the rated max RPM,
but only for a short time, as most marine and industrial engines are tuned
for
Two other points to consider, even if the new ratio allows you maintain
your cruising speed within a safe engine RPM:
1. You will be able to go slower while in gear at idle, which might be an
advantage. My speed at idle is a bit over 2 knots, which is a bit fast for
negotiating tight spaces, so I
I have some but I'm probably too far away. I just used some 1/8" teak
veneer to laminate onto plywood for a new electrical panel. The nice thing
about the 1/8" veneer is you can make it to any thickness you need by
bonding with plywood.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C
Very true about the protest flag. Recently our crew was the Race Committee
boat for club racing, and we witnessed a pretty severe rule violation at
the start line, but the violated boat didn't have a protest flag, and tried
to use a hat on the back stay instead. They knew it wouldn't be allowed so
I have really enjoyed seeing the range of boats on the course this season,
and it's been educational to see how a well sailed but humble boat like a
Newport 28 (C underbody, but doesn't look quick at all) can beat the
usual runaway winner in our club, a CM1200. I'm told the carbon fibre mast
on
I'm going to give my perspective as a novice racer (although I did race
Lasers as a teen), and what didn't work to keep me as crew.
I crewed on my neighbour's boat for two distance races, a two day regatta,
and about half a dozen Sunday club races since the spring. My last race
with him was a few
My 35-2 is similar, except with water tanks to starboard, so if I put
enough heavy stuff under the settee it is balanced when the tanks are
full...not so much when they are near empty. I have two 6V batts in port
locker just behind fridge, and two more under seat of nav station, with
space for a
I was told by the crane operator that my 35-2 weighed 19,000 lbs at
haulout, which seems a bit excessive, even with full tanks and cruising
gear. The crane is limited to 20,000 lbs, and since at least two other
larger boats were hauled at the same time (Cabot 36 - 17,800 rated and
Hughes 38 -
Interesting discussion as I just decided to join the cruising class at our
local club, which is for boats without an official PHRF rating; the club
handicapper provides a rating for instead, and it is reviewed after each
series of races based on results. Our 35-2 was given a rating of 175 based
on
I think he means the short piece of hose that goes from the hull tube
flange to the seal carrier (just guessing at the names here). I suspect the
biggest risk is if the seal is too tight and binds, it can place too much
twist force on the hose, spinning it off or cracking it.
Another short piece
Interesting discussion. I have the old school packing, which seemed fine
after we bought her and launched in June. But I do see a fair amount of
salt crystals behind the engine, so I now wonder how much it drips. Access
is pretty tight, but I will try to have a look next time we're motoring for
a
So it BBQ Stick lighter for me
>
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
>
> On Dec 11, 2019, at 7:31 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I don't have any ideas on parts, but we have a Force 10 stove and also a
> BBQ on the rail. Both
I don't have any ideas on parts, but we have a Force 10 stove and also a
BBQ on the rail. Both are nice quality so hopefully they will keep going. I
was a bit disappointed that I spent some time replacing the battery holder
for the ignitor on the stove, but it doesn't work well. It sparks with a
son for this system is that it prevents the starting voltage
> dip from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit, one of the
> main reasons I chose this.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List w
I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how often
is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries from being
drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or start) batteries,
I could just additional on/off switches linked to a house or start bus, and
Thanks! Do you sheet inboard of the forward shroud usually, or does it
depend how close to the wind you are?
It looks like your aft track is further outboard than mine too, so this
must be a mk1 vs mk2 difference, as those positions have factory access
panels in the liner.
--
Shawn Wright
And here I was hoping for a post about sail trim! ;)
I'm pretty sure my tracks are too far aft for the 95 jib I mostly run. My
150 genoa is sheeted to blocks on the toe rail, but they're not snatch
blocks, so adjusting is a pain. I'd like to find a better way, and install
a foreward inboard jib
I have now tightened all toerail nuts except those in the anchor locker.
Yesterday, while helping my neighbour with his boat, I decided to let the
hose run down the inside of the toerail for a while. The only leaks evident
were from the windlass switches (sealed by PO with silicone) and the pulpit
I should also add that the two screws I did remove were very well stuck
with butyl tape around the threads, which was soft and gooey, so I am
confident that the tape will do its job once tightened again. I haven't
confirmed it was leaking, but some bolts showed signs of rust, and those
were often
I am almost done tightening the toerail nuts on my 35-2. I have been doing
it mostly alone from below, using a wrench and a flashlight. I start to
tighten the nut while watching the screw threads carefully for movement, If
they don't move, I tighten until snug with a small wrench or 1/4" drive
I don't know the story on this boat, but the price is very cheap!
https://victoria.craigslist.org/boa/d/oak-bay-south-sailboat-and-33/7011884820.html
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
___
That is sad to see! I will have to go take a look. I raced with Magnum a
few weeks back, another C half ton - very beautiful boat under sail with
a unique cockpit layout.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Wed, Oct 30, 2019 at
Here in BC, there are pretty stiff regulations about capturing run off from
pressure washing and wet or dry sanding. My club has an area large enough
for 8-10 boats to be hauled which drains into a multi stage
filtration system, so we can pressure wash or wet sand as long as the
system is active,
Thanks for the tip, these look good. Just need to find a decent waterproof
case for our Acer tablet.
We're going to need radar soon, which means a chart plotter as well, but
until then a tablet mount would be nice. For now it sits under the dodger,
but a bit too far away when I need to see
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