Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
David, I just wrap the chain itself around the cleat, usually holds pretty good with just one circle wrap...and I also use a pin to secure to the anchor roller and a snap shackle to a link in the chain on one end and secured to the toe rail on the other for a redundant secure... a windlass is good but what if it fails to work, probably a good idea to learn a workable way to do it by hand Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:28 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have chain connected to the anchor so I am all chain at the point we are talking about. How do you attach a line to the chain at that point to be able to tie it off? I can see having a chain hook with a line that I leave in the anchor locker, but it seems like it would be challenging to tie a line to the chain one handed while supporting the anchor. Doing all of this in rough weather with the anchor swinging from the bow sounds like a recipe for disaster. Is a windlass powerful enough to pull the stem over the roller? One additional question: how to people secure the anchor to the roller once it is in place? I used to use a pin, but after that got bent and the anchor could not be deployed, I stopped using one on the recommendation of this list. I now run a small high tech line from the stem through a deck eye and back to the bow cleat, but I wonder if a chain hook would be a better idea. Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:41 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I was using the windless to pull the chain to the point where the shank of the anchor cleared the water. I have also pulled the chain by hand (before the battery was hooked up) and tied the chain off when the anchor broke the water. Once the chain is tied off (rolling hitch with a rope or a chain hook) I reach over the bow with the gaff and pull the anchor home. Cheers Bill Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:11 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
homemade oxalic acid rust stain remover or this: http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1083 Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved!
On Aug 17, 2015, at 1:06 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for letting us know what you found. I'm still curious to know if you have a glo-plug solenoid. There is certainly none indicated in the wiring diagram from Universal, but to be fair, the starter solenoid is also not labeled and I have not looked for it in the engine compartment. I will try next time I am at the boat. Presumably I can follow the wires back from the glow plugs? If you don't have, can't fine, can't wait for tefgel then silicone dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) can be found at any auto parts store and is a good alternative. I have Tefgel which I use on screw threads, but had never used it for electrical connections before, so I will give it a try. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 16, 2015 5:14 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I wanted to report back on the latest on my engine panel. I was able to get the connector in the engine compartment apart today. Two of the pins were particularly black and all looked corroded. I cleaned them all and put it back together and remarkably, the engine started with both buttons held down. So that high resistance junction seems to have been the source of the problem. It is such a rewarding feeling when all the work pays off and a problem is solved. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions! Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the connector. I may still butt connect all the wires this winter, but the grease seems like a good option to retain good contact. Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Anchor roller
And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
David, Search for a pivoting anchor bow roller. Might make retrieval easier. FYI, I know nothing about them. Dennis C. On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Hi Mark, I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a scotchbrite pad to clean up rust stains. I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute version of what I use so it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad acid defiantly speeds things up, allowing you to rinse in less time than a soak. Any significant heat treatment (welding) on S/S will affect it's protective oxide layer. To restore the affected area we use a pickling paste which is just a fancy name for a really strong acid thickened enough to hang almost vertical for a while doing it's job. Copious amounts of water is recommenced to be on hand to get rid of it. The best welding process for anything that cannot be removed from the boat is shielded gas, TIG or MIG, not a fluxed electrode. A tad more expensive but a much better job and no splatter clean-up. If you have to go other and with any grinding keep the decks wet, water flowing, around the work area. This will prevent hot stuff sticking to soft stuff. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 12:48 PM 17/08/2015, you wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! Barbara L. Hickson"Flight Risk" C Hull No. 145Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved!
As I wrote some time back: One very good source of problems in many of the older boats is the one or more multi-pole connectors in the engine wiring harness. They have often been there for twenty or more years without being touched and corrosion build up due to lack of current flow across the individual connectors can lead to excessive resistance in the various circuits, false alarms and poor starting. I suggest as a first approach to trouble shooting any engine related starting or alarm problems, finding the connector(s), often there are more than one, pulling them apart and reconnecting them several times to clean corrosion off the contacts and then testing to see if the problem is resolved. I am an advocate of removing the connectors completely and replacing them by cutting each conductor back to good, corrosion free wire and rejoining them using appropriately sized and crimped heat shrink butt connectors. This will generally solve the immediate problem and also help reduce further corrosion related problems. In older boats where un-tinned wire is frequently found and extensive corrosion of individual conductors occurs, replacement of the entire length of wire with good quality marine grade tinned wire will help ensure trouble free operation. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC INDIGO LF38 Boatless! On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:08, Michael Brown via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the connector. The normal substance to use would be a dielectric grease, not a conductive grease, though at the 12 volt range that property does not come in to play much. Some interesting reading on the topic: http://www.w8ji.com/dielectric_grease_vs_conductive_grease.htm Note that even the best grease, correctly applied at the contact point, will not solve the problem of the wires just back of the connection corroding. Michael Brown Windburn CC 30-1 Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2015 00:06:43 -0500 From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved! Message-ID: CA+zaCRBoNCn=eGtKFXTOD7By2eJC4jriBjHwKTjOE1=flrv...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Thanks for letting us know what you found. I'm still curious to know if you have a glo-plug solenoid. If you don't have, can't fine, can't wait for tefgel then silicone dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) can be found at any auto parts store and is a good alternative. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 16, 2015 5:14 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I wanted to report back on the latest on my engine panel. I was able to get the connector in the engine compartment apart today. Two of the pins were particularly black and all looked corroded. I cleaned them all and put it back together and remarkably, the engine started with both buttons held down. So that high resistance junction seems to have been the source of the problem. It is such a rewarding feeling when all the work pays off and a problem is solved. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions! Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the connector. I may still butt connect all the wires this winter, but the grease seems like a good option to retain good contact. Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
Barbara, Send me your email address and I will send a few pics of Calypso's custom bow roller. Martin DeYoung calyps...@outlook.commailto:calyps...@outlook.com Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle [Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 4:49 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! Barbara L. Hickson Flight Risk CC33-1 Hull No. 145 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhonehttps://yho.com/footer0 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/bowroller/bowroller.htm From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 7:48 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! Barbara L. Hickson Flight Risk CC33-1 Hull No. 145 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
If I was to put an anchor roller on now I would have it double as a sprit for an asymmetric spinnaker. Long and sturdy with the roller doubling as a tack block. Jerry. JJCC 27 V Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:48 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! Barbara L. Hickson Flight Risk CC33-1 Hull No. 145 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
wear heavy rubber gloves and pull harder, maybe get some help from other crew if there's enough on board Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 9:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I never thought of this as a problem since I have a 44-lb Bruce right now but I'm planning on getting the 20 kg Rocna Vulcan (without the roll bar) for the Bahamas. I won't have the roll bar to grab but I manage OK with the Bruce. I don't think the roll bar will play nice with my Bruce along side. Does anyone on the list have both side by side? Bob S/V Rainy Days LF38 Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
on a more serious note Dave, the thick gloves do help...I stand on the deck at the bow and pull up, not back on the slack anchor rode and chain very slowly, allowing the water column to wash it off as much as possible and sometimes I use the engine to drive forward slowly to make getting the rode and chain more or less vertical but the anchor still holding to the seabed...then I often take a wrap on a bow cleat and power forward with the engine to break the anchor free and if I have the chance I head under power to deeper water allowing the chain to get further cleaned as I drag it and the anchor thru the water...then pull the chain straight up to where the anchor is resting right below the roller out of the water...usually my anchor spins a bit hanging on the chain and often with gentle encouragement like a twist on the chain and up and down on the anchor a bit I can encourage it to rest where it will enter the roller in the correct orientation and then a sharp pull to get the stem over the roller to the lock down position, and then I put a second secure on the chain...a snap shackle to the toe rail in my case. Hope this helps you out but it will never be as easy as with an electrical windlass...I have a 15 kg Bruce style anchor and about 50 feet of 5/16 HT chain to a 3/4 inch Samson braid rode Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 9:53 AM, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com wrote: wear heavy rubber gloves and pull harder, maybe get some help from other crew if there's enough on board Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 9:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Less Than a Month to The CC 2015 Northeast Rendevous (cnc2015.com)
Listers, We’re now less than a month away to the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous — See cnc2015.com http://cnc2015.com/. Floating private dock Power / Water Pool / Hot Tub Recreation Area Ship’s Store / Mechanics on Site Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall Close to Trains and Route 1 in Clinton, CT Group Dinners including Waterfront Restaurant Group Buffet Reserve Online at cnc2015.com http://cnc2015.com/ Special Surprise Guest Attending 7 CCs with 17 attendees have signed up so far. Don’t miss this great opportunity to put faces to the names, see other’s modifications, and enjoy the camaraderie of CC owners! Some modifications that may be of interest: A HF Ham Radio Installation and a Complete Diesel Engine Repower. Event Flyer (post at your clubs or on other CCs): https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/cnc2015/cnc2015-flyer.pdf https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/cnc2015/cnc2015-flyer.pdf All the best, Edd Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise CC 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B City Island, NY Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I was using the windless to pull the chain to the point where the shank of the anchor cleared the water. I have also pulled the chain by hand (before the battery was hooked up) and tied the chain off when the anchor broke the water. Once the chain is tied off (rolling hitch with a rope or a chain hook) I reach over the bow with the gaff and pull the anchor home. Cheers Bill Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:11 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Raw water intake fouling A4
There are different schools of thought about the external strainers. Have a look here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/external_strainers. This is from the Maine Sail’s gallery. Marek From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 9:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers Subject: Stus-List Raw water intake fouling A4 Joe My set up is the same on my A4, a 90degree elbow from the thruhull. Not ideal but it is what it is. If you can change it to a straight, I'm sure that would help with the flow, but any Groco filter that will fit your space should be a good improvement for catching jellyfish, grasses, etc. The canisters are clear and you can see any debris that collects in there. At your next haulout, you may consider adding a strainer to the exterior of the hullside inlet. I don't have one, but it couldn't hurt. Many of the owners here have converted to diesels but Moyer Marine has an awesome forum for A4 owners. I love my A4, she's original to my '76 33-1 and runs like a Roman soldier. I've done a lot of maintenance on my A4, message me if you have any questions. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone * ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 40 Aft Cabin revisited
OK, We all know CC's are the prettiest boats on the water. My 44 has been called the prettiest boat on the lake by many people not including me :) or CC owners. :) I would like to re-ask Don's original questions about the 40 Aft Cabin. I went with Don to look at this boat hoping to add to the number of great sailing/great looking boats at our marina. The question is really about the aft cabin version of the 40, not the traditional layout. I believe the aft cabin version was only offered in the last year of production. We have a 44 and one of the best features of the boat is the aft cabin with a bridge deck high enough that you can walk around the entire back of the boat and through the head. Because of the bridgedeck we have a very large dodger that creates a wonderful spot to hang out in bad weather and yet still allows for sailing the boat properly with good access to line stoppers and winches. (Obviously our primary focus on this boat is cruising, albeit quickly). We also have 370W of solar power mounted on the dodger and no-one even knows it's there. The 40 aft cabin layout on paper looks like it takes the interior of the 40, adds a separate aft cabin area but with some compromises. The compromises in my mind are: -the companionway stairs are 7 ft long and quite steep and the hatch opening is small, this opening sits at the end of a deep and narrow bridge deck -because the bridge deck is very deep and narrow it makes it more difficult to build a functional dodger. In addition the boom is much lower on the 40 so there really isn't an opportunity to build a dodger tall enough to comfortably make it through the narrow/deep bridge deck. Has anyone solved this by moving the gooseneck higher up the mast and raising the boom with possible modifications to sail shape? -the engine is no longer under the companionway stairs but pushed way back under the cockpit sole, mounted backwards and drives a V-drive transmission like the LF 38. How do owners find the access to maintain the engine/drive/shaft seal etc? Any answers to these questions from people with experience with this boat would be much appreciated. Jon CC 44 Mor' Childs Play Kingston ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring- Problem Solved!
Yes, if you have a glo-plug solenoid then it should be where the glo-plugs are getting power from. I would look on the engine but its no guarantee. The concern is that without one you may continue to burn the the connector, contacts, or worse the wires. Josh On Aug 17, 2015 7:09 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Aug 17, 2015, at 1:06 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks for letting us know what you found. I'm still curious to know if you have a glo-plug solenoid. There is certainly none indicated in the wiring diagram from Universal, but to be fair, the starter solenoid is also not labeled and I have not looked for it in the engine compartment. I will try next time I am at the boat. Presumably I can follow the wires back from the glow plugs? If you don't have, can't fine, can't wait for tefgel then silicone dielectric grease (spark plug boot grease) can be found at any auto parts store and is a good alternative. I have Tefgel which I use on screw threads, but had never used it for electrical connections before, so I will give it a try. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 16, 2015 5:14 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I wanted to report back on the latest on my engine panel. I was able to get the connector in the engine compartment apart today. Two of the pins were particularly black and all looked corroded. I cleaned them all and put it back together and remarkably, the engine started with both buttons held down. So that high resistance junction seems to have been the source of the problem. It is such a rewarding feeling when all the work pays off and a problem is solved. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions! Now- what to do about the future- I am considering putting some electrically conductive grease on the contacts before reassembling the connector. I may still butt connect all the wires this winter, but the grease seems like a good option to retain good contact. Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List jelly substance on filters
When I was last teaching diesel mechanics, back at the end of 2009, both Yanmar and Cummins discouraged the use of biodiesel in their engines. I believe Yanmar authorized use of B5 and Cummins was B10, but it could be the other way around. Hey, I'm getting older and I sometimes forget stuff. I recall one of the service bulletins mentioned concerns about the lubricity of some of the oils resulting from the process of making the biodiesel, but the Stanadyne additive both manufacturers recommended for older engines after the introduction of Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel should take care of that. The major concern was with longer term fuel storage - and with the fuel consumption rates in our boats any fuel in the tank is longer term storage. As mentioned by someone earlier, the critters in the tank live in the water at the bottom and eat the diesel fuel. They eat the diesel, but they really seem to thrive on the biodiesel, and the growth of algae was much more of a problem with biodiesel. I've used B5 in my boat from time to time, but I keep Biobor algaecide in the tank, and have since the new tank was installed in 2010. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 12:19 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com Subject: Re: Stus-List jelly substance on filters I once had a similar experience on Calypso a few years back when I used a tank of 20% biodiesel. I switched back and have not seen it since. My guess is the biodiesel was not properly formulated and some of the non-dinosaur fats separated out. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
My rode is 3 strand which I spliced to the chain. I check the splice at the beginning of the season. I have to pull it over the gypsy when hauling up the anchor to prevent a jam up. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: David Knecht via CnC-List Date: Mon, Aug 17, 2015 11:28To: CnC CnC discussion list;Cc: David Knecht;Subject:Re: Stus-List Anchor roller I have chain connected to the anchor so I am all chain at the point we are talking about. How do you attach a line to the chain at that point to be able to tie it off? I can see having a chain hook with a line that I leave in the anchor locker, but it seems like it would be challenging to tie a line to the chain one handed while supporting the anchor. Doing all of this in rough weather with the anchor swinging from the bow sounds like a recipe for disaster.Is a windlass powerful enough to pull the stem over the roller? One additional question: how to people secure the anchor to the roller once it is in place? I used to use a pin, but after that got bent and the anchor could not be deployed, I stopped using one on the recommendation of this list. I now run a small high tech line from the stem through a deck eye and back to the bow cleat, but I wonder if a chain hook would be a better idea.Dave Aries1990 CC 34+New London, CT On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:41 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I was using the windless to pull the chain to the point where the shank of the anchor cleared the water. I have also pulled the chain by hand (before the battery was hooked up) and tied the chain off when the anchor broke the water. Once the chain is tied off (rolling hitch with a rope or a chain hook) I reach over the bow with the gaff and pull the anchor home. CheersBill Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:11 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. BillMithrandirCC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries1990 CC 34+New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David KnechtProfessor of Molecular and Cell BiologyCore Microscopy Facility DirectorUniversity of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd.Storrs, CT 06269860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
Of course. Although I have to modify the one at the anchor because the pin gets hing up on the bow roller fitting. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Date: Mon, Aug 17, 2015 11:17To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: dwight veinot;Subject:Re: Stus-List Anchor roller I hope you seized all the shackles Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I was actually looking at this one but not sure in practice which would be better: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276131%7C2276136id=934454 http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276108|2276131|2276136id=934454 Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT On Aug 17, 2015, at 11:46 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, you might want to consider running the chain through a chain stopper. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--chain-stoppers--P005_155_002_501 http://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--chain-stoppers--P005_155_002_501 That way, anything you have dragged in is held and gives you time to regroup. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 08:23, svpegasu...@gmail.com mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I do it exactly as Dwight described. It's not always easy breaking the 30# bruce claw anchor loose since we back down on it pretty hard. As Dwight stated after taking most of the rode up you can cleat or chain stopper (or screwdriver in a link) and power forward gently. Without a deck wash down i just keep a 2.5gal bucket w/rope and scrub brush ready. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 17, 2015 9:19 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: on a more serious note Dave, the thick gloves do help...I stand on the deck at the bow and pull up, not back on the slack anchor rode and chain very slowly, allowing the water column to wash it off as much as possible and sometimes I use the engine to drive forward slowly to make getting the rode and chain more or less vertical but the anchor still holding to the seabed...then I often take a wrap on a bow cleat and power forward with the engine to break the anchor free and if I have the chance I head under power to deeper water allowing the chain to get further cleaned as I drag it and the anchor thru the water...then pull the chain straight up to where the anchor is resting right below the roller out of the water...usually my anchor spins a bit hanging on the chain and often with gentle encouragement like a twist on the chain and up and down on the anchor a bit I can encourage it to rest where it will enter the roller in the correct orientation and then a sharp pull to get the stem over the roller to the lock down position, and then I put a second secure on the chain...a snap shackle to the toe rail in my case. Hope this helps you out but it will never be as easy as with an electrical windlass...I have a 15 kg Bruce style anchor and about 50 feet of 5/16 HT chain to a 3/4 inch Samson braid rode Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 9:53 AM, dwight veinot dwight...@gmail.com wrote: wear heavy rubber gloves and pull harder, maybe get some help from other crew if there's enough on board Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 9:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
David, you might want to consider running the chain through a chain stopper. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--chain-stoppers--P005_155_002_501 That way, anything you have dragged in is held and gives you time to regroup. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 08:23, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38
Not sure where Joe is, but that would help. I just had to clean out my refrigeration system again - Zebra Mussels. There is nothing but brown scum in the strainer, because I have moth balls in there, and nothing lives there anymore, but the Zebra fry pass right through the 50 micron strainer and attach in the Shurflo pump, where all they have to do is just sit there and let the water pass over them. Apparently my monthly flush of chlorine is not often enough. I need to put some type of injector in the line! Bill Coleman CC 39, Erie PA, Zebra Mussel Capitol. And Quagga mussel, and Gobbie Capitol. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Scott via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 4:58 PM To: CnClist Cc: Joe Scott Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38 Hey All, Twice now I have developed clogs in the raw water intake. In both cases I was able to remove the water line and flush out whatever was in there. There is a 90 degree elbow threaded into the seacock and Im thinking thats where its clogging but I�m not sure. I am in the process of adding a raw water strainer (not sure why it didn�t have one) and was thinking that removing the elbow and adding a straight nipple would help prevent the clogs. While I�m at it, does anyone have any recommendation on what strainer to buy? I am looking at the Groco ones but they have several different ones that all fit 3/4� NPT. Thanks all Joe ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38
Bill: Fortunately, we don't have Zebra mussels on the Chesapeake Bay! On my water-cooled air conditioner, I put a chlorine tablet (its about 1-inch in diameter and about 3/4-inch thick from a pool supply house) in the strainer basket each week--this seems to keep things from growing in the cooling water system. Occasionally, the system sucks up a nettle (jellyfish) and I have to clean it out of the strainer. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On Aug 17, 2015, at 2:26 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Not sure where Joe is, but that would help. I just had to clean out my refrigeration system again - Zebra Mussels. There is nothing but brown scum in the strainer, because I have moth balls in there, and nothing lives there anymore, but the Zebra fry pass right through the 50 micron strainer and attach in the Shurflo pump, where all they have to do is just sit there and let the water pass over them. Apparently my monthly flush of chlorine is not often enough. I need to put some type of injector in the line! Bill Coleman CC 39, Erie PA, Zebra Mussel Capitol. And Quagga mussel, and Gobbie Capitol. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Scott via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 4:58 PM To: CnClist Cc: Joe Scott Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38 Hey All, Twice now I have developed clogs in the raw water intake. In both cases I was able to remove the water line and flush out whatever was in there. There is a 90 degree elbow threaded into the seacock and Im thinking thats where its clogging but I�m not sure. I am in the process of adding a raw water strainer (not sure why it didn�t have one) and was thinking that removing the elbow and adding a straight nipple would help prevent the clogs. While I�m at it, does anyone have any recommendation on what strainer to buy? I am looking at the Groco ones but they have several different ones that all fit 3/4� NPT. Thanks all Joe ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I hope you seized all the shackles Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I have bronze keepers for both anchor stems. A stainless pin goes thru the keeper--not the anchor. Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On Aug 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have chain connected to the anchor so I am all chain at the point we are talking about. How do you attach a line to the chain at that point to be able to tie it off? I can see having a chain hook with a line that I leave in the anchor locker, but it seems like it would be challenging to tie a line to the chain one handed while supporting the anchor. Doing all of this in rough weather with the anchor swinging from the bow sounds like a recipe for disaster. Is a windlass powerful enough to pull the stem over the roller? One additional question: how to people secure the anchor to the roller once it is in place? I used to use a pin, but after that got bent and the anchor could not be deployed, I stopped using one on the recommendation of this list. I now run a small high tech line from the stem through a deck eye and back to the bow cleat, but I wonder if a chain hook would be a better idea. Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:41 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I was using the windless to pull the chain to the point where the shank of the anchor cleared the water. I have also pulled the chain by hand (before the battery was hooked up) and tied the chain off when the anchor broke the water. Once the chain is tied off (rolling hitch with a rope or a chain hook) I reach over the bow with the gaff and pull the anchor home. Cheers Bill Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:11 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
I have chain connected to the anchor so I am all chain at the point we are talking about. How do you attach a line to the chain at that point to be able to tie it off? I can see having a chain hook with a line that I leave in the anchor locker, but it seems like it would be challenging to tie a line to the chain one handed while supporting the anchor. Doing all of this in rough weather with the anchor swinging from the bow sounds like a recipe for disaster. Is a windlass powerful enough to pull the stem over the roller? One additional question: how to people secure the anchor to the roller once it is in place? I used to use a pin, but after that got bent and the anchor could not be deployed, I stopped using one on the recommendation of this list. I now run a small high tech line from the stem through a deck eye and back to the bow cleat, but I wonder if a chain hook would be a better idea. Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:41 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I was using the windless to pull the chain to the point where the shank of the anchor cleared the water. I have also pulled the chain by hand (before the battery was hooked up) and tied the chain off when the anchor broke the water. Once the chain is tied off (rolling hitch with a rope or a chain hook) I reach over the bow with the gaff and pull the anchor home. Cheers Bill Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:11 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38
Thanks Bob – You must have a plastic Strainer, I put a chlorine tablet in my strainer and it dissolved half the SS Screen !!. I asked Shurflo if I could buy just the screen, but they said no, had to buy the whole thing again. Bill Coleman CC 39, Erie, PA From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 3:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38 Bill: Fortunately, we don't have Zebra mussels on the Chesapeake Bay! On my water-cooled air conditioner, I put a chlorine tablet (its about 1-inch in diameter and about 3/4-inch thick from a pool supply house) in the strainer basket each week--this seems to keep things from growing in the cooling water system. Occasionally, the system sucks up a nettle (jellyfish) and I have to clean it out of the strainer. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On Aug 17, 2015, at 2:26 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Not sure where Joe is, but that would help. I just had to clean out my refrigeration system again - Zebra Mussels. There is nothing but brown scum in the strainer, because I have moth balls in there, and nothing lives there anymore, but the Zebra fry pass right through the 50 micron strainer and attach in the Shurflo pump, where all they have to do is just sit there and let the water pass over them. Apparently my monthly flush of chlorine is not often enough. I need to put some type of injector in the line! Bill Coleman CC 39, Erie PA, Zebra Mussel Capitol. And Quagga mussel, and Gobbie Capitol. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Scott via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 4:58 PM To: CnClist Cc: Joe Scott Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38 Hey All, Twice now I have developed clogs in the raw water intake. In both cases I was able to remove the water line and flush out whatever was in there. There is a 90 degree elbow threaded into the seacock and Im thinking thats where its clogging but I�m not sure. I am in the process of adding a raw water strainer (not sure why it didn�t have one) and was thinking that removing the elbow and adding a straight nipple would help prevent the clogs. While I�m at it, does anyone have any recommendation on what strainer to buy? I am looking at the Groco ones but they have several different ones that all fit 3/4� NPT. Thanks all Joe ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
The chain tensioner would be harder to apply, whereas the stopper takes the load whenever you let it slide back an inch or so. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 09:17, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I was actually looking at this one but not sure in practice which would be better: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276131%7C2276136id=934454 Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT On Aug 17, 2015, at 11:46 AM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: David, you might want to consider running the chain through a chain stopper. http://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--chain-stoppers--P005_155_002_501 That way, anything you have dragged in is held and gives you time to regroup. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 08:23, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38
Yes, I have the plastic strainer in a Groco strainer housing and I have 2 spare baskets. Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:24 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Thanks Bob – You must have a plastic Strainer, I put a chlorine tablet in my strainer and it dissolved half the SS Screen !!. I asked Shurflo if I could buy just the screen, but they said no, had to buy the whole thing again. Bill Coleman CC 39, Erie, PA From: Robert Boyer [mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com] Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 3:11 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman Subject: Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38 Bill: Fortunately, we don't have Zebra mussels on the Chesapeake Bay! On my water-cooled air conditioner, I put a chlorine tablet (its about 1-inch in diameter and about 3/4-inch thick from a pool supply house) in the strainer basket each week--this seems to keep things from growing in the cooling water system. Occasionally, the system sucks up a nettle (jellyfish) and I have to clean it out of the strainer. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD 1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230 email: dainyr...@icloud.com blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. --Kenneth Grahame On Aug 17, 2015, at 2:26 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Not sure where Joe is, but that would help. I just had to clean out my refrigeration system again - Zebra Mussels. There is nothing but brown scum in the strainer, because I have moth balls in there, and nothing lives there anymore, but the Zebra fry pass right through the 50 micron strainer and attach in the Shurflo pump, where all they have to do is just sit there and let the water pass over them. Apparently my monthly flush of chlorine is not often enough. I need to put some type of injector in the line! Bill Coleman CC 39, Erie PA, Zebra Mussel Capitol. And Quagga mussel, and Gobbie Capitol. -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe Scott via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 4:58 PM To: CnClist Cc: Joe Scott Subject: Stus-List Atomic 4 Raw Water Intake Clogging 1976 38 Hey All, Twice now I have developed clogs in the raw water intake. In both cases I was able to remove the water line and flush out whatever was in there. There is a 90 degree elbow threaded into the seacock and Im thinking thats where its clogging but I�m not sure. I am in the process of adding a raw water strainer (not sure why it didn�t have one) and was thinking that removing the elbow and adding a straight nipple would help prevent the clogs. While I�m at it, does anyone have any recommendation on what strainer to buy? I am looking at the Groco ones but they have several different ones that all fit 3/4� NPT. Thanks all Joe ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
The heat of welding will change the physical properties of stainless, so he may (probably did) use stainless rod but it's now less stainless. You could try repassivating it with a product called Wichinox. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303285|2303294id=1819274 Davis FSR will remove the rust stains. If you want to use just the active ingredient, it's oxalic acid. You can buy it as Wood Bleach at hardware stores. I'm not sure muriatic acid would be appropriate here. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 13:03, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Muriatic acid will get ride of the rust stains. Sudbury Hull Cleaner contains it. My rigger welded my pushpit, but he is in Annapolis. Not sure what he used for welding rod. Joel 35/3 On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Muriatic acid will get ride of the rust stains. Sudbury Hull Cleaner contains it. My rigger welded my pushpit, but he is in Annapolis. Not sure what he used for welding rod. Joel 35/3 On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
FSR, fiberglass stain remover. Takes out trusts stain. Use on my Florida, sorry to say, power boat. Bill Walker CnC 36 Pentwater, Mi On the inland sea. Sent from AOL Mobile Mail On Monday, August 17, 2015 Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Citric acid @ 20% Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 1:11 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: The heat of welding will change the physical properties of stainless, so he may (probably did) use stainless rod but it's now less stainless. You could try repassivating it with a product called Wichinox. http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303285|2303294id=1819274 Davis FSR will remove the rust stains. If you want to use just the active ingredient, it's oxalic acid. You can buy it as Wood Bleach at hardware stores. I'm not sure muriatic acid would be appropriate here. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 13:03, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Muriatic acid will get ride of the rust stains. Sudbury Hull Cleaner contains it. My rigger welded my pushpit, but he is in Annapolis. Not sure what he used for welding rod. Joel 35/3 On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
