Hi Martin,
Thanks for your detailed response regarding MaxProp and PYI. Great advice as
always. It's the first time I've heard of changing the prop pitch for
conditions. Did that work out for you? Was it worth the trouble?
I'm still looking for "actual settings" by owners with a C 34/36,
Hi Dennis,
Thanks for the great resource to heat exchanger maintenance.
FWIW, I keep several 1/8" wooden dowels aboard (Walmart or Michaels) to ream
out the scale buildup in the heat exchanger of my Universal M4-30. It makes a
huge difference cleaning the tubes out and I do that each fall after
Nice article on batteries in winter. Thanks for the clarity.
> On December 2, 2018 at 10:53 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Another decent article on winter self-discharge can be found here:
> http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/self_discharge .
>
>
>
> Not on
Had the boat fifteen years. I leave my batteries on the boat connected with
everything switched off. I go to the boat at least once a month to connect a
power cord that powers the charger and top them off while I check the cover and
interior and work on projects. On the hard, I keep a power
Jeremy,
The mystery switch may simply be power to the masthead Windex? That shows close
haul indication if the guide bars are adjusted.
> On November 29, 2018 at 12:24 PM David via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Separate instrument in which it shows a view of 45 degree (in lieu of 360
> degrees)
Curious, How does someone get 300# of chain from the store to the boat?
At 1.10#/ft that will weigh 302#. Split it up into 6) 5gal buckets, the
portions would be more manageble at 50# each and that would fit in a dolly/cart
and could be safely handled by one person, as in lifted in and
Like Dennis says, there's no one way to do this. My 2 cents on Fuel Polishing.
Fuel worried me a great deal when I bought my boat since it had sat for two
years. I don't motor much so the fuel sits and gets older each year. I have
an 18 gallon tank, so I got me three 5 gallon jerry cans
Hi Gary,
I think I'll eventually donate my boat, so I'm interested in the process of
your organzation.
Can you send me an application or what you require?
Can you send me a list of boats that sold this year and the prices fetched?
Thanks
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy
FWIW, I also hate the new fuel cans but learned they do work if used correctly.
I found I have to forego the funnel and lift the can so it is over the fill
hole. Then I lower the can so the nozzle enters the fill and guide the nozzle
so the little step rests on the edge of the fill and lower
I painted our black pedestal using Brightside, Matterhorn White back in 2003.
It still looks good except for a few small places where it got hit by a winch
handle and scraped off. I'll touchup with Brightside. First, I sanded and
primed with that green primer first and then painted two coats
Have owned Resolute, a C 34R, now for 16 years.
> On October 2, 2018 at 1:20 PM David Knecht via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Have owned Aries (C 34+) since 2013. Previously had a C 34 which we
> owned from 2005 until 2011.
> Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
Hopefully nobody had their legs over when he came crashing through the line.
FWIW, my local club made it a rule that the start line is one way and boats
over early have to go around the pin end or the committee boat to restart.
Anyone else have that rule?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad
hard to come by up here. I could tent and heat but my thought is
> to heat the interior even though I’ve been reading about how difficult it is
> to do working underneath.
>
> Thanks again for the follow up.
>
> James Bibb.
>
>
>
> > >
Hi James,
I replaced balsa core on my 34R around my mast collar back in 2007. I have to
look on an older computer for my pictures. I wound up making a G10 boss around
the deck opening and epoxying a 1/4" sleeve around the opening to protect the
balsa from water.
I find kevlar in every part of
Edd,
I fully appreciate you pulling the Northeast C rendezvous together.
Sorry, I've been in coma all summer.
I was suddenly let go from my job in July and I've been enjoying some
unexpected but rare time off and got back into windsurfing. My boat is on the
hard near Baltimore in the Chesapeake
I am a member of Mystic Seaport Museum in Mystic Conn and know you could spend
a full day there. They have the whaler Charles W Morton, the sail training
ship Joseph Conrad, The Grand Banks schooner LA Duntan and many other fine
yachts.
Chuck
> On August 30, 2018 at 10:23 AM "Dennis C.
Hi Bruce,
FYI, Photos of our idler plate replacement are still on the website. The link
is listed on the main page of
http://cncphotoalbum.com/
> On August 20, 2018 at 3:23 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> This issue has been brought up numerous times, but
I'm adding a vote for raising the boom end by altering the mainsail.
My gooseneck is welded. I expect I could find a new mast fitting that fit and
screw it onto the mast above the OEM product. I'd leave the old fitting as it
adds strength and wouldn't be in the way of anything.
In 2012, I had
Hi David,
Sorry about the grounding.
Boats can be fixed. Be thankful you and crew are OK.
I have had many groundings that were no big deal and one horrible grounding
that cost me $16K, so I know your pain very well. I hope your insurance comes
through for you. Keep us posted on developments.
‘bale’ or mast mounted small block to provide what you
> need.
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app:http://mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Sunday, July 15, 2018, Chuck S via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> > >
> > Hi Guys,
&
Hi Guys,
I've got a 35 footer and want to add a halyard restrainer to my mast and have a
synthetic halyard that is stripped, and see two choices.
I see a Schaefer SS fairlead and a Harken Sheave. The fairlead is cheaper and
has a smaller profile. The Harken product is bulkier but
Check out Mars Metals. They made the original keels.
https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/
> On July 13, 2018 at 12:58 PM Languid Refiner via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and will
> be using her as
Glad to see actual draft reported for the 37/40. I believe many builders
misreported draft and displacement to sell boats back in the 70's and 80's.
Long ago, I noticed many differences between spec numbers and actual numbers
for our boats. The 34/36 is spec'd for 4' 10 draft but the actual
Did this job in 2015. Edson offered only the cast aluminum idler plate. Its better than the OEM, but raises the pedestal somewhat. Expect to make a trim ring from 3/4 stock; starboard or foamboard. I offered my templates to Edson, but they were mute. Another option mentioned by Francois,
Dennis,
Your guy sounds better than the offer I got from Chesapeake Rigging. They
wanted $800 to do the seals and said the cylinder may be worn and may cost even
more money.
You remind me I need to place a sun shield on my ram seal also.
I was thinking of using a hole saw to cut a wafer out of
Hi John,
Please send me a picture of your boat in the slip and I might have some ideas
on how to rig springs.
> On June 27, 2018 at 5:13 PM John Conklin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> simply because of my docking situation i have only 1 half finger pier and
> 3 pilings one side and 4 other
I had great success in 2007 taking my Navtec ram and remote pump to a local
hydraulic shop that works on heavy equipment rams like dozers and backhoes,
etc. Chesapeake Rigging wanted $800. I could have bought a new system for
another $200.
Instead I took it to a shop and it cost me less than
It's simple for the 1990 or newer models. Just line up the slings with the
ends of the windows. And tie the slings together on one side so they don't
slip.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On June 26, 2018 at 10:10 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
Thoughts on PHRF:
There are a few PHRF rated boats that seem to defy their rating and sail much
faster. My New Jersey fleet had a J28, a cruiser with a rating 171, similar to
a J24, but with longer waterline and bigger sails. Our rating was 99 and we had
better upwind speed, but In many light
Hi guys,
Two of the eight wooden shims that sit in the aluminum shoe to hold the mast
foot in position, were rotted, so I fabricated new ones. I chose teak because
I had some thick scraps that matched. Now I'm wondering if I should seal them.
I have Cetol, Watco oil, or West system epoxy
FWIW, The outhaul on my 1989 34R is 1/8" SS wire about eight feet long, thimble
both ends and in good shape. Inside the boom is a four to one purchase made of
two fiddle blocks for 7/16" StaSet that exits at the gooseneck and comes back
to the clutches and winches. I rarely need the winch to
The dent seems awfully small to me and sounds cosmetic.
I doubt a dent with a depth of 3mm counts for much. That's about an 1/8". The
mast wall is probably that thick. And the size of 5cm (2") by 3cm (1 3/16")
seems very superficial. Several feet above the gooseneck. If there aren't too
many
Wow, they look like amazing buys. Shocking.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On June 11, 2018 at 5:38 PM "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
>
> https://easternshore.craigslist.org/boa/d/1979-cc-30/6589132460.html
>
> 1979 C 30 - $1500 (Cape Charles, VA)
Nice trick. Thanks.
> On June 2, 2018 at 2:36 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Recently, my furler swivel got inadvertently hoisted to the masthead
> (sans sail). Used a simple technique to retrieve it with having to go aloft.
>
> Fortunately, Touche's spinnaker halyard
FWIW, My Harken MkIII top swivel can not get clear of the feeder unless I
remove the SS feeder, lower the swivel, and reinstall the feeder to allow me to
feed the luff tape into the groove. No problem at the dock but difficult on a
pitching foredeck.
If the wind picks up so much I need to
You got me thinking. I prefer the Selden product if you go this route.
Superior engineering.
I like the security of shackles, though I always dread losing one of the pins.
I keep the pins secured with a stout bit of twine. I'd have to tape the snap
shackles to ensure they don't open at
Me too. I use a spin halyard and haul it higher with a light downhaul I keep
rigged and let it light the coachroof and deck.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On May 9, 2018 at 10:43 AM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Just to
t not both. I prefer to use the deck lights in the bay
> because it is easier to judge distance. Offshore are use the masthead so the
> lights are visible for a greater distance and in the swells
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, May 9, 2018 at 9:01 AM Chuck S via CnC-List
> <
Anyone know the regs on using Masthead Tri-Color lights. Just want to do
what's right on my boat this summer on Chesapeake Bay. I believe you can use
either but never both deck lights and the masthead tri-color. Also thought I
read that the masthead tri-color was intended for offshore and
now if you’d like me to price one
> for you.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
>
>
>
>
> > > On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via
CC-1701-B
> City Island, New Yorkhttp://www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767 | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-
Hey guys,
I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I should pull
in a TV antenna cable? Does anyone have one that works well? I get 35
channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just
when the comedian says the punchline. Can be
Responding late to the discussion. My mast is out so I am replacing all the
light fixtures and wiring and selected MarineBeam's Anchor
Light/tri-color/Strobe Combo that works with two wires.
https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-light-and-strobe-n3-tri-cmb/
I tested the light
I see your boat was built in '93 and probably by then C changed methods. Good
to know.
> On May 6, 2018 at 11:48 AM Brian Fry via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I removed my chainplates this winter and was relieved to find no core
> material. All solid.
> Yes the
Love the before photos. Did you take any of the fix?
> On May 5, 2018 at 11:30 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Same. The deck on my 1972 30 MK I is cored. The offseason before last I
> removed the chainplates, dug out a good half-inch of core around
What's the best way to seal leaky chainplates at the deck. The boats built
after 1988 have a welded flange that makes it hard to get caulk inside the
joint without removing the whole assembly.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River,
I know of one lightning strike that happened when a boat was on the hard at the
same boatyard. The boat was a Bristol 54 I think, very well built and heavily
bonded and protected for a lightning strike. It had that little lightning
dissapator on the top of the mast. All of his electronics were
Got my replacement LEDs this year from MarineBeam also. Nice build and
packaging.
I'll be trying out their new two wire Tricolor/anchor/strobe this season and a
steaming/decklight combo too.
> On April 25, 2018 at 4:27 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi
Hi Dave,
I bought one of those puck light packs 5 or 6 years ago and use them often. I
put them in the pilot berths and inside cubbies and the engine compartment. The
batteries last the season or two if rarely used. I use them as night lights or
stumble lights when we watch TV.
I keep a larger
I need to paint my deck too and I'm not so crazy about Perfection as it is a
two part paint and the flattening agent is another two part additive making it
a tedious process. You have to mix four chemicals to get one paint to apply.
I've seen decks painted with single part Briteside and it's
On my boat the grab rails are matched sets. The outside grab rails have long
(3 or 4 inches long) screws that attach to nuts on the inner grab rails. The
two sandwich the cabin roof in between.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On April 15, 2018 at 12:56 PM Chris
Anyone ever take apart a Harken MkIII Furler?
I installed mine by myself ten years ago and now want to replace the damaged
top section while the mast is out. The stay is rod so I'll have to pull all
the sections off from the bottom to get to the top one. I am worried the
parts won't come
Looks good so far. Can't wait to see the final
> On April 11, 2018 at 3:53 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I started building the hard bimini with the FRP panels from Home Depot
> after speaking to the guys at Jamestown Distributors.
>
> Day 1
>
>
Hadn't hauled the last two years so I have a rather long list. It's like a
refit:
Rewire the mast, changed all lights to LED (mast is out)
Replace sheeves and axles
Replace upper section of furler
Removed all halyards and washed, scrubbed and soaked in Downy to soften them.
Replace two halyards,
Agree with Dennis. Soft shackles don't release on their own though I've only
used them for the headsails for three continuous years. My genoa sheets are
both red, 3/8" maxibraid, after my last genoa was impaled by the spreader when
a very experienced and knowledgeable person crewing for me
Meant to add, the Home Depot sheeting is smooth on one side and pebbled on the
other and you don't have to paint it.
> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I'm going to try to build a hard bimini. The plan is to trace the shape
>
Home Depot sells a fiberglass sheet 4' x 8' and you could use that to make the
finished side. It's less than 1/8" thick so you can bend it pretty easy. Comes
in White or Ivory. There are Youtube videos that show some results.
> On March 16, 2018 at 11:47 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
>
I took a tip from a Don Casey book and changed my intake ell to a tee.
That let's me do a few things. I can rig up a hose and run the engine while on
stands and that let's me test run the engine and transmission before the
travellift pickup. I also can winterize easily in or out of the water. I
I think a backing plate is needed.
I would use G-10 or make my own fiberglass backing plate because I have the
material.
Another option if you don't have anything; Azek. Pick a short length of 1 x 4
trim. It's easy to cut, waterproof, no painting or sealing required. It's
white and it's
Hi Brien,
Have to share this. I don't know what the previous owner used in my 1990 shaft
seal. It does leak slightly when I first launch and when running, but not after
the engine stops. I've owned the boat fifteen years since 2002 and never
tightened the packing. No, I won't take it apart.
I
My two cents,
I had the Martec Folding Eliptic on our boat from 2002 to 2007. I had a few
close calls when it wouldn't open. These may have been my inexperience with a
large boat. It seemed like I needed to put it in reverse at four boat lengths
from the dock to get it to stop reliably in my
Francois,
Thanks for a very thorough response. I learn from your observations, always.
We need to get together for a double handed race n the Chesapeake.
Jim,
younger crew are harder and harder to find. My all-time best crew of 2012 went
to college and graduated and one is a sales rep
Eric,
Will PHRF allow you two ratings? One with the sprit and one with the pole? I'm
considering adding a sprit and top down furler for single handed races.
> On January 31, 2018 at 10:47 AM Eric Baumes via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> That is in place of a standard spin
Hi Edd,
Suggest you take the pump and ram cylinders to a local hydraulics shop that
works on back hoes, loaders and heavy equip. It probably just needs new
O-rings.
I had a leaking seal on the backstay ram and another on the remote pump and the
repair quote from a Navtec dealer for $750
I noticed 15 years ago that every sailboat in every boatyard that races has a
folding or feathering prop. Half of the cruisers have em too. I enjoy my two
blade MaxProp. I followed the dealer's advice and set it up myself to his
specs. The second year I made an adjustment to get a higher
Great method. Great video. Thanks.
> On December 5, 2017 at 10:57 AM Dan via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I've posted a new DIY video of how I used Vapour Barrier to cover the
> boat for winter this year (in the water) - I have a pretty nice green house
> going on right
y
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 28, 2017, 6:55 PM Chuck S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
>
> > >
> > Hey Dave,
> >
> >
I also appreciate the need for good mainsheet systems. I changed the system on
Resolute twice before I settled on the present 5:1/20:1 system. It involved
moving the traveller from behind the pedestal to in front of it. I found the
6:1 purchase was hard to release when loaded up. So I added
Solar Fans are great. Better than opening ports cause the induce air changes
when there is no wind. I installed four in my 36 footer in 2007.
FYI, I recently replaced batteries in my Nicro solar fans and one actually
became quieter. You can't tell it's running. The other, no work at all. Just
Hey Dave,
Found this list of 37/40 boats. Great resource, but I prefer the smaller
sister, Rob Ball's last and most advanced design; the 34/36 model. He did the
37/40 in '88 and the 51' and 34/36 in '89.
http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.com/p/a-list-of-known-c-3740-boat-name.html
FYI, there were
Looked at your photo and it looks like the split is fairing material, not the
real keel. I always follow Dennis' advice, BTW. He's tops. I suggest you
sand/grind fairing down to solid stuff and fill with a waterproof material.
Fair and repaint.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek,
I'll bite since I have owned a 34R now for 15 years with runners and
checkstays. They are a PITA. So is a Baby Stay and that's why you won't find
them on modern designs. Baby Stays went out of vogue in the 80's with most
designers except C who kept them longer than anyone else. To be honest, I
Fred,
I checked the drawings for the 34 and see the baby stay is far in front of the
keel. I suspect the bolt should be attached to a stringer also.
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=1794
That's how it is on my 34R. On my boat they welded a stainless stud to a
stainless
The PO of our boat had the glow plug button separated from the start button
when I got it. The Universal manual for the engine shows them in series,
meaning you'd have to hold both to start the engine so it was Universal's
design, not C's.
> On September 12, 2017 at 12:49 AM "Ronald B.
FWIW, My boat's engine strainer is a glass walled strainer with wingnuts. It is
located high up in the engine compartment and I believe the top is at the
waterline.
> On September 11, 2017 at 1:51 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Patrick,
>
> Yes
Before buying a new starter I would try jumping the big terminals on the
starter with a big screw driver and test the starter. If it fails to jump into
action or hesitates, there are rebuild shops around that rebuild starters and
alternators for cars and boats. I had mine rebuilt in 2005 for
Hi Charlie,
I'm no expert, but I have replaced my lifelines with dyneema and several other
running rigging things. I made a short strop to raise the mainsheet purchase
up off the traveller car and recently changed the wire in my solid vang to
dyneema. I like dyneema because it's so easy to
PHRF ratings are one way to judge potential speed. These came from Long Island
Sound
Redline 41 is rated 120
C 40 standard rig and keel rates 99
C 37/40 rates 66
Each C design improved on speed and interior volume.
The new all carbon Redline 40 rates 18, but not much interior.
My boat is
The Navtec product is high quality but I found they are super expensive. Years
ago I had fluid leaking from the top of the Ram cyliner and unable to hold
pressure for 10 minutes. Tthe closest Navtec dealer, 2.5 hrs away wanted $750
to rebuild it and I had to pay up front before they would
Just sharing an interesting story about 39) J-105's on Chesapeake Bay that
converted from shallow draft to 6' 6" deep draft to be more competitive back in
2003/4. Both Rob Ball and Robert Perry stated to go as deep as you can for
best performance.
i do
> On May 29, 2017 at 9:48 PM "Dennis C. via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> How many of you have a ratcheting block on your furling line?
>
> Dennis C.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations
Forwarding a message from Rod Desborough; (Chuck Resolute)
Rod asks:
Have you ordered the new windows - is it possible to get in on the order?
I have two windows on Aurora ,36XL 1995, that need replacement.
Rod Desborough
Halifax, NS
On April 4, 2017 at 12:39 PM Eric Baumes via CnC-List
At one point early on when the boat is further out it looks like they are
motoring.
They could have anchored to buy time to fix their mainsail, sort things out,
and wait for a tow, but that needed to be set well outside before they steered
themselves into the breaker zone.
Chuck
Solar Fans:
I considered adding some Lewmar opening ports, till I noticed many cruisers had
solar fans installed thru them. So I added two solar fans instead of ports,
one over the Galley, and one over the Ice Box which are the highest points on
the cabin. They made a huge difference. I
Funny, I was just at Bacon's yesterday. Picked up a used mainsail for my boat.
It was 74 degrees, so I went for a harbor cruise and moved my boat to her new
slip. Today we are prepping for an inch of snow and 17 degree temp. Crazy
weather.
> On February 8, 2017 at 10:30 AM "Della Barba, Joe
I lowered and raised the mast on my Cape Dory 22 every year using the boom as a
gin pole. I also lead a team of guys to raise the mast on an O'Day 24. Doesn't
make me an expert, but we got it done safely and securely.
The topping lift must be attached for this.
Two guys who work well
I clean winches in the garage or on the boat using Diesel fuel or old Kerosene.
I use an acid brush to wipe the gears and wipe off gunk with terry cloth (old
face cloths) and final wipe off of solvent using cotton cloth (old tee shirt).
Chuck S
> On January 17, 2017 at 3:15 PM ALAN BERGEN via
FWIW, I looked into splitting the backstay for my 34R and determined I would
forgoe using U Bolts and substitute a length of Stainless Tee section from
McMaster Carr. That would allow me to shape the Tee bar into a proper tang
with one hole for the backstay and six to eight bolts through the
My boat had green treated pine deck lumber for wedges. I replaced them with
wedges of teak from scaps I had. But once wood compresses, it doesn't come
back. If I did it again I'd look for hard rubber matting like a thick door
matt and cut that into shapes to fit the mast collar.
Our boom used to swing across the cockpit right at head level. I had a
sailmaker add a cringle 18" higher on our mainsail leech, kind of a flattening
reef. I heard a cruiser did it to keep his boom above his bimini and called it
a bimini reef. It kept our boom just higher than my head and
A "hand hole" is an inspection hole with a cover large enough to get a hand
through. A "manhole" is larger allowing a man to get through.
> On December 5, 2016 at 2:08 PM "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Inspection plate???
>
> From: David
Hi Dennis,
I read your suggestion about "pocketing the main". 30 to 40% from the
gooseneck positions me on the cabintop. And we are not flaking, but making a
burrito that we stuff and roll up onto the boom and tie with a single sail tie?
Is that right?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad
Boom cracked at boom vang attachment:
I'd get it welded and ask for some reinforcement like an aluminum pipe be
welded or screwed inside to spread the load of the vang. You have a chance to
make the thing stronger, take it.
If you replace it, I'd highly recommend Selden. My personal
Saw some nice pole installs on newer boats using a SS bracket that has a rubber
ball. The radar pole sits on the ball and needs minimal support by the stern
rail. Two guys used these to add an outboard engine davit with purchase.
Looked like Edson fittings.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad
Usually, there is a shop that specializes in alternator and starter repairs for
cars somewhere nearby. Google that for the best price.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> On November 1, 2016 at 2:26 PM David Knecht via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
FWIW, I installed midship cleats 12 years ago. Think I paid $25 for 4 hole
Schaefer stainless 8 inch. I added big and thick aluminum backing plates under
the deck.
http://www.shopsoundboatworks.com/sc6alcl.html?cmp=googleproducts=sc6alcl=CO6i-JD-iNACFRdbhgodCUAFjQ
I had a chance to see a Dock And Go system first hand aboard a friend's boat.
We cruised 10 days thru Holland and docked in many different scenarios aboard a
Beneteau Sense 55.. The owner was very technical and loved the system, though
the bow thruster was sometimes underpowered in the
FWIW, In our area, any boat with a strut has a zinc forward of the cutless
bearing. An engine guy advised me to leave a good 1 inch gap between the zinc
and the bearing to allow for movement caused by engine thrust and to help water
to lubricate the bronze bearing. Full keeled boats or boats
Fender location is critical to sailboats because of the curved shape. If I tie
to a floating dock, I found I can get away with using two big fenders at max
beam, one at the gate and the other at the stanchion 5 ft forward of the gate,
and keep a round ball handy if I need to protect the bow
FWIW, I heard it explained that propwalk originates because the shaft is at an
angle to horizontal. The more angle the more prop walk. Also, more surface area
of the prop causes more prop walk. Sail drives have the least prop walk because
their shaft is horizontal, not at an angle. Power boats
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