Stus-List Re: Bottom paint gallons

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Pete,

Two gallons should be more than enough.

I’ve always purchased two gallons and had nearly half to a third of a gallon 
left over. In non-racing application with a foam roller it has been sufficient. 
And this is on the full keel version.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA


> On Aug 26, 2021, at 6:41 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fist time bottom painting my 37. I bought the paint but now thinking 2 
> gallons isn’t enough for two coats. Pettit Trinidad (hard) label says 
> theoretical coverage is 450 ft²/gallon.
> 
> The 37 is 28’ at the waterline.
> 
> 2 gallons more than enough or not enough?
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Butyl Tape tips

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’m surprised that you had problems with leaks from the butyl used by C

I pulled all the hardware off of my boat and in every instance where butyl was 
used, the core was bone-dry. No leaks. Nada. Zip. None. Dust dry core.

The only leaks that I had were the subsequent deck hardware installations that 
I did (poorly) using 4200 and Sikaflex.

All the re-bedding that I have done has been with the butyl that I purchased 
from the Maine guy...

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA


> On Aug 9, 2021, at 8:29 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I’m surprised for butyl tape don’t know if it really stop leak 
> I had that all over my boat and I had to redo my deck
> Hopefully 4200 will go a long way 
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Checking the list

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

A quick interjection to mention that my wife and I had a lovely dinner with 
Martin and his wife Judy in Port Ludlow a few weeks ago on our way to Alaska. 
We had a good time but unfortunately I was unable to get the chance to see 
Calypso. Hopefully there will be pictures of the finished work.

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA


> On Aug 1, 2021, at 4:59 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> When I mentioned being jealous of how much time my father-in-law was spending 
> aboard his classic wood power boat my wife firmly reminded me I am spending 
> many hours a week onboard its just in the yard with sand paper in hand.
> 
> It is rumored the professional painting crew will begin to prep the topsides 
> next week. Meanwhile I will continue to hand sand and primer coat the deck to 
> prepare for applying “shiny” paint and Kiwi Grip non-skid. I plan to put 
> Calypso back in the water around the first of October.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso 
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle/Port Townsend’s yard 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: New Foresail.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Another endorsement here for John. In a previous life I raced against him. 
Knows his way around boats and sails. Knowledgeable and friendly as I recall.

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA


> On Jul 11, 2021, at 8:21 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a boatload of Jenkins. Good man, good sailor. He makes most of the Log 
> Canoe sails and those for the Star fleet in the Mid-Atlantic. Recommended – 
> we’ll see how they work this year, first race today.
>  
> Gary
>  
> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2021 8:00 AM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Andrew Burton  >
> Subject: Stus-List Re: New Foresail.
>  
> I just ordered a new main from Jenkins Sails in Easton, MD. I chose to go 
> with GPL Lite Skin fabric for its longevity, ability to hold its shape, ease 
> of handling (much lighter than Dacron), and abrasion resistance. 
> Great price; and Jenkins came highly recommended; he was the sailmaker at the 
> naval academy for many years.
> Tell him I told you to call.
> Andy
> Baltic 47 Masquerade
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> 
> phone  +401 965 5260
>  
>  
> On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 11:36 PM Dave S via CnC-List  > wrote:
>> This year I  ordered a ‘performance cruising’ radial cut #2 Genoa from rolly 
>> tasker sails in Thailand - second sail from them, no regrets at all.
>>  
>> Dave 
>> 33-2
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:22 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Im looking online for a new foresail for my 1980  34 C  New prices run 
>>> from $2 to $4,000.  Where do I start?
>>>  
>>> Get Outlook for Android 
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>>   Thanks - Stu
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Rescue at sea.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’m posting this thread because there may those amongst the list that will find 
this interesting.

This post is somewhat C related because the subject of the video upgraded his 
boat near mine. He just did his upgrades with much more alacrity.

Kim is an acquaintance of mine, lives in the same town and has attended more 
than one of our annual Sock Burning Parties. I’ve assisted him with some of his 
projects. Prior to his setting sail for Bermuda, I worked along with another 
very experience offshore sailor (in the yard repainting his Valiant 42 with 
triple spreader carbon rig) to get him prepped and sorted away. The Valiant 
owner leant Kim his life raft. Having raced to Bermuda in the past Kim was keen 
for any insights that I could impart. I told him to stay away from the Swizzle 
Inn rum swizzles and take the round-abouts in a clock-wise direction...

I don’t have any insights or knowledge of events other than what is portrayed 
in the video and I’m not going to speculate. 

This voyage was a long-term dream of Kim’s. His boat is a mid-to-late 80’s 
Jeanneau, around 35 feet.

Rescue at Sea 

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Removing lettering

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Ditto, Part II.

Have one and it is the way to go. And as another lister said, don’t bear down 
on it when using...

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA


> On Apr 21, 2021, at 6:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ditto the 3M Stripe Off Wheel.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Remover-Graphics-diameter-threaded/dp/B0922LTMNC
>  
> 
> 
> The ONLY way to safely remove decals.  Done it several times.  The guy that 
> paints Touche' uses one.  
> 
> There will be very little residue left.  If there is, remove it with mineral 
> spirits.  Mineral spirits will remove most run of the mill adhesives like 
> those used on decals.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double Bulkheads

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Randy,

What Doug said.  I watched that video and that was about the nastiest 
fiberglass repair job I could imagine.  Since you will have to paint the 
outside/cockpit side anyway, go ahead and use good fiberglass hole repair 
procedures (see West System Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance) after which 
just put something nice over the liner holes. There is no reasonable way to 
reproduce the liner integrity.

I’ve done this job and it isn’t hard to do correctly. The only “hard” part is 
filling, fairing and sanding in order to present a fair surface prior to 
painting.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 20, 2021, at 18:25, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Glass over the outside hole, and hang a picture over the inside. 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
> Doug Mountjoy
> Port Orchard YC
> Port Orchard,  WA
> Rebecca Leah
> 1988 LF39 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/20/21 14:39 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Randal Stafford 
> Subject: Stus-List Glassing Over Instrument Holes Through Double Bulkheads
> 
> Listers-
> 
> Grenadine is getting an instrument system update this year and, as part of 
> that, I’ll eventually want to glass over previous instrument holes in the aft 
> cabin wall.
> 
> Last night I watched this video https://youtu.be/T4OHQDs8NKk, which is good, 
> but seems to assume only a single bulkhead - i.e. the “liner” inside the 
> cabin is not there, or is cut away (such as in the video) providing access to 
> the inside of the fiberglass cabin wall.
> 
> Does anyone here know how to neatly glass over the hole in both the exterior 
> wall and the interior liner?  If there’s no good / easy / neat way to do it, 
> I’ll follow the video above for the exterior wall, then just cover the hole 
> in the liner with a screwed-on piece of teak.
> 
> Thanks,
> Randy
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: um From richard - now Airhead

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

No.

It’s completely isolated/dedicated.

Regards,
Dave

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 6, 2021, at 16:56, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I hope you not sourcing water from that port water tank.  Was told to never 
> source fresh water flush from a tank you may be using for consumption, 
> washing etc.  I plumbed a fresh water flush via sink drain “T”.   Easily 
> found on internet.
>  
> From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, April 6, 2021 3:40 PM
> To: C List 
> Cc: Dave Godwin 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead
>  
> Perhaps another route to consider is converting to a fresh water system. On 
> our new boat a previous owner converted the sea-water Lavac vacuum head to 
> freshwater, the source being the port side water tank. Seems to be very good 
> at keeping the odor down although we haven’t had the boat through a summer 
> season yet.
>  
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
> Reedville, VA
> 
> 
> On Apr 6, 2021, at 3:00 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
>  
> Note to self – keep old head.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, April 6, 2021 2:13 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe ; Neil Andersen 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead
>  
> FYI.  As a broker, we are finding that composting head make a boat harder to 
> sell.
>  
> Neil Andersen
> S Yachts
> 443-321-1969
> sts involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
> send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Perhaps another route to consider is converting to a fresh water system. On our 
new boat a previous owner converted the sea-water Lavac vacuum head to 
freshwater, the source being the port side water tank. Seems to be very good at 
keeping the odor down although we haven’t had the boat through a summer season 
yet.

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

> On Apr 6, 2021, at 3:00 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
> Note to self – keep old head.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 6, 2021 2:13 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe  >; Neil Andersen 
> mailto:neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: From richard - now Airhead
>  
> FYI.  As a broker, we are finding that composting head make a boat harder to 
> sell.
>  
> Neil Andersen
> S Yachts
> 443-321-1969
>> sts involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
>> send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C Custom 50 w Weird 2man Winches

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I have to concur with Martin.

Many (many) years ago I crewed on the Sparkman and Stevens designed 60’ 
aluminum race boat “ Brigadoon” against her sistership, “ Running Tide". When I 
saw that structure in the overhead of the main cabin I was pretty sure that it 
was the location/base of a grinder. There was only one on the boat and as 
Martin says, centered. When I saw the turning blocks it furthered my belief 
that this was a serious racing boat with a single grinder.

Unfortunately for me, I was 5’11’’ and 160 lbs. I had no business being part of 
the grinding crew. I did gears 1 and 2 with another guy opposite me and after 
both of us running out of steam during the tack, two other crew jumped in and 
finished off gear 3. We beat them on corrected time. In heavy air.

After racing on that boat and seeing how the afterguard faired vis-vis the 
grunts on the deck I was certain that I would rather own my own race boat. For 
me, better to be a big frog in a small pond that a small frog in a big pond…

FWIW, several of the crew went on to crew on America’s Cup boats. I did not.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

> On Mar 30, 2021, at 7:23 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I crewed on 2 similar sized boats with “coffee grinder” pedestals in 
> approximately the same location close to the mid cockpit. (One was a Frers 49 
> for Transpac 1981, the other a Chance 54 for the 1982 Vic-Maui and Clipper 
> Cup.)
>  
> The location keeps the weight out of the ends and leaves enough room to staff 
> the handles with 2 larger crew.  As I am 6’4” and 190 lbs I was often one of 
> the grinders along with my foredeck duties. On the Chance 54 (Glory out of 
> Seattle) we grinders would compete to see if we could complete a heavy #1 (at 
> the top end of its range) tack without using 1st gear (it was a 3 speed).  
> More than once us deck apes would retire to the rail then hear the trimmer 
> ask us back to take the winch out of 2nd allowing the trimmer to use 1st gear 
> for 1 person sail trimming.
>  
> That C 50 is a pretty cool boat.  It fits nicely between the 70’s era 43s 
> and 61s with features of both.  If any listers get serious about looking at 
> the 50, have the surveyor check for balsa core damage around the plastic 
> framed port in the aft cockpit. A similar port in Calypso had a cracked frame 
> (crew knee pressure?) that allowed significant water intrusion.  I had to 
> re-cored/rebuild Calypso’s entire bulkhead and adjacent surfaces in that area.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle/Port Ludlow
>  
> From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2021 3:32 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
> Subject: Stus-List C Custom 50 w Weird 2man Winches
>  
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1973/c-c-50-custom-3817907/ 
> 
>  
> Interesting boat, but the placement of the 2 man Barients seems AFU.
>  
> Thoughts?
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Now stink boaters anonymous

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hah, this is making me laugh! It’s like the motorcycle forums (NOT starting a 
motorcycle thread!) that I’m on where many, list all their current and former 
rides. Like me…

Not counting the two dinghies:

Snipe
16’ wooden Butler Chesapeake Bay working skiff. A bit of history built 6 doors 
away.
1988 Mako 261 CC with twin 200’s. Makes for very expensive summer lunch runs..
1982 C 37
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

Dave Godwin


> On Mar 19, 2021, at 2:10 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Everyone’s coming out of the hanging locker I guess. 
> 1979 Chaparral 20’ 1986 merc 115 tower of power. But I have a sticker on it 
> that says “I’d rather be sailing”. 
> Jon Pratt 
> 35-3
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 40

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I guess that Stu will have to kick half of me off the list. We have the “hobby 
refit” C 37  and we now have a 34’ Lobster boat/Chesapeake Bay Deadrise 
powerboat.

I enjoy the idea getting to Annapolis in hours as opposed to several days. 
Heating and air-conditioning are nice amenities. Trips down the ICW to visit 
friends in North Carolina are now on the table given that I’m only pulling 3’ 
6” instead of 6’ 8”.

We like to get friends out on the water for short, afternoon wine cruises in 
the summertime and it is much easier to get takers when there is an aft cockpit 
with shade and chairs and the boat doesn’t heel.

Sure, there’s always the noise from the diesel but when cruising at 8-10 knots 
it’s not bad. Running at cruising speed of 15-16 knots is a different issue. 
Fuel consumption at 9-10 knots is around 4.4 GPH and at 16 knots it is 8.6 GPH.

I like just being out on the water, no matter what type of vessel.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

Sent from my iPad

> On 3/18/21 2:54 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List wrote:
> Edd
> 
> You come to the wrong church with that stink-pot talk...just sayin!
> 
> Tom B
> 
> At 09:03 AM 3/18/2021, you wrote:
> 
> Joe,
> 
> We are keeping an open mind, and much will depend one how soon and how much 
> the Enterprise-B sells for. 
> 
> Big winds and big seas aren’t usually an issue here in Southwest Florida 
> and we’d like to get to places like Tampa, Captiva Island, Sanibel, Naples, 
> the Keys and even the east coast or Bahamas without spending days to get 
> there. As Warp 7 (7 knots), Captiva is about 7 hours away. And, it would be 
> great to hop down to Boca Grande or Port Charlotte for lunch without leaving 
> before sunrise :-)
> 
> I think we are leaning towards a sedan bridge boat with an open cockpit. Ones 
> that we have liked so far are the Meridian 341, the Carver 36 Mariner, the 
> Sea Ray 400 SB, the Regal 4080 Commodore, Carver 41 CMY, and so on. 
> 
> I’m well aware of the fuel and maintenance costs along with the issues of 
> docking (I plan to add thrusters, if the boat doesn’t have them), 
> especially since my slip is pretty tight and requires some maneuvering to 
> pull in — I couldn’t single-hand dock with this boat now anyway.  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

More than happy to oblige. I’m going over to the boat later today to install 
some plumbing fixtures and start to lap the 3 seacocks (head and galley sinks 
and engine intake). I want to take some, hopefully, more descriptive photos.

Stay tuned.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

I saw you sneak in Richard.  ;-)

> On Mar 17, 2021, at 9:54 AM, Steve via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dave, I too would like to see some pictures of your windlass installation. 
> I have a 37 as well and am considering putting one in. Thanks.
>  
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: March 16, 2021 9:42 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: John Conklin mailto:jconk...@hotmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth
>  
> Hi Dave  
> I would like the pics on the windless
> I have sister ship  and want to. Cruise more and back is shot so i have green 
> light to get one :)
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net <http://www.flirtingwithfire.net/>
>  
> 
> 
>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>>  
>> Pete, 
>>  
>> Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the 
>> windless in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in 
>> anyway. Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.
>>  
>> I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite 
>> a bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty 
>> quickly.
>>  
>> I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our 
>> boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the 
>> existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted 
>> to avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that 
>> far forward either.
>>  
>> I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port locker 
>> to the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof 
>> glands through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to 
>> existing battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The 
>> solenoid for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the 
>> anchor locker.
>>  
>> Just my $0.02.
>>  
>> Pictures of installation available upon request.
>>  
>> Best regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
>>  
>> P.S. Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion. 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>>  
>>> Hey all,
>>> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a 
>>> new AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty 
>>> of room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my 
>>> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific 
>>> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. 
>>> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, 
>>> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any 
>>> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=04%7C01%7C%7C6e6949cc7505401c1abe08d8e818b760%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637514540137412122%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=mft06Yi11Yi3RjjxD%2BR9BVu0YJxKxt1i3qMKI5Ush74%3D=0>
>>>   Thanks - Stu
>> 
>>  
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Pete,

Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the windless 
in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in anyway. 
Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.

I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought quite a 
bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea pretty 
quickly.

I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of our 
boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to the 
existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so wanted to 
avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery that far 
forward either.

I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port locker to 
the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with waterproof glands 
through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to port (next to existing 
battery switch location) at the base of the companionway steps. The solenoid 
for the control switches are mounted up under deck, to port in the anchor 
locker.

Just my $0.02.

Pictures of installation available upon request.

Best regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

P.S.Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion. 

> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a new 
> AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty of 
> room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my 
> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific 
> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears.
> 
> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, 
> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any 
> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

+1 on the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switch recommendation. Put one on the Rule 
pump in my Mako CC because I was tired of replacing the Rule switches just 
about every year. Not cheap but worth it.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
Reedville, VA

> On Mar 2, 2021, at 1:48 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dennis is the “someone on this list” to whom I recently referred about a 
> floating switch recommendation.  The switch is quite robust.
>  
> From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2021 1:40 PM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps
>  
> The key to a reliable bilge pump system is the float switch.  Install a Ultra 
> Safety Systems bilge switch and sleep with confidence.
>  
> https://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=pumpswitch_price 
> 
>  
> IMHO, they're superior to any others.  I've replaced a number of Rule float 
> switches over the last 3 decades. I've not observed one single USS bilge 
> switch failure.  The SR model has a lifetime warranty.  The others a 5 year 
> warranty.
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Have to go along with the consensus to not pay much attention to the actual 
cost of the paint. Looking at the overall cost of the paint job would be the 
better metric.

My paint costs which were for a gallon of primer, a gallon of custom topcoat 
base, reducers for both, wax and grease remover and surface cleaner, all 
AwlGrip (AwlCraft in my case) came to 3.3% of the entire job.

You shouldn’t need to buy in the same quantities as I did because I have plenty 
left. If anyone is interested.  :-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

> On Feb 25, 2021, at 9:05 AM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The paint costs are but a mere fraction of the paint job.  After all that $ 
> that goes into prep, I would not scrimp on the paint.
>  
> From: Alan Liles via CnC-List  > 
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2021 12:42 AM
> To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Alan Liles mailto:lilesal...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting substitution question
>  
> I had a boat painted with Imron. I was very happy with it. It was somewhat 
> cheaper than Awlgrip but you need supplied fresh air when spraying as it’s 
> fairly toxic. 
> 
> Al Liles
> SV Elendil, C 37/40+
> Vancouver 
>  
> 
> On Feb 24, 2021, at 7:20 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Well, the old Wild Cheri is in bad need of a new paint job.  But rather than 
> a regular expensive marine paint, here's an interesting question:  Since 
> Corvettes and other cars are either fiberglass or plastic these days, 
> couldn't some kind of auto paint work as well on the deck and hull?
> I would imagine auto paint would be less expensive since it's used so often 
> and so widespread.
> Any downside the list can think of?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>   Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Why race? How did you learn?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Charlie,

This thread has been interesting. I was wondering, since you mentioned Old 
Dominion, if you ran across Greg Cutter, professor at ODU who was an active 
member of this list and is a serious racer? He and I have raced together, in 
the past and recently Double-handed Down the Bay races and have had a good 
time. We stay in touch.

As a data point, I started racing as crew in Cruising One Design boats in the 
winter of 1994/95 in Annapolis. Never looked back; it was like crack cocaine 
for me. I crewed every opportunity that I got, all year long, every weekend and 
any other racing that I could attach myself to. Graduated from crew to owing my 
own boat in the early 80’s. Interesting story there; I crewed on my friend’s 
father’s Sparkman & Stevens alumni 60’, Brigadoon against her sister-ship, 
Running Tide in an AYC Fall Series. I was assigned to the only 3-speed grinder 
for the jib. It was very heavy air. I probably weighted about 145 lbs at the 
time. Me and the other grunt were responsible for the first and second gear 
in-haul, after which we were completely exhausted and a second couple jumped in 
and finished off the tack in the fine gear. I would stagger back to the high 
side and wouldn’t even know where we were. I remember looking back to the 
after-guard and having a revelation: I’d rather be a big frog (my own boat) on 
a small boat than a small frog in a big pond…

I crewed or captained on other non-One Design boats, back in the day on 
One-tonners and the like but I just never cared for handicap racing. One design 
was pretty simple: if my competitor was going faster than me, I was doing 
something wrong. And vice versa. Crewed for a good number of famous names in 
Annapolis, around the buoys and off-shore.

Did that for 35 years. Stopped because I had earned the respect of my peers and 
the racing was getting to be like the same old black-and-white movie over and 
over again. The start. The mark roundings. Set the ‘ chute. Take down the 
‘chute. The finish. And primarily because given my intensity on the course, I 
was either going to have an aneurysm or be beaten to death with winch handles 
by my crew. Probably the latter.

When I met my soon-to-be wife, I informed her that sailing/racing was my life. 
If she wasn’t onboard with that, well fine. She said that she liked sailing (if 
I had a dollar for all my girlfriends who said that and then tried to get me to 
take up golf, I’d have a Hinckley…) and that she wanter to learn how to sail. I 
said that the absolute best way to learn to sail was crew on a race boat. She 
quickly responded that she wanted to crew for me. I told her that our 
relationship would have a half-life of two weeks. I put her on my old crew’s 
race boat and things worked out for the best.

So, for me there is not a better way to be able to sail well and comfortably 
than having racing chops in your quiver. I’m still not really a cruiser. I 
can’t anchor to save myself.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

> On Jan 30, 2021, at 5:06 PM, cenelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> +1 on why race Chuck. All your points are valid and they match my own reasons 
> for doing it—plus a few more.
> 
> I got into sailing late in life and had a terrific mentor who was a champion 
> sailor at Old Dominion in college. So I learned what it took to get a boat to 
> maximize its potential—all in PHRF racing. Plus he found crew.
> 
> I found two additional reasons why I race:
> 
> 1) I wanted to earn the respect of the sailors I raced against, most of whom 
> knew a lot more than I about sailing and racing. I thought it would be cool 
> to compete with what I thought were the best sailors, at least locally.
> 
> 2) I found I enjoyed the competition, the thrill of a good start, catching 
> someone to windward or keeping them behind me downwind, etc. among friends 
> was fun! Of course, I was more often behind, than ahead, blew the start, was 
> Lee bowed and left in the gas of other boats and finished DFL! Back at the 
> dock, we commiserated among the crew but often our competitors would come by 
> and congratulate us about a good move even in defeat!
> 
> After many years, I am usually mid-fleet but with enough top finishes to make 
> up for the boat costs and troubles and difficulty of finding and keeping 
> crew. 
> 
> I still love being “...in the game...” and as long as I do, I will race (and 
> sail) on!
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>  
> 
> 
> Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
> 
> 
> On Saturday, January 30, 2021, 1:31 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Why race?
>  
> If you consider the benefits of racing; learning to sail better, getting a 
> boat to perform at it's highest efficiency, learning how to trim sails 
> properly, learning to use the tide and currents, learning a few racing rules 
> and signal flags, learning how 

Stus-List Re: Test email from Calypso

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Received in perfect shape on the Other Coast…

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34

> On Dec 21, 2020, at 5:02 PM, Martin DeYoung  
> wrote:
> 
> I have not received any cnc-list emails for a week.  This is a test to 
> determine if I was able to stumble upon and correct the issue. I use MS 
> Outlook and suspect I accidentally changed something or a recent security 
> software update relegated cnc-list.com  to a “no fly” 
> list.
>  
> I have received non cnc-list emails and PM from other cnc-list participants.  
> A test directly to Stu came through OK.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
>  
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle/Port Ludlow
>  
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Calypso 1971 C 43 update

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Martin,

It’s nice to see your voice back on the list. It’s been awhile.

I had to chuckle a bit at your mention of a 5+ year restoration. I was certain 
the my refit would be done before yours. I’m thinking not  given my rather 
lackadaisical work efforts on our C 37. The COVID-19 shut-down in our lives 
has been a good incentive to focus on the project though. Fortunately I am in 
“put the pieces back together mode” rather than "tear down and rebuild mode".

My wife and I recently purchased another boat in order to keep us out on the 
water. It was her idea because, well, she knows me…

Glad to see Calypso will be going for another 40 years.

Best regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - “Ronin”
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - “Katana"

> On Dec 3, 2020, at 9:05 PM, Martin DeYoung  wrote:
> 
> Calypso’s 5+ year restoration continues, and may be picking up pace.  I got 
> distracted from the rebuild by selling a business, retiring, moving to Port 
> Ludlow (near Port Townsend WA) and of course, the Covid-19 pandemic. A recap:
>  
> Calypso, a C design “Limited Edition” built by Bruckmann’s in late 1970, 
> launched as Arieto in January 1971, hull #1 of +-15 hulls sold. After a 
> successful racing career out of Boston it was sold to the Great Lakes as 
> first Phantom then Esta Es and raced in many Chi-Mac races.  We purchased her 
> in late 1998 and trucked her out west to Seattle.
>  
> From 1999 to 2015 we raced and cruised Calypso around the PNW including a 
> 2015 summer trip around Vancouver Island.  At the end of that summer it was 
> clear the 44 years of hard miles and exposure had taken its toll.  There was 
> rotted balsa core in +-20 sq ft of deck, multiple bulkheads with rotted 
> plywood near the hull, 300 old fastener holes that needed epoxy filling, 
> tired deck, topsides, and interior paint, and many more old boat issues.
>  
> Today, most of the major repairs are complete, some needed structural 
> upgrades added (used the original C drawings to guide us), and she is 
> almost ready for the paint shed planned for this spring or early summer.  We 
> will move Calypso from its Shilshole Bay Marina slip to the Port Ludlow 
> marina as soon as a slip is available.  I can see the marina from my house 
> and drive there in 5 minutes, 6 if there’s traffic so the pace of project 
> completion will pick up considerably.
>  
> Aprox. 5 years ago I switched to following the cnc-list via the digest. The 
> recent list software upgrade pushed me back to the “full meal deal” of 
> receiving all the emails.  As I now have a good working knowledge of them,  I 
> will chime in if I see any questions from owners of Bruckmann built C from 
> the early 70’s.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle/Port Ludlow
>  
> Sent from Mail  for Windows 10
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>   Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Used Garmin gear

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hey Steve,

I’m very sorry but unfortunately bad news; another lister has claimed it.

Best regards,
Dave


> On Dec 5, 2020, at 11:58 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:
> 
> Hey Dave,
>Unless Edd has claimed it already, I would like to have 
> that unit. It would be a good fit for my 1980 CC36 project boat in 
> Florida. I can't deliver the 6 pack of IPA personally, would $200 + shipping 
> cover it?
> 
> Steve Thomas
> CC36 MK1
> Merritt Island, Fl
> 
> 
> -- Original Message --
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: CNC-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: dave.god...@me.com
> Sent: Friday, December 4, 2020 5:22 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Used Garmin gear
> 
>   Listers,
> 
> I have replaced an old, late-90’s era GPS on one of our boats. Obviously, it 
> is dated technology with software and mapping no longer supported by Garmin, 
> hence the reason for replacement. Listed below are the items.
> 
> Garmin GPSMAP 3210 (with charts)
> Garmin GMS 10 Network Expander
> Garmin GSD 22 Digital Remote Sounder
> Associated cabling for all.
> 
> There is no sounder because it is being used for the new GPS unit. The GPS 
> mushroom antenna is not available because rather than tear out a ton of 
> interior woodwork, it will remain as a vestigial item on the mast.
> 
> I thought I’d put this out there in case someone might benefit from these 
> items. If there is any interest let me know. All are available for shipping 
> and a six-pack of good IPA.
> 
> Photos available upon request.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave
> 1982 CC 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast  Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Used Garmin gear

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Edd,

Hah. I just realized after posting that I should have included that. I don’t 
know and now that it’s out of the boat I may have a bit of an issue checking. I 
know that the former owner ran the boat up the Hudson River and out Long Island 
Sound and down to Florida. My guess is that the East Coast is contained.

I will try and ascertain what is on the chip and if I find out I’ll let you 
know.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana

> On Dec 4, 2020, at 5:27 PM, Edd Schillay  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Which area’s charts are preloaded? 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> ———-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ———-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Dec 4, 2020, at 5:22 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> I have replaced an old, late-90’s era GPS on one of our boats. Obviously, it 
> is dated technology with software and mapping no longer supported by Garmin, 
> hence the reason for replacement. Listed below are the items.
> 
> Garmin GPSMAP 3210 (with charts)
> Garmin GMS 10 Network Expander
> Garmin GSD 22 Digital Remote Sounder
> Associated cabling for all.
> 
> There is no sounder because it is being used for the new GPS unit. The GPS 
> mushroom antenna is not available because rather than tear out a ton of 
> interior woodwork, it will remain as a vestigial item on the mast.
> 
> I thought I’d put this out there in case someone might benefit from these 
> items. If there is any interest let me know. All are available for shipping 
> and a six-pack of good IPA.
> 
> Photos available upon request.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Used Garmin gear

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Listers,

I have replaced an old, late-90’s era GPS on one of our boats. Obviously, it is 
dated technology with software and mapping no longer supported by Garmin, hence 
the reason for replacement. Listed below are the items.

Garmin GPSMAP 3210 (with charts)
Garmin GMS 10 Network Expander
Garmin GSD 22 Digital Remote Sounder
Associated cabling for all.

There is no sounder because it is being used for the new GPS unit. The GPS 
mushroom antenna is not available because rather than tear out a ton of 
interior woodwork, it will remain as a vestigial item on the mast.

I thought I’d put this out there in case someone might benefit from these 
items. If there is any interest let me know. All are available for shipping and 
a six-pack of good IPA.

Photos available upon request.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin
1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder post fitting

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Pete,

My rudder is lying on the ground underneath our boat. I’ll be over there 
tomorrow working on her and will take some photos for you. Although it’s been 
so long since I dropped the rudder, I’m pretty sure that that nut is just for 
the emergency steering gear. I have the same play in our boat. I’m having the 
yard fix that this spring. Bushing/bearing work.

Also, for any of the listers who may be interested, I bought another boat. 
Doesn’t have a mast...

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin



> On Nov 22, 2020, at 1:49 PM, pete.shelqu...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> I'm looking for drawings or description of the retaining nut at the top of 
> the rudder post.  Access is from the deck.  Sorry I don't have a photo.   
> There's a lot of play at that point and I'd like to take it apart to 
> review/fix.  
> 
> While on the hard, I presume I need to support the rudder from underneath 
> before removal?  
> 
> Thanks,
> Pete
> 1984 37
> 
> 
> 
> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to 
> this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine Hours

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

This is an interesting, timely and informative thread/discussion. We just 
recently bought another boat with a large Diesel engine.The former owner left 
extensive and detailed documentation. In that documentation are the results 
from engine oil analysis that he performed every year, going back 6 years. I’m 
starting to try and educate myself on this and will continue to do the sampling 
which comes up this November. My initial take is that it is important for 
spotting engine wear/maintenance trends.

Thanks to listers for all the insights.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin

> On Oct 15, 2020, at 4:18 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> I sample my oil and sent for analysis.  Costs $20 but the knowledge of 
> whether or not the oil is good as well as what else could be wrong with the 
> engine is invaluable.  For anyone who cares about the environmental impacts, 
> not changing the oil is better for the environment too.  I use an over-sized 
> oil filter and the very best amsoil marine diesel engine oil.  This 
> particular oil has a high TBN of 12.  IIRC, TBN stand for total base number, 
> you know base... The opposite of acid.  As acids build up in the oil the TBN 
> goes down.  If the person doing the analysis sees that the trend suggests the 
> TBN (or any of the oil specs) will be too close to zero before the next oil 
> change, they modify their recommendations.  
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MaBnvf4Fc9auz-p_Yw-yp5uh-Z7R4N__/view?usp=drivesdk
>  
> 
> 
> Keeping moisture out of the oil is another key to long life.  A block heater 
> keeps the oil dry, the rings from sticking, the cylinders from rusting and 
> the boat warm enough to prevent the bilge from freezing.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 

October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this 
list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass for a C 37+

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Edd,

Although nothing resembling an engineer or fiberglass expert, I constructed a 
1/4” G10 shelf with a 4” x 4” box section underneath it and glassed the entire 
unit to the hull sides and the anchor locker bulkhead with bracing.

I agree with Tom’s recommendation.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 7:19 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Edd
> 
> You really need to glass in a shelf with sufficient strength to withstand the 
> torque and pressure exerted when lifting the anchor an chain.  IMO a bolted 
> shelf is not going to do it.
> 
> Also, keep in mind that the little arm that rests on the chain/rode sticks up 
> about 3/4 in.  You'll want  to mount the windlass as high as possible to make 
> the chain pull angle as horizontal as possible.  However, if you just use the 
> height of the windlass without taking that additional height into account you 
> can't close that hatch to the chain locker.  (Do not ask how I know that)
> 
> You will love it...a decent windlass changes everything.
> 
> Tom B
> 
> ¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
> 
> 
> 
> At 01:15 PM 8/18/2020, you wrote:
> 
> 
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2020 14:30:03 -0400
>> From: Edd Schillay 
>> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>> Subject: Stus-List Anchor Windlass for a C 37+
>> Message-ID: <4c246959-89e2-418f-8c0f-991045bcb...@schillay.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> As you may remember, I?m close to a decision on adding an anchor windlass to 
>> my 37+ C, and, based on my research, I think this may be the one to go 
>> with:
>> 
>> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1=4119164 
>>  < 
>> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1=4119164 
>> > 
>> 
>> For mounting, I think I?m going to create a hanging shelf inside the anchor 
>> locker that is attached by several bolts to the starboard and aft most lip 
>> that the hatch rests upon when closed. 
>> 
>> Good plan? Reconsider? Better ideas?  
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log < http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/ 
>> >
>> 
> .
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass for a C 37+

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Edd,

Mounted my Lewmar horizontal windlass on a custom structural ledge underneath 
the hatch cover. Chain drop into the deepest section of the anchor locker, FWIW.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 2:30 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> As you may remember, I’m close to a decision on adding an anchor windlass to 
> my 37+ C, and, based on my research, I think this may be the one to go with:
> 
> https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1=4119164 
>  
> 
> For mounting, I think I’m going to create a hanging shelf inside the anchor 
> locker that is attached by several bolts to the starboard and aft most lip 
> that the hatch rests upon when closed. 
> 
> Good plan? Reconsider? Better ideas?  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Northeast 39

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

What Rob said. I’ll take as much keel as I can. I run with 6’ 8” on my 37. I 
just stay out of the shallow places.

Of course, that’s easily said in my case. I have nine and a half feet at my 
dock. At low tide…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 2:26 PM, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The project was a limited run boat from the Custom Shop - built by Bruckmann. 
>  Not intended as a comfy cruising boat obviously . . . The market was 
> intended for Long Island Sound and try to come up with something to appeal to 
> C 40 owners looking for something uptick . . . .
> Clearly much more carefully built, and one could add skylights now, but to 
> get reasonable draft obviously a keel job is in order  . . . .
> But it's always a shame to remove the engine from a Ferrari and put in a 
> Chevy replacement . . .
> 
> Rob Ball
> C 34 Escapade
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Why isn't this boat selling?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I do too! I do! Honest!

/opens mouth and inserts foot/

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 12:20 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Why not Jade Mist Green?
> I think it is beautiful !
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2020 10:52 AM
> To: C List
> Cc: Dave Godwin
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Why isn't this boat selling?
>  
> Harry Hallgring. After seeing his boat and talking to him at NEB, I decided 
> NOT to paint my hull Jade Mist Green. ;-)
>  
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> 
> 
> On Aug 18, 2020, at 10:45 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> I know that boat. It is in fabulous shape. The owner works at the boatyard. 
> Hell of a nice guy too. I think he’s here on the list occasionally.
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> <http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/>
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Why isn't this boat selling?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Harry Hallgring. After seeing his boat and talking to him at NEB, I decided NOT 
to paint my hull Jade Mist Green. ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 10:45 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I know that boat. It is in fabulous shape. The owner works at the boatyard. 
> Hell of a nice guy too. I think he’s here on the list occasionally.
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Why isn't this boat selling?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Well, I’m very, very partial to the color scheme so that’s a plus.  ;-)

But to maybe to try and answer the question, almost no-one is buying sailboats 
these days. Especially 35-year old used boats in the $50,000 range. Everyone is 
pandemic-buying motorboats, primarily in the 20 to 30 foot 
center-console/run-about genre. I could probably sell my old 1988 Mako 261 for 
over half the value of the Northeast.

Example: I started looking at True North 38’s recently. There was a 2006 
modferl in Florida with a weird add-on flybridge that languished on the market 
for over a year. It just got snapped up at some price probably around the 
$139,900 asking price.

As we all know, all you “need” to master when owning a powerboat is how to turn 
it on and steer. :-0

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Aug 18, 2020, at 10:32 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/c-c-39-northeast-3607801/
> 
> This boat seems to be much better built than the average C or any other 
> boat. I would buy this boat myself except for two things:
> 
> 1. I would need to saw off about 3 feet from the keel, which could possibly 
> make the boat not quite as stable. 6 foot draft would be aground in my slip 
> at dead low tide as it is and there are times I can't get out with 5.5 foot 
> draft now.
> 
> 2. Original Volvo Saildrive has to be about 99% of the way to replacement at 
> this point.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Having never purchased a boat ...

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

… through a broker/brokerage, I was wondering what the steps are and 
expectations when doing so. I’m a naif in this arena.

I know there are very knowledgeable folks on this list and am hoping for a 
short explanation of how I should approach a boat purchase.


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Isaias

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Reporting in from Reedville.

We had a series of tornados land all around. Pavilion next to my powerboat 
shattered the uprights as the metal roof peeled off. Owner’s son had a tree 
limb crush the bed of his pickup while was driving. All of this about 1/4 mile 
from my boat shed and Ronin. 

 My friend who is keeping is ‘79 Tartan 37 at my dock lost 14 trees in his yard 
in Fleeton. Twisted off halfway up. Nearby town center struck and trashed. No 
power here. 

“Ronin” rode it out no problem. Shed didn’t take off for Kansas.

Working a cold Stone IPA... ;-)

Regards,
Dave
Ronin - 1982 C 37

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 4, 2020, at 10:54 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> How can I? I thought the list would not send photos.
> 
> Joe
> 
> On 8/4/2020 10:42 AM, Richard Bush wrote:

>> Joe, send photos if you can!
>> 
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River Mile 584;
>> 
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> 502-584-
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Isaias

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Closed up, no mast, no keel and inside a shed. Guess there’s some benefit to a 
long drawn out project.  ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Aug 3, 2020, at 7:42 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> How is everyone set for Isaias? Forecast here is for about 25-30 from the 
> east, which is actually a fun day sailing from here. What worries me is the 
> several times the actual storm is a lot worse.
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 35 MK3 lifting hull off keel

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

David,

Our 37’ is a somewhat larger “version” of you boat. Keel comes off no problem.

Lifting the hull link. 


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 30, 2020, at 9:07 AM, David Swensen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I purchased the owners manual, which has a diagram of the keel hull joint. 
> The diagram shows the keel bolts to be at an angle and not vertical. This 
> would make it tricky to raise the hull off the keel. 
> The bolts appear to be vertical when looking at them in the cabin. Can anyone 
> who has lifted the hull from the keel please comment on the angle of the 
> bolts? 
> Thanks.
> David Swensen
> S/v Freya 
> 35 MK3
> Salem, MA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Listers Age Range

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Sounds familiar Jim.

68. Started riding at 17. Sailing/racing sailboats at 25. I’m slated today and 
tomorrow to change the oil, tighten the chain and slip on a new rear tire on my 
2017 KTM Super 1290 GT for an upcoming trip this weekend...

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> 
> These ages parallel the informal surveys from various motorcycle groups I 
> belong to. Maybe youngsters don't like motion?
> 
> I'm 64 and have been motorcycling most of my life, and sailing for 2/3s of 
> it.  
> 
> Jim Hesketh
> C 26
> Miami, Fl
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Zoom Rendezvous

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Stu, you shouldn’t need to purchase anything. We have a full-boat (pun...) 
version and can host a session. Others may have it too. 

Regards,
Dave
1982 37’

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 14, 2020, at 7:46 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I have the zoom with unlimited zoom
> It a great idea when did you want to do it?
> 
>> On Tue, Jul 14, 2020 at 7:11 PM Stu via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I think the idea of a pre-scheduled zoom rendezvous is great.  It is a 
>> chance to actually put faces on names and not have to worry about catching 
>> the virus or getting out of your pajamas to attend.
>>  
>> Zoom is relatively inexpensive.  You can get a free plan for 40 minutes – 
>> not time for much to happen.  The pricing plan is a little hard to 
>> understand (is it $20 or $2000).  I’ll see if I can get some clarification.
>>  
>> Anybody have other ideas of conference calling programs – Facebook Rooms, 
>> Skype, etc.  Ideas for hosting – meet and greet, specific topics from a 
>> knowledgeable person, or other ideas?
>>  
>> Let me know and I’ll see what I can put together.
>>  
>> Stu
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Joel Delamirande
> 
> www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 37 vs Hurricane Dorian

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Great story with a good ending. Another reason to keep “Ronin” in a shed sans 
keel and mast.  ;-)

Also. Nice boat…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 9, 2020, at 1:42 PM, NORTHERN LIGHT via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> @ Dennis, LOL, that was just one crazy summer…we had many years of 
> trouble-free, happy cruising all over.
> 
> Chris
> NL

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Rob,

Excellent. Nice that it worked out for you. I replaced all my stanchions. Which 
was the plan anyway...

"Next project?”

Coming down and being the “second man” holding all the bolts as I finish 
putting the pushpin, pulpit and a few extraneous pieces of hardware back on?  
:-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


> On Jul 8, 2020, at 9:41 AM, Robert Abbott  wrote:
> 
> With the aid of the Snap On Impact Driver, I removed the stanchion base and 
> stanchion (stanchion was seized in the base) and gave it to my dock 
> neighbor who took it home last Friday..  He is a retired machinist who has a 
> workshop in his basement.  I went to the boat yesterday and the repaired unit 
> was in the cockpit.  I am pretty sure he replaced the stanchion because this 
> one is not scratched up at the base as was the old one.
> 
> With the assistance of another dock neighbor holding the screw driver on the 
> two deck bolts, I tightened the nuts below the deck.  
> 
> Next project?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 7/2/2020 5:34 PM, Dave Godwin wrote:

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marina/Dock/Pier potable water warning

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Perfect timing Dennis. ;-)

That problem was “solved” by the guys that rebuilt my dock last winter. 
Solution: cut everything attached to the old dock and pitch it. Wiring, 
fixtures, water line…

Tide is falling right now and low tide it s 10:01. Some coffee and I’m off to 
bump around underneath the dock. Electrical conduit and wiring at moment, water 
line later.

New dock. 


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 7, 2020, at 10:48 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Meant to post this last week.
> 
> I was working on a friend's boat and needed some weights to hold something in 
> place until an adhesive cured.  I'd brought several clear plastic juice 
> bottles for the purpose.
> 
> I went to fill the first one from a potable water faucet on the pier.  OMG!  
> I couldn't believe nor could I describe the "stuff" that came out of the 
> faucet into the plastic bottles.  It was disgusting!  This faucet must have 
> been idle for quite some time.  Further, it was on a long down leg from the 
> main line which ran above under the roofed pier.  Sediment must have been 
> accumulating in the down leg for years.
> 
> So, my caution is to always liberally purge potable water supply faucets on 
> piers.  You don't know how long that particular faucet, supply leg, etc. has 
> been idle.  You don't know if some strange insect has taken up residence in 
> the faucet. 
> 
> Purge.  Purge. Purge.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Shift lever

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

John,

I may still have those style levers from the original 1982 Edson installation 
on our boat. I’ll need to do some “searching” through my sheds filled with junk 
but that is a process I’m already engaged in at the moment.

If found, free.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 6, 2020, at 8:31 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> John,
> The levers you describe are no longer made by Edson.  It’s conceivable that 
> you could 3D print a new one from the existing pieces but chances are good 
> you will need to swap out engine controls to either an Edson 870 or 816 
> control housing.  Your cables would get re routed inside the pedestal and you 
> would lose the extra tubes.
> 
> I believe the control on the boat is currently a model 737 control.
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> S/V Half Magic 
> 1983 Landfall 35
> (With the same engine controls)
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Wish I had talked to you…. ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 2, 2020, at 4:41 PM, billbr...@ns.sympatico.ca wrote:
> 
> I've had success with penetrating oil applied over a few days. After the 
> second day a used a pipe wrench to rotate the stanchion a micro turn one way 
> then the other way (while applying even more penetrating oil).   On the third 
> day it popped out no problem. 
> 
> Bill Bruce 
> Landfall 38

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Seized SS Screw

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Rob,

Be careful about pulling the stanchions out of the aluminum bases. Hopefully 
yours will slip right out.

ALL of my S.S. stanchions were fundamentally welded to the cast aluminum bases. 
I spent may hours/days soaking in solvents and heating. Wash, rinse, repeat. 
Did not loosen them one bit.  A buddy with an acetylene torch took a crack at 
with the higher heat.

After applying the heat, he started banging on the aluminum base to free it. 
Which is exactly what happened when the base disintegrated. That proved to be a 
costly lesson…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 2, 2020, at 10:49 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> A fellow sailor, who is also a machinist, lent me his Snap On Impact 
> Driver...it got the seized SS screw out.  In order to remove the stanchion 
> from the base, I will have to remove the stanchion base from the deck and he 
> will take it to his shop (basement in this case) to separate them and 
> straighten the stanchion.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Marine Fork Lift vs Travel Lift - C 34+ ?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

This thread reminded me that I just had to have my powerboat lifted onto a 
trailer and the boatyard had a new forklift and used straps attached to the 
forks. One way of doing it I suppose. Perhaps your yard can do something like 
this.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMYcfJir3uOHBS6Ini_IakC_HMUPcZe_AgIZw_w 


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jul 1, 2020, at 8:48 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The (relatively few) marina trucks we built while I was at Hyster Company 
> usually had forks about 12 to 16 feet long and were rated at a load center 
> 48” out from the face of the forks. But power boats tend to have all the 
> heavy stuff like tankage, engine, outdrive, etc in the aft end of the boat. 
> Picking up a 32 foot power boat from the aft end is a pretty straightforward 
> thing to do, because the center of gravity of the boat is likely in the aft 
> 25% of the boat.
>  
> You have several thousand pounds of keel about 17 feet in front of the 
> transom, and the center of gravity of a sailboat is, by design, pretty near 
> the center of the boat. The dry sailed boats around here are generally 
> launched by travel lift the day before race day.
>  
> That said, your marina operator knows his machinery, and he’s liable for any 
> damage if he drops the boat. YMMV, but be careful.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Agreed!

Which is why I mentioned that my expenditure was in 1998. The whole deal came 
in around the $1,200 for both.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 4:09 PM, Donald Kern via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Your estimate is a little dated.  Below is an A estimate (Mar 2020) to 
> refurbish the original forward hatch (A model XR300) on 1974 C 35 Mk2:
> Labor- $250
> 1/2” lens - $500
> Gasket - $55.65
> Seals for through hardware - $65
> Polishing anodizing $200
> Total  $1070.65
> 
> Shipping back and forth is usually in the $60-$80 range. USD$ pricing
> 
> Don Kern
> Fireball C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
> 
> 
> On 6/25/2020 3:46 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>> Joe,
>> 
>> I have both 
>> <https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMx0nFLDW6xl4xCpr-jTfdV-zp1-Quvwm_2HS62>
>>  an original 24” x 24” Atkins and Hoyle hatch and a new 24” Lewmar Ocean 
>> hatch on my boat. Because I stupidly bent the lower frame 
>> <https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPIn4ALMGZdZjgL4JbSdlKXcYpr3ZPgWWt8zsFd>
>>  while pulling all my deck hardware I needed a replacement, ergo the 
>> mismatch.
>> 
>> Although not as sexy as the Lewmar Ocean hatch 
>> <https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNi6CPoYD8rPp8pvef2fz2b8R-QQxLmG0Jga57J>,
>>  I think that the A is a much sturdier and rugged item. As others have 
>> noted, around $600 USD. The good news is that it was 90% drop into place and 
>> matching up with the C finished cutout. And the A can be reversed if you 
>> have a mind.
>> 
>> I had A completely rebuild both hatches back in 1998 and with shipping it 
>> came to ~$600 USD per hatch…
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:26 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Joe:
>>> 
>>> Any time I can buy the materials and do the work myself, the money I save 
>>> buys a new tool for me. If you buy a standard size piece of 
>>> acrylic,  you can cut the hatch lens yourself, and also not have to pay 
>>> for the labor and wasted pieces of acrylic that you didn't use. So, for a 
>>> piece of 19" x 19" you might be paying for a piece of 24" x 48" (or 
>>> whatever width the acrylic comes in) plus labor. If you can get the old 
>>> lens out, you can cut the new one, and use a router and pattern bit to make 
>>> the new one. I'm sure you can find a use for the leftover acrylic.
>>> 
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>> Rose City YC
>>> Portland, OR
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 12:01 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and 
>>> checking around:
>>> To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to 
>>> $600 est.
>>> Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast 
>>> acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic 
>>> pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
>>> Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
>>> New AH hatch - $1800.
>>> I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a 
>>> new hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new 
>>> Lewmar Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?
>>> 
>>> This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have 
>>> this fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV 
>>> has to be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.dellabarba.com__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQLszzVEE$
>>>  
>>> <https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.dellabarba.com__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQLszzVEE$>
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each an

Re: Stus-List Matching non-skid during deck repairs

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Patrick and Kari,

Although probably not a reasonable solution if you are doing a small area or 
repair job, I used AwlGrip’s GripTex 

 material when I repainted my decks. IMO, it was an exact match to the old worn 
away non-skip on my model. No regrets.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 1:27 PM, Patrick Gateley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am doing some deck repairs and I realized I'm not certain how to recreate 
> the non-skid look. I found a boat forum post that is from an old C service 
> tech and he claims that in the factory they applied the gel coat, then used a 
> roller brush of some sort to create this effect.
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated.
> 
> P.S. I am aware of a variety of non-skid products but would like to match the 
> OEM process as close as possible.
> 
> Patrick and Kari Gateley
> 1988 C 44' "Odessa"
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List economics of hatches

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Joe,

I have both 
 
an original 24” x 24” Atkins and Hoyle hatch and a new 24” Lewmar Ocean hatch 
on my boat. Because I stupidly bent the lower frame 
 
while pulling all my deck hardware I needed a replacement, ergo the mismatch.

Although not as sexy as the Lewmar Ocean hatch 
, 
I think that the A is a much sturdier and rugged item. As others have noted, 
around $600 USD. The good news is that it was 90% drop into place and matching 
up with the C finished cutout. And the A can be reversed if you have a mind.

I had A completely rebuild both hatches back in 1998 and with shipping it 
came to ~$600 USD per hatch…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:26 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Joe:
> 
> Any time I can buy the materials and do the work myself, the money I save 
> buys a new tool for me. If you buy a standard size piece of acrylic,  you can 
> cut the hatch lens yourself, and also not have to pay for the labor and 
> wasted pieces of acrylic that you didn't use. So, for a piece of 19" x 19" 
> you might be paying for a piece of 24" x 48" (or whatever width the acrylic 
> comes in) plus labor. If you can get the old lens out, you can cut the new 
> one, and use a router and pattern bit to make the new one. I'm sure you can 
> find a use for the leftover acrylic.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> On Thu, Jun 25, 2020 at 12:01 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Since this seems to be hatch week, here goes after numerous calls and 
> checking around:
> To have new glass and gaskets put in my hatch by someone else - $450 to $600 
> est.
> Parts to DIY - Probably at least $300, getting a 19x19x1/2" piece of cast 
> acrylic cut is not cheap plus the gaskets and sealers. Buying the acrylic 
> pre-cut is about $550 from AH.
> Brand new Lewmar Ocean 60 hatch - about $600.
> New AH hatch - $1800.
> I am trying to wrap my mind around it being about the same to just buy a new 
> hatch as pay someone to fix it. Does anyone have an opinion on new Lewmar 
> Ocean (not the cheap low profile ones) vs. 47 year-old A-H?
> 
> This all started because my gaskets are getting a bit ratty, but I have this 
> fear one day I'll step right through the hatch at some point. The UV has to 
> be doing a job on it coming up on 50 years.
> 
> 
> 
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.dellabarba.com__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQLszzVEE$
>  
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!-XxntstlzBPjAZ41zME0jnlSXRXs79mx8INeYLdack3g9rY-6PF1zdiK2OsQ-W3tY6o$
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New plastic plumbing fixtures

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I used a couple of items from Scandvik. Galley:

https://www.scandvik.com/index.cfm?method=products_detail=115

Head:

https://www.scandvik.com/index.cfm?method=products_detail=96

Reasonable pricing and appear to be of high quality. 

Regards,
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 19, 2020, at 3:23 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Why not just get a decent Hansgrohe or Moen,  these RV types are kind of 
> crappy. Unless you need the type that pull out for a shower head.
>  
> https://www.faucetdepot.com/faucetdepot/main.asp
>  
> Bill Coleman
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, June 19, 2020 1:03 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: John Irvin
> Subject: Re: Stus-List New plastic plumbing fixtures
>  
> Trailer dealers
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> On Jun 19, 2020, at 12:56 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I want to replace my now 25 year old galley and head sink fixtures with more 
> modern ones--the picture Dennis sent of his head redo showed nice white 
> plastic types.
>  
> Any suggestions from the list on where to look for some?
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Oh yeah, I get it. Four very old B & G instruments on the port bulkhead for me.

But your solution looks fine and is completely out shown (out shined?) by the 
beautiful finish on the teak trim and hatch boards. 

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipOnCfBnU2tq1-LZI01LcvVEbGZKzf2Tp0lx_7Z2 


https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMYr08C0A1ezTXCCTzkQrIohP6zFtWjrPx1RoqG 


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 14, 2020, at 7:12 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Touche' had LARGE instruments when I bought it.  I think they were Kenyons.  
> Anyway, I hate to admit it but I just covered the holes with StarBoard 
> sandwiches and mounted the new instruments in the StarBoard.  See:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsSEdLX1h5eXJLUUU/view?usp=sharing 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I know, kinda bad for a guy who did fiberglass and gelcoat repairs on 
> everybody else's boat.  Just never got around to filling the holes.  Mostly 
> because matching the headliner would be a pain.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: boat painting in Washington NC

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

“That is exactly how the job should be done.”

Perhaps.

I’m going to keep my thoughts confined to hulls that are sprayed, not 
roll-and-tipped.

I’ve found that there are varying degrees of paint jobs done to boats. This 
I’ve learned from having my hull painted and from painting the topsides myself 
and in many conversations with pros.

Some owners will have a “simple” paint job where the existing gelcoat or older 
paint is sanded for adhesion, small dings repaired and then a high-build primer 
applied and sanded. From there a topcoat is applied. Simple, effective and 
quick. This keeps the overall costs down, clearly. Oft times items like 
print-through, dimpling and highs spots are still apparent.

Some paint jobs have the entire boat sanded (paint or gelcoat), repaired and 
faired, generally with a quality orbital sander. From there multiple layers of 
primers are shot, sanded fair, shot again and sanded again. Afterwards the 
topcoat is applied. I’ve found that many painters prefer to use acrylic 
urethane paints as opposed to polyester urethane because it flows out well, has 
a high gloss and most importantly, can be sanded/polished to remove orange 
peel, runs and overspray. Final results are very, very nice.

Where pricing starts to head for the stratosphere is when the second scenario 
is combined with fairing the entire hull. Long board sanding. This takes a lot 
of time and soft and hard primers. Dry guide coats between primer shots to 
identify scratches, low spots and the quality of the fairing work. Only when 
all surfaces are smooth and perfectly fair is the topcoat applied.

Although I pulled all the hardware except the toe-rail when I repainted the 
decks myself, I would think long and hard about doing that again.   Rick makes 
very good points for just taping around hardware. There are issues of paint 
longevity and peeling because of moisture though.

Because I tend to “gild the lily” I was fine with pulling the hardware. It also 
allowed me to “upgrade” the look by adding gloss relief around winches, 
stanchion bases and deck fittings as opposed to the stock paint job which was 
90% non-skid with hardware bolted over top. Have I mentioned “gilding the lily”?

For those interested, the cost of painting the hull of “Ronin” was $400/foot.

So, I have a old Mako 261 that is long in the tooth and someday will get a 
complete topsides, cockpit and hull paint. I will be doing the scenario mention 
at the beginning.  ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

P.S. Rob Ball, thanks for designing a boat that makes all the effort and 
expense worthwhile...

> On Jun 13, 2020, at 3:27 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That’s exactly how the job should be done. 
> 
> On Sat, Jun 13, 2020 at 3:51 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> To me "Topsides" is from the water line up to the toerail/gunnel - so it is 
> the sides and stern of the boat. Bottom paint goes on the bottom (which in my 
> case ends about an inch or so above the actual waterline). The deck is the 
> deck.
> 
> My topside paint job included painting the stern, the cove strip, the C 
> stars & daggers, and the boot stripe (which is actually 3 stripes of 
> decreasing width from about 4" above the waterline) all painted in red 
> Alexseal. The rest of the hull was painted off white before the red portions 
> were added. Yes, they removed the hardware (essentially the bow lights, stern 
> lights, rear boarding step, and the boarding ladder and reinstalled after the 
> paint job. They also removed and replaced the decals for the boat name and 
> logos on each  quarter and the hail port and yacht club decals on the 
> transom. I purchased the decals myself.
> 
> Since someone asked about the deck, I had that repainted, too. 
> 
> I had a soft spot in the core of the cockpit aft of the helm. Probably 12-14 
> square feet of core needed to be replaced. The outer skin was removed, the 
> old core removed, the inner skin raised back up to make the deck surface 
> level after the job was done, new core was installed (on my 38 there was 
> actually a layer of balsa and a layer of plywood that totaled at least 3/4 
> inch thick), and the old skin was glassed back in place. Repair of the soft 
> spot became the driver for repainting the deck. 
> 
> We used off white Interdeck (Interdeck with non-skid additive on the non-skid 
> areas). The only hardware removed was the hand rails, the Nicro power vents, 
> and the hardware for the dodger. Windlass, winches, genoa tracks, rope 
> clutches, the base of the radar arch, radar pole, etc (da*n there is a lot of 
> deck hardware) were all masked and painted around. My person attitude about 
> removing the hardware is along the lines of  "If the core under the hardware 
> is sound and there is no leak, why remove and rebed the hardware - and risk a 
> new leak - just to 

Re: Stus-List CnC 39? Comments please

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Harry Hallgring.

Owner of Mirage, Northeast 39 lying NEB.

Years ago after delivering a J-120 to NEB.  I walked over and talked to him at 
length. I was contemplating the colors that I might paint “Ronin” and was 
leaning to some of green. I had been really impressed with the color that Harry 
painted Mirage and when seeing it outside, up close and in the water I was sold.

Very nice guy. FWIW, he didn’t do that much of the work. Basically payment in 
kind for the work he does for NEB. As I recall, and I may be wrong, but he was 
a retired fire chief.

Anyway, you may see some similarity between his boat and mine.  ;-)

Columbia Grey 


Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 9, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The fellow who owns that NorthEast was on the list for a time, he posted a 
> lot of his progress pictures as he refurbished that boat, I believe he works 
> at the Portsmouth yard.  So he really knew what he was doing.  He did a 
> bang-up job on it. Having done a lot of that work on my 39 I would say buying 
> something like that, that some poor dreamer did all the hard work on, with 
> blood, sweat, and tears is the only way I would buy a boat now, because you 
> probably only make a quarter an hour for all your hard labor. If that.
> 
> https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/c-c-39-northeast-3607801/
> 
> It does scream IOR, tho - - -
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
> 
> -Original Message-

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Anchor Windlass - 37+

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Edd, might have been me. Others have done this too. Photo on the way so you can 
verify.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 2:48 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> Long ago, in the beforetime, there was a posting by a C’er who installed a 
> shelf and windless inside his anchor locker - and I think it was on a 37+, 
> though not positive about the boat. 
> 
> Would love to see photos and info about installation, materials and windless 
> used. 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New Windows 1987 MKIII

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Steve and Larry,

Lunch over so I’m off to continue work on another very recent C List item, 
stanchions, stanchion bases and the screws that secure them. In my case though 
I’m installing all new S.S. stanchions…

I will put together a package (thanks to Richard Bush for saving my 
instructions…) this afternoon and send them on to both of you.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:28 AM, Larry via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dave
> I am interested also
> Larry
> izzd...@icloud.com
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> 
>>> On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Steve Franks via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hey everyone
>>> I’m in the processing of purchasing a 1987 35 mkiii. It’ll be my second 
>>> boat and plan to get it up to snuff for sea of Cortez later this year. 
>>> On my short list is replacing the port light windows on both sides. Trying 
>>> to see if anyone has a resource for replacements or a file I could shop 
>>> around with to have new ones cut. Appreciate your help in advance. By the 
>>> way I got a quote from leaky windows and they wanted 2k for the kit so 
>>> that’s what I’m working with so far. 
>>> Best
>>> Steve
>>> -- 
>>> Steve Franks
>>> 949.370.4563
>>> www.stevefranks.work 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New Windows 1987 MKIII

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Steve,

There are many here on this email list that have done this job on their boats. 
I just did it again last Fall.

Rather than boor the list yet again, if you want I can send you some 
instructions on how I did it. Everyone has their own distinct method and I’m 
sure that you will get a lot of really good suggestions.

FWIW, $2,000.00 sounds a bit on the expensive side.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:00 AM, Steve Franks via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone
> I’m in the processing of purchasing a 1987 35 mkiii. It’ll be my second boat 
> and plan to get it up to snuff for sea of Cortez later this year. 
> On my short list is replacing the port light windows on both sides. Trying to 
> see if anyone has a resource for replacements or a file I could shop around 
> with to have new ones cut. Appreciate your help in advance. By the way I got 
> a quote from leaky windows and they wanted 2k for the kit so that’s what I’m 
> working with so far. 
> Best
> Steve
> -- 
> Steve Franks
> 949.370.4563
> www.stevefranks.work 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 32 - toerail bolts

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Adam,

Confirmed. Toe-rail bolts for a 1982 C 37’ are 1/4”-20.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

> On May 30, 2020, at 10:58 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Adam,
> 
> I’m 99.999% certain that you will find that your toenail is bolted down using 
> 1/4-20 Phillips Oval Head (machine) screws. Length dependent on your 
> hull/deck joint. IN the U.S. I buy them in bulk from McMaster-Carr. Much 
> cheaper that way. When I was in Melbourne last I didn’t run across any 
> hardware stores so dunno…. ;-)
> 
> I suspect that as I found, 80/85% of all fasteners that I removed from my 
> topsides were that size bolt.
> 
> I’m on my way to my boat to continue working on installing new lifeline 
> stanchions and will measure just to be absolutely sure.
> 
> Stay tuned.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On May 30, 2020, at 4:57 AM, Adam Johnson via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all, 
>> 
>> I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C 32 
>> is moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can 
>> finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both 
>> sides, many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some 
>> really need to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size, min 
>> length etc and good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to need 
>> 30-40 of them. 
>> 
>> Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use on 
>> new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced 
>> some butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products 
>> here.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Adam Johnson
>> '84 C 32 
>> Melbourne, Australia
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 32 - toerail bolts

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Adam,

I’m 99.999% certain that you will find that your toenail is bolted down using 
1/4-20 Phillips Oval Head (machine) screws. Length dependent on your hull/deck 
joint. IN the U.S. I buy them in bulk from McMaster-Carr. Much cheaper that 
way. When I was in Melbourne last I didn’t run across any hardware stores so 
dunno…. ;-)

I suspect that as I found, 80/85% of all fasteners that I removed from my 
topsides were that size bolt.

I’m on my way to my boat to continue working on installing new lifeline 
stanchions and will measure just to be absolutely sure.

Stay tuned.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 30, 2020, at 4:57 AM, Adam Johnson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> I am currently stuck in lock down a long way from where my new to me C 32 
> is moored hence seeking information to plan out some spring jobs when I can 
> finally get back. Leaking toe rail bolts from midships to stern on both 
> sides, many showing heavy corrosion. Will attempt tightening however some 
> really need to be replaced. Anyone know the type of bolt used i.e. size, min 
> length etc and good online source to order from? Assume I'm going to need 
> 30-40 of them. 
> 
> Secondly - assuming i dont lift the rail, any view on best sealant to use on 
> new bolts going in or for those needing some new sealant? I have sourced some 
> butyl tape from maine sail in the US plus have access to sika products here.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Adam Johnson
> '84 C 32 
> Melbourne, Australia
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

John, links there. Second one, not first..,,

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2020, at 11:00 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  Found it bought it 
> Replacing few barients with self tailing so that’s first application
> Good?
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon
> S/V Heartbeat
> www.flirtingwithfire.com
> 
> 
>>> On May 23, 2020, at 10:26 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> https://shop.marinehowto.com/t/bed-it-tape
>> 
>>> On Sat, May 23, 2020, 10:23 John Conklin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Don’t see the bed it on Amazon 
>>> Few other Colormetrics -GSSI
>>> Link please.
>>> 
>>> John Conklin 
>>> S/V Halcyon
>>> S/V Heartbeat
>>> www.flirtingwithfire.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On May 22, 2020, at 9:24 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>  This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under 
>>>> the hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon (of course…). 
>>>> Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into the 
>>>> caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start removing 
>>>> the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little bits 
>>>> and pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not 
>>>> see any evidence of caulk.
>>>> 
>>>> And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape 
>>>> which I source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), 
>>>> “How To Marine.”  Link.  Read his butyl tape posts and you’ll be convinced.
>>>> 
>>>> Regards,
>>>> Dave Godwin
>>>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>>>> 
>>>>> On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
>>>>> observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the 
>>>>> same properties as the original C material, and I find it goes on much 
>>>>> quicker than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that 
>>>>> roll will last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of 
>>>>> you. 
>>>>> 
>>>>> I am 100% sold on butyl.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Bruce Whitmore 
>>>>> 1994 C 37/40+
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from Samsung tablet.
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
>>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
>>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List APS is closing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Shame really. It’s just a block away from my yacht club and I used to walk over 
all the time to purchase stuff, often as an emergency purchase before a race.

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 1:25 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Agreed.  As I also did a bit of one design racing over the past 10 or so 
> years in Lasers and Etchells, APS was one of the few one stop dealers on the 
> East Coast where you could buy hard and soft goods.  I don’t know how much 
> the SNAFU with Laser Performance hurt their ability to service the small boat 
> market which was a high percentage of their hardware business.
> 
>  In a letter sent out to customers and vendors, their owner said the 
> transition to strictly soft goods was going great but that the timing of the 
> pandemic didn’t allow them to generate sufficient income to pay for inventory 
> purchased in the fall and keep the business afloat.  Just goes to show you 
> how fragile the rec marine market can be.  Seems like every economic downturn 
> claims a few good boat builders and businesses.  So don’t buy marine products 
> at Amazon if you want your local chandleries to stay in business.
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest 
> 
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

An observation: For the hardware re-bedding I used new stainless steel hardware 
for everything except some of the larger and fewer number of bolts, i.e., 
primary and secondary winches and the bow stem head fitting. Since they were 
encapsulated with old butyl I simply immersed them in a container of mineral 
spirits. This pretty much dissolved all traces of the butyl. A quick flick with 
a small wire brush and they were like new.

That said, there is the containment/time factor involved so probably not a very 
suitable method for what you encountered.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 11:55 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> FYI, the butyl under my deck fills that I just removed was thin, hard as a 
> rock, and embedded into the non-skid.  I tried removing with acetone, but 
> progress was very slow.  I then used a pick to scrape the butyl out of the 
> non-skid nooks and crannies, which worked but is tedious.  I finished with a 
> little acetone and one of those small wire brushes that look like a big 
> toothbrush.  Good as new.
>  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Autopilot for 36

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Not sure of the magnitude of differences between the earlier 36’ versus the 37’ 
but I installed a Raymarine linear drive on my 1982 C 37. FWIW.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 11:37 AM, Kurt Hoehne via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Does anybody with a C 36 have experience installing a below-deck autopilot? 
> 
> -- 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Dennis, that made me laugh. In a good way of course. ;-)

There probably isn’t a section of deck on my boat that doesn’t flex. I’ll send 
you a recent picture of me using a hydraulic jack to raise the deck by the 
galley sink and the nav station so that I could re-install the two S.S. poles 
that tie the deck to internal cabinetry. And don’t get me started on the three 
T-shaped tangs for the forward cabin and main bulkheads.

I could on about the fact that the v-berth door hasn’t closed in 25 years...

Cheers!
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 8:45 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My philosophy is if there's a chance the deck hardware may flex, use butyl.  
> If not use LifeSeal.  For instance, I bedded Touche's chain plates with 
> butyl.  The winches got LifeSeal.
> 
> Bed-It butyl is the best.
> 
> I quit using 4200 years ago after getting several partially cured tubes.  I 
> much prefer LifeSeal.
> 
> For general reference on sealant usage, look at this chart:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12WmFxRiqzUw2xiqLaEtfBpS1pYocZID- 
> 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

This is for Bailey White’s question about removing excess butyl under the 
hardware. I use this Smart Caulk tool found on Amazon 
 
(of course…). Use the black handle caulk remove by slipping the hooked end into 
the caulk and working it around. Here’s the best part. As you start removing 
the butyl, let it form a ball and use that ball to “dab” the little bits and 
pieces that may remain. Those will adhere to the ball and you will not see any 
evidence of caulk.

And I second Bruce Whitmore’s suggestion. I only use Bed-It Butyl Tape which I 
source from this guy (who keeps changing the name of his site…), “How To 
Marine.”  Link .  Read his butyl tape posts and 
you’ll be convinced.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 8:02 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I will back what Dave Goodwin and others have said, and make two more 
> observations.  1)  Go with Bed-It Buytl Tape, as it seems to have the same 
> properties as the original C material, and I find it goes on much quicker 
> than stuff in a tube.  Not only that, it doesn't dry out, so that roll will 
> last you a long time unless you have major projects ahead of you. 
> 
> I am 100% sold on butyl.
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C 37/40+
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Butyl tape

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

As a requirement for repairing and repainting the deck and cabin top I have 
pulled every piece of hardware on my 1982 C 37 with the exception of the 
toe-rail. Virtually every item was installed with butyl. When we bought the 
boat many years ago I would add hardware or replace hardware like any obsessive 
boat owner would do and I would use sealants from 3M, Boatlife and Sika. 

Every item sealed with butyl was dry and leak-free. Those items that I 
installed with the other products eventually failed and/or leaked. Given my 
general ineptitude those failures were probably my fault. But...

With the fact that the deck had almost no wet core, it was an easy decision to 
re-bed with the same material. I have re-bedded all of the hardware with butyl 
except where the manufacturer recommends a specific sealant, the plastic 
Beckson opening ports coming to mind.

One thing that continually runs through my mind as I go about the process of 
re-bedding using butyl is the incredible amount of effort and time required to 
apply it. Were I a boat builder looking to keep labour costs down, I would 
probably be using tube sealants.

My $0.02 (US).

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 22, 2020, at 6:12 AM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am repainting the deck and the rebedding the hardware. The original 
> hardware (gel coat under it) used butyl tape and in most places had not 
> failed. The parts also come up easily when you want to pull them off. The 
> ones using 4200 or equivalent have failed, often around the screws, it is 
> brittle, yet they don’t always come off easily unless completely failed 
> (cutting under the part is often needed). I will be using butyl when I put it 
> back together. 
> Nathan
> S/V Wisper
> Lynn MA
> 
> - -
>> On May 22, 2020, at 5:52 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> C (or a previous owner) used butyl everywhere on my boat, and while it had 
>> failed in a few spots I'd add that the 4200 I used on a hatch failed after 2 
>> years, so both can fail...  The hatch is on with butyl now, for 6 years, no 
>> problem.
>> 
>> Graham Collins
>> Secret Plans
>> C 35-III #11
>> On 2020-05-22 12:45 a.m., cscheaffer via CnC-List wrote:
>>> I'm rebedding deck hardware and bought Butyl Tape but I'm not convinced 
>>> this is best for me.  Butyl has a cult following but it was not chosen by 
>>> C during the build except for the hull deck joint.  I like 3M 4200 and 
>>> 4000uv.  Anybody have opinions on Butyl being better?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Portlight Windows

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’ll echo David Risch’s comment; very easy to do. I’ve done it twice. The VHB 
tape method is a game changer.

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 14, 2020, at 7:34 AM, TAGraphics via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I read the article on PORTLIGHT REPLACEMENT  in the DIY project section and 
> was wondering if anyone else attempted to replace these frameless recessed 
> windows? Materials used?  Sources? Methods?
> Thanks
>  
> Tom Alessi
> ANDIAMO
> 1980 36' C
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hasps

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

You may wish to look at Mizugiwa (faux Japanese name…) brand hasps and hinges. 
I’m adding them to all my non-hasp locker lids. They are solid 316 S.S. 
material. That said, they are made in China. Take that as you will. Anyway, 
they appear to be solid and the finish quality is pretty high. Replacement 
patterning for Perko I wouldn’t know.

I’ve had Perko brand items in the past on other boats and I much prefer to 
avoid them for reasons others have stated.

Here’s a link 
.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 8, 2020, at 5:11 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have replaced Perko with Perko.
> Interestingly, a  LOT of their items are still available, and identical to 
> what they made 50 years ago. (read, not much better)  Also Interestingly, I 
> discovered lots of their stuff was chrome plated zinc! 
>  
> I think maybe they started out making hardware for cheap outboard boats.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of David Risch via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, May 08, 2020 10:48 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: David Risch
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hasps
>  
> Ugh...trying to avoid drilling new holes...
> 
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 
>  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project (now ramblings about Ronin...)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Well, I’ve been a bit of a slacker recently. I haven’t been over to work on 
Ronin since last December. My wife and I tend to travel to warmer climes in the 
winter. Spain, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic (medical mission work…), Florida 
and that sort of thing. Right now I am working on my 1988 Mako 261 center 
console so that we’ll have some sort of ability to get out on the water this 
summer. I have a locally built wooden 16’ Butler deadrise skiff that has taken 
up some time maintaining. Wooden ("Wouldn’t boat”). Our dock was upgraded last 
November and I am now re-wiring and re-plumbing it. Motorcycle trips. Azores to 
Portsmouth deliver last May with time in England. Blah, blah, blah…

I suppose the good news is that the “hobby” is in put-back-together mode. No 
more destruction and reconstruction. I have a lot of things in my shed that are 
completed and ready to be put back into and onto the boat. Deck hardware is 90% 
installed. Everything has been bedded with butyl. Which is time consuming to 
say the least. It may come out of the shed this summer to put the keel back on. 
Fingers crossed.

I’m going to assemble some random photos and put them out on a Shared Album 
Apple Photos folder. I’ll send you and email for access. Let me know if you 
don’t get an email.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 7, 2020, at 6:48 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey Dave
>  
> Are there any recent updates on your progress?
>  
> The work to date has been outstanding
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

“ I like to work on the boat almost as much as I enjoy sailing. “

C’mon down to the Lower 48 and help me jump-start my project hobby… ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


> On May 7, 2020, at 11:21 AM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Mike, thanks for the info and the link.  I’m now becoming very excited about 
> the work for some reason...I like to work on the boat almost as much as I 
> enjoy sailing. 
> 
> James Bibb
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> James Bibb
> NorthWind Architects LLC
> 126 Seward St. Street
> Juneau, Alaska. 99801
> 
> (907) 321-4265 cell
> (907) 586-6150 ext 5 wk 
> 
>> On May 7, 2020, at 5:04 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> While we are talking about deck core replacement I thought I would post a 
>> link to the project where we did this on Nut Case our former J/27 in 2008.  
>> Note that the J Boats of that era tended to not have hardware well sealed 
>> when manufactured resulting in many areas of wet core.
>>  
>> http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm 
>> 
>>  
>> When we spoke to the broker prior to purchasing the J27 he suggested that we 
>> “sail it as is until something major breaks and then cut it up with a 
>> chainsaw”.  The wet core had reduced the original asking price of 19,500 USD 
>> to our purchase price of 7000 USD.  We ended up replacing the core in 14 
>> different sections of the deck and cockpit.  The hull was basically dry and 
>> it was a great boat and a lot of fun. 
>>  
>> The link to the boat and its full list of projects can be found here if 
>> anyone is interested. http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Index.html 
>>   Projects included garboard 
>> drain, cabin sole replacement, building a custom trailer, re-bedding 
>> (properly) everything, a complete bottom job and other various tasks.
>>  
>> The core areas were replaced by cutting off the top skin and discarding.  
>> Others have had great success with removing the top skin and saving for 
>> re-use.  Balsa coring was used since it is cheap, easily transported and 
>> obtained and now well sealed.  The decks were strong and very solid after 
>> the repairs.
>>  
>> Hope this is of some use to somebody.
>>  
>> Mike
>>  
>> From: CnC-List > > On Behalf Of James Hesketh via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: May 7, 2020 9:45 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: James Hesketh mailto:jameshesk...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List 34-36R Deck Repair Project
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  Ron wrote:
>> What kind of tape do you use to keep the holes dry, especially for a genoa 
>> track? I need to pull the leaking tracks and attend to a soft spot where one 
>> boards at midship.
>>  
>> I'm using 2" blue painters tape -- it's not waterproof, but it works in 
>> areas where the water doesn't pool on top of it. Usually put down two or 
>> three layers and change it every week or so here in Miami because of UV 
>> exposure. In areas where water pools, I've taped down plastic with the 5 or 
>> 6 layers of painters tape and it "mostly" works.
>>  
>> Jim Hesketh
>> C 26 Whisper
>> Miami, FL
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fwd: C 37 For Sale

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Mike,

Ah yes. My wife sports a new bionic hip.

I was going over your blog posts and noted that you anchored out a few creeks 
away from our dock on your Spring return trip last May. Would have been fun to 
run over and see your boat and say Hello.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jan 4, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave
> 
> With aging knees and hips it’s getting difficult for the Admiral and me to 
> enjoy sailing.
> 
> Mike
> 
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C Crusader 40

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hmmm, yes, context would help Joe.

No. Horta, Azores to Portsmouth, UK. After putting up with the unpleasantness 
of the final five days we pulled into Falmouth to rest and clear Customs. First 
leg was 1,342 NM and second leg to Portsmouth was another 160.

On an Oyster 495. Solid. And dry… :-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Dec 9, 2019, at 2:21 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You sailed from Reedville to England in 10 days or did I read that wrong?
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina
>  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Japanese hand saw

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Much agreed. I have owned several. Fortunately the blades can be replaced in 
the handles because I get carried away on the PUSH stroke sometimes.

And about the only thing I bought when went to school in Japan was a lot of 
beer and a motorcycle….  ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Dec 9, 2019, at 1:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Seeing the reference to the Japanese hand saw for the centerboard 
> issue
> 
> I have had a Japanese hand saw for decades.  Awesome tool.  I bought it when 
> I lived in Japan.
> 
> For those who aren't familiar with them, the teeth face opposite of 
> European/American hand saws.  It cuts when you PULL it.  I use it more than 
> my traditional "push" saw.  Takes a bit of getting used to but once you do, 
> you'll love it.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Crusader 40

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Richard,

Indeed. And it pleased my wife that I got rid of some “junk."

As regards rarely sailing with the board down, I spent ten days last May, 
bashing our way to Portsmouth, England, of which the last five were 24 hours a 
day of 35+ knots on the nose. No need for close-hauled, board down windward 
work necessary.  ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Dec 9, 2019, at 11:35 AM, Richard Bush  wrote:
> 
> Dave, that counts as your "good deed for the day"!   Fro what its worth, I 
> rarely ever use my board in a down position, maybe once in 5 years...; of 
> course, I'm not crossing oceans either...
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Crusader 40

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Dave,

Both were done yesterday. Broke the handle on his jack when applying pressure. 
More to follow I think.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Dec 9, 2019, at 11:18 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Slide a hacksaw between board and trunk?
> 
> Drill and tap board for a large machine screw or threaded rod to apply 
> downward pressure?
> 
> Dave
> 33-2
> 
> 
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Crusader 40

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

David,

That was discussed. The new owners are a young couple, in the Navy. Neither 
have a lot of sailing experience or finances. Shoe-string budget but big plans 
to sail away.

I think that they will be fine should it remain in the “up” position.

As an aside, I gave them all the old hardware, blocks, rope clutches, deck 
organizers, foot and cheek blocks and three Barient winches from my boat. I was 
tired of moving them around my shed looking for lost tools. Went to a good 
cause I think…

Regards,
Dave

> On Dec 9, 2019, at 11:10 AM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If you listen to some “centerboarders” on here….some would say leave it 
> seized!   Apparently performance gain not enough to justify cost and 
> maintenance hassle.  
>  
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
>  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C Crusader 40

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I was wondering if there are any Crusader 40 owners on or lurking on this list. 
I ask because there’s one that has pitched up in the yard that I’m in and is 
undergoing a fair bit of (new) owner repair and cleaning. The boat has a seized 
centerboard. The owner was wondering what he might be up against. Advice and/or 
recommendations would be helpful I suspect.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List delrin washer

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Was just getting ready to suggest the same. I’ve had several made up by them 
over the years.

Link 

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Nov 20, 2019, at 9:14 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Maritime Plastics in Annapolis. 
> 
> On Wed, Nov 20, 2019 at 9:00 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Any suggestions of source(s) for delrin washer   3 ½ OD, 1 5/8 ID, 1/8 thk.  
> Google is no help
> 
>  
> 
> TIA
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> John and Maryann
> 
> Legacy III
> 
> 1982 C 34
> 
> Noank, CT
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List FW: Fwd: Fwd: Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Mike,

That. Is. One. Beautiful. Cabin sole.

Well worth the effort I’d say. I’m going to look into that 1/2 router edge that 
you made. My early version of the 37’ doesn’t have the nice liner edges that 
yours does but it may be an important technique. My model simply drops in, 
butts up to the joiner work and is finished teak 1/4-round moulding.

Questions: what is the substrate that you used? Did you screw the panels in 
like was done on my model? It’s a design “feature” that I have not been wild 
about and am thinking about some other fastening system when I put my cabin 
sole back in.

Having been exposed to new boats with flooring systems like yours I have to 
think that it will hold up better that the original teak and holly 3/4” ply.

Well done.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:16 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bruce, Rod, Et Al
>  
> Here is a link to some pictures of my Lonseal cabin sole install.  Cabin Sole 
> 
>  
> Sorry Rod I down race so I can’t answer your questions.  My opinion; the 
> product itself is a superior vinyl product and with proper installation there 
> should be no issue.  That being said if you drop something the Lonseal will 
> hold up well but the substrate may dent and be visible.
>  
> Some tips
> Design substrate (plywood) with as few seams as possible.
> Router bottom outsides edges with ½” router
> Apply a minimum of 2 coats of epoxy to all pieces on all sides
> Roll out the Lonseal  on a solid flat surface (living room floor) upside down 
> then lay plywood upside down in the pattern it will be applied.  Cut Lonseal 
> at least 1” larger than required on all side.  Makes it easier to install and 
> easier to trim after glue is set.
> Tape joints like you would with drywall.  I didn’t.
> Use j-roller instead of recommended 100 lb. roller.  See mod I made to 
> j-roller so I could apply more weight
> Follow gluing instructions to the letter especially the off gassing.  I 
> didn’t and some bubbles occurred that couldn’t be rolled out.
> Use router with edge trimmer to cut bilge ports.
>  
> I was lucky that my sole was a bit narrower than the LonSeal.  Just ensure 
> the pieces in the v-berth and the small piece in the galley lines all line 
> up.  Same thing for the bilge access ports.  I had to make a small lengthwise 
> cut around the mast truck to fit around the centreboard tube.  It can’t be 
> seen unless you really look for it.
>  
> Mike
>  

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III for sale

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Raced in Annapolis quite a bit. I believe it lived on Spa Creek at the AYC 
annex. Six degrees of separation: I sold my old gas-powered air-compressor to 
the guy who painted it…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Nov 14, 2019, at 1:44 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://annapolis.craigslist.org/boa/d/annapolis-cc-mark-iii/7019881360.html 
> 
> No knowledge except seeing it on CL
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Thickness of acrylic cabin windows on LF38?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Like Alan, I used 9mm smoke acrylic. Set in with 3M black VHB. Finished off 
with a high quality black silicone. Don’t fret the application pressure thing; 
once set in place the ports are not moving. Gentle strong pressure for a minute 
or so all that is needed. 

Second time I’ve replaced them, last time using sealant. Never do that again. 

Have photos of process if desired. 

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 10, 2019, at 11:01 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I used 9mm cast acrylic, applying it with Plexus. Don't use extruded, as it's 
> weaker. Lexan is stronger than acrylic, but it scratches more easily.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 10, 2019 at 7:38 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I'm getting ready to do the windows project and have read the prior threads 
>> about it (plus the helpful Boatworks youtube video).
>> 
>> When others did this project, on Landfall 38 or similar sized C's, did you 
>> use 3/8" thickness or 1/4" on the new windows? 
>> 
>> My existing windows are 3/8", thrubolted with black sealant. The sealant 
>> squeezed out to the edges due to the thrubolting, so the windows are very 
>> much flush with the inner fiberglass. I'm wondering when I switch to VHB, 
>> will the tape thickness (0.045 in / 1.1mm) cause the windows to protrude 
>> noticeably? 
>> 
>> Paul on SV Johanna Rose (LF38) says on his blog that he used 1/4" thickness 
>> (Lexan/polycarbonate, which I am not doing).
>> 
>> Another thought is if others used 1/4" acrylic, will I be able to flex 3/8" 
>> acrylic enough to fit the contour of the hull? 3/8" is pretty stiff. I've 
>> read about the different methods people used to hold the windows in place 
>> until the VHB cures and am thinking of using the weighted plank method 
>> (place wood boards at an angle to the exterior and put weights on them to 
>> apply pressure) plus just manually holding in place for the first 10-15 min.
>> 
>> -Patrick
>> 1984 C LF38
>> Seattle, WA
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=pV1Lr2OtUwFQuIz-_mY-UxEztI0G1lIEkTXWsWFQiII=Zua4MR4wXKsjhYi-eA-cwNzZFAK-_6ml2WfnxK8Ud_c=
>>  
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Bruce,

I used Awlgrip’s Awlwood MA Gloss and Primer on the teak and holly surface. 
Finished off with a regular satin finish varnish. I used West System epoxy to 
seal the rest of the surfaces.

http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-03-16T14:37:00-07:00=7=13=false

Regards,
Dave
 
Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 9, 2019, at 08:53, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.  
> What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood?  What 
> varnish did you use?  Did you seal the underside with epoxy?  If so, what 
> kind?
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C 37/40+
> "Astralis"
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’ve done my cabin sole twice since buying the boat in 1997. I thought about 
using a non-wood covering product on this last iteration. When I started to 
price out the cost of okume marine plywood plus the cost of the covering there 
were now real savings to be had compared to buying two sheets of 3/4 teak and 
holly plywood.

I suppose an argument can be made about not having to spend a great deal of 
time finishing the flooring when using a new applied material.

If you are going to use the existing flooring probably a good idea to make sure 
that it is not delaminating. Mine was.

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37 - Ronin 

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 9, 2019, at 08:37, Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> But expensive!?!   I did mine as well and the 4x8 sheet was over $700.  Looks 
> great now though.
> 
> Neil
> 1982 C 32, FoxFire
> Rock Hall, MD
> 
> Neil Andersen
> 20691 Jamieson Rd
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Stephen Thorne 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2019 8:34 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Stephen Thorne
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing
>  
> I had the same project on my 34+ and after looking at various options ended 
> up ordering a new sheet of teak & holly plywood.  Was a little more effort 
> but I wanted to stay with the wood sole.  Love the end results.
> 
> Steve Thorne
> Deja Vu
> 1990 34+
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 8:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape.  There are areas where the 
>> holly stripes and are gone or pulling away.   I am considering what to do 
>> and have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux teak/holley 
>> covering over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that discussion 
>> anywhere in the archives.  Has anyone done that?  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Latest / last season sail

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

John,

Afraid I’m at 3,500 ASL in SW North Carolina. I did get a nice slice of pizza 
at Whole Foods in Durham though. :-)

Regards.
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 8, 2019, at 12:29 AM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave, is that North Carolina? Come on by and see you sister 37!
> Nd see 
> 
> John Conklin
> S/V Halcyon
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
> 
> 
>> On Nov 6, 2019, at 9:57 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Tom,
>> 
>> I’m normally one of the oyster “cookers” for that event but am currently on 
>> my way to N. C. n
>> north Carolina 
>> Our house is four doors away from the museum. My dock is under 
>> re-construction at the moment but will be done on Thursday. Feel free to use 
>> it if you wish. 
>> 
>> Contact me off-list for details. 
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Nov 6, 2019, at 7:21 AM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hello all -
>>> 
>>> I don’t post much (at all!) but enjoy reading about the C  
>>> 
>>> Thought I’d check if anyone is going to the Reedville, VA / mid-Chesapeake 
>>> Oyster Roast this Sat.  I’m sailing Therapy there, with a fellow vet, from 
>>> the Solomons on FRI. 
>>> 
>>> Also curious if anyone sails thru the ‘winter’ here on the Bay….I’m 
>>> originally from Buffalo - winters here are more like an extended fall !  ;)
>>> 
>>> At least I will have Wind!
>>> 
>>> Cheers -
>>> 
>>> Tom 
>>> “Therapy”
>>> ’84 C 29 MKII
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Latest / last season sail

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

I’m normally one of the oyster “cookers” for that event but am currently on my 
way to N. C. 

Our house is four doors away from the museum. My dock is under re-construction 
at the moment but will be done on Thursday. Feel free to use it if you wish. 

Contact me off-list for details. 

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 6, 2019, at 7:21 AM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all -
> 
> I don’t post much (at all!) but enjoy reading about the C  
> 
> Thought I’d check if anyone is going to the Reedville, VA / mid-Chesapeake 
> Oyster Roast this Sat.  I’m sailing Therapy there, with a fellow vet, from 
> the Solomons on FRI. 
> 
> Also curious if anyone sails thru the ‘winter’ here on the Bay….I’m 
> originally from Buffalo - winters here are more like an extended fall !  ;)
> 
> At least I will have Wind!
> 
> Cheers -
> 
> Tom 
> “Therapy”
> ’84 C 29 MKII
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Don’t know what type of a toe-rail that a 26’ has but FWIW, I am currently 
re-bedding all of my deck hardware with the exception of the toe-rail. I am 
using butyl tape for all applications except where silicone based sealant is 
called for, i.e., the Beckson opening ports in the main cabin. My opinion about 
the use of butyl by C is that it was a smart move. When I was pulling all the 
deck hardware, wherever butyl was used the core was dry and clean. No leaks. 
Wherever I had added new hardware and used a 3M or Sikaflex product, there was 
ultimately leakage. Now, much of that may have been due to my less than perfect 
application techniques.

On the 37’ the aluminum toe-rail is bedded with butyl.

Hope that helps.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Nov 5, 2019, at 7:52 AM, James Hesketh via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will also 
> do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can tie 
> off the headsail halyard to it.  
> 
> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin? 
> 
> TIA
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C 26
> Miami, FL
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Affectionately used term in our household, hon. ;-)

> On Nov 1, 2019, at 9:40 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Did he just call his wife a Balti-Moron? 
> 
> 
>> On Nov 1, 2019, at 6:14 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
> 
> Baltimore sounds good. My wife is a Baltimoron so we’re familiar with the 
> venue. Why, I’d even attend. If my boat was in the water. Which at my rate of 
> rebuild progress it might just, sort of, maybe, hopefully, be ready. ;-)
> 
> Nonetheless, my dock is being rebuilt right at the moment and will have a 
> couple of C slips available for anyone transiting North on the 
> Chesapeake Bay should an overnight stay be required. Two day jump to Charm 
> City from here.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave
> Ronin - 1982 C 37
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Nov 1, 2019, at 13:29, Dennis C. via CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Josh,
>> 
>> I hadn't heard anything about a NE rendezvous either.  Hence my pitch to 
>> piggyback them.  I'm glad you jumped out there and firmed up dates for the 
>> Mid-Atlantic one.  One bookend is set.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Fri, Nov 1, 2019 at 12:21 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Dennis,
>> 
>> With Edd moving to Florida I'm unaware of anybody having organized the 2019 
>> N.E. Rendezvous and I have heard no mention of a 2020.  Had I heard of one, 
>> I would have certainly taken it into consideration when choosing a date.  
>> That being said, I apologize to the appropriate party if the last weekend in 
>> September interferes with the NE Rendezvous.
>> 
>> 
>> All the best, 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S /V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Fri, Nov 1, 2019, 12:09 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I like it.  Perhaps the Northeast Rendezvous could be the weekend before or 
>> after?  If so, the Admiral and I would be tempted to attend both with a week 
>> of land touring in between.  
>> 
>> Baltimore is a good location.  The Admiral and I spent a couple nights at 
>> the Inner Harbor after last year's rendezvous.  Touring the old ships was 
>> pretty cool.
>> 
>> I just wish there were enough listers on the northern Gulf Coast for a 
>> rendezvous here.  
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 5:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I'm pretty sure that that is sufficient for a final established date and 
>> location.  I'm making the call.
>> 
>> THERE IT IS FOLKS!  THE OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE 2020 MID-ATLANTIC C 
>> RENDEZVOUS!  TO BE HELD ON THE LAST WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER (25, 26, 27) IN 
>> BALTIMORE MARYLAND AT ANCHORAGE MARINA!
>> 
>> 
>> More to follow, 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 2020 Rendezvous (s)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Baltimore sounds good. My wife is a Baltimoron so we’re familiar with the 
venue. Why, I’d even attend. If my boat was in the water. Which at my rate of 
rebuild progress it might just, sort of, maybe, hopefully, be ready. ;-)

Nonetheless, my dock is being rebuilt right at the moment and will have a 
couple of C slips available for anyone transiting North on the 
Chesapeake Bay should an overnight stay be required. Two day jump to Charm City 
from here.

Regards,
Dave
Ronin - 1982 C 37




Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 1, 2019, at 13:29, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Josh,
> 
> I hadn't heard anything about a NE rendezvous either.  Hence my pitch to 
> piggyback them.  I'm glad you jumped out there and firmed up dates for the 
> Mid-Atlantic one.  One bookend is set.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
>> On Fri, Nov 1, 2019 at 12:21 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Dennis,
>> 
>> With Edd moving to Florida I'm unaware of anybody having organized the 2019 
>> N.E. Rendezvous and I have heard no mention of a 2020.  Had I heard of one, 
>> I would have certainly taken it into consideration when choosing a date.  
>> That being said, I apologize to the appropriate party if the last weekend in 
>> September interferes with the NE Rendezvous.
>> 
>> 
>> All the best, 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> S /V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Nov 1, 2019, 12:09 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I like it.  Perhaps the Northeast Rendezvous could be the weekend before or 
>>> after?  If so, the Admiral and I would be tempted to attend both with a 
>>> week of land touring in between.  
>>> 
>>> Baltimore is a good location.  The Admiral and I spent a couple nights at 
>>> the Inner Harbor after last year's rendezvous.  Touring the old ships was 
>>> pretty cool.
>>> 
>>> I just wish there were enough listers on the northern Gulf Coast for a 
>>> rendezvous here.  
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
 On Thu, Oct 31, 2019 at 5:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 I'm pretty sure that that is sufficient for a final established date and 
 location.  I'm making the call.
 
 THERE IT IS FOLKS!  THE OFFICIAL ANNOUNCEMENT OF THE 2020 MID-ATLANTIC C 
 RENDEZVOUS!  TO BE HELD ON THE LAST WEEKEND OF SEPTEMBER (25, 26, 27) IN 
 BALTIMORE MARYLAND AT ANCHORAGE MARINA!
 
 
 More to follow, 
 
 Josh Muckley 
> 
 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Dave Godwin and Carol Buchman / Ronin / C 37 / 1982 / 83448 / 
dave.god...@me.com / Reedville, VA

> On 10/3/2019 4:52 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
>  
> 
> In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin 
> board / photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that will 
> act as a supplement and perhaps one day, only when Stu says he’s no longer 
> interested in continuing on, act as a replacement to the service we are using 
> now.
> 
>  
> 
> I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a moment, 
> please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct email to 
> me) with the following information:
> 
>  
> 
> Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address / Home 
> Port
> 
>  
> 
> For example:
> 
> Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B / 
> e...@schillay.com  / Venice Island, FL
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks to all. 
> 
>  
> 
> And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter haul-out 
> and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"
> 
>  
> 
> All the best,
> 
>  
> 
> Edd
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> 
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> 
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> 
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL 
> 
>  
> 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
>  
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
>  
>  
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Removing very old sealant

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Mineral spirits works well. Will dissolve old residue and new butyl tape. 

Regards,
Dave
198 2C 37

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 5, 2019, at 9:30 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I seem to remember someone saying that kerosene or diesel fuel was effective 
> but with that said I'm surprised that mineral spirits did not do the trick.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Sep 5, 2019, 9:06 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Listers:
>>  
>> I recently removed two old stainless deck mounts for a reaching strut.  
>> Given the style of the deck mounts, I believe they were  original to the 
>> boat (1976).  Remarkably, no evidence of leaks in all that time.  The 
>> sealant that was used appears to be the same grey butyl material that was 
>> used for the deck-to-hull joint, except it is no longer flexible.  In 
>> addition, it is worked into the non-skid and difficult to remove.  I tried 
>> getting it off with acetone (which helped), but I’m concerned that the 
>> amount needed to work effectively may damage the gel coat.  I also tried 
>> mineral spirits and Goo Gone, but neither seemed to help.  I can scratch it 
>> off with a pick, but this method is  very time-consuming.
>>  
>> Any suggestions for a solvent that might work without damaging the deck?
>>  
>> Matthew L. Wolford 
>> 638 West Sixth Street 
>> Erie, PA 16507 
>> (814) 459-9600 (Office) 
>> (814) 459-9661 (Fax) 
>> (814) 392-5599 (Cell) 
>> 
>> The information contained in this e-mail note and any attachments is 
>> intended for the personal and confidential use of the designated 
>> recipient(s). This communication may be an attorney-client communication, 
>> attorney work product, or otherwise privileged, confidential, or protected 
>> from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient 
>> or an authorized agent, you are hereby  notified that you have received this 
>> communication in error, and that any review, dissemination, distribution, 
>> copying of, use of, or reliance upon this communication is prohibited. If 
>> you believe this communication was sent to you in error, do not read it. 
>> Please reply to the sender that you received the note in error and delete 
>> it. Thank you.
>> 
>> Please consider the environment before printing this note.
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Straightening Stanchions...

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

David,

As regards Chuck’s reference to salt-fused, I can attest to the problems I ran 
across. All of my stanchions were virtually welded to the cast aluminum bases. 
I tried solvents and heat from a cutting torch to no avail. Broke one base in 
the process. I resorted to hack-sawing the tubes out. 

I purchased all new tubes from Garhauer for $33.00 per tube plus shipping. And 
a new cast base from South Shore.

Regards from Gosport, England.

Dave
C 37 - Ronin

Sent from my iPad

> On May 21, 2019, at 17:14, Chuck Borge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> David,
> I have some stanchions that did not break or bend in our incident last 
> winter. You are welcome to whatever is still good. I replaced all the 
> stanchions and bases.
> One thing, though, is that they are pretty “salt-fused” in the sockets. I can 
> check when I get home for exactly what I have intact. 
> Best,
> Chuck B
> C Tenacious
> Somerset, MA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List painting strategy for deck Interlux vs Pettit

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Chuck,

I’d always recommend spraying paint as opposed to rolling-and-tip but your 
reasons for doing the latter are quite sound. So, no recommendation to lightly 
sand, cover, tape and spray.

I do have a strong opinion about the non-skid which you probably don’t really 
care about. I don’t care for Kiwi-Grip for the same reasons that Mike alluded 
to, primarily aggressiveness. There are other types of grip, one that uses 
little rubbery pellets and so forth. I’ve researched them a bit.

After doing my decks, I would not use anything other that AwlGrip’s Grip Tex. 
When completed it matched the original C non-skid to within 97%. Looks and 
feels like factory. At least I think so ‘cause my decks were “skid” rather than 
“n on-skid" when we bought the boat… ;-)

Very simple to apply.

1.  Lightly sand off what's left of the original non-skid, clean and tape 
nearby gloss.
2.  Prep surface per your paint’s instructions (don’t need an 
AwlCraft/AwlGrip product)) with a small foam roller.
3.  Have a mixture of 50/50 Grip Tex coarse grit and fine grit in a plastic 
container (I used one of those clear plastic olive containers with a lid that 
you find at Whole Food or Wegmans) with some holes punched in the top.
4.  “Salt” the freshly painted surface. Don’t worry about making it 100% 
even in distribution on the first pass. Just let it fly.
5.  Come back after 20-30 minutes and roll another coat of paint over the 
area to lock in the Grip Tex.
6.  Repeat Step 4. for areas that might be a bit thin. You’ll be able to 
tell easily.
7.  Repeat Step 5.

That’s it. When done it will appear even, not look or feel aggressive and it 
will be quite non-kiddy…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On May 1, 2019, at 1:53 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning paint my boat's deck in stages, roll and tip.  I've chosen Kiwi 
> Grip for the non-skid.  Ten years ago I tried a two part primer and Interlux 
> Perfection and painted the transom only.  I picked a day with too much heat 
> and the sun hit the transom each afternoon so I had to grind/sand that off 
> and recoat.  I ended up using Brightside and it looked very professional but 
> is now showing some problems after ten years.  
> 
> 
> 
> I just tried Pettit EZpoxy for the first time on a helm seat.  Same price as 
> Interlux but flows out better and easier.  The paint went on easy and looks 
> great.  The primer, EZ Prime, stinks more than the finish coat, EZ Poxy but 
> the smell goes away once the paint dries.  Nothing stinks as much as Bilge 
> Coat which I find smells for days so I'd like to avoid Brightside which is a 
> close cousin.
> 
> 
> 
> Two part paints are supposed to last longer but they cost more and I want to 
> avoid all the carcinigens and eternal mixing of two part primer, two part 
> finish coat, two part flattener. 
> 
> 
> 
> Any opinions out there, Pettit vs Interlux or some other system?   
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck S, Resolute 1990 C 34R
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Fwd: Beta Marine 20hp

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Joe, per your last list post, I have no further details other than this posting 
from last Friday.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: Dave Godwin 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Beta Marine 20hp
> Date: April 26, 2019 at 7:36:20 PM EDT
> To: C List 
> 
> Mark and Kevin,
> 
> Thanks for reminding me.
> 
> Okay, a cursory take which is all that I was able to do. It may allegedly 
> have very few hours on it but it’s 15-years old. The story is that the 
> gentleman had it installed his sailboat but fell fatally ill and gave the 
> boat to the yard owner. The yard owner removed to engine which was apparently 
> the only thing of value. 
> 
> It’s a Beta Marine type BD722, Engine number 2L5161, Woc(?) K11036, Output 
> 20BHP @ 3600 RPM. Fresh-water cooled. Date of manufacture unknown to me.
> 
> It has an attached transmission but I was unable to identify it. Eyeball 
> inspection indicates the shaft is in-line with the crank.
> 
> It appears to be in fairly reasonable shape with factory alternator, original 
> belts and engine mounts. Miscellaneous hoses. Some surface rust but nothing 
> out of the ordinary or troubling.
> 
> I did NOT see an instrument panel and failed to ask about one but will do 
> that if there is interest. I did not discuss price.
> 
> A few of photos available on request.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On Apr 26, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Kevin Burke via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> I might be interested.  I am in Virginia.
>> 
>> On 4/25/2019 1:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Listers,
>>> 
>>> I was talking to a friend this morning. He’s out of the marina business and 
>>> is getting rid of a bunch of marine items that he has lying around. I’m 
>>> interested in some teak but he mentioned that he had a virtually new Beta 
>>> Marine 20hp diesel for sale. I don’t have any clear details but I believe I 
>>> heard “around 5 hours on the motor” and “maybe $2,000.00”.
>>> 
>>> I’m going to go look at his stuff tomorrow morning.
>>> 
>>> If someone was interested, I’ll explore that motor in more detail.
>>> 
>>> Regards,
>>> Dave Godwin
>>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>>> 
>> 
>>  
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient_term=icon>
>>  Virus-free. www.avast.com 
>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient_term=link>
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Beta Marine 20hp

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Mark and Kevin,

Thanks for reminding me.

Okay, a cursory take which is all that I was able to do. It may allegedly have 
very few hours on it but it’s 15-years old. The story is that the gentleman had 
it installed his sailboat but fell fatally ill and gave the boat to the yard 
owner. The yard owner removed to engine which was apparently the only thing of 
value. 

It’s a Beta Marine type BD722, Engine number 2L5161, Woc(?) K11036, Output 
20BHP @ 3600 RPM. Fresh-water cooled. Date of manufacture unknown to me.

It has an attached transmission but I was unable to identify it. Eyeball 
inspection indicates the shaft is in-line with the crank.

It appears to be in fairly reasonable shape with factory alternator, original 
belts and engine mounts. Miscellaneous hoses. Some surface rust but nothing out 
of the ordinary or troubling.

I did NOT see an instrument panel and failed to ask about one but will do that 
if there is interest. I did not discuss price.

A few of photos available on request.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

> On Apr 26, 2019, at 7:18 PM, Kevin Burke via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I might be interested.  I am in Virginia.
> 
> On 4/25/2019 1:16 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>> Listers,
>> 
>> I was talking to a friend this morning. He’s out of the marina business and 
>> is getting rid of a bunch of marine items that he has lying around. I’m 
>> interested in some teak but he mentioned that he had a virtually new Beta 
>> Marine 20hp diesel for sale. I don’t have any clear details but I believe I 
>> heard “around 5 hours on the motor” and “maybe $2,000.00”.
>> 
>> I’m going to go look at his stuff tomorrow morning.
>> 
>> If someone was interested, I’ll explore that motor in more detail.
>> 
>> Regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 
>  
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient_term=icon>
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient_term=link>
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Offshore boat

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Be careful what you wish for. Or better, what you actually want in a sailboat.

One of my closest friends and racing buddies owned a Beneteau 40.7 and raced it 
extensively. Some years ago he was caught out short on the delivery back from 
Key West Race Week and I filled in on the leg from Beaufort, N.C. to its home 
in Annapolis.

We left Beaufort in the early AM with conditions of 12-15 directly on the bow 
and 3’ seas out of the South. With the undersized Yanmar saildrive, we were 
lucky to break 4 knots forward motion. Combination of undersized (read: 
lightweight) motor, flat entry (read: pounding) made it very frustrating until 
we could turn NE and pull some sail out.

With the high-aspect fine blade rudder, it took every bit of concentration 
driving it. Stay in the grove or suffer the consequences.

Anyway, with the right conditions it was a very fast but edgy boat. I could 
understand someone wanting one. Even me actually.

Several years later I was slotted to race on it for the Newport - Bermuda Race. 
I passed on going as the delivery crew to Newport. A day later I got a call 
from the owner who tersely told me that we weren’t racing to Bermuda.

The boat sank.

The carbon fiber rudder sawed itself in half, ultimately falling out after 
being taken under tow the Shinnecock Coast Guard Station cutter. Because of the 
construction of the rudder shaft, access by hand was futile and the inflow of 
water could not be kept up with.

Fun times for my buddies…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Apr 26, 2019, at 4:46 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I love the sailing qualities of my C 34/36R, but if I didn't have her, I 
> wouldn't mind owning a well maintained Hunter 35.5 or 37.5. 
> And I wouldn't mind owning a Farr designed Beneteau 36.7 or 40.7 or a Figaro 
> II, all offshore boats.
> 
> FWIW, A wiser gentleman once told me, "every boat is someone's dream", so I 
> am careful not to bash other brands or other dreams.
> 
> 
> Chuck S
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Beta Marine 20hp

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Listers,

I was talking to a friend this morning. He’s out of the marina business and is 
getting rid of a bunch of marine items that he has lying around. I’m interested 
in some teak but he mentioned that he had a virtually new Beta Marine 20hp 
diesel for sale. I don’t have any clear details but I believe I heard “around 5 
hours on the motor” and “maybe $2,000.00”.

I’m going to go look at his stuff tomorrow morning.

If someone was interested, I’ll explore that motor in more detail.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Shawn's delimma

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Shawn, I failed to answer one of your questions. And rather than extend the 
long thread, I’ll post this and then be done.

Your questions was: "What do you think she would sell for today? “

I’m afraid the answer truthfully, is, nothing.

“Ronin" is in bits and pieces and in varying stages of re-assembly. Mast off, 
keel propped up next to it, hardware, cabinetry and parts either on the boat or 
in my shed. If I were to drop dead tonight and my wife had to dispose of it, 
well, that would be difficult if not impossible. There are no buyers for such a 
project/hobby.

I never, ever dwell on the sale price of “Ronin”. When she’s done and back in 
the water we will sail her as much as possible and then sell her for whatever 
someone will pony up. It’s not factor in our boat owning equation. We’ve sailed 
her for years and enjoyed every minute of it.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Shawn,

I did think about the slip costs and that is most certainly an item that can 
add a good bit to the monthly average. We paid for slip fees in Annapolis up 
until 2003 and while fees in A-town are quite expensive, the back-yard marina 
that we kept the boat in is owned by close friends so by local standards, it 
was very, very cheap.

My wife and I purchased a weekend waterfront home in the mid to lower 
Chesapeake Bay in 2002 and moved the boat down in 2003. We have 8 1/2’ MLLW at 
our dock so our 6’8” draft has never gone aground. I consider that to be a 
“deep water slip” which can be pretty spendy in many locales so, yes, I suppose 
that we have ‘free’ slip fees but the reality is that the slip rent is hidden 
in the mortgage. ;-)

All other items that are remotely linked to the boat, i.e., insurance and 
registration are included in the figures. I even include the yearly dues to a 
yacht club in Annapolis that we still belong to.

I’ve done a short sail from San Diego to Ensenada and back (Passport 43) and 
I’m certain that a C would be just fine for a trip like that. Continuing on 
to the Panama Canal and then into the Caribbean, again, quite do-able I think. 
I have a friend who’s 20-something niece and another young woman bought a 
$4,000 25’ old production sailboat and sailed all over the Gulf of California 
and Baja and had a great time. Afterwards, she and some of her sailing buddies 
sailed our friend’s J-120 from San Francisco to Hawaii and then on to New 
Zealand. Just so that they could get a better price selling it...

You can have fun and be safe on a C I should just say that if I were to take 
off, I’d go with something a bit more robust (Passport, Oyster, Swan, Grand 
Soleil, Dehler, X-Yacht, etc.) and that had a bit more carrying capacity. But 
that’s me.

Buy the boat that moves your heart. We love our 37’. Years ago as it sat 
deteriorating at our dock we starting thinking about letting her go and getting 
a cruiser/racer in the 42’ range. We decided against that avenue for reasons 
that folks on this list well know: beauty, speed, construction and comfort.

So to close out, my advice would be to buy as large and as well-maintained a 
boat that you feel you will be able to afford over time. I would also advise 
against doing what I do. I just enjoy fixing up old things. I’ve never been 
called smart. :-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 24, 2019, at 3:05 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Dave. 
> 
> I think there is probably a big difference between going down the Pacific 
> coast to Mexico, and going offshore to Hawaii or the South Pacific, mainly in 
> that the former is limited to 3-5 days offshore between safe ports, vs 20+ 
> days for the latter, meaning weather windows are easier to hit. At this early 
> stage, I really don't know if we'll go offshore, but if things go well, I'd 
> like to go down the coast to Mexico at least, without having to search for 
> another boat. If I already had enough experience, I'd probably just fly to 
> California and find a boat there, then sail it to Mexico, and have the 
> advantage of 10x as many boats to choose from. But I want to sail our local 
> waters first, something I've wanted to do since I was a kid. I grew up around 
> powerboats and fishing boats, and always looking longingly at the sailboats 
> as I endured the drone and smell of the engine...
> 
> Your accounting of your purchase is quite interesting; thanks. Does that 
> include moorage/storage, insurance, etc.? If so, that is very good value. 
> What do you think she would sell for today? If we had done this a few years 
> ago when I was still working, I would just spend the money on a nicer boat, 
> or not worry about fixing it up. But being only a few months into retirement, 
> and with my wife still working but soon to retire also, the uncertainty of 
> our real living expenses going forward are a significant factor. Moorage is 
> at least $4K/year here, unless we can join a club, or put it on a mooring 
> buoy, but winter storms are an issue with a buoy. Lots of spare parts on the 
> beaches this winter from all the boats washed ashore...
> 
> 
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Shawn,

Been watching your rumination on buying that 35-II.

I’ve delivered a C 34 from Fort Lauderdale to Port Royal, Jamaica, no stops. 
It was fine for that but all we had to deal with was constant headwinds for 
days on end.

I’m flying into Ponta Delgada, Azores on May 4 to assist my friend on the final 
leg home to Gosport, England from Antigua. They just spent 48 hours in Force 7 
conditions mid-Atlantic. I would not have wanted to be in my boat in those 
conditions. His boat is an Oyster 485. Big difference.

I consider my boat to be a good coastal cruiser. I’d go to Bermuda with 
(hopefully) a good weather window. IMO, C’s are quite strong but have their 
limits if extended offshore passage making is the desire.

Of course, the French regularly pile entire families on Beneteaus and cross 
oceans just fine.  ;-)

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

P.S.Back to your purchase decision thread. We bought our boat in 1997 as a 
bank repo. The description of the 35-II sounds much better compared to the 
condition of our boat when we purchased it. One thing to consider is the 
average cost to own over time. Despite replacing/rebuilding or adding 1) engine 
rebuild, 2) all wiring, 3) plumbing, 4) cushions, 5) roller furling, 6) sails, 
7) electronics, 8) below deck autopilot, 9) stove, 10) distribution panel, 11) 
windlass, 12) fixed ports (2x), 13) opening ports (2x), 14) cabin sole (2x), 
15) Harken self-tailing deck winches (2x), 16) Harken mainsheet traveler system 
(2x), 17) all new rod and running rigging, well, I’ll stop there. No, wait. 
Completel Awlcraft paint job, hull and topsides. Whew!

But here’s the deal; I keep detailed records as part of my rebuild “hobby” and 
the yearly average costs over time is $7,000.00 U.S. Includes everything with 
the exception of the $25,000 that we paid for it.

I will be interested in your decision. Good luck!

> On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm going to switch things up a bit from the gloomy topic of my current boat 
> purchase: how many of you have taken your C offshore, and if so, which 
> boat, where to, and how did it manage the conditions? If you have not gone 
> offshore, what are the worst conditions you've experienced in a C, and how 
> would the performance of the boat in these conditions make you feel about 
> taking it offshore?
> 
> One of the very first boats we looked at was a Westsail 32 (don't laugh), 
> partly because they are proven world cruisers, and the boat has been from BC 
> to NZ and back. But with our fickle air in the summer here, a good light air 
> boat seems like a better choice, but I also want something that can take a 
> beating without worrying about our safety.
> 
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

“For most older C's the smile is a greatly overblown issue.”

Yup, that statement just makes me smile.  ;-)

Regards,
Dave
“Ronin” - C 37

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 5, 2019, at 16:46, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> The C smile is usually a non-issue.  It is nearly always resolved by 
> torquing the keel bolts and cosmetically repairing the hull/keel crack.  See:
> 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/index.htm
> 
> That's a typical C smile.  It was fixed by torquing the bolts, digging out 
> some crumbly stuff at the crack and epoxying a couple overlapping layers of 
> glass over the crack.  The repair shown was done in 1999.  It has not 
> reappeared.  Here's the same boat in 2018.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=1UzpgYV6IlfmY6YeK2k3-pcE0ZACotjpJ
> 
> Torquing the bolts is much easier than finding the tools to do it.  Most use 
> a torque multiplier.  You may be able to rent what you need.
> 
> The bolts must be individually backed off and then torqued.  Doesn't much 
> matter if the boat is in or out of the water.
> 
> The biggest issue with older C's is if the washers/plates under the keel 
> bolts have not been replaced with stainless plates.  If they are plain steel, 
> they should be replaced with stainless.
> 
> For most older C's the smile is a greatly overblown issue.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 3:05 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Ok, so perhaps a better question to ask - what is the recommended 
>> maintenance (annual re-torque? I see a torque spec listed on the 
>> CNCphotoalbum page but no other details), and if the C smile is found, 
>> does the keel need to be dropped to fix it? This boat will be pushing our 
>> budget a bit, so I want to ensure we're not going to incur a bunch of costs 
>> right away.
>> 
>>> On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 11:59 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>>  
>>> 
>>> There is a way to add keel bolts with the keel in place, but C are not 
>>> known for losing keels in the first place!
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Joe
>>> 
>>> Coquina
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> On Apr 5, 2019, at 11:42 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Hello all,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> After another 4 months of boat searching, I am once again considering the 
>>> 35-2 "Callisto" which began this old thread from January. I have been 
>>> thinking about it, and when I saw it at the dock while looking at another 
>>> boat (Crown 28, yes I am getting desperate...), I realized I had forgotten 
>>> how nice looking the boat is. It still has a for sale sign, and I am 
>>> waiting to hear back from the owner. I think at 34K he was asking far too 
>>> much, but at 20K I could overlook some of the not quite up to my standards 
>>> work done on it. I will get a survey for sure if he gets back to me, and we 
>>> can agree on a price.
>>> 
>>> Since looking at this boat, I started getting interested in Ericsons, and 
>>> really liked the idea of the encapsulated keels on their 70s models. We 
>>> almost bought a 29. But I am realizing that my fear of keel bolts is 
>>> probably unwarranted, and even Ericson went with bolt on keels by the 80s, 
>>> and none of them fell off. I hear people talk about replacing keel bolts, 
>>> but I assume they mean just the nuts, which doesn't seem to make a lot of 
>>> sense, since the crevice corrosion is likely to a problem with the 
>>> bolt/stud. Are the bolts J bolts like concrete anchors, or just threaded 
>>> rod set into lead? I imagine replacing a J bolt would be a huge job. Is 
>>> replacing them ever actually done? Could you just drill, tap, and thread in 
>>> new stainless rod in between the original bolts for extra safety? Or am I 
>>> worrying too much about a mostly non-issue? It's just that most bolt on 
>>> keel boats I've looked at have water in the bilge meaning the bolts/nuts 
>>> will stay wet most of the time (probably mainly rainwater/condensation I 
>>> guess), so it seems like I should be concerned.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> It's interesting also that after a lot of discussion with the Ericson guys 
>>> (also a great group of owners, like this group), one of the features of the 
>>> newer Ericson designs which improves comfort is the flared bow (the 80s 
>>> models), something which the C 35-2 also has. Walking up to this 35-2 a 
>>> few days ago just reminded me why I was so attracted to it originally. Yes, 
>>> there are a few things I would do differently, but it's basically ready to 
>>> sail, as is. 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Shawn,

I have unbolted and set aside my keel and can offer my observations. Our boat, 
a 1982 C 37 came with and we sailed with, for many, many years, the infamous 
"C smile.” Every year when pulling the boat out, the front part of the 
keel/keel stub intersection would weep a bit of sea-water. Not optimal but I 
let it go. Of note, no sea-water was finding its way into the bilge from the 
bolts.

Before dropping the keel I envisioned, well, had nightmares actually, that the 
keel bolts would be wasted to the size of a 1/4” x 20 bolt. I was preparing to 
drag the keel up to Mars Metals in Canada in order to have them replaced. It’s 
been awhile but as I recall the cost per bolt to have them replaced was under 
$200/bolt.

Fortunately, this did not come to pass. Yes, there was some wasting on the 
forward keel bolt but not enough to worry about and certainly not in light of 
the good condition on the remaining bolts. I will bolt the keel back on and not 
worry about it. Why, I might even get around to doing that this year…. ;-)

Link  to 
pictures.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Apr 5, 2019, at 11:42 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> After another 4 months of boat searching, I am once again considering the 
> 35-2 "Callisto" which began this old thread from January. I have been 
> thinking about it, and when I saw it at the dock while looking at another 
> boat (Crown 28, yes I am getting desperate...), I realized I had forgotten 
> how nice looking the boat is. It still has a for sale sign, and I am waiting 
> to hear back from the owner. I think at 34K he was asking far too much, but 
> at 20K I could overlook some of the not quite up to my standards work done on 
> it. I will get a survey for sure if he gets back to me, and we can agree on a 
> price.
> Since looking at this boat, I started getting interested in Ericsons, and 
> really liked the idea of the encapsulated keels on their 70s models. We 
> almost bought a 29. But I am realizing that my fear of keel bolts is probably 
> unwarranted, and even Ericson went with bolt on keels by the 80s, and none of 
> them fell off. I hear people talk about replacing keel bolts, but I assume 
> they mean just the nuts, which doesn't seem to make a lot of sense, since the 
> crevice corrosion is likely to a problem with the bolt/stud. Are the bolts J 
> bolts like concrete anchors, or just threaded rod set into lead? I imagine 
> replacing a J bolt would be a huge job. Is replacing them ever actually done? 
> Could you just drill, tap, and thread in new stainless rod in between the 
> original bolts for extra safety? Or am I worrying too much about a mostly 
> non-issue? It's just that most bolt on keel boats I've looked at have water 
> in the bilge meaning the bolts/nuts will stay wet most of the time (probably 
> mainly rainwater/condensation I guess), so it seems like I should be 
> concerned.
> 
> It's interesting also that after a lot of discussion with the Ericson guys 
> (also a great group of owners, like this group), one of the features of the 
> newer Ericson designs which improves comfort is the flared bow (the 80s 
> models), something which the C 35-2 also has. Walking up to this 35-2 a few 
> days ago just reminded me why I was so attracted to it originally. Yes, there 
> are a few things I would do differently, but it's basically ready to sail, as 
> is. 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
 
from AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Keel bolts comment/question

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

This was my experience when removing my keel. We had to “break it loose” when 
lifting the hull.

Question for you Rob, my keel joint had epoxy for the keel stub/keel joint 
which I assumed was done by a PO when the bottom was peeled and epoxy coated. 
Was it actually done at the plant?

Regards,
Dave
1982 C 37

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 12, 2019, at 13:11, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have watched a number of keels removed from a hull.  Most all the time the 
> epoxy held the keel when the nuts were removed.  In fact there are special 
> wedges made to try to break it loose  . . . . . It is a really tough job  . . 
> . .
> Bottom line, in my opinion, it will not matter whether the torquing is done 
> in or out of the water . . . .
>  
> Rob Ball  C 34
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I kind’a knew that when I mentioned that I created a manifold for Ronin, I 
should have put the word in scare-quotes.

What I did was really very simple. All I needed were a few stackable “Tees” and 
elbows. What I wanted to achieve was a fixed and clear distribution of the high 
pressure lines.

So, on that note, behold! An update 
<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2019/02/pulling-pushing-pex.html> to my 
moribund blog which has some pictures that should make it clearer…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>

> On Feb 2, 2019, at 12:37 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave:  please describe the manifold you installed.
>  
> From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2019 7:13 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Dave Godwin <mailto:dave.god...@me.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Water Lines...
>  
> I replaced all of the original grey plastic pipe in our boat. With the 
> exception of a section where someone (ahem, looks at self…) ran a screw 
> through it, it was perfectly serviceable, However, since I am replacing the 
> fixtures in the head and the galley and have adde a transom-mounted cockpit 
> shower I replaced all of it.
>  
> I used 1/2” SeaTech polyethylene tubing and associated fittings. The job was 
> fairly easy to do and allowed for the building of a simple manifold on the 
> pressure side of the system for the hot and cold outflows. The best thing 
> that I did was purchase the pipe cutters to insure a clean, 90-degree cut on 
> the ends.
>  
> Pictures available upon request.
>  
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On Feb 2, 2019, at 1:57 AM, sender via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> The original grey, opaque plastic pipe that was commonplace in the late 70s 
>> & early 80s was polybutylene.
>>  
>> My understanding is the issue with this material is in residential use it 
>> split open causing a flood, in situations where pressures AND temperatures 
>> are high (180F).  It was taken off the market and companies were, and still 
>> are reluctant to make compatible fittings out of liability fears.  Having 
>> said that, I've kept the poly-b in my boat as it unlikely to fail since my 
>> my water is only periodically under pressure, its only 40 psi, and it never 
>> gets really hot.  if it was in my house, I'd remove it.
>>  
>> Vinyl tubing tends to shrink, yellow and harden up over time.
>>  
>> I'd do 1/4" or 3/8" pex if I was running new, but not sharkbites for 
>> fittings, there are lots of other compression fitting available at lower 
>> cost.
>>  
>> Just my $0.02
>> Eric
>>  
>> On Wed, Jan 30, 2019 at 7:07 AM David via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> I am sure this has been gone over before...so please indulge me.
>>>  
>>> Replacing, re-designing, water lines in 1981 40-2.  Pex is the obvious 
>>> choice.   Are there less obvious (and have cheaper tools required to 
>>> install) choices?
>>>  
>>> Has anyone improved on the original design?   I am thinking of adding 
>>> easier accessible manifolds and an additional line for antifreeze and 
>>> blowing out water.
>>>  
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>  
>>> David F. Risch, J. D.
>>> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
>>> (401) 419-4650 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray