Re: Stus-List Slow use of coolant.

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I had a slow leak which I could by looking at coolant stains on the absorbent 
pad kept under the engine.  It is possible that your leak is slow enough that 
the coolant evaporates before getting to the bilge.

 

To find mine, I used an ultraviolet flashlight 
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RV8PREI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8
 

 =1 and Dex-Cool leak detector tracer 
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2VKNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8
 

 =1

 

This worked well as it was next to impossible to see the coolant leak which in 
my case came from the coolant pump.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

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Re: Stus-List padwheel analogue thru hull device

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

I have an Airmar CS4500 which was installed in 2013.  Airmar has newer models 
(ST800, ST850, UST800 & UST850).  It is through the hull and when viewed from 
the outside looks like a depth transducer.  See: 
http://www.airmar.com/uploads/brochures/cs4500.pdf for what I have and 
http://www.airmar.com/productinfo.html?category=MT 
<http://www.airmar.com/productinfo.html?category=MT=Marine%20Transducers> 
=Marine%20Transducers for the newer stuff.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: Doug Mountjoy [mailto:svrebeccal...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Friday, September 14, 2018 3:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci
Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel analogue thru hull device

 

Ron, 

Does your speed sensor shoot through the hull? If so what model is it?

Thanks 

Doug

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

Rebecca Leah 

LF39 

Port Orchard YC, WA.

 

 

 

 Original message ----

From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List  

Date: 9/14/18 10:22 (GMT-08:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Ron Ricci  

Subject: Re: Stus-List padwheel analogue thru hull device 

 

I have an Airmar ultrasonic speed sensor.  It accurately gives speed readings 
through water to 0.1 knots.  GPS gives speed over ground and isn't as 
responsive as sensor.  

Ron Ricci

Patriot

 

On Fri, Sep 14, 2018, 1:09 PM James Bibb via CnC-List  
wrote:

Good question. 

I believe that it measures speed of the boat instead of speed over ground which 
is helpful when you are trying to judge movement and sail trim versus how fast 
the tide could be moving the boat.  

I know there are other sensors now that measure without the paddle.  


> On Sep 14, 2018, at 9:03 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> I'm doing an overhaul of my electronics, and I have a general question for 
> those of you who have been through this before - Are the classic Padwheel 
> Speed Measuring instruments still worth keeping or have they gone the way of 
> the Steam Engine?
> 
> I'm pretty sure most Depth Transducer readers now mathematically calculate 
> your speed from comparative readings, and just about any GPS device including 
> your phone will give your speed through any plotting software... So what do I 
> do with this old padwheel? - disconnect and plug or patch over the hole on 
> the next haul out?
> 
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C
> Halifax, NS
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List padwheel analogue thru hull device

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have an Airmar ultrasonic speed sensor.  It accurately gives speed
readings through water to 0.1 knots.  GPS gives speed over ground and isn't
as responsive as sensor.
Ron Ricci
Patriot

On Fri, Sep 14, 2018, 1:09 PM James Bibb via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Good question.
>
> I believe that it measures speed of the boat instead of speed over ground
> which is helpful when you are trying to judge movement and sail trim versus
> how fast the tide could be moving the boat.
>
> I know there are other sensors now that measure without the paddle.
>
>
> > On Sep 14, 2018, at 9:03 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all,
> > I'm doing an overhaul of my electronics, and I have a general question
> for those of you who have been through this before - Are the classic
> Padwheel Speed Measuring instruments still worth keeping or have they gone
> the way of the Steam Engine?
> >
> > I'm pretty sure most Depth Transducer readers now mathematically
> calculate your speed from comparative readings, and just about any GPS
> device including your phone will give your speed through any plotting
> software... So what do I do with this old padwheel? - disconnect and plug
> or patch over the hole on the next haul out?
> >
> > Dan
> > Breakaweigh
> > C
> > Halifax, NS
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Need sails...

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

Welcome to the 37+ fleet!  If you haven’t already discovered, it is both fast 
and comfortable.

 

I have a 37+ and the former owner raced it.  He had more sails than you could 
imagine.  We use the boat for cruising and don’t really need most of the sails.

 

Here’s a link to the sails that I have including sizes and photos:  
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgwwnK_wNiF3vMoCA.  The one’s crossed out are no 
longer available.  One was sold (145% jib) and the rest were sent to Bacon 
Sails.  Josh Muckley picked up a couple from them. 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2018 8:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur
Subject: Stus-List Need sails...

 

Hello listers...

 

I recently purchased a 37+ and wondering if anyone has gently used sails they 
would part with?  Still a month of heavier air up here in Mackinac, and current 
sails a bit big, light, and  too much for my shorthanded crew.  Would like #2 
and #3 but open to other ideas. Check those big unidentified lumps in the 
basement for me, eh?  

Thanks!!

 

 

Chuck Saur

 

(517)-490-5926

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Re: Stus-List Cruising Destinations in Narraganset Bay

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Brian,

 

If you go down the Sakonnet River, there are also town moorings in Fogland
(Tiverton) and Third Beach (Middletown).  We sometimes make an overnight
stop on the way to Cuttyhunk and have always found an open mooring.  Fogland
is more protected and Third Beach can be choppy.  

 

Wickford is a neat little village.  There are several options for moorings
or tying up between two pilings inside the harbor.  

 

You can get a mooring at Battleship Cove from Dockwa.  The key attractions
are a WWII submarine and several targets.  If you or your wife have seen a
battleship before, I doubt if it's worth a night.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset
Beach via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 10:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nauset Beach
Subject: Stus-List Cruising Destinations in Narraganset Bay

 

We are planning a cruise to Narraganset Bay next month and are interested in
any suggestions / tips / things to see on land, places to provision, etc. on
various harbors / anchorages.  It has been years since we have spent any
time there, though frequently stop over at Sachuest  on the Sekonnet when
passing by traveling east or west.  We prefer to anchor or grab a mooring
vs. tying up at a dock.  Our preliminary itinerary is to make a circle
around the bay:  

 

Dutch Island - probably a mooring at Dutch I Marina

 

Potter's Cove - is there a place to anchor or is it all moorings, are any
moorings open and available?

 

Bristol YC - plan to go to the Herreschoff and AC museum as has been redone
since we were there last, possibly the Blithewold Estate.  Is Linden Place
museum worth a visit?  

 

A couple nights going down the Sekonnet 

 

Any suggestions about any of these locations or others is appreciated.  Am
not planning on going to Newport as it is just too crowded.  Wickford has
been recommended as a great village to visit but the only time have been
there was tied up at a marina on a very hot and humid August day [not the
best memory] and did not see any moorings or a place to really anchor.
Battleship Cove is a possible though not sure the Admiral really wants to
visit the Massachusetts, and I am not sure I want to spend the night there,
if one can.   

 

TIA,

Brian

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Re: Stus-List Engine mounts

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Two of mine were bad and I replaced all four.  The parts were inexpensive and 
the only issue I’ve had is corrosion on the steel parts.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 12:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Engine mounts

 

One of my engine mounts on my Yanmar 3HM35F is hopelessly seized.As they 
are over 25 years old anyway, I’m wondering if I should just replace the one 
that’s messed up or all 4.

 

Do these things go have an effective life?  

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

My 37+ has an Edson 776-4AL which has a stamped steel plate with aluminum 
sheaves.  It cost me $303 in 2014.  This part is no longer listed on the Edson 
website.  The plate which is about 1/8” thick and is sandwiched between the 
bottom of the pedestal and fiberglass on the cockpit floor.  The newer 
776AL-4AL has an aluminum plate with aluminum sheaves.  The plate is about half 
an inch thick so when sandwiched as the original steel plate, the pedestal will 
sit about 3/8” higher and probably show a gap.   

 

The original steel plate would have worked had the location been in a dry area 
below the pedestal.  C should have used a stainless steel or aluminum plate 
in the 37+/40 application.  There may be similar issues on other boats.  Maybe 
Edson knows which C’s used the 776-4AL in an exposed area.  There may be a 
demand for an identical replacement using a more suitable plate material.  When 
I got my 776-4AL, the Edson person who helped me said they could water cut new 
plates as the original dies were probably gone.  Edson had files on the 37+ and 
I do remember the person at the counter hollering back to one of the offices, 
“Hey Rob, we have one of your boats”.  Magically, a file folder with details of 
the 37+ appeared.

 

Edson is really a first class outfit and I’m sure if a few list members 
contacted them, they’d offer a solution.

 

Ron 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe 
all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks

 

Richard

s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

Bruce,

 

I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  

 

Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 

 

This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com?> ] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  

 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0

 

It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  

 

Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  

 

Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:

 

a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire

b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail

c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly

d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0

f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables &

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  

 

Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 

 

This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  



 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  







 

 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0



 

 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0



 

 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0







It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  







Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  







Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:





a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire



b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail



c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly



d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:   
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0



f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & wires through & label fish 
lines accordingly

g).  Remove idler pulleys, disassemble, check & grease

h).  Remove & replace plate, hopefully with Edson supplied version, if not have 
one machined from aluminum locally

i).   Reassemble







I understand that some folks have ordered replacement plates only to find them 
to not be an exact fit (thus the comment about having one machined locally).  
Can anyone confirm or deny this?  







Given what you can see, how emergent is this repair? 







Thanks for all your input!





Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+

"Astralis"

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Stus-List Free Sails for C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have two jibs that I don't use and will give them to anyone willing to
pick them up in Annapolis, MD.  Below are links to photos and specs for each
sail.

.   98% Kevlar Jib - https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YrkeG82Ht0IpjLOc5

o   Luff = 51'-5"

o   Foot = 15'-8"

o   Leach = 49'

.   155% Light Kevlar Genoa -
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YrkZsSamLMQtUGi1y

o   Luff = 52'

o   Foot = 24'-9"

o   Leach = 50'-6"

I took these sails to Bacon Sails last March and after several inquiries
they finally said the sails had no value because supposedly they were
de-laminating.  When I left the sails off, the preliminary inspection did
not show any delamination nor did I see any when the photos were taken.  It
is not practical for me to pick up the sails and it would be a shame to
dispose of them.  I'd feel much better if someone could put them to good use
(or at least store them in their attic).   

Please contact me off line ASAP if you are interested.  I will make
arrangements so you can pick up one or both.  

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

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Re: Stus-List 1989 37R Lead Keel Patching?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

This looks a lot like my keel.  I had an area, near the forward most keel bolt, 
where rusty water would ‘ooze’ out of the keel.  This area had been filled with 
some kind of material.  We drilled out the affected area, flushed it out and 
dried it with a hot air gun.  The hole was again filled.  It helped but I do 
see evidence that the problem has not been fixed.

 

This spring I noticed a blister in the lead at the bottom of the second keel 
bolt.  We drilled a hole into the blister at the bottom of keel bolt and 
another about 8” above it.  What appeared to be fresh water came out the bottom 
hole but nothing out the top.  The holes did not seem to be connected.  It 
seemed the water came from the bilge (under the mast step) and worked its’ way 
down the bolt.  I had a whole bunch of suggested fixes from recasting the keel 
to filling the affected area before launch and drilling it out at the end of 
each season to allow drainage.

 

I ended up threading the lower hole to take a 1/8” NPT fitting and evacuating 
the hole.  I then put strips of zinc into the hole and plugging it with a 
stainless steel plug.  Lead and stainless steel are pretty close in the anode 
table but the zinc can’t hurt.  Next fall, I’ll remove the plug and let the 
keel drain.  Freezing water will only enlarge the voids.  I also plan to dump 
anti-freeze into the bilge above the affected area and to apply the same ‘fix’ 
to the forward most keel bolt.  

 

There has always been a blister at the bottom of my fourth bolt.  It doesn’t 
seem to be getting any bigger bit I keep an eye on it.  

 

My thoughts are that although there may be a good seal that keeps salt water 
out of the bilge, there is a migration path for water around the keel bolt 
nuts/washers along the bolt.  You may be experiencing this and while ‘bondo’ 
may hide it, the problem may still exist.

 

Good luck on your 37R,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Languid 
Refiner via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, June 9, 2018 5:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Languid Refiner
Subject: Stus-List 1989 37R Lead Keel Patching?

 

I am purchasing the 37R. It has been dry for five years now in a warehouse. 
There is a spot on the keel where it appears some lead is coming through. The 
previous owner is very knowledgeable and handy and recommends patching with 
some bondo, Any other opinions or suggestions? 

 

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115583.jpg

 

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115584.jpg

 

https://imgoat.com/uploads/45147dee72/115585.jpg

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Re: Stus-List Rudder play fix on c 40 1983 aft cabin

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Peter,

 

Your rudder play is much more than mine.  The construction drawings for my C 
37+ show ½” Delrin bushings at the top and bottom of the rudder tube.  The 
upper one is 4” long and it looks like the lower one is 2”-3” long.  I can’t 
tell how they are held in place or if they could be easily replaced.  I wonder 
if you could glue a Delrin sleeve to the inside of the pushing?  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETE via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 7:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETE
Subject: Stus-List Rudder play fix on c 40 1983 aft cabin

 

Hello all 

 

I am in the process of fixing the excess play in my rudder feels like a quarter 
inch or more .   There is approximately 1-2 mm of space between sleeve and  
rudder post.   I have removed the rudder and it appears there is a  Delrin 
sleeve any advice would be appreciated on the fix. 

 

Thanks

 

peter

 

Goonie Island 

Portland ME

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Tom,

 

With a lot of input from Gary Russell, I installed a below deck pilot.  I 
previously talked to Raymarine about a wheel pilot and was warned the 37+ was 
too heavy.  They sell a kit with a linear actuator, control head, control unit 
and sensor for around $3000 depending upon rebate.  It works great!  

 

Installation is a lot of work.  You have to cut the rudder post, stiffen it, 
make a shelf for the actuator and in my case drill out the rudder shaft (you 
may have a keyway).  Between Gary and myself, there is a wealth of photos and 
useful info.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

Good luck,

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 5:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

 

Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then begins 
to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there. 

 

We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It 
started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for long  
then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went out.  

 

The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went out 
again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like that is the 
source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be able to confirm 
that.

 

A few questions for the C hivemind...

 

Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?

 

How much to replace the pilot?

 

How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?

 

Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.

 

thx

 

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 

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Re: Stus-List 1981 C 34 second propane locker?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

If you are looking for backup propane storage, let me offer a suggestion.  I
only can carry one tank and have a 5 kg fiberglass tank.  Theoretically, you
can see the level in the tank but have to remember to check it.  There is
room in my propane locker for three 1 pound camp stove cylinders.  I bought
an adaptor
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YSY20/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
?ie=UTF8
 =1) so a cylinder can be connected in place of the tank.
For me this is especially good since my propane grille and outboard use the
1 pound cylinder.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DMcMillan
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DMcMillan
Subject: Stus-List 1981 C 34 second propane locker?

 

I have a 1981 C with a propane locker on starboard side next to the
helmsman seat.  On the port side there is an identical looking locker but
the "lid" does not have any hinges and seems to be glued down.   Has anyone
converted this to a second propane locker?

 

Thanks

Dennis

Andante

Victoria BC

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C 33 Bilge Issue

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Ray,

 

If the water was coming in from the keel, you’d see if coming around one or 
more keel bolts.  I don’t exactly understand what you meant by “walls of the 
bilge” but I check all hull fittings including your depth sounder and speed 
sensor.

 

Ron  

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Re: Stus-List Rigging tape for wrapping pins, turnbuckles, etc.

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

I’ve used 3M white electrical tape usually purchased at Home Despot.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 6, 2018 6:53 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List Rigging tape for wrapping pins, turnbuckles, etc.

 

Used the last of my 3M Marine Rigging Tape today wrapping the pins on the 
shrouds.  I've always used the 3M tape and found it to be fairly reliable and 
long lasting.  

 

Before I order more, does anybody use a rigging tape that is incredibly better 
than the 3M tape?  (Please don't mention the West Marine crap.)

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

The spinnakers are symmetrical. - Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 8:05 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale

 

Ron,

 Are the spinnakers symetrical or asym?

Gary

S/V Kaylarah




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Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have four genoas, two spinnakers (3/4 & 1.5 oz.) and a mainsail 
(Mylar-Kevlar) that I don’t need.  Some are in almost perfect condition and the 
others are in very good to excellent condition.  Check out the link: 

https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgwwnK_wNiF3vMoCA which includes a spreadsheet 
with sizes and descriptions along with folders showing detailed photos.  I’ll 
donate 2% of all proceeds to Stus-List.

 

Around May 10th, I’ll be driving to VA and could arrange to meet on way down to 
deliver.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Modify Router to DC Power Supply

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

You may be able to purchase a 12 VDC to 12 VDC regulated power supply or
make one with an inexpensive Zener diode and a couple of resistors.

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chuck,

 

Last time my mast was out, I replaced the anchor light with a tri-color nav 
light & anchor light combo.  I can use this for sail power only and the visible 
range is much better.  The white portion of the tri-color alos illuminates the 
Windex.  

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 5, 2018 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Spring Projects

 

Hadn't hauled the last two years so I have a rather long list. It's like a 
refit:

Rewire the mast, changed all lights to LED (mast is out)
Replace sheeves and axles
Replace upper section of furler
Removed all halyards and washed, scrubbed and soaked in Downy to soften them.
Replace two halyards, repurpose old ones
Paint mast
Replace spreader tip protectors
Repair two floor boards at home
Replace two solar fans
Heavy wet sand old bottom paint to change type, paint new
Pull chainplates and Repair wet core
Replace windows (just finished making templates)
Paint deck and paint nonskid areas with Kiwi Grip
PoliGlow the topsides
Relaunch, step the mast, tune the rig, etc




On April 3, 2018 at 1:16 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

Listers,

 

Now that April is finally here, I was curious as to what you have planned for 
your Spring projects.

 

On the Enterprise:

 

1. Remove and service hydraulic autopilot pump 

2. Re-vinyl Starfleet markings

3. Service Refrigeration

4. Install new hot water heater

5. Paint bottom

 

… and if you’re down south somewhere and have been in the water and sailing 
already, I hate you.   


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 





 






 


 

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Re: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

We’ll be in Annapolis the preceding weekend for my Boat School 50th and will 
miss the C Rendezvous.   If people are looking for a place to stay on dry 
land, I’d suggest looking at Air B  Even with our “special” reunion rate for 
hotels were very expensive.  

 

Several of us are staying at 
https://www.expedia.com/Annapolis-Hotels-Renovated-Historic-Home-Located-Downtown-Walk-Everywhere.h18992901.Hotel-Information?adults=2
 

 
=0=10%2F26%2F2018=10%2F28%2F2018=6034082=dea885d8-f9f8-45ea-9058-33f68560c3a0HWRQ1508334523920=false&=undefined_dp=365.67_ts=1508334618050_curr=USD_pg=HSR===1521219359274
  There are other choices.

 

Hopefully some listers might find this useful,

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2018 9:25 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List *Reminder #1* October 26, 27, 28 - 2018 Mid-Atlantic C 
Rendezvous

 

Hey folks, 

 

This is a friendly reminder for the rendezvous deadline to register with the 
Annapolis Harbor master (Beth) for a slip.  She asked that we get as many 
registrations in by March 31st as possible.  It was brought to my attention 
that moorings cannot be reserved. When I checked with Beth, she confirmed that 
moorings are exclusively first come first served but also said that finding a 
mooring shouldn't be a problem at that time of year.

 

Still looking for anyone interested in arranging extracurricular activities.  
Food, walking tours, swag, etc.

 

http://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/p/2018-mid-atlantic-c-rendezvous.html?m=1

 

 

All the best, 

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I’ve cleaned mine with vinegar and applied Epifanes rubbed effect varnish.  The 
rubbed effect does not have UV inhibitors.  For areas exposed to sunlight, I 
apply clear varnish and a final coat of rubbed effect.  Last year, I did my 
companionway ladder and sanded it first.  The shade and color match.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2018 10:03 AM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Refinishing interior woodwork (not cabin sole)

 

Hello all,

 

I am about ready to start trying to repair some water-spotted, worn and dried 
out wood in our 1994 C 37/40+.  Does anyone know what type of varnish, 
lacquer or other treatment was used originally by C to finish the interior 
woodwork?  I'm talking vertical surfaces, the nav table, etc., and I'd really 
like to match the interior look it had when it came out of the showroom so I 
don't have to refinish every square inch.

 

What should I use to remove the existing coating (if I should remove it at 
all), and what would you recommend for a new coating?  

 

I've used lemon oil before, but it seems to turn the wood dark over time.  

 

I'm thinking Danish Oil, but I really don't know enough to make an informed 
decision.

 

Thanks for the insights!

 

Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Connecrion/hose leak, shower handle to head

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I replaced my shower valve and also the inspection port on the top of the 
holding tank.  Here’s a link to photos showing all this:  
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YqjuwfgDPMTngkLEw

 

Hope it helps,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bwhitmore 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 12:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore
Subject: Stus-List Connecrion/hose leak, shower handle to head

 

Hello all,

 

We have a 1994 C 37/40 + where the shower temperature handle to shower head 
hose is leaking. Though there is an access port it is not large enough to see 
or fix the problem.   

 

Has anyone fixed this sort of problem before?

 

 

Thank you, 

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Brien,

As a fellow submariner, I sympathize about water in the people tank.  During 
off-season, I get a small amount in my bilge and have taken a few steps to 
limit this.  The first thing is to put something in the luff track to 
divert/stop the down the mast.   When winterizing the boat, I pump/vacuum all 
water out of the bilge, add some RV anti-freeze, run the bilge pump until pink 
comes out the discharge, pull the fuses to the switch and move the float switch 
as far up as possible.  I then make sure there is a couple of gallon of 
anti-freeze in the bilge.  Periodically, when I check the boat, if there is 
some additional liquid in the bilge, I pump it with a hand pump so as not to 
"de-winterize' the bilge pump.

My preference is to keep the bilge bone dry but this is not possible without 
de-watering periodically.  As a nuke, I remember having chloride stress 
corrosion and stainless steel drilled into my head.

Straight Board and Dry Bilges,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brien Sadler 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 4:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brien Sadler
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast boot and keel bolts

The only reason I worry about the mast leak is water in the bilge in the 
winter. It’s probably from being a submariner for close to 20 years, that in my 
mind water in the bilge is a big “No No”. I don’t want it turning to ice and 
causing problems. I have a bottle that catches most of the water that drips to 
the mast step, but when we have a couple of deluge days like we had yesterday 
in CT the bottle over flows into the bilge. I poured a little anti-freeze in 
the bilge at the beginning of the season to keep any over flow from freezing, 
and that worked pretty well. Since it was warm out today I vacuumed everything 
out and it’s dry but who knows in the next 2-3 months how many more 3-4 inches 
of rain days we’re going to have. Any other suggestions on rain water in the 
bilge and how to deal with it in the winter would be great.
Also, I think I’m going to leave the keel bolts just like they are and inspect 
on a regular basis. They seem to be fine and the previous owners left them that 
way and they seemed to know what they were doing. So I’ll just keep an eye on 
it. Thanks again.

Brien

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List 37/40 Fuel tank removal

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Alan,

My fuel tank was removed in 2011 to access the strut.  I had my boatyard do
it and didn't think there were any issues.  The tank was not removed from
the boat and may have only been lifted out of the way to get to the  strut
fasteners.  It could be hard to remove the hoses.  

Could it be possible that the tank was bedded on a sealant?

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

   

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2018 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List 37/40 Fuel tank removal

I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the aft
berth to expose the tank top. I have removed the two hold down cleats (cut
down 2x4 screwed to the tank well sides at the top). The tank still seems
very solid, but I can't see anything else holding it. Has anyone else done
this?

Alan Liles
SV Elendil
Vancouver BC


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Stus-List Force 10 Galley Range - Thermostat

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Patriot has a 1991 version of a 3-burner Force 10 propane stove with oven.
The temperature control on the oven is totally manual.  New versions of the
same stove (Galley Gourmet Range) have a thermostatically controlled oven.

 

The newer stove looks pretty much the same as the older stove.  it seemed
that newer stove's oven control valve could be installed on the older stove.
I contacted Force 10 and they said this had never be done and the new valve
would not fit on the older stove.

 

Has anyone tried adding the new Force 10 control valve or done anything to
similar?  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I also received the notice.  Somehow, the USCG Documentation Center enables 
these guys by providing mailing the list of documented boats.  They are taking 
advantage of an opportunity created when the $26.00 charge was created.  You’ll 
notice that before the government started trying to ‘cover’ their costs, there 
was no fee and no annoying “Maritime Documentation Center”.  While $26 is a 
small number considering what it costs to own a boat, it is a lot to process 
the paperwork.  Our government seems no better than these guys.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 24, 2018 10:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Stus-List "Maritime Documentation Center"

 

Just got my EARLY supposed Documentation Renewal from the "Maritime 
Documentation Center"

 

I think the USCG must have taken heed of all the complaints, as these people 
have really toned down their ‘Renewal’

There is no amount to pay, and now little bits in there like , This is a 
courtesy notice,  This is not an invoice,  you are under no obligation to pay, 
etc – 

Things that were not in their notice in past years.

 

I am sure they will still snag some people who are either not paying attention, 
or are too busy to notice.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

My sheaves seemed to be original as I could not find anything from the FO 
indicating they had ever been replaced. Patriot’s mast was out last winter and 
my rigger said her sheaves were fine.  They did not have a groove for wire 
rope. 

 

I think my halyards are 7/16 with a  1/2” groove.  Each winter, I pull 3/8” 
messenger lines in place of the halyards.  The extra space makes it easy to 
connect the messenger to the reeving eye on the halyard.  I’d suggest keeping 
the 1/2" groove.

 

Just my thoughts,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 3:17 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

 

I have a new problem for the collective wisdom.

 

I'm getting the masthead sheaves re-made by Ed at Zephyrwerks.  He made my boom 
end sheaves 2 years ago and did a great job.  I have a 1/2" wide sheave box for 
3 sheaves.  He cut them with a slight relief and cut the groove for a 1/2" 
line.  I had told him that I simply didn't want to needlessly limit my options 
in the future despite only using 5/16ths or 3/8ths for the reefing lines.

 

Now 2 years later I'm in a similar situation except the masthead sheave boxes 
are 5/8ths wide.  I can't exactly recall but I believe that I'm running 3/8ths 
halyards.  When I talked to Ed he advised that he would like to cut the groove 
to match the line which is on the boat. 3/8ths. But also stated that he could 
cut it however I desired. It seems unnecessarily limiting of my options in the 
future to cut a 3/8ths groove. It is far easier to run 3/8ths on a 1/2 inch 
groove than 1/2 inch on a 3/8ths groom. The original sheaves were v-grooves and 
would accommodate anything from 1/4 inch wire rope up to 1/2 or even 9/16ths 
line.  And we haven't even talked about the added thickness of a core to core 
eye splice.


Anybody want to share their thoughts? 


Thanks,


Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 



•••

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Re: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I had a similar problem with my pedestal guard and used butyl rubber.  The 
pedestal guard with feet were moved up after loosening the set screws that hold 
it to the pedestal structure.  This allowed butyl rubber to be placed around 
the threaded part of the feet.  The pedestal guard was then pushed back down so 
the butyl rubber filled the penetrations in the deck.  The pedestal guard feet 
are held against the deck.  It worked.

 

The cables run inside the pedestal guard and under the “bubble” located 
top/aft/centerline in the aft cabin headliner.  Without removing the cables, I 
could not remove the pedestal guard.  It looked like the bottom of the feet 
were threaded and designed to take a lock nut.  If the above fix above did not 
work, I considered drilling holes in the “bubble” and adding lock nuts to hold 
the feet down..

 

Ron 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2018 4:50 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Stopping leaks through pedestal guard feet?

 

Hello all,

 

We have a 1994 C 37/40+, and we are replacing the stern and v berth mattress 
foam and fabric.  I have noticed a very small leak which is coming from the 
starboard pedestal guard foot, where the bolts and wires penetrate the cockpit 
floor.  We have stopped the vast majority of the leak by applying a small layer 
of aluminum duct tape at the point where the stainless tubing penetrates the 
stainless foot. There is a hard plastic spacer that fills the gap between the 
tube & the foot, but it doesn't seem to be made of the proper material to be 
properly water resistant.

 

So, I expect this leaves us with water coming in under the foot itself, where 
it is bolted through the floor of the cockpit itself (which is finished with 
teak).  

 

What would you suggest as to the best way to seal this?  The leak we get is 
coming down over the stern berth, and I sure don't want leaks staining our new 
fabric!  

 

I am thinking about loosening the feet & lifting up the pedestal guard, and 
applying butyl rubber to the bottom.  If that works, great.  But, how would I 
also more permanently stop water ingress due to water finding its way between 
the tube and the foot?

 

Thanks for your ideas!

 

Bruce Whitmore

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Stus-List C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I'm wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their
rudder.  

 

At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a
through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder.  The wheels ride
on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3"ID and
4"OD.  My wheels are frozen and do not turn.  When the rudder is turned, the
wheels drag on bushing and rotate it.  I've tried to reach in, turn the
wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck.  It looks like I may have to
remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the wheels.  

 

Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be issues
removing it?  Does anyone know a source for skate wheels?

 

There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and the
hull.  With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and rotate
around the rudder shaft.  I guess when the rudder lifts up, the bushing
provides a bearing surface.  Does this sound correct?

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

 



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Re: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Last season, I ended up having my boatyard doing this.  I have no idea of the 
last time this was done but it was before 2010.  The boatyard used Ken Heaton’s 
torque values.  In order to loosen some of the nuts, an impact tool was 
required. - Ron  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 2, 2018 3:18 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Stus-List Keel bolt torque

 

Ok Guys,

Since I have the mast out, this provides the rare opportunity to access ALL of 
the keel bolts.  I've measured each of the bolt and nut diameters and checked 
the archives for torque specs.  I intend to buy a toque multiplier and the 
appropriate sized sockets.  I think I can do it for less than the yard is going 
to charge and I'll come out of it with some tools.  I'll also be able to tell 
myself that it was done correctly.

 

That being said it sounds like the best practices are are follows:

-  be on the hard

- loosen the bolts one at a time, clean, and lubricate with tef-gel

- reinstall and torque at progressively higher levels.

 

I was unable to find the torque spec for my 1.5" bolt in the website but Ken 
Heaton cited 600lbs in one of his past responses.

 

Keel bolts (fwd to aft):

 Nut   stud   torque

1 - 1 1/2 (38mm)1 (25mm)  350

2 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

3 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

4 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

5 - 1 7/8 (47.5mm)1 1/4 (32mm)   450

6 - 2 3/16 (56mm)  1 1/2 (38mm)  600?

7 - 1 1/2 (38mm)1 (25mm)  350

8 - 3/4 (19.5mm)1/2 (13mm)  80

 

 

Anything I'm missing?

 

 

Thanks,

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

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Re: Stus-List wire gauge

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bev,

 

Patriot’s battery wiring was upgraded last year.  I used 2/0 from the battery 
negative terminals to the common tie point on the engine block and #2 from the 
battery positive terminals to the battery switch and then to the starter.  #2 
was the largest size that could be easily fit on the battery switch.  Each 
battery has a 200 amp terminal mounted fuse to protect the cabling.  After 
rewiring, I noticed a marked improvement in performance. 

 

My #1 bank is a single group 31 battery located under the settee in the forward 
part of the main cabin.  Even with the longer distance to the starter, the 
engine cranks fine.  The #2 bank is two group 31 batteries located under the 
aft part of the settee (just forward of the galley sink).  I use the #2 bank 
for house loads and keep the #1 battery in reserve for starting the engine.  
With ALL or even just the #2 battery selected, I can start the engine without 
‘rebooting’ the chart plotter.

 

I’d also suggest borrowing the correct crimping tool and dies (such as Thomas & 
Betts TBM6S) to make sure the connections at the lugs are solid.  

 

Good luck at rewiring your boat,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, December 1, 2017 1:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow
Subject: Stus-List wire gauge

 

What is the best gauge for wiring the battery to the engine? Do I need to go to 
1 or 2. We have a voltage drop from 12 to 8 volts.

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Re: Stus-List CO detector choices

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I spent some time web surfing and found that there are Marine extensions for UL 
2304.  Someone contacted Kidde to see if their units met the standard and 
struck out.  I no longer have access to UL standards so I can’t check to see 
what they are.  My guess is that if you really want (and have to) comply with 
the standard, you’ll have to pony up for the marine unit.

 

Just an aside, the business I used to own was certified to apply a UL 508 
(industrial controls) label on equipment we our shop built.  Periodically, we 
were inspected and one time were told that the ground bar we used did not cut 
the mustard because it “was not in our procedure”.  If you go look in the 
circuit breaker box in your house you’ll see a similar ground bar.  For 
something in the order of $2,000, UL would “investigate” it and “add” to our 
procedure.  Go figure if it’s really worth spending the extra bucks on a UL 
“Marine” CO detector.

 

My CO detector is due for replacement.  I am having a hard time spending over 
$100 for a $25 UNIT.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Castor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2017 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Castor
Subject: Re: Stus-List CO detector choices

 

UL 2034 is the applicable standard.  It covers residential, RV and marine 
applications.  But it contains specific additional requirements for use on 
boats.  So I'm guessing if it does not state is rated for marine or boat use, 
it doesn't meet these supplemental requirements.  Not sure what they are.  
There used to be a separate UL standard for boat CO detectors, but it was 
deleted and those requirements were added to UL 2034 as additional requirements 
for marine use.

Dave Castor

 

On Mon, Nov 27, 2017 at 12:44 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

My original coal mine CO detector died long ago. I replaced it with a Xintex 
marine CO detector. It is now old enough to need replacement or a factory 
refurb if they will do it. That will cost either $140 or so for new or $25 for 
a refurb. So I was in the hardware store and what do you know – a home CO 
detector for $25 brand new and it runs on batteries.

Does anyone have any idea if these are suitable for a boat? I am going to get 
something, no way do I want people sleeping below without some kind of alarm.

 

 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Experience with exp system epoxy

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

Total Boat clear penetrating epoxy sealer 
(https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97636) 
does a good job sealing the sides and bottom.  I cut it 50% with denatured 
alcohol and put on two coats.  For the surface, use a good quality varnish.  
I’ve used several thinned coats of Epifanes Clear Varnish for a base with a 
couple of thinned coats of their rubbed effect varnish.  The former adds UV 
protection and the latter gives a nice soft finish.  I would not put epoxy on 
the surface.

 

Once I tried to make a section of “non-skid” cabin sole by sprinkling salt 
crystals over wet varnish.  After the varnish dried, I washed of the salt.  
Thankfully, I experimented with a piece of plywood.  The surface wasn’t that 
rough.  Have any other listers tried this?

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Welch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2017 11:40 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Doug Welch
Subject: Stus-List Experience with exp system epoxy

 

I am installing a new teak and holly veneer cabin sole on my 33-2 and was going 
to seal it with west system 105/207 until I ran across exp system which seem 
similar but less expensive.  Does anyone have experience with exp system they 
can share? I would like to save some money on the epoxy but not at the risk off 
screwing up the very expensive veneer ($550/sheet):)

 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

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Re: Stus-List Surveyor

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bill,

 

I purchased Patriot in Annapolis and used Fred Wise.  Here’s his contact info:

Fred Wise Yacht Survey, LLC

Accredited Marine Surveyor

14154 Gregg Neck Road

Galena, Maryland 21635

410 648 5052

Fax 410 648 6857

 

He is knowledgeable and thorough.  Sorry I can’t find an email address.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of coltrek via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 21, 2017 12:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: coltrek
Subject: Stus-List Surveyor

 

 looking for a recommendation for a good surveyor in the Annapolis Area please.

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Bill Coleman

C 39

 

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Re: Stus-List Removing companionway slider plexiglass, C 37/40+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

See below for emails from my boatyard when they replaced my hatch.  Photos can 
be found at:  https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YqTvkapMRJyXOGr2V

 

Your boat may be different.  The new skylight appears to be held in place with 
adhesive.  I did not see any evidence of VHB tape.  The sliders were also 
replaced with something a little thicker (and more substantial).

 

Hope this helps,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

  _  

Ron,

 

See email below from Dan.  It appears the skylight was adhered with epoxy, and 
we will need to do some gelcoat repairs to the opening.  Also, see his comment 
about the companionway hatch slides.

 

Mark

 

 

Mark DeStefano

Service Coordinator

 

From: Dan Murphy 
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 9:27 AM
To: Mark DeStefano
Subject: RE: Patriot

 

Thanks for the info Mark. 

 

Here are those pictures we discussed. As mentioned, the hatch is coming up, but 
fighting all the way. Whatever they used for glue was the real deal and there 
is some delamination to the hatch perimter frame that will need repair. 

Also, we need to replace the sliders. Delrin or starboard is likely the best 
bet. 

 

We don't have an estimate yet but can work something out for the customer if he 
needs a number.

 

Thanks,

Dan

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Pfd

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Here's a link to a Mustang bobbin that calls for replacement of the bobbin
every three years:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C135%7C2290066%7C2290076=66
6701.  It states that this is to prevent inadvertent inflation.  My guess is
that you could safely extend the interval since it appears that the mode of
failure is "fail-safe".  The downside is that you could waste a good CO2
cartridge and may have your PFD stuck inside a locker.  A friend just
purchased one of these PFD's since one of his actuated inside a locker.
Best to inspect the entire actuator annually.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick
Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2017 10:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pfd

The maintenance record on the two auto inflate PFDs I bought show they were
made in October, 2015. Is it possible the bobbins in yours are marked with a
2015 manufacturing date and not an expiration date?
The maintenance for the PFDs calls for visual inspection of the green ring
in the inflator dome and of the green/red tab on the manual trigger, but I
don't recall an expiration date or a recommended replacement interval on the
bobbins.

On mine, the slider of the zipper IS on the end over the inflation mechanism
when the zipper is closed. And the zipper is a big improvement over the
Velcro strips on the Sospenders and West Marine PFDs I've bought previously.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



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Re: Stus-List PFD sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Use the code AC697 at checkout.  It appears in the link. You’ll get an Active 
Captain credit.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 12:54 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List PFD sale

 

I tried the link, which lists the price as you state.  However, when I add the 
PFDs to the cart, I get the $74.99 price.

 

From:   Joel Aronson via CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2017 10:08 AM

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc:   Joel Aronson 

Subject: Stus-List PFD sale

 

 

We have 2 of these.

 

This week the Defender 1st exclusive offer is an incredible value.  The
USCG approved Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport Inflatable PFDs are available
in both manual and automatic models. They incorporate Crewsaver's
"Fusion" 3D technology, so the PFD molds to the shape of your body.  Its
form-fitting neckline offers complete freedom of movement and maximizes
comfort. These life jackets feature 35 lbs. of buoyancy. The built-in,
unique chin support keeps your head tilted back so airways remain clear.
Its bladder will turn you on your back, and support your head. The
Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport can be fitted with a personal AIS device for
added safety, and all lifejackets include a light attachment point,
which is essential if you are making a long voyage or night passage.

The Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport Inflatable PFDs are available in (3)
colors: Red, Blue and Navy.

Hurry! This offer is limited to stock on hand, so get yours while
supplies last!

Check out all the details and get the AC code at the link below.

Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport USCG Inflatable PFD Manual Activation:
$34.99. (Special Buy Price: $74.99, Regularly: $119.99, List: $149.99)

Crewsaver Crewfit 35 Sport USCG Inflatable PFD Automatic Activation:
$39.99 (Special Buy Price: $79.99, Regularly: $131.99, List: $165.99)

Special ends: November 7, 2017 at 11:59 PM ET

Get the special price and learn more at:
  
http://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsp

Wow, you will not find a great price like anywhere. Ensure your crew is
safe, you can't afford not to. But hurry supplies are limited.


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

  _  

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

I “copied” Gary’s design and am happy with the results.  My rudder shaft did 
not have a keyway (Gary’s had one) so I ended up having to drill a 3/8” hole 
through a 3” stainless steel tube with ½” thick walls.  Edson makes an 
appropriate tiller arm with a 3/8” hole pre-drilled.  I used a drill bushing to 
start with a 1/8” pilot hole.  If you end up having to drill your shaft, let me 
know.  I have a drill bushing 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug 
Allardyce via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 12:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Allardyce
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

 

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

-Original Message-



 

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Re: Stus-List baby stay

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Rob,

 

I have one of those bendy masts with 3 spreaders and contemplated removing
the baby stay.  Rather than find out it was really needed at an inopportune
time, I installed a 4' PVC tube with a cap from a turnbuckle boot over the
stay.  The jib sheets are less likely to snag on the stay.  Better but not
perfect.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2017 9:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List baby stay

 

My 1984 C 32 has a very robust mast.as was stated "more like an
aluminum telephone pole",  nevertheless Rob Ball decided to outfit the rig
with a baby stay and for that reason, it stays on the boat.  It is a PITA
when tacking but you get to know your boat and learn how to make efficient
tacks by back winding the genoa to avoid the sail catching on the baby stay.


I am confident that the boat would perform fine without the baby stay on
most day sails but since it is there, it will be attached and tensioned.
Maybe on these rigs, the baby stay helps to induce 'rake' on these otherwise
'aluminum telephone poles'.

There was another C 32 84 at our club whose owner took the baby stay off
completely and he didn't appear to have any issues with his rig.

If I had one of the C models with the bendy masts, 3 spreaders, etc. I
would definitely keep the baby stay tensioned.  We raced a 34R for several
years and I can assure you that boat benefited from a tensioned baby stay. 

So for me, if the boat designer thought a baby stay was needed, then I will
use it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

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Re: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I have one left over from when I replaced a broken fixture.  It may still be
on my boat as I couldn't find it here at home.  Give me a chance to look on
my boat and, if necessary, go through my boat stuff again.  If I find it, I
can mail it to you.

 

Ron   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 13, 2017 6:44 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Aqua Signal Impossible Bolt

 

So I have a Series 41 Aqua Signal Bow light.  Dont ask me how but the bolt
that keeps it all together deep sixed.

 

No problem, I said as it went in, I can get another one from Aqua Signal.
Three emails.  No response.

 

So I have been trying to find a 3 1/4" long # 4 bolt.   Seems like a holy
Grail bolt to me.

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks, once again, in advance.

 

1981 40-2

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Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I’d be cautious about using a shop vac to blow air into a potable water system. 
 Even if you remove the filter and clean the tank, there are plenty of places 
for all the bacteria contained in that detritus you sucked out of a bilge 
pocket to hide.  It’s no problem if you don’t drink your water or use the 
vacuum to suck water out of your system.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 5:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

 

Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck.  I 
have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is 
great for around the boat anyway.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:

Marek,

 

Thank you for your very detailed procedure.   

 

What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Tom,

 

This is how I do it:

 

1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)

2. drain water from the water heater

3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available 
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with TWO valves ( 

 
https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)
 

4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)

5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that 
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online 
(e.g.:   
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may 
need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples 
etc.).

6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for 
each faucet on cold and hot water)

7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater would 
have plenty of water to be purged.

8. engage the water heater bypass

9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.

10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug of 
antifreeze

11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of each 
and every faucet

12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF

 

You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump and 
water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump getting 
water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull, disconnect the 
hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same procedure as for the 
supply side of the head).

 

If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure

 

Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would need 
5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a cotton-candy-like 
mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting the taste out of the 
water after this.

 

If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps out 
water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.

 

If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you winterise 
it, as well.

 

I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the head. It 
is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out. You need to 
put AF into the supply side, as well.

 

If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 ”Legato”

Ottawa, ON

(the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Lynch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Lynch 
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

 

What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?  

 

My system:

 

40 gallon tank estimated 

Water heater 

Pressurized water pump

2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump 

1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump. 

 

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer 
climate for the winter.  

 

Tom Lynch

S/V IndoIrish

C 33 MKII

Bayfield WI - Lake Superior 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  

Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

Thanks for the heads up.  I just got to my boat today and checked it.  The
top of the strainer is about 2" above the waterline and the bolts are OK.
For an emergency I'd consider bypassing the strainer.  It looks like a
coupling could be made up using part of one of the hose connectors.

Ron

On Sep 11, 2017 11:06 AM, "Joel Aronson"  wrote:

> Dennis, Exact same one and same failure point.  Left it closed, sailed
> near the dock and called BoatUS to get us in the slip.
>
> I didn't have a wooden plug large enough to block the hole and doubt a
> could have rigged a temporary replacement with the stuff on-board.
>
> Ron, Thanks.  I know!  Hopefully everyone will inspect theirs!
>
> Joel
>
> On Mon, Sep 11, 2017 at 10:58 AM, Ron Ricci 
> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>>
>>
>> You were lucky.  I think my sea strainer is above the waterline.
>> Regardless, I’m going to check it out.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> *Ron*
>>
>> Ron Ricci
>>
>> S/V Patriot
>>
>> C 37+
>>
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, September 11, 2017 10:25 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!
>>
>>
>>
>> Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled
>> 'there's a lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and
>> saw water coming out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was
>> reaching the top of it.
>>
>>
>>
>> I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was
>> below the floorboards we let the electric do its job.
>>
>>
>>
>> One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.
>> Luckily we were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive
>> corrosion on the strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been
>> detected.  Time to re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
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Re: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

You were lucky.  I think my sea strainer is above the waterline.  Regardless, 
I’m going to check it out. 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 11, 2017 10:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Perko sea strainer failed - almost lost my boat!

 

Yesterday as we were sailing back to the dock one of my crew yelled 'there's a 
lot of water down here'.  I opened the companionway steps and saw water coming 
out of the top of the sea strainer as the water was reaching the top of it.

 

I closed the seacock and we manned the manual pump.  Once the water was below 
the floorboards we let the electric do its job.

 

One of the arms that held the lid in place broke at the lower end.  Luckily we 
were aboard and found the leak.  There was not excessive corrosion on the 
strainer, so I don't think the weakness could have been detected.  Time to 
re-think leaving seacocks open when I'm off the boat!


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Marek,
After fueling, I hold hose vertical so fuel drains.  After waiting about 15
seconds, I coil hose about 8" diameter, wrap in absorbent towel and store
in Ziploc bag.
Ron

On Sep 9, 2017 7:35 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Ron,
> What do you do with the wet fuel hose after the transfer. There is always
> some diesel left in it.
>
> Marek
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

Your boat sailed by our mooring in Bristol last weekend.  It is a sharp looking 
boat.  Good luck with selling it to a (lucky) new owner.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale

 

Fellow C owners,

 

After sailing her for 4 years Saltaire, my 1984 C 35 MK3 is going up for 
sale. 

 

Since I've owned her I've added the following;

 

2014

Rod Rigging

Quantum Sails Main

Quantum Sails 135%

 

2015

Raymarine aSeries Chart Plotter, GPS and Depth

Raymarine i50 Speed

Raymarine i60 Wind instrument

NMEA2000 Network

Pressure hot and cold water

Bottom stripped, new barrier coat and paint

Transmission rebuilt

Port lights replaced

 

2016

145% North 3D Headsail

2 blade FlexFold prop

 

Next purchases would be new North racing main and new traveler cars.

 

Saltaire, located in Bristol RI sails beautifully and is very competitive at 
her cruising class rating of 149. There are 3 spinnakers that unfortunately 
I've not used but appear to be in very good condition. Asking price is $34K. If 
anyone on the list is interested please let me know.

 

Dave J

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Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I’d go 100% with Edson even if more expensive.  They are a quality and customer 
oriented company.

 

We’re fortunate to be close to Edson.  My wife needed help stitching on a 
replacement wheel cover.  They offered to have me bring the wheel to them and 
then demonstrated how to do it.  When I rebuilt my 37+’s steering, they had the 
details on my system including the designer of the boat.  I overheard, “Hey 
Rob, we have one of your boats”.  When I ordered a few small parts on line 
which cost less than the shipping, someone called me to say the order was no 
charge.  

 

Little things matter.  For example, the stainless steel steering cables are cut 
to length with a torch (similar to cutting line with a hot knife) so the ends 
don’t unwind.

 

There are very few businesses like Edson around anymore.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still 
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

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Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

These are helpful, we’re also planning a trip to Nova Scotia next month.  My 
crew signaled mutiny if I took our boat so it’s the ferry from Portland to 
Yarmouth.  I’m hoping the weather is good for putting the top down on my wife’s 
Mustang.

 

Ron  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2017 6:53 AM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

 

Marek - I happen to have a summer home in Shelburne NS, (since the 90s) and 
know the area quite well. To add to Dan's comments, there is lots to do on the 
low-key south shore.  Lunenburg, mahone bay, peggy's cove are the tourists' 
staples but also consider Keji seaside adjunct, some amazing beaches - Roseway, 
Carters, others,  Drive out to Cape Sable Island.   A bit of a hike but if you 
can go whale watching from Brier island (birthplace of Josh Slocum) you will 
likely have an amazing experience.   Also Shelburne is worth a day, check out 
the small museums, (incl some boatbuilding stuff) events at the Osprey Arts 
Centre and reserve for dinner at Charlotte lane.   Visiting the smaller towns 
gives you a more authentic sense of things - always take a moment to visit the 
fisherman's memorials, Check the dates, surnames, 1929 as an example - conveys 
how these communities were and are very integrated with the sea.Just 
driving the "old highway" will bring you to some spectacular places.   

 

Contact me off list if any questions.

 

Dave  33-2

 

 

 


-- Forwarded message --
From: John Irvin <  skis...@outlook.com>
To: "  cnc-list@cnc-list.com" < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Fri, 18 Aug 2017 19:34:56 +
Subject: Re: Stus-List Southern Nova Scotia

Don't miss Mahone Bay.

Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 18, 2017, at 1:32 PM, Dan via CnC-List <  
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Mahone Bay is a joy, but old town Lunenburg has lots of good food, shops, 
museums and history to check out. You will want to see "The Ovens" - look it up 
on google. It's not far from there and should not be missed. If you've got the 
time you could check out some local beaches or go into LaHave on the light 
house route. Airbnb has some really good deals around there worth checking out. 
Have Fun!!

 

Dan

C

Halifax NS

 

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 2:25 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi,

 

My wife and I are going on vacation to Nova Scotia (we will be just outside of 
Lunenburg) and I was wondering if any of the listers, who know the place quite 
well, could provide some inside knowledge (where to go, what to see, what to 
avoid etc.). If some of that involves sailboats or sailing, that would be a 
bonus. We are planning to visit the Bluenose II, but this is as far as I got 
with sailing-related activities.

 

Any ideas would be welcome.

 

Btw. we are not taking to boat to get there (I would have to retire or quit my 
job if I wanted to) (;-)

 

thanks

 

Marek

Ottawa, ON

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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Were these on your AC panel?  I have ones provided by Paneltronics on my DC
panel but have to check my AC breaker ratings.  The ratings for some are 32
VDC and others are 80  VDC/250 VAC.  They look similar to your panel in
appearance.  So far, no problems.  Typically circuit breaker is rated for
interrupt amps and voltage.  Grossly exceed the load for the voltage rating
and they may not open.  You system should have a backup fuse or circuit
breaker rated for the maximum short circuit load.

I hope this is too much information and would try replacing the faulty
breakers.


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2017 11:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: paul.h...@rogers.com
Subject: Stus-List Electrical panel

I have had 2 breaker switches in the panel malfunction in the same week.  I
don't know if they are original but I assume they are.  They are Airpax
Circuit Breaker UPG6-1-52-103-91. F.L10A. MAX 65VDC. DELAY 52.  They would
become intermittent and I would need to wiggle the toggle to make it work.
I bought 2 used replacements in the meantime but interested to know if you
would recommend new panels or chock it up to coincidence and leave it as-is.
I'll order another switch to keep on hand but looking for your thoughts.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bw4NOPYfe9OWNE1yeXBSWkZfb2M


Thanks,
Paul Hood
81 C - Refuge
Georgian Bay



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Re: Stus-List Water tank access - replacement threaded cap?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

Try http://www.beckson.com/twistdp.html.  You may want to check the size on 
your boat.  I ended up replacing the one in my holding tank.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 8, 2017 9:10 AM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Water tank access - replacement threaded cap?

 

Hello all,

 

After fixing our cracked water tank, I put the caps back on the inspection 
ports, and filled up all the tanks, checking for leaks.  One in particular 
leaks rather badly, and it turns out the lip on the cap is cracked, causing the 
o-ring to not make a very good seal.  These do not appear to be the same as 
typical deck inspection port.  

 

Anyone know where to get new ones?  

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+,  "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush
anti-freeze through the system.  I've considered installing a tee in the
line.  Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of
most any raw water strainer but it didn't look like there was enough
vertical clearance.  There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C 37+
with a Yanmar 3HM35F appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I
contacted Perko who indicated that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a
0593 model which has a flush valve and hose connection on the top.
Unfortunately, it looks like I'd need about $250 worth of parts to make this
work.  I've heard that a second cap for the strainer could be modified by
installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about $35.

 

I'm curious what other listers have done and if I'm right on the strainer
model #.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chris,

 

Josh is right on the money!  You want to make sure both supplies are protected. 
 My boat has a fuse between the pump and the battery for the automatic ‘always 
on’ and a circuit breaker for manual.  As part of my ritual when leaving the 
boat, I’ll lift the float switch to make sure it is clear and functions 
properly. 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, July 30, 2017 6:29 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring Bilge Direct to Battery

 

Consider wiring so that there are 2 "power supplys".  The float switch can 
start the pump directly from the battery and the manual switch can start it 
from the normal switch board supply.  This way the auto float switch will 
always work. 

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Jul 30, 2017 1:24 PM, "Chris Hobson via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Need to wire the bilge pump direct to the battery and bypass the distribution 
panel. Currently have to turn battery on for it to work. Simple enough, just 
not something I've done before. Has anyone wired this or know how to install a 
switch (3-way) to do so? No I'm not an electrician and yes I'm aware of the 
consequences of electricity.

Chris Hobson
s/v Going
1980 C 30 MK1
Hull #615
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Re: Stus-List mast gate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Try tomlu...@gmail.com or MastGates.com. I corresponded with him a couple
of years ago but never bought anything. - Ron

On Jul 21, 2017 3:25 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone
> to machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 1980 C 30 headliner removal + the notorious C smile

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Chris,
It is possible to perform an ultrasonic test on the keel bolts.  Cost I got
was about $1200.  Can try to dig up info if that would help you.
Ron

On Jul 16, 2017 2:15 PM, "Chris Hobson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Curious how involved removing the cabin headliner is on a 1980 C MK1
> would like to get access to replace/re-bed a bunch of things including the
> grab rails.
>
> Also, a common question I’m sure that gets asked a lot with C, but is
> it typical for most of this vintage to have the C “smile” at the keel?
> Obviously a good grounding would cause it. I’ve checked the keel bolts and
> they look good and clean with no signs of stress from inside the bilge, and
> no water. Will be hauling out soon for a closer look owner says it has the
> “usual smile." I’ve heard of owners who dropped the keel to check bolts for
> corrosion. I got rough estimates for this at around 4k. Pretty expensive
> price tag for some piece of mind.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Treating Monel water tanks

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

Here’s what I used for my ‘plastic’ tanks: 
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/thetford-fresh-water-tank-sanitizer-36662.  It 
is supposed to be non-corrosive.  

 

I’m curious how you got Monel tanks.  It is corrosion resistant but does 
corrode.  I have a 3” ball from a sea valve that has ¼” deep pits on the 
surface where it was exposed to salt water.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 3, 2017 2:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Treating Monel water tanks

 

All

 

Anything you can add to monel water tanks to keep them clean?

 

Joel 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List C 37/40+ holding tank

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Alan,

I made a rig to backflush the vent line.  It consist of a toilet plunger and
a 'poop' collector.  The plunger is one of those that can hold a good amount
of water.  Here's a link to one:
https://smile.amazon.com/G-T-Water-Products-Inc-MP100-3/dp/B0006IXNDW/ref=sr
_1_14?ie=UTF8=1498484557=8-14=toilet+plunger.  The 'poop'
collector is made up from an PVC pipe fittings and hose.  It is basically a
1-1/2" reducing busing with adapters to a piece of 1/2" hose.  

If my tank vent clogs I can backflush the vent line.  First, pump the
holding tank as dry as possible.  Flushing air through the toilet helps.
Then hook up the 'poop' collector to your holding tank pumpout connection.
Route the hose to a bucket.  Take the plunger and fill it with clean water.
Hold the plunger against the tank vent where it penetrates the hull.
Depress the plunger to force water into the tank vent.  You may have to
repeat this several times.  Take a shop vacuum or your dinghy air pump and
pump air back into the vent line.  This will force any water out the vent
line.  You will notice dirty water in the 'poop' collector bucket.

You should be able to flush your vent line without disconnecting the vent
hose (very messy) and without pressuring the holding tank.  If you do have
to access the tank, here's a link to photos of my boat:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YpgwQQIwkCopkxqSt.  The access hole on my
tank leaked so I replaced the cover and re-bed it with butyl rubber.  This
eliminated foul odor.

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Liles via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2017 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alan Liles
Subject: Stus-List C 37/40+ holding tank

Has anyone on the list had to access their holding tank? My vent is plugged
and I need to access at least one end. There is a small access port in the
top of one of the vanity cupboards but that seems fairly useless as I can't
see much in there and my hands don't really fit. To get to the tank top it
looks like the sink and vanity top have to be removed which also involves
the shower plexiglass and support. Any ideas before I disassemble my entire
head?

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C/40+
Vancouver 


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Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I have Raymarine instrumentation and added their autopilot.  The system works 
extremely well.  The locked heading mode keeps the boat on course within a 
degree or two while barely moving the rudder.  Wind vane mode gives similar 
performance.  Auto tach is better than most helmsmen.  Your old ram should be 
fine.  The key to the system is their control algorithm and use of 9 (I think) 
inputs from the boat’s instrumentation.  The P70R interface is easy to use.  I 
can control most of the AP from my E125 but need the P70R to use wind vane and 
auto tach.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

   

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 9:17 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

 

Hello all,

 

I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired 
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh well, 
something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've been 
pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!

 

So, I have a couple questions:

 

1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?

 

2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well?

 

3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?  

 

Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn another 
language.  

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madiera Beach, FL 

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List C 40 bolts

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Peter,

I just had my keel bolts torqued by my yard.  Haven't got the invoice yet.
Some of them required 600 ft-lbs.  For that, it took two guys even with a
torque multiplier.  All nuts and washers were removed and bolt threads were
cleaned.  Some nuts required heat and impact tool to remove.  Old 5200 under
washers was removed and re-bedded.  (Kind of wish I had told them to use
butyl rubber.)  I have 8 bolts including two under mast step.  

If I get a bill for 8 hours for 8 bolts, given my circumstances, I'd be as
happy as one could be.  I thought of doing this project myself and had some
great guidance from other listers but ran out of time.

Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PETER
OCAMPO via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 8:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: PETER OCAMPO
Subject: Stus-List C 40 bolts

Hi guys

Before I speak to the yard. About charging me 5 hours to torque my 5 bolts
3 large at 450ft/lbs that I fully exposed i.e. Moved wires removed cabin
table and covers  cleared water from bildge 

just wondering what the avg time charged  or if it takes multiple guys to do
this job

Peter
Goonie island C 40 1983 aft cabin 

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Hydraulic Hoses - C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I had a rigger replace the two hydraulic hoses for the Navtec backstays.  The 
shop he used seems pretty expensive.  Is there anything special about the 
hoses?  What have others paid for these hoses?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List How to wire propane detector

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruno,

 

My boat came with an installed propane sensor which did not work and a
solenoid.  The circuit is fed from its’ own breaker.  I ended up replacing
the sensor with a Fireboy Xintex.  See:
http://www.fireboy-xintex.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/S-1A-Manual.pdf for
wiring instructions.  The sensor is mounted under the stove.  I hope this
helps.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 10:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List How to wire propane detector

 

 

Hi, 

 

I want to install a propane detector and i wanted to ask the list how to do
it properly. Does it have to be wired to the battery like a bilge pump or i
can wire it to the solenoid switch ? 

 

Is there a safety code that appplies ?

 

i plan to install it as low as possible near the stove.

 

Thanks.

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 1987 C 33 mkII

New-Richmond, Qc.

 

 

 

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Stus-List Keel Bolt Inspection

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Thanks to the help from other owners, I had the correct information to
properly torque the keel bolts.  I ended up having my boatyard do the work
which was probably a good thing as it was a lot of work to remove the nuts
and took more tools than I could borrow.  They ended up removing all nuts
and washers.

 

Corrosion was present on the nuts and washers.  The boatyard asked me if I'd
like the bolts inspected by someone they'll bring in.  I've asked what is
done but think the do some kind of non-destructive testing such as metal
particle.  This test is not inexpensive.  

 

Here's a link to some photos:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YpQkMDs5DeOkS73p2.  They show the nuts and
washers.  Also shown is a void near the forward bolt which wept water. There
were are some rust stains visible on the keel.  The aft most bolt 'wiggles'
and I can see a very small crack on the aft-starboard side of the keel.
There is also a 'blister' on the starboard side of the keel.  No water leaks
in from the keel or out when on the hard.  Other than the minor crack, there
is no C smile.  


I don't want to be paranoid but also don't want to do a barrel roll under
full sail.  Maybe other owners have some thoughts on this topic.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

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Stus-List C 37/40+ Used Kevlar Main www.TheBoatList.org

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Hi all,

 

We wimped out this year and added a furling boom and consequently have a couple 
of extra sails.  If anyone is looking for a used Kevlar Main see: 
http://theboatlist.org/awpcp/5-2/23/kevlar-mainsail/massachusetts/usa/sails.  
There is also a Dacron main with a Dutchman system that is free with the Kevlar 
sail.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 37/40+ What does small switch on ceiling do?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Fellow 37/40+ owners,

I feel left out!  Patriot has no such switch.  I have a combo
steaming/foredeck light, Windex and anchor light on the mast.  All are
controlled by breakers on my DC panel.

This year, I'm replacing my anchor light with a combination tri-color/anchor
light and eliminating the Windex light.  The existing switch for the Windex
will be used for the tri-color, expecting that the aft white portion of the
tri-color will illuminate the Windex.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2017 9:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List 37/40+ What does small switch on ceiling do?

Hello all!

I'm guessing Josh or one of you other brilliant folks with 37/40+ C will
be able to guide me.  There is a small switch above the table near the
forward bulkhead.  I can't seem to figure out what it does.  Presumably it
is for an overhead light, but I don't see anything that isn't already
controlled by a switch, and the switch doesn't seem to do anything.

Insights please?

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

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Re: Stus-List Water Stained Floor Board

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Rob,

The cedar ceiling around one of our chimneys became water stained.  Every
one gave me advice ranging from oxalic acid to 40 grit paper.  A 50-50
solution of white vinegar and water did the trick.  I used a spray bottle
and got the wood good and soaked.  This did the trick and it is hard to tell
there was any staining or corrective action.  Fixing the chimney leak was
more challenging.

Good luck,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 26, 2017 9:12 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Water Stained Floor Board

My floor boards are the usual teak and holy veneered.   Some years back 
I painted the bottoms and sides with resin.  However I forgot/missed one
side on one floor board and of course, water got in and dark stained an
approx. 1 square foot section.

I presume I have two options to deal with the darkened section, 1) replace
the floor board, or 2) live with it.

Question: is there a 3rd option I am not aware of?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List C 37+ Keel Bolt Torqueing & Rust Stains

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

A few months ago, there was a discussion of rust stains and weeps of water 
appearing on the keel.  My first thought had been that water from the bilge 
leaked around the keel bolts when the boat is on the hard.  I had the boatyard 
do some exploration.  They found a void in the keel that apparently filled with 
water.  The void appeared threaded and may have been used to lift the keel.  
This all can be seen at: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YpQkMDs5DeOkS73p2.  
Continued inspection found that there was no water leaking down from the bilge. 
 

 

While my boat is out of the water with the mast out, I’m going to torque the 
keel bolts.  The C website lists torque values for ½” (80 ft-lbs), ¾” (250 
ft-lbs) and 1” (350 ft-lbs).  The 37+ may have another larger size bolt.  I 
don’t know where these came from but found something similar attributed to an 
employee of Mars Metal (keel manufacturer?).  Can any other owners confirm a 
few things?

 

1. What are the torque values that you’ve used?

2. Did you back off the nuts and lubricate?

3. If so, what did you use for lubrication?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Jerry,

Have you considered a Winchrite powered handle?  I have used one to raise
and then furl the main on a Beneteau 47 which had a Leisure Furl Coastal
Plus furling boom.  It worked fine and I was told it had enough capacity to
do this again without recharging.

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 22, 2017 5:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Stus-List Electric Powering Barient ST Winch

Has anyone converted an ST Barient winch to electric power. Any ideas on
whether it can be done beneath winch?  I would like to motorize my halyard
winch.   New electric winches are astronomically priced.  Jerry J

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Stus-List Signet Marine Electronics Components - www.BoatList.org

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Hi all,

 

If anyone is looking for Signet Marine electronics components please check out: 
http://theboatlist.org/awpcp/5-2/21/signet-marine-electronics-components/harvard/ma/usa/electronics-navigation-radar.
  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Pete,

 

I rewired my mast several years ago.  Since my lights are all LED's, the
current draw is very low and #18 is fine.  I used Alpha 1897C SL005 where I
needed two conductors (such as Windex light) and Alpha 1898C 3C for three
conductors (such as foredeck/steaming light).  These cables are PVC jacketed
and have tinned copper conductors.  To me having cables is better than
individual conductors and these cables are smaller than multiple conductor
boat cable.

 

If you have a rat's nest of wires, I'd consider pulling everything out.  If
possible leave a wire for a messenger or get a snake.

 

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly
petew via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 5:02 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: kelly petew
Subject: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice

 

Hello Listers, 

First, some background --

Earlier this year, I had the mast extracted from Siren Song, my 30-2.  The
rigger has completed his work, replacing the rod rigging and fittings, and
rebuilding my Harken furler.  

Also, I just finished painting the mast and spreaders with a one-part paint.

 

Now, I want to rewire the mast.  Preparatory to the extraction, I labeled
the wires, marked fittings and blocks, and took MANY pics on my tablet.  

I have removed the old VHF cabling, but I was unsuccessful in replacing it
with LMR-400 [.405" dia.].  For other 30-2 owners, I found [the hard way]
that it was too stiff and too big to fit.  I could only get it about 40%
down the mast before it became hopelessly stucked.  Therefore, I have
removed it, and re-ordered original type of cabling [rg-8x, .25" diameter].


I was hoping to get the enhance performance from the lmr cabling, but it
won't happen, unfortunately.  I will replace the vhf antenna.  

 

Now, I'm planning to replace electrical wires as well as light fixtures.  

In doing a preliminary inspection, I found a "rat's nest" of wiring just
below the mast's exit hole, which lines up with the underside of the deck
when the mast is in the boat.  It looks as though excess wiring was simply
pushed DOWN into the mast, and over time sagged further down [but still
beyond arm's length from mast's bottom].  

 

Any "tips and tricks", including the best tools to use for re-wiring the
electricals will be greatly appreciated, i.e., extracting the old stuff and
installing the new.  

 

Fair Winds,

 

Pete W.

Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.

 

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Stus-List Spreader Halyards - 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I'm planning to put spreader halyards on Patriot primarily for a radar
reflector.  My thought is to put one block a few inches in from the shrouds
and another about 12" in from the first block.  Does anyone have any
guidance or photos they can share?  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine compartment insulation?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I did my 37+ several years ago using square tiles I bought from: 
https://www.sailorssolutions.com/?page=Products 

 =121=Soundproofing=Engine%20Room.  The 
perimeter of the removable panels was faced with closed 3/8” and 3/4” thick 
cell vinyl nitrile tape from: 
https://www.can-dotape.com/product-category/products/foam-tapes/vinyl-nitrile-foam-tapes/.
  This provided a good seating surface for the access doors.  

 

I’ll try to get some photos next time I go to the boat.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 6, 2017 10:44 AM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Engine compartment insulation?

 

Hello all,

 

Our 1994 C 37/40+ engine insulation is dropping bits of black dust 
everywhere!  As a result, I want to replace it.  What do you folks recommend, 
and are there any hints to replacing it?

 

Thanks! 

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I am impressed with your video and may copy some of your mods next season.  
Where is your seawater strainer?  My Racor is in the same location as yours but 
my seawater strainer is above and slightly forward of it.  The seawater lines 
run from the inlet valve to the strainer and back to the raw water pump along 
the port bilge.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 11:42 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

I hated how much fuel needed to be vented off my racor 200FG and it still never 
seemed to be completely vented.  The original vent was just a knurled knob on 
the outlet sife fitting.  It wasn't even at the highest point of the filter 
housing and didn't allow catching the vented fuel.  I started thinking about 
how to maybe get a higher vent point.  First I drilled and tapped a hole in the 
top of the housing and put a typical brake bleed type of fitting.  It worked 
but necessitated using small tubing to direct the vented fuel into a bottle.  
It wasn't until I performed this mod that I realized just how much fuel needed 
to be vented in order to flush all the air out of the filter.  I was usually 
looking at about 1 gallon of fuel just to get all the air out.

 

I started thinking about how to direct that vented fuel back to the tank.  I 
was going to run a return fuel line when it occurred to me that the engine 
already has a return fuel line from the injectors.  I changed the bleeder valve 
to a t-handle valve.  Then I inserted a tee fitting and t-handled valve in the 
return fuel hose.  Then I connected the 2 t-handled valves with some clear 
tubing.

 

The 2 t-handled valves isolate the vent tubing during normal operation and 
maintain the integrity of the original components.  When venting, both 
t-handled valves are openwd to create a flow path back to the tank.  You can 
watch the air bubbles in the clear tubing disapate as the vent continues.

 

See my video at about 2:10 minutes.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m12s

 

These engines take a 2 micron engine filter and I run a 2 micron racor. The 
racor is now easier to change and bleed so I prefer it to clog first.  I also 
show a vacuum gage which I installed on my racor in the video.  A new racor 
filter has shown to have very low vacuum so whenever it starts to creep up I 
change it...hasn't happened yet.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Shower Sump

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Kevin,

 

This pump looks like it has more features than really needed with the automatic 
feature.  This one does seem to be a diaphragm pump type which can self-prime 
and suck air (run dry).  I’d consider just a basic pump with a manual switch.  
We have a switch in the shower and turn the pump on when using the shower.  
Less stuff to go wrong.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Stus-List Shower Sump

 

Hey everyone,

I'm having trouble finding a decent solution for the shower sump in our 34. The 
pump died on me last year and I'm trying to find a replacement system that 
makes sense. I'm intrigued by the Whale Gulper IC system but I don't know if I 
can put the sensor or even a drain into the bottom pan. Currently it has a 
bronze round strainer that sucks the water up through a hose that lies on the 
bottom of the pan and through the base of the sink cabinet. I don't recall 
seeing a check valve to prevent water from going back into the pan either.

 

This is the system I was looking at. 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234226|2234234 
 
=1612525

 

What have you all done for sump solutions? Does anyone know what kind of 
clearance there is between the base of the pan and the hull? Could something 
like the IC drain system work in that area?

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin Paxton

'82 34 #473

Japhys Spirit

Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

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Re: Stus-List Paint

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I have used Valspar Floor & Porch enamel, latex & satin finish.  I had it
custom mixed to match the existing light beige color.  Not elegant but no
fumes and so far it has held up for about a year.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bruce via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2017 4:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bruce
Subject: Stus-List Paint

 

Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers,
and other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.

 

 

Bruce

C 27 Mk III

Asterie 

Montreal, Quebec

 

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Re: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Peter,

 

I used to have a Signet depth sounder on my 37+.  The transducer was located 
just aft of the forward cabin bulkhead on the port side.  There was also a 
speed sensor right next to it.  My guess is there is something on one side of 
the forward part of the keel.

 

Do many other listers still use Signet Marine equipment?  I have all sorts of 
stuff I’ve been meaning to put on Ebay.   

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2017 8:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schu...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Signet Depth Sounder Location on a C Landfall 38

 

I just hauled my boat out and had the bottom painted.  I asked the person 
providing the service to make sure that the Transducer was clear of paint and 
also if they could tell me the location.  The painter could not locate the 
transducer.  For the life of me I have not been able to find out where the 
transducer is located.  It is a Signet brand depth sounder and it came that way 
installed by the factory (I assume).  Maybe its not a through the hull 
transducer I don’t know.

 

If anyone has a similar set up or knows the location please let me email me.  
The depth sounder works intermittently and I would like to find out why.  I 
have not followed the wiring (grey) because there are a number of grey wires 
bundled together and tied with plastic ties.  I may have to do this sooner or 
later.

 

Thank you

Peter

 

Sent from Mail   for Windows 10

 

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Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

See: 
https://www.edmunds.com/car-reviews/features/emissions-test-car-vs-truck-vs-leaf-blower.html
  The 2-cycle engines produce do more pollution that a Ford F-150 Raptor.  If 
you want to be green, buy the Raptor.  Good luck on blowing your leaves.  Of 
course, one probably uses a leaf-blower a few hours a year versus a vehicle a 
few hours a day.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2017 8:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hidea Outboard Motor

 

There was a discussion on NPR last week about how 2 cycle leaf blowers produce 
more pollution in California than all the cars!

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

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Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ head sanitation hose vented loop

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

You probably have a vented loop above the hull valves under the sink.  See a 
couple of photos from my boat: 
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YpA6iE5rK2Qye1-_N.  Its’ purpose is to break the 
siphon from the head discharge back to the head when the system is lined up for 
direct discharge overboard.  Your hull discharge valve should be locked shut 
and the “Y” should be locked so the head discharges to the holding tank.

 

The backflow in your head is most likely caused by the joker valve leaking 
fluid from the line to the “Y” valve (and subsequently the holding tank) back 
into the head.  I’ve had issue with the holding tank vent line being clogged so 
pressure built up inside the holding tank which exacerbated the problem.  To 
clear the vent line, I ended up pumping the holding tank while back flushing 
the vent line.  

 

Hope this helps,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 6, 2017 9:53 PM
To: CC List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ head sanitation hose vented loop

 

Hello all,

 

Perhaps those of you with a 37/40+ can provide some guidance.  The surveyor 
suggested adding a vented loop to the waste hose leading from the head to the 
through-hull.  This makes sense to me.  However, in looking at the hose, it 
seems to lead from the through-hull under the sink, way up, probably behind the 
mirror/medicine cabinet assembly, and then back down to the y-valve leading to 
the head.  I'm guessing that vented loops were standard back in '94, so there 
may be one up where I cannot see the top of the loop.  I'm also a bit concerned 
about getting very stiff hose to actually attach well to the vented loop.  

 

The head tends to backfill waste up about 1/3 of the way, especially if it is 
not vigorously pumped and the handle locked down.  It is a Jabsco.  I am happy 
to replace the joker valve simply to be proactive.  If, however there is a need 
for a vented loop to prevent backfilling, I'd like to put one in.  The question 
is, how would I get to the top bend of the sanitation hose?

 

Thanks in advance!!!

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bob,

 

I have a Lehr 2.5 HP on a West Marine 10’-4” with inflatable bottom.  The 
combination won’t set a speed record but works fine for me.  The light weight 
(~37 lbs.) makes it easy to lift off the dinghy for storing on the stern rail.  
I tow the dinghy.  If you purchase the boat and motor together and don’t pay 
sales tax at time of purchase, there is no sales tax due to RI when you 
register it.   

 

The cylinder should be removed when not in use but I never had a problem 
leaving it on for short periods.  I do pull it off when stored on the stern 
rail or at the dinghy dock in Bristol.  The partially full cylinder can be put 
in your propane locker.  

 

There is no way to easily measure propane level.  I found that just before 
running out, the engine starts slowing down while at full throttle.  Usually, 
I’ll throttle back, make sure I’m in a safe location and let the cylinder 
empty.  The cylinders are interchangeable with my Magma grille.  I bought an 
adaptor so the cylinder can be used with as a backup for the galley range.

 

The engine starts and runs fine.  The paint job leaves something to be desired. 
 There are spots on the skeg  and propeller where the paint has blistered.  
Overall, I’m glad I bought the Lehr and would do it again.  No gasoline and 
winterizing the carburetor involves removing the cylinder.

 

Ron

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
McLaughlin via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 1, 2017 5:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob McLaughlin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Input on inflatable dinghy purchase

 

Thanks Danny.  I've not really looked at motors yet but have seen the 
information on the Lehr propane models and was intrigued by their light weight, 
no need for gas/oil etc.  Can you share any more details on your experience 
with it?  How long have you had it?  Can you pull off the propane tank when its 
half empty and does that then allow you to stow it in a locker below or does it 
still have propane in the engine somewhere, lurking to escape into your bilge?

 

Bob

 

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Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Neil,

 

The GFCI works by measuring the difference in current between the hot (black) 
and neutral (white) wire.  A small difference in the current (4-6 ma) which is 
due to leakage will cause the GFCI to open. 

 

Ron 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Andersen via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2017 3:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Neil Andersen
Subject: Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets

 

Is it because there isn't always a good reference ground for the circuit to 
work properly?

Sent from my iPhone





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Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Alex,

Technically the outlets are not in parallel.  The first outlet is connected
to the incoming line using terminals marked "LINE".  The second outlet is
wired to the terminals marked "LOAD".  Subsequent outlets are wired in
parallel with the second outlet.  When the "TEST" button is pushed on the
GFCI outlet, you should hear a click and all outlets on the circuit should
be dead.  If wired incorrectly, the GFCI will only kill the first (itself)
outlet and others will still be live.  

Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI


   

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Alex
Giannelia via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 7:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Alex Giannelia
Subject: Stus-List GFCI outlets

So after reading all the responses, I am left with one question:

If you  have for example 3 outlets in parallel and one of them is GFCI, why
does it have to be the "first in line" to your incoming shore feed? Or does
it matter?

Thanks,


Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
(416) 203-9858




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Re: Stus-List Battery test

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

If you used a resistor, you’d need 0.6 ohms at least 240 watts.  Probably not 
practical.  You could put a load on your batteries by turning on most of your 
lights, cabin fans and other loads.  

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 7, 2017 11:32 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery test

 

I have been following this discussion and would like to do this for my 
batteries.  Can you suggest what would be an easy/appropriate ~20A load 
generating device?  Dave

 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

cid:image001.png@01D28138.02844420





On Feb 7, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Easy cheap way.
If you have accurate volt and amp meters,  a 20 amp (or near enough) load 
applied for enough time to drain the batteries 50%*. You should see 12.2 for 
wet cells and 12.3 or so for gel/agm.
Light loads like 1-5 amps and heavy loads like 50-100 amps both will be 
inaccurate because of Peukert’s law. This law deals with the fact that  a 100 
AH battery can supply 100 amps for 1 hour or 1 amp for 100 hours in theory, but 
in practice 1 amp will last longer than 100 hours and 100 amps won’t make the 
full hour. 20 amps is a good value for these tests.
 
* (AH capacity of batteries/load in amps) /2 = time in hours for 50% discharge

 

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Re: Stus-List Deceitful USCG Documentation Renewal Company

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

The whole Vessel Documentation process is a total mess.  When I first purchased 
Patriot it took months to get a COD in my name.  The website had a place that 
actually showed how many months they were behind in getting out paperwork.  At 
least then it was free.  Now for $26.00 you get a renewal application in the 
mail to sign.  It tell you to pay the $26.  I signed the renewal , addressed 
the envelope and started writing a note to my wife asking for a check.  There 
was nothing on the form to indicating who to make the check out to.  I went on 
line, started typing “National Vessel Documentation Center” in the Google 
search box.  After getting half way through the second word, Google completed 
all four words.  The first  listed entity was the ‘scam’ website.  I found the 
USCG.mil website and payed on line.  It did not appear that this actually 
renewed my COD so I emailed the renewal and payment info.  Maybe this could be 
sub-contracted out to Amazon, UPS or FedEx.  They can handle stuff like this.  
A simple email reminder and online renewal is achievable!

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Engine Stop Cable - C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I like the idea of the solenoid.  As far as using the re-purposed cable for 
pre-lube, I’d be concerned about pumping raw water in to the exhaust manifold.  
There would not be any exhaust manifold pressure while pumping raw water.  
Maybe I’m paranoid?

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 4:14 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Stop Cable - C 37+

 

Hey Ron, 

 

You might want to consider eliminating the pull to stop cable all together.  
You can see the the "engine stop solenoid" which the background of my video.  
The PO installed this and I love it.  I'm thinking of re-purposing the pull 
cable as a "pull to decompress".  It would then serve 2 purposes - pre start 
decompression/pre-lube, and emergency shutdown.

 

https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

On Jan 26, 2017 10:47 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

The shaft on the knob end of the engine stop cable for my Yanmar 3HM35F has 
rusted so badly that the cable sticks.  The inner part of the original cable 
appeared to be solid stainless steel wire.  The replacement cable inner part is 
stranded and apparently not stainless steel.  It was easily attracted to a 
magnet.   

 

I’m looking for an alternative all stainless replacement.  So far, I struck out 
with Teleflex/Morse.  Does anyone have any recommendations.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

 


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Stus-List Engine Stop Cable - C 37+

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

The shaft on the knob end of the engine stop cable for my Yanmar 3HM35F has 
rusted so badly that the cable sticks.  The inner part of the original cable 
appeared to be solid stainless steel wire.  The replacement cable inner part is 
stranded and apparently not stainless steel.  It was easily attracted to a 
magnet.   

 

I’m looking for an alternative all stainless replacement.  So far, I struck out 
with Teleflex/Morse.  Does anyone have any recommendations.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Plumbing

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

First, I’m curious why you have to replace your tubing and how much of a pain 
in the neck it replacement will be.  It seems that access, especially to the 
shower, will be challenging.  Good luck.

 

I did some work on my freshwater system and re-used most of the existing 
tubing.  McMaster-Carr had a good selection of fittings.  I used polypropylene 
fittings and hose rated for drinking water.  The only thing I couldn’t find was 
a good manifold to split out the various lines going to the head, galley sink 
and forward cabin.  As such, there are a whole bunch of tees located near the 
pump (under the starboard settee).  I replaced the drinking water filter at the 
galley sink with a standard 10” NSF rated filter that removes all sorts of bad 
stuff.  The filters and cartridge housing are available on-line.  

 

If I had to do things over and could come up with a good manifold, I’d run a 
single discharge line from the pump to under the galley sink and put the filter 
between the pump and accumulator.  This would filter all the boat’s water.  I 
also made up a rig with a filter and housing that I use when filling the boat’s 
tanks.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Prop won't come off

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Explosives!  A few feet of Primacord makes it easy.  That what they used to get 
the screw off a submarine.  Good luck! 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 11:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Prop won't come off

 

Help!  Tried PB blaster, torch and prop puller   With some no so gentle 
tapping. It won't budge. 

 

Suggestions?

 

Joel 

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Re: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Mark,

I am extremely pleased with my 1991 37+.  It is responsive and very quick.
Here are a few things I've encountered. 

The rod rigging requires periodic inspection and re-heading.  Navtec
recommended re-heading the rods and replacing the turnbuckles every 10
years.  Probably much of that is CYA.  They also recommended replacing the
rod rigging after 20.  Mine was re-headed and turnbuckles replaced at 20
years.  All inspections were OK at that time and I did not replace the rod
rigging.  Full rig inspection requires pulling the mast.  

My 'roof' leaked from the beginning.  I re-bedded the baby stay track and a
few other things with Butyl rubber.  The baby stay track which is subject to
being pulled away from the deck accounted for most of the leaks.

The stamped plate that holds the idler pulleys for the steering is made of
carbon steel.  Mine rusted so badly the pulleys came loose and the steering
cable fell off.  I got one of the last parts Edson had in stock.  You may
want to inspect under the pedestal for evidence of rust.  I'd call Edson and
ask for a 776-4 idler.  They may have to make more parts if you have to
order one.  The newer S/S part is different.

My holding tank is plastic and the hand hole passed gas.  I got many
complaints from my wife.  Once I figured out how to take everything apart,
it was easy to replace & re-bed the hand hole.  I also replaced the shower
valve.  If you need, I have pictures.

Thanks to Gary Russell being the lead, I added an autopilot.  It's like
having another crew member which we refer to as the German guy, Otto, as in
Ottomatic.

Good luck,

Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
  

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark via
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 4, 2016 6:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark
Subject: Stus-List Looking at C 37/40+ CB as next boat

I am looking at a 1993 C 37/40+ CB model as our next boat. My first big
boat was a 1974 C 27 which I had to 12 years, then upgraded to a
1975 C 35 MKII in 1992. After 25 years (come February) on the best boat
ever built, I'm looking to upgrade to something a little more cruising, but
with C performance. Given that requirement, it seems reasonable that I
should stick with C

I've read through the all the email lists concerning the C 37+ and most
everything looks positive. The boat I'm looking at is listed in Marco Island
and immediately needs hatches and windows. I looked at it over the
Thanksgiving holidays, and other that those issues, it seems quite basic;
doesn't appear to have been raced hard (i.e. no spin hardware & Dacron
sails) and not much in cruising upgrades (i.e. needs windless, davits,
etc.). Could be a good platform to start with.

For you C 37/40+ owners out there, is there any thing I should pay close
attention to other than engine condition & standing rigging condition that
could bite me.

Thanks,
Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'75 C MKII "The Edge"
Surf City, NC


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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

You are way ahead of me.  It looks like you have a right angle adapter for the 
oil pressure switch.  My switch screws right into the engine so may have to 
install an adapter so everything clears the alternator belt.

 

Did you use Teflon tape on the joints?  I didn’t because it seems the tape 
would isolate the switch from engine ground.  We’ll see how that works when I 
start my engine next spring.

 

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2016 8:18 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yV05RZGZDMnRhNm8

 

On Nov 9, 2016 8:17 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

Ron, 

I got the Tee fitting today and test fitted it.  No oil leaked out when I 
removed the pressure switch.  The fitting is exactly what I needed and properly 
crafted out of stainless steel.

Thanks for the lead!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

Good point on the vibration.  I replaced the oil pressure switch and no oil 
leaked out of the port.  The replacement (Yanmar #124060-39452) switch is a 
little smaller than the original.  

 

I’m still thinking about adding a pressure sending unit and weighing the risk 
of tee failure.  Here’s one tee that I found: 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-Tee-to-NPT-Adapter-Turbo-Lexus-Toyota-Subaru-Mazda-/351867602261

 

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 9:43 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

 

I am concerned about connecting a gauge directly to the engine for fear that 
the vibration could cause a catastrophic failure of the gauge or connection and 
a loss of oil pressure.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

First, I checked out Mike's link and Persistence is a sharp looking boat.
I'm partial to the color as Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot stripe
and gold cove stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft resulting
in multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the strut and replace the shaft.

 

I've been considering adding a the ability to read oil pressure by adding
the appropriate transducer and NMEA 2000 interface.  To me, the existing
pressure switch setup is not necessarily 'fail-safe'.  Probably the most
difficult thing will be to find an appropriate tee (Japanese threads).  I
wonder if any other lister has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?

 

Thanks to all listers for your feedback,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

 

Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know what the pressure
really is.  The alarm is like the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds
there is likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is
good.  I once had a car where the bulb for the engine light was burned out.

 

To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil pressure sender.  Then
you Tee that and put sender on one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in
doubt you just take a quick look at the gauge.

 

I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence website.   You can
see the picture in the gallery link here
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

 

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Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I just changed my 3HM35F's oil and shortly after noticed that the oil
pressure switch is bad.  Sometimes it 'sticks' open indicating the oil
pressure is OK.  I've ordered a new switch.

 

When the old switch is removed, will oil leak out?  I can't figure out if
the oil level in the engine is above the port for the switch.  

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Inverter to Outlet Via Extension Cord?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

David,

I've followed some of this thread and have a few concerns where some have
mentioned using an inexpensive inverter.  

Using an inverter that is not intended for marine use or not properly
grounded can cause problems.  An inverter can produce short duration spikes
which exceed the insulation rating of most wires.  This becomes an issue in
wet areas and will cause insulation failure.  

There are other issues relating to inducing corrosion.  A friend who
coincidentally keeps his boat in RI and is the technical support guru for a
company that sells variable frequency drives (inverters for AC motors) had
to replace his propellers when he used an inverter he bought from Harbor
Freight.  It was probably fine for anything other than marine use. 

If the neutral on the inverter is not grounded, the neutral can kill you
regardless of the presence of a GFCI.  

Just my thoughts,

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI



 

 David via CnC-List  wrote: 
We have minimal inverter needs and would like to wire the 1000w inverter
directly to a dedicated outlet.  It does not have power outputs but two
receptacles for plugs.


I believe I can wire an extension cord to a outlet (assuming adequately
rated and quality components), but I would like to know of any pitfalls that
others may have found.


Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)



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Re: Stus-List Main sheet chafes

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Brian,

 

My 1991 37+ looks the same.  The fine trim jams the mainsheet into the slot 
that is screwed into the boom.  I haven’t noticed any chafing but I don’t use 
the fine trim.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian Fry 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 8, 2016 9:17 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brian Fry
Subject: Stus-List Main sheet chafes

 

I believe I posted about this before but I have some more info. 
I have a 37/40xl. 1993.
Where the mainsheet enters the boom there is chafing. It appears to be 
happening because of the angle going into the sheave block that is screwed into 
the boom.
As far as I know there are no modifications to the boom or traveler. Can anyone 
show what theirs looks like?
A link to pictures:
https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1360331584029782 

 =1011224262273851

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Re: Stus-List engine compartment insulation

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Danny,

I used about eighteen 12" x 12" x 1-1/8" square tiles I bought from Sailor
Solutions. See:
http://www.sailorssolutions.com/index.asp?page=ProductDetails=SPM01.
The engine access panels seat against the engine compartment frame using
3/8"x2" or 3/4"x2" closed cell vinyl nitrile tape.   

The tiles were easy to work with and after 5 years, I'm still happy with the
results.

Regards,

Ron

S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 3, 2016 1:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List engine compartment insulation

Hello all,

I was wondering if anyone had any advice on engine compartment insulation.
The foam backed reflective stuff on my T40 was basically disintegrating.  I
cleaned most of it out with a scraper and a shop 
vac.  Have any of you dealt with this?   What should i put in its 
place?  seems it will be a more tedious job than difficult.


--
Danny
T40
Rum Runner IV
Mattapoisett, MA


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Re: Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Wow!  My boat had this but nowhere near as pronounced.  It shows itself as a 
pink “ooze” coming out of a couple of minor blisters below the keel-hull joint. 
 I have been putting about 3 gallons of antifreeze in the bilge each winter to 
prevent any water that gets in the bilge from freezing, hence the pink color.  
Hopefully adding the antifreeze has prevented the problem from getting worse.  

 

I do intend to undo the keel bolt nuts, seal around the keel bolts with butyl 
rubber and torque the bolts.  Anyone have any thoughts on this?

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2016 9:10 AM
To: C Stus List
Cc: Dave S
Subject: Stus-List Freeze/thaw issues in lead keels

 

Good morning all.  Several weeks back there was a discussion surrounding issues 
with bulging keel castings in colder climates.   Been meaning to post some 
photos I took awhile back, here they are:

 

 

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/

 

 

Dave 33-2 Windstar

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Robert,

 

Your description below of the requirement is 100% correct while you are a
sailing vessel.  Turn on your engine, you become a power vessel and the
steaming light is required.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2016 9:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

 

Appears my 'electrical question' veered off into another discussion on
'navigation lights'my fault when I said I was told by a fellow club
member that my 'masthead/steaming light' was not a legal requirement for my
boat.  I took the following quote from the West Marine site supplied my
Marek:

"Sailing vessels less than 20m in length need to show sidelights and a stern
light. These may be combined into a bicolor light and stern light, or a
single tricolor light at the top of the mast."

My boat is "less than 20m in length".

Whether the fixture is a legal requirement or not, I am going to replace it
with one similar because I want the 'foredeck light', but if it is indeed a
legal requirement, I want to comply as well.

So back to the beginning, the fixture I saw at the Binnacle looks very much
the same as the existing one..I like this as I would not have to drill
new holes to attach but if I have to, so be it.

The new fixture only has one wire to attach whereas mine appears to have
three (not exactly sure as I have not yet removed it from the mast although
there are three existing the base of the mast) and I have no idea how to
connect it.

There must be a logical way to connect it?

Rob



On 2016-09-12 2:02 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

 

As Frederick said, whoever told you that was mistaken. 

 

This illustrates what you have to show:

http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Navigation-Light-Rules (scroll down to
a picture at the bottom of the page).  Keep in mind that HOW you display the
light is up to you (one light, combination of several lights), as long as
you display the RIGHT COLOURS and in the RIGHT SEGMENTS.

 

Marek

 

From: robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 11:29

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: robert 

Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

 

Marek:

The light on the front of the mast about 1/2 way up just above the spreaders
is the one I am talking about..I was told it is no longer a legal
requirement but the 'anchor light' at the top of the mast is a legal
requirement..it can be seen 360 degrees but the light 1/2 way up the
front of the mast can not be seen 360 degrees.

I didn't think a single wire made sense also and did not buy the fixture. I
will buy the more expensive Aqua Signal.

Thanks all for your input.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S. 

On 2016-09-12 10:24 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

Rob,

I am not sure to which part you refer as "no longer legally required". You
don't need the deck light, for sure, but you do need a steaming light,
unless you can show a 360 degrees white light in some other way (e.g. turn
off the stern light and turn on the anchor light at the top of the mast).

A single wire out of the combination light does not make sense. You need at
least two, unless they try using the mast as the ground (then I would not
buy it). Most of the combo lights come with separate leads for each
function, i.e. negative/ground (usually common), positive - steaming,
positive - deck light. Some combo lights had a switch in the unit that allow
to run the power with a single positive wire (plus the negative). If this is
one like that, the switch turns e.g. steaming light when you turn it on, but
if you switch it off and on again, it would turn the deck light, and again -
both. You would have to decide if that meets your needs.

If it really has a single wire, I am afraid, you will have to bite the
bullet and spend twice (3x?) as much on the Aqua Signal. 

Marine Outfitters (Kingston) has very similar light (for very similar price)
with 3 wires:

http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10002|1|11312=
38614998=90021547.

Marek

From: robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, September 12, 2016 08:50

To:   cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: robert 

Subject: Stus-List Electrical Question

When up the mast the other day, I noticed that my 'Steaming, Bow, 
Foredeck Light' was in pretty bad shape.probably the original 32 
years old. Will probably replace it when the mast is hauled later this 
Fall although I understand this light is no longer legally 
required...but I do like the halogen foredeck light.

I found this one linked below at the Binnacle...almost similar to 
the existing one:

Lights-Steaming-Spreader-&-Deck-Lights/c23_156/p1349/AAA-MASTHEAD-/-DECK-LIG

Re: Stus-List Electrical Question

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Robert,

I have a similar combination Steaming/Foredeck Light.  The steaming light is
required when under power at night.  It is not required under sail.  Mine
has three wires, a common (black), 12 VDC for steaming light (red) and 12
VDC (white) for foredeck light.  Your colors may be different, look where
the conductors terminate.  Originally there were three separate #16 AWG
wires which I replaced with a single 3 conductor #18 AWG cable.  The 20 watt
foredeck and LED steaming light draw under 2 amps.  


Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C 37+
Bristol, RI
(978) 877-0369
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

  



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Stus-List Donation for Stu's List

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I have a Raymarine M81190 ST Compass Transducer that has never been used and
is still in the box.  It sells for $173.99 on Defender.com.  If someone
makes a donation of $75.00 (or more) to Stu's list, they can have it.  I'll
ship it for free to anywhere in the US. 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 

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Re: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Edd,

 

I just saw one installed to cool a ~400 sq. ft. meeting room.  It may have been 
larger than 8,000 BTU/hr. but was much better than the window unit it replaced. 
 

 

Good luck,

 

Ron  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2016 12:08 PM
To: C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Portable Air Conditioner -- Anyone try it?

 

Listers,

 

We’ve had some really hot days up here in the Northeast and the Admiral is 
thinking air conditioning. I don’t really want to go through the expense of 
installing a marine air conditioner and through-hull valves, but I have been 
hearing stories of boaters putting one of those portable AC units on board with 
the exhaust hose going out through a hatch. 

 

I would probably stick with an 7,000-8,000 BTU using drawing 7-9 amps. The 
specs say that can cool 250 square feet, which I think would make the inside of 
a boat cabin quite comfortable. Obviously would only be used during shore power 
or while the engine is running (I have a high-amp alternator and a great 
inverter on board). 

 

Has anyone done this? Any thoughts? 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

  Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

 


   

 






 

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Re: Stus-List Anchor roller arrangement on my C 38

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Listers,

 

Many good ideas and thanks to all for your input.  

 

I liked  Rick Brass's idea of adding provision for the asymmetrical tack
line to the custom roller mounting plate.   Paul E's use of the 4WD
controller is cool and his blog is even cooler.  Tom's photos show a really
neat install and it looks like the Quick windlass can take both rope and
chain.  This can help keep the weight down in the bow while maximizing rode
length.  I'm leaning toward a powered windlass but appreciate Josh's
thoughts on a manual unit and also his idea for a selectable fresh/salt
water wash-down pump.  Andrew Burton's photos give me a clear picture of the
modifications/adaptations needed to the existing bow area.

 

I've collected all these and put it in OneDrive folder:
https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgmLzIeljVDt4Uhjv

 

Thanks again,

 

Ron

 

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Re: Stus-List Compass light - thoughts?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

If I had to replace the switch for the compass light or rewire it, I’d consider 
powering it off the navigation lights.  I think the connection on a 37+ could 
easily be made in the lazarette which already has power to the stern light.  
This wouldn’t be much different than the dash lights in your car coming on with 
your headlights.  Makes sense to me.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Alternator Failure

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Gary,

 

No idea on #1.  My “ignition” switch was inadvertently shut off the other day 
with no consequences.  The switch has nothing to do with the alternator.  It 
simply provides power to the starter button, fuel gauge, hour meter, tachometer 
and oil/temperature alarms.  Switching the batteries off while the engine is 
running will fry the alternator diodes.

 

For #2, check out: http://www.balmar.net/?page_id=15295.  It’s simply a 
packaged Zener diode.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2016 7:37 AM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Alternator Failure

 

Well, It's happened again.  The "ignition" key on my diesel got shut off while 
the engine was running (before stopping the engine with the stop lever) and it 
fried the diodes in the alternator.

 

Question #1.  Can anyone explain the failure mechanism to me?

 

Question #2.  On my last boat I was able to buy a protection device (I think it 
 was called a "Zap-Stop") that protected the alternator in the event someone 
shut off the key with the engine running.  The dealer I bought it from is now 
out of business and I can't seem to find it anywhere.  Does anyone know how I 
can protect the alternator from this happening again?

 

Thanks,

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA  


~~~_/)~~

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