David, I just wrap the chain itself around the cleat, usually holds pretty
good with just one circle wrap...and I also use a pin to secure to the
anchor roller and a snap shackle to a link in the chain on one end and
secured to the toe rail on the other for a redundant secure... a windlass
is good
homemade oxalic acid rust stain remover or this:
http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1083
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
On Aug 17, 2015, at 1:06 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Thanks for letting us know what you found. I'm still curious to know if you
have a glo-plug solenoid.
There is certainly none indicated in the wiring diagram from Universal, but to
be fair, the starter
And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few
times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the
one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is
heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the
David,
Search for a pivoting anchor bow roller. Might make retrieval easier.
FYI, I know nothing about them.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a
few times,
Hi Mark,
I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a scotchbrite pad to clean up rust
stains. I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute version
of what I use so it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad
acid defiantly speeds things up, allowing you to rinse in less time
than a soak.
Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up
As I wrote some time back:
One very good source of problems in many of the older boats is the one or more
multi-pole connectors in the engine wiring harness. They have often been there
for twenty or more years without being touched and corrosion build up due to
lack of current flow across the
Barbara,
Send me your email address and I will send a few pics of Calypso's custom bow
roller.
Martin DeYoung
calyps...@outlook.commailto:calyps...@outlook.com
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle
[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
From: CnC-List
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/bowroller/bowroller.htm
From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 7:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers
Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller
Would some of y'all
If I was to put an anchor roller on now I would have it double as a sprit for
an asymmetric spinnaker. Long and sturdy with the roller doubling as a tack
block. Jerry. JJCC 27 V
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:48 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
wear heavy rubber gloves and pull harder, maybe get some help from other
crew if there's enough on board
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 9:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
And now
I never thought of this as a problem since I have a 44-lb Bruce right now but
I'm planning on getting the 20 kg Rocna Vulcan (without the roll bar) for the
Bahamas. I won't have the roll bar to grab but I manage OK with the Bruce. I
don't think the roll bar will play nice with my Bruce along
I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the
anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave
On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use
on a more serious note Dave, the thick gloves do help...I stand on the deck
at the bow and pull up, not back on the slack anchor rode and chain very
slowly, allowing the water column to wash it off as much as possible and
sometimes I use the engine to drive forward slowly to make getting the rode
Listers,
We’re now less than a month away to the CC 2015 Northeast Rendezvous — See
cnc2015.com http://cnc2015.com/.
Floating private dock
Power / Water
Pool / Hot Tub
Recreation Area
Ship’s Store / Mechanics on Site
Shopping Shuttle to Premium Outlet Mall
Close to Trains and Route 1 in
I was using the windless to pull the chain to the point where the shank of the
anchor cleared the water. I have also pulled the chain by hand (before the
battery was hooked up) and tied the chain off when the anchor broke the water.
Once the chain is tied off (rolling hitch with a rope or a
There are different schools of thought about the external strainers. Have a
look here: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/external_strainers. This is from
the Maine Sail’s gallery.
Marek
From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 9:33 PM
To:
I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to
pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the
roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while
I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on
OK,
We all know CC's are the prettiest boats on the water. My 44 has been
called the prettiest boat on the lake by many people not including me :)
or CC owners. :)
I would like to re-ask Don's original questions about the 40 Aft Cabin. I
went with Don to look at this boat hoping to add to the
Yes, if you have a glo-plug solenoid then it should be where the glo-plugs
are getting power from. I would look on the engine but its no guarantee.
The concern is that without one you may continue to burn the the
connector, contacts, or worse the wires.
Josh
On Aug 17, 2015 7:09 AM, David Knecht
When I was last teaching diesel mechanics, back at the end of 2009, both
Yanmar and Cummins discouraged the use of biodiesel in their engines. I
believe Yanmar authorized use of B5 and Cummins was B10, but it could be the
other way around. Hey, I'm getting older and I sometimes forget stuff.
I
My rode is 3 strand which I spliced to the chain. I check the splice at the
beginning of the season. I have to pull it over the gypsy when hauling up the
anchor to prevent a jam up.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From:
Of course. Although I have to modify the one at the anchor because the pin
gets hing up on the bow roller fitting.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Date: Mon, Aug
17, 2015 11:17To:
I was actually looking at this one but not sure in practice which would be
better:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276131%7C2276136id=934454
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2276108|2276131|2276136id=934454
Aries
1990 CC 34+
New London, CT
On Aug 17,
I do it exactly as Dwight described. It's not always easy breaking the
30# bruce claw anchor loose since we back down on it pretty hard. As
Dwight stated after taking most of the rode up you can cleat or chain
stopper (or screwdriver in a link) and power forward gently. Without a
deck wash
David, you might want to consider running the chain through a chain
stopper.
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar--chain-stoppers--P005_155_002_501
That way, anything you have dragged in is held and gives you time to
regroup.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 17 August 2015
On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric
windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was
going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow
roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over
Not sure where Joe is, but that would help.
I just had to clean out my refrigeration system again - Zebra Mussels.
There is nothing but brown scum in the strainer, because I have moth balls in
there, and nothing lives there anymore, but the Zebra fry pass right through
the 50 micron strainer and
Bill:
Fortunately, we don't have Zebra mussels on the Chesapeake Bay! On my
water-cooled air conditioner, I put a chlorine tablet (its about 1-inch in
diameter and about 3/4-inch thick from a pool supply house) in the strainer
basket each week--this seems to keep things from growing in the
I hope you seized all the shackles
Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric
windlass. I
I have bronze keepers for both anchor stems. A stainless pin goes thru the
keeper--not the anchor.
Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
I have chain connected to the anchor so I am all chain at the point we are
talking about. How do you attach a line to the chain at that point to be able
to tie it off? I can see having a chain hook with a line that I leave in the
anchor locker, but it seems like it would be challenging to tie
Thanks Bob –
You must have a plastic Strainer,
I put a chlorine tablet in my strainer and it dissolved half the SS Screen !!.
I asked Shurflo if I could buy just the screen, but they said no, had to buy
the whole thing again.
Bill Coleman
CC 39, Erie, PA
From: Robert Boyer
The chain tensioner would be harder to apply, whereas the stopper takes the
load whenever you let it slide back an inch or so.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 17 August 2015 at 09:17, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
I was actually looking at this
Yes, I have the plastic strainer in a Groco strainer housing and I have 2 spare
baskets.
Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer
On Aug 17, 2015, at 3:24 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Thanks Bob –
You must have a plastic Strainer,
I put a chlorine tablet in my
Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing.
This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the
boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and
had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over.
The final repair was adequate
The heat of welding will change the physical properties of stainless, so he
may (probably did) use stainless rod but it's now less stainless. You could
try repassivating it with a product called Wichinox.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303285|2303294id=1819274
Davis FSR will
Muriatic acid will get ride of the rust stains. Sudbury Hull Cleaner
contains it.
My rigger welded my pushpit, but he is in Annapolis. Not sure what he used
for welding rod.
Joel
35/3
On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Last year I
FSR, fiberglass stain remover. Takes out trusts stain. Use on my Florida,
sorry to say, power boat.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
On the inland sea.
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Monday, August 17, 2015 Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
Last year I had noticed
Citric acid @ 20%
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 17, 2015, at 1:11 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:
The heat of welding will change the physical properties of stainless, so he
may (probably did) use stainless rod but it's now less stainless. You could
try
41 matches
Mail list logo
