Excellent idea!!! As a just bought an older boat, I will have stuff to
sell/give away, and other stuff I will need!
Bruce
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Feb 3, 2017, at 6:43 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I love this idea!
Yes, that pin is to hold down the plate covering the bedding compound.
Bruce
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Jan 31, 2017, at 8:42 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> They are likely there to hold down the bedding plate.
ttle starboard of
> centerline and runs fore and aft.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>> On Mon, Jan 30, 2017, 11:43 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Three responding questi
Interesting twist on this issue - and something for everyone to consider. Our
new (to us) 1994 37/40+ had batteries from last year in the main bank that were
showing 12.2 volts just coming off the charger. The damage was done, but we
didn't know why. So, when we put in the batteries this
Our new to us 37/40+ had a very large steering wheel and the owner had the
original which we reinstalled. I would list it on the new site for used gear,
but I thought I'd start here. Look at the listing for a C 37/40+ in Marco
Island for a photo. It is probably about 60 inches across.
Bruce
Out of an abundance of caution, given that the boat I am buying has been
started, but not substantially run (other than for our survey) for about 5
years, I would like to be extra-cautious about potential fuel tank
contamination.
I think that the tank is about half-full. At the suggestion of
can't do any of those and choose to recirculate it using the engine,
>> install an Algae-X unit ahead of the fuel filter.
>>
>> http://www.diesel-fuels.com/algae-x/magnetic-fuel-conditioning.php
>>
>> Install a vacuum gauge downstream of your fuel filter to give you wa
Hello everyone,
Well, it's almost official - We're closing on a C 37/40+ next week!
Agreements signed, funds transferred, etc. Now it's just about the paperwork.
So now the fun begins - repairs!
There is a broken elbow fitting at the water tank manifold - it appears to be
polybutylene,
Hello everyone,
Well, it's almost official - We're closing on a C 37/40+ next week!
Agreements signed, funds transferred, etc. Now it's just about the paperwork.
So now the fun begins - repairs!
There is a broken elbow fitting at the water tank manifold - it appears to be
polybutylene,
Hello all,
The engine in our 37/40+ is a Yanmar 3JH2E. Anyone know where I can download a
full repair manual? Ideally, I'd like to find one free, as I know there is a
full manual on board, but I want to begin reading everything I can before I
take possession.
In talking with the surveyor,
osh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Jan 28, 2017 1:33 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Hello everyone,
Well, it's almost official - We're closing on a C 37/40+ next week!
Agreements signed, funds transferred, etc. Now it's just abo
Hello all,
I'm thinking something might have gone sideways with my last post. Our Yanmar
panel in the cockpit has a red light that flashes red when the engine is
running. The charge is about 14.5, and the batteries don't appear to be
overcharging. What does the flashing mean? There's not
We're motoring in the gulf on Battery 2 at 14.2 volts charging and the charge
light at the helm started flashing and beeping. When we switched to battery 1
bank, it stopped. Ideas
Could turning off the key accidentally when running dry the regulator?
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
; S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>> On Feb 18, 2017 8:43 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I'm thinking something might have gone sideways with my last post. Our
>> Yanm
saltwater.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>> On Feb 16, 2017 2:14 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> I don't r
Our old C would occasionally leak out of the inspection port when full and
hard on the wind. I mostly fixed this with a good o-ring. Our newer boat has
somewhat soft o- rings, but the prior owner had applied a bunch of silicone
sealer presumably to stop leaks, which came apart when I removed
Hello all,
We have a Yanmar 3JH2E, and I would like to drain and flush the cooling system,
including the hot water heater before I move the boat. I see in the engine
manual talk about small petcocks, but is there a way, such as by removing hoses
that I can not just drain the coolant, but
Hello all,
For those who dropped me a note with interest in my wheel, I'm not ignoring
you! I just haven't been back to the boat, and even when I do this weekend,
will have little time to do anything other than finish up some maintenance
before moving the boat.
That being said, based on the
Hello Josh,
I can't imagine that dorade vents under the helmsman's seats would have been
original equipment. The certainly do not appear on our 1994 37+. That being
said, with 1 large forward hatch, 4 small hatches aft and the ports into the
cockpit, I've been wondering how to get active
Hello everyone.
First, I want to thank everyone for your invaluable insights (and yes I owe
Stu!). I went to the boat over the weekend and after warming up the engine for
the oil and transmission fluid change, I drained the Racor. In short, no
water, and about a teaspoon of gritty black stuff
I don't remember seeing a reference to them in the manuals I read.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to
Hello all,
We are interested in the C 37/40s, and saw a comment that the backstay
attachments should be closely inspected. Can anyone advise how to get to the
backside of the backstay attachments? It seemed (albeit based on a brief
check), that accessing them from the cockpit lockers would be
Hello Everyone,
I wanted to thank you all for your thoughts, insights and photos. They have
been invaluable.
I'm really looking forward with hope that the boat passes its survey with
flying colors!
Happy New Year,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
I've sold the boat but might have photos at home. I remember the solar cells
were mounted on a vey thin fiberglass or plastic panel and it fit perfectly on
the companionway hatch. I then drilled a hole in the hatch track so I could
run the wire inside,
and tapped hole in the hatch surface
On our 27 MKIII we mounted a semi flexible pane that could be walked on to the
sliding hatch and tied in a small charge controller and battery combiner. We
kept 2 series 24s and a series 27 charged on a mooring in Chicago for 10 years
this way. It kept the panel out of the way and we just
Oh, and the combiner was from Yandina. Highly efficient, cheap with a lifetime
warranty
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Mar 22, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Edd, Bruce,
That is the one downside (depending on your circumstances) with butyl sealant.
ANYTHING petroleum based is a solvent, including varnish. I would therefore
not bed a fuel filler fitting with it. That said I am a big fan of it!
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as
Hello all,
Our previous C, a 1977 27 MKIII had a grease cap on the rudder post by which
I could grease the rudder shaft. It took me a few years of ownership to
notice it, but when I did, and subsequently greased the shaft, the resulting
improvement in the ease of steering was immediately
Hello again everyone,
Our C 37/40+ has a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights windows. I
have read up on the removal & re-installation process, and many seem to be
recommending the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar).
I would like to seal the fixed portlights in place
As for the knife, I think a small sheathed dive knife would be ideal. Most
will come with an attachment strategy for web straps, will not rust and are
reasonably inexpensive.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Mar 30, 2017,
Ahhh Wingnuts... in that case being clipped on killed them. Not the case
study to which one should their behavior. It was a boat design issue. Just my
.02 worth.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Mar 30, 2017, at 10:51 AM,
Hello all,
Our 1994 C 37/40+ has 2 battery chargers. There is also a ProMariner
ProSport 12, Gen 3 which is currently hooked up to the house bank, comprised of
2 Series 31 lead acid batteries. It was originally hooked up to one gel cell
and one lead acid (I know, wrong) and was set to the gel
Hello all,
I have a number of the plastic latches on our 1994 C 37/40+ that are broken
and need to be replaced.
Does anyone know where I can get replacements?
Ideally, I would love to replace all of them with something that does not
require us to reach our fingers into the small holes to
Hello all,
I am a big fan of butyl sealant tape on deck hardware as many of you have said
in the past. Yet, there are many formulations, some of which work better than
others for our applications.
Which one do you swear by, and can you please post a link?
Thanks!!!
1994 C 37/40+
Astralis
I just finished replacing a rule pump in the deep bilge on my 37/40+ with a
Whale Gulper and a water witch switch. I have a Rule 800 gah in another spot.
The Rule is way weak by comparison. I mounted the whale gulper somewhat
remotely. I feel as though, despite it being rated at 300 gph
d be sure its cast ...
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce
> Whitmore via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:01 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.
Remember to use plexiglass, not Lexan. Lexan will scratch and craze.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Apr 4, 2017, at 12:39 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I spoke to a local fabricator about
Hello all,
Our 1994 C 37/40+ engine insulation is dropping bits of black dust
everywhere! As a result, I want to replace it. What do you folks recommend,
and are there any hints to replacing it?
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Hello all,
The wires leading out of 1 batty charger show 1.05 volts and the the smart
charger is not charging the #2 battery bank. The wire lead down under the nav
desk and disappears. Yet, only large battery cable are connected to the
batteries. Same thing with the back of the battery
0 | Office
> 914.774.9767 | Mobile
> -----------
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
> On Apr 8, 2017, at 2:35 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> The wires leading out of 1
I tried 5200 on my 1977 C 27 MKIII a few years ago and it peeled odd the
fiberglass in the bilge. My new to me boat used a piece of 1" wide thin
stainless which was bent 90 degrees at the bottom. The pump was screwed to
that and a small hole or two were drilled high up where it could be
Agreed!
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Apr 13, 2017, at 11:10 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Since you mention non-skid, I think you may be conflating "topsides", with
> the deck.
For the hull topsides (not nonskid!), I have had excellent results with
PoliGlow. That said, this was with our last boat in Chicago, and we are now in
Florida with a different boat. So, I too will be interested in this exchange!
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos
that the next time I would try
to make shims out of a soda bottle. Just thin strips of plastic to put under
the elastomer.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Tue, Apr 18, 2017, 6:45 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hello all,
Before I order
Hello all,
Before I order hatch friction latches, I'd like to make sure I have them
identified correctly. I think they are Lewmar Ocean Series, and I I need parts
for the latches that are about 8" x 14".
Can anybody confirm my belief, and better yet tell me if you have any spare
parts before
Thanks Josh,
Very helpful!
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Mar 9, 2017, at 8:10 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Check out a water witch switch.
>
> I had automatic Rule that "sensed" the
mail.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 8, 2017 11:09 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Automatic Bilge Pump? Recommendations?
Mine has limber holes that allow all the water to accumulate in the deep sump
located about 2 ft aft of the mast.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Mar 8, 2017 10:03 AM, &
If you have not read it, I would recommend reading Lynn & Larry Pardey's Storm
Tactics as well as watching their video. Also, you might find their biography
both entertaining and informative. I too, believe that many, if not most boats
can make the trip, but it is an issue of understanding
Hello all,
We have a deep, but small bilge just forward of the mast on our CYC 37/40+, and
I need to replace the bilge pump. It had a Rule 1100 GPH automatic pump
(rather than one that has a separate float switch). It seems like a pretty
small area, and I would like to continue to use a pump
I also have 2 bilge pump switches wired on this boat (and wired one of my own
on my previous C 27 MKIII) to have positions for "off/auto/manual on".
On a related issue, the last few reviews of the Rule automatic pumps were
really quite bad, talking about quality issues. Has anyone tried the
I agree wholeheartedly about WM - they sent a link to me to rate their store
after my last visit, and I told them to please act like a chandlery, not a JC
Penny... :)
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Jack Brennan via CnC-List
Hello all,
Perhaps those of you with a 37/40+ can provide some guidance. The surveyor
suggested adding a vented loop to the waste hose leading from the head to the
through-hull. This makes sense to me. However, in looking at the hose, it
seems to lead from the through-hull under the sink,
Just FYI for your consideration, Raritan makes a pump kit that can be used with
the existing bowl, and it is way cheaper than a new Raritan head. On our old
C 27, I replaced our Jabsco with a Raritan, and really felt that their pump
and lever design was better than the up-and-down pump of the
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C 37/40+. The starboard water tank is leaking through a crack
in an upper corner of the tank. The P.O. tried to seal the crack with a
combination of silicone sealer reinforced with a piece of fiberglass cloth.
Obviously, that repair didn't hold. Thankfully, the
Hello,
I am just replacing them on my 1994 C 37/40+ now. If they are small chrome
caps with cutouts to let the light out the bottom, then they should be the same
as what I have. Mine were stamped 90 on the metal base, which is equivalent to
the same base as a 1142 bulb, but you're right that
Hello all,
Our 1994 C 37/40+ has a section of deck core, limited solely to the area
under the sliding companionway hood that has become rotted and needs to be
replaced. This was caused by the sliding hatch stop being slammed too many
times by the DPO and the stop being solely held into the
You Canadians don't have the benefit of Amazon Prime? That would suck... OK,
that could change my previous post.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
I have been in the process of replacing all the interior light bulbs with LEDs,
and am now moving on to the navigation lights. For my bow navigation lights,
I'm probably going to go with Marinebeam, as I could not find high-intensity
green 1157 LEDs. There are plenty of red ones out there
First to Richard, who started this thread:
First, identify the light. On our 1994 C 37/40+, ours lights are Aqua Signal
41 series lights. 1 screw at the bottom will remove the lens. As for the
bulb, in these, they are specifically Aqua Signal brand labled, and are 25 watt
incandescent
Hello,
We took over ownership of a 1994 C 37/40+ about 4 months ago. At that time,
we knew we had a battery issue. As it turns out, after we replaced the
batteries, we found that one of the battery banks was still not showing enough
voltage getting to the panel. I immediately suspected a
Hello all,
I saw the comment about wheel vs. under-deck autopilots, and have a rather
funny story. It turns out our new boat neighbors had taken their 42 ft.
Catalina out for a relatively long sail (a couple hundred miles). As they were
coming back, the steering failed. They attached their
OK, seems like a dumb question. We spread out the cruising spinnaker on our
lawn today, having not put it up before on our new (to us) C 37/40+/. It is
in a spinnaker sock. The sheets were in the bag, but not attached to the sail.
It is made by UK. Along one edge is a bright green strip.
side of the sail
but that is just so that the front faces forward and numbers can be read.
Often sail makers will put red stripes on the port side and a yellow stripe on
the foot. This also help when packing the sail in a traditional bag. Since
you have a sock it is less needed.
Josh MuckleyS/
Zerostart 310-0003 Engine Block Heater
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UNASYS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iOPuzb6CAMJER
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD
On Jun 27, 2017 8:52 AM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Hello all,
I think I know the answer
Hi Brett,
Forgive me if I am being too basic in my explanation, but I don't know your
prior level of expertise. First, there are three parts of the stuffing box.
See the picture here: Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes - Complete Assembly.
|
| |
Buck Algonquin 00PB75 Packing Boxes -
Hello all,
I grabbed a can of Protexall Super Slick Stuff at my local Lowe's the other
day, noting that it says no wax, buildup or silicones. Now I'm a big fan of
Sailkoat on sailboat hardware above deck, and generally a fan of SuperLube for
grease and spray lubricants given its PTFE
We also have water stained areas on our floor boards and will eventually want
to refinish them. Once we remove the old finish, what is the recommended
recommended varnish? I am presuming a good quality spar varnish, and I don't
want to start a proverbial "varnish war". :^) That said,
FYI, Oxalic acid is commonly referred to as wood bleach, so yes, that should
work.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Apr 26, 2017, at 10:29 AM, robert via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Joel:
>
> Thanks for the
Hello all!
I'm guessing Josh or one of you other brilliant folks with 37/40+ C will be
able to guide me. There is a small switch above the table near the forward
bulkhead. I can't seem to figure out what it does. Presumably it is for an
overhead light, but I don't see anything that isn't
Absolutely well done, Ken!
We've only had our C 37/40+ for about 6 months now, and hope that in another
year or so ours will start to look almost as good as yours!
Thanks for sharing! Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Agreed as to the warning on the wiring, and as of 1994, no, they did not wire
the boats with tinned wire. I am finding a LOT of the wire in my boat to be
blackend with corrosion. While it is still largely functional, in the back of
my mind I'm weighing the long-term need for properly rewiring
Hello all,
We have a 1994 C 37/40+ with an Adler/Barbour A/C unit. The drain pan is the
issue. When we bought the boat, the surveyor noticed the rusty pan, and
suggested cleaning out the rust. In addition, the drain for the pan for some
reason is in the side of the unit rather than in the
Hello all,
After fixing our cracked water tank, I put the caps back on the inspection
ports, and filled up all the tanks, checking for leaks. One in particular
leaks rather badly, and it turns out the lip on the cap is cracked, causing the
o-ring to not make a very good seal. These do not
Hello all,
I'm looking for someone to correct me if I'm going down a bad path...
Our 1994 C 37/40+ has grayed out teak grab rails, 12' on center with 6 loops.
We're in Florida, where sun likes to strip varnish away with ruthless abandon,
and the boat has a sleek, modern look on the outside
Hello all,
First, I want to thank everyone here for their help - it really gave me a jump
start on fixing my water tank.
Here's what I found:
- The tank is definitely made of LDPE (low density polyethelene). HDPE does
NOT stick to it, so don't even begin to think that all polyethelene
nis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:59 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I pulled on the battery cables, and they literally felt crunchy.
Turns out the battery cables were corroded thoroughly, and b
I had an interesting issue which we only sorta knew about when we bought
Astralis, our 1994 C 37/40+. Battery 1 (starting battery) showed strong, but
the #2 battery was showing 11.9 - 12.1 volts with no loads on them. After
replacing the batteries with known good units, the battery voltage
Hello all,
The last thing I want to do is to start "The Great Dinghy War".
That said, our '94 came with two outboards, one 6.5 hp Honda 4 stroke mounted
the the stern railing and an old Torqeedo. Haven't even gotten around to
testing either one yet - too many other things on my list! Thre
Hello all,
I thought I'd let you know what I found out The bulbs mentioned below fit very
will and put out a good amount of red light through the courtesy lights, which
made it easy to see down below when it is dark but won't disrupt you night
vision. The small bulb size worked quite well
I am also thinking about putting solar panels on our bimini. As to the Blue
Seas ACR, I used something different on our old C 27, a Yandina Battery
Combiner which is essentially the same thing, but the Yandina is very small, I
think it is much easier to install (no extra wires to run
Interestingly, when we took possession of our '94 37/40+, the water heater was
also bypassed. The hoses were still connected, but a section had been cut out
to make the loop. As a check, I flushed the hoses with clean water (there was
actually still antifreeze in them which gave me comfort
I keep hearing good things about the Water Witch, and put one in along with a
Whale Gulper pump. I really like the outcome, but my assessment isn't
dependable as it's only been a month or two.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
>
On our 1994, there is a small round inspection port just to port of the forward
battery box, under the settee. I might be able to find and send you a picture.
Our seacock there is unfortunately frozen, so I plan to replace it the next
time the boat comes out of the water.
As for the salt
t; Is your seacock frozen open? Might just be a barnacle. Mine is in a bad
> spot to be replacing and I'd do everything possible to avoid that situation.
>
> Josh
>
>> On May 3, 2017 9:16 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
&
OK, in the box of parts left behind by the prior owner of our 1994 C 37/40+
are two Arcotronics C.87.0EF3 50uf capacitors. You can see a picture of them
here: 1pcs - ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz) 500V(180/15) Capacitor -
C.87.0EE3 MKP | eBay
And, they're not exactly cheap, even on Ebay.
are no inspection ports there either. Yes, my plan was to mount the
wash down pump in the anchor locker.
Thanks,GaryS/V Kaylarah
~~~_/)~~
On Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:16 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
On our 1994, there is a small round inspection port jus
Hello all,
Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look fogged
and lightly scratched all over from years of sun. After reading here and other
places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a test here at home. I
have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece
Hello all,
On our 37/40+, I think one of the leaks into the interior of the boat is coming
from the stop for the companionway hatch. There is a athwartship board that
serves as a stop for the companionway hatch that, though I can only get my
fingers on it, appears loose this is under the
Hello all,
I am looking to your collective wisdom on the fixed port replacement on our
1994 C 37/40+. I am aware of the recommendations regarding VHB and Dow 795.
Due to time constraints, I am having a highly recommended pro do the work, and
he removed one of the ports today. He asked a
glass polish three times a year to
it. Good luck From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
To: C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it
o
shing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses. I
>>> have done this many times on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft
>>> windscreens. I did it ones on my boat. Now I just take plexiglass polish
>>> three times a year to it.
>>>
>>>
Hello all,
I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot. It is
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate. Oh well,
something had to substantially exceed the budget
Hello all,
Our new (to us) 1994 C 37/40+ has a Navico PH 8000 autopilot. The hydraulic
ram works, as I can get it to turn the wheel to the stops. I have been able to
find a manual online for it, but it references the Junction Box/Amplifier unit
as JA 8000, where ours is clearly labeled JB
Hello all,
We have managed to now break 2 (!) of the clutch handles on our Lewmar D2
clutches. Interestingly, 2 or 3 of the clutch handles are aluminum, and seem
pretty robust. The others are fiberglass, and those are the ones that after
many years, if they are open and someone inadvertently
spx
Rick TaillieuShearwater Yacht ClubHalifax, NS. From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: May-22-17 22:41
To: C List; John Timm
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Navico PH 8000 Autopilot Issue Hello all, Our new (to us)
1994 C 37/40+
as mine, but the might work.
Anyone tried replacing the handles on their Lewmar D2 clutches?
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>; Josh Muckley <muckl...
I've told Romelle that she's my wife but Astralis is my mistress... She
agrees, but doesn't mind since she likes sailing on her as well. Does that
make it a 3-way? :)
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On May 26, 2017, at 1:03
Hi Josh,
While I understand what you are describing, I'd love to have a picture of your
Cunningham setup.
Would you have one available to share?
I am thinking of adding cars to my jib track that I can adjust from the cockpit
via lines (rather than the pinned adjustable cars I have now), so if
Dennis,
I like it! Have had to deal with similar situations and really like your
solution. I'd probably go even further and coat the center on both sides with
liquid electrical tape.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On May 25,
Hi all,
Keep in mind that the hull speed is not the "maximum" speed that the boat will
acheive. It is the maximum speed at which the amount of energy needed to cause
the boat to go fast increases, and yes, it is a steep increase in energy input
from the sails.
That said, our C 27 MKIII
1 - 100 of 390 matches
Mail list logo