The domestic fresh water tank (I assume original) on my 1981 C 34 has two
ports in the top with screw in covers with 3.5" diameter threads. The
covers have degraded to the point that they no longer thread in (the
plastic has shrunk - probably due to a chemical used by the previous owner
or
If you do a peel and then put the peeled piece back after replacing the core
how do you bond the top surface structurally to the surrounding deck at the cut
edges?
- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C 34
> On Jun 14, 2018, at 5:41 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I have not done a peel but
I just got a new insurance policy for our 1981 C 34 from BoatU.S. They
have not required a survey and the application was pretty straight forward
- they did however, want recent detailed pictures of the interior, exterior
and rigging of the boat which I was able to e-mail to the agent. The
a few years ago. It was a 1986
> but I believe C had the same tank manufacturer forever. The company name
> was embossed faintly on the screw on port caps which I then used to Google
> search and source new ones (which were very inexpensive by the way). If my
> memory serves me (less so anymor
ulf Stream Associates, LLC
>
> (401) 419-4650
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List on behalf of Nathan Post via
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, June 19, 2018 11:34 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post
> Subject: Re: Stus-List marine insurance
>
> I just got a n
Hello all,
I'm new to this list - my wife and I just purchased a 1981 C 34 center
board version. The boat has been on the hard for about 1.5 years after
being a salt water boat here in the Boston area. The surveyor assessed
that the rudder was "saturated and delaminating" and he recommended
. I don’t know if salt water
> creates an additional issue (I’m on freshwater).
>
> *From:* Nathan Post via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, June 04, 2018 8:03 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Nathan Post
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 34 1981 Wet rudder - necessary to
> rebu
vin via CnC-List
>> wrote:
>>
>> Recommend you look at Garhauer for your bang.
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>> On Jul 28, 2018, at 2:08 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi All,
>>>
>>&
Hi All,
We finally have Wisper - our 1981 C 34 CB we purchased in May in the water!
Excited to take her for a first sail tomorrow from Scituate up to Lynn MA where
we will be keeping her this season. She was left on the hard by previously
owner for two years so lots of cleaning and lots of
the boom-end, screw-drive outhaul system on
> the original 30-1 roller-reefing boom. I have the occasional problem with
> the top batten catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions I
> have the backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let the
>
All,
Having sailed our 1981 C 34 a few times and while looking into having a
dodger and bimini made for her I am considering raising the boom about 8 to 10
inches. Good idea or bad idea? Has anyone done this on their boat?
We are only planning on cruising, not racing. The current full batten
roller-reefing boom. I have the occasional problem with
> the top batten catching the backstay in light wind, but in those conditions
> I have the backstay adjusted loose and can just jiggle the backstay to let
> the batten pass.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
>
Not sure regarding the 33-2 but I was able to just fit a PYI shaft seal in my
34. It took perhaps an inch or so more space along the shaft than the original
stuffing box. Once installed and assembled with the right pressure on the
bellows I have an inch or so between the PYI and the end of
This is the one that I put in my 1981 34 this summer:
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C311%7C2349117%7C2351343=3032966
1 inch ID, 1-1/4 inch OD. 4 inches is a little long but I just let it stick out
half an inch rather than trying to cut it.
- -
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
On my 34 I found I have a lot of prop walk in reverse (worse than other boats I
have helmed - probably due to the two blade folding prop). I had a slip last
summer that only made sense to go in forward (we only have a gate on starboard
and the finger to starboard). I tried a strategy that was
I selected 1/2 inch for the genoa sheets on my 34. I am sure 7/16 would be
adequate, but I like the larger diameter for hand tailing (we don’t have self
tailing winches).
Nathan
S/V Wisper C
Lynn, MA USA
> On Apr 5, 2019, at 7:18 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Check out Cajun
Mine was 1/4 inch fittings if I remember correctly. Also when I had that
problem I found that my solenoid was fine - the pressure regulator was shot and
no longer let gas through so I suggest checking that first. Disconnect hose
before the solenoid and see if gas will flow through it.
Also
Hello,
On the way back to the marina this evening the oil pressure alarm went off
after having motored about 10 minutes (and previously an hour earlier motored
20 minutes or so out). I have a Westerbeke 20B2 diesel in my boat. We have
the admiral style control panel so that has both the
Thanks for the good advice and info. I’ll check out the wiring and switches for
the oil and temp alarms with an ohm meter.
Nathan
S/V Wisper
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly
Dennis,
The alarm was pulsing - like it does when you first turn the key on - so I am
pretty sure it is the oil pressure. Can’t get back out to the boat until next
week but I’ll check that circuit out with an ohm meter then. Based on what
Josh said that it is a “alarm when not connected”
Thanks for all the feedback and info folks - sure enough it was the oil
pressure switch (actually the electrical connection tab to connect to it had
broken rather than the internal switch itself) - should have been obvious if I
had been looking in the right place. Anyway, new switch, 5 minute
Hi Adam,
I replaced my ceiling panels with 3/16 starboard. Tho fiberglass wall panels
from Home Depot are very flimsy so I was concerned they would rattle or sag
over time if I didn’t laminate them to something else. Starboard was easy to
cut on my table saw and round the corners with a
I installed something similar to that on my 34. I ended up with the Buck
Algonquin one instead cause that is what the shop had in stock, something like
Steve,
I have a 1981 C CB version which we bought in June 2018. It is a fun boat
which sails really well and is comfortable for coastal cruising.
Prices vary a lot with condition and what it comes with and where you are
located. Mine was pretty bare bones with old main and jib (had a sail
For one thing the offset shaft makes it so that you can get the shaft out
without pulling the rudder. This is a very nice feature I took advantage of
when installing a shaft seal last year. On the other hand my 34 definitely
does pull a bit when motoring. I try to motor as little as possible
I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of
sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it was
delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly stops
near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks
I went as far as putting in a y selector on the intake hose for the head and
plumbing it the to fresh water tank with a back flow preventer so that the head
flushed with fresh water. That is easier than using the sprayer for flushing.
There is a little more resistance when in wet flush mode
I bought these bow lights for my 1981 C 34 last fall:
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=whitecap-led-side-lights-flush-mount=-1|65136|2312550|2312557=2650416
They are a drop in replacement fixture for the original in-hull bow running
lights on my boat but sealed with LEDs. I have yet
Dennis,
That is interesting - on my 1981 C 34 there is a second propane locker on the
port side - I keep a spare propane tank in it. It has a drain to outside the
hull above water line same as on starboard. Assuming you have the through hull
on the outside on port, I would guess that a
David,
I purchased new Dacron cruising sails (main and 135% genoa) for our 34 last
spring for the 2019 season. After getting quotes and discussing it with
several suppliers including North Sails and Precision I decided to go with
Doyle Sails in Salem MA. Chris Howes at Doyle worked with me
Has anyone tried a garboard plug on a centerboard version C keel? Where did
you put it? I like the idea of keeping the bilge dry in the winter on the hard
but am not sure how well it would work with the flat/wide bilge on the boat
with the keel bolts down each side. Where would I put it? It
re consider spreader lights, long range wifi (cat-6),
> windex light, and NMEA2000
>
> You may also want to evaluate the current bonding situation for the mast.
>
> I can give additional pointers or advice if desired.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
>
All,
As one of my boat projects this spring I am replacing the electrical wiring
in my mast. The mast is currently down (horizontal) so now is the time to
do it. I want to secure the wires in the mast, in particular to reduce
noise (when rocking at anchor). Wisper is a 1981 C 34 with a keel
Joe,
The cable tie method was my original plan - then started reading about it
and it seemed that conduit might be a superior long term solution - hence
starting this thread. The cable ties will definitely be easier, faster,
and less expensive. Biggest drawbacks are that I would have to prepare
y of space for smaller
> cables.
> Holding the conduit in place while drilling and riveting might be
> challenge also. Too bad the mast doesn't have a wire track like some of the
> newer ones.
>
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
>
Some great info and good suggestions Rich. That is a very clever way of
bolting the conduit on the inside of the mast. Thank you. I am thinking I
will try using blind rivets - at least mostly - to hold the conduit in
place since that will be almost flush and avoid having a nut on the outside
of
I have this one which I am happy with. STANLEY BC25BS Fully Automatic 25...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BYFSUJW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Does a good job of topping off batteries and then trickling them. Also doesn’t
require user to figure out what type of battery it is (AGM, gel or wet).
Yes, you drill the hole bigger and tap for the threads on the outside of
the helicoil or thread insert. The other main advantage of using one of
these over just tapping for a larger bolt is in softer base materials
(aluminum, plastic) it will distribute the screw load and prevent it from
Hi James,
I can't offer you specific advice from experience as I am just about to get
into the same project on my C 34. I was able to get end grain balsa core
wood from Jamestown Distributors a few weeks ago
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do - I have heard
that some people
When I did this I tried everything I could to pull the coupling off. In the
end, I ended up cutting the shaft off using an angle grinder with a cut off
wheel and a multi tool in different positions and I had to cut it on a bit of a
spiral. It wasn’t fun. Try to cut it into the key way if you
Thanks to everyone who contributed to the topic of securing cables in the
mast. I just thought I would follow up and report back the result.
In the end, I did end up going with conduit. I installed two runs of
1-1/4" schedule 40 outdoor PVC conduit (gray). One up the aft of the mast
(slightly
I am repainting the deck and the rebedding the hardware. The original hardware
(gel coat under it) used butyl tape and in most places had not failed. The
parts also come up easily when you want to pull them off. The ones using 4200
or equivalent have failed, often around the screws, it is
On my C 34 I had a rigger who does rod rigging go through the rig and inspect
it and re-end all the rods and he replaced two of them. Rods can last a very
long time but the ends need to be inspected for cracks and in my case most of
them were seized into the fittings so inspection of the ends
:
> Nathanwho did the work?
>
> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List on behalf of Nathan Post
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 9, 2020 6:30:11 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy (9ft
Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and the
battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no fuel,
no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge
Cut the coupler parallel to the shaft using an angle grinder with a cut-off
wheel. Try to cut into the key so yuh don’t damage the shaft. I didn’t have
enough room to get all the way among the coupler with the grinder so I used a
multi tool to finish the cut. Then pound a cold chisel into the
Went out to the boat yesterday and used all the dock lines I own to add
extra spring lines on both sides (including across the empty slip next to
me) and took the sails off and stowed them below. Probably was overkill as
we now are not expecting to see anything over 45 kts or as the center of
the
Chandler,
Glad that my ramblings were useful. Honestly, I do think that electric
systems are the way of the future and with an engineering background it
should be entirely doable for you. I am a mechanical engineer and work
wind wind energy so I have a pretty good grasp of the fundamentals
Hi Chandler,
Welcome to the list! While an electric conversion does have its challenges
in terms of cost and performance, I too am very much interested in this
approach and would love to go that route at some point and get away from
fossil fuel based aux power. I am not sure if or when I will do
At 38 I am a year younger than Wisper so I help the other 30 somethings pull
the mean down a bit :). Actually, Wisper is the second boat I have owned that
is older than me - in grad school in VA I had an Annapolis 18 that was built in
1950. One of the early fiberglass boats - similar to a Day
I second the idea of redundant bilge pumps and I have installed both a 300 gph
diaphragm with a water witch mounted as low as I could get it to suck water
reliably in addition to the a 1500 centrifuge pump with a mechanical float
switch that came with the boat. The centrifugal pump float switch
Joe,
Not sure what model hatch you have but on my Bomar hatch they are slotted
spring pins like these https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3537
You can just push them out with a punch that is slightly smaller in
diameter than the pin (use a hammer and gently tap on it. When putting it
back
I also used Trident 147 for my bilge pump (and shower pump) - it is nice to
work with, cleans easily and because it is partially clear you can see if
there is water in it or if you have a blockage. Only had it installed for
2 years, but so far looks and feels like new.
Nathan
S/V Wisper
C 34
00
> From: CnC-List on behalf of Nathan Post via
> CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2020 6:51:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Nathan Post
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Glassing In Cabin Wall Holes
>
> Randy,
> I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mount
I second Mikes take. My 34 has been a great relatively inexpensive cruising
boat so far and I love having a boat that moves in light wind. We sail short
handed too and don’t race so I tend to reef early but she will handle a blow
just fine and with the full rig you can sail to windward pretty
Shawn,
On my 34 the deck to bulkhead fittings also leaked and as I found out were
installed through cored laminate that had rotted so they were not doing much
good. I recored the deck and used a piece of ~6x6” 1/2 inch thick g10
fiberglass in place of balsa where the tang bolts. Planning on
Seems to be a normal problem and from all the feedback on this list I
decided to leave it alone rather than replace or attempt a rebuild and I
just make sure I drain it in the winter. I am pretty sure that the metal
components in my rudder are already encapsulated based on a few exploratory
holes
Randy,
I just did this for a broken autopilot that was mounted in the sides of my
cockpit that wasn’t working. My strategy was to use an angle grinder to taper
the edges of the hole back to try and get at least an inch of exposed glass on
an angle all around the hole. Then I took a piece of
Welcome Jeff,
Something to keep in mind is that a 40 is almost twice as much boat
compared to a 34 or 35 (18000+ lbs rather than 1 or so. Everything is
bigger, heavier and more expensive. And it can also get more complicated
to sail - does it have running backstays? I think that a 38 such
This is an example of a safe way to safely pick up a 34 ft boat with a
large forklift (care of 59-North on facebook):
https://www.facebook.com/59North/photos/a.1498332766863951/3329478570416019
https://www.facebook.com/59North/photos/a.1498332766863951/3329478680416008
I think that method is much
Hi Josh,
If none of your windows are longer than 4' you may find it more economical
to purchase from McMasterCarr even though the material does cost more. I
bought 3'x4'x1/4" https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K739-8505K962/ for $130 +
~$30 shipping here in MA which was enough to do all 4 windows on my
It is also possible with a balsa core to pick out the core with a bent wire or
other steel curved hook going into the side wall of the hole so you don’t have
to over drill from either side. You have to make sure you get it all so the
epoxy will seal the core. Hard to do with a small <1/4”
Joe,
It may take some searching to find someone who will work on older rod
rigging but they do exist. Here in the Boston area, North East Rigging out
of Concord MA has this expertise. Call around and hopefully you can find
someone in your area who can do the work. Does it save money in the end vs
Sorry, just saw that you want a spinnaker. I just bought an asym for my
boat. Precision was a bit less than Doyle but I talked Doyle down in
price just by stating my budget and that the quote was just too high. Came
in under 3 boat bucks including the launching tube and bag. Decided to
stay
I agree with the local loft sentiment. Precision sails has good prices if
all you want is a basic sail but everything (reef points, reinforcing,
better sail cloth, bags, etc) is additional and it adds up. By the time you
add the features the price was close to what Doyle had to offer here in MA.
I
Agreed with others on not using expanding foam for this. I personally used
balsa wood to replace the rotted core as it has the best strength to weight
ratio and is pretty easy to work with. There are structural foams that can
be used but most do not have quite as good mechanical properties as
t; Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Nathan Post via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 26, 2021 8:27 AM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Andy Frame; Nathan Post
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/D
Hi Brian,
Ouch -- yes, that is fairly extensive damage, but anything is repairable.
Was the welded chainplate on the inside damaged as well? I am talking
about the part with the tang that the forestay actually attaches to)? You
will want to remove it entirely and inspect carefully for cracks.
Hi Brian,
My C bow fitting replacement is shown in photos here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Sd5YJg8rJ5GwGZ8M7
I got the general concept from the Johanna Rose blog
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/06/stemhead-replacement.html but
wanted to keep it lighter (using aluminum rather than stainless
I suggest getting an older style computer adapter (pre-USB C). They are
usually 50 or 60 Watts and sometimes 12 volt (24V versions are also
available). For example, we used this one:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/108-ADP-66CRBE
to supply power for a small heating pad control system at
Hi Brian,
There are differing views on wet rudders. Mine fills up with seawater over
the season - the first few seasons I drilled a hole near the bottom and let
it drain while hauled out for the winter (don't want it to freeze and
break the rudder). Each spring I filled the hole, sanded,
I have one on my 34 - I believe that it is there to help keep lines
(lobster pot etc.) from potentially getting jammed between the hull and the
rudder.
Happy holidays!
Nathan
S/V Wisper
C 34
Lynn MA
On Thu, Dec 23, 2021, 11:11 Brian Davis via CnC-List
wrote:
>
> Good day C'ers,
>
> Wishing all
Hi Todd,
I have a 1981 C 34 with the same crack in the mast step that you have on
your boat. I have sailed it that way for a few years now. As the mast step
is in compression I haven't seen this crack as a critical issue or
a priority to fix seeing as the primary load on it is compression
Hi Dean,
I went with Anderson 50ST winches for the replacement primaries on my C
34. I like the size which is physically similar in diameter to the
original Barients and they make winching in the genoa a lot easier than the
old tired non-self-tailing Barients. I don't remember how the sizing
John, I was able to buy some in 2020 (type A match the original for my
1981) from South Shore Yachts in Canada (they ship to the US and shipping
wasn't very expensive). Their online website store doesn't work well but
you can also always call them if you have trouble with the website.
Nathan
Hi Jeff,
I replaced my primaries on my 34 with Anderson ST 50 winches in 2000. They
seem sized correctly to me - I certainly wouldn't go smaller. They work
fine for hauling in my 135 Genoa fully loaded up but it is about all a
typical crew can handle by themselves. If I was to do it again, I
I second using Butyl tape - particularly the Bed-it brand. Not sure exactly
what your chain plates look like. I resealed my chainplates on my 34 with
bed-it in 2020 following recoring the deck in that region and haven't had
any leaking since. I suggest making an angled (e.g. 45 deg) cut in the
I found that the luggage tag approach (attached at the middle of a long
continuous sheet) works well for me. Of course that is only helpful if you
don't do headsail changes frequently or at all. If you have eye splices in
your sheets you could try luggage tagging each of them to the clew if the
I replaced the winches on my 34 with Andersen 2 Speed 50ST Full Stainless
Self-Tailing Winches two years ago. It did require filling the holes and
redrilling. As this was part of a deck repaint with all hardware off, I
ground out fiberglass in a taper around each hole, filled the hole in the
If you have internal halyards then you will need to leave clearance at the
halyard exits (and near the top of the mast to make sure the halyards will
not chafe on the end of the conduit (good idea to smooth/round the top of
the conduit before you stick it in. Also the conduit has to fit past the
Thanks for the heads up Roy! So glad that this is in stock and available
again. Definitely the best bedding compound out there!
~~~
Nathan Post
C S/V Wisper
On Wed, Mar 22, 2023 at 7:38 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> That's great news, you ordered Bed-It.
McMastercarr also sells smaller pieces of acrylic sheet with gray tint.
This is what I used for my Bomar hatch on the bow of my C 34:
https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/129/4052/8505K731
I matched the original thickness. Rough cut with table saw and then shape
to match with a router and a flush trim
Hello all,
I am planning on sailing my C Wisper from Beverly MA to Rockport ME May
4-7 and could use an additional crew member or two to help stand watches
and steer (sorry no autopilot) Currently it is me and one other sailor
friend who lives in Rockport ME. Plan is to launch the boat in
Hello Mack,
I have a 1981 C 34 and those outboard vertical plates on the bulkheads
are stainless steel, not aluminum. I would be very skeptical if any of
those components have been replaced with aluminum. These components attach
the deck to the bulkheads since to save cost (and allow the molded
Later model 34's (1981) don't have deck scuppers and drains as described -
unfortunately, that means that you get a puddle behind the aluminum toe
rail. A piece of cotton wick does a reasonable job wicking it over the side
but it isn't ideal.
On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 3:21 PM Matt Wolford via
Re my bow mod - overall, yes I am happy with it. It was a challenge to come
up with a good solution given the limited space and integration with the
forestay and bow chocks (which are now 6" further aft). Drawings are in
onshape if you want to duplicate it or base a new design off of it:
I am in the process of figuring out adding solar to my two bank setup
(start battery + house batteries) and have been looking at this one:
https://www.renogy.com/dcc50s-12v-50a-dc-dc-on-board-battery-charger-with-mppt/
as a possibility. However, it is relatively expensive and doesn't include
Peter,
I replaced the teak rails with stainless steel with three attachment
points which Kato Marine https://www.katomarine.com/about.htm in 2020.
They made custom length for me and shipped so it was pretty easy. They
also make a great tieoff point for a lanyard when going up to the mast if I
When I did this on my 34 I wasn't able to pull off the old coupler and had
to cut it off with a grinder. I replaced it with a split coupler that was
machined to fit the shaft but was relatively easy to get on before
tightening the bolts that clamp it to the shaft. Definitely recommend the
spilt
Hello Matthew and all,
Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, looks like Rigrite might be able to do
this as well but from their website it isn't at all clear what you need to
order.
I reached out to both Holland Marine and Klacko Spars as well as Mass
Marine Parts (no response from Mass Marine Parts
Yep, definitely not something we want to have fail catastrophically while
sailing!
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Hello all,
My rigger found a crack in the spreader on my 1981 C 34 when they
took down the rig this fall. It is a longitudinal crack on the leading
edge of the aluminum profile where it attaches to the mast several inches
long. Welding is a possibility, but I am wondering if sourcing a
Hello Dean,
Not sure you need to add an additional backing plate unless you are
putting the winch somewhere that there wasn't one before. There is a thick
solid plywood core where the primary winches are mounted on my 1981
C and they don't put a backing plate under it in the factory. I
replaced
Hi John,
Why did your yard want to cut the shaft to install the PYI shaft seal? That
doesn't make any sense to me. It might be hard to get the coupling off but
if that is the case then you can cut off the coupling leaving the shaft
reusable (be sure to cut the coupler where the key is located in
Agree with everyone on butyl tape. Also I suggest countersinking the holes
slightly to give a small shoulder area where the butyl can sit around the
boat. Put the bolts through the base of the winch and wrap them with a
small rolled snake of tape right where they come through. You can also put
Joe,
It is a bit of a challenge to find a rigger who will do it but you should
be able to find someone who will inspect and re-head the original rod
rigging (North east rigging systems in MA did mine 4 years ago
https://www.nerigging.com/). The rods will generally form cracks and fail
at the
That does sound like a challenging project Matt. Interesting that your mast
step bent - my casting cracked in two around the keel bolt. However I
don't have the stringer setup you do - it looks like it is just solid
fiberglass with filler under the mast on my 34.
Not the same part but I just
It is where the stainless steel tube that supports the table on mounts into
it.
Nathan
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
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