On 4 Jan 2006, at 00:52, Larry Makoski W2LJ wrote:
Nick Waterman wrote:
That was my first introduction
to 120VAC in one arm and out the other.
Pah, you're all a bunch o' wimps! 240V in EU ;-)
Power usage being equal, this would mean less current.
yea but it's the volts that jolts
I built K2 Nr 413 and made lots of CW contacts, the built in Mojo was great.
I stopped using it because the crystal oscillator in the side tone was
not a pure sine wave and it became offensive to my ear. I only use CW.
I have been informed by a K2 op that the more recent versions have a
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Many times! Only 1,000 vdc or so on there and enough RF to create a burn
that hurt like @[EMAIL PROTECTED] for a month if it found bare skin!
...
Yes, but the arc was very
Thanks for the replies I received. RFC15 was the culprit, it was open. Ot had to happend when I installed it as this was the first time I used CW. I replaced it with a 120uh that I had in my parts box.
Don't understand why it was ok on the other receiver when I hit TUNE and ssb
and all
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Charles
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
I built K2 Nr 413 and made lots of CW contacts, the built in Mojo was great.
I stopped using it because the crystal oscillator in the side tone was
not a pure sine wave and it became offensive to my ear. I only use CW.
I have been
Here one for yu'all,
When I upgraded K2#402, I did do the AF gain pot mod. However, I notice
that when I turn the volume down, at about the 1 position, which is a bit
before full off position, the volume suddenly cuts out almost completely.
So I can't lower the volume too much before it cuts
Charles,
The parts for the sidetone waveshape mod are included with the KATOBKT from
Elecraft. The values differ slightly from those in the original sidetone
waveshape mod, but both work - still not a pure sinewave, but much closer
than before.
You should consider doing the complete A to B
Prior to and including 1955 all Chrysler built cars had a 6 volt positive
ground system...
Jerry, wa2dkg
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Seems my ISP is blocked from the list - trying again 73 --Don N4HH
- Original Message -
From: Don Nesbitt [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Charles [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 04, 2006 7:24 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Side Tone
Check out the info on
If this is a duplicate, I appologize, but I posted it 18 hours ago and
it hasn't appeared. Is there some delay built into this relector??
Good afternoon,
Now that I have your attention, I don't really think that my K2 is
haunted, but it does seem to want to tune itself.
As I tune the knob
Hi Dave,
Check out the K2 manual, page 32, right hand column. Sounds like you need to
loosen the set screws on the knob and push it in a bit tighter against the felt
washer and then retighten the set screws. The felt washer acts as a friction
brake and the amount of braking force depends on
Dave,
Easy fix - just loosen the screws on the VFO knob and move it back a bit to
create more drag on the knob. Be certain the felt washer is in place, that
is the only thing that creates the drag - adjust the knob position on the
shaft until the drag is right for your taste. If you initially
Thanks to all who responded. The haunting is now over. I adjusted
the VFO knob to put a bit more pressure on the felt washer and now it
stays put when I turn loose of the knob.
Dave
Dave Sublette wrote:
If this is a duplicate, I appologize, but I posted it 18 hours ago and
it hasn't
Thanks to all who responded. The haunting is now over. I adjusted
the VFO knob to put a bit more pressure on the felt washer and now it
stays put when I turn loose of the knob.
Dave
Dave Sublette wrote:
If this is a duplicate, I appologize, but I posted it 18 hours ago and
it hasn't
Hi Dave:
This is probably doe to the fact that the brass counterweight inside
the back of the VFO tuning knob is just a slight bit eccentric with
regard to weight... just about all K2 VFO knobs will demonstrate this
'quality' of there's insufficient rotational resistance applied to
the back
With so many musicians on here, including the K1/K2 designer, maybe someone
would comment on why sidetones are the frequency they are. Actually, I have
been thinking more about how people choose the OFFSET they prefer more than
the sidetone, but it's the same idea.
It's interesting that you
Dave Sublette wrote:
Now that I have your attention, I don't really think that my K2 is
haunted, but it does seem to want to tune itself.
Since you implied that the knob is actually turning, I think you have a
simple problem solved by tightening the pressure on the felt washer, as
others
It sounds as if you fixed the problem by tightening the knob, but that isn't
the only reason for hands off frequency changes.
There was an encoder issue in older K2's that can cause that sort of thing
to happen intermittently too. The frequency would increment on its own
because the firmware was
Hi,
A long time friend of mine who have cancer asked me to sell all his
amateur equipment. I have now an excellent good looking Silver Eagle
microphone, probably will become a piece of collection, who knows.
I just wondering if anybody try with success to use this microphone
with their
A long time friend of mine who have cancer asked me to sell all his
amateur equipment. I have now an excellent good looking Silver Eagle
microphone, probably will become a piece of collection, who knows.
I just wondering if anybody try with success to use this microphone
with their K2 ???
EricJ wrote:
It's interesting that you should say the sidetone was offensive because it
was not a pure sine wave. It is my understanding (not being a musician
myself), that humans prefer tones with harmonic content. Pure sine waves
sound simple and harsh to the ear.
Not harsh, but boring.
Hi Eric,
Interesting thoughts. I am a professional musician
and owner of a K1. I could write pages (and have,
back in school) on how and why pianos are tuned the
way they are -- they are giant mess, pitch-wise, for
many many reasons, but through lots of compramises you
end up with something
So maybe Chinese or Indian export models should include more sidetone
options. Hi.
My offset is also around 600 hz. In a blind test, it sort of settled there,
but I remember being undecided because the steps were too far apart. Like
some other tone close by would actually have been better for me.
OK, while everyone seems to be on the subject of
stupidity...I just found I installed two of Elecraft's
ubiquitous latching relays incorrectly (after several
checks to make sure it was done right !).
Has anyone ever successfully unsoldered one without
serious damage to either the relay or the
I am using one with mine. I assume you are talking about the Silver
Eagle version of the venerable Astatic D-104. Mine has a preamp in the
base, and works just fine with the K2.
Larry N8LP
JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD wrote:
Hi,
A long time friend of mine who have cancer asked me to sell all his
#5290 arrived today. I've enjoyed reading the reflector for the past
few weeks, hope to 'contribute' in the future. In an effort to
eliminate any possibility of a haunted K2, I will hang some garlic over
the workbench before I heat up the soldering iron.
Happy New Year to all
73, Bill
If you can get a desoldering tool with heated pencil and desolder vacuum
built-in
go for it. I got a Hako 808 and removed many remove components from
boards without damaging components or boards on any PCB's. Double-sided,
singles and multi-layer.
73,
KI4HRN
- Original Message
From:
Hello
My T1 kit has arrived in the uk today total 8 days with bank holiday weekend
in the middle very impressed (better get a smaller soldering iron hi)
well done Elecraft yet again.
Mick M1MGD K2#4785 K1#1532
G-QRP 11355 ARCI 12343
___
Elecraft
I mounted an entire row in my K1 ATU backwards after checking it at least
once.
It was easier and safer to just crush them with sidecutters, remove the pins
with desoldering braid and replace the relays with knew ones. I found them
locally, but you can get them from Elecraft, Mouser or Digikey as
Steve,
If you have a Hakko 808 or similar quality desoldering tool, you might try
removing them, but if not, I strongly suggest that you order new relays and
cut the cases on the existing ones so you can remove the pins one at a time
and clean up with solder wick. The board with the other mounted
On Wednesday 04 January 2006 20:05, Allan Bacon wrote:
If you can get a desoldering tool with heated pencil and desolder vacuum
built-in
go for it. I got a Hako 808 and removed many remove components from
boards without damaging components or boards on any PCB's. Double-sided,
singles and
Hello
I have just received my T1 kit and i notice that under the above heading in
the owners manual under random-wire antennas it states(avoid lengths close to
a multiple of 1/2 wavelength on any band) please can someone explain why this
is important,also i wish to use this tuner on the
A half wavelength wire is very high impedance and outside the range of
most auto tuners.
If you're going to use half wave wires, feed them through a 9:1 current
balun. (OK, it's not a balun, it's an impedance transformer)
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hello
I have just received my T1 kit and i
Trying to put together K2 #5278 I am at the point for alignment and test
Part 1. Powers up fine and shows 7100.00 c and display shows correct voltage
and amperage. But when I test the optical encoder by turning the vfo knob it
moves from 7100.00 c to 7100.01 c and then upon further turning moves
Ed,
You are going to find an unsoldered connection somewhere. Examine the
boards carefully. One of the most likely is that you missed soldering a pin
on one of the connectors, but examine everything.
It is not your age - stuff like that happens to all of us at one time or
another.
73,
Don
Ron AC7AC wrote
It's mostly ignorance, though, not stupidity, and some of it pays off.
Like
the engineer who was developing magnetron power oscillators for radar
systems in the 1940's and discovered that the chocolate bar in his nice
white shirt pocket had melted and made a mess. Curious, he
When I was in high school, I worked summers in a machine shop. Simon
Novick, the head of the shop was an old world master machinist from
Poland, and a very fine and patient teacher. He routinely, almost
caually, machined items to within .0001 (but only when that accuracy
was needed). His
Has anyone interfaced an XV222 to an Icom 746Pro?
I would love some feedback/advice from anyone with experience with this
combination.
Thanks very much.
Tom Sneden, K6VCR
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My technical expertise said, just move the HV lead
away from the chassis where it is arcing. So, that is what I started
to do, with the set on, so I could monitor my efforts. Naturally, the
screwdriver conducted the 15+ thousand volts to ME. The next thing I
Hi, Mick.
please can someone explain why this is important
As previously stated a halfwave end fed wire
represents a very
high impedance which is outside of the matching range
of the
T1.
But thats with no counterpoise or fed against a ground
stake.
I have found that a halfwave long wire works
Vic K2VCO wrote:
Not harsh, but boring. But anyway, the reason a pure sine wave is
desirable is that it makes matching pitch with a received signal easier.
Well, and bandwidth. A pure sine wave uses, errr, almost zero
bandwidth*, whereas one with harmonics needs somewhere to put those. A
500Hz
Don Wilhelm wrote:
With both low power out and low current drawn, there is clearly not enough
energy being developed by one of the transmit stages.
OK, this is kinda annoying, and kinda good news.
[...]
Once you have localized the problem to one stage, we can help you localize
the component
Nick,
In your original probelm description, you did not state how much power the
K2 display was indicating - and I would tend to believe it indicated that
the power was near the requested power value.
Of course, the actual power was not that high, but since the base K2 uses an
RF probe type
Well, sidetone and the tone generated from offset is not
transmitted...except into your head via the ear canal which has excess audio
bandwidth when listening to CW.
Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com
-Original Message-
From: Nick Waterman [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, January 04,
One dangerous (electrical) mistake was at 9 years old.
Sent away to Johnson Smith Co. for plans and parts
to make a
radio the ad said, used no batteries or electrical
power.
It turned out to be a crystal set complete with
cat-whisker, crystal, terminals, coil form, and wire.
I followed the
Original Message
Subject:Could you post?
Date: Wed, 04 Jan 2006 16:47:51 -0800
From: Fred Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Eric Swartz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Like the engineer who was developing magnetron
I am surprised the moderators have not stepped in to end these stupid,
stupid and more stupid
posts. Geez, and I thought the SKN was bad. What happened to Elecraft
questions?
73s
john
- Original Message -
From: Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday,
On Wed, 4 Jan 2006, n3drk wrote:
I am surprised the moderators have not stepped in to end these stupid, stupid
and more stupid
posts. Geez, and I thought the SKN was bad. What happened to Elecraft
questions?
Ain't it sumpin' ... the moderators having a sense of humor and allowing us to
Not sure but I think at least one or two of the moderators got sucked into
this and posted their own.
They never mentioned the K-9 prototype. It was a 136Khz crystal radio. It
had a cat whisker detector but was a real dog to get working. Wayne didn't
like it because there was no software in
Can anyone give me some clue as to whether there is some sort of forum
somewhere where I can get information on the disassembly of an old Kenwood dual
band rig? I know what the problem is electronically, but I can't get the
bleepy blank circuit board out of the unit.
Much obliged.
Vin
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Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Some very helpful guys over there and some of the same ones are here too!
My TS-950SD
When I was about 12 years old (1958/1959), printed circuit boards were exotic
technology that was unavailable in kits.
I wanted badly to handle one, and learn how they are made.
A magazine (I believe it was Popular Electronics) ran an article on a 40
meter, transistorized QRP transmitter. I
Ha! I did the exact same thing. Only I molded a dish out of aluminum foil
and started etching my board in my bedroom. As my etching container started
to self destruct, I quickly opened my bedroom window and threw it outside. A
half second more and the whole thing would have melted and landed on
an *aluminum* pie pan
I used a *plastic* container for my first etching project. Nice fumes,
fascinating meltdown. Managed to scrub off enough goo to finish the Tuna Tin
transmitter (RIP).
Scott N1AIA
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On Jan 4, 2006, at 10:17 PM, Scott Richardson wrote:
I used a *plastic* container for my first etching project. Nice fumes,
fascinating meltdown.
Ferric Cloride (the active ingredient in the etchant) shouldn't
attack plastics. In fact, it is shipped in plastic bottles!
Bill Coleman,
Yes, I removed seven of them. I dunno if I can explain how I did it, but I
will try if you still want me too! I still have the tool I used, and if you
are pateint enough and would return it, I could mail it to you, but with no
gaurantees you can pull off what I did!!!
73,
Fred - kt5x
K2 #
OK, HOW I DID IT !!!
First, I made a tool, a heat shield. I made this out of a piece of tin from an
Altoids box. I used a set of relay holes on the circuit board to mark on this
piece of tin the precise location of all ten holes with a needle. Then I put
the piece of tin on a piece of wood,
Guy's..
Just wanted to ask,...
Does anyone on the list, know of a company in the the US, where I could
enquire about having an item here in the shack (UK), re-nickel plated..?
The item is, a 1924 Vibroplex Code Martin Junior morse key, bought by
myself on that site that can't be mentioned..
Andy,
There is a company in the UK which sells DIY Nickel Plating
kits. They target people in the vintage
motorcycle restoration hobby. Its not that difficult to do. I have an
address somewhere which I will post when i find it. you could also look in
the yellow pages of find a copu
Don Wilhelm wrote:
In your original probelm description, you did not state how much power the
K2 display was indicating - and I would tend to believe it indicated that
the power was near the requested power value.
Think it was indicating HIGH actually. If I remember right, set at 5W,
it was
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