Rich really meant WATTs.
On 4/6/2020 5:54 PM, Adrian wrote:
I always use 15.6v and with double heavy cable to minimise VD,
On 7/4/20 4:08 am, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
I’d say that 10 - 12 volts is too low. The supply should be 13.8 to
14.8.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 6,
Steve,
Those LEDs are activated by 2 pins on the MCU, but the actual activation
of ATTN and RIT/XIT is done via the AUXBUS signalling.
Unless you know that they worked shortly before you bought it, I would
suggest that it may have been unused for some time.
On the chance that the problem is
Can you tell I just got a "new" K1? I've had more than a few over the years. My
most recent one needs some upgrades. I have a T1 tuner but would like to find
the KAT1 tuner and the noise blanker.
I knowgood luck eh?
Let me know...
73,
Steve, W1SFR
w1sfr.com
I recently purchased a K1 and found that the LED's for the RIT and ATTN don't
function correctly. When I turn on the rig the LED's cycle correctly then go
out. When I push either of the buttons and turn the RIT or ATTN on, neither of
the lights come on.
73,
Steve, W1SFR
w1sfr.com
I always use 15.6v and with double heavy cable to minimise VD,
On 7/4/20 4:08 am, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
I’d say that 10 - 12 volts is too low. The supply should be 13.8 to 14.8.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 6, 2020, at 10:52 AM, Rich wrote:
I am having an issue with
Christophe,
Since your K2 is SN 7369, it does not need any modifications or
alignment to add the KPA100 - that 10/12m VFO/ALC Mod kit is only for
older K2s, those component changes are already present in your K2.
You will have to add the headers on the RF Board if they are not already
Could be a burned trap on the KAT3 (most likely). Just jumper the coil,
L10 and it will bypass a burned capacitor. The trap was found to be
redundant.
Make sure 6m is on the correct antenna not 2.
In TUNE, does it really have High SWR?
Set ATU to BYP for any tests using dummy load.
Make sure
Thankyou. I'll check those.
Chuck KE9UW
c-haw...@illinois.edu
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 6, 2020, at 2:43 PM, Howard Stephenson wrote:
>
> Try CONFIG TXGN
> It's listed in the manual under the CONFIG Menu
>
> values can be
> If you are having issues with TX Gain on 6M only check the IF
Probably a long shot but does anyone have an unbuilt Elecraft K1 Kit
squirreled away that they are willing to sell?
Thanks for your time
Josh
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Home:
Good afternoon all
for the modifications of the K2 to put a KPA100
must be done before putting the KPA100 so measurement and adjustments
or can this be done once KP100 is set and installed?
could give me the page in the manual of K2 or aligns 12 / 10M ?
thank you in advance, I'm happy to get
Try CONFIG TXGN
It's listed in the manual under the CONFIG Menu
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"The mechanism whereby a coax feedline is carrying RF current into our shack
producing hum is that the current couples into electronics (usually by a Pin
One Problem) and changes the bias state of some gain stage."
My understanding of the original post is that hum was heard in the shack and
Many thanks to all of those who took the time and trouble to answer.
I took the SignaLink apart and re-seated the module. I also re-checked my ALC
setting and all the others on the rig.
I had come across a very useful document by Jason K8ZT and followed his
instructions to the letter. I
That's where the problem was in my 2 K3S's.
Ed.. AB4IQ
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Monday, April 6, 2020 1:09 PM
To: Rich ; Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 and Audio Issue
On 4/5/2020 9:06 PM, David Christ wrote:
That I understand but if the ground from the entrance breaker panel to a water
pipe from the street is 30 feet long, can it radiate interference to AM radios
near it (both AC and bat
Any conductor carrying RF current WILL radiate it. That's antenna
From my experience Don is correct that a failure of the KPA3A will cause
distortion. Mine failed twice and was replaced by Elecraft.
The best description of the failure is “fuzzy audio”. I don’t recall the
output was showing less than 100 watts.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr
"The AM radio in the car works fine in the driveway, but as soon as one starts
to enter the garage, reception is covered up by a loud growl of static. Radios
in a room adjacent to the garage and over the cable in the basement below also
have a problem while AM radios at the other end of the
Thanks for your help as always. Well frankly I have been calling it
the wrong thing forever.
Rich
On 4/6/2020 14:09 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Rich,
Well, since the KPA100 is an option for the K2 (and not for any other
transceiver), I did not make a typo.
Since you have the K3S, the 100 watt
On 4/6/2020 5:47 AM, David Christ wrote:
Until I solve this one I will not be able to complete killing all the noise in
the house.
This sentence suggests that you didn't study the link I posted.
73, Jim K9YC
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Rich,
Well, since the KPA100 is an option for the K2 (and not for any other
transceiver), I did not make a typo.
Since you have the K3S, the 100 watt amplifier is the KPA3.
That is why one has to be careful when specifying designations of options.
As I recall, that distorted audio on the K3S
I’d say that 10 - 12 volts is too low. The supply should be 13.8 to 14.8.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 6, 2020, at 10:52 AM, Rich wrote:
>
> I am having an issue with distorted audio once the KPA100 kicks in at about
> 10-12v.
>
> The KPA100 is putting out 100 watts
>
> I
Just to make sure that was a typo you said K2??
I did your test on my K3S and I am getting about 55 watts on the meter
Any other ideas?
Thank you so much
Rich
On 4/6/2020 13:01 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Rich,
Connect an external wattmeter and a dummy load.
Then set the K2 power to 50 watts
Rich,
Connect an external wattmeter and a dummy load.
Then set the K2 power to 50 watts and do a TUNE.
What is the actual power output? If it is much greater than 100 watts
(as I suspect), then you do not have power control and that says that
the wattmeter in the KPA100 has been damaged -
Electric garage door opener? Most have internal SMPS units.
Drop the main breaker for the house and see if the noise goes away or
decreases on your car radio. If so, it is something in your house.
Now the hunt begins. One step at a time, being one breaker at a time.
That will allow
Other than using a computer, is there a menu item where the tx calibration
values can be seen?
Tha manuals are pretty much assuming that you have a computer and still have
the one that you did the calibration on.
Chuck Jack Hawley
KE9UW
Sent from my iPhone, cjack
> On Apr 5, 2020, at 7:24
That is exactly what appears to be happening. Heavy cable starts at service
panel, proceeds into floor slab of garage which I assume is acting as Ufer
ground. What appears to be the same cable emerges from the other side of the
slab and connects to the water system. I think that it is fair
I am having an issue with distorted audio once the KPA100 kicks in at
about 10-12v.
The KPA100 is putting out 100 watts
I have re-calibrated the radio with no change.
I am testing with the hand mic and a dummy load. Which should
eliminate any external devices causing it
Any suggestions
I am having a problem with a 6 meter repeater setup on my K3S. I have the
correct offset and direction set. I also have the correct tone set. When I
transmit, the repeater can hear me. But I cannot hear it’s reply. What am I
doing wrong? Thanks.
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I believe that is the case. However, one point on the water piping should be
bonded to the service ground for safety reasons. Using the piping for
current-carrying purposes is a really bad idea. Keywords: Copper pipe, dirt,
concrete slab, jackhammer. Don't ask me how I know.
Wes N7WS
It is not just to the water pipe (on the street side of the meter). To get to
the pipe it appears to run through 25 feet of garage floor. This I assume was
done to create a Ufer ground. Whether the connection to the water feed was
intended as a service ground is unknown. It may be to ensure
F8ACF56,
Q9 provides the KEY OUT signal to key an external amplifier (or other
circuit) when the KPA100 PTT is actuated. Normally, this signal (tab or
drain of Q9) will measure open or infinite. It will then measure close
to 0 ohms when the KPA100 is keyed (PTT actuated).
Measuring infinite
hello Don, hello everyone,
I would like to be sure about 2 measurements on page 44 for my KPA100
Q9 tab: tad; is this the radiator? infinite measure
for the central pin of J2, I also find: infinite
the question is are the measurements good?
the whole thing being to have a good base
thank you
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