Before I dismantle this thing one more time, curious if any sage info is
available --
I noticed that with a dummy load plugged in, and operating at 5 watts -- I get
a reasonable power reading but SWR is around 10:1. It does not change at all
as I tweak C1. both outputs from the op amp are
Even without an input (antenna QRN or a noise diode) you should see the noise
from your sound card's ADC. Nothing at all on the plot equates to me to the
settings being off, so I suggest patiently following N0SS's instructions on
EVERY setting.
Also understand that the Spectrogram does
Perhaps you just acquired a K2 ? If so, the first thing to check is the menu
setting regarding the type of input the K2 is expected.
Go to menu -- look for InP - now press and hold the menu key and there are
three
settings --
PdLn -- for a paddle to use the built-in keyer
PdLr -- same,
Shane
perhaps you are reading that folk are as passionate about their K2's as those
that have K3's - likely for differing reasons. If you think about the rigs we
had 15-20 years ago - both rock! I have owned a K2 for 10 years, and enjoyed
operating a K3 twice at field day. both are rather
Jean Michel
If you cannot figure it out, I suggest contacting Elecraft for info - as maybe
they have already addressed this (in particular if it is a requirement for most
of Europe and related places).
The K2 is a nice rig, and of course many will want to make contact with you
from
FK.
Phil
Others opinions may vary, but here is my experience - a K2 works well without
DSP.
Yes you already likely heard a base K2 is all analog. But note that is has
this
feature - the xtal filter bandwidth is programmable. I literally have mine set
up for 700, 400, 250 and 100 Hz
My K2 seems to be working fine -- the KAT100 is working, and it is transmitting
full power. But there is no power indication on the LED meter, and instead I
get a high current warning even though all is well. This just turned up today
on 'an old K2.' It is misbehaving at all power levels -
While I enjoy having a factory-built rig sitting here, the joy of building and
operating a rig is literally 'historic' and very gratifying. By the time I was
of employment age, Heath was nearly gone. After assembling a few kits it was
time to 'pounce.' The K2 has been a fun adventure - I
Brian
Fine on your progress with this fine rig. I plan to
continue to enjoy my own K2 as the flagship rig of my
station!
On PSK31 and digital modes -- you don't need to modify
your K2 -- check out the application note posted at
elecraft.com. essentially all you need is a stereo
cable on
Lenny,
nice work with your K2. i enjoyed the event with a
K2/100 (that previously enjoyed similar contests QRP
before its 'upgrade'). the low bands especially are
in nice shape, even for modest stations - and I even
worked VP6DX on 15m from the east coast with only a
vertical.
at least one
David
In addition to the other comments, you antenna may be
a factor. If you have a dummy load (if not try to
make one that can handle 5 watts or so) try it. If
your K2 is not operating into a reasonable match, of
course it will limit the transmit output to protect
the power transistors. If
Chris
FB on your band collection. While I remember some at
ARRL HQ were trading 2-band modules back and forth
when the K1 was 'new' -- it wasnt designed for that
kinda band changing. If you really want to qrp on
80m, maybe another QRP project is in order. But no
kit single banders come to mind
I am still troubleshooting my KAT100, and now I am
wondering if the problem might be the aux bus.
When the 9-pin connector is attached to the K2, and
the KAT100 is disconnected - should there be 5-6 volts
DC on pin 6 ? I see voltages on pin 8 and 9, but
nothing on pin 6. (And yes i verified
is expected.
If all the above is correct, the KAT100 firmware
should be communicating
with the K2.
73,
Don W3FPR
Curt Milton wrote:
I am still troubleshooting my KAT100, and now I am
wondering if the problem might be the aux bus.
When the 9-pin connector is attached
Jim
PSK is an enjoyable change of pace, and an effective
mode for low power/modest antenna operation. It is a
great conversational mode (and to boot one can listen
to music while having QSO's!).
Since processing is done in the PC, you generally want
to give the PC the full audio passband -
I am at step 1 of KAT100 testing. When K2 is turned
on, indicators default to Ant 1 and Low Power. I cant
get them to change, as my ATU is unrecognized. I am
using latest firmware. I have traced the Aux bus from
my K2/100 board all the way into the KAT100. I
reflowed all the solder joints at
Craig
Don't quit your day job (even if Clint Black is a
close relative) !
Even though my KAT100 doesn't work yet, I am not
singing the blues or one of those teary CW songs ...
I am working DX on the low bands with my humble
antennas attached to my K2 !
Building (including winding those
Tony
very FB. a lot of us took the K2 plunge to enjoy the
building experience, and using a fine radio we built
afterwards. focus on getting the correct parts in
place and making good solder joints - and do the
intermediate checkouts. when part ID is confusing ask
for help. make sure your
I appreciate being able to fire up my K2 and enjoy
whatever HF operating suits the moment. I can't say
its clearly superior to other rig choices that could
be in my shack, but it is there, and I assembled it
myself. Original motivation was to experience the
build, and use it as a QRP supplement
I admit I enjoyed using a KAT100 at FD, but I wonder
how much value it would be at my station.
For feeding my wire antenna with balanced line, I
suspect I need an external balun, that has to go
someplace, and better to be attached to one of the
tuner inputs. Currently I use a manual MFJ tuner
Doug
part of the choice may be whether you want to build
the unit yourself vs. buying something someone else
already built to operate with.
if you truly want to experience building the rig, it
will limit your choices.
TT1300-series. looks great on paper, good value over
all. i have a 1340
FB on your progress. I built mine a few months ago
and really enjoy operating the rig.
I suspect the power variation you cite is merely
thermodynamics. Did you happen to touch the finals
key down?
The VSWR sensor likely needs tweaking per the manual
instructions - mine recognizes a match
Matt
asking questions is a good thing. 2 great answers
already posted. here is the 'punch line':
for 80, 40 and 30m i suggest you turn the preamp off.
(to confirm, with your antenna matched to the rig -
tune in a weak signal and verify that preamp makes no
difference here in detecting the
Julius,
domestic SSB: 50.125 (calling freq) and up
CW: 50.100 and down is typical. (below 50.080 listen
for CW beacons)
DX window 50.110 (DX calling freq) - 50.125.
hint - when 10m has very short, strong e-skip it often
means 6m is open for business.
73, curt
--- J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Greg
FB on your improvision here.
The reason for the capacitor is to provide a DC block,
so if there is DC on the circuit being measured, it
won't get into the counter.
A counter probe is a bit more forgiving than trying to
measure a signal level - you merely need to get enough
RF energy to
Gary
very FB. sometimes the missing 10-13 dB (2-3 S-units)
is not so big a loss on a clear freq, on bands where
you can get above the QRN.
when you have the itch for some SSB activity see who
is strong on 20m, and look for sporadic E on 10
meters.
it is not so hard to wire this rig up for
Gary
the K2 works nifty on SSB, either as a 15 or 100 watt
radio. even with only a vertical I would not hesitate
to call someone DX on 20m. of course its easier when
sunspots are higher! i have made many contest QSO's
running SSB QRP. and this is a great rig for running
PSK31. so if you have
Gary
all is well. the K2 menu has dot and bar modes, so
you can set it up for either. it will take a while to
find what all these settings are used for.
(push menu and look thru something that abbreviates
s-meter by scrolling with the main tuning knob, then
HOLD the menu button until it
.
73,
Don W3FPR
Curt Milton wrote:
I did some additional troubleshooting, but maybe
there
is nothing unusual in these bias measurements?
Bias RxTx
D11 13.70.7
D12 0.7129
D13 13.7 0.2
D14 0.7 129
Q1/2 base 00.6
Mike
for two tone dynamic range testing, both signals are
located intentionally outside the detection passband
(narrowest filter) of the receiver, and the receiver
is tuned so that one of the third order intermods is
within the passband.
you may find that this is a useful reference:
. Current draw is proportional to RF power
output, as above 20w setting rig will neither draw
additional current nor output additional power.
--- Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Has anyone experienced this problem, or know if I
should troubleshoot the bias, input, or output
circuitry. All
Has anyone experienced this problem, or know if I
should troubleshoot the bias, input, or output
circuitry. All is well with the low power bypass
path, and rig seems to work up to around 25 watts
output.
--- Curt Milton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Date: Sun, 27 May 2007 12:08:40 -0700 (PDT
John
before you go too far, strip your set-up down to bare
essentials for operating either CW or SSB. first rule
out that RF feedback is not the cause, particularly if
you dont have much PSK31 experience with the complete
set-up.
73, curt
--- John Wiener [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I was
All has been well up until now, including setting the
bias per instructions. Without PA's my bias current
was 330 mA, so I successfully set it for 730 mA with
the PA's.
I had adjusted R26 for 5w and got the VSWR sensor
zeroed. During my high power test (into a matched
antenna on a clear
In process of upgrading K2 #2117.
Installed BFO and PLL thermal upgrade kits. All was
well. Then I put in the new firmware. It came up ok
with INFO 201 and then Elecraft. Following
instructions I did the EDIT ST L. As I don't have
anything but SSB and 160 currently installed, I
realize I
Very interesting question. When sunspots were good, i never hesitated even on
20m (unless there was a huge pile-up) to speak into the mic of my QRP K2. It
rewarded me with lots of QSOs (using a vertical antenna).
Recently I decided to check out its IF filtering across busy bands in the
Nick
you did not say if you are receiving CW or SSB (i presume likely SSB since it
is more BW dependant in fidelity).
if you dont have the SSB adaptor installed, all the filters may be a little bit
narrower than many HF rigs. when/if you add this board you will have an even
higher fidelity
Mike
you already have received some excellent advice from others, so i will keep
this brief.
(1) understand that mounting a vertical above the ground works best with
resonant (quarter wave length radials) while on the ground it does not require
resonant radials, but is more challenging as it
I am familiar with the article, but be careful with its conclusions. It is a
bit biased in its perspective.
Verticals can work when they are center fed, or end fed appropriately.
Many antennas are a great compromise over the ideal. Few of us can afford the
ideal!
I now have both a
I confess I have not been inside my K2 since I installed the SSB board, not too
long after I built it. I still need to perform the mod on the static-ky audio
(mine isnt that bad but I think its time).
Now I am contemplating upgrading to 100 watts, once I figure out how many
upgrades I need
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