As Rick said;
Go into config MENU KRX3, set it to BNC or ATU depending on how the rear
antenna coax is cabled, then exit the menu and cycle power.
Keith WE6R K3 / K4 Tech
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It is to prevent overshoot.
It will do it when you change bands also.
I'm sure Wayne has explained it in detail if you can search the archives
here or on the groups.io forum.
If it is real bad on CW and FM, then run the TX gain cal.
Keith WE6R K3/K4 Tech
PTT KEY setting not Sticky upon reboot power cycle. See Manual ERRATA;
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/E740258E%20K3S%20Owner's%20man%20errata%20A1-2.pdf
PTT/KEY USE WITH THE USB PORT IMPROVED: Some PC applications can control
PTT and KEY at the K3S via the RTS/DTR signals of
Hi Josep, EA6BF;
Was the circuit breaker tripped? If so, push it in to reset.
If not, it is unlikely to be defective, just check for 12V on both wires
at the KPA3.
More likely it is the DC power pins going to the KPA3 100w module are burnt.
This happens on older K3s, before serial #
Bob;
You are looking for the K144XV REFERENCE LOCK BOARD, KIT (board, bolt,
lockwasher and short TMP male-to-male coax).
The KBPF3 is the General Coverage board for working out of the Ham
Bands, MARS CAP etc and does not affect the 2meter option.
Keith WE6R K3/K4 Tech
Hi Gary;
Look in from with the top off at the RF board where the KAT3 or KANT3
board plugs in.
Check T4 for darkening, it gets cooked if DC is applied to the antenna
connector (like a remote preamp power connected backwards or similar).
You mentioned a remote tuner? Does it get power up the
Hi Al;
Strange, check for corrupt FPF, here are my notes.
Keith WE6R K3/K4 Tech
Corrupt FPF, confirmed by looking at the Config menu item “XV1” then
tapping 9 and looking for strange entries for XV9, RF or IF usually have
weird values, (144 and 28 are the default).
Check that ADC ref is NOT
That "thr 4" is from the TEXT DEC settings.
Long press CWT/0 (zero) button to see the setting.
I would think it would not do anything if "OFF", but try setting the
upper to AUTO or something.
There is a ton of info in the manual...
Keith WE6R K3/K4 Tech
I believe this used to go out automatically every month, but anyway;
https://elecraft.com/pages/email-discussion-list-guidelines
Please review,,, and NOTE; we now have over 7000 members!
(there were only 3000 when Eric wrote this).
Specifically re recent discussion see sections;
3, 4a, 5, 5a,
Anyone that posted in this thread after Eric's post, that were not
discussing the TS-980 vs K4D, were inappropriate.
(except mine of course)
I stepped in only because folks kept bickering and I am list Manager.
Contemplate it this way; What if every 7,000 plus members jumped in with
their
Guys GUYS! ... guess where I learned this :)
Eric asked that everyone stop posting about this and CLOSED the thread
Monday!
Please read his post below.
If you need to comment, send me a private email as several folks have done.
Keith WE6R, list manager and K3/K4 Tech (I have radios to
Pete; Do you have menu MIC SEL set for the correct mic and is the BIAS
on? (Tap 2).
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
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Please, PLEASE disconnect your COMPUTER from your radio(s) if lightning
is in the area!
Almost ALWAYS lightning damaged gear that comes in for repair, was hit
_thru the comm port!_
(lightning hits Cable/DSL lines).
As far as repairs I see, it is not common for it to be damaged from
Jim, just to clarify, I put in the bi-polar replacement finals. We have
some left for repairs.
They are not interchangeable with the MOSFETs.
We had to design a whole new amp around the new MOSFETs, the KPA3"A" vs
KPA3.
You can set config menu "PA TEMP" to a higher number to have the fans
We use; C3,C4,C6 0.1uF , 50V, 10% X7R 0603 Elecraft part # E530306
It is not critical.
Mouser and others have them;
https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=0.1%20uF%2C50V%2C10%25%2CX7R%2C0603%2CSMD
DigiKey; https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/ceramic-capacitors/60?s
FYI, it is easiest to just
Guys!
If you are replying to the DIGEST format, you must change the subject
line to indicate your topic.
And cut off the whole digest or trim it or you will re-post the whole
Digest back to everyone!
NOTE: Guess what the 4 folks who responded to his post did?
They also re-posted the WHOLE
Hi Harald;
Always post your serial #, it really helps narrow down problems.
If older, the 28pin and 5 pin headers on the RF board going to the front
panel were tin and get oxidized.
Change them to gold.
To confirm this is the problem;
remove the two bottom bolts for the FP, pry gently in the
Try using the K3 Utility to re-label the .250 to a different value, like
6K, make sure it has a checkmark for AM.
Or try disabling the other slots by maybe just unchecking any that have
AM checkboxes.
Experiment with that, you should be able to have it stay on the .250 and
still be able to use
Harald;
What is the serial # of the K3?
If older, did you change the P30 and P35 front panel pins (to RF board)
to gold?.
If you have a sub receiver, make sure it is enabled and then check FW
revisions, if the AUX DSP board has mismatched FW, you can get ERR DSE.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
Sorry guys, I made an error (brain is full).
The fix for cold RS232 comms on OLD KIO3 main board is replace Q1.
We changed this part along the way somewhere.
New part is;
MMBT5088,NPN,SOT23,SMD ON Semiconductor MMBT5088LT1G Mouser
863-MMBT5088LT1G
Elecraft # E580048
(BTW, old part was;
If we changed it, we did not need to change our part # as it was a drop in.
Our #E600139 SN75C1406D,16SOIC,SMD TI SN75C1406D Digikey
296-12934-5-ND
Keith WE6R
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Hi Dennis;
What is your serial #?
And please send me a picture of the part.
I bet it is a feedback resistor on the KPA3, they run hot and fall off.
We have upgraded beefier parts, shoot me an email when you pull the KPA3
and confirm (there are TWO of them close the Finals).
The 3R3 resistor is
It could be tin pin oxidation on the KREF3 and/or Front panel pins.
Loose and shove back on the connectors to confirm.
Replace with gold pins.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
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Mike, records show you got the gold front panel pins in 2015 service.
I recommend replacing the KREF3 board tin pins with gold also.
Also, wiggle each cable around there with needle-nose pliers to see if
one is intermittent.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
Hi Gerry;
We have plenty of these, Elecraft Part # E980093 VFO A knob for K3 & K4.
Old finger grip E980094
New Neoprene grip E980285
Or E850306 for knob including old finger grip.
Or E850697 for knob including new style grip.
Keith WE6R K3/K4 Tech
Hi Chris;
I would stop using the radio immediately!
Sounds like the main audio chip U1 on the DSP board is going out.
When they fail, you can get a HI CUR warning because they are shorting out.
They can heat to the point of destroying the DSP board (which we don't
have anymore).
Digikey
Jim;
Make sure you are updated to the latest 5.67 Firmware.
In the notes of the K3 Utility you will find this in the Help\K3
Firmware Release Notes;
It is specific for 6m, it is -only- for the KPA3"A", and will fix any
oscillation issues (which can manifest as High-SWR);
Keith WE6R Elecraft
If you get no ERR with no B, and ERR with B, then you do not have the
newer B version with Pre2.
Pre2 can be turned on on the upper 5 bands. When you tap and get PRE
flashing, that is Pre2 and you should hear an increase in noise floor...
and an increase in S-Meter (unless you have SMTR MD set
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Hi Tim;
We have seen the KAT3 circuit board touch the threads on the AUX BNC and
short which burns some traces.
Check for that, you can put a washer on the mounting stud to lean it away.
Also there are some fine traces along the perimeter of the board that
are delicate and can easily get cut
Don't forget to power-cycle the radio after changing to "PA nor".
(any option that is installed and recognized at power-on must have a
power cycle when you change it's install status).
Keith WE6R K3/K4 Tech
Apparently the 100 Watt PA has been disabled. Go to "Config" (Press
and hold MENU),
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Yes, but the "BAT LOW" message has nothing to do with the clock battery.
BAT LOW means your supply voltage is below the level you have set in
Config Menu "BAT MIN".
From the manual;
BAT MIN 11.0 Low-battery warning threshold; 11.0 recommended. (This
refers to a battery used as the DC power
Hi Jim;
First, do NOT try loading FW, don't do a Parameter-Reset (EE-INIT) when
it is in this state.
1. Check the right side of the radio, it should be warm not hot.
If hot, then the 5 or 8 volt regulator is working too hard, either a
short or itself is bad.
2. More likely, C102 on the FP
Hi Chet;
You should be able to run the TX gain cals with no errors, otherwise
something is wrong.
NOTE; After a successful Gain-Cal, then never, ever, TX at exactly 5 or
50watts (or 1.0MW) as that can cause an inadvertent TX gain cal and mess
it up.
To me, it would appear the LPA is weak.
If some buttons don't work, and some do the wrong action, you for sure
need to replace the 4 push-button encoders!
The old ones "leak" and disrupt the resistive matrix.
Sometimes you can snap the push-button action multiple times to clear
things (temporarily).
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
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Hi
Please search the Nabble archives.
http://elecraft.85.s1.nabble.com/
I have done many of the encoder replacements and posted tips.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
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it also happens at the TVTR RX input. I.e. when I feed exactly
the same amount of HF to the TVTR input and AUX from the signal
generator and hit diversity 6-8 DB are missing intermittent at the
main RX.
73 Udo DK5YA
10.05.2021 17:53:49 Keith Trinity WE6R :
Hi Udo;
In addition to what N6TV
Hi Udo;
In addition to what N6TV suggested, also click above and below 12Watts.
You will hear the relay on the KPAIO3 riser board click.
Do that when the main RX is down, or click it a bunch to see if you can
force the problem.
If so, replace that relay.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
Does
Hi Dave;
Since it was here less than a year ago, no need to send it for updates.
If it hasn't been altered, you can get all the options/filters from the
menus.
If it has been reset for some reason, we can send you the configuration
file to re-load that was saved at last service.
We don't
Just some notes for future folks reading this.
I always replace D1 and Q6 together.
Other notes re Q6 and D1;
1. Poor RX on 24 and 28Mhz 12m 10M only and TX gain is OK. Q6 a 2N7002,
OR D1 on the LPA can Suck the RX down on these two bands!!
2. Slow ramp up of TX power output. Typically worse
Hi Kevin;
If it is a K3"S" there is a trace on the bottom of the board that burns
before T4 cooks. A simple jumper will fix.
If K3, then T4 is probably cooked. There is also a loop of insulated
wire that goes up and over and down thru T4.(awkward, but probably OK).
Take the top cover off, you
Chris;
Since you EE INIT-ed your radio, you MUST re-load a known-good saved
configuration!
Or setup all options, filters etc and do the transmit gain calibrations.
An EE INIT reset blanks the radio and sets it to ONE filter, (a 2.7,
with no offset, in slot 1).
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4 Tech
The links here seem to work; https://va2fsq.com/purchase/
IE;
32bit; https://va2fsq.com/?wpdmdl=2746
64bit; https://va2fsq.com/?wpdmdl=2747
Keith WE6R
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Hi Gary;
That one is defective.
The RefCal # really should be in the range of 49.379.600 to 49.380.400.
(+- 400hz from 49.380.000).
If out of that range, and you have the K144XV with Reflock, it will be
too far for the RefLock to pull it on freq.
Same for the K3EXREF, but the range is a bit
Hi Pete;
RF gain up?
Adjust width to click thru all filters.
Does ATT/Pre change the sensitivity? (if not, it could be something in
that circuit).
Try the RX antenna BNC input (if KXV3 equipped).
Try Ant 2 (if KAT3 equipped).
If good at RX ant, then most likely D26 or 27 on RF board.
If bad at
If an ATU tune finishes like that, with --, then it did not find a
match! (and will be in a random state).
You don't have enough power for a successful Tune.
Try running the TX gain calibration with the K3 Utility.
Or, with a dummy load, ATU in BYP, make sure TUN PWR is at "nor", then
set pwr
Hi Pat;
What are the results of the 5w TX gain calibration running the K3 Utility?
The LPAs are somewhat interchangeable, they don't always make full power
in some cases.
In any case, you MUST run the TX gain cal if you swap modules, so run it
now and it should reveal problems.
Keith WE6R
Hi Rick;
Replace D36 & 37 on the RF board. Very early K3 RF boards had a weaker part.
Elecraft part # E56048
Digikey; BAS70INCT Diode, 70V, SOT23
Keith WE6R Elecraft Tech
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I have worked on thousands of these and I *never* pull the side panel to
take out the KAT3 (or KANT3) boards.
Too difficult if there is a sub-receiver and too likely to introduce a
problem (broken regulator(s), miss-pinned sub receiver) from removing
all that.
Take off top cover and take out
FYI; We do see K3s come in with insufficient packaging when the Elecraft
box is not used.
Make sure the FEET are not bearing the weight of the radio.
Also the AF/RF gain knob, then VFO A knob are the first to take the
weight on the front, so they should not be taking the weight in that
Hi Eric;
Make sure it is in plain-text.
Make sure you don't have a "signature".
I will look more closely at the reject message I get next time.
Keith WE6R Elecraft K3 Tech, and admin.
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Hi all;
I am starting to see our yearly peak of Lightning damaged radios come in
for repair, August through October.
It is MOST likely to come in through the COMM PORT connected to your
COMPUTER (via DSL or Cable Modem).
Those lines are LONG and run for miles, so a direct hit is not necessary
Make sure the RefLock board is seated all the way down in the K144 and
cabled correctly (there is a BAD diagram floating around).
Check for current Firmware, FW of BOTH the radio AND the K144XV! Older
did not support the RefLock!
Check the TMP socket(s) on the K144XVREFLOCK for shoved in
I use about a 5 foot nice flexible old computer mouse cord.
Goes from the RJ 6-pin "Radio" jack on K-POD to bottom of K3 Front Panel.
I did NOT connect a wire to the one unused pin on either end, so you
only need 5 wires.
It works but I occasionally get RF into it on 80m as my antenna radiates
After it is at a stable temp, just change the offset number so it is on
frequency.
Do this below and above 146.000Mhz as there are two sections in the unit.
Easiest way is to inject an exact 146. signal, set the radio to
fine, IE 46.0 go into offset menu and tap SPOT.
Then click down
Hi Hank;
The KXV3, in any revision, is a two-board set that is already soldered
together.
You replace the whole thing, never are they taken apart.
Keith WE6R, Elecraft K3 Tech
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Did you re-set the Bias after changing finals and working on the KPA3
and LPA?
1. The 8W vs 12W switch-over point on 6m is normal.
2. If the 6 pins for KPA3 DC power were darkened and you replaced with
gold, you *MUST* also replace the corresponding KPAIO3 Riser-Board SOCKET!!
The socket gets
If you have a K3S (or late K3, with the KPA3A type 100w amp).
Please see the recent FW notes in the K3 Utility about setting the 6m
Atn6 attenuator switch to prevent 6m oscillations.
Also, what rev of KLPA3A and KPA3A are you at? There have been improvements.
Keith WE6R, Elecraft K3 Tech.
I have not seen any instructions for doing
it that way.
Joe AB3JN
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
----
*From:* Keith Trinity WE6R
*Sent:* Monday, June 15, 2020 2:30:06 PM
*To:* Joseph
*From:* Keith Trinity WE6R
*Sent:* Monday, June 15, 2020 2:19:54 PM
*To:* Joseph McIntire ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
; supp...@elecraft.com
*Subject:* Re: [Elecraft] Firmware, K3, large jump AB3JN
At this point, I would do the reset, then set RS232 to 38400
going through the release notes but there is a lot to go
through. I will look into the parameter reset also. I will let you
know how it goes.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
----
*From:* Keith Trinity WE6R
*Sent:
Hi Joe;
That is a HUGE jump! ( from 1.96 to 5.67. The oldest I have seen come in
was 1.30!!)
It is rare, but I have seen a glitch or two in extreme jumps.
One is the ADC REF gets set to an invalid voltage of 4.00 which is OUT
of RANGE!!
Also any saved configs you might load could be an issue
Do NOT send in just the sub! (also an intermittent will invariably NOT
fail when here at Elecraft).
Like Jack said, check the sub KSYN3 by tapping DISP and look for PL2
voltages or SYN2 OK (tech mode must be on). When wiggling all the
cables, don't forget the one at the back of the sub. Look
Sorry Rich that I did not explain it well, kinda rushed here...
There is a + - toggle (by tapping 1 in that menu) to change the sense
for the phones socket switch. We had a change in suppliers for that
socket and it went from being open or grounded sense when the phones are
plugged in
One thing to remember, when you change the spkr+ph yes/no there is a
DELAY (in one direction) for several seconds as this is a soft-switch to
the BRAIN.
So wait a bit when you test this!
Also, Try the PH.R + -- in the other setting and then test the above
again, waiting for the delay.
**In
Hi David;
You can tap DISP and rotate VFO B knob to see the current. Then set "tun
pwr" to nor, select desired power out, and long press XMIT to send a
carrier and see the current.
(do not TX at exactly 5 or 50w as that will cause a TX gain calibration).
That will give you a close reading.
The
Hi Erwin;
You probably have a shorted D12 on the KPA3, and maybe an identical one
on the RF board near power connector, D28.
These go short from over-voltage.
I would check your voltage! These clamp and short at just above 15V.
They should be replaced. You can clip out if you need to operate
Could be a burned trap on the KAT3 (most likely). Just jumper the coil,
L10 and it will bypass a burned capacitor. The trap was found to be
redundant.
Make sure 6m is on the correct antenna not 2.
In TUNE, does it really have High SWR?
Set ATU to BYP for any tests using dummy load.
Make sure
Don't forget to do the TX gain cal, that gets wiped during EE INIT.
Then save the config.
**BUT; You might try loading your saved config, then read my notes;
From my notes;
*_Cannot toggle LEDs SHIFT LO CUT HI WIDTH TAPPING LOCKED in CW or DATA
mode(s) + N/A_*
_Fix;_Turn off “CW QRQ” in
edro, EA4KD
K3 #188
-Mensaje original-
De: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] En nombre de Keith Trinity WE6R
Enviado el: martes, 11 de febrero de 2020 1:06
Para: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Asunto: Re: [Elecraft] K3 always 100 W
It could be D36
RF overload can do a lot of things.
Try above and below 12W (8W on 6m) to see if the KPA3 is swamped.
Or an antenna on the RX port (If KXV3 equipped).
Also RF overload can excite any loose connections at the tower site,
rusty metal, fence joints etc.
You are just going to have to sniff around
It could be D36 & 37 on the RF board. Earlier ones (1st few thousand)
had weak components. But any of them can fail and usually there is
runaway power out.
If that is not it, look for burned components under the KANT3 board
around T4 or on the underside near D36 & 37 look for burnt traces.
If
If it is intermittent, then check for the KPA3A not being seated all the
way down (pull Fan panel, 4 screws and inspect).
Or it could be the relay on the KPAIO3A riser board. To confirm; click
above and below 12W a bunch of times, if occasionally the RX comes and
goes, it is that relay.
Probably just need current firmware.
A fully loaded K3 is right on the fringe of triggering the OLD Firmware
limit of 2 amps.
New FW raises the limit if the HI CUR message.
If you are at current 5.67 FW, then check the actual current being
drawn, with the internal meter, or a good external
to 5.0 or left alone?
Thanks.
- 73 and good DX de Mike, K6MKF, NCDXC Secretary
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
On Behalf Of Keith Trinity WE6R
Sent: Thursday, December 26, 2019 15:25
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 - Power cable voltage
Notes for all;
Check the K3 config menu item "ADC REF". If at 5.00 it is probably at
default.
(if at 4.00 a glitch occurred, probably during FW update, and will FUBAR
the internal metering. Set to 5.00 or read on).
(I check this during checkout, so if it has been in for Service, it
should be
Do a switch test, (Config menu, "SW TEST") you should get a smooth sweep
of numbers, about 002 thr 236.
If erratic in spots, then the Pot could have been knocked in.
Pull Front Panel and look at the back of it, there are some tabs that
hold it together and sometimes you can bend them tight and
A hidden feature if you you want to toggle thought ALL filter slots,
even if they are empty or not selected for the current Mode!
*Go into any config menu starting with FL (except for FLTX); (IE "FLx
BW", or "FLx FRQ" or "FLx GN" or "FLx ON")
Then while in that menu, tap 6/XFIL, and it will
What serial number is your K3? Older ones might need C84 on the front
panel changes if you are seeing lots of retries during FPF load.
You might try a different computer, or the slow 4800 baud rate.
Or if it is not the "many retires" issue, you might try doing a "Forced
MCU load" procedure, see
You can play with the Config Menu watt meter calibration high and low
numbers to get the switch-over point different.
IE where the Low power amp (LPA) switches to 100 amp (KPA3). This
happens at 12W "indicated".
The two Calibration numbers are for all bands!
So; Go into config menu WMTR LP
It is probably a bad encoder. Leaky pushbutton disrupting the switch matrix.
To confirm, try the switchtest in the config menu.
If switchtest is OK, some modes don't allow you to change the width,
try SSB I believe.
If it is the encoder, replace all 4. If it is an older radio, send it in
and
We still have them, K3STFNR
It comes up on the website.
It is for mechanical vibration pickup dampening, mainly needed on the
Main as that is used in TX.
Keith WE6R
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There are two jumpers on J66 (either wire ones in the socket,,, OR on
OLD boards, you cut jumpers on the RF board).
See schematic and see the silk screen for jumpers W1 & W2
It is nice to have a receiver there because it bypasses the LPF
circuitry, a MUST for Lowfer operation!
I jack IN there
Hi all;
Very good troubleshooting Martin.
That is not a common failure and those BYPASS caps are used everywhere.
0.1 uF,25V,20%,Y5V,0603,SMD Elecraft part; E530222. Digikey
490-1575-2-ND
Anything close is fine (and probably fine without it).
Keith WE6R
Hi Al;
Most likely is the little Sub-In board is off a row of pins.
Or possibly the KXV3 has a missed pin.
Or one of the little black cube chokes (L1,2,&3) on the Sub-In board got
knocked off.
(I assume you have the KXV3B in "nor" and you have tapped 9 while in
that menu to toggle the "B" on.
To test,;
Set SPKRS+PH to yes, if audio comes back, then headphones are plugged
in, OR the switch in the front or rear phones socket is bad and telling
the brain a plug in in.
If setting SPKRS+PH to yes and still no audio, try tapping 1 while in
that menu to toggle the sensing between early
Hi Peter;
It definitely had one bad FET on the LPA when it was here, I do not see
in the report that it was intermittent, so I may not have looked closely
for those types of failures.
If you are sure it makes MW power when it is in the failure state, then
it is highly likely the LPA.
Inspect
Hi Mike;
Can you go to config menu item "FW REVS" an tell me what you see please?
If you are still getting the HI CUR warning, the U1 audio chip on the
DSP board may have partly failed and will be getting HOT!
It can heat enough to MELT the DSP board and cause an internal short
that destroys
Sounds like a bad encoder and was just coincidental to the FW update.
On the 4 small push-button encoders, tap each one and you will probably
find one that does not toggle the LEDs.
The old encoders leak resistance internally and it disrupts the
push-button matrix causing wrong button pushes.
Here is the history on the 8.215 trap on the KAT3 KANT3 boards.
Overview; There is an 8.215 trap on the RF board, the trap on the
KAT/KANT3 boards was an additional trap that was later found to be way
overkill.
On the KAT3 ATU, it is on the antenna side of the tuner, so it is
subject to high
You may also have to throw the switch on the KIO3B Main board if you
only have the USB cable.
Very old boards did not have this switch, in that case you will need the
RS232 interface to the RJ-45 jack and set RS232 to 38400.
See
Check the 8.215 trap on the KAT3 ATU. It is C10 and L10 on the older units.
They can burn as they are on the ant side of the ATU.
We eliminated that trap on the newer KAT3A (not needed).
In repairs we pull the coil and put a wire jumper in its place.
Keith WE6R
If you don't use the clock, just take the CR2032 battery out!
Save money and ease your minds about leaking.
However, I have never seen one leak in the thousands of K3's I have
worked on.
I have only replaced the battery upon request as I have never seen one
actually be dead.
There is no
Hi Drew;
That sounds cool. Can you post your Macro strings please? That would
save me some time.
Thanks! Keith WE6R
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