I'm glad you found the cause and a fix.
I'll add that, in my experience, 40M is always the most problematic band
for causing RFI problems. In a vehicle or home, it seems that a LOT of
'stuff' is sensitive to 40M. 160M comes in second for that status.
73,
Rick nk7i
On 11/21/2023 2:55 PM,
"I should be able to fix the problem with better decoupling and/or choking of
the breakout box connections."
Problem fixed by adding a 0.01 disc ceramic caps on each of the 4 RCA keyline
jacks on the breakout box. I should have included them when I built it.
Interesting problem though and all
On 11/21/2023 9:03 AM, Andy Durbin wrote:
I should be able to fix the problem with better decoupling and/or choking of
the breakout box connections.
That suggests bonding and grounding may not be sufficient. Every chassis
that is part of the station must be bonded together, and that bonded
Hi Clay:
I concur with your comments re cheap connectors. I have had cheap connectors
melt, short, go open and mechanically come apart. Fortunately these were in
the days of big old tube-based robust rigs.
I gave up on bargain connectors about 35 years ago. I’m happy to pay
substantially
I followed up on the RFI theory and quickly found a solution to the problem.
My TS-590S has a homebrew breakout box on the REMOTE connector. This breakout
box provides key line level shift and key line interrupt for my SteppIR. The
TS-590S ALC control line is on this cable but is not
NOT directly related, and MAY not be related AT ALL but consider
clearing the tuning solutions stored on a section of the band where it
oscillates and let it RE-tune at a power level JUST below what it was
oscillating at
Then turn her up and see if it still does it. Likely will, but
Listen to Jim, guys. THE most frustrating thing in troubleshooting is
when the "trouble" is in the cheap/low quality parts used in an assembly.|
ALWAYS buy the best you can find/afford. Buy the best; buy once. I have
a FEW more vendors than Jim, but his point is nonetheless valid and
should
Is the internal autotuner of the TS590S on?
- Jerry
On 2023-11-21 04:50, Andy Durbin wrote:
Thanks to those that replied with suggestions.
This morning I ran some additional testing. I found I could induce
the oscillation at 70 W KPA500 output power. With KPA500 switched to
STBY I
I found that the power for onset of oscillation is strongly dependent on
frequency:
7.01 C0,L0, SIDE T - max no osc 108 W
7.02 C0, L710, SIDE T - max no osc 118 W
7.03 C0, L710, SIDE T - max no osc 129 W
7.10 C0, L710, SIDE T - max no osc 222 W
7.20 C47, L820, SIDE T - max no osc unknown
"Perhaps check and see if the drive from the TS-590s is varying, or if the gain
of the KPA500 is changing. What does the output meter on the 590 say when this
happens?"
TS-590S power meter does not change nor does TS-590S indicated SWR. However, I
did find that TS-590S ALC reading is cycling.
Perhaps check and see if the drive from the TS-590s is varying, or if
the gain of the KPA500 is changing. What does the output meter on the
590 say when this happens?
73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 21/11/2023 14:50, Andy Durbin wrote:
Thanks to those that replied with suggestions.
This morning I ran some additional testing. I found I could induce the
oscillation at 70 W KPA500 output power. With KPA500 switched to STBY I could
run 100 W from my TS-590S with no anomalies. The only change in the antenna
system
On 11/20/2023 8:00 PM, Rick NK7I wrote:
In that search, high on the list of suspects (right up there with
failure of any antenna elements) is damage from tiny livestock (mice,
rats, birds that may have gotten into the attic or bugs like mud wasps);
chewed wires, cables and insulators.
More
Andy,
You've answered your own question. If it doesn't happen when the entire
rig system transmits into a dummy load, but has problems while connected
to an antenna; you know where to look.
In that search, high on the list of suspects (right up there with
failure of any antenna elements)
This is really strange.The only thing I can think of is some kind of
feedback to the TS-590s ALC circuitry caused by common mode current on
the feedline. An easy test would be to connect a common mode choke at
the output of the KAT500 and see if the problem goes away. Does the
antenna have
Exactly right, Joe.
AND, the crystal filters in the K3 are not ideal. Soon after I started
running RTTY with my K3s in 2008, I saw incidental AM resulting from the
ripple in the stock 2.7 kHz 5-pole filter. When I replaced it with a 2.8
kHz 8-pole filter, which is flatter, but still not
On 7/23/2023 11:48 AM, Gmail wrote:
Unlike many other digital modes, FT8 is a constant carrier, constant
envelope mode.
This is true for any "N of M tone" FSK mode where N is 1. However,
the DSP filtering in both the K3 and K4 has a finite delay which
causes some "spreading" of energy from
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On
Behalf Of N2TK via Elecraft
Sent: Saturday, 20 May, 2023 15:51
To: m...@sj2w.se; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power spike early K3
I had the same problem with the K3/KPA1500 combination. I recalibrated the
K3. Then I made sure I don't run the K3 at exactly 5W or 50W
I had the same problem with the K3/KPA1500 combination. I recalibrated the K3.
Then I made sure I don't run the K3 at exactly 5W or 50W. The problem has not
reappeared.N2TK, Tony
-Original Message-
From: Mikael Larsmark
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, May 20, 2023 3:45 am
I had a similar problem and traced it to voltage sag under load at the K3. The
power supply was good under load but there was too much loss in the stock cable
which was wired directly to the PS. I replaced it with a heavier, shorter
cable. I found that I had to run the TX gain calibration twice
Hi Mike,
I saw that you had posted a similar question
in January 2023 and had some suggestions
including running the TX Gain calibration, which
you did, but apparently without effect on the
spiking.
There have been numerous reports of
TX power spikes on first dit or first voice sound.
Some found
There was an issue with the original knobs on K3.
Contact service, and they should send you a new kit of knobs.
73,
-- Dave, N8SBE
On 2023-02-01 10:14, k...@kq8m.com wrote:
HI.
I have not been at my K3 for a couple of years and today I sat down to
update everything. Hopefully, I can work the
Hi guys,
I did try TX GAIN CAL and it failed on 30m. I had an issue in CQWW CW where
one of the ops placed the radio on 30m where there is no BPF so we burned
the classic D25 diode. I have replaced that and have gotten RX back and all
bands seem to work OK. However 30m behaves strangely also on
The first thing to do is run TX GN CAL. That usually stops the spikes. My
K3 #2254 began needing that every few months, and sometimes I had to run TX
GN CAL multiple times. Eventually, at Wayne's suggestion, I sent it in for
repair. They found some burned resistors in the LPA SWR circuit,
I have #1504 and it does not add any spike ever. I have no idea what
would cause a spike. Does this happen on CW?
Dave K1WHS
On 1/19/2023 5:55 AM, Mikael Larsmark wrote:
Hi,
I have 5 pcs Elecraft K3 in my shack and one of them, which is a very early
model (serial #1938) suffers from quite a
I have a K3 SNR 1595 and it does not have power spikes.
Maybe TX gain cal will solve it as 4X6GP writes.
/ Jim SM2EKM
On 19/01/2023 12:55, Mikael Larsmark wrote:
Hi,
I have 5 pcs Elecraft K3 in my shack and one of them, which is a very
early
model (serial #1938) suffers from quite a power
The first thing that is always recommended for this is to run the TX
Gain Calibration in the K3 Utility.
73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
Formerly K2VCO
CWops no. 5
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
On 19/01/2023 12:55, Mikael Larsmark wrote:
Hi,
I have 5 pcs Elecraft K3 in my shack and one of
You can power the KAT500 directly from your station 12v power supply. If
the K3S is taken offline for service you won't have a way to use the KAT500
with your Icom backup radio using your current configuration.
John KK9A
Richard FlatHat W4KBX wrote:
Recently, I bought an IC-7300 as a backup
On 1/8/2023 10:35 PM, Richard wrote:
Normally, the KAT500 takes its DC power from the K3S. The easiest way
to power the KAT500 when using it with the 7300 is the have to K3S
powered up but not connected to any of the antennas.
I do it differently. I power the K3 (now K4) _and_ the KAT500 from
Hi Josep,
You might try running the Transmitter Gain calibration procedure which
is in the Elecraft K3 Utility Program. You must have a good dummy load
to do this, but otherwise it is all automatic. You just follow the
prompts from the program.
73,
Victor, 4X6GP
Rehovot, Israel
CWops #5
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On 10/10/2021 5:08 PM, Howard Hoyt wrote:
And this was an engineering decision with the Kx33: incorporate a large
choke inside the PS case and make it much larger and more expensive for
the small percentage of people who might need it or keep it small and
within the commonly available case
>>Jim, K9YC posted:
>>"I have one of these PSUs, but haven't tried to choke it."
And this was an engineering decision with the Kx33: incorporate a large
choke inside the PS case and make it much larger and more expensive for
the small percentage of people who might need it or keep it small and
ssage-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rich WC3T
> Sent: Friday, October 08, 2021 8:37 PM
> To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KX3
>
>&g
I would just keep the Astron-35 (I bought one in 1980 and still works).
But I upgraded to a Astron-50M years ago and it supplies the entire
shack (fused at 30A). I also use a 28v Astron for supplying 24v devices.
But Astron makes 8A and 10A switching supplies (we started swapping them
out
oun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rich WC3T
> Sent: Friday, October 08, 2021 8:37 PM
> To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KX3
>
>> I have used a Samlec 1223 with no RF noise apparent. And as for the A
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KX3
> I have used a Samlec 1223 with no RF noise apparent. And as for the Astrons
> that we all regret losing, those are linear analog and don’t do the noise
> thing. :)
__
Elecraf
“My Radio Shack supply is entirely quiet, it is a classic
straight-through design. No switching going on here.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD”
Beware of old linear supplies, unless yours is fitted with over
Voltage crowbar protection.
I too have a Pro Audio PSU and haven’t had any noise issues. It
My Radio Shack supply is entirely quiet, it is a classic
straight-through design. No switching going on here.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
-From: "Dan Presley"
To: "K2"
Cc:
Sent: Friday October 8 2021 10:42:44PM
Subject: Re: [El
The Radio Shack supplies are abysmally noisy. Don’t go there…the Pro Audio is
far superior.
Dan Presley 503-701-3871
danpresley@me. com
n7...@arrl.net
> On Oct 8, 2021, at 17:49, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 10/8/2021 4:14 PM, qr...@roadrunner.com wrote:
>> The ubiquitous Radio Shack 22-124A
I have used a Samlec 1223 with no RF noise apparent. And as for the Astrons
that we all regret losing, those are linear analog and don’t do the noise
thing. :)
> On Oct 8, 2021, at 20:49, Jim Brown wrote:
>
> On 10/8/2021 4:14 PM, qr...@roadrunner.com wrote:
>> The ubiquitous Radio Shack
On 10/8/2021 4:14 PM, qr...@roadrunner.com wrote:
The ubiquitous Radio Shack 22-124A (and its variants) power supply is
a perfect match for the KX-3. Manufactured by the millions and cheaper
than dirt on that watery place or under hamfest tables it meets the
current-handling needs of the KX-3.
The ubiquitous Radio Shack 22-124A (and its variants) power supply is
a perfect match for the KX-3. Manufactured by the millions and cheaper
than dirt on that watery place or under hamfest tables it meets the
current-handling needs of the KX-3.
72
Howard Kraus, K2UD
I have been operating for 2 or 3 years with a KX3/PX3 combination, with the
KXPA100 amplifier to bump my signal up when I need it. It works remarkably
well, far superior to my venerable old Icom 746 Pro. I have a Yaesu FT-101
that needs a little work, but it's still an old favorite.
The KX3 lends
"Elecraft offers a little switcher made by Powerwerx for $119"
https://elecraft.com/collections/power-supplies
This power supply appears to be very similar to several that are on the market.
I have the JETSTREAM JTPS31MB. If you look at the chassis you will see it has
punch-outs to
I'm another add on for the KX33 from Pro Audio Engineering. I've had
that supply pretty much since it came out and never had a single problem
or any noise from it. Howie also sells a splitter for it to allow
powering both the KX3 and PX3 from it, if you wind up with the PX3 in
the future. I
Paul,
The Astron is a real workhorse and a keeper if in good shape.
If you must go light/small and are just powering the KX3, I would point you to
Howie’s (ProAudio Engineering Kx33) power brick. It is nominally a 4A supply
in same form as the laptop power supplies. Mine is quiet and a solid
9
> To: Paul Huff
> Cc: Elecraft Email List
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KX3
>
> If it's just for the KX3, I recommend:
> https://proaudioeng.com/products/pae-kx33-low-rfi-ac-power-supply/
>
> On Fri, Oct 8, 2021 at 9:58 AM Paul Huff wrote:
>
> >
Paul,
The ProAudio Engineering Kx33 Power Supply is an excellent choice if you
are planning to run just the KX3.
73,
Henry - K4TMC
On Fri, Oct 8, 2021 at 9:57 AM Paul Huff wrote:
> My beautiful bride of 44 years is encouraging me to upgrade my shack to an
> Elecraft KX3. (Seriously, she is
If it's just for the KX3, I recommend:
https://proaudioeng.com/products/pae-kx33-low-rfi-ac-power-supply/
On Fri, Oct 8, 2021 at 9:58 AM Paul Huff wrote:
> My beautiful bride of 44 years is encouraging me to upgrade my shack to an
> Elecraft KX3. (Seriously, she is the one who brought it up!)
On 4/25/2020 8:21 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> Here is what I did to remedy the situation. I obtained two 10-32 x 2"
> brass screws from the hardware store. I got 4 nuts, 2 for each screw, 4
> flat washers, 2 for each screw and two wing nuts. I then cut the head
> off of each screw and
ie k3ICH
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net On
Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2020 2:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power supply V drop - was poor CW on K3S
"glass fuses"? You want to avoid the in-line cylindr
One point brought to my attention by Jack Brindle, has to do with the
indicated voltage on the K3S display. The manual page 57, ADC REF makes
it clear as to the calibration procedure and that if the ADC REF is not
correct, then display values, such as the rig's supply voltage may not
indicate
This is a huge misperception that is very dangerous! If the power supply
(PSU) doesn't have an in-line fuse on the 12VDC, then you're taking a grave
chance should a short occur in the cable between the PSU and radio. Ask
folks who have set their cars on fire.
Like a battery, there should be a
On 4/25/2020 12:19 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
... If this is a fixed installation and your power supply has some
form of overcurrent protection [e.g. crowbar], there may be no need
for any fuses in the power cable.
A crowbar circuit will short the output of the PS to prevent an
over-voltage
"glass fuses"? You want to avoid the in-line cylindrical cartridge
fuses, the holders almost always have too much resistance. Blade-type
automotive fuses are much better ... much more contact surface, much
more contact pressure, and a wiping action as you insert the fuse. A
drop of DeOxit
If it’s a regulated power supply with crowbar And the radio has a fuse why are
you using inline fuses?
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 25, 2020, at 10:04, Chuck Chandler wrote:
>
> Here's an update.
>
> I replaced the power cable running from the powerstrip with a 3-foot length
> with glass
Sadly, that is not always true. There is a remarkable dependence upon frequency
as well. The sweet spot on my K3S is at 7 MHz. The IMD is actually lower at
100W than at lower power. That said it goes to pot at 1.8 and 25 MHz but is
lower again at 28 MHz.
Wes N7WS
On 4/20/2020 1:55 PM,
Just adjust the voltage to 14.5 to 14.8 no load, usually via an internal
adjustment, and be done with it.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 4/20/2020 2:59 PM, Richard Donner wrote:
Hi Ken
Thanks for the info.
I am not in a rush yet. I noticed that the voltage is 13.4.. Maybe a
little higher might be
I'm using the Astron SS-30M for my station. Actually I have 2 of them
on the desk, one for the K3S and accessories and the other one for
another brand of radio and accessories. I have found they are reliable,
quiet and no RFI issue between 160M and 1296 MHz, including 144 MHz, 432
MHz.
73
Maybe find an old one that still working??
My Astron 50A analog PS has been run 24/7 for 16 years (or so) and
was in commercial use before (years?). Previous to it I bought an
Astron V35M (new in 1980) which lasted many years until blowing
(open) one of the rectifier diodes. It sits on my
On 4/20/2020 1:05 PM, Rick Bates, NK7I wrote:
Wayne has said that 14.2V is desirable (as read on the display, so
~14.4V at the source AND the input connector at the radio). This
provides a more clean signal.
That flies in the face of Ohm's law, which describes the IR voltage drop
in the
I have a couple DuraComm LP-25's. I've never had a single issue with
them. I adjusted a pot and took the voltage up to 14.5 volts.
The LP-25's are switching power supplies. I have not detected any
receiver noise, so they're clean in my setup. They have a cooling fan
which only comes on
I second IOTA.
I've used them in my RV, replacing another brand to get rid of the RFI. Mission
accomplished.
Disclaimer: IOTA is located in Tucson, and a long time ago in another life I
moonlighted for the founders in another startup company.
Wes N7WS
On 4/20/2020 12:51 PM, Ken
Simply verify that the panel voltage is the same was what a known meter
reads at the output, adjust the front panel meter as required. (Most
panel displays are off or simply not as accurate.) Then one can use a
permanent marker to place a line on the meter display, off the tip of
the needle
If you insert a jumper in the jack on the side it raises the voltage to
14.2.
Ken
WA2LBI
On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 3:59 PM Richard Donner
wrote:
> Hi Ken
> Thanks for the info.
> I am not in a rush yet. I noticed that the voltage is 13.4.. Maybe a
> little higher might be better. Not
The same supply is sold under the DURACOMM name. I believe there is a
pot accessible through a hole in the case to adjust the voltage.
My $0.02: I prefer supplies that are in a desktop case with meters for
current and voltage. The meters give me peace of mind and add
information and ambience
Wayne has said that 14.2V is desirable (as read on the display, so
~14.4V at the source AND the input connector at the radio). This
provides a more clean signal.
It's also important to not allow voltage sag under load (for the same
reasons).
Just make sure that if the power supply causes
Hi Ken
Thanks for the info.
I am not in a rush yet. I noticed that the voltage is 13.4.. Maybe a
little higher might be better. Not sure on the last point.
I will check what else they make
TU 73
Richard
On Mon, Apr 20, 2020 at 12:51 PM Ken Winterling wrote:
> Richard,
>
> I use an IOTA
Richard,
I use an IOTA DLS-55 SMPS power supply (
https://www.iotaengineering.com/dls55.htm). It provides 55 amps, doesn’t
produce RFI, is audibly quiet, and rugged. The dimensions are 9.7" x 6.7"
x 3.4" and the weight is 5.0 lbs. Mine is on 24/7/365. IOTA also makes
them in other output
In the event you have a very old K3 (serial number approx 3000 or earlier) you
might need to replace some plugs on the final amp. As has beensuggested the
first thing to do would be to contact Elecraft.
Good Luck.
BillK3WJV
On Sunday, April 12, 2020, 2:11:23 PM EDT, Nr4c wrote:
Thanks guys,
I will check that all again and contact elecraft as well.
happy eastern to you all and take care.
73s Erwin/DK5EW
William Hammond schrieb am 12.04.2020 20:15 (GMT +02:00):
> Hi Erwin,
> Some plenary troubleshooting might include making sure your power cables
> and
> connections
Contact Elecraft customer service.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Apr 12, 2020, at 12:55 PM, Erwin Witt - DK5EW wrote:
>
>
> Hi all,
>
> suddenly I can set the power of my K3/100W version with the power knob on
> shortwave only to max 12W and on 6m only to 8W.
>
> That all
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Hi Dick,
yes it is as I wrote: the setting in PA below line KPA3 is on "nor"
3's Erwin/DK5EW
RIchard Williams schrieb am 12.04.2020 18:57 (GMT +02:00):
>
>
> Erwin,
>
>
> In Config hold MENU in for about three seconds. Then use the B VFO knob
> and go to PA, and make sure it says PA nor.
Make sure the KP3A is active via the Menu.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 12, 2020, at 11:51 AM, Erwin Witt - DK5EW wrote:
>
>
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>
In the late 1980s, HP Labs was having wiring failures and fires in the cubicle
wiring. Someone visited from MIT Project Athena and made a side comment about
their wiring problems with computers at every desk. For a while, HP Labs had
extension cords strung everywhere to reduce the demand on the
Jim, Ok on that, I am a retired tradesman in the electrical industry, and
looking at why an antenna radiates best when reactance is zero leaving only
a resistance load (not taking radiation angle into account),
would seem to be because the voltage and current across the radiated load
are in phase
Dave,
The wire is #18 AWG.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/31/2020 7:28 PM, Dave Sublette wrote:
What size wire is used in the power cable supplied to the KX3? I see the
current rating numbers, but never the actual are size.
__
Elecraft mailing
Walter.
While I suspect that voltage requirements for the KX3 are similar to those of
the KX2, its a KX2 as the device in question.
And I agree with Don. The underlying issue here is why is the power supply
voltage so low? The KX2 (or KX3) shouldn’t draw more than around three Amps
under
Tommy,
That is too much voltage drop. Check all your power connections to be
sure they are tight. If the power supply terminals rotate even a little
bit, open the power supply and tighten the terminals securely.
Since the KX2 power control tries to maintain the set power, if the
voltage
Based on the KX3 specifications, it is designed to run at lower power for
full-carrier modes.
From the transmitter specifications on page 54 of the KX3 Owner’s Manual:
"5 W or less recommended for high-duty-cycle modes (FM, AM, DATA). Power will
automatically be reduced if PA temperature or
Based on a presentation by Eric at the West Valley Amateur Radio
Association, Elecraft tends to build their equipment to run at
full advertised power with digital modes. Their model is a RTTY
contester calling CQ with 60% to 70% of the time transmitting.
He indicated that the KPA1500 would run
Don't Elecraft recommend using lower power for high duty digital modes?
(Though FT8 us 15s bursts so not as high duty as some).
- Richard
On Mon, 18 Mar 2019 at 18:46, Tommy wrote:
>Ahhh, O.K., with my 13.2v Astron it's showing 10.3 - 10.8. I guess
> for now with this power supply I'll
Ahhh, O.K., with my 13.2v Astron it's showing 10.3 - 10.8. I guess
for now with this power supply I'll have to settle for 5 watts. Thank
you for the quick reply.
Tom - KB2SMS
On 3/18/19 2:36 PM, Walter Underwood wrote:
Set the display to show the power supply voltage and watch it while
Set the display to show the power supply voltage and watch it while you
transmit. The transmitter requires a voltage over 11 V for more than 5 W.
If the voltage is dropping below 11 V, that is the problem.
This in the specifications section of the KX3 manual.
wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
It's a simple visit to ohms law.
OR
Just grab a "kill a watt" tester and look at your current draw.
With a quick "in the head math" the 15 amp breaker will be fine.
Remember the 30amp supply is at 13.8v not 117v ac the panel breaker is at.
Again
Ohms law.
BTW : glad you asked the question
On 6/14/2018 10:18 AM, ANDY DURBIN wrote:
When I added my KPA500 to my TS-590S station I found the drop in mains voltage
unacceptable.
I'd bet that was because of the IR drop in the long #14 wires feeding
the outlet (and maybe other stuff running off that circuit).
Yes, 240VAC is better,
John, I didn’t think you were suggesting changing breakers. The original post
asked if he could change out breakers to a 20A or 30A breaker.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 14, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>
>> On 6/14/2018 4:14 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
>> It should be fine to run the
On 6/14/2018 4:14 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
It should be fine to run the KPA500 at reduced power using your existing
15 amp outlet, unless you have a lot of other stuff plugged in.
No power reduction is required -- let's do the simple math. The KPA
draws about 10A at 120v keydown. That 12v
NO! The wire will get very hot, and you may burn down your house as a
result.
On 6/13/2018 8:02 PM, Michael Gillen via Elecraft wrote:
2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker? 30A?
__
Elecraft mailing
I did not suggest changing the breaker. I wrote either use what he has at
reduced output or install at least one new dedicated circuit.
John KK9A
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy 7 edge, an AT 4G LTE smartphone.
On Thu, Jun 14, 2018 at 8:26 AM, Harlan Sherriff
wrote:
> Michael,
> Do NOT replace
Michael,
Do NOT replace the breaker with a larger current breaker UNLESS the wiring is
rated for the extra current.
15A = 14 gage wire
20A = 12 gage wire
30A = 10 gage wire
Harlan
K4HES
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 14, 2018, at 7:14 AM, "j...@kk9a.com" wrote:
>
> It should be fine to run
.qth.net On
Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Wednesday, June 13, 2018 11:16 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] power requirements for a K3S, KPA500, KAT500, P3?
On 6/13/2018 8:02 PM, Michael Gillen via Elecraft wrote:
> Will 15A house line supply enough juice for
Thanks for the thorough answer Jim!
Michael
KK6RWK
> On Jun 13, 2018, at 8:15 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
>
>> On 6/13/2018 8:02 PM, Michael Gillen via Elecraft wrote:
>> Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500, and in
>> the future a P3 Panadaper?
>
> Yes.
>
>> 2)
I understand not to change any breakers. Roger that.
Thank you for the quick replies!
Michael
KK6RWK
> On Jun 13, 2018, at 8:25 PM, David Christ wrote:
>
> DO NOT change the breaker
>
>
> I am concerned about your so blithely talking about just changing the
> breaker. The breaker is
DO NOT change the breaker
I am concerned about your so blithely talking about just changing the breaker.
The breaker is there to protect the wire and is sized according to the wire.
Do not increase the size of the breaker without verifying what the wire gauge
is. Quite likely if the
On 6/13/2018 8:02 PM, Michael Gillen via Elecraft wrote:
Will 15A house line supply enough juice for the K3S, KPA500, KAT500, and in
the future a P3 Panadaper?
Yes.
2) If not can I get away with replacing the breaker with a 20A breaker?
Only if all the wiring on that breaker is #12 or
James,
I can't believe that no one has replied to your question yet. The
adapter is a "standard part". They are a "Tensility 10-01065". You
should be able to find that on Google. They are definitely available
from DigiKey as part number 839-1167-ND. This is the part I use for the
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