Re: [Elecraft] Re Elecraft 20M SSB Net

[Ed Cole]

Listened 4/14 on 14.303.5 at 1800utc and heard no one.
No propagation.

73, Ed - KL7UW
K3 + KXPA100 + Hygain Th3mk4 at 50-foot
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[Elecraft] Re Elecraft 20M SSB Net

[Ed Cole]

Eric, WB9JNZ, was off in Norway so Brian, K1NW, stood in as net control 
with relays John, N6JW, and Steve, WM6P. Odd propagation and heavy QSB. 
The net will meet again next Sunday at 1800Z on 14.3035 MHz.



Comment: been a long time since trying to check-in.  In past only heard 
John - N6JW who relayed my check-in to NC.


Maybe try again to see if 20m propagation at 10am local-time has gotten 
better.  I run K3+KXPA100 (100w) to Hygain TH3mk4 at 50-foot.  Not a 
loud signal out of South-central Alaska (70-mi South of Anchorage).


73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] Re: Elecraft 80M SSB Net Report

[Ed Cole]

Often read the reports from Elecraft Nets and kind of wondered what the 
"usual" maximum range for stations on the 80m SSB Net?


I'm in southcentral AK so do not expect to ever hear the net which 
appears centered on MI (I was K8MWA 1958-1968 in MI).


Late night 80m prop often brings in West Coast stations (W7 and W6) so 
that would suggest a couple thousand miles.  Normal daytime 80m is about 
400 miles up here.


Also seems as a West Coast 80m net could co-exist with the current 
Elecraft 80m SSB Net.  Be nice if NC were located in NW (Seattle?) as 
that might reach us 1300 miles to the north.


I have checked in the 20m SSB Net in the past with 100w and 3-element 
yagi at 50-foot.  Building a 1200w linear this winter (might improve 
chances??).


I mostly do VHF-SSB or EME but with the great cycle-25 might enjoy what 
it brings in!


73, Ed - KL7UW
https://www.kl7uw.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Astron RS-35M Hum

[Ed Cole]

Glad to hear of the fix!

My Astron 50M rack-mount vibrates and hums at times, but I cures with 
mechanical lifting the unsupported back.  I will install rack rails when 
I move to the new hamshack (in a couple weeks).


I have an old GE MASTR-II repeater PS that hums at startup but tapers 
off after warming.  15v@35A its a brute with massive transformer.  But I 
just use it as bench supply intermittently, so live with the hum.


I have two of these and the second one will get installed at my 2m-eme 
tower base to drive the Alfa-Spid RAK azimuth rotator (220-feet from new 
hamshack). A HP "blade" 50V/50A switching supply also located there to 
feed my 1200w 2m sspa (120-foot No. 2awg 240vac line runs from house).


I have an Astron VM35 that blew a diode and seems to have a ground fault 
after repair.  Maybe get around to look at it someday.  It made a nice 
bench supply when it worked.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] Fwd: K2 Band Data

[Ed Cole]

wrong link: https://www.unifiedmicro.com/
apparently marketed by DXEngineering

 Forwarded Message 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Band Data
Date: Fri, 1 Sep 2023 12:29:42 -0800
From: Ed Cole 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Not help for the K2 band data, but thought there might be interest in 
how I am interfacing my K3/10 band data to a 1.2 kW W6PQL amp LP filter 
bank: http://www.kl7uw.com/HF-6M_AMP.jpg


Unified Microsystems makes an interface:
www.microsystems.com/decoder.html

73, Ed - KL7UW



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Band Data

[Ed Cole]

Not help for the K2 band data, but thought there might be interest in 
how I am interfacing my K3/10 band data to a 1.2 kW W6PQL amp LP filter 
bank: http://www.kl7uw.com/HF-6M_AMP.jpg


Unified Microsystems makes an interface:
www.microsystems.com/decoder.html

73, Ed - KL7UW



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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Headset For A K3

[Ed Cole]

Just a couple more comments on the Antion ModMic:

I plug into the rear mic jack on my K3 and the front jack of the KX3 
using an adapter cable.


The tiny boom mic has a foam cover for resisting wind-blast.  Also has 
two settings: normal mic and cardiode pattern.  On-air reports the 
normal setting has nicer sound, though both are good sounding.


I have had not much use of the boom mic so far.

One nice feature of the boom is easily detachable if you do not need a 
boom mic with the headset (uses an earth-magnet).


I also own a Bose QC headset for flying but its not as comfortable as 
the Sony headset.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] A Good Headset For A K3

[Ed Cole]

i Normally use my Heil HM10 desk mic and ancient Sony MDR-V600 headphones.

But several years ago investigated finding a headset with boom mic.  The 
Yamaha cm500 howled in feedback when put on over my hearing aids (even 
not plugged into the K3).


I ended up attaching an Antion ModMic to my old faithful Sony headset. 
Got good on-air reports on the audio.  I added a hand PTT button in the 
mic cord.


Main use is for outdoor operation with my KX3 which is my 2m IF on 
10-GHz operations with tripod-mounted dish.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Grounding, Lightning & Attic Antennas

[Ed Cole]

Well...I'm blessed to live in a region with No* lightening activity, so 
generally have ignored doing all the preventative work.


*We hear thunder about once every 4-5 years and see lightening even less 
often.


But winter wind brings static build-up on exposed metal (antennas and 
wires) so isolating sensitive electronics is desirable.  Diode discharge 
in coax lines or outright grounding when not in use.


Apparently a static burst (or power-line surge) took out the ground 
choke in my KIO3A RS-232 I/F a few years ago and also got the IC (fixed 
by K3).  I will install my new KIO3B soon to provide direct USB control 
of the K3 (KIO3A to become spare).


I do use ground rods for safety grounding and noise and computers are on 
UPS.


Phone (internet) and power is buried in my area.
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[Elecraft] KI03B order

[Ed Cole]

KIO3BUPKT-WL_KIO3B Upgrade Kit for K3:

Confirmed my order a couple days ago.  Been a long wait but happy to 
finally que up to my name! Not sure if I will install or just hold as 
spare for my KI03A.


73, Ed - KL7UW
I ordered several months after the order period closed.
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Re: [Elecraft] Vertical antennas Was: KX3 and KPA1500, compatibility

[Ed Cole]

Couple comments:
Vertical radials:  I put up a top-loaded (very) short vertical for 630m 
(475-KHz).  Top "hat" was two parallel 130-foot horizontal wires and 
vertical was three parallel wires 43-foot long (inverted-L).  Used a BIG 
base loading coil but needed radials that normally would be over 
600-foot long (1/4WL).  I only had room for 70-foot radials.  I was told 
to get some 3-foot wide chicken wire fencing and lay that out on top of 
the ground for radials.


I put three down and also connected to the shield of my 120-foot run of 
1-5/8 inch hardline as fourth radial.  That system worked great and I 
was heard 4,000 miles away in Buffalo, NY (EIRP of 4w) on 500-KHz long 
duration CW.


My new 630m antenna will be a "T" vertical with four top wires formed by 
80 & 40m dipoles.  Feedline will be 40-foot 300-ohm open wire which will 
be shorted for use as a vertical and use the same base loading coil. 
Radial system will be wires lain in the lawn with staples from 
DXEngineering (so lawn can be mowed).  Start out with six radials but 
can add to that over time to improve the antenna.  The vertical will 
also set up for 160m use by using a different coil tap.


I once had a 4BTV which I bolted to the front bumper of my truck and it 
worked quite well without radials or counterpoise (heard Antarctica from 
Alaska on 20m SSB from a campground setup).  No longer have it (use 
Hygain TH3mk4 at 50-foot, instead).


73, Ed - KL7UW

---
Now, it has one "radial".  Actually an Ufer ground, consisting of a
concrete slab, 70 feet long by 10 feet wide, with 80 feet
of 8AWG copper wire buried in it.  The slab is actually a solar
collection field for our swimming pool.   I left a space in the middle
for the antenna.  I was going to do radials, but had a sudden thought -
I'd be a fool if I didn't bury some wire in that concrete.  So I ran to
the local hardware store, grabbed a roll of 8AWG off their rack, and
strung it around the site, hooking it up to the rebars.  Then they came
and poured the concrete.
- Jerry, KF6VB
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Re: [Elecraft] Starting to Ship K3 & K3S Option Last Time Buy, Orders (3/1/23)

[Ed Cole]

*KIO3B & KSYN3A* - Now Shipping (finally!):
We received *100%* of both items late last week from our Calif. PCB
assembly subcontractor and we are testing, packaging and shipping them now.
--
Once we finish the prepaid deposit orders, we'll be contacting our waitlist
orders and going through the same process to confirm shipping info, collect
funds etc. We will post here and via our newsletter much more often as we
work through the pile of orders. (% of deposit orders, and then the same
for waitlist orders. )
---
I'm one of the wait list for the KIO3B, so hope I am not too far down 
the list for this shipment.  My KIO3A was repaired by Elecraft in summer 
2020 and is working FB.  Just decided it would be prudent to have a backup.


I may swap out for the B version to try the USB connection for running 
wsjt-x.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 no power out

[Ed Cole]

A couple days ago I encountered that kind of issue:  I had the K3 in 
DATA mode "looking at the psk-31 mode" and went to shift back to USB, 
but the XMIT/TUNE button yielded no output.


Checked thru the list you provided and checked that I was in ANT1 output 
as I have run xvtr mode in the past.  No output into my KXPA100/KXAT100; 
no input to re-tune the ATU...huh?  Manually keying PTT switched the 
KXPA100 into tx.  So finally, I recycle the power button on the K3 and 
it resumed normal operation (TUNE worked; SSB worked, ta-da).


I have noted that changing bands with the K3/KXPA100 combo the ATU 
doesn't always recognize the freq shift (until I recycle power on the 
KXPA100).  I'm guessing that's because there is no control line from the 
K3 to the amp like what is used with the KX3 (which is really nice when 
mobile and amp is under the back seat).


Anyway sometimes recycling power works!

73, Ed - KL7UW


Josep,

Please check the obvious things:

1) Is 'test mode' on?
2) Is the power level turned to zero?
3) Is the VOX on (for CW)?
4) Are you using the right antenna selection?
5) Is your key plugged in/wiring OK?

I know some of this is really basic, but sometimes in the heat of
battle, something gets overlooked.

73,

-- Dave, N8SBE
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Re: [Elecraft] K4 recommendation - wait for HD or no?

[Ed Cole]

On the subject of two radios operating in close proximity:

I have a K3/10 (12w version) that I use with a KXPA-100 on 6m or HF.

I have noted the noise level of the K3 S-meter rise about one s-unit 
when I transmit on 2m with the IC-9700 + 100w TE amplifier into a 
high-gain 2m vertical about 100-foot away from the 3-element 6m yagi. 
K3 is on 50.125 in SSB mode, but both radios physically on the same table.


I've not been overly concerned, as trying to receive 6m while 
transmitting on 2m is not a normal operating situation for me.


K3 is updated with latest Synthesizers (two).

I suppose cable radiation could be the cause vs antenna-antenna pickup. 
Also have not tested IC-9700 harmonic output.  Testing with K3 connected 
to my 500w Bird term probably would reveal this.


Anyway thought it curious behavior for the K3 (SN 4340).

73, Ed - KL7UW
may be sort-term situation as the shack will be moved into a new 
location in a couple months with new cables and grounding.

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Re: [Elecraft] Diversity

[Ed Cole]

One VERY IMPORTANT reason I chose the K3 with sub Rx was the fact the 
two receivers were in coherent phase, whereas Flex radio had two Rx but 
not in total phase.


I think diversity is tossed around as a loosely defined process.

In 2012 when I wanted a dual-Rx radio to process dual-polarity signal 
for use by MAP65, K3 was the only "game" available "off-shelf".  Since 
access is not provided to the IQ data stream in the K3, I had to resort 
to running two phase-locked LP-Pan (SDR) on the 1st IF's.  I had to 
modify the LP-Pan to have both in phase-lock on 8.215 MHz.


A few years later the IQ+ was introduced for use on 144 and 432 dual-Rx. 
 I is a SDR.  But one still would need a separate transmitter to operate.


Here is a block diagram of how I used my K3 (in diversity mode) in a 
dual-polarity adaptive receiver running MAP65:

http://www.kl7uw.com/MAP65.htm

Recently, I explored the SDR-DUO for use for noise cancelling and noted 
with adding ext ref, the two Rx were in phase-lock.  Later, I noted it 
tuned up to 3-GHz so would be usable on ham freq up 13cm (2.3 GHz).  I'm 
considering getting one primarily as a RA receiver on 21cm (1420-MHz).


I suspect there are more choices out there for diversity Rx, now days.

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Two-meter Radio Needed

[Ed Cole]

I have had several 2m radios (HT's and mobiles).

to be equivalent to a 706 you are looking for an all-mode (usually 
mobile or desk model).  I have had the IC-211 (pretty much obsolete, now 
days), FT-847, FT-736R, and my K3 + DEMI transverters.


The K3+DEMI is pretty much dedicated to eme use so I recently bought a 
IC-9700 to replace the aged FT-736R.  I love it for SSB or FM usage. But 
its not cheap ($1500 range).  But you do not need amplifiers with it.


73, ED - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & K3S Options Last Time Buy Update,, (12/02/2022

[Ed Cole]

Well, I found the cause of the clicking (but not what is clicking).

I use two almost identical computers (DELL Inspiron desk tops).  One is 
for general Internet use, e-mail, etc.  the other is dedicated to ham 
radio sw.  The K3 is connected to the later one.  So I decided to try a 
different USB port (4 ports on back, 2 on front) and the clicking 
stopped.  I had disconnected a USB cable to do this.  When I reconnected 
it the clicking started back up.


That cable goes to my SDR-IQ receiver.  Apparently the two radios are 
interacting (maybe trying to connect to the same port?).  Anyway, simple 
solution is to run SDR-IQ on computer A and K3 on computer B.  Maybe I 
will explore this deeper at a later time.


This was not the start-up port testing that windows does.  This was 
non-stop clicking as long as K3 was connected (wether powered On or 
OFF).  Obvious it was computer generated as it stopped if computer 
shut-down or USB cable disconnected from K3.


curious that the clicking appeared to not interfere with K3 operation or 
running computer sw (like wsjt-x).


we can close this topic.

Ed -KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 & K3S Options Last Time Buy Update, (12/02/2022)

[Ed Cole]

Nice to hear about.

I contacted sales@elecraft regarding getting on the KI03B list (more 
than a year ago) and was told, at that time I would be added.


I have the KI03A (original with my K3) which Elecraft repaired about two 
years ago and has worked well, so far.  I decided I should have a backup 
so ordered the B board (A NLA).


But not being one of the original list, but an add-on, I wonder if 
inventory will be sufficient to fill my order?


I encountered a strange phenomena, as the K3 would constantly click 
whenever the computer I/F cable (from Elecraft) was connected and 
computer turned on.  I have 4 USB ports on rear of computer and 2 on 
front.  Moving to a front USB connector ceased the clicking.  BTW the 
clicking appears not to affect the K3 operation (port uses Com5).


I use my K3 on FT8 and for eme (JT65 or Q65), so very important the 
computer I/F works correctly. B version uses direct USB/USB interface so 
might not be an issue.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Running high power

[Ed Cole]

I only have one RFI issue with my K3+KXPA100: running 80w on 50.125 SSB.

Seems my wife has her portable radio tuned to 100.1 MHz FM in the next 
room.  50.125 x2 = 100.25 "ouch"!


Antenna is 20-foot high on tower attached to end of the house.

Guess I need a "good" harmonic filter.

I had one on my Harris 1000w 6m amp (converted ch.2 TV amp), but it was 
sold with the amp.


When I get my MRF-1K50H LDMOS amp running 1200w on 160-6m will be 
interesting to see how well the LP filters do. spring, next year>


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Yamaha Headphone

[Ed Cole]

I can see this has really drifted off topic.

MY first phone radio (1960) was a WWII surplus ARC-1 that a ham friend 
modified to 144-MHz for AM.  Ran 20w with 820's.  The hand mic was 
certainly a carbon mic.


First mic I bought for ham radio, I splurged and got an EV-664 Cardioid 
dynmaic. It was all metal and designed for a metal tube base mount. 
Sure put out sweet AM in 1966 with my Johnson 6N2 running 150w on 2m.


For my FT-847 (bought in 1998) I got a Heil HM-10.  Still use it with my 
K3 (SN4043) bought in 2010.


"and that is the rest of the story"!

73, ED - KL7UW (Happy Turkey Day)
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?

[Ed Cole]

PS:  Only the mains line is aluminum and connections treated with 
antioxidant paste.  All new wiring in the new hamshack is copper (12-2 
for 120vac and 10-3 for 240vac).


The 3000w Meanwell 50v PS is served with a short 10-3 line to a 30A 
twist-lock receptacle in a floor mounted utility box with three foot 8-3 
jumper to the PS (All copper).  Max load is 12.5A; fused at 15A. 
Meanwell has internal overload and overtemp auto shutdown.


Main thermostat (3000w) is programmable, so heat load will only be 
highest when the area is occupied.  The workshop has manual thermostat 
which can be turned off when shop not in use (dividing wall is insulated 
between hamshack and workshop).


The building will have a monitored (24/7) security system with smoke 
monitors.  Monitor service calls police/fire dept if no one answers the 
phone.  Two FD stations within five miles.


I guess I could add thermistors to the mains contacts to alert overtemp. 
 I use such a system on my QRO amp heatsinks to protect the amps 
(auto-overtemp shutdown of B+).


I will monitor initial application of 240vac power to look for problems.
In my college years I was a Electrician assistant for one summer job and 
got a good practical education installing ckts (even 440 industrial).


Thanks for all the comments!

Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Voltage?

[Ed Cole]

On the general subject of house wiring, loads, and resulting voltage:

I am wiring my new hamshack with 240vac mains extension from the house.
I selected three No. 2 awg aluminum lines (copper not commonly used 
these days).  These are approx 1/4-inch diameter.


That is rated for 90A (in general).  Resistance is 0.318 ohms/1000-feet 
so my 120-foot run has 0.0382 ohms.  At 50A this results in a voltage 
drop of 1.9v.  My service voltage is 243VAC.


Estimation of max load at the new hamshack/workshop calculates as 36.5A. 
 Maximum will likely never exist as not everything will be activated 
simultaneously, but good design is for max load.


Largest load is electric baseboard heat (4000w); 50v PS is next (3000w).
All my QRO amps are LDMOS and run about 2500w dc-input.  I use three of 
these switching PS, but only one at a time.


Info on my website: www.kl7uw.com

73, Ed - KL7UW

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Re: [Elecraft] Recommendation for Microphone for K3s?

[Ed Cole]

I also bought the Antlion Modmic.  Previously,  tried the CM500 and they 
caused my hearing aids to "howl" in feedback (not even connected to a 
radio).


The Modmic uses a tiny earth magnet that attaches to my revered old Sony 
stereo headset.  The mic boom clicks to the magnet securely.  I tested 
both normal and cardiod pattern settings with good reports with my K3.


Comes with two lengths extension wires, PTT module, and 1/4 to 3.5mm 
stereo adapter, all in a neat zipped carrying case (for when do not want 
a boom mic). Mic has wind-blast foam cover for operating outdoors.


I mainly bought it for using with my KX3 operating portable mw shots 
with small tripod-mounted dish on SSB.  Also, good for SSB Contesting or 
running a net when you want hands free for logging.


73, Ed - KL7UW



If I is was not clear - that i the beauty of the ModMic you can add it
to any headphones. And it does not damage the headphones and when you
remove the mic the attachment point is small and does not affect
the headphones in anyway.  So I can use my Bose on the airplanes and
then pop the mic on them when I get to the ham staiton.  And it easy
to take off when I am not on voice modes.

https://antlionaudio.com/products/modmic-uni


--
George Fremin III - K5TR
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[Elecraft] K3 has ticking sound

[Ed Cole]

I thought this might be of interest:

I use my K3 for digital modes which requires a USB/RS232 conversion 
cable.  A couple years ago my FTDI cable quit working and also one I 
bought locally would not work.


I had a Western Mountain Nomic soundcard which came with a Prolific 
cable, so I tried it with my K3 and it worked (for awhile).


The computer would shut off the com port after running about 4-hours, 
and only way to restore was to plug into a different USB jack (and 
different com port).


Then, lately, my K3 would begin ticking whenever the computer was turned 
on.  It sounds like a mini relay being switched 2x per second.  Radio 
ticked whether turned on or off.  Only went away if I pulled the com 
cable or shut down the computer.  Almost had me wondering if Elecraft 
installed timer.


My first thought it was PTT being toggled, but PTT works normal even 
with radio ticking.  I could not find anything being affected as far as 
the radio functions.


So I reasoned the problem was the cable and ordered a new KUSB cable; 
arrived two days ago.  It works fine and no ticking.


73, Ed - KL7UW
PS: see my use of the Nomic with the KX3:
http://www.kl7uw.com/KX3_Computer_Interface.htm
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Re: [Elecraft] Lighting

[Ed Cole]

Another anecdote:

Summer of 1981 I was working for the BLM Alaska Wildfire Center in 
Fairbanks as a radio tech.  That summer a Class-A fire started near the 
town of Livengood and only three miles away from the Alaska Pipeline 
that brings crude oil from the north shore down to Valdez.  There was 
great concern that the fire would reach the pipeline so large response 
was activated.  I was assigned as the Radio Officer for this.


The main base camp was set up on a 2400-foot high ridge that overlooked 
the fire.  We had a tent dispatch center consisting of two vertical VHF 
antennas mounted on two 30-foot fiberglass "Hot Sticks" (so name as the 
telescoped from 8-foot and primarily used by power line workers for high 
tension lines).  From this contact was made over 75-miles to the BLM Base.


A wind storm generated considerable static electricity such that the 
HT's lying on the ground would draw a six inch arc if one were to try 
picking up the radio.  Initially being told by one of the dispatchers 
that the "radio bit her", I scoffed that a 6v radio could do that and 
promptly demonstrated my "intelligence" by getting shocked when I tried 
to pick one HT up.  Took me a bit to work out what was happening.  There 
was a pause in dispatch for almost an hour.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Any progress on K3 modules?

[Ed Cole]

Howard-WA4PSC. and all:

Just had a personal experience that show this:  I ordered 15 ferrite 
beads in an order to Digi-Key on April-18, this year.  They were 
back-ordered  an I received notice they are shipping them, today!  Only 
a four month delay.  Good thing I hadn't started on that 1200w amplifier 
kit, yet.


73, Ed - KL7uW
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Re: [Elecraft] Any progress on K3 modules?

[Ed Cole]

Group 3:
KXV3B, KBPF3A, P3TX Monitor, KAT3A:, KPA3A, 10-14 weeks
---

Rough calculation from May 1 to August 20 is 15 weeks, so if parts 
arrived as was predicted in May, these should be in production.


I'm on the waiting list for a KXV3B.  After all the discussion on the 
sensitivity of this module to taking a hit, I decided to have a backup 
for my KXV3A.


It failed unexpectedly in 2020 and was repaired for me by Elecraft 
(taking about two months).


This module is essential for my eme use of digital modes.  This is 90% 
of my use of my K3.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] switchbox KX3 to signalink/mike+headphones

[Ed Cole]

I made something similar:  I wanted to breakout the mic PTT line from my 
IC9700 to control a sequencer (which was already wired to control 
preamps, TR relays and amplifier PTT's).


I found 8-pin connectors on Amazon that would mate to the IC9700 mic 
jack, used RG-174 for shielded cable for the mic audio jumper inside a 
small aluminum box and used cat-5e for mic cable jumper from radio to 
switch box and added a clamp-on ferrite bead at the radio end (for ac 
hum/noise rejection).


I used 4-pin mic connectors to route the PTT to/from the sequencer (and 
using more cat-5e for that jumper).  I added a toggle switch to defeat 
radio PTT if I was running my K3 with the sequencer to avoid accidental 
keying of the IC9700 by the sequencer.

http://www.kl7uw.com/IC9700_Hints

For interfacing KX3 mic/signal link, you will need a four conductor mini 
phone jack to mate into the radio.  They can be found with a little 
searching.


I made a computer interface for my KX3 using a West Mountain Rigblaster 
Nohmic:

http://www.kl7uw.com/KX3_Computer_Interface.htm

These are NOT hard to do projects.  No surface-mount soldering of 
computer components, involved,


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] The RIGHT way is to adjust COMP

[Ed Cole]

From: Bob McGraw 
nd.net>

Start with COMP at 0, adjust the MIC gain while speaking normal voice to
attain 5 to 6 bars {no more} as indicated on the ALC meter.? Then adjust
the COMP for a value to indicate about 10 on voice peaks.

For those that believe in using the "I turned it up a little bit, now
how does that sound?" approach, . forget it.? Set it correctly as
described above? and it will sound great.?? There is a right way to do
this.?? Anything else is flying by the seat of your pants.

If you desire to have it sound different, then twiddle the EQ values
until your hearts content.?? After doing so, you may need to reset the
MIC and COMP levels to be correct.

I much prefer to listen to my signal on a remote SDR and record my
signal on the SDR site. Then listen to it in my shack on my speakers.?
Then I know HOW MY SIGNAL SOUNDS.?? That's what is important. ? I make
adjustments from there.

As to others, they can adjust their receivers, their speakers, their
hearing aids and a host of other things that will make ones signal
sound..err, many different ways.? So which one of the "many
different ways" is best?? Likely none of them.

73

Bob, K4TAX
---

OK, with mic set to 20 ALC was a little low; 23 setting produced ALC=5 
with speaking the word "FORE" (old radioman's test word for checking 
modulation).


When I advanced COMP, 23 now has 10-dB indicating.  MY guess the 
difference heard by others from 20&25 to 23&23 probably would not be 
discerned.  I will find out tomorrow during our VHF Net.  My old default 
settings were 20&20.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Qualifications, Customer Service

[Ed Cole]

On 6/29/2022 9:39 AM, Ed Cole wrote:
> Note on SSB compression, I've run at 20 with no complaints of distortion
> or splatter.

Dial readout is the WRONG way to set compression -- it's meaningless.
The RIGHT way is to adjust COMP for a METER reading of 10 dB on voice
peaks.

73, Jim K9YC

OK tested with COMP meter and 25 gives 10-dB.  20 setting produced about 
2-dB.


Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Ham Qualifications, Customer Service

[Ed Cole]

I bought my K3/10 in 2010 (SN 4340).  Didn't realize that was only two 
years after launch of the radio "We started selling the K3 in early 
2008-per Wayne".


radio has performed well over the last 12 years.  Only one failure of 
the KIO3A board which I opted to have Elecraft repair (two months in 
2020; height of Covis issues).  I did upgrade my two synth boards and 
upgraded the general band filter to add 630m use.


Recently, in light of comments about the KIO3 board, I ordered a KIO3B 
as backup spare (just in case as computer I/F is critical for my use of 
the K3 on digital modes - eme).


Since I run in transverter mode most of the time, little actual usage of 
the 10w modules have transpired.  Now running 6m-eme at 3w still ought 
to be gentle on the transistors (I drive a MRF-1K50H LDMOS final amp).


Surface-mount repair tasks one's abilities in eyesight and finger 
control (I did s-m repair for over twenty years, professionally and 
getting difficult as I age).  So I understand the comments about 
self-repair of much of today's electronics.


When I was working in a commercial shop we had a rule about deciding 
repair or replace: if repair costs equal or exceeded 50% of replacement 
we would recommend replacement.  Then there were always the customer 
with 1950's stuff wanting repair with no hope of finding replacement 
parts (eg vibrator PS).


Note on SSB compression, I've run at 20 with no complaints of distortion 
or splatter.  I do not do "combat contesting" or "aggressive DX", so 
that seems a good setting.  Audio drive also at 20 using Heil mic.


Spending money on ham radio at advanced age is a difficult choice.  But 
I decided to renovate my 12x38 foot storage building into a ham 
shack/workshop this summer (looking like $15K with most work done by 
contractor).  But moving out of 11x12 spare bedroom will be nice 
(emptying the storage bldg is not).


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Field Day and FT-8

[Ed Cole]

Ham radio is a TECHNICAL hobby. We are required to pass an exam
demonstrating that we understand the underlying principles, our
privileges are based on our having that understanding, and it is our
LAWFUL responsibility to transmit clean signals.

A major problem is that many hams have never bothered to learn the many
fundamentals of radio, audio, and electronics, stopping after memorizing
only enough Q to pass the exam for their license.

73, Jim K9YC
---
Jim,

Have to smile (or cringe) at your observations.  I certainly did not 
have much technical knowledge when I got my first license in 1958 
(Novice at age 14).  And most hams were not wanting to be bothered 
explaining anything to a "kid".


I bought ARRL books and eventually QST from which I absorbed a little 
bit. I used the Q approach to passing exams (even the 2nd Class Radio 
telephone license).


My first antenna was a 40-meter folded dipole made from TV twinlead 
(locally obtainable).  I just soldered a PL-259 onto the twinlead and 
screwed into my DX-35.  Peak-n-dip and I had output.  SWR


I took Elect. Engineering in college and learned a lot of higher math 
ways of designing electronics (but the simple algebraic equations in the 
ARRL Handbook carried my further).  design now involves sw apps.


Starting as a young engineer, I learned enough to know I didn't know 
much about much.  An older mentor provided wise education on many 
things.  But with no desire or ambition to learn; null = null.


The knob thing came from many CBer upgrades to ham radio. Or "More" is 
better.  I am still running into hams that do not know how to solder 
even basic things.  My last 20-years of professional life I was doing 
surface-mount troubleshooting and repairs.  New techs just swap boards.


I use FT8 mostly on 6m.  I noted that audio level had to be adjusted if 
I switched to MSK-144 (both pgms under wsjt-x).  I run a K3.


73, Ed - KL7UW
Note to Wayne: I worked as tech writer with Hughes Aircraft for 2-1/2 
years.  But at age 78 might be a bit late for being employed, again.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and Heatsink

[Ed Cole]

I added a heat sink to my KX3 a few years ago since I use it with long 
"key-down" digital modes such as wsjt-x (primarily on 6m).


I obtained the heat sink from VE7FMN and it installed easily.  Later 
Elecraft came out with its version which I bought (but have not 
installed).  Being a thin metal plate didn't seem comparable in heat 
conduction to the die-cast aluminum unit with cooling fins.  I tried 
finding VE7FMN's product and domain name is not registered so guessing 
he quit making them.


My testing results: http://www.kl7uw.com/KX3.htm

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 reduces power as it gets warmer?

[Ed Cole]

Disclaimer: OK the title is about the KPA1500; Elecraft advice probably 
extends to all their amps.  KL7UW


***
"You should be running fans full-speed under those conditions if you 
want it to live long! "


Please share any data you have that supports any claim than running 
continuous full fan on any Elecraft amplifier has any advantage over 
letting the firmware control the fans based on PA temperature.

Andy, k3wyc
-
If talking about CW, SSB, other low duty cycle modes that is fine, But:
Running digital modes that run "Key down" full output for longer time 
periods (eme cycles Tx=50sec/ Rx=70-seconds sometimes for for 
significant parts of a hour).  The safest procedure is to turn on fans 
full time.


Letting temp control logic control speed is also good (with Elecraft) 
but you are depending on reliability of more ckts.  What is the risk? 
How much to repair blown amp?

KL7UW

***
It?s actually better than that. FT8 only transmits for 12.6 seconds 
giving a duty cycle of 42%. The 7.4 seconds left over are used for 
decode so you can have an answer to send in the next transmit slot.


73 Bill AE6JV
-
Assuming you are running FT8 in 15-second sequencing. But FT8 can be run 
30-sec or 1-min seq, where Tx time is extended.  FT8 on HF or 6m using 
skip or sporadic-E, signals are probably strong enough for short receive 
sequences.  Not true if you are trying true weak-signal methods (example 
eme).  KL7UW


***
The engineer that created the amp recently said that you should let the
amp handle the fans.? It should be in the archives here on this list.
W0MU
--

OK, how much risk you take is up to you.  Regarding fan wear, I'm sure 
Elecraft chose long life-cycle fans (what is the MTBF?)


BTW does the KPA1500 display heat sink temp?  I add thermistors to all 
my amp heat sinks to real-time monitor temp.  The control board I use 
provides cktry for monitoring thermistor voltage plus auto-shutdown if 
temp exceeds trip point (or I can switch fans on, Full Time, bypassing 
the fan control ckt).


I operate eme 99% of the time.

73, Ed - KL7UW
Only Elecraft amp I own is KXPA100
the rest are W6PQL LDMOS amps
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 reduces power as it gets warmer?

[Ed Cole]

Slight drop (10%) in output with warming is normal for most solid-state 
amps.  Having fans run full speed might counter that, slightly.  Drop 
from 1500 to 1350 is 0.5 dB in signal (which is likely only noticeable 
if you are running a marginal propagation path (like eme).  In fact that 
is not significant on eme (normally) if you have sufficient antenna gain.


FT8 and many of the wsjt-x modes are weak-signal modes so one wants to 
run as much power as needed for the path.  Eg: yesterday I ran FT8 on 6m 
with a friend that was running a portable station for POTA.  He had 50w 
into a mobile vertical.  That was good for a -16 dB signal at my 6m-eme 
station (two 7-element LFA yagis into a K3).  I ran 1000w which was more 
than needed for the path (received 599 report since he was in 
contest-mode).  He was in the mountains only 100-miles from me.


Most amps are most efficient at their rated power: My converted Harris 
TV Linear runs 1000w at 48.6v at 50A (dc power is 2430w so 1430w is 
being dissipated as heat and indicates eff of 41%).  It uses 16 
transistors to do that.  Five 4-inch fans run full speed (always) 
because I normally am running "key down" digital modes 50-seconds out a 
2-minute Tx/Rx cycle. Good part of this Harris designed this amp to run 
continuous in ch2 AM for TV (100% duty cycle). Keeps shack warm in winter!


You should be running fans full-speed under those conditions if you want 
it to live long!  When I ran a 8877 on 2m running JT65, blowers ran 
continuously (and tube never failed at 1500w).  Talk about noise!


Good part about digital modes is one does not listen to received 
signals, so noise is not a hindrance; wear noise-cancelling headset if 
it bothers you (I just remove my hearing aids).


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Receiver impedance?

[Ed Cole]

Most of you are HF operators; translation: you receive strong signals.

But if you design VHF/UHF/mw preamps, achieving low Noise figure (NF) is 
desired.  Advanced receiver designers are aware lowest NF does not occur 
at low-Z (eg. 50-ohms).  Input Z is lowest in NF at Z near 200-ohms 
(varies by device, ckt design, individual units).


This why achieving low NF is difficult when device is used on real 
antennas vs ideal NF meter 50-ohm setups.


But as I stated at beginning, HF receivers are designed with other 
parameters being more important (operating in a high RF environ, for 
example).


My eme preamps try to detect signals at -155 to -160 dBm (K3+PR6 sens is 
about -145dBm @ 500-KHz bw (NF=4 dB), which is way more than needed on 
most HF bands (exception 10m and 6m, where sky noise begins to drop 
making preamp NF become more important).  But local produced noise is 
still the limiting factor for most of us (and getting worse with more 
"wireless" devices encroaching our neighborhood).


On 6m I see S5 noise with PR6 (21 dB gain) on my K3. With 6m antennas 
elevated above horizon s-meter drops to S3.  80m is S8 with preamp off. 
With 50-ohm term instead of antenna I see S0


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Quandary

[Ed Cole]

Unbelievable answers (really).

If someone asked if anyone was knowledgeable about contesting or say 
eme, would you just answer yes or no? Or would you offer assistance to 
the questioner?


My first ham antenna was a folded dipole for 40m.  It was described in 
my first ARRL Handbook as there were no nearby hams to ask and in 1958 
there was no internet.  TV twinlead was locally available so was easier 
to make than one requiring coax.  I soldered a PL-259 directly the 
twinlead feedline and connected to my DX-35  (which loaded it FB even 
with high SWR that, at age 14, I was unaware of).


For HF half-wave, center-fed, dipoles have been my favorite.  Currently 
have a 80/40M inverted-V (fan-style).  Wire lengths slightly longer for 
resonance than for horizontal dipole.  Cut slightly longer than formula 
(492/F) and trim until SWR matched.  I have ends supported with nylon 
cord over pulleys to lower for cutting.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] PayPal holding payment. (Follow up)

[Ed Cole]

I ran a business making kits and used PayPal with no issues (probably 
over 100 transactions).  Even used PayPal credit to purchase a IC-9700, 
with no issues.  I have an excellent credit rating.


If you want to check someone's transaction quality, E-Bay collects 
buyer/seller ratings.  Mine is 100%.


Only time I had issues was with shipping being lost or delayed.  Not a 
PayPal issue.  Had one or two bogus vendors which PayPaal promptly 
refunded me.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Option Advice Wanted

[Ed Cole]

I ordered the "kit" version when the first one's were offered (sn 475).

I got everything except paddle (not a CW operator) or the battery 
charger (use either external battery or use it mobile/in shack).


I did get the 2m module as 144 is IF of my mw transverters (1w drive 
level) where SSB is prime mode. Microwave* shots are typically from 
shore line or hill (mountain) top in semi-portable operation.


I use it with the KXPA-100 for mobile, where I have 25w 2m booster to 
drive 150w amp.  80w on HF/6m is fine for mobile.


I got options with thoughts of resale value (later on).

73, Ed - KL7UW
*3400MHz & 10GHz
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S Options Last time buy update

[Ed Cole]

Thanks for the update, Eric.

I hadn't gotten the the order list, when offered, but recent chatter on 
this list prompted to write to get me added on wait list (which I 
received confirmation from sales).  I've had only one failure, the 
KI03A, which was repaired by Elecraft two years ago.  I decided that I 
should get a backup so ordered a KIO3B.


this is sensible since my twelve year old K3/10 will be used another ten 
years, hopefully.


I have the K3/10, KX3+2m, and KXPA-100.  All good stuff!
I built my own QRO LDMOS amps for HF, 50, 144, 1296 from partial kits.

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Service

[Ed Cole]

Boy, a lot of comments on this topic.  I'll try to brief:

I bought my K3/10 in 2010.  My primary use was for eme using 
transverters so I did not need 100w version.  I did buy the KXV3 and 
TCXO-03, EXREF, and KRX3.  Decided on the 8-pole filters (13, 2.8, 0.400 
MHz in the main Rx and 2.8 in the sub-Rx).


Main focus was the low phase-noise LO and superb CW performance (I had a 
FT-847 before which I ran 2m-eme, but HF was mediocre).  The K3 fit my 
needs (as my forever radio).


I acquired a KX3 plus 2m module and then the KXPA-100 (targeting 
portable/mobile use including as IF for mw operations).  The KXPA-100 
fit well with the K3/10 as a bonus.


Only had one issue needing repair on the K3 and that was my KI03A 
apparently was hit blowing up a ferrite choke and IC.  I could have 
upgraded to a KI03B but really did not need the USB I/F.  Part 
availability and perhaps manpower issue delayed return for about three 
months (summer 2019).  I could not operate digital eme modes without the 
board.


Probably will not upgrade to a K4D, but sure looks nice.  I', estimating 
maybe ten more years of ham radio (64-years as a ham, so far).  One last 
solar cycle peak (first was 1958).


Certainly many new SDR to chose from now days.

Choosing a new rig is about what your needs and use are.  A used K3 or 
K3s would not be a bad choice (if you want it fast).  K4 is probably 
worth waiting for.


Side note: just bought new John Deere lawn tractor/mower for $4K 
($400/year payback).  But my old Craftsman is 13 years old (and it wants 
to retire).  Well I've been retired 13  years.


73, Ed - KL7UW
2022 projects:
HF/6m 1200w MRF1k50 amplifier (kit)
2m-eme array/tower rebuild
16-foot dish rebuild
6-foot dish for 10-GHz eme
Renovation of storage shed into ham shack/work shop
just taking it easy this summer (and spending too much money)
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Re: [Elecraft] Using MFJ-1026 Noise Canceller on 6m-eme

[Ed Cole]

Chet,

Your experience using noise sense antenna brings up something I am 
curious about; whether pointing noise antenna at same heading as signal 
antenna will have affect on cancelling ability.


At present my 6m-eme yagis are pointed az=060 and noise sense antenna is 
fixed at az=130 (3-elem side mounted to a tower leg).


If I find correlation with antenna headings, I might mount the noise 
antenna on the same mast as the eme array but 8-foot above them.  With 
isolation relay in line the noise Rx will be offline in Tx.


Also characteristics of the noise waveform may affect how well phase 
nulling works.  I also see noise floor occasionally rise on 2m which is 
something switched on and then off (appliance of some sort).  My house 
is clean except for the microwave oven.


Still experimental; more results to follow.

73, Ed - KL7UW

On 4/16/2022 4:26 PM, chetsubacco...@snet.net wrote:

Thanks for the info Ed, quite appreciated.

And, similar to what Lyn has stated, I have had  mixed results using a
Timewave ANC-4 on 6M. When the noise source was S7 from one direction about
2 miles away, I was able to use a low 3 el vert noise yagi to reduce it to
S1-2. But when the noise was radiating from the powerlines right in front of
my house with a broad azimuth, I could not do too well.

73,
Chet, N8RA

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On
Behalf Of Lyn Norstad
Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2022 5:12 PM
To: 'Ed Cole' ; magic...@groups.io
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Using MFJ-1026 Noise Canceller on 6m-eme

Interesting setup, Ed.

I've used the MFJ-1026 in the past, but found that satisfactory (i.e.:
meaningful) results were hard to come by when used in the recommended
manner.

Please keep us posted on your tests.

73
Lyn, WØLEN



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ed Cole
Sent: Friday, April 15, 2022 8:32 PM
To: magic...@groups.io
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Using MFJ-1026 Noise Canceller on 6m-eme

Diagram of final configuration: http://www.kl7uw.com/6M_NOISE_CANCEL.jpg

This a basic phasing unit to reduce band noise on HF bands.  But first I
tried it on 6m where no null was achieved.

Next I configured to use the 1st IF output of my dual-Rx Elecraft K3 running
in Diversity mode which phase-locks both Rx to the main VFO.

That involved using an outboard SDR to detect the 8.215 MHz IF signal and
supply audio to my computer.  Sensitivity was too low on the second Rx so
required opening/inspecting cables inside the radio.  I found the synth coax
not seated well to the second Rx.  Re-seating the connector fixed that.


But I still had too low an audio level from the 8-MHz SDR to drive wsjt-x.
A bit of research found the proper dialog box to adjust mic gain.
Apparently the K3 line output is much higher than the SDR audio (LP-Pan2).

Original design involved using an external preamp for the 6m noise antenna
(3-element yagi) but I found I had adequate gain using the MFJ internal
preamp set to gain=2 (out of 10).

To add additional RF protection to the MFJ, I added a coax relay to
disconnect the aux input of the MFJ.  It does have a TR control line to give
protection to the main Rx line, but none to the aux Rx input.  My main Rx is
fed by a preamp at the tower located behind a TR relay.

I adjusted audio levels for main and aux inputs so wsjt-x read 36 on the
audio bar meter for each.  With both inputs it read 40.

Placing the K3 into diversity mode I could null about 6-dB (reading dropped
to 32/34.

No idea if this is enough noise reduction for 6m where I regularly see
S5 pointing NE toward MR,  Pointing SE local noise often drops to S2/S3.
   One s-unit is 6-dB.

Next is to test with actual eme signals.

73, Ed - KL7UW
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delivered to chetsubacco...@snet.net



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[Elecraft] Using MFJ-1026 Noise Canceller on 6m-eme

[Ed Cole]

Diagram of final configuration: http://www.kl7uw.com/6M_NOISE_CANCEL.jpg

This a basic phasing unit to reduce band noise on HF bands.  But first I 
tried it on 6m where no null was achieved.


Next I configured to use the 1st IF output of my dual-Rx Elecraft K3 
running in Diversity mode which phase-locks both Rx to the main VFO.


That involved using an outboard SDR to detect the 8.215 MHz IF signal 
and supply audio to my computer.  Sensitivity was too low on the second 
Rx so required opening/inspecting cables inside the radio.  I found the 
synth coax not seated well to the second Rx.  Re-seating the connector 
fixed that.



But I still had too low an audio level from the 8-MHz SDR to drive 
wsjt-x.  A bit of research found the proper dialog box to adjust mic 
gain.  Apparently the K3 line output is much higher than the SDR audio 
(LP-Pan2).


Original design involved using an external preamp for the 6m noise 
antenna (3-element yagi) but I found I had adequate gain using the MFJ 
internal preamp set to gain=2 (out of 10).


To add additional RF protection to the MFJ, I added a coax relay to 
disconnect the aux input of the MFJ.  It does have a TR control line to 
give protection to the main Rx line, but none to the aux Rx input.  My 
main Rx is fed by a preamp at the tower located behind a TR relay.


I adjusted audio levels for main and aux inputs so wsjt-x read 36 on the 
audio bar meter for each.  With both inputs it read 40.


Placing the K3 into diversity mode I could null about 6-dB (reading 
dropped to 32/34.


No idea if this is enough noise reduction for 6m where I regularly see 
S5 pointing NE toward MR,  Pointing SE local noise often drops to S2/S3. 
 One s-unit is 6-dB.


Next is to test with actual eme signals.

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Shipping via UPS - A Lesson Learned the Hard Way

[Ed Cole]

Most be glad you are not shipping in/out of AK.

UPS/FedEx rates are double (or more) than USPS.  If it will fit a USPS 
Flat-rate box that is even less.  That is for 3-day delivery which can 
take up to five days.  UPS/Fedex 2-day is also 3-days (because delivery 
is to the Anchorage Int'l Airport Office and then trucked to my address 
150-miles away the next day.  UPS/FedEx delivery is M-F (no weekends) 
and is the "drop and scoot" delivery (too lazy to push the door bell). 
I always make a point to be home and watch for their truck.  USPS is 
kept at the PO for my pickup (they have door locks and security); M-St 
access.


Most of the time if a vendor says "UPS only" or "FedEx only", I find 
another vendor to spend my dollars with.  Also like free delivery 
(except not to AK or HI).  And they ship by USPS (duh).  Or "spend more 
than $xxx and shipping is free (except to AK or HI).


Now I can see this if its multi-hundred pound item on a pallet, but for 
a package with a few semiconductors (greedy B*sturds).


USPS insures but it may take up to six months to receive it.  Better 
keep a copy of your shipping label.  Click-n-ship keeps a record for you 
up to a year when you have an account (which is free).


Now back to Elecraft stuff!

Ed - KL7UW
I ran a Int'l business out of my home (WA2ODO Preamps; Kits by KL7UW)
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 215, Issue 15

[Ed Cole]

Thanks Bob,

My late night calculating in my head was off by factor of ten

5ppm at 10-MHz is +/- 50Hz and at 30-MHz 150-Hz

And I forgot that the TCXO-03 actually performed at 0.5ppm so one got 
ten times better stability suing the TCXO-03.


I reviewed my actual notes for testing with the TCXO-03 + EXREF 
stabilized by an OCXO at 10-MHz having +/-5 E-12 short term stability. 
I have a K3/10 so power output was set to 10w for the tests.


I measured 28 MHz with -1.5 Hz offset, and
50-MHz with -2.5 Hz offset, tests repeated the next day within 1-Hz.

Measurements per my EIP-538 frequency meter which was externally locked 
to a Rubidium source of +/-5 E-11. [I was a beta tester on the EXREF]


That effectively brings the K3 down to .05ppm.  On 28-MHz I figure I'm 
within 2-Hz which is great for running VHF/UHF transverters that can add 
up to 10-Hz drift running modes like FT8 or JT65.


On 2m using my K3 with 25w transverter, I see total upward drift of 7-Hz 
after running 30-minutes of JT-65.  One wants to limit max drift to 
20-Hz running digital modes.


At 432 and 1296 my transverters have PLL local oscillators so only drift 
is from the K3.  Note I run the K3 transverter I/F at 1mw so there is 
virtually no heating inside the K3 to cause drift.


Running a K3 with 100w might yield different results.  My understanding 
is that the K4 has the EXREF as standard, if one wants to use an 
external frequency standard (correct me if that is not true).


73, Ed - KL7UW



On 3/31/2022 3:35 PM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

From: Bob McGraw
To:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] TCXO
Message-ID:<4b5a4813-135d-f484-171d-be99a71a3...@benlomand.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

The TCXO is the reference frequency for about everything that takes
place in the radio.? It is the master clock.? If it is incorrect, then
everything else is incorrect, for the most part.

A 5 ppm TCXO, or 5 parts per million, can have an error of ±250 Hz on
6 meters.?? Where as a 0.5 ppm TCXO can have an error of 25 Hz on 6
meters.?? It just depends on how accurate and stable you desire your
radio to be.

Oh, the frequency read-out on the front is just that, a read out.? It is
not a frequency measurement of the exact frequency. Many will put their
radio on 14.255.000 and swear it is on that frequency.? But with a 5 ppm
TCXO it could be ± 71 Hz.? Where as with a 0.5 ppm it would be ± 7
Hz.? Of course one must consider crystal and component ageing and
perform very easy calibration procedure at regular intervals.? I check
and adjust mine once a month and can maintain ± 2 Hz or or better.

I ordered mine with the 1 ppm TCXO with F/W corrected to 0.5 ppm.

73

Bob, K4TAX

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Re: [Elecraft] TCXO

[Ed Cole]

To add a little to what Lance-W7GJ said:

Every K3 has a TCXO.  Standard is the TCXO-01 with 5ppm stability which 
fine if you only run CW/SSB/AM/FM. TCXO stands for Temperature Controled 
Xtal Oscillator.  I provides the frequency standard for the K3 
synthesizers to lock to.  5ppm translates as 5*10^-6 or on 10-MHz 
frequency is within 5-Hz; 30-MHz its 15-Hz.


TCXO-03 improves this to 1ppm: 1-Hz at 10-MHz; 3-Hz at 30-MHz

If you buy the TCXO-03 option and add the K3EXREF board this improves to 
2-Hz at 30-MHz.  The EXREF compares the TCXO with a high standard 10-MHz 
reference oscillator like an OCXO or GPSDO.  When the TCXO drifts off 
frequency the EXREF corrects that about every 4-seconds.


High frequency stability is needed when running certain digital modes 
such as FT8.  Also, useful if your K3 is driving a VHF/UHF/mw transverter.


73, Ed - KL7UW


Date: Wed, 30 Mar 2022 07:44:49 -0500
From: rikoski 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: Richard Rikoski 
Subject: [Elecraft] TCXO
Message-ID: <11ce6286-6d21-47fd-9734-4b1646d35...@rikoski.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

What are the uses for the TCXO option in a K3?

Why would I want one? Thanks,

73 W9ZD
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 drive level for Q5 Signal 432 Transverter

[Ed Cole]

Tried what you suggested Gary.  No joy.  The upper limit with the PWR 
knob remains at 0.8MW.  I can adjust downward but not upward.  Need to 
get a good power meter on it and see what the actual output is.  And, 
I?ll try the low-level power calibration process and see what happens.


Thanks again.

Any others have any suggestions?

David, NS4V

For accurate measurement of power at 1mw, the HP-432A Power Meter is 
excellent.  But probably Tried what you suggested Gary.  No joy.  The 
upper limit with the PWR knob remains at 0.8MW.  I can adjust downward 
but not upward.  Need to get a good power meter on it and see what the 
actual output is.  And, I?ll try the low-level power calibration process 
and see what happens.


Thanks again.

Any others have any suggestions?

David, NS4V
--
For measuring mw level RF, the HP-432A Microwave Power Meter is 
excellent and reads up to 10-GHz, which probably not needed by most who 
read this reflector.  They sell used at about $150, but the power sensor 
and cord are hardest to find.


For most reading RF voltage across a 50-ohm dummy load with an 
oscilloscope is good.  Read the peak voltage and calculate the rms 
voltage.  Vrms = 0.7071*Vpk.  Power = Vrms^2/50.  Scope needs to be 
rated for the frequency being measured.


One other note: I have found my K3 will drop power if the load is not 
low SWR.  Could the input impedance of the Q5 not be 50-ohms?


I assume the input is similar to the DEMI 432 transverter with a choice 
of high power (up to 10w) or low power (down to -20mw).  There is a 
mini-pot for adjusting Tx drive on the pcb.  The Q5 manual should have 
installation and tune-up instructions that mention input power 
requirements and drive adjustment.


Probably a call to Elecraft Service might help.

73, ED - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] D-104 Mic Element Replacement

[Ed Cole]

I remember the D104's from my early years in Ham radio.

I never had a mic for my DX35 in the late 1950's and acquired a carbon 
mic with the old AN-ARC-1 VHF AM radio I bought for 2m AM as a Tech.


I upgraded to a Johnson 6N2 after college so bought a new Electro-voice 
mic that had cardiode pattern for noise reduction.  It was shaped like a 
long silver tube and I got a desk stand for it.  It was a broadcast mic 
so made fine quality AM on 2m with my plate modulated 5894 at 150w.


All that gear is gone, now.

Most of my station is now Elecraft.

73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 wattmeter adjustment

[Ed Cole]

I would guess most RF power meters are lucky to be within 5% accuracy of 
full scale.


As a comm tech in the 2-way commercial industry, the Bird43 is pretty 
much a standard field instrument for measuring power and reflected power 
(to check SWR on cables, antennas, filters, etc.).


If you want higher precision measuring ac voltage across an accurate 
50-ohm termination is the better choice.  The ac voltmeter is your scope 
and its accuracy depends on the frequency range its built for.


For fairly low power you can get quite accurate RF loads.  I keep a 
couple for doing comparison checks with my Bird (have two of them).


Since I do ham radio up to 10-GHz the Bird and most ham SWR meters are 
useless.  I have a surplus HP432A microwave power meter for that.  Its 
not calibrated (recently).


I have several directional couplers for measuring reflected power.  A 
couple are rated to nearly 1000w for the 900-MHz mobile phone market.  I 
checked directional and coupling factors using the HP432A at 1296 and 
those are installed on output of my 600w 1296 amp for continuous 
monitoring forward and reflected power.  I use a small pcb with shottky 
diode detectors to provide indication on a ma meter.  I record the dc 
voltage derived with RF power measured by the HP432A.  Milliammeter is 
then set with a precision bench PS at the observed voltage from the 
detector.


They will get checked often with one of the Birds for a quick test.  The 
Birds will be calibrated with the HP432A using attenuators to bring 
level down to 1mw.


I only have a 150MHz scope at present so can't really use it for RF 
calibrations at mw frequencies but the HP432A can be compared at HF or VHF.


So probably most hams are not going to send their RF power meters out 
for calibration.  But there probably are 1% who might.  Solution would 
be for them to offer to test meters for other hams at a nominal fee (or 
even for free) if two-way shipping is paid for.  That is done by a few 
microwave hams for others.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials

[Ed Cole]

I used three radials (70-foot long) made of 2-foot wide chicken wire 
(think its galvanized steel) on my 600m inverted-L.  Fourth radial was 
the shield of my 1-5/8 inch diameter Heliax line that ran 120-feet from 
the supporting tower to the shack in our house.


I ran a circle of bare No. 12 copper thhn around the base of the tower 
to connect the chicken wire radials (soldered).  That was also attached 
to a 10-foot copper ground rod as was the Heliax shield.


Inverted-L was 43 foot high by 122-foot long and base loaded with a 
large coil made of No. 12 thhn (10-inch diam by 11-inch long windings 
spaced 1/4-inch).  Base coil was grounded.


I measured Z=20 + j0 using a modified MFJ-269 inserted on the ground end 
of the coil.  Radiation resistance calculated by EZNEC = 0.8 ohm with 
about 4% efficiency.  I run 100w on 600m so ERP was about 4w.


I've previously written about the new antenna:
http://www.kl7uw.com/630m.htm

I will use Bob's staple method on radials for my new "T" antenna.

73, Ed - KL7UW

I had to roll up the chicken wire to mow.  Used concrete blocks to hold 
it down in several spots.


Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2022 09:22:33 -0700
From: Mike Fatchett 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] On ground - in ground radials
Message-ID: <7ecd295a-25fd-51ad-af9c-86f034849...@w0mu.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

A well known 9 lander lid uses chicken wire for his 160 antenna and it
works very very well.? I am not sure what effect crossing the wires
has.? Has anyone done any real testing of this or is it just theory or a
wives tale?? Did he stumble upon the holy grail of radials?

Most of the results of the radial field are from the first 50 percent or
so.? You do not necessarily have to have 66 ft radials on 80m to work
and get out.? Put out as many as you can as long as you can and shorter
radials are fine too.

W0MU
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] Loss in window line [OPINION] [LONG]

[Ed Cole]

Good discussion as I was thinking to use window line in my new 630m - 
40m antenna.


Maybe revert to running parallel lines spaced 1-foot with spreaders only 
at top and bottom of 40-foot vertical run.


I did that with my previous inverted-L with no weather related issues. 
Impedance did shift between summer (unfrozen soil) and winter (frozen) 
which was easily compensated by a change in loading coil tap.


Radials were lying on ground vs in-ground or suspended above ground. 
New radial field will be planted in the soil a couple inches (so I can 
mow the lawn without rolling up the radials each time).


73, Ed - KL7UW
recent "fun" getting FL-digi to work with my K3.

Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2022 13:21:50 -0800
From: Fred Jensen 
To: Bob McGraw 
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 213, Issue 6
Message-ID: <09a385cb-07b4-29f8-0c64-464705bda...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

My experience as well.? No real change in loss but the complex impedance
at the TX end does change enough to require a re-tune.? It used to be so
much simpler when the tank circuit on the PA served as both a matching
network and harmonic filter. ?

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
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Re: [Elecraft] Output power being eaten

[Ed Cole]

There are situations when running a driver at it full output is 
desirable.  Or when running at very low output is not as stable.


Two examples:

I have a 6-dB 30w attenuator on the input of my 2m 1500w LDMOS Amp 
(MRF1K50H) which ensures that my 25w transverter will not overdrive the 
amp.  The attenuator is a small board with high power resistors obtained 
from W6PQL:

http://www.kl7uw.com/2M_W6PQL_1500W_PA.jpg

My 600w 1296 amp requires 10w drive and is 100-foot from the 
transverter.  The LMR600 line loss is 6-dB so I use a 3-dB chip 
attenuator to get a stable 1.5w drive into the 10w driver at the amp:

http://www.kl7uw.com/23cm_driver_1.jpg

That allows me to run my transverter at 12w in the shack (max output is 
18w).


Of course I am using a K3 with KXV3 to drive to my transverter (no 
overshoot).  No external ALC for the K3.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] K3/10 connected to KXPA100/KXTA100

[Ed Cole]

Operation of the the KXPA100 with its tuner works great with my KX3 
using the KXUSB cable (particularly nice when KX3 is mounted on my truck 
dash and amp is under the back seat.


But I also use the amp/tuner with my K3/10 (low power version) which has 
no KXUSB jack.  I just connect PTT to the amp.  Works great and tuner 
tunes well.  But when I change bands the amp/tuner seems confused. 
Doesn't change antenna connections or tuner settings when I transmit 
using the XMIT/TUNE button on the K3.


I've found thru trial-n-error that cycling the amp power off/on seems to 
then do the changes needed and it tunes well (remembers pre-tuned freqs.)


I'm guessing the KXAT100 detects frequency change but does not activate 
the tuner settings until I reset it with the power cycling.


Just curious if this is normal behavior?

My setup:
ANT1: connects to 6m antenna (BYP) or triband HF yagi (MAN)
ANT2: connects to 80m dipole (BYP)
K3-->KXPA100 ANT1-->ant switch-->6m yagi or HF tribander
 ANT2-->80m dipole

If switching from 6m to tribander I switch the ant switch before 
transmitting.  Usually I manually change ANT1 to ANT2 by Press/hold TUNE 
on the amp if switching to 80m.


Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] PR6-10 Tests

[Ed Cole]

I imagine there are many who have the PR6 or PR6-10 for their K3.

Recently I had to replace the PGA-103 in mine so took the time to 
measure NF and gain at 50-MHz.


NF = 0.78 dB
Gain = 21.15 dB
Voltage at input leg=0.6v
Voltage at output leg=2.5v
80ma at 13.5vdc

That's pretty good with switching relays in-line (typ. 0.7 dBNF, 20 dB gain)

HP8970B NF meter with Maury MT7618L noise diode.

Using a new WA2ODO 2m preamp as calibration source the NF measurement 
was within 0.01 dB of that measured by WA2ODO with laboratory calibrated 
equipment.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Best Portable Wire

[Ed Cole]

Well Rich,

Guess you are a late comer.

I got my ham license at age 14 and I am now 77.  I've been married 18 
years.  She was married to ham before me, so had been "broke-in" before 
getting "saddled" with me (western sayin).  That was the good news and 
the bad news.


When she arrived north to live with me, I already had a 50-foot tower up 
and 8-foot dish inside a "golfball" radome.  She wanted a nicer home but 
knew there were two requirements: room for my 13 sled dogs and room for 
my antennas (and ham shack).  Now I have four towers and a 16-foot dish. 
 All the sled dogs have passed onto "dog heaven" and only have one 
house dog which is hers.


She knows the money goes into ham stuff and not beers at the local pub 
(plus skirt chasing).


And she is even the NA sales rep for Dubus Magazine (which she gets a 
little 'pin' money from).  Dubus is published in Germany and is VHF/mw 
ham technical magazine + European VHF activity news.  She even has 
accompanied me to ham conferences.


She is not a ham.  But she is a good one and I'm keeping her!

73, Ed - KL7UW, ex-AL7EB, ex-K8MWA

From: Rich WC3T 
To: Wayne Burdick 
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High bands open
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=utf-8

I?ve been married for 38 years.
I?ve been a ham since 2015.
Gotta pick my battles.

72,
Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737
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Re: [Elecraft] ?ELECRAFT NVIS field day?

[Ed Cole]

Thanks to Bill Parsons-AF6AE for the tip on the QST December-2005 
article.  Pulled it out and scanned it over (will read more thoroughly 
later) but interestingly showed how 80/40m coverage varied by time of 
day (which was demonstrated real-time in the 1980's on the Iditarod 
trail working into Anchorage).


At home I only use those bands infrequently and mostly to talk out a few 
hundred miles in Alaska.  Somewhere I read that a 40-foot high 
inverted-V would work well.  I have a 50-foot tower mounted to end of my 
house with Hygain TH3mk4 tribander at tower top so hung my 80/40m fan 
dipole at the 40-foot level with end tapering down to 20-foot on one end 
and 15-foot on the other.  Its hung on a line NW to SE but that seems to 
work out 400 miles just fine.


I am going to re-hang that antenna next summer with 80m wire at right 
angle to 40m wire as the fan-style 40m tuning was affected by proximity 
of the 80m wire.  As I have written previously, I will also run this as 
a top-hat loaded vertical on 160m/630m by shorting the 40-foot high 
feedline.


I check into a weekly net on Saturdays (11am local time) on 3920 KHz. 
NC is about 70 miles south in Homer, AK (KL7PM) and consistently comes 
in at 30-40 dB over S9.  He does run about 400w.  I get at least S9 
reports from him with my 100w and I hear other stations out as far north 
as Fairbanks (400 miles) pretty well.  Band noise runs S7 (K3 PRE Off).


3920 is designated emergency channel for AK and often activated after an 
earthquake for tsunami watch.


Ed-KL7UW
K3/10+KXPA100 on HF/6m
under construction is 3w/1200w W6PQL MRF1K50H amp
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Re: [Elecraft] ?ELECRAFT NVIS field day?

[Ed Cole]

Just a comment on low dipoles:

On the Iditarod Dog Sled Race (Alaska) we had ham stations located in 
remote located checkpoints (total bush-no telephone or other utilities). 
 We used 80m and 40m to communicate with race HQ in Anchorage over 
paths of a couple hundred miles to 600 miles, or so.


80m worked well at night and 40m during the daytime.

Since one packed their station in a couple boxes to be hauled in small 
airplanes to these remote locations, antenna was a simple 80m wire 
dipole with clip-out sections to convert to 40m.


Usually antennas got strung from trees or buildings only high as one 
could reach or maybe using a stepladder.  They were NVIS by definition.


I recall some hung only 8 to 12 foot high, yet they worked fine with 
100w.  Not every station could reach HQ so quite a bit of relaying race 
traffic was done (reporting times in/out of checkpoints).  The race 
extends 1100 miles over a 8 to 20-day period as the dog teams varied in 
speed.


Ham radio is no longer used as the officials went to using sat-phones. 
But I was lucky to go out eight years on the trail as ham operator in 
the 1980's.  Used barefoot TS-180S and dipole (plus 600w Honda Gen).


You never lived until you slept in a wall tent at -60F outside (and -15F 
inside the tent).  Radio worked but LCD display took a little time to 
start when cold.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Common Mode chokes to reduce noise

[Ed Cole]

OK, kind of what I was thinking.  So either go on search for noise 
source or try reducing the noise at the receiver.  K3 NB does not 
improve SNR on 6m.


On HF noise varies: 80m its S7 from an inverted-V; on 20m its S3 from a 
yagi (both have baluns).


6m noise at S5-S7 is the most troublesome because I do weak-signal 
operating (eme, ms, FT8). InnovAntenna 6m baluns are many ferrite beads 
in series.  6m yagis are LFA7 from InnovAntenna (UK).


Shack is grounded via No. 8 wire to ground post adjacent to shack. 
Aluminum plate coax thru-wall panel is grounded by it, as well.


ED-KL7UW
-
If it does, something is very wrong in your shack, like bonding. What
DOES matter is having effective common mode chokes at the antenna's
feedpoint. See my recommendations at k9yc.com/publish.htm

73, Jim K9YC
--
I don't see how a common mode choke would help in that situation. If the
noise changes that dramatically depending upon where you have the
antenna pointed, that strongly suggests that the noise is being received
by the antenna and is not riding on the shield of the coax.? If it is
received by the antenna it is differential in nature and a common mode
choke won't do anything.

It sounds like you are being plagued by either a local noise source, or
the atmospheric noise is much stronger in one direction.? In my case,
the background noise during the middle of the day is always stronger
east versus west even though there isn't any significant housing or
businesses within 200 miles east of me.

73,
Dave?? AB7E
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[Elecraft] Common Mode chokes to reduce noise

[Ed Cole]

I primarily work eme so band noise is a prime enemy of weak signals.

I was reading the comments about combating mic noise and wondered if 
adding some ferrite beads to my 6m coax at the shack would have any 
effect on received broad-band noise.  I definitely see the noise peak in 
one direction of the antenna S5/S7 vs S2 at 180-degrees azimuth 
rotation, and it also drops with about 13 degrees of antenna elevation.


My 6m LFA antenna use ferrite bead baluns.  Transmission coax runs 
40-foot vertical and 50-foot horizontal on the ground.  Rx comes from a 
remote preamp connected thru a TR relay with output thru LMR-240 coax to 
the Rx antenna port of the K3.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Need K3 Board

[Ed Cole]

My KI03 board failed in 2020 and I was lucky to get it repaired by 
Elecraft (though it took months due to Covus issues).


I blew up a ferrite cube and IC so decided to have them do the repair 
since the IC leads were high density and I didn't trust being able to 
desolder without damage to the board.  Highly suspect board is multi-layer.


Without use of the KI03 board my K3 would be useless.  Hope it doesn't 
fail again.  Cause?? as we get no lightening locally.


73, Ed - KL7UW
K3-10 sn 4340 bought in 2010


From: David Gilbert 
To: Ray ,   "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need K3 Board
Message-ID: <7a88a321-850b-18d7-1c32-fb0f27907...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed


LOL.? I bet you don't even know if the board is multilayer or not. I
don't, and I'm not about to pull it out of the rig just to find out.

I had a KIO3 board go bad in the past and was lucky enough to be able to
replace it then.? Pretty certain I'm screwed if it happens again.

Dave?? AB7E
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Re: [Elecraft] feeding a half-wave dipole with ladder line

[Ed Cole]

Bob,

Either you did not read what I wrote carefully enough, or I did a poor 
job of explaining.


First off:  I an not a HF DX chaser or HF Contest junkie.  HF is a very 
occasional activity when I want a casual chat or check in a local net.

Thus a compromise antenna for the "low bands".

The existing 80/40m dipole is a fan dipole with 80 and 40m wires.  I 
plan the new setup  to run 40m at right angles for less interaction 
between them (been there done it experience).


If all I wanted to do is 80/40 I would install the existing 1:1 balun at 
the feed and run coax to it.


But I was thinking I could use window wire (commercially made) instead 
of the 12-inch parallel wires I show in the diagram.  Whatever its 
impedance (probably like 300-ohm or 450).


By shorting the ladder line I could feed the antennas as a shortened 
vertical on either 160m or 630m where the dipole wire would add 
"top-hat" loading.  Similar to how the horizontal wire in an inverted-L 
works.


I already have my 630m loading coil to use at the base; adding a tap it 
could work at 160m.


I have vacuum relays to do the shorting.  And yes there will be radials 
that are too short on 630m (1/4 wave is 522 feet and my property is 200x 
300 foot).


My question regarded choosing a proper balun to use on 80 & 40m. 
Running 140 foot of ladder wire on diagonal to the shack defeats using 
it as a vertical.  Ideal would be a QRO ATU at the ground-end of the 
vertical wires (but I'm too cheap for that).  I have a QRO Drake Tuner 
to do the job at the shack.  I'll try out my 1:1 balun.



73, Ed - KL7UW

Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2021 18:48:36 -0500
From: Bob McGraw 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] feeding a half-wave dipole with ladder line
Message-ID: <8431998e-509b-9164-368a-1985394d8...@benlomand.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed

Remember that you are not matching the impedance of the ladder line, but
more so, matching the impedance of the antenna.?? The reason for ladder
line is the low loss property even with high SWR on the line.??? A good
quality 1:1 balun is preferred.?? See https://www.dj0ip.de/balun-stuff/

I've been using balanced fed antennas since 1960.?? I bring the balanced
line all the way to the tuner in the shack where it meets up with my
custom Guanella balun.? Regarding balanced fed antennas, they work, they
are easy to use, easy easy to keep in the air and DO NOT have TVI or RF
issues in the shack.?? Most of the information you hear is related to?
"old ham lore" and is not valid in any sense of the imagination.

Yes, the 130 ft center fed length will be very difficult to match on 40M
as the feed Z will be very high, in the order of 4K ohms, and not likely
in the range of your tuner.?? I suggest you add a 33 ft section of wire
to either side at the feed point. ? Thus a 80/40M antenna. ? Then you
will be able to work 80M, 40M, 20M, 15M, and 10M with that antenna
configuration.?? Mine does!? Works great.

If you want it to work 160M then it needs to be 256 ft in length.??
Although you might get a reasonable match on 160M with the 130 ft center
fed wire.?? It will depend somewhat on the feed line length acting as a
line section transformer.

As to 630M, that is a different animal and needs special attention.? I'd
suggest tying the feeders together and uss the antenna as a top loaded
vertical.

73

Bob, K4TAX
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[Elecraft] feeding a half-wave dipole with ladder line

[Ed Cole]

I am redesigning my 40/80/160/630m antennas.

A year ago the tower I was supporting my 630m Invert-L was damaged by 
wind and taken down.  Replacement tower is shorter so not suitable end 
wire support for HF antenna.


I decided to repurpose my 80/40m dual dipole into a based-loaded 40-foot 
vertical using the 80 & 40m wires for top hat loading on 160/630m.  To 
do that I purpose to run 40-foot of ladder-line vertical and either load 
the bottom using a balun for 80/40m or short the ladder line for the 
loaded vertical.

http://www.kl7uw.com/630mTee.jpg

My question is what balun to use for 80/40m. ladder line is 200-300 ohm 
whereas the dipoles are near 50-ohm.  Should I use a 9:1 balun or would 
my original 1:1 balun work?  Tuners will be in the shack (KXAT at 100w; 
Drake MN-2000 at 1200w).  RG-13 coax to base of ladder-line.


I have a couple vac-relays to short the ladder-line and connect the 
loading coil for 160/630m.


Thanks, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] K3 NB Info

[Ed Cole]

I'm trying to use the DSP NB on local noise to improve my 6m reception 
of very weak signals (i.e. eme signals).


There are three ranges of DSP NB T-1, T-2, and T-3 with level settings 
of 1 to 7.  The levels are self explanatory, but have found no 
description about the three ranges (application, function, etc)


I've inquired of fellow K3 owners that do eme and they say it improves 
SNR with no deterioration of digital signals (specifically JT65 or Q65). 
 FT8 is probably a good test and more widely used.


Opinions and recommendations.

My 6m local noise peaks to S7 in the NE and drops to S2 when antenna is 
rotated to SE thru West.  Elevating 13-degrees also helps, dropping S7 
to S4.


Tnx & 73, Ed - KL7UW
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Re: [Elecraft] Power supply for KX3

[Ed Cole]

I would just keep the Astron-35 (I bought one in 1980 and still works).
But I upgraded to a Astron-50M years ago and it supplies the entire 
shack (fused at 30A).  I also use a 28v Astron for supplying 24v devices.


But Astron makes 8A and 10A switching supplies (we started swapping them 
out for older Astron analog PS at work).


Since the KX3 takes AA batteries so just install them (and keep buying 
them forever).  


I have 50v-50A PS: three are surplus HP telephone switching supplies and 
newest is a Meanwell RSP3000.  All require ferrites to keep them quiet. 
Need these to power my QRO LDMOS amps on HF/6m, 2m, and 1296.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] Ferrite Torroid RF filters

[Ed Cole]

I used a F140-43 torroid with three turns to filter switching noise from 
my HP 226519-001 "blade" 50v 50A PS:
6m_control_panel_back_3.jpg (825×619) (kl7uw.com) 


used clamp-on ferrite filters on the 240vac hot wires.

So when I obtained a new Meanwell RSP-3000-48 switching supply to 
replace the HP, I used a similar method using two ferrite torroids sized 
for RG-8x with two clamp-on beads for good measure.  On the 48v output I 
used two torroids sized for RG8 in series with an extra loop thru them both:

http://www.kl7uw.com/6M-EME-CONTROL.jpg

I see no switching noise on my K3 that is only two foot from the PS.  
The coax beads are probably mix-31 as they are sold for the general HF 
ham market as common mode RF filters on coax lines.


The original tip for filtering the HP PS came from Lance-W7GJ who did 
many of the first conversions of the Harris ch.2 TV linears to 6m ham use.


I am building a 1200w MRF1K50H HF/6m (W6PQL) linear to replace my Harris 
to use with my K3/10 driving with 3w to the new amp.  So I will be 
running QRO on HF in a couple months.


73, Ed - KL7UW
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[Elecraft] Fun on 14.074 today

[Ed Cole]

Well it started out troubleshooting why I had bad SWR with the new 20m 
dipole I put up.  And (of course) it was the RG-58 coax jumper I had 
used for umpteen years without trouble.  So realizing that my broken 
tri-band yagi might not be broken, I tried 20m and it tuned up nice with 
my KXPA100/KXAT100.  SWR was about 3.9 without tuning (very old trap yagi).


So I listened to the FD a bit on SSB then tuned in FT8 on 14.074 (wholly 
Moses, the bandwidth was clobbered with signals).  So with only 100w I 
tried a few contacts.  In the last two hours of FD, I made 11-contacts 
(and messed up 12).  Best was working BH2UEZ in PM08 (China) with my 
yagi pointed East.


worked: BC,UWA,SV,SCV,UT,WY,LAX, and OR.  About an hour at 100w the amp 
started faulting (surmised over-temp and lowered power to 30w, finally 
running my k3/10 barefoot).  Also checked 15m and 10m for tuning (all 
good).  Maybe the "old girl" still has some kicks!


Other news I am building a MRF 1K50H LMOS HF/6m amp.  Cited at 1200w, it 
will replace my Harris ch.2 TV amp that I use on 6m.  When new amp is 
running I will sell the Harris with the HP 50v PS I have been using 
(bought a new Meanwell RSP-3000-48 to replace it).


Getting ready to pour concrete to re-set my 2m-eme tower.

73, Ed - KL7UW (1D AK)
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 user... Can't figure out how to set up, and use sub receiver

[Ed Cole]

When I first set up for digital modes on my K3 (probably in 2010) when I 
long-pressed DATA MD and rotated VFO-B to select DATA-A it came up in 
LSB instead of USB.  I was on 28-MHz so SSB ran USB, but not DATA.  I do 
not recall exactly, but I forced it to USB (I think using the MODE 
button).  Never had it change sidebands in DATA-A after that.


Of course several updates of firmware since then so maybe it was a bug 
that got fixed??


I'm still using firmware rev 5.67 (should probably update it).

---

Note: New in my shack is an IC9700 (talk about complicated and then 
there is the whole touch screen nonsense).  Spectrum display will be 
nice, though.  I already get that with my SDR-IQ running in parallel 
with the K3.


I might be on 6m FT8 during FD from home.  My HF triband appears shot 
(atu will not tune it-guessing problem with the traps) so no luck for 
running 20-10m.  I have a potential replacement from an estate sale.


73, Ed -KL7UW

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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Pro 7 headset with KX3 - RF feedback?

[Ed Cole]

My hearing aids have blue tooth but require an interface to use it with 
my iphone.  The interface is a wireless remote control for the hearing 
aids and came with a very small thing that plugs into audio sources via 
a mini-phone plug.  That sends the sound via BT to the remote and on to 
my hearing aids.  Haven't used it much but that might work better than a 
headset.  I didn't note any latency.


I have a K3, KX3, and new IC9700 which all provide ext audio. The issue 
for lengthy use is the remote rechargeable battery life is short (maybe 
two hours).


Note to Jim:  Yes I realize its audio feedback in the CM500. Have no 
problem using my Sony MVR-V600 headphones or my Bose noise-cancelling 
headset.  Suggestion that I wear headphones without hearing aids does 
not work for me.  Hearing loss is not just a factor of amplitude (I 
cannot hear tones above 4-KHz). Loss is >100 dB.  My hearing aids 
provide 22 channel digital processing and I still need closed captioning 
watching TV.


Digital modes are best for doing weak-signal ham radio as I can see the 
computer FB.


Ed - KL7UW


Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2021 12:04:25 -0700
From: Rick NK7I 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Heil Pro 7 headset with KX3 - RF feedback?
Message-ID: <21dc0253-acd8-71a6-e9aa-4341a183c...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Slight topic change, apologies.

Has anyone used rx audio via Bluetooth into their hearing aids? Any issues?

I was hoping the K4 would have BT audio, but it doesn't.? So the next
best option would be to send the sound card audio to BT in a computer,
linked to the aids or headset...? I don't have my K4 yet, so it's a guess.

73,
Rick NK7I


On 6/18/2021 11:58 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 6/18/2021 11:34 AM, Ed Cole wrote:

I wear hearing aids and the CM500 immediately set up a loud howl the
minute I put them on (even with not being plugged into the radio).?
Apparently my hearing aid gain is so high the CM500 provided feedback
to the hearing aid mics - I have two with my OTE (over the ear)
hearing aids.

That's acoustic interaction of the earphones with your aids, and
depends on the placement of the mics in the aids. Mics for the aids
are picking up their own amplified sound, because the acoustic space
around the ear is modified by the presence of the earphones. In sound
systems, we call that feedback. It makes sense that different
headphones would interact differently with aids, depending on the
construction of both.

My XYL uses aids where the mics are outside the ear. She doesn't use
headphones when she's wearing them.

73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Heil Pro 7 headset with KX3 - RF feedback?

[Ed Cole]

Here we go again:  "The favorite headset topic".

Most of you who have been on this list a few years might recall when I 
tried out a Yamaha CM500 headset.  I wear hearing aids and the CM500 
immediately set up a loud howl the minute I put them on (even with not 
being plugged into the radio).  Apparently my hearing  aid gain is so 
high the CM500 provided feedback to the hearing aid mics - I have two 
with my OTE (over the ear) hearing aids.  I sold the brand new Yamaha to 
a reader for a good discount.


For  years I have worn a Sony stereo headset.  So to add a boom mic I 
bought the AntLion unit.  It has a nice earth magnet button that one 
sticks onto the headset.  The mic boom attaches nicely with magnetics.  
On air reports good with standard or cardiod pattern selected.


I've only used it with my K3/10, so this does not directly answer use on 
the KX3 (which I also have).


Big soft foam ear muffs are comfortable over my hearing aids for hours 
of use.  "If it ain't broke, why change".  I use a venerable old Heil 
HM10 desk mic on the K3 when not needing a boom mic.


Ed - KL7UW

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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and DEMI transverter

[Ed Cole]

Previous to 2010, I was using a FT-847 for 50,144,432 MHz and a DEMI on 
1296 with 144 IF.


That was the year I bought my K3-10* (since updated with new synth).  I 
bought DEMI 144-28, 222-28, 432-28* and 1296-28 transverters as better 
design filtered LO better making 28-MHz a good choice for use with my 
K3.  Note: * indicates use of PLL locked to 10-MHz reference resulting 
in less than 2-Hz max drift on 28-MHz.  Choice of LO frequency is 
determined by ability to reject LO feed thru (primarily). Picking a too 
low IF can lead to troubles.


I also have DEMI 3400-145* and 10,368-144* transverters.  Use of 144 or 
432 as IF at 1296 and above is common.  They use the N5AC A32 PLL to 
lock LO.  The A32 is now NLA so look at DEMI digiLO as replacement.  
Currently using an OCXO as 10-MHz ref but will switch to GPSDO this summer.


Eventually Elecraft will offer 144 and 432 transverter modules for the 
K4.  Will be curious what IF is chosen.


73, Ed - KL7UW


On 2 Jun 2021, at 15:46, Mooneer Salem  wrote:

Personally, I like choices, so I've considered getting a 10MHz IF if I ever
got deep into transverters.

I would be concerned that the 10MHz station reference would appear as an in 
band signal.

The other IF commonly used is 14MHz (by Kuhne for example), but we use 28MHz on 
all our VHF and up contest transverters. If you want to see how we do with this 
arrangement  look up G5LK/P and G3M in the UK listing for the major portable 
contests.

Stewart/G3YSX

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