Re: [h-cost] Costume, clothes, regalia, garb, etc
Instead of the Costume Society of America, it could be the Historical Habiliments Society of America. Those of us who belong to the Costumers Guild, could call ourselves the Raiments Guild. Or maybe not. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 11:10 AM, Martha Kelly marthake...@nyc.rr.com wrote: We just spent the weekend with outdoorsy friends who refer to all their parkas and waterproof pants and windbreakers and hiking boots and such as gear. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume, clothes, regalia, garb, etc
*giggle* Sounds great! Because the word costume is so confusing. --cin Cynthia Barnes, GBACG CGW cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Oct 12, 2010 at 12:52 PM, Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com wrote: Sure, Cynthia, Do you want me to put that on the agenda for the annual meeting? ;) Ann Catelli Pres. ICG --- On Tue, 10/12/10, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Those of us who belong to the Costumers Guild, could call ourselves the Raiments Guild. Or maybe not. --cin Cynthia Barnes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Prym/Dritz dress forms
It is the one true dress form. Get it. Dont bother with dial a dummies, duct tape ones or any of the non-pliable types. I've had mine for 20 yrs and it's put up with moderate use abuse... including 2 overseas moves. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Oct 6, 2010 at 2:42 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: My local Hancock Fabrics is having a sale with Prym/Dritz dress forms (the Twin Fit and My Double models) at $40 less than the usual price. I've never had a dress form, and I'm wondering whether to take advantage of this sale. Does anyone here have this kind of dress form? Is it good quality, or not worth bothering with? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Gray Line Linen
Thanks Marion, That's *exactly* what I wanted to know. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com -- Forwarded message -- From: Marion McNealy m_mc_ne...@yahoo.com I can only vouch for the grades of linen that I've purchased and how I've used them so your mileage may vary. Their handkerchief linen is the BEST! I adore it, its very smooth, not slubby and tightly woven, so you won't get the pulling at the seams like the linen from fabric-store.com. I love all the chemises and veils that I've made from it. (Do you remember the old Denver Fabrics handkerchief linen from 6-7 years ago? Its just like that, only better) Yes, it would make a lovely embroidered shirt. The medium Judy linen worked wonderfully for a linen kirtle and lining a Tudor wool gown and jacket. I used the Warsa as an interlining, on the kirtle. The Warsa (heavy) linen is so lovely, not stiff once washed but not shifty either. BTW, you can order sample cards, and they come with a 4 section of fabric that is not glued down all the way so you can feel the weight and texture. Marion McNealy - Original Message From: Cin cinbar...@gmail.com Ladies Gents, Thouse of you who've bought from Gray Line Linen: http://www.graylinelinen.com/home/, I have a easy question for you. I'm curious what the qualifiers Light (Barry) Medium (Judy) and Heavy (Warsa) really map to, in both practical historical terms. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Gray Line Linen
Ladies Gents, Thouse of you who've bought from Gray Line Linen: http://www.graylinelinen.com/home/, I have a easy question for you. I'm curious what the qualifiers Light (Barry) Medium (Judy) and Heavy (Warsa) really map to, in both practical historical terms. There's a group of us, who've decided we want a variety of linen garments. Would you make a fine, embroidered English or Italian Renn shirt of the hankie or light linen? How about a 1930s-40s tropical suit for a gent? A cotehardie? Thanks for the help, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Mullets: Out of Style, and Now Illegal
Mullets: Out of Style, and Now Illegal in Iran and thank goodness for that! This story just out in Time magazine this week. Here's the teaser for the article. It's a tough time to have a mullet in this world. First, you get ridiculed for looking silly, and if you live in Iran, the government could fine you for your 'do. Iran has just released guidelines for men's hairstyles in an attempt to rid the country of decadent Western cuts. You're in the clear if you have a short, conservative haircut - and you can use hair gel, just not a lot. The government is even cool with side parts and Elvis-style poufs. But if your hair is long, spiky, or be-mulleted, beware. And don't you dare think of plucking your unibrow. The punishment for first-time offenders is a short, unflattering cut, and after that Iran imposes fines. Click on [pictures] to see Western styles that would get Iranians in trouble. http://newsfeed.time.com/2010/07/07/mullets-out-of-style-and-now-illegal-in-iran/#ixzz0tD7g5qO0 --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pattern for Civil War Era coat
I was just going thru my collection of Harper's Bazaar issues from 1868-71. There are several issues with full sized patterns for cloaks, hoods, wraps paletots. I was planning on putting the journals out for sale at Stanford Historic Dance Week (next week). If you dont mind being a smidge fashion forward, you cant get a better pattern than the real thing. I have about a dozen journals. At least 3 have full pattern sheets for as many as 8 garments. One issue focuses specifically on outwear. Make an offer, if you're interested, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 3:22 PM, Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: I cannot find a pattern for a Civil Ware era lady's coat. Im thinking 1861. Suggestions? Yours in costuming, Lis aA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pattern for Civil War Era coat
On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 3:46 PM, Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: Just need to know--was the basic shape still the same? Pretty much fitted around the torso then flaring out? What kind of sleeves? If the shape is basicallyt he same, I would be interested, although I have no AFAICT very broadly speaking, capes, cloaks mantles are not fitted, but a paletot seems to be either shaped or belted. idea what it would be worth. What were you hoping to get for it? I am used to getting old H Arper's MAgazine issues from the 1870's through 1890's very inexpensively, maybe anywhere from free to $5 per issue. Obviously the patterns would be totally awesome, to a ctually make a coat (as long as the shape would be the same as for early 1860's). Yes, I am very interested int eh outerwear one. answered offlist Also, and this may seem trivial, when doing buttonholes on teh dress bodice (and the coat), would the buttonholes more commonly be vertical or horizontal? They run horizontally on these. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Asian fabrics in Victorian era?
Certainly in Japan! The Bunka Gakuin had an exhibit of Worth gowns made for the Imperial Court and assorted lords ladies, ambassadors that sort. Lots of Asian designs of birds flowers especially those invoking the seasons, such as peonies, cranes. Imperial chrysanthamums in profusion, of course. There's another yellow Worth gown with a design of Chinese stylized clouds and Japanese rising sun rays. You can also look thru the Kyoto Museum of Costume catalog for some ideas. Over the last couple centuries, seems like every 20 years or so there's a fad for Chinoiserie or Japanoiserie. There's a framed Peterson's fashion plate hanging on the wall in my dining room entitled Receiving in the Japanese Room May 1879. The (western) ladies wear mildly Asian fabric design made up as completely typical European fashions. The lady wearing a dolman with very Chinese designs is bowing Japanese-style. I also have two triple ukyio-e (Japan 1880s) hanging showing the Imperial court in semi-Western fashions. There's another big rush for Asian designs (nearly any ethnic design, really) after WWI. These arent brocades, tho. I'll send you a few photos off-list, if you like. Yoroshiku, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 1:14 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: With all the current discussion on Victorian era clothing (something I am trying to learn more about), I was wondering when Asian fabrics might have been used, if at all? Or is that something that comes in later, like Edwardian era or later? The reason why I ask is I have some Asian brocade fabrics in my stash that was originally meant for a larp costume, but I am pondering using it for a Victorian winter ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 19th c women's dress - pockets
While this tale occurs a good bit before the ACW not in the US, there's nothing quite so wonderful as fashion documentation in their own words. The following is heavily excerpted from Edward Cree's “Naval Surgeon – The Voyages of Dr Edward Cree, Royal navy as Related in His Private Journals 1837-1856”. You'll find that a lady's pocket is featured. Swedish Consul’s Ball, Alexandria, 1838 We received an invitation to a ball at the Swedish Consul’s in honour of the Swedish squadron here. We landed at 8:30pm and found a crowd with torches outside the house and a guard of Swedish marines from their ships. About 700 people were present – Swedes, Norwegians, French, Russians, Dutch, Spanish, Italians, Greeks and Turks in their various costumes. Not that many English, as it was a Sunday. There were lots of pretty girls, especially the daughter of the Spanish Consul, with whom I had the pleasure of waltzing, although we could not understand one another’s speech. There was also a lovely Greek girl in the costume of her country. Many Turkish and Egyptian officers in gaudy uniforms of scarlet and gold. There were plenty of partners, though non of them that I met could speak English. I was introduced to a pretty Italian girl, whose name I forget, but we were so well pleased with each other that we danced together for the remainder of the evening. Sweetmeats were plentiful; 300 pounds, I hear, were ordered from one confectioner alone in Alexandria; and there was plenty of negus and lemonade, and claret and water. The supper was at a buffet in another room and there was plenty of cold chicken and cold meat, with jellies, creams and ices, which was done justice to, especially by the ladies who crowded up to the buffet and, after eating as much as they could, pocketed many of the good things. One stout middle-aged French woman was engaged in filling her pockets which were stuffed out with cold chicken and sweet cakes as she stood before me. I was eating a custard – the opportunity was tempting – so I emptied my glass into her open pocket, and a nice mixture she must have found when she got home. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com 2010/6/8 Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com: 2. What about pockets? I cannot find any references or photos that show skirts had pockets--were they still using a little pouch tied at the waist under the dress? Is it reasonable to design a watch pocket in the skirt? Yes pocket, in the waistband seam. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - pockets
I cant imagine why she'd put chicken cake in the *same* pocket. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Jun 8, 2010 at 3:42 PM, Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com wrote: One stout middle-aged French woman was engaged in filling her pockets which were stuffed out with cold chicken and sweet cakes as she stood before me. I was eating a custard – the opportunity was tempting – so I emptied my glass into her open pocket, and a nice mixture she must have found when she got home. That... is one LARGE pocket. I can't imagine putting chicken and cakes and more into the little pockets of my modern clothing. Kimiko ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dress forms
Cin, what sort of stocking do you suggest using for the bird seed? I have a foam dummy, and I love her (she's named Bessie Blunt, LOL! Cin, what sort of stocking do you suggest using for the bird seed? And why how ace bandages for padding? Hey Kimiko! Double bag with old kneehigh stocks or panty hose to make a little pouch. Lentils work pretty well, too and they're larger. They dont escape thru a tiny hole in the stocking roll to the least accessible part of the room. Dressmakers pins easily go thru the pouch. Make a pouch the breadth of one rebreast top, yet thin and still very squishy, stretchy pliable. Hacky-sac tight is way too tight will be lumpy. This is all sort of rule-of-thumb-ish. I'm nearly flat-chested, so a handful of seeds/lentil is a big change. ...why how ace bandages for padding? I padded mine with poly batting in the areas I needed, under the cover. I'm just picturing the ace bandage going round and round the body - and that doesn't seem right so I am thinking you are doing something different. Nope, it's pretty much as you describe. Both of these techniques are for making minor, temporary adjustments that dont merit the resizing of the Uniquely You cover. When I put on a corset, my assets lift a bit. The foam in the cover, does not lift at all; it merely compresses. The seed/lentils imitate the lift. The smoothly wrapped ace keeps the pouches in place. Similarly, there are times when you have gained or lost just a smidge, or when my dummy can be tweeked in a minor way to imitate one of my friends who's nearly my body double, but not quite. I can give the dummy slightly larger hips or a thicker waist in moments. It gives my friend a way to see her gown on her body, rather than mine. On the downside, it's a high touch solution compared to the quick dirty adaptions. The seed/lentil pouches are more comforming than using old shoulder pads as breast, shoulder, shoulder blade, hip re-sculpturing. (Yes, I do the quilt batt scrap trick, too.) For a closely fitted gown, maybe it's worth your time. For box cut jackets, you might not want to spend the extra effort. --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] impressionists at the Legion of honor
Costumed vintage dancers are going Sunday June 27th. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com impressionists at the Legion of honor Posted by: kitsune miko kitsunem...@gmail.com kitsunemiko Wed May 19, 2010 1:52 pm (PDT) Are there any plans to attend this in costume as a group?? http://orsay.famsf.org/ Sandy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Impressionists at the Legion of Honor
Also, Friday, 28 May there will be a free evening event with Harlequin Musette (dancing encouraged, although I don't know what the dancing surface is like). http://www.famsf.org/deyoung/calendar/day.asp?categoryid=53calendarid=5475day=5%2F20%2F2010 As a friend said: Plus on est de fous, plus on rit! (Roughly: The more the merrier!) --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 11:44 AM, Cin cinbar...@gmail.com wrote: Costumed vintage dancers are going Sunday June 27th. --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Wigs for the gray :)
Marjorie, Vong's Wig Shop, downtown San Jose, carries several manufacturers' products. Take them a photo of the style you're looking for. Wigs are their strong point, not their English skills. I've gotten falls, switches even a full wig of the Thomas Jefferson variety. FWIW, you can really do lots better if you're willing to pay a little more than rock bottom, IMHO. You'll get the shine/no shine, frizz/smooth and texture that you want only when wigs hairpieces are in your hand. Once you find the manufacturer color code that you want, then you can bargain hunt elsewhere. Also, while the industry likes to pretend that the color codes are universal, t'aint so! Yes, I'd love to go with you, thanks for asking! grin --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Subject: [h-cost] Wigs for the gray :) My long hair has been working on going gray for the last 20 years, and has been phenomenally successful at it. Now, I'm interested in hairpieces to add to my historical illusion. Trouble is, affordable hairpieces don't seem to come in gray. Why should the dark-haired get all the fun? So, I need a referral to an online source that has affordable, gray hair extras like perhaps a blob of curls, an 1880s curlybang, or long hair which can be styled into an Apollo knot for Regency. Please? With my thanks! == Marjorie Wilser ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT regional english for mangle
Thank you Julian for your fabulous personal account. It made for very interesting reading on this otherwise dull rainy day. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 18:39:34 + (GMT) From: julian wilson smnc...@yahoo.co.uk To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] OT regional english for mangle Ok, Guys and Gals, ?there is obviously a terminology divide between the UK and the USA, as well as a Time divide here. May I put in a comments from an ageing Britisher? ?Most of you who remember an ironing mangle? being used by your female relatives seem to have grown-up in the USA, post WW2 - quite a long way after, at that. snipped to be concise ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] lining for panne velvet// Quesstion on ironing
Pardon me for butting in... Fiber makes a difference. Dont even try to fuse plastic velvets. The fusible temp the softening temps are too close. You're likely to get iron-prints crushed areas on your velvet. Now, how to put that fusible on the back of a natural fiber velvet. I'd use something light weight like Fusi-Knit as you dont want the velvet to lose it's wonderful drape. Just put a terry towel on your ironing board. Place the velvet face down. The nap of the towel prevents the nap of the velvet from crushing. Leave it to dry in place on the towel Really. Turn off the iron walk away. When you pick your pane up off the towel, you can revive any crush areas with steam a toothbrush, if you have a natural fiber velvet. This doesnt work with plastic velvets. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Did? ironing on the interfacing flatten the pile? to any degree ? I have seen Panne velvet really cheap but was put off by the stretch factor, I wondered if fusable interfacing would cure this., but worried about the pressing making more problems then? it cured. melody ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Sourcing Buckram was: Re: plans for Yule/Solstice/whatever new costume
Thanks all, including the ones who replied privately, for all the buckram info. (Who knew it was called Crown Buckram?!) This list with it's broad spectrum of eras areas of interest is just the best. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] plans for Yule/Solstice/whatever new costume projects Message-ID: 8296995c0912021240o39317caelc4166ec381d48...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Hi Cin, I don't know Silicon Valley at all but you might try Stone Mountain Daughter in Berkeley. Last time I needed the double-weight theater buckram they had it. Give Lacis a skip on that one. If you can't find what you want, you can use two pieces of regular buckram larger than the correct size. Lay one down on your ironing board and spray it with water. Take the second piece and lay it on the bias of the first and steam it together. Leave it alone until it is completely cool and dry. I can't promise it will stay for the twisting manipulations for a hennin but it works beautifully for the hats I've made. LynnD ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] plans for Yule/Solstice/whatever new costume projects
Does anyone want to share any plans for Yule/Solstice/whatever new costume projects? On the short list, I have in the works: A 1540s Tudor ensemble, the fitted gown in chocolate colored Melton cloth is done except for the hem as it awaits completion of the boned petticoat. The tiny bones from the rarest plastic whales are in place. Separate sleeves are also done. A pair of farthingale sleeves for a 1580s court gown. Stanford Dance Week is going to include the Renn dances for the first time in forever! Several hennins are in the works. Having used up all my buckram, where on earth (or in SIlicon Valley or even online) can one find medium or heavy or monster buckram suitable for hats? I usually buy a bolt, so it's been quite a few years since I needed to acquire any. Joann's has nothing useable. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Metallic thread head to head
Every once in a while I get to jonesing for some metallic machine embroidery. I've always been frustrated with Sulky, it strips nearly instantly shreds. So I went off to the posh sewing store got some best of class metallics. One brand is Superior Threads the other is Japanese (which I cannot type here) sold in the US as KingStar. My two experimental setups used the standard setup for my machine (darning foot, drop feed dogs, change pressure foot setting, change bobbin thread path): 1. Silk taffeta, Metallica needle, (no stabilizer). 2. Same as above, adding 2 layers Tear-Away stabilizer. I did experiments 1 2 with each brand and have no complaints about either. Both blow the socks off stupid Sulky. Neither stripped or shredded ever. Pricewise, KingStar is about 1/2 as expensive. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Looking for Liz Martin
We met at the GBAGC costume swap. Could you please contact me off-list about Bernina/Viking blackwork? Thanks! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Madeleine Albright's Jewelry-Box Diplomacy
Did anyone hear the NPR chat Madeleine Albright's Jewelry-Box Diplomacy (see also the article by the same name at http://www.npr.org/templates/story/story.php?storyId=113278807sc=fbcc=fp). Speaking thru clothes... it just doesnt end. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Victorian-era civilian events in the Washington
And while in Baltimore, visit the Walter's Art Gallery - thewalters.org. It's stuffed full of Pre-Raphaelite brotherhood romantic paintings. Made my little Victorian heart go pitter-pat! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Baltimore isn't that far away - how about the Poe Funeral in Oct? http://www.poebicentennial.com/events.html -Judy Mitchell Mara Riley wrote: A friend at work who is interested in Victorian literature asks whether there are Victorian-era civilian events that he could go observe in the Washington, DC area (he's not a reenactor). Any suggestions? It's out of the timeframe I usually do. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Another view of the back of a costume
A long time ago, someone on this list suggested that the book we need someone to publish would be called Hey Lady, Turn Around! I admit to posting that, but the proposed title came from Kayta Barrows (also on this list) from a face 2 face comment she made to me. I suggested the companion volumes, Hey Mister, Turn Around! and of course, Hey Kid, Turn Around! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Tue, Sep 22, 2009 at 11:00 AM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: Send h-costume mailing list submissions to h-cost...@mail.indra.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to h-costume-requ...@mail.indra.com You can reach the person managing the list at h-costume-ow...@mail.indra.com When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of h-costume digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Another view of the back of a costume (Maggie) 2. Re: Another view of the back of a costume (K?the Barrows) 3. Re: Another view of the back of a costume (Chiara Francesca) -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 14:25:35 -0700 From: Maggie maggi...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another view of the back of a costume Message-ID: f7bcb0f20909211425n7454c2e0ycda7b9982f0e7...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 A long tme ago, someone on this list suggested that the book we need someone to publish would be called Hey Lady, Turn Around! My problem is that so often a painting includes one gown from the front and one from the back, but how do I know that this back is the back of this front? :-) The perils of research... MaggiRos Maggie Secara ~A Compendium of Common Knowledge 1558-1603 Available at your favorite online bookseller See our gallery at http://www.zazzle.com/popinjaypress 2009/9/21 K?the Barrows kay...@gmail.com That was in Jost Amman's Book of Trades (occupations), republished by Dover. Many back views, and side views too, in that book. On Mon, Sep 21, 2009 at 9:30 AM, Chiara Francesca chiara.france...@gmail.com wrote: One of the questions we get a lot on this list is how does the back of this garment or that garment look like within its period. I am working a contract for a book warehouser and saw this series (there are several books in this series). Here is a book cover that actually has an image of such a garment's view. https://new.mybooksandmore.com/MBM/popups/product_image.jsp?image=9780763776213 -- Message: 2 Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 14:36:50 -0700 From: K?the Barrows kay...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another view of the back of a costume Message-ID: cc6102430909211436u7b92d178t50e12b6ca082b...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Thereal trick is to look at dozens of sources. Eventually you'll find side and back views of some of it. Not common. A long tme ago, someone on this list suggested that the book we need someone to publish would be called Hey Lady, Turn Around! My problem is that so often a painting includes one gown from the front and one from the back, but how do I know that this back is the back of this front? :-) The perils of research... -- Carolyn Kayta Barrows -- ?The future is already here, it is just unevenly distributed.? -William Gibson -- -- Message: 3 Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 17:32:39 -0700 From: Chiara Francesca chiara.france...@gmail.com To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another view of the back of a costume Message-ID: 4ab81b33.1a135e0a.2628.1...@mx.google.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Yeppers, I think we collectively should just start our own community website and start collecting said images. When we hit critical mass we begin to ask permission from the various museums for permission to publish a coffee table book of all those images with proceeds going to some charity. :D ? Chiara Francesca ? Ehi Prof.! Che cosa facciamo stasera?? ? Quello che facciamo tutte le sere, Mignolo: tentare di conquistare il mondo! ? (hint: italian) -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of K?the Barrows Sent: Monday, September 21, 2009 2:37 PM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Another view of the back of a costume Thereal trick is to look at dozens of sources. Eventually you'll find side and back views of some of it. Not common. A long tme ago, someone on this list suggested that the book we need someone to publish would be called Hey Lady, Turn Around! My
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
It's that time of year! We're planning for holiday parties, fall winter balls, company dinners, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night and theater season. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something spiffy on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your worktable, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 30s flight attendant uniforms
My cousin is president of the China National Aviation Corporation (CNAC ) she has what I think is a fun idea for the reunion this year. She thinks we should dress as stewardesses for the reunion. http://www.cnac.org/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/China_National_Aviation_Corporation She I typically tend bar as the pilots, navigators, ground team (now in their 80s 90s) swap lies do a little hangar flying. Does anyone know of sources for pictures, patches, pins, patterns accessories for the ladies' uniforms? At this point we'd start with most any 30s stews' uniforms improve them later. This is a fun, historical organization consisting of people who worked the Hump route in the late 30s early 40s, their family members aviation history buffs. CNAC was a supported China by flying supplies into Yunnan before the US actively joined the allies WWII. Thanks all, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 30s flight attendant uniforms found a bunch of photos
melody, thank you ! The CNAC thing is a party in 2 weeks. It's a reunion for the (mostly) Chinese American teams that worked in the Pacific theater before the US joined WWII. People from other nationalities were involved, too. www.CNAC.org has more about the event. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Ok here's a bonanza of info, scroll all the way down to the bottom. they go alphabetically the United States is on the bottom, has some from 1930s'. Interesting, one shows gals in uniforms that look like Nurses uni's ,as being an RN was a requirement early on to be a stew. Sounds like a? kind of party... melody ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 30s flight attendant uniforms
Thanks, Lynn. I just found NASM. National Air Space Museum, Udvar-Hazy Center, Smithsonian will all get you the URL. United donated a huge pile of early memorabilia. I remember that there's a green attendant's uniform there, but cant get good pictures of it. Not good enough to make a pattern from anyway. This is exactly the sort of thing we want to wear to the reunion. Thanks, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com When the Smithsonian took some of their wonderful items on the road, they had a room of airplane memorabelia, including uniforms and part of an airplane and a space capsule!. I cannot remember which company was (very) well represented (United? TWA?), but you might lookat the Smithsonian's website to see what they have. Lynn ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Adonis is wearing a burgundy silk doublet with appliqued striped metallic brocade and a velvet bonnet (flat cap) which I just finished. Whee! Euphrosnia is wearing sleeve verthingales 1/2 a lining mockup for trunkhose canions. The heads, Anne, Katherine Charles are wearing 19th c bonnets caps with ostrich parrot peacock feathers, respectively. The closet door frame sports three 20s 30s gowns as I dither over which to accessorize for the Gatsby picnic. The quilt rack holds the completed applique 30s stars quilt top that Euphrosnia was wearing last time this meme went 'round. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com It's that time of year! We're planning for holiday parties, fall winter balls, company dinners, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night and theater season. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Shirone gown
Thanks for all your comments on the Shinrone gown, everyone. It's certainly more than I knew before disappointing that there's not much else to go on. If there's a paper or even a mention in CSA or Dress, I'd like to have a heads up about it. Other than that, sounds like everyone's sharing the same 2-3 bits of info. *sigh* Still, it's all appreciated, --cin cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Fabric Stores Crystal City? DC?
Well the best fabrics store in DC is G Street Fabrics, but I dont know if any of them are near Metro stops. Certainly Fairfax circle isnt. I dont recall where the metro is near 7 Corners or Rockville. Have fun at the museum. Report back on anything good! --cin On Tue, Aug 11, 2009 at 1:58 PM, Althea Turner alt...@alfalfapress.comwrote: Any recommendations on a fabric store in DC, somewhere near metro? Going to the Textile Museum on Thursday. Yay! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Shirone gown
Ladies (and a few gents), Have any of you got informative comments to share on the Shirone gown? I'm looking at the front and wondering whether that placket is * cut on the straight grain like a Henrican kirtle distorted with age, wear and/or burial * cut on the straight CF but folded back in a slight V for a wider CF lacing area * really cut in a curve like that?! I've read Recontructing History's notes and would like confirming or contrasting facts, if you have any to share. Thanks all! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 266
Pickpockets. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Wed, Aug 5, 2009 at 11:00 AM, h-costume-requ...@indra.com wrote: My name is Sharon Doig and I am going on a textile tour to Gujurat, India. I? like making Victorian, edwardian, 1940's, medieval and tudor gowns and hats.? It's my first trip to India. Does anyone have suggestions, about what kind of things to buy or look out for when visiting a bizzar or a shopping street in India?? Cheers Sharon Doig. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bowing to the inevitable
So did I. And as Robin says, I'd be delighted to be friended as many of us have corresponded over the years, cheered on each other's projects, swapped suggestions resources. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Aug 3, 2009 at 3:38 PM, Robin Nethertonro...@netherton.net wrote: After much prodding from various people, I've put up a Facebook page. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CoCo Meet-up
How's about the balcony at the bar, 7p on Thursday for a first meet? ...maybe dinner in the hotel for those of us out of town types who want to start into classes the next morning. --cin From: Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com I'm thinking, the balcony at the bar? Should be enough room. We can be seen to be conspicuously having fun. What more can we ask? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CoCo Meet Up
Sign me up! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com From: Regina Voorhes reginalaws...@gmail.com Subject: [h-cost] Costume College Meet-up I would be happy to host a meet-up for H-Cos folks. I do need to know how much space we will need, so I would like to get an idea how many people might be joining us at CoCo. Who will be attending Costume College and would be interested in meeting up? Please email me with a subject line of CoCo Meet Up. Will we need a table in the bar, a corner of the dining room, or a whole room to ourselves? :) Looking forward to seeing you all, Regina Lawson Voorhes (name change in progress) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume College Meet-up
Regina, Delightful idea, I was about to suggest we meet in the bar or somesuch Friday or Saturday right after classes end. We could have a bit of tea or a bracing drink, before we dash off to dress. If you've got better ideas, and likely you do since this is my first time at College, then lead the charge! I'll follow. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com I would be happy to host a meet-up for H-Cos folks. I do need to know how much space we will need, so I would like to get an idea how many people might be joining us at CoCo. Who will be attending Costume College and would be interested in meeting up? Please email me with a subject line of CoCo Meet Up. Will we need a table in the bar, a corner of the dining room, or a whole room to ourselves? :) Looking forward to seeing you all, Regina Lawson Voorhes ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume College
I'm wearing 1750s gent's suit for the Gala 1880s ballgown for the Friday nite do. This is my 1st time at CoCo. Do people dress up during the day? I hadnt planned on it, because it's pretty crowded in classroom full of farthingales. --cin I'll be there, but I still don't know how I'm going to dress for Saturday night. (Not going to the Gala) but it won't be till after dinner. It's always just too warm and close for me to dress up during the day, and it's hard to sit in a class in a farthingale. :) I have the new Elizabethan to show off, though, so we'll see! MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume College
Speaking of summer costume events, will there be a flood of costumers sporting Red Hs at Costume College. And if so, what wonderous things are you wearing for the evening events? --cin cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What costume things did you learn in the 60s?
What costume things did you learn in the 60s? Tempera paint crayon masks, cutting holes for eyes in sheets. I think I learned to crochet about then to make bridles for my Breyer horses. I was a small kid in the 60s. PS. Really enjoying stories of what the college kids were doing in the 60s. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Temporary facial hair
Dear h-costume, Once again I need your gracious help. I've been invited to a bachelor party -- no girls allowed. I have to have a mustache or a beard. Where does one acquire such a thing? (Human Biology has failed me in this.) I know where to get the classic Groucho glasses may settle with that or an eyeliner mustache. (There's no requirement that it be a credible effort.) Also, are spirit gum glues latex-free? Thanks so much! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ribbon cockade for a tricorn hat
Y'all are the best! I'll dash down to the library Thanks so much Suzanne! Meanwhile, yes please Sharon, I'l love a copy of your handouts. Hopefully the styles arent too different between centuries. We do the meetup stuff off-list. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com From: Suzanne sovag...@cybermesa.com Cin, there was a brief article about Ribbonwork ornaments in issue #74 of Threads magazine (Dec 97/Jan 98) that showed how to fold a cockade, pinwheel, etc. You should be able to find back issues of Threads *some*where [we all hoard things...], or ask your library to request a photocopy of the article on Interlibrary Loan. And--let us know if the instructions worked! Suzanne From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com Cin, did you find the info you need? I have some info from Dickens, but it is pages and pages. I can get it to you if you still need it. Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Buillion braid for a tricorn hat
Thanks all! I'll search out a milinery needle have a go. And yes, Lynn, it's pretty heavy dense gold military style braid on a heavily sized, wool felt tricorn, so you're right, the beading needles tremble at the thought. I'm using gold colored silk thread as that appears to be almost invisible on my metal braid. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com If I'm thinking of what you'll be sewing, the metallic braid is hard to get through and those wimpy beading needles won't go through it. Milliners' needles, also called straws, will go through it and buckram, have large eyes and small bodies. They should accomodate the gold-colored thread you'll use and still not make big holes. Don't even bother trying to sew it down with metallic thread; it just won't hold up. Hope this helps. LynnD ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] No rings on middle finger
Yes, that's it much larger than the version I had. The awkward index finger fooled me. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Jun 22, 2009 at 3:25 AM, Elizabeth Walpole ewalp...@grapevine.com.au wrote: I assume you mean this image http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Mary_Nevill_and_Gregory_Fiennes_Baron_Dacre_v.2.jpg I see 4 fingers, though the index finger on her right hand is at a slight angle I could see how you could potentially mistake that for a thumb, her thumb would be on the other side of the glove she is holding, so that makes the second finger from the top her middle finger and it has no rings, whereas all her other fingers do Elizabeth ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Buillion braid for a tricorn hat
...and while I'm on this milinery thing... is there a special needle or technique required for sewing real metal buillion braid The #8 needle I'm using leaves gigantic holes. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Ribbon cockade for a tricorn hat
Gentle readers, I've been looking thru Candace Kling and Denise Dreher's books websites but cant find any good instructions for a two or three tone ribbon cockade. Likely I'm looking in the wrong place but dont quite know what to search for. My hope is to find some instructions to pleat, twist, braid or bead a hat trim suitable for my tricorn that I just blocked Wens. (So excited! I have a new skill!) Any ideas? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Balloon couture
A friend just sent this and I know you all appreciate good design and fine workmanship. Enjoy! http://www.diamondjam.com/fashionshow.htm Amazing. I'd never seen it before. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Advice on Web Presence
It's not clear to me whether you're looking to advertise a business, outline the research youve done, explain the process of construction or just host a brag book. I'm of the latter sort use Google pages, but I've heard it's closed to new members. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Here I come meandering along behind the times as usual, but I have been thinking that it is time to have a costume presence on the web, both for the purpose of organizing and storing information and providing information to others. Some of you on this list have the most marvelous sites, and I wondered if you all would mind sharing your thoughts on the best approach. Frex, journal vs. website, vs. blog? What should I look at in deciding on a format? I am leaning toward a website since I want to organize and categorize information, not present it in a linear fashion, like on a blog (assuming it is necessary to be linear on a blog, that is. Maybe it's not). Also, I want site to be accessible to the outside world. On the other hand, I have seen some outstanding LiveJournal pages, so a journal site is an option. What should I look for in choosing a host? How much storage capacity do I need (I intend to have lots of pictures as well as text)? What are my best web design options (I am a cyber-neanderthal remember--I am most comfortable in the 18th century).What other questions should I be asking that I do not know enough to ask? So many questions, I know, and honest--you don't have to write a thesis. But I would certainly appreciate any insight you might offer. Thanks in advance. Jane, techno-clueless in NO Va ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Plimoth embroidered jacket project
I dont know if the rest of you keep up with this, but there's drama at the Plimoth embroidered jacket project. Financial woes, lawsuits... As part of these changes, the blog will no longer be updated on this site but will be hosted by Tricia at www.thistle-threads.com/blog. Please continue to follow the progress of the jacket and research surrounding it by visiting it. New sessions, jacket progress, and research will all be posted at this new location. Read more: http://plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/index.php?mode=viewidpost_id=8 --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com I know you are not necessarily looking for info on the embroidery jackets but, just in case anyone has missed this, the Plimoth Plantation has a project on to recreated an embroidered jacket. The Wardrobe Manager is blogging about the project here: http://plimoth.org/embroidery-blog/index.php?mode=viewidpost_id=8 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question re: headkerchiefs
It's entirely possible that by 'headkerchief' she means the utilitarian yardsquare Henry VIII era head wrapping. It's not appropriate to the court wear that I suspect Sharon is aiming for in the Renn dance perfomance group she belongs to. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Sorry, but that description of a 'headkerchief'* resembles more of the 1940s, or an early modern neckerchief, than a head covering from any part of medieval times. *never heard the term 'headkerchief' before incidentally, although of course it was known as a 'coverchief' - I've always used veil for the bit that goes over your head (in earlier periods of one piece headdresses, this being the only part), and wimple for the bit that covers your throat (after it becomes a separate piece). Debbie On Wed, 27 May 2009 19:10:45 +0100 Anne anne.montgome...@googlemail.com writes: Could you describe more fully what you are terming a coif and a headkerchief? You bet! :-) Coif--the ubiquitous little cap-like thing everyone wore. Headkerchief--I suppose we'ld call them scarves nowadays. Take a square of fabric, fold it into a triangle, place on head, tie two points together in the back. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Quiet list?
Still doing the last bits of post CostumeCon putting away. Refinanced the house at a new nifty lower rate. Did a 19th c costume dance class for the French dept at UCSC. Writing a business plan to present to a banker. Voting about the budget crisis in the Calif special election. Considering a 1886 mega-bustle gown to wear to friends' wedding in July searching thru old patts, croquis, fashion plates. Distracted by summer wonderful-ness. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Hello out there - everyone must be busy, the list is so quiet. Sandy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Tear Away Stabilizer
I am working on my daughter's prom dress. There is an outer layer of organza that is very slippery. Is there a trick to keep it from sliding all over the sewing machine when stitching? On the list, I recall someone mentioning a few years ago, a tear away stabilizer. Can someone point me to a webpage that tells how to use this. All I have found are embroidery webpages. Hey Penny, Lovely meeting you at Costume Con! Tear-away stabilizer is for supporting a fabric during machine embroidery applique. I dont think it's appropriate in your sitch. (To use stabilizer, place it under the area to be embroidered; sew out the design thru fabric + 1-2 layers of stabilizer; tear away or cut, pick, tweeze away delicately so as no to distort the finished work; steam block the result.) You may also be thinking of those temp or perm fabric glues (stitch witch, etc). I'm not a fan as the residue can be stiff, tacky or staining. For pegging 2 organza layers together in prep for a seam, I use Z-basting... the same technique as used to anchor velvets before sewing. Imagine tailor's pad stitching only longer. The across stitches go either side of the seamline; the diagonals maybe 1 apart. An attempt at a picture: |/---|/|/---|/|/---|/ This is also commonly used to baste 3 layers of a quilt together. I have to finish the dress tonight. So I have to find a stabilizer at Hancock Fabrics, Joann's, or Michael's. Nothing like advice that's too late! BTW, I can't use the iron-on stabilizer because the organza, because the organza has a plastic type glitter on it. The glitter melt when an iron touches it. There's also Wash-Away stabilizer if your fabric is washable. Again, it's for embroidery appplique. You dont want iron-on... it will stick to your plastic stuff in a permanent gooey way. Yuk. --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 148
Ah, shucks--no Hester Prynne jokes? Ann Wass IIRC, back in the day that h-cost peeps first started meeting at CCxx we chose the Scarlet Letter H for exactly that reason. (Thanks for getting the joke!) Oh, the conversation's probably in the archives somewhere. Should we plan a meet up? Coffee in the AM, perhaps? I'll be the auxilliary backup hostess at the Hairspray party, along with Misch Lee whom I met on this list back when rocks were soft. H-costume is certainly welcome to call that a meetup place. See y'all tomorrow! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Dressing like an American
Presumably you've already considered religious differences in dress, gender differences, local fashion trends and the fact that NYC or LA ready to wear wasnt necessarily available thruout the region. I tried asking my Israeli spouse, but he made a face said I have no idea. For my part, when when my family lived in Athens in the 70s, dressing like an American meant those women who were wearing pants particularly jeans. We Americans also tended to be more casual in our dress whether at school or the American Club, but most especially for going out to dinner. We wore bikinis to the beach, but no Greek woman or girl did. My high school had 40-some different nationalities attending. Many you could pick out as different from their clothes alone. What was available in shops locally was not at all what was shown in the US teen fashion mags. The fabric designs, the default colorways, the cuts were all different. (Try on a pair of med to high end Euro style dress slacks compare with similar US dress slacks - you'll find the crotch length is much shorter in Euro styles.) Shoes were different. Jewelry hairstyles were different. The famous faces to emulate were different. It's the whole look that's different. Imagine my teenage angst at the horror of having to choose a prom dress from either a US catalog, a local shop or homemade. For us, dressing in the styles we were accustomed to, was definitely a statement of belonging to our own culture while surrounded by foreigners. The downside of that was of course that it made us targets for envy, ridicule, political controversy and teenage gang fights in Kefalari park. Just some random thoughts, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Hi all, Some of you who were alive back then might not consider this historic costume, but I thought this was a good place to ask this question. I was recently reading 'The Gabriel Hounds' by Mary Stewart, which is set in Lebanon in, I think the '60's (1960's that is). The narrator is English but has been living in America and at one point describes herself as 'dressing like an American'. I was curious how differently American and English women might have dressed at this time. Is this another way of saying that she dressed informally? Or wore trousers a lot? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] 18th Century Market Fair
That could be interesting. Thanks Judy! Might even be lucky convince some of the nieces nephews to go, too. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com --Forwarded Message-- Do you know about the 18th Century Market Fair at Fort Frederick that weekend (Apr 23-26)? Just head west on I70 to just a bit beyond Hagerstown (Big Pool, MD) and Ft Fred is a State Park. Many folks are in assorted garb, lots of assorted vendors, dunno if they're still doing the rendezvous shooting (I don't think so, but I could be wrong). http://www.friendsoffortfrederick.info/market_fair.htm -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] In Washington DC the week before CC27
Replying off-list --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com From: cc2010m...@cs.com And you are not the only one going! Do we want to try a meet up sometime over the weekend? Henry W. Osier Chairman, Costume-Con 28 May 7 to May 10, 2010 www.CC28.org ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] In Washington DC the week before CC28
Gentle H-costumers, I'm probably not the only one heading out early for CostumeCon; hopefully I can find some others. I'll be in DC between 22 and 30 April before going to CostumeCon in Baldermur, Merilnd as my family says it. I'm looking for h-costumers who might like to pal around for a weekday downtown, perhaps at the Smithsonian, Textile Museum or an art gallery. I'm looking for people available during the day, since I'll be on vacation. My spouse would rather eat paint than look at old clothes. OTOH, he will happily dance, so if you know of a venue with historic dancing, let us know. We'll pack something to wear. If you want to show us the ropes at Glen Echo in the Spanish Ballroom on Sunday 26 Apr, we'd love to meet up. Off the top of my head, here's some local museums that tend to have things of interest to h-costumers. Happy to take your suggestions, too. Thanks all, --cin Textile Museum www.textilemuseum.org/ current show: Recent Acquisitions March 6, 2009 - January 3, 2010 National Gallery http://www.nga.gov/exhibitions/index.shtm#current Heaven on Earth: Manuscript Illuminations from the National Gallery of Art March 1–August 2, 2009 Pride of Place: Dutch Cityscapes of the Golden Age February 1–May 3, 2009 NMAH Smithsonian http://americanhistory.si.edu/collections/costume/ Other possibilities: DAR Museum - http://www.dar.org/museum/musnews.cfm Specializes in early Americana National Portrait Gallery /www.npg.si.edu/ exhibits on Lincoln Marcel DuChamp ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1940s patterns
Fun project. It's a great era for suits. Another source is http://www.oldpatterns.com/ and Misch will sell you an original pattern. I also checked the vintage pattern lending library www.vpll.org/ but Jan doesnt have any suits available. Lots of dresses evening gowns, tho'. And FWIW, the Vogue patterns really are from their old catalog only the instructions markings are updated for modern seamstresses, or so I'm told. I have several like them lots.I have done the 1939 evening gown a heavily tailored jacket from the 30s 40s reprints. Just so you know, they do require a good fitting muslin they'll take a bit of tailoring expertise. The Simplicity's are too tamed or toned down to really read with that 40s flair. Of course, it's your choice; you get to wear it. --cin Cynthia Barnes (happy customer friend of owners) cinbar...@gmail.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1940s patterns The Vogue pattern looks like several 1940s suits that I have seen in museum collections. The Simplicity patterns look more like their patterns from the late 1970s/early 1980s patterns when they went through a retro of the 1940s. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency sleeve puffs
Thanks Hanna, Fran, Kathleen, Katy Suzi for the pics, pattern pointers descriptions. I'm glad to know it's ties. I'd been considering thread bars little hooks or even a little chemisette contraption. The MFA puffs look like a comfortable minimal solution. Katy, I'll see you in a few weeks! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Cin wrote: Ladies a few gents, I'm trying to find a better picture of a single garment with cotton sleeve puffs filled with down. There's a tiny picture in Payne showing a gal in all a mix of c1825-33 unmentionables. snip ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Regency sleeve puffs
Ladies a few gents, I'm trying to find a better picture of a single garment with cotton sleeve puffs filled with down. There's a tiny picture in Payne showing a gal in all a mix of c1825-33 unmentionables. She's wearing a short sleeved something with down-filled crescents to make those late 1820s-early 1830s sleeves take form. My question concerns the nature of the puffs. Does anyone have a better picture, museum description or similar garment? The garment was, when this photo was take, at the Gallery of English Costume, Manchester. The collection URL is http://www.manchestergalleries.org/the-collections/search-the-collection/ but doesnt fully describe the puffs. I'm particularly seeking construction attachment details. The book, Blanche Payne's, History of Costume, 1st ed. p. 492. Thanks all, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] silent film era scrap book
There's a silent movie theater, film fest museum in Niles, Calif. http://www.nilesfilmmuseum.org/festival2008.htm I'm not intrigued enough to contact the museum, but perhaps the owner of this lovely scrap book is. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Is there some museum dedicated to old black and white films? Maybe they could help identify some of the photos. It might even be worth something to them. It is quite a documentation of photos from that era. With a bit of work it would be a wonderful edition with labels and additional infor on what you can get. Sincerely, Rebecca Rautine ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace
Thank you, Robin aquazoo. I really like the multiple strands thru multiple beads knotting ideas. Seems like a very sturdy solution. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace
Im planning a necklace, as an accessory to a 15th c Italian gown, and would like to know if, and how, to make one that is a continuous strand. The clerk at the bead shop didnt know how. All she wanted to do was sell me inappropriate findings. I'm sure there's a way, I just dont know what to call it so I can search online. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Arnolfi dags and pleats
I think I'd dig out some scrap wool and make a few samples. That's a lot of wool to cut up badly ruin. Do early samples on maybe a 12x12 piece work out the scale. Make your final samples big so you can get an idea not just of scale density of cuts, but of the droop, ravelling, directionality of the resulting mass. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com I have posted pictures and a journal entry here: http://wickedfrau.livejournal.com/1966.html http://pics.livejournal.com/wickedfrau/pic/3fze/g8 (Picture is here) I am wondering how big those dags and pleats areHunnisett thinks they are only 2 square. What do you think? Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Continuous knotting a necklace
Thanks ladies! (Becky, Sharon, CV) I've already pearl knotted in silk. The knots glue idea will probably suit. I think I can hide that bit inside a filigree bead. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com My mom uses plastic wrapped wire, and fastens the ends with a tiny (less than 1/8 sq.) crimp. Look at my pearls next time you see me. Sharon ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Mary I ???
It's not a painting. It's probably a scan of a print made by using either an engraving or a lithograph technique. Whether it was done last week or in the Victorian era, no one can tell. A lithograph is made by drawing on stone (lithos). Engravings by scratching on (usually) metal. Photolithography is a more modern adaptation of the basic tech. If you look at the roundness of the shadows, especially on the cheeks of the sitter, there is a shading style that is common to 19th c artists sketching for both techniques. What people are seeing is a style that was commonly used then for mass printing. Flip thru any of your Frank Leslie, Godey's or Peterson's issues and you'll see the techniques in use. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com Subject: An inquiring mind wants to know...How can people tell that it looks like a Victorian painting. What is the difference in the style of painting? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Rabbit - was: What kind of fur would you use for
Any fur that gets old dried out sheds. --cin Someone told me that rabbit (and cat) are one of the few furs that sheds and is a terrible mess? Anyone have that experience? Sg ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT-Equus heads and hooves
Anyone have good sources/instructions/suggestions for making the heads and hooves for the horses in Equus? I think I can probably figure out the heads. It's the hooves that I worry about. When you do chopines, how do you keep them on your feet? --that's kind of what the hooves are? Kate, My chopines are fitted over another slipper (pianelle). The chopine has a band over the ball of the foot, rather like a Dr. Scholl's clog. Here's their website: http://aands.org/raisedheels/ see Pictorial Commentary for some modern repros. The detailed build of my pair is under Lesson 1. They're intended as historical re-creation, not theater. I've done Ren dance in them, but they are not galliarde-friendly. I'd make more suggestions, but I doubt their utility: I'm not familiar with Equus. FYI, Google images came up with this: platform shoes. http://www.smc.edu/theatre/images/Equus/Equus1_24.htm --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 8, Issue 62
Euphrosnia is wearing 1580s doublet (work in progress), a 1890s corset, and 5 stars of a 1930s style applique quilt pieced together ready for ironing. Oh, and some mardi gras beads. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Yellow power tie?
Kate, I graduated college in 84 recall being a bit amused amazed that all the office guys were wearing pink. Yup. Pink shirt or pink shirt white collar cuffs. Either way, accessorize with a pinker tie. Med grey suit. I'm remembering Wash DC/ Beltway Bandit office wear. Straight guys, sales guys, IT guys, corner office guys all of 'em in pink. After that, moved to Silicon Valley where most arent sure what a tie is. As for your show, pink might give a different msg given the AIDS crisis context of the show. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com Subject: I realize it's now passe, but I'm doing a production of Angels in America that takes place in 1985-86. Kate ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
It's Oscar weekend, theater season, it's almost spring. There must be something! --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dry cleaning a large gown
Thanks ladies! --cin From: Talia tali...@gmail.com When I had my daughter's beaded wedding dress (with long train) cleaned after her reception, it was almost $300. But, it was an outdoor wedding and there was a good lot of mud on the hem from the rain. Talia From: Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com Tell them you want it done bulk, where they just clean it and hang it up. Priced by the pound. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume On Behalf Of Cin Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 5:43 PM Ladies gents, Do a quick sanity check for me, if you please. A friend I have been pricing the cleaning of a large silk beaded gown (think pretty full wedding dress in size) in preparation for a trip thru a professional dye bath. What's the going rate these days for just the cleaning, but not the finishing service? I'm sure this is appropriate only to the US group, but what the heck... Thanks y'all, --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Dry cleaning a large gown
Ladies gents, Do a quick sanity check for me, if you please. A friend I have been pricing the cleaning of a large silk beaded gown (think pretty full wedding dress in size) in preparation for a trip thru a professional dye bath. What's the going rate these days for just the cleaning, but not the finishing service? I'm sure this is appropriate only to the US group, but what the heck... Thanks y'all, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 5:22 PM, Angela Elsey ae... wrote: she quoted me $45 then suggested $40. She seemed to understand that it only needed cleaning for dyeing. a On Feb 5, 2009, at 5:12 PM, Cin wrote: Did you get a better price or just clarify that you dont want it pressed boxed. Be sure she gets a price knowing that you are immediately sticking it in a dye bath. --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] evening gown circa 1934
Absolutely everything just as the writer below says. I tend to think of it more as an ice cream colors era. Big florals were in fashion as a summer thing in a few years. It would help if you'd give us more context next time. Hollywood startlet is likely more sparkly than the recent widow at a small social among close friends. Summer fashion differs from winter. Look at vintage magazines (Life) or vintage pattern pictures (www.oldpatterns.com big 4 pattern companies) for some ideas. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com There are extant examples and designs in just about every colour you can imagine - pinks, greys, greens, black (a perenniel favourite!), blues, greens, whites and ivories - there are even a couple in gold or silver lame, or prints. Particular faves of mine are a gold lame overlaid with black lace which in turn is appliqued with black velvet (by schiaparelli), and a pale pink loosely pleated silk jersey number (by alix gres), a Cadbury's purple satin by Lanvin, a Chanel in blue sequinned tulle, and one in leopard print by a designer I don't remember the name of (but it's in the va, like several of my favourites). I know there are a few, but the 30s is one of my all time favourite periods! . And when I was little my Nana had a stunning pale green satin evening dress, with light silver and pink beading, that she made as part of her training course in the mid 30s. I'm not aware that any colours in particular are massively inappropriate, although obviously there would have been certain colours that were more fashionable than others, as with any date. Debbie What colors would be appropriate for an evening gown circa 1934? What colors would be totally INappropriate? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question
Aylwen, I would build a corselet into the gown's bodice. It's a period thing to do (if the wearer isnt too zoftig) and it gives the correct high-bust silhouette. Your performers get period appropriate modesty (er, more or less) and reasonable support. They also *must* wear the correct undergarment as it's built in. Ha! You can trick them into it! You can find a croquis for a bib-front gown c1803 in the patterns section of Blanche Payne's book. While I rather doubt your antique is the same style, this one will show you some methods to attach the corselet inside the gown. This isnt a solution for all age groups or body types, but as you've said they're performing dancers, I've assumed a certain level of mobility body carriage. Wont you please post a photo (or two) of your antique? --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com - Original Message From: Aylwen Garden aylwe...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 1:40:28 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] Drafting from antique garment - question Another thought went through my mind - I could develop this pattern to fit modern sizing charts, but it was designed for a different figure that may have had regency stays on! This raises the question, if I'm drafting from an extant garment should I make it for a person wearing a corset? Will this isolate those who don't wear corsets, or encourage them to wear period undergarments? Bye for now, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 413
Hey, a friend of mine wants a copy of some of the coats from sharps rifels, the dvd series. I have not watched the, but I do have them on order from the library, so I will be watching them very soon. However, preparatory to watching, I figured that I would look at what costumers said about this era/this series as I have never done any costuming this modern.Does anyone have a absolute fav pattern or web site for this era? I used Green Hills 1830-50 and was terribly under-impressed. (Dont bother looking, it was discountinued.) Next time I'd draft my own from scratch, but then I've done some formal tailoring. This is not an easy era or project. For Sean Bean's field jacket, you might start with Rocking Horse Farm RH205: Workman's Jacket or Stable Jacket For something more formal, any Regency or Napoleonic men's tailcoat will give you a good start. Instead of using movies for costume research, look at the real deal. There are many around. http://www.nmm.ac.uk/collections/nelson/viewObject.cfm?ID=UNI0024 Lotsa luck do send us pictures, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4 - supportasse
giggle I've put the pictures on the Tudor tailor list already. There will be a how-to along in a bit. T'warnt hard. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Tudor_Tailor_Reader/photos If you're a member, look for the photo album named Cin's gowns or somesuch. The supportasse is the 1st 2 pics in the album. I've since covered the neck edge, but you can still see the wire work and solder lines in these pics. No, I dont think the original was soldiered, I just thought it was easier for a novice wirebender. I also thought the lightweight tie-wires might snag my gown or ruff, so I went with a smoother solution. I've been in love with this supportasse for sometime, ever since a friend brought back the Ghent Museum's costume catalog. When I saw the bigger pics in PoF4, well, Something had to be Done. BTW, I just discovered your Compendium. Lovely stuff and just enough bite-side info for teatime. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Pictures, missy! Pictures at once! MaggiRos On Tue, Nov 11, 2008 at 3:44 PM, Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I just finished making the 1590s copper wire supportasse as shown in the book. I'm the first one on my block to have one. Fun! --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] JA POF 4 - supportasse
I just finished making the 1590s copper wire supportasse as shown in the book. I'm the first one on my block to have one. Fun! --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] scholarly historical costume list
Thanks Beth Robin, I guess those lists are what I was remembering. I'll give it a try. Thanks so much for responding. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] I started these almost a year ago, but the majority of the posts have been mine, so it has been mostly posts of new book notices, journal articles of interest, conferences, etc. Quite a few have joined these lists, but traffic has been slow lately. Members are from the USA, UK, various Scandinavian countries and Germany, but unfortunately none from France, Italy or eastern Europe as yet. and [EMAIL PROTECTED] Posts to this has currently been primarily about the Janet Arnold Conference and travel relating to Florence, Italy. See the Yahoo webpages to find out more. Beth Matney ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] scholarly historical costume list
Oh, there's more? Undoubtedly there are. I'm looking for one that's more prone to scholarly info rather than sewing construction questions and where to buy questions. This list is great for that info. My personal preferences are for Renaissance, Napoleonic, Regency, Victorian high fashions, advanced tailoring, but I'm willing to skip over the parts I'm not interest in. Several lists may end up serving my various areas of interest that's fine, too. Happy to take all suggestions. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Also, does anyone remember the contact info for the more scholarly historical costume list that formed oh maybe a year back? -cin Are you talking about the one where we are discussing the conference about Arnold and other such conferences or a different one? Chiara Francesca ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] All Hallows
I'm another denizen of the spider filled graveyard with the spider queen (see below)... I'll be in a long white wig or the white Jeffersonian wig, bowler hat veilings, ragged hunter green tailcoat with shredded lapels vintage 1900s, repro highwaisted 19th gents slate blue-grey pants, repro silk vest in dark blue silk, vintage 19th c gents shirt w starched bosom cravat. I love being able to just toss on whatever's in the closet! Even better is raiding the spouse's closet! Hope you get lots of candy! --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Re: [h-cost] All Hallows My house is decorated as a spider-filled graveyard so I am dressed as spider graveyard queen. I have a bony crown and an all black outfit which includes short puff sleeve (cartridge pleated) jacket over black canvas Victorian corset over skirt which is below knee a-line in front and floor length knife pleated in back and draped in black gauze swag. Plus spider accessories. Subtract the spider accessories and change the shoes and it looks kinda steampunk. I didn't have to go to work today so I'll be wearing it at home to scare kids and have people over for drinks and scary movies. Kathy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance!
Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today G And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American G Happy Happy happy TA- I got my hands on it and read it last nite. Then I started making the 1590 Dutch rebato. Fun! Also, does anyone remember the contact info for the more scholarly historical costume list that formed oh maybe a year back? -cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose
Nyah, Suzi, you're perfect. --cin Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Slipper and the Rose I am very old, and knew Jean Hunnisett and Charles Alty. Jean was my Tutor at college, and I worked with Charles on a show in London's West End. Suzi ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] die Nurnbergerin was: what is your dressform wearing?
Behalf Of Hanna Zickermann My dressform is still wearing Durer's Nurnbergerin im Hauskleid. I finished it in June for my master craftswoman degree in costuming and still found no place to store the pleated apron. Too lovely. The headwear turned out wonderfully well. Are you going to tell us how you did it? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
It's that time of year: holiday parties, winter balls, theater season, company dinners, Diskens Fair, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something marvelous on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your design sketchbook, worktable, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] CostumeCon 27 chat list
Judy, Would you pass along for me a request for a CC27 chat list. I have no idea who'd be the right person on the committee.It was fun to hear people's plans, a great place to ask local people for advice (like shopping for wierd glues stuff you cant reliably bring on planes) a place to seek out a fashion model or some spare clothes hangers and all manner of useful (and useless) gossip. A chat list doesnt have to be a function of the website. A quick note that says CC27 chat list on googlegroups would be more than adequate. Thanks, Judy. Best regards, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [h-cost] CostumeCon 27 To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Cin wrote: Is there a chat list? um... no. I think CC26 may have been the first time I've heard of a chat list for a CC, usually they just send out progress reports. -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC-27
Yes'm. Looks like my request was filled before I made it. Thanks, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] From: Judy Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi folks, I have passed on all the concerns to the Powers That Be. The website will hopefully get worked over this week, as to a chat list.. is there really interest? I've been given permission to start one up on yahoo if people want it. Will that do? -Judy Mitchell ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] CostumeCon 27
On Sat, Sep 13, 2008 at 11:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Is there a chat list for the upcoming CC27 like there was for CC26? Is there a chat list? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costumes that morph
Some amazing costume renditions in this odd little video. I'm guessing it's a teaser for a stage show. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAFI1i5FIBc The costumes morph as the performer sings. It must have been pretty fun to design. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] history of fashion designers
On Thu, Sep 4, 2008 at 11:00 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I am working on history of fashion designers from the early 20th Century and have a few questions. Paquin: I have that Mme Paquin business was from 1891-1956. Does anyone know her first name? I can't find it in my resources. Also I have come across some French images in 1919 for a Joseph Paquin. Would Joseph be a relative working under Mme Paquin's label or house? Mme Jeanne Paquin the biz was open 1891-1954 according to Fashion. Georges Barbier did a bunch of Paquin illustrations. Lady Duff Gordon: Did she go by several names. I have in 1907 an illustrator and designer named Lucy and in the 1910s Lucille. Could this be Lady Duff Gordon? Close, Lady Duff Gordon's label read Lucile or Lucille. Can anyone suggest a book that would include lesser known designers from pre-1930s? I have a lot of designer images without an information about their business. Kyoto Costume Museum has a lovely publication called Fashion: A History from the 18th to the 20th century with brief bios and usually one representational photo of a signature work. I doubt it's as much info as you want. One page per just isnt very much detail. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Hose lining
I know the book very well. IMHO, you would be better served by using a more modern bit of research. Harmand's book is c1928. It's chief value is the prolific references to all those wonderful illuminations in the BNF and the quotations from Jeanne d'Arc trial. May I suggest you look thru the London excavations books or Fashions in the Age of the Black Prince for the detailed answers to your question? If all you want is a pattern working method, the the Medieval Tailor is more up to date than Jeanne d'Arc and accessible in a language you read. This really isnt my period, so I cant answer your question directly. Best, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Hose lining To: h-costume h-costume@mail.indra.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Hi, I'm solving a little problem, the lining in joined hose in the 15th century in general. Was there any - if yes, how did it look, did it cover the whole hose, how often one could see hose with lining and hose without - and also was there lining in hose in earlier periods? I could only find something in Adrien Harmand's book, but my French is not excellent and I'm not sure whether I understand everything... If there was a thread on this topic, please point me to it by telling me the name of the subject:-) ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 289
Sheridan P wrote: I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's ladies in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for pictures. If fancy dress means costume or maquerade, I dont have any for the 20s. If fancy dress means all dolled up for a night of dancing, I have lots. I collect pics of dancers, you see. Where? Definitely the VA Library of Congress photo archives .. Look for pictures of dancers US Europe (not Asian or you get endless natives in feathers beads). Movie stills - Mary Pickford, Rudolf Valentino, early Fred Astaire Google images -- words involving dances Fashion plate collections Sheet music record collections I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or tiara type headdress. You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks again! :0) Oddly, I have only one out of 100s. From my photos fashion plates the modern concept of the 20s headband seems radically incorrect. The vast majority of fashionable ladies are in cloche hats or unadorned bobbed hair, with or without the Marcel waves. VA 1920 Princess Alice of Albany aka Countess Athlone Let me know if you find some, I'm still hunting, too. I do find lots of headbands starting with Paul Poiret fashion plates in the early teens, on Irene Castle and other dancers. All of these are from pre-WWI photos sheet music. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 1920's headwear (Shane Sheridan Chabot)
(resent with the correct subj line... apologies) Sheridan P wrote: I have been trying to figure out how to search for pictures of 1920's ladies in fancy dress and was wondering if anyone here had a favorite source for pictures. If fancy dress means costume or maquerade, I dont have any for the 20s. If fancy dress means all dolled up for a night of dancing, I have lots. I collect pics of dancers, you see. Where? Definitely the VA Library of Congress photo archives .. Look for pictures of dancers US Europe (not Asian or you get endless natives in feathers beads). Movie stills - Mary Pickford, Rudolf Valentino, early Fred Astaire Google images -- words involving dances Fashion plate collections Sheet music record collections I'm specifically looking for pictures that have women wearing headbands or tiara type headdress. You are all such a great resource for my varied oddball projects, thanks again! :0) Oddly, I have only one out of 100s. From my photos fashion plates the modern concept of the 20s headband seems radically incorrect. The vast majority of fashionable ladies are in cloche hats or unadorned bobbed hair, with or without the Marcel waves. VA 1920 Princess Alice of Albany aka Countess Athlone Let me know if you find some, I'm still hunting, too. I do find lots of headbands starting with Paul Poiret fashion plates in the early teens, on Irene Castle and other dancers. All of these are from pre-WWI photos sheet music. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for Amsterdam museums events
Thank you all, including the ones who replied privately, for all the wonderful ideas. Y'all are a wealth of tasty info! --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Gen Con in Indy (was: Costume College)
Hve fun at College, ladies! Gen Con happens the week after. Is anyone going besides Dawn I? --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [h-cost] Costume College To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 It's next weekend! I know I'm going, also LynnD, Regina, and Kimiko. Anyone else? Maybe we should mark our badges with a big red H, or something. MaggiRos ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fabric use brainstorming
I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful. ... I'm curious how other people on this list use smaller pieces of fabric. I'll admit it, I'm looking to steal ideas. Since most of the fabrics are brocades and damasks, I have a strongly 16th Century inclination. I'd love to see uses in other periods for other fabrics. Emma, I'm a quilter when I'm not a costumer or a miliner. Cotton quilts, wool scrap over the back of the couch quilts, silk crazy quilts... if it's too small for a hat lining. I'm working on quilt #43 now. For some reason, all the linen gets used up. so no linen quilts. Fun question! --cin ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] preserving patterns — paper
I rarely use commercial patterns; usually I would draft them out of a book onto paper. I trace out the pattern on muslin and put any marks that I may need on it. It also saves time in the long run because you won't need to do any pinning when you lay the pattern out on fabric. Both of the above are true for me too. I'm a very lazy costumer for all that I like high-end results. I like to handle fiddle w/ my patts, mockups finished garment as little as possible. Part of this attitude is that I keep all my old mocks drafts notes neatly organized in 2 file cabinets in the garage. They're done on heavily starched muslin and/or butcher paper (comes in big wide rolls that last for years) and/or on the back side of D and E size mechanical drawings done on vellem. It's not real vellem, it's the kind that CAD drafters use goes in a plotter. This stuff will out last me. It's guaranteed 75 years archival quality, and I'm recycling. As for the starched muslin, I can draw on it, snip it to fit, pin it on a person and gather or pleat it, then press it back to flat. It will even drape a little, unlike any paper pattern. I love going to the pattern file cabinet, pulling out something I did a decade ago to use as a starting place. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Patterns - free to good home
An entire grocery sack of vintage patterns (late 1950s to early 1980s) rescued from my elderly neighbor's basement awaits a good home with a loving family. Sounds like I'm trying to give away a kitten, but unlike a kitten these patterns wont eat much, make messes of your yarn or shread your drapes. Take 'em all; they're yours. Speak quickly or they're going to be posted on SanJoseFreeCycle. --cin Cynthia Barnes San Jose, Calif [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Can you help me with this costume?
http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/eGallery/object.asp? searchText=restorationx=12y=13object=74860row=36 A wide lace berthe and matching lace on the sleeves would seem to be a good start to try to get the impression across. Queen Victoria had a Restoration costume done for a Fancy Dress ball c1850. It was on display at the Museum of London recently. You could tell everyone you were a Victorian doing 17th c styles. grin The above writer is correct, a lace collar or bertha would be the big visual clue, as would a wig of bouncy spaniel curls. Have fun at the party, --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Banyan
I am using it in September at the aniversary of Gustavs Sk?l. We are going to be gathered a whole weekend, with breakfast two, and this is where i am going to use it. Bjarne, I just love it when you show off the things you've made for yourself. This one is really charming; the breakfast party is a great reason to have such a unique outfit, too. --cin Cynthia Barnes [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
