Re: [h-cost] Period Hair, and Accessories

2013-07-31 Thread Jean Waddie
Me too - I often feel you can get away with a fairly generic dress, 
especially for my period of early medieval, but if you get the headdress 
right it really pins it to a particular date.


Jean

On 31/07/2013 19:34, Simone Bryan wrote:

Yes one of my pet peeves is hair coverings, it is like a last thought but
it really is essential to get the proper look. Then there are the correct
or as close as you can get accessories that gives another note to the
whole.  I cosider an outfit like a good perfume, it has lots of notes as to
bring forth a worthy scent.  So the entire look does not stop at the gown
and underpinnings, although they are a good or great base.


Cilean
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Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber

2013-04-02 Thread Jean Waddie
But it's still ultimately made from hydrocarbons - as are most synthetic 
fabrics.  Polyester may have gone away for a while, but viscose, lycra, 
polyamide, microfibre haven't.


As for things derived from petroleum not belonging on your skin - 
Vaseline?  Everything is either animal, vegetable or mineral, and if 
it's mineral, it's probably derived from oil.  It's just a source of big 
molecules, once they're chopped up and recombined they don't necessarily 
have any properties in common with petrol.


Jean

On 02/04/2013 03:29, Monica Spence wrote:

FWIW--Polyester now is an ecofriendly fabric. It is made of recycled soda
and water bottles.


Monica E. Spence, MA, MA, BA, PhD/ in progress
Senior Lead Instructor
Fashion Studies Department
Liberal Arts and Sciences Department
The Art Institute of New York City
11-17 Beach Street
New York, NY 10013



-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Sybella
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2013 10:16 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Polyester is the great new fiber

Ahh, darn it!! Polyester?? No

When I'm shopping for clothing, I look long and hard for natural fibers.
Synthetics make my hair stand on end, and as a wavy, I battle unruly curls
all the time. I really do not need static making it more difficult for me.

Plus, I find it quite bothersome that, according to that article, polyester
is a petroleum by-product. I haven't done my research (I avoid polyester
anyway) but if it is fossil derived, it is not a renewable resource. Hasn't
there been complaints since the 1980s that fossil sources are nearly
depleted?? In my opinion, anything that comes from the same source as
gasoline doesn't belong on our skin. (Does anyone really like polyester??
LOL!)

That said, I'm incredibly disappointed and grossed out that polyester has
made a come back. :(

'Bella


On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 4:46 PM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote:


Polyester. Ick. But it's grown up in the world since the bulletproof
variety, and SOME things in poly are actually decent feeling.

  == Marjorie Wilser

 =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=
http://3toad.blogspot.com/
Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement.
--MW



On Mar 31, 2013, at 2:29 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote:

  My new-old Easter dress is polyester (a thrift store purchase), and I

have to say, I'm glad the pleats in the skirt could be permanently set.


Ann Wass



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Re: [h-cost] Terms for pants

2013-03-20 Thread Jean Waddie
Ah, I remember my New Romantic days, those wonderful black velvet 
knickerbockers and frilly white blouse!  But in the UK, certainly 
modernly, it's always knickerbockers.  Knickers are female underwear, 
only.  The idea of (male) baseball players routinely wearing knickers is 
hilarious!


Jean

On 20/03/2013 21:11, Sybella wrote:

Yes, I did mean the 1980s and capri is another one, Cynthia!  And Carol
may be right, where my memories blended '70s with the '80s...but I do
distinctly remember asking Mom to take me shopping for a pair of knickers,
pants that came to a gather just below the knee, during my childhood.
Honestly, it's something I'd rather not admit to so I'll trust you all to
keep it a secret! ;)

Like I said, every time they come back into fashion, there's a new name for
the same recycled style! LOL!

'Bella


On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 1:06 PM, aqua...@patriot.net wrote:


There was a short fad for knickers in the mid to late 1970s for women.
Gauchos were another one, loose pants that ended below the knee - sort of
like a split skirt.
For both, you might wear them with a blouse and matching vest.

Culottes were a skirt/shorts combo, just above the knee. They might have a
wide leg or a separate panel for the skirt effect. Sporty, I remember my
mom wearing them for golfing.

Capri pants are high ankle or low calf length, and are currently
fashionable, and were various times back as far as the 1950s. I think of
Audrey Hepburn in them.

Pedal pushers were long-ish shorts, I think just below the knee? But a
regular pants width, not flared and not gathered. I remember them from the
1960s, but could be earlier.

-Carol



On Wed, Mar 20, 2013 at 12:16 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote:

In the '80s people called pants that ended just below the knee
knickers.

Assuming you mean 1980s: I recall Capri pants for women,not knickers.


Before that, they were peddle pushers. And I think there's at least
one
other name for them. Knee highs, maybe?  It seems every time they come
back into fashion, they are called something else.

Probably, pedal-pushers as that what my mom called the things they
went bicycling in in the 1950s.

Also, Knickers strikes me as something an early 20th c golfer or
upperclass sport hunter (male) might wear.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com

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Re: [h-cost] Meaning of breeches in late 16th to mid-17th c. English

2012-07-21 Thread Jean Waddie
Also (sorry, I don't know where you are from, mundanely) don't be 
confused by the modern terms - pants are an outer garment in US 
English, but underwear only in UK English.


Jean

On 21/07/2012 03:20, albert...@aol.com wrote:

Breeches is an English term. Like culotte is the French term (sans culottes were French revolutionaries who wore 
pantalon). And even Jodhpurs were those riding pants with wide hips (now, just riding pants) worn traditionally in 
duh Jodhpur, India. for riding. So I'd say when a 16th century English writer talks about breeches... he really just means 
whatever pants local people wear. But saying men in Persia wear no breeches implies they don't wear tight, knee-length pants. I don't think he would 
consider full persian pants to be breeches.



-Original Message-
From: Data-Samtak Susan pasov...@aol.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Sent: Fri, Jul 20, 2012 3:39 pm
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Meaning of breeches in late 16th to mid-17th c. English


In the 21st Century, horseback riding pants are still called breeches,
especially the ones that are a few inches shorter and end above the ankle to be
worn inside tall slim boots aka riding boots.

The longer version that cover the ankle , usually with a cuff, (so not suited
for tucking into tall slim boots comfortably) are sometimes still referred to as
jodphurs.

Of curse the Western Wear pants are called Jeans, usually made of denim, but not
exclusively, which can be tucked into the shorter height Western Boot, or left
covering the boot tops.

Susan




On Jul 20, 12, at 2:41 PM, Jill wrote:


Breeches were and still are outer wear.   In Persia the men would have, as

some still do today,  wear long robes and any trousers (of any desciption) worn
would not be immediately apparent.   Don't take the description written in 16th
and 17th centuries to be valid in modern language.  For example - for someone to
be seen naked in the 17th century didn't mean to be bare and without clothing,
it meant to be seen in your underwear (which was a big no no).

Jill


At 19:27 20/07/2012, you wrote:

I'm trying to determine what the word breeches meant - did it mean

underpants only, or did it have other meanings, for example, knee-length or
shorter trousers - from the late 16th through mid-17th centuries.

I ask because visitors to Persia commented that the men wore no breeches and

i'm trying to determine the implications.

I have seen knee-length trousers called breeches in parts of 16th c. Europe

- garments that could be outer wear. As certain details of European clothing are
outside my expertise, i am asking the collective wisdom here.

Thank you.

Urtatim al-Qurtubiyya
SCA
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Growing old is inevitable but growing up is optional
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Re: [h-cost] Liberty of London lawn

2012-02-16 Thread Jean Waddie
My mother has summer blouses made of Liberty's lawn, whenever she can 
get it.  They get bundled in the washing machine along with everything 
else and are absolutely fine.


Jean

On 16/02/2012 13:37, Lauren Walker wrote:

Hi, all,
Has anyone machine washed and/or dried Liberty of London cotton lawn? What was 
your result?

Unnecessary explanation:
I have some Liberty of London cotton lawn that I want to use for historical 
costume on 1:12 (dollhouse) scale dolls.
When I buy fabric to costume humans and other mammals I *always* wash it first, 
because mammalian activity is such that inevitably one will wish to wash the 
costume someday. I am overjoyed that my 18th-century-style worsted gown was 
washable after I spilled a kettle of fish chowder on it.
But dolls? Dolls mainly just get dusty.
The LoL lawn is labeled hand wash or dry clean. So, yes, that is what I 
*should* do.
But I really want to throw it in the machine once before I commit to cutting it 
out, so that, should the dolls later wander into some fish chowder, the 
disaster could be mitigated.
I also hate what dry cleaning does to fabric anyway.

So I'm having trouble talking myself out of a preliminary machine wash. I'm 
okay with line drying.

Thoughts?
Thank you,
Lauren

Lauren M. Walker
lauren.wal...@comcast.net




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Re: [h-cost] Not tying your bonnet strings?

2011-11-21 Thread Jean Waddie

On 21/11/2011 10:08, Kate Bunting wrote:

Linda wrote:


Thank you, Elizabeth W. and Sharon C. - I never realised that wearing a
hat could have so many implications!  I wonder if the idea is modern of
doing honour to the occasion by wearing a hat, which seems to be
coming back into custom and not just fashion.
When I wore a hat as part of my school uniform, ( yes, a very long time
ago), I would have been grateful for ribbons.  In Summer terms, I must
have covered many miles with one hand holding it on my head; Autumn and
Spring terms were not so bad, since our school Winter coats had an
especially wide hood to cover the hat, and that tied with a gathering
string.  Thinking back, we must have looked very sweet . . .
There were certainly rules about never being seen out of doors without
your hat - nor your gloves, (brown leather for Winter, white cotton for
Summer).  Was there some ettiquette behind glove-wearing too?


As you say in your 3rd paragraph, I think before the mid-20th century everyone 
routinely wore a hat out of doors, even if they only had a very shabby one.

We used to sew elastic to our school panama hats. Our winter hats were knitted 
caps, so keeping them on wasn't a problem.


Kate Bunting
Librarian  17th century reenactor


Have you seen the old film of girls coming out of a mill, with shawls 
over their heads - it was ages before I realised that they were the ones 
who couldn't afford hats - everyone had either a shawl or a hat to cover 
their heads.


Jean
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Re: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles

2011-10-20 Thread Jean Waddie
I do something very similar to this, but I start by clipping the top 
section back, quite high, with a big decorative slide or barrette.  Then 
I plait the three sections, and wind them round the round the slide in 
the same way, but more on the back than the top of my head.  It looks 
like you've got an immensely long plait just held up by the slide!


Jean

On 20/10/2011 17:41, Natalie wrote:

Something I do from time to time, inspired by the Rapunzel site:

Take the top half of my hair and twist it into a rope as if I were 
going to do a bun. But instead of putting all the hair in one tight 
knot, I wrap it around in a gradually bigger spiral on top of my head. 
Pin like crazy with all the pins pointing toward the center and tuck 
the end under. Take the bottom half and split it into half vertically. 
Twist and wrap it up and around the spiral, increasing the size of the 
original. Keep pinning like mad. Finally, take the last section, 
twist, and wrap in the same direction as the second hank of hair. Keep 
pinning and tucking under the end. I use about 25-30 pins for this. 
Mine is mid-back length, coarse and curly. You may need more or less 
depending on your hair type and length. I get compliments on this 
about how amazing, pretty, complicated, and old-fashioned it looks 
every time I do it.


Natalie


On 10/20/2011 10:59 AM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

Wow, that's an amazing site!

Too bad most of them are really too complicated to do in the 
morning... I'll

really have to get dressed quickly... I'll be sure to steal some of her
tricks though :-)

Thank you!

On Wed, Oct 19, 2011 at 4:04 PM, Sharon 
Colliersha...@collierfam.comwrote:



Try here:

http://rapunzelsresource.wordpress.com/style-index/


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com 
[mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On

Behalf Of Audrey Bergeron-Morin
Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2011 12:54 PM
To: Liste Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles

Good afternoon,

I'm putting the finishing touches on my Halloween costume - actually, a
dress from various Truly Victorian patterns.

I need ideas about what to do with my hair. It's long and very 
straight.


I need something easy that I can do relatively quickly in the 
morning. It
doesn't need to be historical, I'm already planning on makeup that 
won't be
historical, but I'd still like something that keeps in with the 
style of

the
period.

Any ideas? References? Pictures? Techniques? I'm all ears...

Thank you!

Audrey

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Re: [h-cost] Miss Universe 2011 national costumes

2011-09-13 Thread Jean Waddie
These are brilliant!  Miss Belgium looks very... Belgian.  A bit dull.  
Miss GB - no idea!


JEan


On 12/09/2011 20:54, Cin wrote:

Check out the ridiculous national costumes from this year's Miss
Universe pagent: http://ohnotheydidnt.livejournal.com/62603630.html
There are other websites with a small selection of pics, but this LJ
entry has lots  lots.  Its possible that you'll need an LJ handle to
see them all.

If you'd rather had just a small set that's not on LJ, here's the
Telegraph's gallery.
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/picturegalleries/worldnews/8749932/Miss-Universe-2011-national-costumes.html
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] Monster pannier.

2011-07-26 Thread Jean Waddie
I always love these huge panniers.  I think they look like sofas - space 
for a chap to perch on either side!


Jean

On 26/07/2011 14:02, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote:

I dont remember before i left h-costume last, if i told you my plans for making a 
court dress from 1750ies? I have baught 20 yards of a wonderfull BrunswickFils 
floral silk brokade i want to use for this projekt.
Today while i was sitting and sewing on a pannier for a karnival dress, i 
desided to go to a copy shop here in Copenhagen who has large machines that can 
blow up patterns.
I want to make the pannier worn with Louise Ulrika of Swedens coronation dress. 
Her pannier is 2 meters wide, but she was a small lady we must remember. I used 
the center front from waist to ground to calculate the new size its a lady who 
is 1 m. 20 cm. from waist to ground. I showed the man in the shop the point i 
wanted to use as blowup, told him i wanted the center front foldline to be 1m. 
10 cm.
Now i am home and i have off cause tryed to meassure and its going to be about 
2 meters wide at waist level, and (my god) 6 m. 80 cm. in cirkumference at the 
foot bone.
I have ben curious about the size for a long time, but i had not dreamed it 
would be that monster big. I have fabric for it, and its going to be a future 
projekt, i hope perhaps next year.

Bjarne
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Re: [h-cost] Domestic Sewing Machine Disaster Ads

2011-06-25 Thread Jean Waddie
Interesting because I believe a sewing machine was considered a key item 
with which to start from scratch and be able to support yourself.  There 
is a tale in my family that one of my mother's great-aunts went from 
Scotland to Chicago in the late 20's, just in time for the Depression, 
came back with nothing and the family clubbed together to buy her a 
sewing machine so she could earn some money to keep herself.


Jean

On 25/06/2011 00:33, Lynn Downward wrote:

Yes. It says so on the third link where you see both sides of the postcard
that the machine is insured against all these events.

On Fri, Jun 24, 2011 at 4:22 PM, Lavolta Pressf...@lavoltapress.comwrote:


Can anyone tell me why the Domestic Sewing Machine Company postcardss
featuring pictures of major natural disasters?  Was the idea that in the
event of floods, cyclones, etc., your sewing machine would still be present
and intact?

See:

http://cgi.ebay.com/FREE-**SEWING-MACHINE-TORNADO-**
CYCLONE-OMAHA-NEBR-POSTCARD-/**160539991871?pt=LH_**DefaultDomain_0hash=*
*item2560eddf3fhttp://cgi.ebay.com/FREE-SEWING-MACHINE-TORNADO-CYCLONE-OMAHA-NEBR-POSTCARD-/160539991871?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item2560eddf3f

http://cgi.ebay.com/Free-**Sewing-machine-insured-**
Memphis-Flood-Trade-Card-/**160607705199?pt=UK_**
Collectables_Postcards_MJ**hash=item2564f7186fhttp://cgi.ebay.com/Free-Sewing-machine-insured-Memphis-Flood-Trade-Card-/160607705199?pt=UK_Collectables_Postcards_MJhash=item2564f7186f

http://cgi.ebay.com/OH-DAYTON-**Flood-Fire-Free-Sewing-**
Machine-AD-UN-R805-/**110694324371?pt=LH_**DefaultDomain_0hash=**
item19c5e55893http://cgi.ebay.com/OH-DAYTON-Flood-Fire-Free-Sewing-Machine-AD-UN-R805-/110694324371?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item19c5e55893

Fran
Lavolta Press
Two new books of 1880s patterns!
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress


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Re: [h-cost] one of a kind wedding dress

2011-06-17 Thread Jean Waddie
Haven't heard of that one specifically, but dresses made from parachute 
silk generally, certainly, in Britain.  Fabric was rationed, so there 
were all sorts of ways of getting enough for a wedding dress, if you had 
time to prepare (many weddings were on-the-spot when the groom managed 
to get a day's leave).  I have a feeling many of the British ones were 
made from German parachutes though, when enemy planes were shot down.


Jean

On 17/06/2011 18:25, m...@aol.com wrote:

Has anyone heard of this wedding dress?

_http://historyisclassic.blogspot.com/2011/06/one-of-kind-wedding.html?spref
=fb_
(http://historyisclassic.blogspot.com/2011/06/one-of-kind-wedding.html?spref=fb)

Kelly  Albrecht, ncc,  amft
m...@aol.com
www.mysensaria.com/time2spa
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Re: [h-cost] The Many Hats of HRH Princess Beatrice

2011-05-04 Thread Jean Waddie
I quite like the one from Trooping the Colour.  I'm not sure that BE 
will be invited to Zara's wedding in the summer, but if they were I can 
imagine her insisting on vetting the hats beforehand!


Jean

On 04/05/2011 09:45, Sharon Collier wrote:

She might if she actually wore them on her head instead of her forehead. How
do they stay on, anyway? Double stick tape? Velcro? Sub-cutaneous magnets?
Glue?


-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of penn...@costumegallery.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 1:00 AM
To: h-costume
Subject: [h-cost] The Many Hats of HRH Princess Beatrice

I think she doesn't have the style for hats at all.I only saw two hats here
that were becoming to her:

http://tinyurl.com/3l4crbc



Penny Ladnier, owner

The Costume Gallery Websites

  http://www.costumegallery.com/  www.costumegallery.com

15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history

FaceBook:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/107498415961579



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Re: [h-cost] least favorite hat

2011-05-03 Thread Jean Waddie
Where did the last 40 minutes go?  Oops!  That's going to join my 
favourites :-)



On 03/05/2011 15:57, Marjorie Wilser wrote:

Gosh that was fun! Thanks for the link!

== Marjorie Wilser

=:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:=

Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW

http://3toad.blogspot.com/




On May 3, 2011, at 6:00 AM, Rachel Sohn wrote:


Thinking of starting a Bad Hat Society...
Kathleen



You're too late: http://madhattery.royalroundup.com/  :)

(Ok, not strictly *bad* hats)
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Re: [h-cost] Silly books (was: pouting about R. Wedding coverage)

2011-05-01 Thread Jean Waddie
Yes indeed - the author is Gail Carriger.  Steampunk, vampires and 
werewolves, detective-comedy-action-romance, and the social commentary 
of an intelligent woman whose female acquaintances think of nothing but 
bonnet trimmings and the militia :-)



On 01/05/2011 12:11, Genie wrote:

Oh, you're talking about the Stempunk/romance series, Soulless I think.

The main female character's best friend.


-Original Message-

From: Elena Houseexst...@gmail.com
Sent: May 1, 2011 12:57 AM
To: Historical Costumeh-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Silly books (was: pouting about R. Wedding coverage)

I love very silly books featuring hideous Victorian hats.  Who's the
author and what's the series?

-E House

On Fri, Apr 29, 2011 at 6:42 PM, Jean Waddie
anne.montgome...@googlemail.com  wrote:

Re hats:  I'm reading a series of (very silly) books at the moment, set in
Victorian London, where the heroine's best friend is noted for her utterly
hideous taste in hats.  Perhaps the writer has been watching certain younger
royals?

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Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage

2011-04-29 Thread Jean Waddie
I thought the trees were brilliant.  How do you get enough flowers to 
look significant in a huge Abbey? - just get trees instead!


On 29/04/2011 19:08, Sharon Collier wrote:

My daughter theorizes that Kate had always wanted an outdoor wedding and
this was the compromise. I liked it. It made it magical. Tied the stone
trees (pillars) into Nature.
Sharon C.

-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Cin
Sent: Friday, April 29, 2011 10:38 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage

So wierd they brought trees into Westminster!  They werent there when I
was in that church earlier this month.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
cinbar...@gmail.com
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Re: [h-cost] pouting about R. Wedding coverage

2011-04-29 Thread Jean Waddie
Don't know about all of them but at least one is going to be planted at 
Highgrove (the Prince of Wales' home, since they don't have a permanent 
home of their own yet) as a permanent memento of the wedding.


Re hats:  I'm reading a series of (very silly) books at the moment, set 
in Victorian London, where the heroine's best friend is noted for her 
utterly hideous taste in hats.  Perhaps the writer has been watching 
certain younger royals?  Someone really needs to tell them how dreadful 
they look!


Jean

On 29/04/2011 21:07, Margo Anderson wrote:


On Apr 29, 2011, at 11:20 AM, Jean Waddie wrote:

I thought the trees were brilliant.  How do you get enough flowers to 
look significant in a huge Abbey? - just get trees instead!


And the trees can be planted out somewhere, hopefully in a park or 
other public place.


Margo
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Re: [h-cost] Looking for more information on a portrait of Henry VIII

2011-03-12 Thread Jean Waddie
I couldn't remember the details of the original so I had a quick google 
and found it on this page 
http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/henry8face3.htm - unknown artist, 
copyright Christie's images.


It is definitely less decorated than most versions (there are LOTS of 
copies of this portrait!) and the doublet seems a different shape - 
there's no belt or shaping at the waist, in fact it's really unclear 
what happens below his hands, and the big double edging up the front 
looks a bit odd.  It makes me wonder if this is actually a late copy by 
someone who didn't really understand the clothing of the time?  And 
compared to all the others, that silk looks more rich merchant than 
kingly, to my eye.  But you could always take that as inspiration, and 
use the other versions for the shape.


Jean


On 11/03/2011 02:06, Elizabeth Walpole wrote:

Hi everyone,

I was looking at portraits of Henry VIII today and found this portrait I
hadn't seen before
http://www.flickr.com/photos/60861613@N00/3711035063/sizes/o/in/set-72157617185980487/
It looks to be a copy of the famous Holbein portrait but with very little
decoration (as my embroidery skills are not up to much it seems much more
feasible)
So, my question is does anybody know of a larger version of this image or
more details (e.g. artist or collection) so I can narrow my search.

Thanks
Elizabeth



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Re: [h-cost] cleaning up a wool gown

2009-10-15 Thread Jean Waddie
Vacuum?  Last night I was vaccuuming sawdust off a microfleece jumper (why
can't he find his work shirt before he starts sawing?!) with the stiff brush
intended for car interiors.  It worked better than I expected - washing
doesn't shift it at all.

Jean


On 15/10/2009, Alexandria Doyle garbaho...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have a wool gown that I need to clean-up/freshen up for wear this
 weekend.  The last outing with this black wool 15th century kirtle was
 at a dusty/windy camp ground.  The skirt is covered with dried grass
 and such.  What is the quickest way to get all this grass and debris
 off the skirt?  I keep thinking brushing is the term I've heard used,
 but never done so.  I've always used tape on wool skirts to remove pet
 hair (my usual clingy debris).  Is there a particular type of brush I
 should use?  Stick with the tape?

 Of course I've procrastinated until the last minute and it has to be
 done tonight with a jillion other things to be ready for the event
 tomorrow morning, so any shortcuts are welcome!

 thanks
 alex

 --
 So much to do and so little attention span to get it done with…
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Re: [h-cost] 17c jacket sewing advice

2009-10-05 Thread Jean Waddie
Dear Kate,

The best advice is, don't expect them to fit neatly, they never did!  The
pictures I've seen of extant garments with triangular gores, the top of  the
triangle tends to be flattened or rounded off.

My technique is to sew the top couple of inches first, with the rest of the
gore loose, and then when you've got the point in you can do the rest of the
seams.  Pin one side, stitch that bit up to the point, then wrangle it
around and pin the other side and stitch back down.

Jean


On 05/10/2009, Kate Bunting k.m.bunt...@derby.ac.uk wrote:

 Dear list,

 I have at last started on a long-planned project to make myself a
 17th-century jacket (for when I need extra warmth). I'm using a pattern from
 The cut of women's clothes that has triangular gussets in the skirts. Now,
 as a not-very-competent needlewoman, I'm finding it difficult to get the
 points of the gussets to fit neatly. I'm only working with the lining
 material as yet, and have only tacked the pieces together. Can anyone offer
 any advice before I start sewing properly?

 With thanks,

 Kate Bunting
 Librarian  17th century reenactor


 
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Re: [h-cost] 15th century hose - codpiece

2009-04-21 Thread Jean Waddie
I'm not quite sure what you mean, but I think the answer is that the
codpiece overlaps the front of the hose pieces, it doesn't fit edge to
edge.  The hose may meet or not, the codpiece just covers if they don't
meet.

Can you tell me what the badge is that the gentleman in the hose is wearing?

Jean


On 21/04/2009, Zuzana Kraemerova zkraemer...@yahoo.com wrote:


 Thank you for your suggestions - I also thought the opening must be way
 lower than the regular fly. I also examined carefully the sketch of the
 codpiece in pattern cutting for men's costume (great book, by the way) and I
 found the triangle is inserted just at the point the inner seam and crotch
 seam meet and is sewn between the legs - some inches after that it goes into
 the codpiece and opening or attachment of the codpiece is really 1-2 inches
 lower than the modern fly.

 This arose another question - the triangle that's to be inserted between
 the legs actually adds more room. There can be more room between the legs
 for movement, but not extra room in the lower part of the front section - it
 would make the hose too loose at the hips. Am I right to cut off a bit of
 the front part to accomodate this? It would cause a small gap (equal the
 width of the triangle) in the front seam, but that's - I think - right. It
 will be covered by the codpiece anyway - the vidible gap part will be just
 about 2 above the codpiece:
 http://www.brodec.org/malesov_2007/slides/P1030813.html
 (The hose is really terrible, but I put it here just to show what I mean
 with the gap)
 The only thing that confuses me is that neither Thursfield nor E.Friendship
 suggest cutting off the front part because of the inserted triangle.

 What do you think?

 Zuzana




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Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards

2008-04-14 Thread Jean Waddie
Margo Anderson wrote:
 On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:52 PM, Paula Praxis wrote:

   
 This a discussion that benefits all era of costume.  Agreed that  
 not all on this list work in theater but many of us do and to hear  
 from others about your experiences is great. I agree the modern  
 period is the most difficult to design for. I much  prefer period  
 plays.  however there are some times that are more difficult than  
 others.  I designed a play set in ancient Egypt.  I love archeology  
 and am aware that slaves in the real' ancient Egypt worked naked -  
 this didn't go over too well with my director - so I let her have  
 her way and designed slave costumes for the ensemble.
 

 I'm helping with costumes for my 6th grader's class play,  which is  
 set in Minoan era Crete.  Not surprisingly,  the teacher doesn't want  
 historically accurate costumes.  We're putting them in chitons. :)

 Margo
   
I went to a costume party as Ariadne when I was about 15 - my friends
and I were all studying classics and reading Mary Renault... I did my
best to do the skirt and a high, pointy belt (a bit Wonder Woman,
really!) with a lined but gauzy bodice.  It kind of gave the idea
without giving anything away.

When we visited Plimoth Plantation, I spoke to one of the Native
American interpreters about how what she was wearing, as modern
traditional costume, compared with what her predecessors would have
worn in period.  Her response was along the lines of I'm way
overdressed.  Just another example of modern sensibilities getting in
the way of accuracy - tut tut! ;-)

Jean


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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-12 Thread Jean Waddie
Chris Laning wrote:
 These experiences suggest that both designers and directors would be  
 happier in the end if, whatever the expectations are, they were  
 *written down* and agreed on ahead of time.
I absolutely agree.  My husband and a group of friends build sets for 
amateur theatre, so I've been reading this thread from the other side, 
as it were.  Having had less and less time to build bigger and bigger 
sets in recent years, the latest show was an absolute monster - two 
structures, 20 ft high, 20ft wide and 8ft deep(just to have space for 
enough buttressing), which the director originally wanted to move in 
sight during scenes!   They  built it,  securely enough that the  
theatre's resident stage manager  allowed them to use it and move it, 
which was in question until the technical rehearsal, but only with the 
curtains closed and all cast off stage - but they have now  written down 
conditions making clear that they can only do so much if just presented 
with plans at 6 weeks notice, and how much better it could be if they 
were involved in discussions about design and movement requirements at 
an early stage.  Clearly understood expectations are always where it's at!

Jean

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Re: [h-cost] OT Re: Regional accents, was Making history hip

2008-04-12 Thread Jean Waddie
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  
 In a message dated 4/4/2008 8:30:29 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Someone  recently told me that it was a sign of refinement/education to be be
 to  spell a word in different ways. Anyone ever hear of this?  



 
  
 Not your, you're and yore. Or two, to and too.
  
 I suppose it might seem cosmopolitan to know color is colour in Britain  
 or that you can shop at a shoppe... but it's really just having a good vocab. 
  
 English has like 3 times more words in it than other languages... stolen from 
  other languages... which is why we have so many different spellings and  
 homonyms.
   
There's a quote from Mark Twain, I don't give a damn for a man that can 
only spell a word one way.  Maybe that's what they were thinking of?  
Rather out of date now that standardised spelling is the  norm.

Jean

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Re: [h-cost] Subject: Re: [ h-cost]Making history hip

2008-04-02 Thread Jean Waddie
Andrew Trembley wrote:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
  
 Nah - the bad one is the number of people from soruthern England who've  
 though I was Scottish.
  
 I'm not, I'm from near Newcastle in the North East.   *rolling  eyes*
 


 But if you're from another planet, why do you sound like you're from 
 the North?

 Lots of planets have a north!

 (Sorry, I had to...)

 andy
   

 Yeees - that's North East England, Debs!  But then, if you came from North 
 East Scotland, even I wouldn't be able to understand you.
Jean
(from south east England, now living in south east Scotland)
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Re: [h-cost] [ h-cost]Making history hip

2008-04-01 Thread Jean Waddie
I went and checked with my husband about the original books, I assume 
that's what the writer was referring to.  But it would be worrying if 
people then listened to Sean Bean's accent and thought Ah, that's what 
Cockney is!

Jean


Kate M Bunting wrote:
   Trust an American not to know the difference between Yorkshire and 
 Cockney accents! I believe Bernard Cornwell originally created Sharpe as a 
 Londoner, but Sean Bean comes from Sheffield.


 Saragrace wrote:

 I know this may start a firestorm, but I saw this and was wondering why it 
 had taken so long for the media to pick up on this.  Of course I know there 
 are lots of opinions on how accurate any of it is with respect to costume, 
 but I think it is kind of cool how the emphasis on making history more 
 accessible through documentary, TV series and movies is making the sport of 
 costuming so much more popular. 
  
 http://tv.msn.com/tv/hiphistory?GT1=ENTERTAINMENT5 
  
 Sg



 Kate Bunting
 Cataloguing  Data Quality Librarian
 University of Derby

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Re: [h-cost] early Tudor/medieval Fashion or Not?

2008-03-29 Thread Jean Waddie
Oh dear, humour crossing past each other and failing to meet!  I meant 
the girl in the St Nicholas painting - I'm assuming they are the three 
poor girls who
couldn't marry because they had no dowries, so St Nicholas threw three 
purses of money through their window one night (or something like that) 
to help them.
Still just a frivolous suggestion.  But the quote from the Venetian 
ambassador is interesting, and would explain Mary Tudor's lady in waiting. 

Jean


Kimiko Small wrote:
 You would wonder, except she's got enough jewels on
 her to buy a longer gown; so she must not be that
 poor. But then, it is a Saint. It may represent
 something I don't understand about her story or why
 she and 11,000 virgins were all killed by the Huns
 (maybe they dressed provocatively with these
 demi-skirted gowns.)
 {I am trying to be funny, and it is failing badly -
 sorry}

 Kimiko


 --- Jean Waddie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 snip
   
 apron is lying flat).  I'm intrigued, if this is
 allegorical or an 
 artistic convention,
 why did artists want to show shorter skirts like
 that?  Is it just that 
 she's so poor, she's grown out of her gown ;-) ?

 Jean
 



   
 
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-20 Thread Jean Waddie
As far as I know, it's not intended as a way of keeping your skirt out 
of the mud.  But on the other hand, it's not a permanent, sewn 
arrangement, it's definitely something done with cords that you can 
either loop up or let down.  It would be nice if there was any evidence 
of someone wearing the same dress different ways on different occasions 
- like you sometimes get diaries or accounts showing that sleeves could 
be interchangeable in Tudor times.  I don't know that much detail of the 
period.


Jean


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
Jean, these aren't tied up per se with the intention of letting them down to train are they?  
Sg




  

Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 21:34:47 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 
Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before? CC:   This is similar to one method of making 
the Polonaise, in the 18th century: 
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/ho_1976.146a,b_1970.87.htm  
Jean___


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Re: [h-cost] Anyone seen this in history before?

2008-03-19 Thread Jean Waddie

This is similar to one method of making the Polonaise, in the 18th
century:   http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/orie/ho_1976.146a,b_1970.87.htm

Jean


Saragrace Knauf wrote:
I was browsing through my Pyramid Collection Catalog and came across this skirt and thought it was a great idea.  I think I had seen a variation on this a few months ago in Brugges, Belgium (a woman riding a bicycle), but this is the first time I've seen it in a catalogue.  
 
http://www.pyramidcollection.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=P8276+S
 
Has anyone ever come across this look in any period in history?  The flouncy mode reminds me of some southern belle look, but those are probably permanently sewn in.
 
Great idea for keeping your skirts out of the dirt!  I know I plan on using it for my less than historically accurate stuff with the SCA.

Sg
 
As one of my favorite historians said:
 
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Re: [h-cost] Armor question

2008-03-18 Thread Jean Waddie

Robin Netherton wrote:
This question relates to a costume issue I'm working on, but it's out 
of my own field.


I am working with a document from England, c. 1400, that describes a 
brooch, worn on the chest, as being as wide as the boss of a buckler. 
There is no additional detail. I need to know what that would mean to 
the medieval reader.


So: What is the typical diameter of a buckler boss (meaning the round 
metal stud-like thing in the middle of a small round shield) from c. 
1400 England? I have no idea if any artifacts exist, but I know that 
shields with central bosses are evident in artwork. Rather than just 
look at illuminations and guess, though, I would feel better 
consulting people who work in armor of this period and have a broader 
sense of the available evidence.


Bonus points if I can get a citation -- to either a written work 
(period document or a modern study), an extant artifact, or an expert 
who has studied these well enough to be considered an authority (e.g. 
not just this is what works for me when I make them or my Laurel 
says...).


If anyone here has a contact with an armor expert, or is on a list or 
board that includes armor researchers with a strong grounding on 
period evidence, I would greatly appreciate your forwarding this query 
along. I will gladly take answers either by private e-mail or to this 
list.


Thanks,

Robin

I'd second all the answers you've had - ask on LivingHistory, look at 
the Fechtbuch and other fighting manuals.  The key thing is that a 
buckler is more like a piece of armour for the hand than a body-covering 
shield, the idea is that you move it around and block (and sometimes 
punch) with it.  The boss is the domed part that covers your knuckles, 
so fist-sized is the general idea.


Jean

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Re: [h-cost] Money weights in accounts

2008-02-19 Thread Jean Waddie

Cin wrote:

At 01:43 19/02/2008, you wrote:


the foreparte of the George of Dyamountes the Mayle
of the curates and Rivet of the same of Siluer half
gilte with a sworde in his hand of gold a lozenged
Dyamounte like a sheelde and a Dragon of gold weying
together iij oz di di quarter

a little George of gold to hang at a Collar of
garters weying one ounce quarter di

Thanks for any help with this.

Kimiko


snip

And BTW, Kimiko, that's one big diamond  George jewel that you've got
described there.  The three oz of gold alone makes a pricey bauble at
today's rates.
--cin
Cynthia Barnes

  
I think you'll find it's regalia of the Order of the Garter! So price 
was unlikely to be a concern to the wearer.  See this site:  
http://www.royal.gov.uk/OutPut/Page3210.asp  - section below the fourth 
picture.


Jean


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Re: [h-cost] Re: Viking Women's Dress - New Discoveries

2008-02-12 Thread Jean Waddie
My first reaction is - that looks chilly! Why would you use all that 
fabric to keep your bum warm and not your torso? It looks more 
convincing with the shawl, but as Hanna said, the Valkyrie figure seems 
to have something apron-like in front.


My husband has also commented that there is evidence that ordinary women 
wore tortoise brooches, not just the idle rich, and a train is not very 
practical when you're working.


Anyone read enough Swedish to tell us if the University press release 
gives any more information?


Jean


Beth and Bob Matney wrote:
There has been a bit of discussion about this on the Norsefolk_2 list. 
Here is an image of her reconstruction:


see bottom of http://www.uu.se/press/pm.php?id=48
http://www.newsdesk.se/pressroom/uu/image/view/pm_vikingakvinna1-5825

Beth

At 01:01 PM 2/12/2008, you wrote:

Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 06:39:28 +
From: Linda Walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I came across this news item, and thought it might interest some group
members:-

Women who lived in the major Viking settlement called Birka in the 9th
and 10th centuries dressed in a much more provocative manner than
previously believed. ... When the area around Lake Mälaren was
Christianized about a century later, women’s dress style became more
modest, according to archaeologist Annika Larsson.

It's from The Local - Sweden's News in English
http://www.thelocal.se/9950/20080211/

What a pity there are no pictures of the reconstruction!

Linda Walton,
(in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.)


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Re: [h-cost] Re: hem marking

2008-02-02 Thread Jean Waddie

Robin Netherton wrote:

Pierre  Sandy Pettinger wrote:
We use the chalk-skirt-marker-and-box method also.  
My method is similar, but even lower-tech. I stand on a phone book. My 
choice of book depends on whether I want a hem that brushes the floor 
or comes a little higher or lower. For instance, if I want a hem that 
just touches the floor, I stand on a book that is about the width of 
the hem allowance. I then get a husband or friend to scoot around me 
marking the point where the skirt hits the ground. The hard floor 
makes a nice firm backing to the chalk as you mark.
I second this one.  Pretty much any friend can mark where the fabric 
hits the floor, while they may be far too nervous to try to mark a 
distance up from the floor.  My husband swore that he could not mark a 
hem straight, but using this method he marked a dress for me with box 
pleats at the front and a train at the back and it came out perfectly!


Jean
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Re: [h-cost] Another Historical Wedding Question

2007-12-20 Thread Jean Waddie
I've never come across Marriage by Correspondence.  But I'm shocked to 
find they abolished marriage by custom and repute - they kept that 
quiet!  Another unique little quirk of Scots law wiped out, sniff!


Jean


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello!

I am doing some digging around for rules concerning types of marriage in the 
British Empire in the 1870's. A Google search for British Common Law Marriage 
got me a Wikipedia entry that had a reference that mentions Marriage By 
Correspondence 
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marriage_in_the_United_Kingdom#Scotlan). However, I have been unable to find any other mention of it.


Do any of you have any more information about Marriage By Correspondence?

Henry Osier
Chief Spy
Costume-Con 28 in Milwaukee in 2010
www.CC28.org
View the latest Intell: http://agent-milw.livejournal.com/
Questions?: http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con_28/
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Re: [h-cost] Busy making holiday gifts?

2007-11-24 Thread Jean Waddie
I have just had a week off work making curtains for the new house.  I'm 
pretty pleased - two pairs of muslins, two pairs of full curtains, and 
two pairs for our two garden sheds, to stop people seeing what we are 
keeping in there.  We've spent today putting up new poles and hanging 
the curtains - the people before us had only white blinds and thin 
curtains, it's so much cosier now!


I have to go back to work on Monday - pooh!

JEan

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Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume

2007-11-02 Thread Jean Waddie

Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote:

I know I'm not the only one...

I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval
clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For
one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be
something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work
have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And,
also, well... they're not really costumes, are they?

So, with a closet full of beautiful costumes, I had to go out of my
way to scrounge together a fantasy gypsy outfit... and it's very nice
too!
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I know exactly what you mean.  I have used my historical costumes as a 
base - for example once I added some accessories to my hangarok and went 
to a cartoons party as Honi from Hagar the Horrible (I made a tinfoil 
helmet for my rubber duck and she came as Kvack) - but on their own, 
they just feel like clothes.


JEan
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Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hood, Holbein image

2007-10-18 Thread Jean Waddie

Suzi Clarke wrote:

At 00:47 18/10/2007, you wrote:
I'm at work on an English gable hood, as seen in this image:  http:// 
commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Gablehood_front-back_c1535_detail.jpg


Unfortunately I don't have a clear enough image to be able to answer
this question:  Is there a round button at the center of the
converging triangles on the black box on the back of her head? I
think I see it, but I'm not sure.

Thanks to anyone who can help!
I can't get the image to show up, but when I made my gable hood for 
the Museum of London, I did not see a button. the shape of the 
pleats on the box were formed simply by taking a tuck cross wise - 
it is a bit lumpy where the pleats cross, and it certainly looked 
pretty accurate, according to the Holbein drawing.


Suzi



Given the front-back c1535 I'm guessing the picture is Holbein's 
drawing of an unknown English lady - try this link:  
http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/backsketch.jpgIf you take the url 
back to ...tudor/ there's a great portfolio of pictures on this site. 

I can see what you mean, but I never saw it as a button before you 
suggested it, just the product of four triangles meeting.  There are so 
few pictures of the back of a gable hood, and with it always being black 
it's hard to confirm details!


Jean


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Re: [h-cost] Elizabeth reviews

2007-10-12 Thread Jean Waddie

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 10/12/2007 9:03:56 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


  
the story of the bastard monarch 



*

It was my impression the Ann and Henry were actually married when Liz was 
conceived, and that cutting someone's head off for supposed adultery is different 
from an annulment.


  
She was illegitimised by Act of Parliament (along with Mary) when Henry 
married Jane Seymour, to make sure any children he had with Jane would 
take precedence, even if it hadn't been a boy.  But that was repealed 
later, I can't remember when but she would have done it when she came to 
the throne herself, if it hadn't been done before.


 Judging by the picture that accompanies the article (a heavy purple 
moire gown cut beautifully but lacking any decoration)...


My first thought was, surely that shade of purple wasn't invented until 
the 19th century?


JEan

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Re: [h-cost] Repurposing fabric in the 1940s

2007-10-05 Thread Jean Waddie

Suzi Clarke wrote:

At 03:06 05/10/2007, you wrote:
Six years!?! It would have been out of style. At least, that's what I 
would

have claimed! :-)

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On

Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 4:06 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Re: repurposed fabric...repurposing in the 1940s

Still the best book in my collection of sewing and fashion books is the
1940s home dressmakers' book by Pocket Books. This little dynamo of 
100-odd

pages from a time when a Pocket Book would still fit in a pocket shows a
dozen different stitches, odd techniques, clever cheats, and gives
descriptions that are superior to any I have read elsewhere.

The highlight of the book, really, is how to make new things from old 
such

as the chapter on how to turn your husband's old suit into a stylish new
outfit for you.

It demonstrates how to dis-assemble the suit and lay a new pattern 
over the

old pieces and really is a very clever thing.

My only qualm would be the kind of sentence that must have rung out 
across

the world in 1946:

Darling, I am home from 6 long years in the military and I just 
cannot wait

to get out of this uniform and into my good old...



My mother remade my Dad's Royal Air Force uniforms into shorts and 
shirts for my brother in the late 40's or early 50's. and my Dad was 
still in the Air Force.


Thing was, he got promoted to an officer, and all his  uniforms had to 
be replaced. So there was all this lovely Air Force blue wool going to 
waste...


I collect the odd sewing book, and have a lovely wartime book on how 
to make do and mend clothes that have moth holes, have shrunk etc. And 
I remember wool knit jumpers being unravelled, the wool washed, and 
new things made.


Suzi
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Possibly my earliest memory is of unravelling a red wool jumper while 
watching Princess Anne's (first) wedding on television.  I think I would 
have been about three years old.  I remember the red wool - I don't 
remember anything about the wedding!


Jean
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Re: [h-cost] French hood for Elizabeth I

2007-09-21 Thread Jean Waddie
What you do sometimes get with very young girls is just the hood with no 
fall at the back.  It starts with hennins, where there are a few small 
girls wearing the dark front piece and no steeple.  It certainly carries 
on to English hoods, not sure of sources for French.  All my books are 
in boxes just now!


Jean

Melanie Schuessler wrote:
Definitely black.  In looking at hundreds of portraits and text 
references from the 16th c., I came across only a very very few images 
and references to hoods of another color.  The bags that Kimiko 
mentioned are only seen on portraits of girls, and generally in 
France.  The young Elizabeth would have been wearing a black velvet or 
silk hood, possibly with sewn-down knife pleats down the back.  The 
fall of the hood should be flat, narrow (the width of the head), and 
rounded at the bottom.  Many theatrical patterns have a flared veil in 
the back in the shape of a half-circle or similar, but there is no 
evidence for this shape that I've found.


As Kimiko suggests, velvet may not work well in doll scale, so a nice 
silk or silk-like fabric (like taffeta) might serve you better.


Melanie Schuessler



On Sep 21, 2007, at 3:27 PM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

I am continuing my retirement by creating historical costumes in 
minature for a standing line of willing, naked dolls.  Queen Maude 
(of Norway circa1906-1938) can bee seen in Doll Craft/Costuming, 
issue for November 2007, along with Queen  MarieAntoinette.  Have 
also been having a wonderful time recreating for Maude from the new 
Poiret catalogue from the Met. (Also the Wardrobe of Queen Maude of 
Norway)


The latest project is trying to evoke the Holbein portrait of 
Elizabeth I,( Kestner Gibson Girl Repro).  All goes well; have been 
leaning heavily on Hunnisett for the gown;(magically, the patterns of 
her books are just the size for the doll, so I only need to calculate 
skirt yardage.)  But for the French hood...Would the veil on the back 
have been Black or would there have been another color suggested for 
a young girlof 13 yrs.?  And, would this have been velvet as is 
suggested as the right fabric for the period?


Next in line is Eleanor of Toledo.  Got a marvelous fabric for the 
Branzino portrait on line last week. I will be using a lovely parian 
repro of the Grape Lady for that model.  Her face and stance is so 
placid and partrician!


Kathleen
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Re: [h-cost] speedy 18th century headwear

2007-09-13 Thread Jean Waddie
Quickest and easiest would be a small lace-edged doily with two 
streamers, if you achieve big hair, or a little ribbon bow at the back 
if not.  If you have time you can run a casing round the edge of the 
fabric circle and gather it so it's a bit more head-shaped rather than 
completely flat.  Attach with bobby pins through the lace so they don't 
show.


JEan


Elizabeth Walpole wrote:
Hi all, I've been invited to a 'Pirates of the Carribean' ball this 
weekend and I'm trying to create an 18th century impression (accuracy 
isn't hugely important but I'd like to kind of fit with the theme). 
I've done what I can with the dress itself (basically taking this 
dress http://farm1.static.flickr.com/117/315985189_13bdd4e2ef.jpg and 
trying to make it look like a robe a l'anglaise by adding a ruffle of 
lace to simulate engageantes [sp?], I also thought of looping the 
skirt up to simulate a polonaise but as it's not open in front I don't 
think that will work so well). But I think what is going to really 
make this look 18th century is the accessories. Thus far my plans are 
to try to simulate an 18th century hairstyle using my own (hip length) 
hair over pads and possibly a cap of some sort.
So my question is does anybody know of instructions on the web for 
making an 18th century cap that might work with 18th century big hair 
but also work OK with more flat hair if my attempts at big hair fail.

thanks
Elizabeth

Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

2007-09-13 Thread Jean Waddie
Do please try to go back and find out the source!  In our group we 
always say we don't know what women wore under their dresses, because 
we haven't found any naughty pictures from the period.  But I for one 
often wear braies just for warmth.  You don't necessarily need braies to 
wear hose or chausses, you can tie them straight to a belt or wear 
knee-length ones, but it's more comfortable with braies.


In terms of it being a scandal for women to wear drawers in later 
periods, it's amazing how short society's memory can be about that sort 
of thing.  And I was told by Hungarian folk dancers in the 1990s that, 
for them, it was still just recently that only prostitutes wore 
knickers.  Their dancing skirts were almost full circle, sunray pleated, 
but they wore a very short, straight underskirt to preserve their 
decency when the skirts flew up in spins and (they said) no knickers 
underneath.


Jean




Zuzana Kraemerova wrote:

Hello,

I recently looked through a (not yet published) costume book of one of my 
friends which tells about clothing in the western Europe around the 13th and 
14th centuries. It is divided into chapters, each for one specific garment 
(like gardecorp, tunic, surcotte...). It is supposed to talk about nobility.

Well, in a chapter about women's underwear, I found a picture of a woman 
wearing something like male braies, and another picture depicting a woman with 
a garment that looked like today's pants or knickers. It was redrawn, but if I 
could only remember the source...

The author said nothing and it looked like he was thinking it was a general 
practice for women to wear such underclothes. Well, if I remember right, all 
history of underwear books tell you what a scandal it was when (was it 
catherine de medici?) in the 16th century started to wear drawers, inspired by 
the eastern countries. Then, it was actually the 19th century when drawers 
became common and were no sign of scandal or anything else.

Another question that has something in common with the first one is: Would women wear chausses under the skirt when it was winter? If yes, it would be logic that they needed braies to tie the chausses to something. 


Do you know anything about this? I really am confused but this topic interests 
me quite a lot, so I'd like to get to know something more about it:-)

Many thanks,

Zuzana


   
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 Play Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games. 
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Re: [h-cost] ironing washed linnen

2007-08-15 Thread Jean Waddie
Why did i have to read this article before going to iron all our 
underlinen from last weekend's event?  It's much too dry, but time just 
doesn't allow for me to catch it while it's wet.  Spray bottle, where 
are you?


Jean


Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

Hi,
Manny manny thanks for your help with this. Ill wet it a little and 
put it in a plasticbag for the night, so that i can start ironing 
early tomorrow.


Thanks again.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor

2007-08-05 Thread Jean Waddie
The background looks to me like tapestry, or it might be painted 
pannelling.  I've never visited the Houses of Parliament but I bet these 
are all along a corridor or gallery somewhere.


Jean

Elizabeth Walpole wrote:


- Original Message - From: Melissa Brown Muckart 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, August 03, 2007 7:18 AM
Subject: [h-cost] help dating a portrait of Mary Tudor



Hello everyone,

I am embarking on some Tudor costume. I am searching for a citation 
for the portrait on this page:


http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0296/0296_.htm

I've looked around the website and cannot find any contact 
information for the website itself nor anywhere on the site that 
gives credit to the artists for the portraits therein. I've googled 
until my eyes bled, but was unable to find the first portrait 
anywhere else, which leads me to think it may be a more modern piece 
(a learned friend suggested perhaps Victorian).


I think this is probably Victorian looking at most of the other 
pictures listed nearby in this list of images 
http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/index.htm and the fact 
that images like this 
http://www.explore-parliament.net/nssMovies/02/0279/0279_.htm image of 
Anne Boleyn (which the website clearly says The painting on which 
this portrait is based is now known to show another Anne, a Queen of 
Hungary. other portraits e.g. Elizabeth of York, Catherine of Aragon 
and Catherine Howard also directly mention the original portraits they 
are based on) is painted on the same background I believe they are of 
the same date and therefore the image you're looking at is a 19th 
century (or later) copy, not a period image.

Elizabeth

Elizabeth Walpole
Canberra Australia
ewalpole[at]tpg.com.au
http://au.geocities.com/amiperiodornot/

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Re: [h-cost] Native american dresses

2007-07-18 Thread Jean Waddie
Wow!  That is fascinating, thanks so much for posting.  I thought the 
19th century cloth dresses were expecially interesting, the similarities 
and differences from European dress.


JEan


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I'm going to this exhibit tomorrow.
 
_http://www.nmai.si.edu/exhibitions/identity_by_design/IdentityByDesign.html_ 
(http://www.nmai.si.edu/exhibitions/identity_by_design/IdentityByDesign.html) 
 
 
This online version is really good! Check it out. Beautiful and  amazing!
 
Click on one of the different sections listed at the top of the page, then  
the arrow to the right advances the visuals. [It took me a minute to figure 
this  out...duh!]
 
Enjoy!
 




** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at 
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

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Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)

2007-07-12 Thread Jean Waddie

Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

At 18:48 11/07/2007, you wrote:


The sequel to the 1998 film Elizabeth, starring Cate Blanchette and
Geoffrey Rush, The Golden Age has released its first trailer. I caught
it on E channel on TV last night(suffered through 45+ minutes of Paris
Hilton, et.al until it finally showed!)

The costumes and hairstyles are amazing, but historical accuracy
mavens(and I'm one)will possibly not like them. I do appreciate how they
set the mood of the film, so I won't carp. Pity is is that it will be
Dec or later before most of us outside major cities will be able to
catch it--it will be around Thanksgiving or a week or two later before
its debut.

I hope a making of the movie book is in the works so I can drool over
costume pics for this film, accurate or not.



It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in Dracula in one of the 
pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.)


Suzi

It's certainly an interesting mis-interpretation of that 15th century 
style of headdress.  The doily in the middle makes her look like a 
butterfly cake!


Jean
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[h-cost] test

2007-07-05 Thread Jean Waddie

I've had no messages for a week - is anybody out there??
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Re: [h-cost] Anglo-Saxon in a nutshell?

2007-06-19 Thread Jean Waddie
In terms of differentiation, use decoration and jewellery.  Saxons go 
for braid, embroidery, and bling.  Normans are restrained and plain, 
just a bit of contrasting facing on cuffs and necklines.


Not necessarily accurate, but good shorthand for that kind of event.

Jean


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote


I will be attending an event with a theme of Saxons vs. Normans, later this
summer.  My husband and I have elected to side with the Saxons, but as this is
rather earlier than my usual periods, I'm not sure where to start.  How does
Saxon dress differ from Norman dress of roughly the same period?  Are there any
nifty websites that everybody who does 11th Century costuming knows about? I
don't need to be Excruciatingly Correct, but I do want to be 
identifiably Saxon.


Thank you for any pointers you may have,
Emma
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Re: [h-cost] lovely find

2007-06-18 Thread Jean Waddie
Just what I thought!  How wonderful to have the photo as well - but 
looking at the photo I would never have guessed the dress was bright 
red.


I seem to remember that when we only had black and white TV I was more 
used to recognising colours from their shading - watching snooker was 
not as pointless as it sounds.  I wonder if people were better at 
understanding the colours in Victorian photos when colour printing was 
less common?


Jean


Sheridan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Now that is an excellent reminder that old-e time-y clothing was most 
definitely not drab and dark.


Beautiful!

Sheridan P



From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]



1879 home robe
http://www.antiquedress.com/item4260.htm

De



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Re: [h-cost] Women in Art Retrospective

2007-06-15 Thread Jean Waddie

Anne Moeller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote




The metamorphosis between faces reminds me of nothing less than the
transformations in werewolf movies. An American Werewolf in
London in particular has the whole face stretching and morphing.
Ugh! I accept that it is very clever, but goodness it gives me the
creeps. Too many horror movies in my youth no doubt!



Suzi


Ah, yes.  A truly misspent youth :)

It was pretty strange but cleverly done.  The part that worried me was how
many faces I recognized !!

Anne

I liked the early part, the way the expressions change so it looks like 
the woman is turning to greet somone or shyly looking away from the 
viewer. But some of the later faces don't fit together so well, and it 
does get a bit disturbing at the end with the abstract pieces!


Jean

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Re: [h-cost] FW: The Attifet revisted

2007-04-04 Thread Jean Waddie
I assume when it says they do not let their faces be seen, we're 
assuming masked from the sides rather than covered completely?  Or is 
there any evidence for veils over the face?


Fascinatingly similar to recent discussions (in the UK) about Muslim 
veils - headscarf or face-veil?


Jean



WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Sorry if this is a repost, I don’t see it showing up on the list.
- Original Message -
From: Katherine Barich [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Here's the quote from page 82 (note the one t)

Atifet - Cette coiffure sévère, portée par la veuve de Henri II et les
dames nobles de Paris jusqu'a la fin du XVIe siècle, rehaussait par deux
petites arcades les cotés du front et couvrait la chevelure d'un voile
retombant sur les épaules.

1590 - Le nobili matrone di Parigi non si lasciano veder il viso ... la lor
acconciatura di testa e chiamata l'atifetto, il quale fa due archi dall
parte de fronte, coperto di un veletto attaccato con una punta sopra i
capelli del fronte, e poi cade sopra le spalle, e sotto di esso veletto si
vedon i capelli ricci ben accommodati (Vecellio, t. II, p 238, edit. Didot.)

[Atifet - This severe coiffure, worn by the widow of Henri II and the noble
ladies of Paris around the end of the 16th century, elevated by two small
arcs on either sids of the front and covering the hair with a veil falling
to the shoulders.]

[The noble matrons of Paris do not let their faces be seen...they arrange a
style on the head and call it the atifetto, which has two archs on either
side of the front, covered with a small veil attached to a point above the
hair in the front, and then falls to above the shoulders, and beneath the
small veil their curly hair is quite accommodated.]

Katherine


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Re: [h-cost] 1960s-70s School Dress Codes

2007-04-02 Thread Jean Waddie

Chris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote



Interestingly, these are still battlegrounds in some places. The 
school I work for is a Catholic private school for girls, and they 
have always worn uniforms.


Until this year, pants have only been allowed by special exemption to 
the few students we have whose families are Muslim (whose definition 
of modest dress includes having legs covered). This year, by radical 
innovation, students could wear pants during the winter, and some  did; 
but they had to be the official uniform pants, which are on the 
expensive side. Requests by students for the option of wearing pants 
are frequent, but always blocked by faculty who feel they are 
unprofessional looking unless they are the tailored uniform pants. 
Our students don't feel this is fair, especially since the other 
Catholic high schools in town that include girls _do_ allow pants. 
(For the one that requires uniforms, they must be a particular color 
of Dockers.) The faculty who object claim that if pants were allowed, 
it would be too difficult to define which pants were OK and which  were 
too tight, too low-slung, or too baggy and gang-like.


It will be interesting to see what happens :)



This reminds me of a bizarre rule we had at my school, in the 80s.  I 
don't remember being allowed to wear trousers except on the way to and 
home from school, as part of uniform.  But in the top 2 years, when you 
were no longer legally obliged to stay in school, you didn't have to 
wear uniform. This was standard in my area, I don't know if the same was 
true across England.  The idea was that you got used to wearing the kind 
of smart clothes that would be required when you left and got a job.  We 
were allowed to wear smart denim trousers but not jeans.  I never 
did understand what the difference was!


Jean

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[h-cost] Re: color names (getting OT)

2007-01-28 Thread Jean Waddie

Gail  Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote



I also once interviewed someone from the Pantone Institute, which is run by
the Pantone company that puts together formulas for inks. She told me, very
seriously, that green was the first color to appear in the universe.

Those color people are a funny lot!

Gail Finke



I know there are linguistic studies that aim to show the cognitive 
importance, if you like, of different colours by the order in which 
languages develop them.  You have to work on words for colours that are 
not linked to the description of an object - orange or aubergine, for 
example, just say the colour of that thing.  But all languages have 
words for light and dark, black and white.  I'm pretty sure the next one 
is red, then green and blue interchangeably.  So if a language has a 
word for either green or blue, it must also have a word for red - if it 
has no word for red, it can't have a word for green or blue.  I seem to 
remember it goes a bit random after that.


So green may have been the first colour to appear, but red is the most 
important one to identify and tell your friends about!


Actually  wouldn't there be volcanoes before plants? ;-)

Jean


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Re: [h-cost]Colour names, was Need Help

2007-01-26 Thread Jean Waddie
My husband does model wargaming, and I'm always entertained by the names 
of the paints, shaded specifically for the different armies' uniforms 
and camouflage designs.  Israeli desert pink is a favourite!


Jean

Ruth Anne Baumgartner [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Ultramarine, like many other colors (magenta, Prussian blue, 
midnight blue, apricot, burnt sienna, ocher, even lavender), was 
described definitively and permanently for me in my youth by my big 
set of Crayola crayons. And Patty's description definitely squares 
with Crayola.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
p.s. The Crayola color flesh has been long since re-named. Lucky, 
that--I didn't know ANYBODY who was that color, but clearly it did 
imply that dark-skinned people were an aberration as far as the color 
of their flesh was concerned, and I'm glad that notion has been 
obliterated! Significantly, though, I never can remember what the new 
name is


On Jan 26, 2007, at 9:58 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote:


American here - ultramarine was strong darkish slightly greenish blue
for me -when I was a girl - maybe a generational, not national, thing?

Patty

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Suzi Clarke
Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 4:22 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Colour names, was Need Help

At 09:06 26/01/2007, you wrote:



Kate Bunting
Librarian and 17th century reenactor


Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED] 26/01/2007 02:58  wrote:

Bear in mind that the meanings of many Victorian color names changed
from fashion season to fashion season; and also, different, trendier
names were often applied to the same old colors.


I find this is still true. Here in the UK aubergine is usually a 
dark

purple (the colour of what you Americans call eggplants), but in a
recent catalogue I've seen the name applied to a lighter
pinkish-purple.


I was buying cotton thread yesterday, and the mauve/purple/paler
aubergine thread was called Ultramarine. Now when I was a girl, as
they say, ultramarine was a strong darkish bright blue. My American
companion said that the purple-ish colour was a colour/name
association she knew - I didn't!

Suzi

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Re: [h-cost] Re: aprons

2007-01-23 Thread Jean Waddie
I have come across modern traditional costumes in France, probably 
based on 19th century, where they roll the overskirt up and to the back 
and tuck it into the waistband.  I was told this was originally to keep 
it clean, effectively using the linen/cotton underskirt instead of an 
apron.


Jean


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Sorry I'm a little late commenting on this subject, but Brueghel 
(Flemish 1530s-40s) portrays aprons that seem to be a big rectangle of 
linen tucked into a belt.


http://tinyurl.com/2ded6x

I have a book with a really good copy of this painting and other 
Brueghels, and up close you can see the women have tiny little narrow 
belts that seem to be leather. Some women wear more than one belt. 
Their aprons are usually tucked into a belt or sometimes their 
overskirts are flipped up and tucked into the belt, although I don't 
know if that's in lieu of an apron or just to show off the contrasting 
lining.


Hope this helps,
Tea Rose



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Re: [h-cost] Aprons (again)

2007-01-19 Thread Jean Waddie
These make me wonder whether the supposedly square / rectangular waist 
aprons, without a separate waistband, are extended in a similar way to 
provide ties.  You need an extremely large square to be able to just tie 
the corners around your waist.  But it does seem very wasteful if they 
are cut in one piece as they seem to be.


Jean

Lauren Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
It looks like waist-height aprons were often a square of linen with 
the top corners tied behind the back. In these Manesse Codex aprons, 
the smiths' aprons look as if they could be tied like napkins around 
the neck.


The seed-sower here in October of The Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Barry
http://humanities.uchicago.edu/images/heures/october.jpg is  definitely 
wearing some kind of simple square or rectangle tied round  the neck.


But this seed-sower seems to have a more constructed version:
http://classes.bnf.fr/idrisi/grand/1_04.htm
(Peasants in the field in Le Régime des princes)

A woman blacksmith and a man  in The Holkham Bible Picture Book  c. 
1327-1335, http://www.bl.uk/learning/images/medieval/year/ 
large2163.html, seem to have aprons where the napkin has been slashed 
somehow to provide shoulder straps and waist ties.


Does anyone have any thoughts on how these bib aprons might have been 
shaped or constructed?


Thanks for your thoughts.
Lauren
Lauren M. Walker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



On Jan 13, 2007, at 3:51 PM, otsisto wrote:


And the Manesse Codex but men.
1340
http://www.tempora-nostra.de/tempora-nostra/manesse.php?id=203tfl=124

But not the waist tie ones.
De



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Re: [h-cost] Aprons (again)

2007-01-19 Thread Jean Waddie

Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote


On Fri, 19 Jan 2007, Jean Waddie wrote:


These make me wonder whether the supposedly square / rectangular waist
aprons, without a separate waistband, are extended in a similar way to
provide ties.  You need an extremely large square to be able to just
tie the corners around your waist.  But it does seem very wasteful if
they are cut in one piece as they seem to be.


When I need an apron, I take a linen rectangle (which I normally use as a
napkin), tie a ribbon or cord around my waist with the bow in front, fold
over the short edge of the napkin by a handsbreadth, and tuck it into the
ribbon to hold it across my front. You wouldn't be able to tell from a
distance that the ribbon isn't attached. I have no authority for how I do
this and wouldn't present it as authentic, but it works, uses known
technology, and looks like the pictures.

--Robin

I can see that for the narrow ones that hang flat.  But can you 
reproduce the look of the ones that pull and drape, like the Bakery and 
Buttermaking ones?  I find it particularly interesting that these don't 
seem to tie around the actual waist, but hang lower.

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Re: victorian wedding clothes, was [h-cost] Another film costume rant

2007-01-05 Thread Jean Waddie
Reading this thread, and the questions about necklines and sleeves, I 
wonder did it have any effect that a wedding dress is made for going to 
church, in the first place?  Even quite recently, many people would 
frown upon a wedding dress that was off the shoulder or sleeveless - it 
might be covered up with a shawl or bolero jacket for the ceremony, and 
then uncovered for the reception.  What was the dress code for church in 
Victorian times - I suspect it was much more severe in middle and lower 
classes, but what could an upper-class bride get away with?


Jean


Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Albert Cat,

I have etiquette books from the later part of the Victorian period. 
They suggest that the bride wear her wearing dress for the first year 
after the wedding.  She is to wear to special events.


My grandmother married in 1901 and had a nice white wedding dress. She 
wore it church frequently.  BTW, she was of modest means.


Penny Ladnier,
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
www.costumelibrary.com
www.costumeclassroom.com
www.costumeencyclopedia.com
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Re: [h-cost] The Green Valley

2006-12-04 Thread Jean Waddie
It was absolute bliss, utterly fascinating - and in Scotland they 
decided to take it off after 9 episodes, so we had to get the DVD to see 
the last 3 months, grrr!  I learned so much that you just don't think of 
- not specifics, but general things, like, spring is not a time of 
plenty, spring is the lean time while you wait for new stuff to grow. 
And what tools and structures are permanent, and which are temporary or 
disposable, made new when you need them.  Wonderful series.


Jean

Five Rivers Chapmanry [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

   I don't know if any of you are following TVO's presentation of
the BBC series that follows the lives of several archaeologists/experts who
are recreating life in the 16th century. Unlike most reality shows, this one
is not set up for conflict, rather for discovery, hence the reason they
chose people who were knowledgeable of, and experienced with recreating, the
period in question.



   The costuming is wonderful, right down to the torn shirt of one
of the fellows, frayed hems, grotty nails and all. They're eating real
period food, doing real period tasks, with knowledge and in some cases with
additional expertise. There's no whining and whinging and secret caches of
modern items. They are completely and utterly dedicated to their year in the
16th century. It has been an interesting journey and I look forward to
further instalments.



Regards,

Lorina

Five Rivers Chapmanry

purveyors of historical sewing patterns, quality hand-crafted cooperage,
re-enactor and embroidery supplies, and more.

519-799-5577 [EMAIL PROTECTED] - www.5rivers.org



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Re: [h-cost] Mona Lisa

2006-09-29 Thread Jean Waddie

otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Note the Mona Lisa's left shoulder. There seems to be a shear something
which I do not think is her veil.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/85/Mona_Lisa.jpeg

I'm only looking at the online picture, but I think that thing by her 
left shoulder might be a leaf  or palm or something, that she is holding 
in her left hand.  See how her fingers are positioned? and it doesn't 
seem to sit right for fabric draped over her shoulder.


Jean

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Re: [h-cost] Sharpe BBC(A) series

2006-08-02 Thread Jean Waddie

Adele de Maisieres [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Elizabeth Young wrote:

BBC America's Playhouse show has been running the series of 2 hour 
Sharpe movies lately. All 1813.
What do you (collectively) think of the costuming, both civilian and 
military?

I like it, but what do I know? :)



The men's costuming is pretty good.  The women's falls somewhere 
between mediocre and appalling.


I've never read the books, but from watching the series (mainly to drool 
over Sean Bean) I suspect this is an accurate reflection of the relative 
importance of the female characters!

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Re: [h-cost] not a recent book?

2006-06-11 Thread Jean Waddie
When I worked in a civil service library, people would come in asking if 
we had an Act of Parliament It's quite far back, 1960's... - We had 
all legislation back to Edward I !!


Jean

M+D: Mary and Doug Piero Carey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

And I had my periodicals librarian hat on.  When my patron's first
words are do you have old newspapers?, they might mean yesterday's
paper, or they might mean 1793!

Maria

Robin said: Heh. I had my journalist hat on for that one. When I
worked on a daily newspaper, anything more than a week old was
ancient.
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Re: [h-cost] place names, was: Hancock Fabrics

2006-06-04 Thread Jean Waddie
My husband and I have a theory that there should be wormholes between 
places with the same name, so you only have to drive to the one nearest 
and then travel almost instantaneously to the distant one.  We think 
this every time we set off on the 10-hour drive to my parents, and pass 
a town of the same name about 1 1/2 hours into the journey!


Jean


Ailith Mackintosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

:-D

That's nothing...in Ohio, I can visit London, Paris, Cairo, Lima, 
Toledo and Mantua in a day. Of course, some of them are pronounced 
oddly; Mantua is Man-ta-way; Lima is Ly-ma like the bean. Cairo and 
Paris are just wide spots in the road.


Except for Toledo, none of them have a fabric store. :-(

kate, the wanderer

- Original Message - From: Wanda Pease [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 7:41 PM
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Hancock Fabrics



Did this post make anyone else's head hurt from the names involved (grin)?

Poland?  Then I got the feeling that the country wasn't what was named by
Youngstown, but then Boardman (which is in Oregon as far as I'm concerned)
came up.  Then we had China (Canton) to balance out Poland!

That's what happens when you read in the preview screen and haven't 
an  clue

what you have just opened.

Regina, Laughing in delight at the names found in short distances in 
the  US



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Re: [h-cost] When and how did you start making costume?

2006-05-22 Thread Jean Waddie
I don't remember voluntarily sewing articles as a child.  I remember 
making a toy rabbit at Brownies, and Binker embroidered mats at primary 
school, but I never made clothes for dolls or anything like that.  My 
mother was a needlework teacher, so I learned the basics, and we had to 
do needlework for a year in high school.  I think my mother did most of 
the dressmaking because she was quicker and better at it.  It was only 
when I got into re-enactment that I saw a reason to sew for myself, and 
all that I had absorbed without noticing came out - and Mother was quite 
stunned at my readiness to make garments without a pattern! (only 
t-tunics etc, but it's a start.)


I enjoy the making, and the wearing.  Research is not really my scene. 
I hate cutting out, but once I get going on putting it together, and 
sitting gently hemming, I'm very happy.  I wish I lived closer to 
someone who liked the other parts, and we coud share.


Jean
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Re: [h-cost] Picture of my silk bliaut

2006-04-05 Thread Jean Waddie
You really have got the look, it's lovely.  Some time I will take the 
time to read through your site with my Dutch dictionary.  But I do like 
the picture of the dress all twisted up - it looks as if it would go 
through a wedding ring, like a Christening shawl was meant to do!


Jean


Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

It is the very basic construction. with gores to make the skirt wider
and side lacing with added lengt.
The pleating is done by moisting the silk, pleat and let it dry for a day.
Here is the rest of the website.
It is in Dutch
http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/Bliaut.html

Susan Carroll-Clark wrote:


Greetings--

Deredere Galbraith wrote:


Finally a picture of the bliaut I am working on.
Made from natural dyed silk and the belt from natural dyed wool
http://mystictimes.nl/Bliaut/ZijdeBliaut.jpg


Very spiff!  You've definitely got the look down.  Which 
construction method did you use? (For the uninitiated, there are 
several theories of bliaut construction, including simple side lacing, 
side lacing with added length through the body to get the folds across 
the belly, bias-cut, separate skirt piece, and various types of 
pleating/smocking--not to mention the largely discredited corselet  cut).




Susan
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Re: [h-cost] Tudor costumes for dummies? Help for a theatrical group

2006-03-24 Thread Jean Waddie

Nicole,

That's setting yourself a challenge!  But I have to say, they're a lot 
better than the last time I went to Linlithgow Palace.


I think you may be able to do a lot with what they have, by tightening 
up the tailoring and getting them into some proper underpinnings, or at 
least stiffening the garments.  There's a lot of reasonable stuff there, 
especially the men, they just look too ... comfortable! (I don't mean 
that period clothing should be uncomfortable, but they look as if they 
could slump on the sofa in these costumes - tracksuit Tudor!)


Jean



Nicole Kipar [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Right, my question/dilemma is this:

There is a very nice theatrical amateur dramatics group in my new 
Scottish hometown near Edinburgh, called the Linithgow Players. In the 
summer months they do plays dressed in Tudor costume at Linlithgow 
Palace,  the birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots. They set place at the 
Court of James V and act out scenes with Mary, all for Historic 
Scotland (very similar to the National Trust or English Heritage). 
Anywya, that said, the costumes are.. ermm... uhm... not so very good, 
to be kind.


I offered, because I just moved here on my own three weeks ago (my 
partner's still serving and staioned 500 miles away *sniff*) and would 
like to get stuck in with costumes and people and to have something 
nice to do, to help with their costumes. That's all very well, but, 
while I know a hellofa lot about clothing 1660 - 1715 I know next to 
nothing about Tudor costumes. HELP! I am ordering Ninya's book, but as 
Teddy said rightly, this is a theatrical group, we don't need to nor 
want to make it authentic (they wouldn't even have the budget for that) 
but to make it look GOOD and make it look better than it is now. Bless 
them, some costumes are quite nice, but others, I think, we could 
definitely do something about that and I would love to help and get the 
needle going (and spend some time in the pub with company ;-) This is 
their photo page:


http://www.linlithgowplayers.org.uk/LPsite/PhotosRe-enactments.htm

Don't let yourself be fooled by the reenactment bit, I don't think 
they got the terminology quite right. It's definitely acting, not 
re-enacting and we would see it. :-)


Anyway, I don't know where to start, I feel lost in a jungle of Too 
Much Information. Can anyone, please pleae please point me into the 
right direction of where to start getting a really good feel for Tudor 
period costumes and, most importantly, which patterns could be adapted 
(I have Margo Anderson's Lady's wardrobe and Man's wardrobe) and if I 
can even use some commercial big companies patterns, because those are 
usually quite easy. Any and all help appreciated, I'd love it if I 
could help them get the look a bit more right and at the same time do 
it on a tiny (!!!) budget and a shoestring with only four hands to help 
(another lady's and mine - and I'm actually overworked at my new work 
anyway thus haven't got 'that' much time).


Thanks ever so much in advance, I really am drowning in websites, 
books, info, and just don't know where to start and where to go to for 
a theatrical good looking budget version (it has to be court costume) 
of Tudor costume.


Nicole


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Re: [h-cost] RE: Regency Dress Closures (was back side lacing)

2006-03-21 Thread Jean Waddie
Thank you all so much for your help - especially Hope for posting all 
those scans.  I think How to Make a Regency Ballgown that Doesn't Look 
Like a Hippie Prom Dress is almost exactly where my friend is at!


And wouldn't you just know it - why can't we see how they fastened these 
things?  Because they hid it from us!  Honestly, you'd think people 
would have a bit of consideration for future historians when they 
designed these fashions ;-)


Jean
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Re: [h-cost] RE back side lacing was:Stomacher --a photo demo

2006-03-20 Thread Jean Waddie
This pink dress reminded me... a friend is making a Regency style gown, 
for a party so it doesn't have to be particularly authentic, but neither 
of us can work out - how/where do they fasten?  Some have buttons down 
the centre back, but most don't seem to have any visible opening. 
Please, somebody, give us a clue?


Jean


otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

This is not English or a kirtle/corset but back side lacing goes back aways.
Sorry I am not well versed with dates.
http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk1.html
This is 1580. Note the woman in pink.

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/wkclass/wk12.html

De
-Original Message-
Hi,
I should not have answered as i did, obviously they did it in a different
way than in my period.
How long time did they have this lacing in the side bodice? Anybody knows?

Bjarne


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Re: [h-cost] what do renaissance seamen look like?

2006-03-11 Thread Jean Waddie
Oh no - I put a kilt together with Cap'n Jack's way of walking and I get 
- centre of Glasgow on a Saturday night!  Not a good picture!


Jean


Melody Watts [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

hhow about Cap'n Jack IN a kilt??
ultimate rowwhhh!double oye!
melody

--- Dianne  Greg Stucki [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




 And yeah, if you got a hubby willing to dress like
Capt'n Jack... oye.
 Enjoy yourselves. ;-)
 I fell in love with my husband because he enjoyed
wearing kilts... I
 really like men in kilts.

 Kimiko

Last week's People magazine had a photo of Johnny
Depp, taken on the set of
the new POtC movie. He was shirtless...rarr.

Dianne

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Re: [h-cost] Equestrian costuming other period tack

2006-03-10 Thread Jean Waddie

Susan Data-Samtak [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
snip


I've also heard that many of the conventions followed by sidesaddle 
riders today, using english style sidesaddles, go back to Victorian 
times when so much of life was codified.  One example that was pointed 
out to me: black gloves are appropriate to use for US Rev War 
impressions, but definitely not for US Civil War, because Victorians 
used black gloves as part of their mourning attire and A Lady would 
not be riding if she were in mourning.  A Lady would stay at home, or 
be driven in a carriage.  Can anyone confirm such a statement?



snip

My impression is that Ladies rode for exercise and pleasure, rather than 
to get from A to B, therefore it is not something one would do while in 
mourning.


Jean

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Re: [h-cost] Funny Nail Polish Colors

2006-03-07 Thread Jean Waddie
Fantastic!  I'm busy decorating - this makes such a welcome change from 
sorbet and mist and spice.


I'm disappointed with My Chihuahua Bites, though - I think it should be 
poison green.  I was traumatised as a child by a ballet examiner with 
bright green nail polish and a small dog under the desk.


Jean


Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
I am always looking for funny color names.  OPI has some 2006 nail 
polish colors names!  Check these out:

Reds:
*** I'm Not Really a Waitress
*** Nice Color, Eh?
*** O'Hare  Nails Look Great!
*** SoHo Nice to Meet You
*** You Rock-apulco Red
*** My Chihuahua Bites! (my favorite)

To view all their color names go to http://www.opi.com/

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Re: [h-cost] abuse of fabrics (aka care and washing) question

2006-03-05 Thread Jean Waddie
One tip, especially for linen - take your yardage and zigzag the two raw 
edges together, into a loop, before you wash it.  It's the quickest, 
simplest way to make sure you don't come out with a spaghetti bundle of 
frayed threads.


Jean


Kahlara [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Can someone point me in the right direction for info/resources on best 
washing methods fof various natural fabrics, especially linen and wool. 
I know that many of my off the rack 'modern' clothes specify dry 
cleaning, but if I were to wash my linen and wool yardage first (cool 
water of course), would that make the finished garment washable by the 
same method as well without too much risk of shrinkage? It would be so 
much simpler.


 Thanks,
 Annette M


-
Yahoo! Mail
Bring photos to life! New PhotoMail  makes sharing a breeze.
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Re: [h-cost] difference of the sexes

2006-03-05 Thread Jean Waddie

Bjarne,

I don't know much about the period, but is there a difference between 
how close the garments are to the body?  I'm thinking of a man's 
waistcoat and coat compared to a woman's dress, I would imagine a man's 
shirt is a more substantial garment than a woman's shift, and therefore 
offers more protection to the outer layers.  Alternatively, does the 
silk help the waistcoat and coat move over the heavier linen of the 
shirt and the outer layer of the waistcoat, while women are not wearing 
layers that move against each other to the same extent?


Jean


Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Hi.
When i went to Frankfurt recently, we disgussed this strange thing that 
all of us has noticed.
All gentlements garments in 18th century is lined with silk, but all 
ladies garments lined with linnen?

Is there any natural explantation of this?
Also Mauritia told me, when working on the wedding suit of Christian 
VII, that his suit was lined with linnen, very unusuall. I told her, 
that perhaps it was because of the insanity of the king ( he was 
suffering of skitsofrenia), and that perhaps he used to sweat 
exceptionally much because of this? I have no idea of that, but back to 
the difference of the sexes, why do you think they did this?


Bjarne




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] RE: Quality of clothing

2006-02-27 Thread Jean Waddie
Do you still have Droopy and Browns in York?  The one in Edinburgh 
closed some years ago - they did the most gorgeous clothes, but clearly 
for the well-endowed, and I was an A-cup then!


I find an assumption that if you get richer, you get taller - I can get 
skirts and trousers in cheap end high-street shops, but walk into Cruise 
or Karen Millen and the rails are at shoulder height and the skirts are 
nearly to the floor!  And it's been a long time since skirts were a 
shape you could just take 6 inches off the bottom.


Jean


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

obviously doens't apply to all, but bravissimo in the UK (bras in cups D and
above) have been doing clothing for a while now, and their suits are a godsend
if you're of ample bosom(!!!), and have the old 'if it fits on the waist it
gapes over the chesr' thing.

They come in normal sizes, with an extra sizing of curvy and super curvy,
dependant on cup size.  I just wish they'd expand the normal sizes they 
cover up

a bit (I'm about the top end, and I'm only a UK size 16, (not counting chest!)
so not *that* huge.

but it the things that really irritate me (probably in equal measure) is the
assumption that if you get bigger, you somehow magically get taller too; and
the retailers that stop at a size 14UK (or who think that a size 12UK is
'large').

debs





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*Auto Saved* Re: [h-cost] Olympics costumes

2006-02-21 Thread Jean Waddie

Hope Greenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I think the costumes from last night's long program were an 
improvement  over  the compulsory dance ones.  I was impressed that 
the few I saw  actually  seemed to fit the theme of the music--Romeo 
and Juliet, Carmen, and  flamenco.


...and then there were the Italians! 
(http://www.nbcolympics.com/2006/0220/5121831_640X480.jpg)


My first reaction to their costume was hey, that looks like something 
I'd put together when my daughter says 'Mom, can you make me a fantasy 
costume for an event...it starts in an hour' My husband called it the 
walked through a fabric store with glue on look.


Second reaction was: then again, it looks like a modern interpretation 
of some nice early Baroque opera costumes


Of course, when the music started (music from movie 'Prince of Eygypt') 
I couldn't help but think yeah I can see Moses and Zippora tending 
sheep in that outfit...


But the skating was lovely!

- Hope


That one was really vile, and it didn't help their presentation - when 
they did lifts, the costumes were so busy you couldn't tell which bits 
were her and which were him!


But the other Italians were just as bad - strawberry and pistachio, and 
then she turned round and it had flowers as well!  Like swimwear for 
mature ladies - yeugh!


I do think the short programme outfits suffered from the fact they were 
all doing Latin, which always has ridiculously skimpy dresses.  I 
don't know if they were required to do Latin rhythms - it didn't seem to 
suit all of them as dancers.


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[h-cost] 16th Century Effigies - loops!

2006-02-10 Thread Jean Waddie
To America and back  I passed this on to my sister, who works for 
Hampshire Council's library service.  Their local studies department 
hadn't heard of the project and send their thanks back round the loop 
for the information!


Jean


Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Passing this alone from another list...

Good news! A brand new research resource for c16th dress arrives on line - a
pilot database of images is available at:

http://www.jmdsrv1.dyndns.org/tudoreffigies

This is the first stage of a project to photograph and make available
photographs of Tudor effigies in UK churches. The pilot database contains 44
effigies with photographs of items and features of dress. This represents
about two per cent of the material that could be compiled from similar
sources.

Eventually, each effigy and its details will have a description with
appropriate c16th terms and an explanation of how they were worn.

The database has been compiled by Dr Jane Malcolm-Davies at Winchester
School of Art. Feedback on the usefulness of the images and suggestions for
improvement will help with an application for continued funding for the
project.

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Re: [h-cost] Child-friendly sword

2006-02-08 Thread Jean Waddie
Kids I know generally have wood, padded and then covered with leather. 
Works for both swords and axes, and looks period as well as being 
relatively safe.


Jean


Shane  Sheridan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Hello everyone!

I'm forwarding this on behalf of someone on another list; I figured folks
here would have an idea or two. :-)
--
Snip to relevent question:


On another note, friends of mine are looking for a safe dagger / short

sword for the enjoyment of their young son.  (Safe - as in will not puncture
or perforate another person, causing welts upon older brother is considered
acceptable use)   They do not want the cheap plastic junk found at
halloween.  I vaguely remember someone posting on a forum about a rubber
dagger, seems to me it was made out of a similar material to that of hockey
pucks.  But unfortunately I cannot seem to find where I saw it.  If anyone
knows what I'm talking about, please let me know.

--
Thanks in advance!

Sheridan


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Re: [h-cost] Harris Tweed

2006-02-04 Thread Jean Waddie
If it's the hard, tight-woven stuff, make hoods for you and yours.  It's 
as waterproof as anything.


Jean


Caroline [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

I have been very fortunate and have come into the posession of just over 3
yards of Harris Tweed. It's only 28 wide so it's a bit small for a tunic
for my other half.

I could make a medieval tunic with different material in the sleeves? Any
thoughts as to how that might look - are we in a 'spoiling the ship for a
ha'porth of tar' situation.

Can anyone think of something that could be made with it? I suppose if all
else fails I could sell it

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Re: Fw: [h-cost] Sees

2006-02-04 Thread Jean Waddie
And Barbie appears to be wearing black court shoes (pumps) rather than 
white trainers, which also helps!


Jean

Lori Alston [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

http://www.wweek.com/html/lifefeature112499.html

Second one down in black and white you can see the big bow...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=6031569409category=15953
Barbire in a uniform this one fits better on Barbie then they do in 
real life behind the counter



- Original Message - From: Glenda Robinson 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, February 03, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Sees


I've seen worse, Darrell Lea in Australia used to have their shop 
assistants in a large shapeless shift with a huge floppy bow about the 
same place as this uniform. Shocking! Unfortunately, I can't find a 
photo of these on the net. Anyone else in OZ have any pics?


Glenda.

, but the 20th century

isn't exactly my area of costuming interest...


I'd say early tacky or late dowdy ;-)  Seriously though, I've seen 
some hideous work uniforms but I think Sees is a real leader here. 
Fortunately their candy is wonderful and they're not selling their 
uniforms...those poor ladies...


Julie

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Crisps?

2006-02-01 Thread Jean Waddie
It has at least as much caffeine as Coca Cola, and more sugar.  I have 
known all-night programming/gaming types go back to the US and be unable 
to keep awake on Coke, having got used to Irn Bru!


Also recommended in Scotland as a hangover cure.

Jean


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote


And what is Irn Bru?

Bright orange Scottish 'fruit' flavoured fizzy drink, 'made in Scotland from
girders'.

http://www.irn-bru.co.uk/

Debs
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Re: [h-cost] Gifts for Brits (was: 16th century and gifts for Brits)

2006-01-30 Thread Jean Waddie
You've just reminded me - dark and gold Mars bars!  The ones with plain 
chocolate and white nougat seem to be standard in the US, they only 
release them in the UK on very occasional limited edition - ours are 
milk chocolate and brown nougat.  The only American chocolate I prefer 
to British.


Jean

Rhonda Donaldson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Hi All,

Since I sent in the Hershey's example - I tend to agree with Sharon.  I
have friends in Scotland that love Hershey's kisses because they are
different.  When I visit that's usually what I take.  But when I come
back to the U.S. I bring; Irn Bru, yummy cheese, chocolates, Scottish
Blend tea, Jaffa Cakes and different flavored crisps...different stuff
is nice to have...

Just a matter of taste...but I do like to check in with all my pals
across the pond to see if they would like anything new or non-food or
different.

Have a great one,

Rhonda

PS my favs are crunchie bars and tablet...YUM!  But here in the U.S.
it's twix or dark chocsor just food : P



Rhonda Donaldson
LTA II
e-Reserves Jr. Guru
Access Services
Downtown Campus Library
P O Box 6069
Morgantown, WV
26506
293-4040 x4094
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Without change, something sleeps inside us, and seldom
awakens. The sleeper must awaken.
--Frank Herbert

Weiner's Law of Libraries: There are no answers, only
cross-references.

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Re: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT

2006-01-29 Thread Jean Waddie
If it's going on the battlefield and possibly  getting wrapped around 
armour and other spiky things, noil or dupion is good because it's not a 
smooth surface to begin with, so it won't look ruined the first time a 
thread gets pulled.  Dupion would be lighter than noil - easier to carry 
and more chance of fluttering in anything less than a gale.


Jean


Becky [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Most people think silk is a delicate fiber, but it is a very strong 
thread. Silk noil or dupioni silk are strong and thicker than the 
lightweight silk. If you layer the silk it's even better.
I took silk painting and you can paint directly onto it. It can be sewn 
onto, yarn punched or appliqued. Great designs can be chain stitiched 
like designs on wool fabrics from ancient China.
Silk is great for banners. Just make sure to store it somewhere moths 
and bugs can't get into the project. I'm battling moth holes in a silk 
artwork I did. Luckily the holes are small and I can creatively stitch 
over them.


- Original Message - From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2006 1:10 AM
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric question SOT



I am looking for a light weight material to make a banner.
I have been recommended Silk Noil as a possible fabric.
How sturdy is silk noil as I have never worked with this material.
What would you recommend? Needs to not look modern.
I have some idea what I am looking for but I am covering all bases.
Basically, there is a 6' x 2 1/2'(tapering) embroidered and appliqued
banner. It is made of silk and wool. The creator of the banner added an
upholstery fringe (allegedly silk) around the edge. This banner is usually
carried into battle, so what I am looking into is making a copy so 
that this
beautiful banner won't get trashed. Also because of the fringe and it 
being
top heavy it makes things difficult for the carrier. During a good 
wind the

banner could easily take out someone (either army's personnel, it doesn't
discriminate) or wrap itself around the carrier (On the bright side 
it does

make it harder for the opposition army to take it when they have to deal
with a body).
If I take on the project, I have two weeks to complete it.

Thank you,
De


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Re: [h-cost] warming a castle

2006-01-18 Thread Jean Waddie
Well, precisely!  I have been smiling indulgently at this thread - some 
of us actually live in the UK, y'know, and seem to manage fine ;-)


Jean


Karen R Bergquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

I think we are failing to take a very important issue into consideration-
acclimatization (sp?). I live near Chicago and after one of our bakingly
hot summers, the first time the temperature dips down near freezing
(especially if it's a sudden drop) I feel the cold quite a bit. By the
end of the winter season , I am laughing at the idea of 32F being cold.
Earlier this week we had a day that was up above 45F and there were
people out in just tee-shirts and jeans. I also recently saw a piece on
one of the educational channels about a woman who trained for years to
swim in extremely cold water and eventually was able to swim between
Alaska and Siberia in water that the experts say should have killed her
in 20 minutes- she was able to swim in it for over 2 hours and come out
none the worse for the experience. I realize this is an extreme example
but it shows how well the human body can adjust to various temperatures.

My opinion is that if you lived in the space all year round, not only
would a constantly burning fire raise the average temp, YOU'D BE USED TO
IT!

Just my temperature tuppence,

Karen
Seamstrix



On Tue, 17 Jan 2006 18:36:55 -0800 Sharon L. Krossa
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

At 7:35 PM + 1/17/06, Laura Dickerson wrote:
  A number of years ago we visited Cothele House in Cornwall on a
cold rainy April day.  It's a granite and slate Tudorish house
with
fancy woodwork and lots of tapestries on the walls.  No electric
lights, no central heating.  There was a blazing fire in the great
hall fireplace, but unless one was standing quite near the fire,
it
didn't seem to help much.  Dark and damp and chilly, although it
was
at least out of the wind.

 From the web site I note that this house is closed during the
winter,
from November through late March, and so doesn't really answer the
question of how warm it would be if it was lived in all year round
(including the fire places going at least all winter, possibly all
year round) -- especially not when visited in April only a few weeks

after opening again.

(Another consideration is, even when it is open, is it kept heated
when tourists aren't there, or are the fires only going during
business hours?)

All those layers of woolen clothes seemed
like a good idea.

I have no doubt this is true -- indeed, it is still true in Britain,

in my experience, even with central heating...

Sharon
--
Sharon Krossa, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Resources for Scottish history, names, clothing, language  more:
 Medieval Scotland - http://MedievalScotland.org/
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Re: [h-cost] medieval quote on underwear

2006-01-13 Thread Jean Waddie

Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

I have spent the weekend at an event
in an English castle and I can tell you they are still damp.


Were there any fires inside? Most of the castles we visited in France
were damp and cold, but twice we visited castles where the chimneys
had been restored so they'd made a fire inside - makes a whole world
of difference. They would still be cold in the winter, though...

I have always thought that once you built a castle and got the fires 
going, and then kept the fires going, winter and summer alike, it 
probably held the heat better than you might expect.  Thick stone walls 
are certainly very good insulation when it comes to keeping heat out - 
one event inside a castle at Easter, we were going outside to warm up!


Jean
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[h-cost] medieval quote on underwear

2006-01-10 Thread Jean Waddie
I got The Letters of Abelard and Heloise for Christmas,  and was 
interested to come across this quote today.  Heloise is asking Abelard 
to draw up a rule for her convent, pointing out that the existing 
monastic Rule of St Benedict makes no provision for nuns, so they cannot 
follow it properly.  And the first example she cites is:


Leaving aside for the moment the other articles of the Rule;  how can 
women be concerned with what is written there about cowls, drawers or 
scapulars?  Or indeed, with tunics or woollen garments worn next to the 
skin, when the monthly purging of their superfluous humours must avoid 
such things?


Of course, this is a 1970s translation of medieval latin clothing terms, 
but I think we can probably rely on drawers and woollen garments. 
Caution probably required with tunics ;-)


Jean




Danielle Nunn-Weinberg [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Greetings!

Welcome to the 16th century, a fun and exciting place. G  Drawers 
arrived in England during Elizabeth's reign but were considered 
novelties and foreign.  They weren't adopted as regular wear until 
later.  I've lived in England (as well as Canada and the US) and didn't 
find it that cold at all, so I think it is all a matter of perspective. 
Certainly once you have all the correct layers on, drawers aren't going 
to make much difference except for possibly during activities like 
horseback riding.  However, having seen 16th century sidesaddles 
(rather odd looking contraptions - one was round and perfectly flat 
with a peg sticking up for the leg to hook over) even then the drawers 
would be rather immaterial.


Cheers,
Danielle

At 11:53 PM 1/8/2006, you wrote:

Um, I have a rank newbie question. I was always told that ladies didn't  wear
drawers in this period. Is that a myth, or a regional thing, possibly? I
usually do English.

And I've always suspected that it couldn't be true. I've BEEN to England.  It
gets COLD there.

Thanks for your forbearance,
Tea Rose


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Re: [h-cost] Mainly for UK members - new web site for Costumers

2006-01-05 Thread Jean Waddie
Oooo!  That takes me back.  My mother taught needlework in South 
London schools, and I can remember going into McCulloch and Wallis with 
her to order supplies, from an early age.  Aladdin's cave!


Jean


Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote


Thought everyone, but mainly from the U.K. I expect, would like to know 
that MacCulloch and Wallis has gone live with its online catalogue and 
ordering service. I thought it was a very good site. If anyone has 
problems with it, please let me know and I will pass on the information.


www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk

Suzi (A regular customer for mumble-mumble years.)


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Re: [h-cost] Just for fun...

2005-12-05 Thread Jean Waddie
Looks good to me (who knows nothing about research from extant 
materials).  The thing I instantly wanted was a family tree to track who 
the items were made by, and for, and who was making the comment.


Jean


Marc Carlson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
As I mentioned recently, I have this nice collection of vintage 
materials - most of which are barely indexed and none really 
catalogued.  So I'm trying to figure out a way to get most of this 
stuff into a form that would be useful.


This is a test page.

Note that if this were the real thing, they'd all have pictures.

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/Rushmore/Rushmore.htm

I'd appreciate any suggestions.

marc


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Re: [h-cost] Seam finishing on wool

2005-12-02 Thread Jean Waddie
If the fabric is reasonably tight woven, and your seam allowances are 
not too narrow, it should be OK.  When you wash it, it will fray a tiny 
bit, but it will also felt a bit to stick the frayed bits together.  Of 
course, you don't wash it every week  (I remember trying to explain to a 
colleague of my husband's that you don't wash wool jumpers every time 
you wear them!) but it will survive washing often enough not to be 
smelly.


Jean


Caroline [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Betsy - you have described my normal method of heming here. Visibility on
the front is not necessarily undesirable - it certanly looks like some of
the medieval stiches were both functional and decorative.  I think I may go
for a sewing the seams down with running stich.

My only worry is that this will still allow the fabric to fray.  I suppose
if the tunic is never washed.  authentic but possibly a bit
smelly.



On 02/12/05, Betsy Marshall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This may or may not help- I've been using a whip stitch shaped
like a Z- diagonal as it goes from stitch to stitch, but
parallel/perpendicular to the warp/weft in the stitch itself- catching
only
1 or 2 threads on the visible side; and if the sewing thread is close to
the
fabric color it virtually disappears.-maybe an indentation due to thread
tension, but that will likely ease out in the next wash.
HTH Betsy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Caroline
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2005 11:40 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] Seam finishing on wool

I have just finished the long seams on a new 10th/11th century woollen
tunic
for my husband.  In the past  I would now switch on the zig zag and do the
bits that are likely to fray with that. I've only ever hand sewn hems
before
(what the public can't see etc)   However,  I have just spent a month
doing
run and fell seams on a linen tunic and it would be nice to finish the
woolly one also by hand.

I have had a look at the York and London stiches and the main option seems
to be to flatten the seam and put a running or whip stich up the seam
allowance.  The running version would I think leave two parallel lines on
the front of the garment (either side of the seam) and the whip stich
might
leave a series of diagonal lines on the front.

Does anyone have any other techniques they know about or have tried.  I
don't think run and fell is particularly aproproate the seam would
probably
be rather bulky.
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[h-cost] Museum of London gable

2005-11-26 Thread Jean Waddie

Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

At 18:20 25/11/2005, you wrote:
The Museum of London's website has a press pack in PDF which has 
many, many pictures of some of the things -- including larger versions 
the mitten and the sock.  Also background info -- well, it goes on and 
on. Anyone interested in things from around 500 - 1500 should download 
and read the PDF, really.


Go here: 
http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/MOLsite/gallery/medieval/pages/c_closu

re.asp



I don't think I need to take photos next week - that is a great series 
of pictures. The Press pack I was sent was nowhere near that 
informative. My colleague Annie the Pedlar is one of the craftspeople, 
and that is the wretched gable hood that caused me such grief!!


Suzi


It looks great, Suzi!  May I ask, what solution did you decide on for 
the inside front section - did you do it as a padded roll or flat 
fabric?


Jean
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Re: [h-cost] Apparently the 1990's are Now Considered Period Costume

2005-11-24 Thread Jean Waddie
Ooh yeah!  Let's start complaining about anachronistic low-rise jeans 
!


Jean


Karen R Bergquist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

http://www.nytimes.com/2005/11/20/magazine/20style_90s.html#articleBodyLi
nk
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Re: [h-cost] the latest Pride and Prejudice movie

2005-11-20 Thread Jean Waddie

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote


In a message dated 11/19/2005 11:03:33 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

even if  you've heard bad things about it.

The main commentary I hear about it is it has more of a Wuthering Heights
feel...y'know, more romantic than classicalmore Bronte than  Austin. But
that's OK really. There's room for that. And now we have this  one AND 
the Colin

Firth one, so no harm done.


There is a point, when Lizzie is in Derbyshire with her aunt and uncle, 
where she stands on a hilltop with her skirt blowing out behind her - I 
leaned over to the friend I was with and asked Is that the definition 
of wuthering?


Jean

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Re: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice

2005-11-07 Thread Jean Waddie
The bodice is not a fantasy, since we have a government press release 
saying it has been held back from export (I don't believe everything the 
government tells us, but I don't think press officers make things up 
that are so far from the headlines).  Since the owner is not identified, 
I would guess it is from a private collection and may never have been 
displayed or referenced.  The picselect site seems to belong to the 
Press Association, so maybe they just put pictures up for a short time 
while they are current.


Jean


Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Re this bodice that may (or not be 17th C...)


I just entered the picselect site that someone reports as a visual source
for look-see and also did not see a reference for the picture we are
interested in.  Since this seems to be a film outlet, my suspicion is that
this bodice is someone's fantasy.  I too have never seen bugles' and
'feathers' as a design feature for this period.

Kathleen

- Original Message -
From: Max Callahan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2005 2:34 AM
Subject: [h-cost] 17th century beaded bodice



Hello all!
   I usually just lurk and love reading the posts, but came across
   an item I figured one of you knowledgable persons might know
   more about. I found an article on the net ...

  http://tinyurl.com/brxjg
-or-   http://www.culture.gov.uk/global/press_notices/
archive_2004/dcms136_04.htm ...

   It talks about a pink satin bodice (c1640-1650) with a surface design
   of bugle beads worked into sprays of overlapping feathers. This
   sounded fascinating as there are so few examples of clothing
   from this time, but I can't find any more information, much less
   pictures of it. It's English, and the British arts minister placed a
   temporary export bar on it at the time. There is contact #s at the
bottom
   of the page for inquiries, but I have yet to want to call long
distance and
   I guess if no one here knows anything I could email them to see if
they
   have updated info...
Hopefully, one of the links will work!
Thanks for any help,
Debbie Callahan :)
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Re: [h-cost] English Gable Hoods

2005-10-21 Thread Jean Waddie

Suzi,

Are you looking for detail, or just any images? (to prove it wasn't just 
a figment of Holbein's imagination?)  The Visual History of Costume, 
16th century, has three church brasses, also the portrait of Elizabeth 
of York.


Elizabeth of York's effigy in Westminster Abbey.
Tournament roll from the birth of Prince Henry, 1511 (he died at 8 
weeks), shows all Catherine of Aragon's ladies in waiting in gable 
hoods, with a squared off back section and no back drape.  (Owned by the 
College of Arms, London)

Portrait medal of Anne Boleyn, 1534 (British Museum)

These three from the illustrated version of Antonia Fraser's The Six 
Wives of Henry VIII, Weidenfeld  Nicholson 1996, 029783567X


And a Lucas Hornebolte miniature of Catherine of Aragon (in the 
collection of the Duke of Buccleuch) - Sisters to the King by Maria 
Perry, Andre Deutsch, 1998, 0233990046



Jean



Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote


As I am fighting a losing battle with a gable hood I am making for a 
museum (for members of the public to try on, so all the bits have to be 
sewn together - eurk!) I have been looking for as many images of gable 
hoods as I can find. Curiously I have only found drawings and paintings 
by Holbein, apart from the Margaret of Beaufort (I think - early) one.


Does anyone have other references? To save time, I already have the 
following sites as reference.


  * http://costume.dm.net/headwear/gable1.htmlThe English Gable Hood
  * http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/gable.htmlTudor Gable 
Headdress: A Portfolio of Images
  * http://www.montgomerie.demon.co.uk/enghood1.htmlAn English Hood: 
Step-by-step Instructions
  * http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/englishhood.htmlMaking an English 
or Gable Hood

  * http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/englishhood.htmlAn English Hood Pattern
  * http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/tudor/gableinst.htmlTudor Gable 
Headdress Illustrated: Step by Step Directions


Suzi (who needs about 5 hands!) 
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Re: [h-cost] Re:was 14 yds of wool, is weathein in Eng

2005-10-17 Thread Jean Waddie
Random interesting fact:  There are still the same number of sheep per 
person in Britain as there were in the 15th century.  Just that now, a 
lot fewer people spend their time looking after the sheep.


Ever since I learned that I've wondered where I can go to claim my 
sheep. I think it's about 6 each, IIRC.


Jean


Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Tell me about the UK and wool.  All the sheep we passed on the way to 
Litchfield  (We actually slept quite near a place called Yarnfield) 
should have been a clue.


We were there in the beginning of September.  The first few days were 
(unseasonalbly) warm to hot.  Then it cooled off to what the weather 
usually was.  Luckily I had brough some of my wool things.  They are 
usually WAAY too hot to wear down here in North Carolina and Virginia, 
except for maybe January or February.  Wool petticoats and jackets and 
were JUSTt the thing .  The wool repelled the rain that we had one day, 
and although we were soaked, it really didn't bother us.  The logic of 
the clothing system dawned on me .


Even the men in ca. 1770's regimental weren't too bothered.  They were 
soaked and heavy, but not uncomfortable and cold.


18 cent. Mia in too hot old Charlotte,
Distaff with HM 64th of foot, from the grand Stafford, and back there 
for their regimental reunion at the celebration of 300th anniversary of 
the founding of the regimmment.  They blessed our flags on the silver 
drums and everything.





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Re: [h-cost] OT-Dying in a front end loader...?

2005-10-12 Thread Jean Waddie
Front-loaders are standard in the UK, therefore Dylon machine dye is 
made to work in them.  I do this all the time, never had any trouble.


Jean


Elizabeth Young [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote
Yep, done it in a Kenmore high-capacity front loader with linen using 
Dylon machine dye from the UK.

Worked great.

liz young

WickedFrau wrote:
Anyone have any experience with this?  My top loader washing machine 
is  about to croak.  I live in the desert and would like to go with a 
more  water efficient machine.  Some have suggested just keeping my 
old one  for dying, but that will only last for so long.

 Sg
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[h-cost] Tippets / wimples

2005-10-10 Thread Jean Waddie
I recently had to straighten out a confusion, because Early Medieval 
(Viking/Saxon/Norman) re-enactors generally use the word wimple for a 
single piece headcovering that wraps and drapes round head and 
shoulders, while 14th/15th century types use it for the specific item 
covering the neck, worn with a separate veil.  Someone asked for 
instructions for one, and got instructions for the other, which made no 
sense to them at all!


Jean


Sue Clemenger [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

I've run into something similar, recently, with a current re-using of the
word wimple to describe a knitted thing ranging from a simple, oversized
tube that functions a bit like the turtlenecked part on a turtleneck sweater
(except that you can pull it up over your head, leaving your face exposed,
for warmth), or a hooded cowl, built similarly to a medieval hood with cowl
(although missing the liripipe).  It always causes this momentary huh?
with me, because I'm most familiar with the word as used to refer to the
woven/linen medieval women's item frequently paired with a veil. ;o)
--sue

- Original Message -
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, October 10, 2005 4:22 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Tippets




I have found very little info so far on tippets and how they were made.

I have encountered things called tippets in several different centuries.

I

had to read a couple of sentences to realize you were talking SCA-period
tippets, instead of, say, Georgian ones.

CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
  www.FunStuft.com

   \\\
 -@@\\\
   7 )))
 (((   
)   ((
   /\   /---\))



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Re: [h-cost] Re: playing in period societies?

2005-09-27 Thread Jean Waddie
The SCA in general does not do period fighting techniques, they have 
their own style of fighting which has developed from what the society 
chose as safety precautions (rattan weapons, full armour).  You might 
find some individuals in some areas exploring the old manuals, but that 
is not mainstream for the SCA.  There is also SCA fencing, but I'm not 
sure where that lies between period techniques and modern sport fencing.


Jean


A. Thurman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

It might also be worthwhile to look at historic martial arts
(http://www.thehaca.com/, www.mashs.org and similar) for people
interested in period play. I know the SCA does some of this but I
don't know how invested they are in true period fighting techniques -
I fence with MASHS and their devotion to the old manuals can be as
fervent as some of the h-costume memberships adherence to primary
costume sources. And they've got to have *something* to fence in!

Allison T.

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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 20:57:14 -0700
From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: playing in period societies? Re: [h-cost] why
renaissance...
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

English country dance is an even better place to meet people with
historical interests. There are many branches of the Country Dance and
Song Society in the US.  Their website is:

http://www.cdss.org/

Despite being a historically inauthentic revival, English country dance
is easy, fun, full of friendly people, and many places have excellent
live musicians playing.  I think the SCA uses English country dance a
lot at gatherings, not because it's really authentic but because
everyone can do it. So do baroque and Regency gatherings where people
don't know authentic steps.  And a fair number of people who do English
country dance also do other folk dance forms, especially contra dance,
Irish country dance, Scottish country dance (their society's URL is
http://www.rscds.org/), and Morris dance.  And, a fair number of people
who are interested in one or more of these dance forms, are interested
in historic dance (especially Victorian) or can become interested in it
if they hear about an event. All these dance groups are open to having
flyers for other dances deposited on tables somewhere near the entrance,
put there for exactly that purpose.  Everyone does it, there are usually
piles of them.

Many people do several of the (related) dance forms above, so local
groups try to pick different regular nights and not to hold big special
workshops on the same day. It's not because they feel threatened
(especially since the organizers are often the same for more than one
group).  Quite the reverse, it's because they know a lot of dancers want
to go to everything in the area and don't want to deprive anyone.  (I
should add, though, that Morris dance is a performance dance. You can
attend open try this dance intro workshops, and many groups welcome
beginner members;  but regular rehearsals are usually not open for
people to drop in.)

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com



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Re: [h-cost] Current day fashion magazines

2005-09-24 Thread Jean Waddie
None!  If I'm travelling by train or plane I get Marie-Claire or Red, 
and I get really fed up of reading the good articles at the front, and 
then having to pay for, and lug around, all the 
fashion/make-up/food/interiors/travel which doesn't interest me at all. 
Wish you could just buy it in sections.


Jean



In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], Penny Ladnier 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes

What current day fashion magazines do you all read?

Penny E. Ladnier
Owner,
The Costume Gallery, www.costumegallery.com
Costume Classroom, www.costumeclassroom.com
Costume Research Library, www.costumelibrary.com
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Re: [h-cost] why renaissance and not 18th century?

2005-09-23 Thread Jean Waddie

Not exactly answering the question that was asked but...

I find it interesting what people choose to portray in different 
countries.  In the UK, most people do something linked with where they 
are, or where they grew up, or perhaps a more distant family link.  But 
the Americans and Australians I have met are more prepared to portray 
history from somewhere else entirely, doing Byzantine and Bulgarian 
medieval and all sorts.  It seems that, because they don't have the 
[European] history of that time in their own country, they feel more 
free to just pick something they fancy.


Jean


Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Sorry sorry folks, drinks on me!

I ment why so much renaissance fairs and renaissance reenactors and not 
so many 18th century?
- Original Message - From: Bjarne og Leif Drews 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 4:06 PM
Subject: [h-cost] why renaissance and not 18th century?




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Re: [h-cost] Clothing superstitions (and theatre)

2005-09-14 Thread Jean Waddie

Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

At 16:23 14/09/2005, you wrote:

Even worse luck to iron something on a live body, and the thread
between the teeth doesn't help there.


ahhh...so *that* is why the instructions that come with an iron 
actually specify Do Not Attempt to Iron Garments While Being Worn!


Silly me, I thought it was common sense safety...



And another one . If you put on a garment inside out (usually a 
vest/t-shirt, or knickers/underpants) you shouldn't change it, as that 
too would be bad luck. Too bad if it was trousers or pants!!


Suzi

I'd forgotten that one, but yes, I grew up with that.  Have to hope you 
notice before you get it completely on, it's OK if you're only half-way 
into the garment.


Jean

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Re: Subject: Re: [h-cost] fiber arts and making vs buying clothes

2005-09-05 Thread Jean Waddie
Thanks Debs.  I was about to say, maybe it's a difference between US and 
UK - there is so much less sewing done here overall.  I still boggle at 
the memory of finding fabric by the yard in WalMart in Connecticut! 
Adapting and decorating I can believe, making accessories from scratch, 
but for most people actual dressmaking is so ... girly!


Jean


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote

Never was a goth myself, but had  lots of goth friends (and still have a
few!).  Most of them wouldn't be caught dead making their own clothes - 
adapting

maybe, but not actually making.

There was a healthy band of good cheap 'alternative' clothing shops in
Newcastle and the surrounding area, and a few in Leeds, near where I went to
college.

That said I always made my own clothes - and occasionally bits for friends -
largely cos I couldn't afford to buy new clothes.

Adapting stuff from charity shops was always popular though!

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