Re: [h-cost] question about antique academic regalia
On 9/11/2012 3:43 PM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: And not just any dry cleaner. See if there is a boutique cleaner in your area--one who will treat it carefully and not just throw it into a machine. I would probably have to drive to Atlanta of Tallahassee for that. Macon might have something -- but it would be worth it! Thanks! Susan -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question about antique academic regalia
On 9/11/2012 4:48 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote: Call your local museum to see who they recommend for needlework and antique/bridal garments that don't need the full conservation treatment. They usually have a list of preferred local cleaners. Chain cleaners aren't a good place to go in my experience. nods. Another good idea! annbw...@aol.com 9/11/12 12:43 PM And not just any dry cleaner. See if there is a boutique cleaner in your area--one who will treat it carefully and not just throw it into a machine. Thanks! Susan -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question about antique academic regalia
On 9/11/2012 5:54 PM, Ginni Morgan wrote: Also, try calling around to needlework and knitting shops. They keep lists of good cleaners capable of handling antique silk, as well. If you have an independent professional seamstress or tailor in the area, ask them, too. Same reasons, although not necessarily for the antique stuff, just for really good silk and wool. The big problem right now, is that I live in the middle of nowhere, south Georgia! *sigh* But that's a good tip, too. Thanks! Susan -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question about antique academic regalia
On 9/11/2012 9:28 PM, marlowp...@gmail.com wrote: You indicated you were near Tallahassee in an earlier post. FSU has a small historic costume collection in the school of Clothing and Textiles. I imagine you might be able to get some help there. good to know. Im about 2 hours NE of Tallahassee! I'll look them up. thanks! Susan (THL Jerusha Kilgore) -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.abac.edu/sfarmer http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] SPAMMERS ON HCOSTUME
On 10/5/2011 10:51 AM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: I'm on a small List that isn't listed anywhere except where we choose it to be (very limited exposure). It has remained spam-free for years. By letting Yahoo list a list, it automagically inherits a certain amount of spam. Every closed list that I moderate on yahoo has been hit with spam this year by folks having their email accounts hacked -- and they've not all been yahoo addresses either. It can happen in the best of families. Susan -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress
On 7/25/2011 1:02 PM, Melanie Schuessler wrote: Mine are lightweight wool lined with habotai silk, and they're usually quite comfortable here in Michigan. I want to make the period set out of a lightweight wool. I don't think that would be a problem even in south Georgia! Susan -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress
On 7/25/2011 1:02 PM, Melanie Schuessler wrote: Mine are lightweight wool lined with habotai silk, and they're usually quite comfortable here in Michigan. Melanie, what did you use for your velvet trim? I'm wondering about cannabalizing my plastic robe for it . Susan -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Academic Dress
On 7/25/2011 2:59 PM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote: My consort and I made our best interpretation of both scholar's robes and master's robes for our elevation (SCA) back in January. Academic dress and clerical dress start out as pretty much the same thing and then there is a bit of a divergence--you start seeing physicians and other learned people who are not practicing clerics wearing gowns that are different than what clerical types (bishops, etc.) are wearing, and the academic robes change quite a bit over time. http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=midIllID=40339 is Doctrina from the Omne Bonum, BL Royal 6 E VI vol2 f. 541, wearing what we're pretty sure is a cappa clausa. c. 1360-1375 http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=midIllID=21457 is a university doctor/physician from Harley 3140 f. 32v, 1st quarter 14th c. That's pretty much what our master's robes look like--red wool with the overlong sleeves. Our scholar's robes are dark green with shorter, fingertip-length sleeves. http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=midIllID=23830 has a cleric and a lawyer, wearing a garment which I don't remember the name of. http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=midIllID=32907 has two scholarly types, at least one of them is a lawyer. I think we have a written bibliography, but he's got custody of it. I'll have to ask him again for a copy. Thanks! A bibliography would be awesome. I've gotten some good hints already. Susan/ jerusha -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] History of Costume text?
On 3/10/2011 3:37 PM, Kathryn Pinner wrote: The powers that be at my community college (where I am a theatrical costume and set designer) have decided to start a Fashion Design and Merchandizing program (the push seems to be from the merchandizing/businesss side) and they are expecting me to teach the history of costume, basic sewing, and textiles. They seem to be leaning toward using books from Pearson and the the text for costume history they are looking at is 'History of World Costume and Fashion' by Daniel Delis Hill. Anyone know this text and have a comment? (I suggested 'Survey of Historic Costume' by Tortora Eubanks -- don't know if they will listen to me). Other texts they are looking at are 'The Sewing Book' by Alison Smith and 'Textiles' by Kadolph. Any comments? I've actually got a desk copy of Kadolph coming -- and I like the swatch kit that they can get with it. I didn't know that there was a costume book too, or I would have had my Pearson Rep send me a copy of that one too. I 3 my Pearson rep! Susan (who teaches biology!) -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Renaissance Dress in Italy
On 10/7/2010 11:27 PM, Charlene Charette wrote: Good grief. This is the highest price I've seen so far. And for ex-library, at that. But they'll generously donate £0.25 to charity. Bah! http://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=3510504977cm_ven=nlcm_cat=trgcm_pla=wantcm_ite=viewbook --Charlene I actually saw one for $5K -- but that was about 6 years ago. Most of them in the last 3 or 4 years have been much more reasonably priced. -- Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Yet Another One
Sorry if this one has been discussed, but I jsut found out about it yesterday on the Thistle Threads blog http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1851776311/ref=oss_product Susan/jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Herald's Renaissance Dress in Italy
Quoting sunshine.k.buch...@kp.org: *blush* should've checked on the spelling of Birbari's name, thank you for the correction! I like her for a couple reasons, although you are right; she is limited. I appreciate the time she spends analyzing styles (like the sheer overdress) that in the survey books are glossed over in favor of the more standard Italian Renaissance look. From a purely academic standpoint I admire the time she takes to argue that you _can_ use Italian paintings c. 1460-80 as an accurate portrayal of construction. While with Van der Wyden and the northern painters that seems like an obvious statement, for the Italian style I thought it was an assumption worth questioning. Best of luck acquiring a copy! Thanks! That is a very good point about Birbari. And I got a good hint there on how to do the sleeves in the Cossa paintings (those things that looks sorta like leg-o-mutton sleeves). susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Herald's Renaissance Dress in Italy
Quoting Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net: Charlene Charette wrote: And the last couple of copies I've found were in the US$2000+ range. OK, I know it's a good book. Is it really *that* good a book? Is there that much in there that isn't anywhere else? Robin, so far as I know, it's the *only* book . Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Herald's Renaissance Dress in Italy
Quoting sunshine.k.buch...@kp.org: Charlene Charette wrote: And the last couple of copies I've found were in the US$2000+ range. OK, I know it's a good book. Is it really *that* good a book? Is there that much in there that isn't anywhere else? No, imo it's not worth $2000. However, I'm very happy with the $200 I spent on my copy (years ago, now...) It does go though a number of Italian inventories circa 1480 (assuming my memory is correct, I don't have my copy to-hand at the moment) which I haven't seen discussed elsewhere in English. IMO it's a really good complement to Bernini's _Dress in Italian Painting_ which analyzes circa 1460-80s art with an eye construction; _Renaissance Dress in Italy_ analyzes what was worn by comparing art to inventories. The name _Renaissance Dress in Italy_ is a bit broader then what it covers - it doesn't spend much time on Venetian fashions, and mostly talks about pre-1500 styles. I do like the picture-time it gives to the early 1400s styles and the transition from houpelandes to the more classic Italian Renaissance styles. That's my 2 cents, for what it's worth :-) nods. Much better analysis than mine! I do have to say, that I've never been impressed with Birbari (you've got it listed as Bernini) which IMO is very limited in scope. When I can find a copy of Herald that I can afford, I will own one. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Jacket
Quoting Sharon Nevin sharon.ne...@gmail.com: I just thought to check the back of the annual after hitting send. The article of Embroidery in Britain is extracted from the longer text that appeared in Donald King and Santina Levey, The Victoria Albert Museum's Textile collection: Embroidery in Britain from 1200 to 1750, London 1993 Given that the article in the Hali Annual is only 11 pages, longer text might be an understatement. The book may or may not have more shots. It doesn't. :-( Just the one picture. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] satire paper on baggy pants
Somebody out there wrote a wonderful satire on Mall Crawler Baggies -- it was written as it it were a paper presented at Kalamazoo 2450 or something like that. Anyway, I can't find it any more! Does anybody happen to know what that URL is? Thanks, Susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] satire paper on baggy pants
Quoting Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net: Susan Farmer wrote: Somebody out there wrote a wonderful satire on Mall Crawler Baggies -- it was written as it it were a paper presented at Kalamazoo 2450 or something like that. Anyway, I can't find it any more! Does anybody happen to know what that URL is? http://www.elizabethancostume.net/superwides.htm Thanks! I knew that somebody would know! Susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Fwd: Standardized Clothing Sizes
- Forwarded message from kingsta...@comcast.net - I have a question forwarded to me by someone that studies the 19th century and the American Civil War. The question involves the production of clothing, and the use of standardized clothing sizes. The assumption is that the Union Army was the first mass producer of 'sized' clothing to allow for the distribution of uniforms to new recruits. Evidently a survey of recruits was done, and orders for uniforms were based on averages, so a bundle of 100 uniforms sent to a unit would have so many jackets sized for a 38 inch chest, so many for a 40, 42, etc. With the advent of the industrial revolution, manufacture of standardized sizes in clothing became possible. So, the question is: Was there any evidence prior to the American Civil War and the Union Army's survey of recruits for the manufacture of standardized sized clothing? If someone is on the SCA Costumer's egroup, could you pass this question along? Many thanks, Christianna - End forwarded message - Susan/ Jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Embroidered Jacket
Sorry for the cross-post, but ... The VA has an embroidered Jacket (Accession 919-1873) http://collections.vam.ac.uk/objectid/O80226 There's a picture of *part* of the embroidery in King Levey -- and the front of the jacket and the side seam are up on the VA website (referenced above). Does anybody have a picture of the *back* of the jacket? I'm trying to get a feel for the pattern, the snippet in King Levey isn't big enough -- and the front, is ... well, the front! Thanks! Susan/jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidered Jacket
Quoting Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com: The front does show a repeat of the motif--the double acorn spiral on the mannequin's left by the neckline, also shows up above the hem, and in partial side-view, under the armscye seam on the front again. And also on the mannequin's left, sans the side-front motif which is hidden by the curve of the body, if it's there at all. The colors change relative positions in motif repetitions. If you are looking for the cut of the jacket, then this whole digression is not of much use. I'm looking for a good clear image of the embroidery rather than the cut. It looks an awful lot like what we called hatching jackets when I was a kid. In period terms -- a mini ropa cut would probably do it. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
Quoting Cin cinbar...@gmail.com: It's that time of year! We're planning for holiday parties, fall winter balls, company dinners, New Years Eve, cocktail parties,12th Night and theater season. You might even be planning a sojourn to a balmy tropical locale. Whatever the reason, h-costumers are probably making something. So, what's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today? right now, my very heavy cloak -- I've got to get a wooden Suit Hanger (tm) for it. (Wool, interlined in thinsulate [why yes, I do freeze at the drop of a hat], and lined in rain-coat twill. --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com PS. It's ok to run into the sewing room, toss something spiffy on the dummy and *then* tell us about it. It's also ok to tell what's on your worktable, at the sewing machine or in the embroidery hoop. on the drawing board? A couple of Viking aprons (and tunics to go with them) and an embroidered Elizabethan Coif. Susan/ jerusha/ FlorentineScot (on LJ) - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ http://florentinescot.livejournal.com http://www.facebook.com/susan.b.farmer ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Curtain tape as costume supply item?
Quoting Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com: Hi, I'm trying to figure out if some shirring tape, from my stash, would be useable for costuming. It is about 7/8 wide, with a single cord about 1/4 from one edge. When pulled, the cord forms a consistent gather, not any sort of pleat or smocked effect. Does anyone use shirring tape in costuming? If so, how? Easiest way to gather a skirt ever! jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Laudonia in color WAS: Primary source forElizabethan pillbox hats sought
Quoting Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com: Supersizing the image shows great detail, like the edges of the sleeve slits. Wonderful! I learned when I was scanning embroidery photographs that there's a whole lot of detail in those pictures that your eye can't see (which is, of course, the basis behind how the JPG format works) that *is* visible when you scan it at 300 dpi and look at it on your monitor. It really looks like my grandmothers braided bun under those pearls and cabachons! jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] headwear in general
while we're talking about hats I am decidedly milinnarily challenged. What are your favorite resources (particularly for pre-1650-ish) headwear? (Some of you may have addressed that issue on my LiveJournal, but feel free to weigh in again) Susan/ jerusha/ FlorentineScot - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] headwear in general
Quoting Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net: Do you mean resources for research? Resources for finding materials? Resources for purchasing finished headwear? Sorry, that was pretty vague, wasn't it. I blame teaching an entire semester in 4 weeks. Resources for research. I don't have a very good clue as to what was appropriate when. (if that makes any sense!) Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] headwear in general
Quoting Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com: This is why I like redrawing books like Wilcox, to help get an idea of what was available during any given time period as an overview. From there, I can then dig into the images of the time period in question, hunting for whatever specific style I want, as many images as I can find, to better get the real details of whatever it is I am going for. As to actual resources... there are too many for me to count, since I go with portrait pieces, other images of the time, and illuminations. It can take awhile to collect what you need. Depending on the time period, I can offer some suggested art sites, or collection sites where others have done the collecting of images already. My favorite is also collecting history and image books in general, since they offer many images of the time period. But that can be iffy when they toss in Victorian woodcuts as often as they do contemporary images, and older ones don't tell you much about the image other than maybe a name, some of which has since been switched to someone else. Not helping much, sorry. Kimiko, I think that's very helpful. I am thinking of Wilcox -- I've looked at a lot of paintings, and I can recognize a great many of them from the redrawings. And I really like the idea of a broad overview. You've got to train your eyes in a lot of ways before you can start using paintings. Clothes, I think I've got a good handle on, but not so much headwear. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Laudonia in color WAS: Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Quoting Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org: I had asked Lynn McMasters and she says that it is based off an Italian portrait. http://lynnmcmasters.com/LadyM.html in color and a wee bit larger. http://tinyurl.com/yt6hg9 Some lurking! Thanks to those folks who tried to make me feel better about clunky, non-visual writing problems -- apparently your kind reassurances worked G. DISCLAIMER: The following is not meant to rant or peck at anyone, just a statement of our opinions and interpretations. We went hunting for a color version too, without having checked all of otsisto's links! Bad! Anyway, we found another(?) color version of the original BW Laudonia portrait with more information about the painting, here http://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laudomia_de%27_Medici. This is an Italian wiki page for Laudomia de Medici, note the spelling of the first name: an M not an N as in the caption on Lynn's page (which was probably a typo from where she found the BW, or something about transfering the name from Italian to French or whatever the original language of the BW source page was). OPINION: TO OUR EYES, ON OUR COMPUTER SCREENS, (especially when you enlarge the Italian Wiki picture) it appears from all color versions that the body of the dress is black, but the hair is lighter, reddish, both in front of the solid line of pearls and beyond the pearls. It looks to us like what is behind the solid pearl line is also the reddish of the hair color. Not that you can trust scans for this sort of thing; we've found paintings in multiple versions with wildly varying color values! This painting is also in Moda a Firenze and it's attributed to Bronzino Workshop and titled Isabella d'Medici. And as much as I'd love for this to be a pillbox, I have to agree. It looks like braids under a pearl and cabachon bun-cover. I uploaded my scan here -- it's Figure 93 for those of you following along with your books. You should be able to keep clicking until you get to the Giant Copy. http://pics.livejournal.com/florentinescot/pic/0008ftdt/ Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] headwear in general
Quoting Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net: On Jul 5, 2009, at 7:25 PM, Susan Farmer wrote: Sorry, that was pretty vague, wasn't it. I blame teaching an entire semester in 4 weeks. Resources for research. I don't have a very good clue as to what was appropriate when. (if that makes any sense!) It depends on your ultimate goal. If you're doing theatre costuming, and the general look is more important than historical accuracy, than redrawn overview books like Wilcox's will probably get you everything you need. For anything where more accuracy is desirable, I think it's better to go straight to images from the period in question. There are plenty of overviews of clothing history that can get you started (Boucher, Davenport, Payne), and from there you can delve into more and more specific imagery. As Kimiko points out, many times there are websites that already have a collection of images from the time and place you're researching. If you're having trouble with a specific period, odds are that someone on this list can advise you on where to look. I've never seen a single resource with images of headwear from every period aside from the (rather problematic) Wilcox one, so I'm afraid there's not a single answer. Thanks. Im working with more of an eye towards authenticity than theater, but right now, I just want it to *look* right! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Quoting Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net: to support it in that shape. If a caul were worn over coiled braids as shown in this image, it would take the standing shape. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/2492974905_5baa3f7fe2_o.jpg ROTFLOL! I love this picture! jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Quoting Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net: :) Try to ignore the modern interpolation in the background! oh, but that makes it fun! :-D It's perfect for the book. There's about 3 or 4 different versions of that painting by several different painters, too. Susan http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3289/2492974905_5baa3f7fe2_o.jpg ROTFLOL! I love this picture! - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Primary source for Elizabethan pillbox hats sought
Quoting Melanie Schuessler mela...@faucet.net: On Jun 26, 2009, at 6:23 PM, Helen Pinto wrote: The thing that struck me about this portrait is that it is the first one I've ever seen that didn't look like some kind of padded roll or twisted/braided arrangement. It has an edge and structure to it, Yes. See also: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c1/Elizabeth_I_Steven_Van_Der_Meulen_detail.jpg [full painting at http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fc/Elizabeth_I_Steven_Van_Der_Meulen.jpg] and http://www.luminarium.org/renlit/elizavandermeulen1.jpg I have a couple of others that I will send privately, as I can't find them online. Melanie, could you post the titles/artists of those paintings? We might be able to find some of them in our print resources! Thanks, Susan/jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] late Elizabethan headdress
On May 27, 2009, at 2:59 AM, Sharon Collier wrote: Thank you. Very interesting. Looks like what I want is a caul with a decorated billiment. Does that sound like what they were wearing in 1570's? Have you looked here yet? http://www.extremecostuming.com/articles/howtowearthecoif.html http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/vacoift281975.html I suspect that this is what you want. jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation
Quoting Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com: I've got at least two more parts of this, one on workmanship and another on presentation. With all the help I got when I was a complete newbie, it's at least time I gave some back. I can't wait to see the rest of it -- I've already printed the first part out. susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation
Quoting Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com: I'm not the ultimate right answer, and the exact rules change slightly with every masquerade. But I'll be spending time on those other parts tonight. It looks to me like it would be useful in all areas of competition -- not just the Costume Con Msquerade. Is it always the same weekend every year? Maybe one of these years I'll get to go! Susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about documentation
Quoting Käthe Barrows kay...@gmail.com: It looks to me like it would be useful in all areas of competition -- not just the Costume Con Msquerade. I've done a little F/SF judging and I agree. The F/SF masquerade often requires research, always requires presentation, and sometimes also has a workmanship judge. Is it always the same weekend every year? Nope. Maybe one of these years I'll get to go! I only went last year because it was local to me, and this year because I did a world-class job of finagling my finances. I hadn't been to one before that since my 25-year-old was 7. I've never been -- but just reading all the journal entries makes me want to go! :-) Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Academic Sleeves
Quoting Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.com: Does anyone know anything about this kind of decoration? Is it based on an old tradition? How far back is such embroidery found, (somehow it looked Victorian)? Does the pattern vary with the university, or the type of degree, or the individual's preference? Since none of the previous messages, nor the 'Tailor and Pattern Cutter' pages, mention any embroidery or sleeve decoration - perhaps it is unique to Oxford? Tailor and Pattern cutter pages? Did I miss something? Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.com: Susan Farmer wrote: Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (snip) This link takes you to an advertisement for a new little book on the academic dress of Oxford University:- http://www.ox.ac.uk/media/news_stories/2009/090403.html There is a description of the development of the women's 'floppy hat', a little about colours, and some useful photographs. [If you haven't time to read the page, at least scroll down to the end and enjoy the photo of Daniel Barenboim in his regalia!] Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting annbw...@aol.com: In a message dated 4/17/2009 9:30:36 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu writes: My husband's favorite tale is one of showing up at the stated bookstore to sing up for the rental gown at xxxfee and the salesman took him aside and said I don't want to disuade you from getting a new one, but if you step over here, you might change your mind. I asked about ordering a real gown instead of the crappy one, and was told they were special order and had to be ordered further in advance than the time remaining before commencement. It does seem there were be a market for used ones, though. But more important than that ... The Crappy Gown ran me about $80 in 2007. A *real* gown was going to be about $800 ... IIRC, that was on sale . Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Academic robes and hoods links
Quoting Joan Mielke joan.mielke.y...@comcast.net: Greetings! This blog covers the adventures of a seamstress making her own academic robe! http://sewingtodistraction.blogspot.com/search/label/academic%20regalia I love that blog! While I was fishing around the internet looking for the aforementioned blog, I found this link which appears to have more information about academic regalia than I had imagined existed. http://www.burgon.org.uk/design/makers/index.php FWIW, my experience with wearing a wool academic gown in June in humid New York, was that it was actually ok and definitely better than any synthetic. Thanks! I hadn't seen the second site before. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: Yes, the hat I described is the floppy one...and now seems to be the major style of Phds at WJ, Pa. After reading some of the other replies, it would appear that the color scheme is not totally understood. Math and all of the other disciplines have a traditional color so that if you are watching a 'parade', you can identify what department the wearer represents. The other color identifies what Institution the degree was gained. The style of the hood itself identifies the Degree of higher learning. Thus, ubless every one went to the same university the colors will make their own honorific statement. It's my understanding that the Color Scheme only applies to hoods. The velvet is the color of the discipline -- the color(s) of the satin are the colors of the institution. The velvet bands on the front of the gown and the sleeves c either be the discipline colors, trimmed in the discipline colors, or Your Basic Black. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Susan Carroll-Clark scarrollcl...@gmail.com: Susan Farmer wrote: Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com: I've read everyone's helpful replies to this, but what I'd say is: Go ahead and make 13th-century garb and wear it. There is a pattern in Alcega for a gown for a learned man -- but what would a 12th century gown look like? From what I understand, the 12th-13th century version of a scholar's gown--the cappa clausa -- looked more or less like a long hooded poncho with a slit in front for the hands. How cool is that! susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Has anybody ever run across a pattern for contemporary Academic Hoods (which if you believe the line that the college uses are unchanged since the 13th century -- I'm gonna make me 13th century academic garb if I can figure out what it is -- just because!)? I want to make me a gown out of either linen or tropical weight wool -- wearing a black plastic bag in south Georgia in the summer is not my idea of fun! And I got curious as to hood patterns. Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting annbw...@aol.com: I had planned to make my own garb, but then got out of academia, so never did.? I was going to borrow a friend's hood fto make?the pattern.? I think some of the minister/choir robe patterns on the market are good for the robe.? They used to sell pleating tape that would make the little cartridge pleats, and I was going to use that to get the proper pleating.? Silk would probably be more authentic than linen or wool, but linen would be more comfortable, for sure, and wool wouldn't wrinkle like linen, which would probably be a total mess by the end of the ceremony.? Also, it seems to me most linens are not deep, dark, black. nods. I noticed today that most of the gowns are the regular choir-robe Butterick pattern type with the body of the gown just gathered onto the yoke. Only the $800+ gowns actually have cartridge pleats! Good luck! Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu: I used my husband's hood to make one for my soninlaw. Is yours to be for the MA or Phd. I would be happy to make up a pattern for you. First, research the general style (any of Academic garb sites and find out the proper colors for School and discipline to be featured. I can also send you my pattern for an Oxford don hat. You can get a wonderful gilt tassel from a present company...which I will identify from my records. Is that (the Oxford Don hat) the octagon-shaped tudor-flat-cap kinda hat? I so want one of those. My morter-board cap is just way too big on my little pin-head! I have a PhD hood, but I just would like to get the patterns for both kinds of hoods (in my observations this morning, most folks don't know how they're supposed to hang! Those MS hoods are more hood like but they're harder to make hang right.) There are more than a few folks here who have no hoods -- if I had patterns, I could whip up some hoods for the division to have as reserves. I have *no* clue how to take my hood and make a pattern from it. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] clarifier Re: possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com: I hear they're developing a send button that has a recall feature I didn't mean you shouldn't wear black; I meant you should wear whatever pleases you. Originality is not out of place in an academic procession...I hope! nods. ONe would hope! If I could match the PhD blue, in both the velvet and the wool/linen, I'd make the gown out of the Color to match the hood! (or make the gown in the Biology/botany color to go with the PhD hood!) One of the professors at UTK graduated in Europe, and their gown was a gorgeous scarlet! and it's gmail that's developing the unsend button. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Ruth Anne Baumgartner ruthan...@mindspring.com: I've read everyone's helpful replies to this, but what I'd say is: Go ahead and make 13th-century garb and wear it. There is a pattern in Alcega for a gown for a learned man -- but what would a 12th century gown look like? Susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods
Quoting Ann Catelli elvestoor...@yahoo.com: The only academic I saw with an octagonal hat (in olive velvet) as part of her regalia gradated from a university in Poland--I want to say Warsaw University, but her page on my college website does not mention the institute where she earned her PhD. It's been 25 years since I took a class from her, so I do not remember clearly. You're seeing them a lot more. The Cheap Gowns come with the standard mortar board -- the Expensive Gowns come with your choice. (at least on one of the web sites that I looked at.) susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sca fencing list?
Quoting Dawn d...@reddawn.net: Does anyone know where this might be found? I have someone who needs to talk costume/clothing/armor with someone who knows the details. It will probably depend on the kingdom. Which kingdom is your friend in? jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Books with scaled patterns (pre 1600)
Quoting Elizabeth Walpole ewalp...@grapevine.com.au: Hi everyone, I'm teaching a class next month at an SCA event on how to enlarge scaled patterns in books to full size. I was going to include a list of books relevant to SCA costumers (for those who aren't aware the SCA's time period is roughly 600 to 1600) with scaled patterns, so far I've got Patterns of Fashion 1560-1620, Period Costume for Stage and Screen (both Medieval to 1500 and 1500-1900), The Tudor Tailor, The Medieval Tailor's Assistant, and Corsets and Crinolines (although it's only got one pre 1600 scaled pattern I'm using it as an example of a patterns that are not on a grid) Is there anything I have missed? Juan de Alcega? susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Image piracy - Anyone know who this is?
Quoting Saragrace Knauf wickedf...@msn.com: Well, she did take it down! I also had sent her an email telling her to take it down and that I had reported her to Ebay. She hasn't responded to me at all. She has a different image now up - wonder if it belongs to her or not. If they're well-made bum-rolls ... probably not! I thought about emailing her and asking if I could get one of the well made ones . susan - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?
Quoting Cin cinbar...@gmail.com: It's Oscar weekend, theater season, it's almost spring. There must be something! A kirtle and ropa. I *bought* the ropa, and I want to shorten it in the front -- and I'm going to try and take the emblems off (I'm hoping that the velvet won't be ugly about it) http://florentinescot.livejournal.com/122310.html Susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer sfar...@goldsword.com Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] [HNW] Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion 4
Quoting Lisa Tyson [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Amazon UK has it on sale for 15 pounds (about $23 US ) plus shipping as part of their paperback books sale. I ordered mine today. It's a sweet deal if you can wait a few days for your order to arrive. nods. Total billed to my checking account was 36.60. :-D Hopefully it will be here tomorrow. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume Technicians Handbook -- 2nd vs 3rd ed
What's the difference(s) between the 2nd and the 3rd editions of the Costume Technicians Handbook? I know that there are *significant* differences between the 1st and the 2nd editions Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] J Arnold Vol 4 Happy Dance!
Quoting cahuff [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Wahooo! Amazon just charged me for Vol 4. It should be inn the mails today G And the best part, the pound is down so it only cost $35 American G Happy Happy happy TA Carol--now to await the mails... crosses fingers. Ive not gotten that notification yet ... but Im hoping! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Venetian gown sleeves
Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I found this painting in a search http://tinyurl.com/4np64b This is the first time I have found this type of sleeve (pink gown) pre 1500s. Has anyone seen this type of sleeve in the 1400s? I know that Memling paints it but because it is allegorical it is considered a fantasy sleeve. http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Hans_Memling_065.jpg Anyone see this kind of sleeve in any painting you have come across that is not allegorical? Fra Carnevale (1425-1484) http://www.wga.hu/bio/c/carneval/biograph.html the picture on the left is one that shows it the best http://tinyurl.com/4kye8q Here's a better picture http://flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/2046236161/ It appears to be a common sleeve in this time period. jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 7, Issue 309
Quoting Dianora di Cellini [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Just to follow up on what some others have said - you're never too old! After 25 years as a secretary, at age 46 I went back to school, got my masters, and now I'm a college professor. In the last 5 years I've earned that masters degree and I'm half way through a Ph.D. My husband lost his job a few years age and decided to give school a shot - and now he's getting ready to graduate in May at age 40. But if you choose to go to school, make sure it's something you love! Well, Dee, you've got me beat. I started Grad SChool at 40 and finished my PhD last summer at 54. :-) Jerusha/ susan (also now a college prof!) - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Thanks! I never thought of it before this morning, and now I HAVE to find out as much as possible...am gleefully gathering portraits Have you looked at Jane Stockton's embroidery page? I think that there's lots of links to blackwork stuff there. Or google for blackwork . (but then you've done that already, right?) Liadain Jussst a little OCD nah. I'm a little OCD. I wound up with a PhD because I wanted to identify my Trillium pictures! jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Haven't been much of anywhere yet, since must keep taking time out for Little Orphan Kitteh, but plan to do a lot of surfing later! L And I ain't even gonna get a degree out of all this! Conservation of Textiles .. ducking and running now, jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Question on 16th cent smocks/camiciae
Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: That would be a great job, except for maybe the Taking Clothes Off Dead People thing...G And I prolly have to go to high school before they'll let me in college, alas. Yeah, well, There's the GED and there's the credit for life kinda thing. There's all kinda of ways. As an open access institution, we can't turn anybody away with a GED. They don't have to take ACT/SAT at all. Susan, that professor person - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Itlalian Renaissance hat
Quoting Becky Rautine [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I'm trying to find a pattern or how-to make a round balloon like Italian hat, such as worn in Romeo and Juliette and THe Taming of the Shrew. It's a bel? I can't remember the term and can't seem to find a description in any painting. http://www.abcgallery.com/T/titian/titian96.html http://www.festiveattyre.com/research/secondflor/secflor29.htmlSincerely, It's called a Balzo http://www.geocities.com/curvess2000/my_balzos.htm http://www.sword.net/jessica/firenze/Early15thCenturyBalzo.pdf http://mariwashere.com/index2.php?option=com_contentdo_pdf=1id=26 http://home.earthlink.net/~lizjones429/balzo-new.htm Susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] URL for picture of forge
Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: In a message dated 6/18/2008 10:19:30 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JBRMM266 writes: The original poster sent me the URL: _http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm_ (http://homepages.tig.com.au/~dispater/armourers3.htm) If I had to guess, I'd say that was one of the illustrations from Christine de Pizan's City of Women. There are other such examples in that manuscript (like women building a house .) Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] portraits?
Quoting michaela de bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED]: http://tinyurl.com/5gvnl4 Well, to be fair, there's some small possibility it is a portrait of AB; it could just be posthumous. ...and, it looks like that may be the case. It's attributed to Marcus Gheeraerts the younger, as a posthumous romanticized portrait. Since he painted for QE once or twice, she may well have asked for it. Where did you see the attribution? Just curious as I didn't see it on the auction. It's definitely not Anne, she's wearing distinctly post 1600 Spanish dress so is from the Spanish or Austrian Court. I've seen it attributed to Pourbus rather than Gheeraerts. Wikipedia claims Gheeraerts -- all other sources including this entry cite Pourbus. http://encyclopedia.farlex.com/Anne+Boleyn With her eyes, it also looks like the work of Sofonisba Anguissola; but I leave the attribution to the folks that know. As to it can't be Anne, I disagree. It's attributed as a posthumous painting -- as the above posted indicated possibly at the behest of Elizabeth, her daughter, who might have requested those clothes. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] portraits?
Quoting michaela de bruce [EMAIL PROTECTED]: *snip* http://www.wga.hu/frames-e.html?/html/p/pourbus/frans_y/portlady.html Here's why, it was an inscription added much much later. Cool! Did not know that. wga.hu must have done an update since the last time I looked at Pourbus. :-) Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Tie on pockets, dating correction [was: Pockets; was: Italian Ren gowns and purses/pouches]
Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: If there were tie on pockets *before* the 1700s, well, it certainly could be possible, after all, these pockets couldn't have spontaneously appeared in the year 1700. :) There are pockets in 16th C. Italian Paintings -- there just aren't any extant pockets that I know of -- although, niggling in the back of my brain is an extant pocket that dates from pre-1650. A lady in the SCA has her research (and the snippets from a couple of the paintings) here http://katerina.purplefiles.net/garb/diaries/Kat's%20Soccaccia.html Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What in the world? Odd 16th C. child's skirt
Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg What in the world is going on with that child's skirt? Did the artist decide after the fact that the skirt should be split, with a forepart? Would trim really have been applied diagonally and interrupted? Somewhere, I seem to remember a discussion about this painting, and one of the suggestions/comments was that that wasn't *trim* but it was like chains/strings hanging from the waist. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Standard reference books on embroidery history?
Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Ages ago I forwarded a question about blackwork to this list on behalf of a colleague. You folks were very helpful, so I'm coming back with an add-on query. *snip* Bonus points if you can also point her to a good overview source on known embroidery styles from, say, 1300-1600, based on surviving pieces, so she can get a sense of other known styles of this period and compare them with what she learns about blackwork. I think she does not have much of a sense of just how much is known about specific embroidery styles, and how many types of embroidery there were in this period. The bible is Schuette Christensen's A Pictorial History of Embroidery. It's chock full of pictures of extant pieces. Unfortunately most of the photos are in black and white, but they provide info on each piece -- colors, stitches, ground fabric type, etc. King Levey's The Victoria and Albert Museum's Collection: Embroidery in Britain from 1200-1750. All color pictures. :-D Bridgeman Drury's Needlework An Illustrated History More text than either of the above books -- they're mostly picture books. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: saint/iconography question
Quoting Mary [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Unless the context of this painting is a series on the nativity I wonder if it actually more of a sideways Virgin and Child Entroned with Saints and Angels. One is more likely to see Mary and Jesus presented in the center with saint important to the patron around the sides or below. I've been looking a lots and lots of nativity images in researching children's clothing and there generally aren't that many people hanging around a regualr nativity. But then why don't the rest of them have halos. This is what the wga.hu site says about the painting. Probably created for the Sant'Egidio's church in Florence, the central panel was executed by Lorenzo Monaco, painter and Camaldolite monk whose activity as illuminator appears in bright colours. His wholly Gothic style also emerges in lengthened figures. Prophets and the Annunciation in the upper part are by Cosimo Rosselli, and was added at the end of 15th century when the original triptych was made rectangular, with the almost complete abolition of divisions between panels. Restored in 1995 And thanks all for the comments. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] saint/iconography question
We've been looking at this painting http://www.wga.hu/art/l/lorenzo/monaco/ador_mag.jpg Billed as Adoration of the Magi by Lorenzo Monaco ca. 1422 Are those really the Magi? (The folks with the halo's). To my *very* untrained eye, they remind me more of saints than Magi. The individual in the peach/orange with the blue head-wrap reminds me more of The Magdalene rather than one of the Magi. I'm not that good with early 15th c. art or saints iconography -- and I know that there are folks on this list that are more knowledgeable than I. Half my brain tells me that I should just take the painting title at face value and go with it, but those 3 individuals aren't like any other representations of Magi that I've seen. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] saint/iconography question
Quoting monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]: H. I'm usually pretty good at this (Catholic school fom grade 1 through grad school) I would have thought the person in the front in red was probably Mary Magdelene because the cup is part of the iconography and it looks like a woman. But I am stumped. See, that's what I thought. The belt makes it look like a woman's garment; but the bearded man on the horse in the background is also wearing a belted garment. It's got me stumped; but I'm so far out of my league on this one! St. Joseph is the guy in yellow at the left. nods. That one I knew! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Period Patterns #41 Italian Renaissance Gowns
Quoting Aylwen Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Thanks Susan. I was tired when I started tracing but now realise they put three different styles in one. Took a while for my brain to sort it out. Have you made this style? nods. They're hateful like that. Several folks (and I'm *going* to do it) take the pattern pieces and just trace them off onto interfacing. I did iron my pattern pieces to fusable interfacing, but you've still got 3 or 4 different views on the same piece, and that's annoying. I haven't made V yet; I want to make one. I'm starting work on a I, but Im not using this pattern except for the sleeve. I went to a workshop and got a bodice pattern drafted for me to do it with. jerusha/ susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Period Patterns #41 Italian Renaissance Gowns
Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]: For those of you who have used this pattern, how does the sizing run?(Large, small?) And for that matter, how do you figure out what size you are? I'm not seeing it in the instructions. I hesitate to assume what they say is a 10 will fit me. I don't have a clue. If a 10 is really a 10, remember it's a 1986 10 not a current 10. My plan is to make a toile and then tweak it. susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Period Patterns #41 Italian Renaissance Gowns
Quoting Joan Jurancich [EMAIL PROTECTED]: The best way to check for sizing is to actually measure the pattern pieces (seam line to seam line) and compare them to your own measurements. As I recall (from many years ago), Period Patterns was not very good with sizing. I gave up using them for Elizabethan gowns. Until Margo developed her line of patterns, I had to have mine drafted by friends. Based on personal experience, that doesn't always work. I learned to sew at 11 or 12. I took Home Ec as a Freshman in High School (back in the dim reaches of time when you could take Home Ec and learn to sew .). We sere supposed to make simple A-line dresses, but I got to make one with a waist because I'd been sewing. I told her I wore a 10. (I'd been making 10s for several years after all). She took my measurements, looked at the measurements on the envelope, measured the pattern and said that I wore a 14. We discussed it, and she prevailed (because she was the teacher and She Knew! There was enough room in that dress for me and her and half my class. :-( susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Period Patterns #41 Italian Renaissance Gowns
Quoting Chiara Francesca [EMAIL PROTECTED]: And normally I would agree with you Susan but Joan is talking about physically measuring the pattern lines on the paper patterns, not reading and depending on what is on the back of the envelope. :) I know. But she (the teacher) measured the pattern pieces too to *prove* to me that I was wrong. Susan Based on personal experience, that doesn't always work. I learned to sew at 11 or 12. I took Home Ec as a Freshman in High School (back in the dim reaches of time when you could take Home Ec and learn to sew .). We sere supposed to make simple A-line dresses, but I got to make one with a waist because I'd been sewing. I told her I wore a 10. (I'd been making 10s for several years after all). She took my measurements, looked at the measurements on the envelope, measured the pattern and said that I wore a 14. We discussed it, and she prevailed (because she was the teacher and She Knew! There was enough room in that dress for me and her and half my class. :-( susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Period Patterns #41 Italian Renaissance Gowns
Quoting A Gardiner-Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I am making version V, but do not have the instructions. I am tracing out the pieces and just got to the bodice. It has the nrmal bodice shape, and then the v-neck overlaid. Can someone explain this bit to me and how it is sewn/attached? I don't want to have to buy another pattern to get instructions. If I do I'm sure the instructions will turn up! Tempting... but too costly to experiment. Cheers and thanks, Aylwen It's not attached. It's two separage garments. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Re: Wedding traditions (was Tango in a Hoop )
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of B -_- M -_- Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 4:52 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Wedding traditions (was Tango in a Hoop ) *snippage* But the wedding itself had to be postponed. Less than three weeks before the intended wedding, and six days before my own flight to the country where it would take place, I was diagnosed with cancer. I'll have to have surgery right away. The flight was cancelled, as were all bookings. Luckily, it's hopefully contained, I may not even need chemotherapy afterwards. So, this may be the last time I'll be online in a long time. Merry Christmas to everyone! Don't know if you'll see this or not, but please, *PLEASE* keep us posted! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] removing blod stains
Quoting Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I remember i saw a tv programme from the workshop at Chanel where all the work of the couturieres was shown. It happened from time to time, that some of the ladies, stuck their fingers and bleeded on the haute couture creations, but then they had a lady they send for who emediately came and removed the blod stains. What do you think they used? I have often wondered about this, and also because sometimes it happens for myself two. What do you do? Soak it in salt water. susan/ jerusha - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Earlier History texts (was Re: [h-cost] Books on recent costume history
Quoting Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I teach a costume/fashion class and am wondering if there are any costume history books that cover the 1960s up to 2000. All mine stop around 1975. Has anyone written a more current one? And on a similar note ... What's your favorite text for pre-20th century clothing? susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: 3 'new' portraits of Queen Elizabeth
Quoting Sharon Henderson [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Oh WOW, those are wonderful pics! Alas you cannot save the very close-ups, but it is well worth the brief pain of filling out the forms! I have long wanted to make that gown and feared to start... err, I mean the crimson van der Meulan portrait of Elizabeth. Theoretically, it's in your browser cache somewhere. I poked around in my Mozilla cache today, but didn't find it. I haven't tried IE yet. Generally, if it *is* in cache, it's in pieces like a jig-saw puzzle. You can use the print screen button and then save that piece of the painting. You have to have a paint/photo program (Paint Shop Pro, PhotoShop, MS Paint -- shoot, you can even paste it into a Word Document!) and then just paste after you use the print screen button. I saved several pieces like that. Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] help finding a painting
Quoting Elizabeth Walpole [EMAIL PROTECTED]: This is not directly clothing related but does anybody know where I can find a painting that shows the visitation (the bit in the bible where Mary visits Elizabeth) with a sort of x-ray view where you can see both the unborn babies (Jesus and John the Baptist) on their mothers stomachs. From memory it's 14th or 15th century Italian and I think one mother is wearing pink and the other blue but I may be mistaken. I was talking to a friend about it but without an artist or reasonably unique title a google image search didn't turn up anything useful. To bring this back to clothing, I think it would be fun to recreate the painting by painting or printing a picture of a baby onto a dress. thanks Elizabeth, I have one like that, but I'm at school and it's at home. I'll email it to you tonight. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
Quoting Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Today I purchased at an antique store a really nice large group photo. I thought you all would like to see it. The cabinet card photo's back is written Uncle Lem Donahue's home at Sandyville, West Virginia. My guess is a Church Group. It was the custom to go to a memebers house for Sunday Dinner after the service. Even for a crowd that large. I can remember at my grandparents house, that there would be 2 or 3 tables of preachers, a couple of tables of men, then the women would eat and then the children. Granny fed a *LOT* of folks on Church Sunday. There's a sect of Baptists that you tend to find in the Appalachian Mountains that still have services once a month -- rather than the circuit riding preacher, the congregation moved from church-house to church-house. The practice dated from Colonial Virginia when an individual congregation could only meet once a month unless they were Anglican. Anyway, I've got a similar photo taken around 1902. My grandfather is one of the children on the front row -- 2 of the 4 sets of Great-GRandparents are under the Welcome sign, and the pastor of this group (this is actually a Methodist Church) was a great-grand-father (He's the person under the umbrella). This was taken at the Odd-Fellows hall on Birchfield in Wise Co., VA. http://epee.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Genealogy/Images/Misc/odd.fellows-11x14.jpg Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Interesting 1890s Group Photo
Oh, yeah ... Quoting Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]: F. I don't know if this is a ghost part of the photo or a blur. It is of a man on a horse. G. I am not sure if this is two ladies or one lady who moved while the photo was taken. Folks were probably moving. General exposure times were a couple of minutes. susan (who does Genealogy and collects Old Photos in her Copious Amounts of Spare Time!) - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
cleaning an old quilt (was Re: [h-cost] Ideas for an old quilt
While we're talking about Old Quilts (tm) ... I have a quilt that my grandmother made in the early 30s -- it's never been washed, and I want to get it cleaned and preserved. (*giggle* If it was photographs, I'd know what to do, but I digress ...) It's edged in *red* so I really don't want to wash it, I'm sure it will run. What do I need to do with this quilt to ensure that it continues to have a long and useful life? susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: cleaning an old quilt (was Re: [h-cost] Ideas for an old quilt
Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Susan Farmer wrote: What do I need to do with this quilt to ensure that it continues to have a long and useful life? Some web pages on this topic, that I wrote several years ago. http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/antique.htm http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/storage.htm http://www.reddawn.net/quilt/documnt.htm Thanks! I'll go read them right now. Not automatically throwing it in the washer is a good first step. :) The red may or may not run, you can swab test it to see. It may be strong enough to hand wash, if it needs that much attention. There are various ways to take care of it -- and any vintage textiles -- depending on whether you want to store it or display it. I figured that would be A Bad Thing! I at least knew that much. :-S It's in good shape -- physically, I think it would survive hand-washing. I don't want to do it if the dyes will run. I'd like to display it -- but I don't know if I'd *use* it or not. Thanks! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Looking for an article
Quoting Sandy Toscano [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I'm looking for a copy of an article by Janet Arnold. The reference is: Arnold, J., Elizabethan and Jacobean smocks and shirts, Waffenund Kostumkunde, Pt. 2 (1977), pp 89-110. Does anyone know where I can get a copy of this article? Your library should be able to get it for you via InterLibrary Loan. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes
Quoting Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Hee, hee, hee. Goes along with the itty bitty bladder club (only better) = at my school, it was the Itty Bitty Titty Committee. We even had t-shirts. *giggle* I like that. Was it on this list whee The Blessed Sisters of St. Boobula came up? susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Quoting Penny Ladnier [EMAIL PROTECTED]: When we recently purchased bras at Maidenform, the saleslady told us that if you can not find the exact bra size to go up to the next number and down a cup size. This worked for my daughter. We did this because the selection in styles were limited at her true size. Another test if a bra is fitting correctly is if the chest strap between the breast lays flat against the chest. If the strap is away from the center chest, the bra is not the correct size. If only! I have no back -- it's all boobage. I really want a band of 34 (or even 32) -- some 34s are too big, so I really *can't* go up to a 36. Trying to find a 32DD was hard, but this is ridiculous! Let me rephrase that, when I can find them, I can't afford them. *sigh* I do, however, have insurance now. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Quoting Rickard, Patty [EMAIL PROTECTED]: My mother had the same problem - Title 9 catalogue had some that would fit her, but as you say $$$. Last time I looked (1988), they were $100 . susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
So how do you deal with try before you buy? I'm so weirdly shaped that different styles from the same manufacturer don't always fit. I wore *one* style of bra for 20 years because none of Bali's other styles fit! susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Increasing bra sizes (long)
Quoting Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Rickard, Patty wrote: WOW! - Check current catalogue - the one I looked at was $49 (I thought that was a lot!) It is *sooo* worth it to get professionally fitted. I had it done earlier this year and I can't recommend it enough. Not all bras are equal. I must have tried on 6 before finding one that fit and felt right for my body. I used to go bra-less some days because of the comfort, now I forget I am wearing one because they are so comfortable. I no longer buy the flimsy twisty things from discount department stores. I second that; I was able to be fitted exactly once. However, when the store that's doing the fittings doesn't have anything that will fit you because most mass market bra manufactures thing that if you wear a G (or higher cup) then you need a bra band of 38 or so rather than 32/34 . That's why I don't want to mail order a bra that I can't try on first. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
RE: [h-cost] Custom bras
Quoting zelda crusher [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Susan, I joined a yahoo group called Custom-Bras (for some reason I can't get the link to paste). It was an offshoot of a sewing group concerned with good fit and the owner of the new group, Don McGunn, always had really on target suggestions for fit, so... I haven't actually tried to make any yet, but from the postings I've read it doesn't take a lot of time and almost no yardage. He has an e-book on the subject, but the site is full of files and videos which I suspect anyone who has done costuming could derive the info they need just from those. Oooh! Thanks. That sounds like it certainly has possibilities! susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Quoting Eva Andersson [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Dawn said: However, one of the pieces they reference might be. There's an embroidered jacket in the Boston MFA, done in silver and gold thread instead of multicolored, believed to have belonged to Elizabeth I. I remember seeing it several times when I was a student there. Unfortunately, I have never found a picture of it, in any book or online, since. I wonder if it is even still on display, given that it was 20 years ago. It was exquisite, and so tiny, looked like it was made for a 12 year old girl. I'm quite positive that one is shown in Blanche Payne's: History of Costume from 1965. Including a pattern diagram. But I may be remembering totally wrong of course. Blanche calls it a doublet. Pattern #4, page 543. Figure #334 -- only shows the back. Courtesy the Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection) -- no other accession/item number. Text: The Boston Museum of Fine Arts is the proud possessor of the golden doublet presented to Elizabeth about 1578 (Fig. 334 and Draft 4). The fabric of the doublet is fine, firm white linen, obviously from the loom of a superior weaver. The surface is covered with gold and silver embroidery in an endless scroll design enclosing a stylized flower. The background is thiclky sewed with minute gold sequins. Gold lace finishes the lower edge. The doublet is breathtaking in its gleaming splendor and awe-inspiring in its historical implications. Almost 400 years old, it is in near-perfect condition, a real sixteenth-century masterpiece. Actual measurements of the doublet indicate that the queen was a small person but her grand manner left no such impression. (p. 315). Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Medieval Clothing and Textiles (The Journal)
Robin, I know that on the BB web site, they show the list of papers included in each volume, is there a real Table of Contents (with page numbers) listed anywhere to facilitate ILLing papers from the different volumes? Thanks! susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] Abraham Baldwin Agricultural College Division of Science and Math http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Some old linen
Quoting Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Quoting Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I'm clearing things out, and came across an old white linen tablecloth and four napkins. What size is the tablecloth? *isgh* braif fart -- as I hit send I noticed 2 things -- one it was going to the list too (bad Susan), and 2 Robin's message came in *yesterday* so it's probably all gone by now. *sigh* apologies, all. susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] tippets ... Fwd: [SCA-Garb] Nice gown! (Italian fresco)
Hey Robin! From the SCA garb list ... Can I forward this to the H-Costume list where Robin Netherton hangs out? She's way interested in tippets. Jerusha Sure. Please tell her it was pointed out by John Dillion on the Medieval Religion List. I'm sure she'll recognise his name. Hrothny A fresco on the wall of the hexagonal baptistery of San Giovanni Battista (said to be originally ninth-cent., with fifteenth- and sixteenth-century frescoes) showing the marriage of St. Catherine of Sienna. http://www.microlanitalia.com/exe/turismoimg.htm?t=4k1=6k2=1 === It's Italian, but dig those tippets! Susan - Susan Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED] University of Tennessee Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
