Re: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters

2012-10-10 Thread ruthanneb
For stage costumes I always line/interface with heavy muslin. It holds the 
shape and size well and protects the outer fabric (which is usually more 
delicate) from stress. What did you use for lining and interfacing?

And here's what is probably a really stupid question, but you seem to have done 
everything right; and as Sherlock Holmes says, whatever remains, no matter how 
improbable, must be the solution! so: what size needle did you use? Do you 
think the stretching might be occurring near the stitching lines, where the 
needle holes are?

Yes, it really does sound like a silly idea. The only other factors I can think 
of, though, are faeries and witches...

--RA Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-Original Message-
From: Julie jtknit...@gmail.com
Sent: Oct 10, 2012 12:21 PM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Mystery for experienced Sempsters

 I guess all you can do now is line it. (With fabrics that don't hold their
 shape, interfacing corrects that but now that you've put the dress
 together, that would be a bear.


**It *is* lined.  Maybe if I'd interlined it?

  
 Some things to think about for your debugging:
 Did you put in all the facings, linings  interfacings required?

**yes

Did you pre-shrink your cottons with hot water and then in the dryer on
zorch?
**always

Does the stretch occur in crossgrain direction?
**no.  Bodice is cut straight grain and grows around the body.

Is your model wearing period unmentionables
**no.  She's young enough that the boned bodice is enough...no bra.
Also, IMHO, the Joann's quilting fabrics on the bargain wall are not
particularly high quality.
**These were the good quilting fabrics.  That's why I'm so mystified 
ticked.  I didn't cheap out (but only because we didn't find anything we
liked on sale.)
--cin

Julie
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Re: [h-cost] Hippy craft projects

2012-04-24 Thread ruthanneb

Here's somebody's photo. Google brought up a lot of pages! 
http://www.instructables.com/id/Recycle-Soda-Pop-Tabs-Into-Chain-Mail/

-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com
Sent: Apr 24, 2012 11:50 AM
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Hippy craft projects

No, although my husband told me that one of his fellow students in high 
school spent a lot of class time making chain mail armor out of soda 
pull tabs.

Fran
Lavolta Press
Books on making historic clothing
www.lavoltapress.com
www.facebook.com/Lavolta Press

On 4/24/2012 8:37 AM, R Lloyd Mitchell wrote:
 Does any one know of a surviving chainmail armour tunic made from pull 
 tabs(pop/beer cans)?I have two books on how to recycle pantyhose, fabulous 
 volume of jeans embroidery, and some misc craft ideas like the bottletop 
 scraper rug and creative uses for winecorks. I have seen photos of nifty 
 armour, but never seen it up close and personal.


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Re: [h-cost] Hippy craft projects

2012-04-24 Thread ruthanneb
Not a finished piece, but here's a how-to: 
http://www.instructables.com/id/Genuine-chainmaille-from-pop-tabs/


-Original Message-
From: R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu
Sent: Apr 24, 2012 11:37 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Hippy craft projects

Does any one know of a surviving chainmail armour tunic made from pull 
tabs(pop/beer cans)?I have two books on how to recycle pantyhose, fabulous 
volume of jeans embroidery, and some misc craft ideas like the bottletop 
scraper rug and creative uses for winecorks. I have seen photos of nifty 
armour, but never seen it up close and personal.

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Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

2012-02-27 Thread ruthanneb
Very true that the moths that develop from mealworms don't eat fabrics. BUT 
also true that once they get into your house they are EVERYWHERE in your house, 
and they are particularly fond of making their cocoons in folds of drapery and 
other cloth (as well as on the back panels and undersides of furniture and all 
through your grains), and those cocoons are sticky. If they decided to make 
cocoons in your feathers, I'd say goodbye to the feathers. Keep your birdseed 
outdoors in galvanized steel garbage cans, keep your foodstuffs in Mason jars 
or else put the boxes inside big Ziplock bags. You can freeze the flour etc. if 
you want, but the best defense is to be able to see the moths or grubs BEFORE 
they get out into your house. Yes, it can take a year (or more) to clear an 
infestation once you have it.
--RA Baumgartner


-Original Message-
From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com
Sent: Feb 27, 2012 11:29 AM
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

The moths who get into wheat and other foods are a completely different 
species from moths who eat wool. I found this out when we bought a bag of bird 
seed that had moth eggs inside. We had a huge infestation in our utility room. 
It took several months before it was completely gone. I had no idea that there 
were even moths that ate food. I had to educate myself on them quick!
 
Teena



From: cora hendershot wheatgoddes...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com 
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2012 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

I have a similar problem with moths in the wheat.  I hate to say it but I have 
gone to the dark side on this topic and I put a Hot Shot No Pest strip in 
every (airtight) box.  I have feathers, too, and this stuff works.  Cedar,  
moth balls, lavendar, not so much.  Freezing has to be pretty close to 0 
degrees F to really work.   150 degrees F for 2 hours works, too, but not 
appropriate for feathers.  The damn bugs are EVERYWHERE and you can get 
reinfested all too easily.


From: seamst...@juno.com seamst...@juno.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com 
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

I use a couple of tablespoons of whole cloves in those little drawstring 
organza wedding favor bags in all my boxes of wool/feathers. It seems to work 
pretty well. There's no staining from the cloves and my clothing has a warm 
spicey aroma. I'm sure they would work as well for cedar and lavender.  Karen 

-- Original Message --
From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
To: gbacgcostum...@yahoogroups.com, Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 12:27:40 -0800

Hi all,

We've had an infestation of moths in the house, mostly in my feather
collection. I had them all in a (not airtight) plastic container. Thinking
that they needed some air, I kept all the vintage feathers carefully
wrapped up in tissue. Those feather I didn't care much about were in
zip-lock bags and had no moths in them at all. Of course the damage was to
the vintage feathers.

When I bring feathers home, I always put them in a zip bag and leave them
in the freezer for a couple of weeks to kill off any bugs that may already
be in them before I add them to my collection. Unfortunately, something
went wrong with my plans. After tossing about a third of my collection,
I've cleaned the rest and put them back into the freezer. I'll be ready to
take them out this weekend. Before I do I want to purchase some cedar chips
or a bit of cedar and put them in with the feathers and in my wool boxes
(the smell of moth balls makes me nauseous so I'm not going there).

SO my question: I understand the oils in the cedar (or lavendar if I decide
to use that instead) can stain and I wondered how you have avoided this.
Would putting the cedar or lavendar into one layer of muslin keep my
fabrics/feathers from being stained and still keep the moths out? Two
layers?

Thanks for any information you might have,
Lynn
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Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

2012-02-27 Thread ruthanneb
Oh god, I had forgotten those parades of maggots up the walls. An unholy mess. 
Yes, we were taken by surprise too. Now we are VIGILANT!
Best wishes--
Ruth Anne


-Original Message-
From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com
Sent: Feb 27, 2012 1:23 PM
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

Ruthanne, you are so right. And they were disgusting! I walked into the 
utility room one morning and saw maggots going up the wall. And let me tell 
you maggots from moths are no less gross than maggots from flies. You could 
have knocked me over with a feather! Luckily, it was the utility room and not 
the kitchen, but we still kept a lot of staples in there. We didn't bother 
trying to save anything. Everything went into the trash. And then we washed 
every surface of that room. Even though we cleared out every moth/larvae we 
found, there were some behind cupboards and such. I bought some strips that 
have a pheramone designed to lure that specific species of moth. It took at 
least 6 months or more before the strips stayed clean. I think I was lucky 
that I noticed them right away and they didn't get into other areas of the 
house. But I see how easily they could. And in my case, the kitched was the 
next room over.
 
You really have to be careful with what you buy. After that experience, I know 
exactly what their eggs look like. We bought a box of dog treats a year or so 
later and I immediately identified moth eggs inside. Into the garbage they 
went! I was thankful I saw them because that would have been right in the 
pantry. What a nightmare!
 
Teena


From: ruthan...@mindspring.com ruthan...@mindspring.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com 
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2012 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

Very true that the moths that develop from mealworms don't eat fabrics. BUT 
also true that once they get into your house they are EVERYWHERE in your 
house, and they are particularly fond of making their cocoons in folds of 
drapery and other cloth (as well as on the back panels and undersides of 
furniture and all through your grains), and those cocoons are sticky. If they 
decided to make cocoons in your feathers, I'd say goodbye to the feathers. 
Keep your birdseed outdoors in galvanized steel garbage cans, keep your 
foodstuffs in Mason jars or else put the boxes inside big Ziplock bags. You 
can freeze the flour etc. if you want, but the best defense is to be able to 
see the moths or grubs BEFORE they get out into your house. Yes, it can take a 
year (or more) to clear an infestation once you have it.
--RA Baumgartner


-Original Message-
From: Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com
Sent: Feb 27, 2012 11:29 AM
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

The moths who get into wheat and other foods are a completely different 
species from moths who eat wool. I found this out when we bought a bag of 
bird seed that had moth eggs inside. We had a huge infestation in our utility 
room. It took several months before it was completely gone. I had no idea 
that there were even moths that ate food. I had to educate myself on them 
quick!
 
Teena



From: cora hendershot wheatgoddes...@yahoo.com
To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com 
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2012 5:30 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

I have a similar problem with moths in the wheat.  I hate to say it but I 
have gone to the dark side on this topic and I put a Hot Shot No Pest strip 
in every (airtight) box.  I have feathers, too, and this stuff works.  
Cedar,  moth balls, lavendar, not so much.  Freezing has to be pretty close 
to 0 degrees F to really work.   150 degrees F for 2 hours works, too, but 
not appropriate for feathers.  The damn bugs are EVERYWHERE and you can get 
reinfested all too easily.


From: seamst...@juno.com seamst...@juno.com
To: h-cost...@indra.com 
Sent: Friday, February 24, 2012 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths

I use a couple of tablespoons of whole cloves in those little drawstring 
organza wedding favor bags in all my boxes of wool/feathers. It seems to work 
pretty well. There's no staining from the cloves and my clothing has a warm 
spicey aroma. I'm sure they would work as well for cedar and lavender.  Karen 

-- Original Message --
From: Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com
To: gbacgcostum...@yahoogroups.com, Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Cedar chips/moths
Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2012 12:27:40 -0800

Hi all,

We've had an infestation of moths in the house, mostly in my feather
collection. I had them all in a (not airtight) plastic container. Thinking
that they needed some air, I kept all the vintage feathers carefully
wrapped up in tissue. Those feather I didn't care much about were in
zip-lock bags and had no moths in them at all. Of 

[h-cost] Has everyone seen this?

2011-03-08 Thread ruthanneb
Talk about costume in literature! (or is this vice versa?)
http://www.guardian.co.uk/books/2011/mar/07/gown-exhibit-dumaurier-cornwall?CMP=twt_gu

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
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Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods

2009-04-17 Thread ruthanneb
If some of the full-time members of the department of the school nearest to me 
weren't vindictive snobs I could! Actually our new Writing Program Director is 
encouraging those of us who teach in that program to go, and I do own my 
regalia so it's no problem, but I'm still thinking about the v.s. factor...
--Ruth Anne

-Original Message-
From: annbw...@aol.com
Sent: Apr 17, 2009 8:28 AM
To: h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods

 
In a message dated 4/17/2009 7:20:20 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
ruthan...@mindspring.com writes:

I don't  get  
invited to participate in graduation, so things may have changed  over  
the last decade or so.



Maybe you wouldn't want to, but couldn't you go anyway?  I was just a  
part-time instructor at Morgan State University, but when I heard that 
President 
 Clinton was going to speak, I got dressed up and went--had to borrow a 
hood, as  I hadn't bought one.  No one seemed to care one way or the other 
that 
I  went--I just had to go through the metal detector with everyone else.
 
Ann Wass
**Join ChristianMingle.com® FREE! Meet Christian Singles in 
your area. Start now! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221246370x1201421635/aol?redir=http://www.christianmingle.com/campaign.html?cat=adbuysrc=pl
atformaadid=aolfooternewurl=reg_path.html)
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Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods

2009-04-17 Thread ruthanneb
You also have to know, as Harriet Vane comments in Dorothy L. Sayers' GAUDY 
NIGHT, how to turn the velvet border so the silk lining shows. Yes, the least 
they could do as part of the approving of a degree is to instruct the recipient 
on how to put on the duds!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner

-Original Message-
From: Land of Oz lando...@netins.net
Sent: Apr 17, 2009 10:28 AM
To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: Re: [h-cost] possibly OT -- Academic Hoods


Every time I walk at commencement I see full-professor PhDs who have  
no idea how to wear their hoods.  As a professional costumer, my  
strong urge is to go around fixing their costumes, but since I don't  
know most of them, I restrain myself!


That's probably because very few people know, and when you get set up for 
graduation, no
one tells you any of this stuff. I wish I had known some of this stuff when I 
got my
Master's degree.  All they tell you is to go to the bookstore and pick up a 
robe. Then,
you might find (as I did) that the example robes hanging out to try on are 
mis-labeled and
the packaged robe you bought doesn't fit!   No one mentioned anything about 
hoods or other
items for master's degrees and I don't recall anyone wearing any from any 
dept. or college
within the university.

Denise B

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Re: [h-cost] Lobster Back???

2009-02-10 Thread ruthanneb
What is being described is not the coat but the hat, a tiny version of the 
hats of those English soldiers nicknamed 'lobster backs.' Those would be the 
redcoats, the English soldiers of the 18th-19th century notorious here during 
the American Revolution.

--R.A. Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Penny Ladnier pe...@costumegallery.com
Sent: Feb 10, 2009 4:18 AM
To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] Lobster Back???

I was looking through an August 1913 issue of a French high-fashion magazine.  
In the text was a description of a fashion having a lobster back.  I do not 
read French very well.  Can someone please read the following paragraph and 
let me know what is being referred to as having a lobster back.  I have not 
heard the term used for fashion.

Deauville, 12 Août

 

L'un de ces manteaux, qui m'a infiniment plu, parce que réellement celui-là 
répondait à un besoin et avait extrêmement de chic, était en gros molleton un 
peu dur, comme l'étoffe des vareuses de matelots; sans manches drapé, et 
seulement garni de ses revers, il avant une allure inouie sur une robe de 
mousseline blanche à volants, parce qu'il épaississait la silhouette d'une 
facon voulue et cocasse, contrastant avec la tête que coiffait un de ces 
minuscules bonnets des soldats anglais surnommés lobster back; comme 
celui-là, il était posé sur l'oreille droite, complètement adhérent au front 
très dégagé, et piqué d'une aigrette paradis très maigre et démesurément 
haute.  C'était là du nouveau, autant par les détails que par l'ensemble de 
cette toilette très excentrique et tout à fait réussie.


Penny Ladnier
Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites
www.costumegallery.com
11 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history
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Re: [h-cost] OT: Finished Empire Gown

2008-09-16 Thread ruthanneb
The dress diary is very interesting. I've been flirting with a gown from one of 
the Albert books for some time and may now get up the nerve to try it.
BUT the most enjoyable part of your site is the 
What-kind-of-romance-novel-heroine-are-you quiz. I took it in the spirit of fun 
and discovered that the result is a pretty good picture of the actual me! Who 
knew?
Thanks so much for your posting!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sep 15, 2008 2:57 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Finished Empire Gown

Dear All,

I've been working an an Empire gown (well, actually three which I had to 
size up until I got one that fit me) for over a year, and now it's done. You 
can see it in progress on my website www.marjoriegilbert.net, as well as a 
section on the stays I made for it, and how to get dressed in the gown 
(which is a bit of a process).

I hope you enjoy it!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
http://historicalfictionbooks.ning.com/profile/MarjorieGilbert
- Original Message - 
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] CC-27


 Yes'm.  Looks like my request was filled before I made it.
 Thanks,
 --cin
 Cynthia Barnes
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]


 From: Judy Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Hi folks,

I have passed on all the concerns to the Powers That Be. The 
 website
 will hopefully get worked over this week, as to a chat list.. is there
 really interest? I've been given permission to start one up on yahoo if
 people want it. Will that do?

 -Judy Mitchell
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Re: [h-cost] Languages

2008-05-06 Thread ruthanneb
If it weren't completely OT, I'd love to post some of the things my American 
college students write in English class. And, as you say, for most of them 
English is the only language they've got.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: May 6, 2008 1:01 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Languages

Bjarne, I *never* make fun of anyone who speaks more than one language! but 
I do get a chuckle out of the occasional malaprop.  I only speak the one I 
was born to and I admire anyone who can communicate in more than one 
language.

My mother speaks 4 fluently and can get along in two others. Her native 
language is French and I can limp along a little, but my cousins were 
terribly amused to find that I had HORSE on my head, not hair.  or was it 
hat?

Anyway, you do just fine in English -- far better than most of the people on 
this list could do in Danish, I'd guess.  Don't let it bother you if we 
sometimes get a smile from something you wrote -- A smile a day is healthy!

Denise
Iowa 

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Re: [h-cost] Les Adieaux en miniature

2008-04-08 Thread ruthanneb
This is breathtaking, Bjarne. The doll looks VERY pleased with her beautiful 
gown.
I'm sure we're all looking forward to the next one!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Leif og Bjarne Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Apr 8, 2008 2:53 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Les Adieaux en miniature

Sorry this is off topic, but it is historical costume.
I finnished the doll dress and i promised you to see it finished:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/cl31.htm
More here:
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/the_queens_lady_in_waiting.htm
I am going on a small holliday to Berlin the day after tomorrow, it wil be 
nice, but i cant waite to get home again and start another one.

Bjarne
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Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

2007-12-18 Thread ruthanneb
The best answer, then, is to costume yourself as the White Queen from Lewis 
Carroll's THROUGH THE LOOKING-GLASS, and celebrate the scattered hairpins and 
flying hair as costuming detail at its best!
http://www.art.com/asp/sp-asp/_/pd--12385785/sp--A/White_Queen_Alice_Adjusts_the_White_Queens_Shawl.htm

-Original Message-
From: Gilbert [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 16, 2007 9:16 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun

I did put my hair in a pony tail but obviously did not use enough pins. Not 
even enough for me to find my way out of the mall as they scattered on the 
floor behind me. I will have to look into the more massive hair pins you 
describe. Thank you!

Marjorie

Marjorie Gilbert
author of THE RETURN, a historical novel set in Georgian England
www.marjoriegilbert.net
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 5:01 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] OT: Keeping hair in bun


 Do any of you have any sure-fire suggestions as to keeping ones hair in 
 a bun

 I have to admit I'm one of those disgusting ones whose hair stays in a bun 
 pretty much by itself (can't braid it though because the cohesion is too 
 much). _However_, if you put the hair in a pony tail first and then wrap 
 your hair around the hair band, you'll have better success.  The rubber 
 band will be taking the structural load of holding the hair up instead of 
 the bobby pins. The hair band won't show and you can anchor the bobby pins 
 in the rubber band as well, adding another layer of structure.

 I have to say that I've also had better success with true hair pins (looks 
 like a V) instead of bobby pins, but that might just be my hair.
 --Kathy K.


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Re: [h-cost] Irish cloak

2007-12-07 Thread ruthanneb
When the Kinsale cloak FolkWear pattern was bran-new I made one for my sister, 
who was a professional musician at the time and traveled in various weathers 
when her symphony orchestra did run-outs into the state's hinterlands. I used 
black cotton velveteen and lined it with a shiny silver polyester that was 
backed with flannel, clearly intended as a coat lining. Black frogs for 
closure, plus of course a big black tassel at the point of the hood (because 
who can resist tassels?). Yes, gathering all that fabric (body and hood) at the 
neck was hard--I had to sew all the neck seams by hand. But my sister wore it 
many, many times (both on run-outs and to the orchestra's home theater) and 
said it was warm, comfortable, and of course very elegant. On run-outs, the 
copious fabric gave her the equivalent of a big blanket to curl up inside of in 
the orchestra's bus.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-It is my impression that the Kinsale cloak in its present form started to be 
seen sometime in the 18th century.  Never having researched the subject, I'm 
not certain of that, but based on what I know about 18th c clothing, it seems 
likely to me.

I have one.  I made up the Folkwear pattern (without the hood, because I was 
having a hard enough time gathering the cloak enough to sew the collar on) in 
a lightweight wool/silk twill blend.  I wore it occasionally in fall weather 
while I was in college.  It was a wonderfully fun garment, but I can 
understand that many people might not want to be burdened with so much 
material.



-- 
Cathy Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

It is better to keep your mouth closed and let people think you are a fool
than to open it and remove all doubt.-- Mark Twain
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RE: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos

2007-10-04 Thread ruthanneb
But you'll have a very hard time getting ANY published material copied at 
Kinko's. Ten years or so ago they were the subject of a big copyright-violation 
suit because they were helping/encouraging faculty to make their own 
textbooks with photocopied materials, and neither the faculty nor Kinko's 
pursued the necessary permissions. Since then, Kinko's has been DEFINITELY 
once burned, twice shy with copying. Some years ago I wanted to make little 
thank-you cards for my TWELFTH NIGHT cast, and since we had danced a lavolta as 
our curtain call I wanted to put Queen Elizabeth I Dancing with Robert Dudley, 
Earl of Leicester on the front of the card. For that I needed (lacking a color 
scanner and a color printer at home) a color photocopy of the paintingand 
the counterperson at Kinko's WOULD NOT PERMIT me to make a tiny copy for this 
innocuous purpose. Even UNpublished material: My truelove had to photocopy the 
rough draft of a repair manual he was writing, to ship it to the company he was 
writing it for--and that Kinko's counterperson, seeing technical drawings 
bearing the company's name, refused to copy it for him without a written 
release from the company.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
p.s. Office Max obliged both times

-Original Message-
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Oct 4, 2007 2:43 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Re:[ h-cost] Costume photos


From Kate:

 Robin wrote:

 Copying pages or chunks here and there is something that
 happens every day in every university library and Kinko's.

 and Fran replied

 Ah: So since every crime and violation of law happens every
 day somewhere, it's OK for you to commit any of them?

Kate adds:

Kinko's, by the way, is an American chain of copy centers. That is, they were 
plain-old copy centers when they started sprouting up on college campuses a 
couple of decades ago. Now they also offer Fedex shipping, office supplies, 
and a bewildering array of printing/fax/computer services. They're open 24 
hours and I have spent many a late night there. I once assembled an 
anniversary-gift scrapbook there at 3am using their nice selection of 
acid-free decorative papers and their good paper cutter. I figure the only 
thing they're missing now is a coffee bar.

--Robin

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RE: [h-cost] shoe sizes

2007-02-09 Thread ruthanneb
This is true. But I can say for sure: I (female) wear a size 37 in the European 
shoes I wear (Berkenstock, but also some closed shoes) and a 6 1/2 or 7 in 
American-sized shoes; my consort (male) wears an 8 or 8 1/2 American size. 
There's no way he could fit into my shoes, and his are too large for me even to 
clomp around in, so I'd question the equation of 8 US men's and 38 or 39 
European. A little small on him and a little big on me would NOT wind up to be 
the same size
--for what it's worth--
Ruth Anne

-Original Message-
From: Kim Baird [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 9, 2007 10:05 AM
To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] shoe sizes

Bjarne--

A size 8 US men's shoe would be a 38 or 39 European size.
You can't trust US sizes, though--they vary quite a bit.
Kim 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bjarne og Leif Drews
Sent: Friday, February 09, 2007 7:33 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] shoe sizes

Does any know what a size 8 for mens shoes would be in european nr´s.
I use a size 38 but i think they would fit.

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] To Tab or not to Tab?

2007-01-30 Thread ruthanneb
I like the tabs too. At first I thought I preferred the cabbage tabs, but on 
reflection the matching tabs seem better, although a little dark because of the 
fabric design. Yes, fussy, but in a really interesting--you could almost say 
witty--way!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Teena Robertson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jan 29, 2007 10:38 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] To Tab or not to Tab?

I don't respond on here very often but I personally like it better with the 
tabs.
 Teena R.


- Original Message 
From: Saragrace Knauf [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: h-costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]; TheRenaissanceTailor [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sunday, January 28, 2007 10:29:30 AM
Subject: [h-cost] To Tab or not to Tab?


I'm not sure what I should do here. This bodice http://tinyurl.com/343la7
is sort of a practice bodice. It is made from flocked fake silk taffeta 
(barf - but it was the closest fabric I have found to give the right look.) 
I found it at the last minute about a week ago at Jo Annes - it just 
happened to match the silk taffeta of the skirt almost exactly. I am in the 
process of having another embroidered to match the embroidery in the actual 
picture. http://tinyurl.com/3bdc27

Anyyyway - the question:


I may have to use the practice bodice if the other doesn't work out or is 
not done in time for the presentation.

The other bodice will require a peplum of sorts to which all the leaves are 
attached. I did the same here and then experimented with no tabs, all the 
tabs in the same pattern, and finally tabs made from cabbage - random 
pieces of fabric.

Part of me wants to leave it without tabs, because it looks fussy to me. But 
many of the bodices had these whacky shaped tabs, and the original obviously 
did too..sighdecisions, decisions.

What is your vote?  Thanks for your opinions!

Sg



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Re: [h-cost] Restringing job

2007-01-25 Thread ruthanneb
My sister used to work for a jeweler and did a lot of stringing of beads and 
pearls. She says she might be interested but would need more details. She's in 
Arizona--you can e-mail her at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you want to pursue!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jan 25, 2007 1:01 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Restringing job

I have a long, 1920s style crystal bead necklace that needs restringing. 
  I hired someone before and they totally screwed up the job. If anyone 
is interested in doing it, please email me.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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RE: [h-cost] construction ?

2006-12-13 Thread ruthanneb
Watch? Isn't that a miniature (portrait)?
--Ruth Anne

-Original Message-
From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 13, 2006 12:28 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] construction ?

Thank you, everyone. I had a brain [EMAIL PROTECTED] and said plastron and not 
stomacher.
:P I think the ribbon in figure eights is what it probably is.
Bjarne, here is a painting of the woman's husband in the same blue.
http://sunsite.icm.edu.pl/cjackson/l/p-liotard3.htm
They're Swiss, so the watch humor was even more humorous to me. :)

Thank you,
De


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Re: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper

2006-12-12 Thread ruthanneb
If you choose 24-lb instead of 28-lb, the ream price goes down to $29 something.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
AND creator of a room-size braided rug made of old blue jeans


-Original Message-
From: Gail  Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 11, 2006 12:48 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper


I checked it out, you can still buy it. But here's what I mean by expensive.

This site:

http://www.thepapermillstore.com/catalog/Blue-Jean-Bond-28-lb-Bond-paper-Rea
m-p-9285.html

sells the paper. I don't know what mill makes it, and the price given here
is certainly not what I would pay wholeslae. But it's almost $42 for 500
sheets! Considering that you can buy office copy paper for about $4 for 500
sheets, that's an expensive ream of paper. Might be nice for all the sewers
and costumers, though...

Gail Finke

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Re: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper

2006-12-12 Thread ruthanneb
Let me find a clear space in my house (evidently NOT a Tardis because although 
it's stuffed with stuff it refuses to expand) to lay it out, and I'll take its 
picture. In advance I have to confess having added a circuit or two of old 
nightgowns, just for color
--Ruth Anne

-Original Message-
From: Lauren Walker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 12, 2006 11:48 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper

Yum. Can we see the rug?

On Dec 12, 2006, at 11:41 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 If you choose 24-lb instead of 28-lb, the ream price goes down to  
 $29 something.
 --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
 gypsy scholar and amateur costumer
 AND creator of a room-size braided rug made of old blue jeans


 -Original Message-
 From: Gail  Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Dec 11, 2006 12:48 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Re: blue jean paper


 I checked it out, you can still buy it. But here's what I mean by  
 expensive.

 This site:

 http://www.thepapermillstore.com/catalog/Blue-Jean-Bond-28-lb-Bond- 
 paper-Rea
 m-p-9285.html

 sells the paper. I don't know what mill makes it, and the price  
 given here
 is certainly not what I would pay wholeslae. But it's almost $42  
 for 500
 sheets! Considering that you can buy office copy paper for about  
 $4 for 500
 sheets, that's an expensive ream of paper. Might be nice for all  
 the sewers
 and costumers, though...

 Gail Finke

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Lauren M. Walker
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?

2006-12-05 Thread ruthanneb
I've read all the interesting suggestions posted so far. What occurs to me, 
particularly because you want him to be able to wear it on his back, is a 
modified quiver. You could even play the jest all the way and put a few dummy 
arrows in there along with the recorder--maybe make a rigid tie-down lid for 
the quiver and mount a clutch of feathered arrow-tops on that?
Sorry--I've been reading an awful lot (an awful LOT or an AWFUL lot? I think I 
mean it both ways...) of freshman essays and am taking refuge in whimsy!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-Original Message-
From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 5, 2006 2:56 AM
To: Historic Costume List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?


My 10-year-old son, who is far more musically inclined than I am, just had
his first experience at a medieval costumed event, where he went for the
sole purpose of finding the opportunity to play early music with other
like-minded souls. He intends to do more of this.

He has a suitable costume (c. 1300 in style, roughly Luttrell Psalter
working-class). However, he could use a way to carry his recorder safely
and conveniently. Ideally, it should be something that hangs from his
body, as he has the habit of putting things down and forgetting them.

I have never had the need to research period instrument cases, and I don't
really want to start now. But given the number of minstrel-types doing
re-enactment, I'm betting someone else has already devoted energy to this
subject. Can anyone point me to a webpage or other source for guidance?

If I don't find any hard documentation, I figure I'll take some quilted
fabric and make a recorder-sized tube, and then cover that with some wool
-- or else just use batting between two layers to create a padded tube.
The end could close with a foldover that can be fastened (latchet or
button), or maybe with a drawstring. It would also need a strap that would
let him carry it on his back. (He does wear a belt, but he's small for his
age, and even a soprano recorder would end up knocking around his knees if
he hung it from a belt.) If anyone has advice to improve on that scheme,
I'm all ears.

I have ruled out stuffing it down his hood liripipe primarily because he'd
probably end up sitting on it. But believe me, I was tempted.

--Robin

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Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?

2006-12-05 Thread ruthanneb
Oh, dear, so much for Robin Hood (and his band of merry men!)!
--Ruth Anne

-Original Message-
From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 5, 2006 11:42 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?

Mmm I don't think back quivers are medieval.
Altough I love them.

Greetings,
   Deredere

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I've read all the interesting suggestions posted so far. What occurs to me, 
 particularly because you want him to be able to wear it on his back, is a 
 modified quiver. You could even play the jest all the way and put a few 
 dummy arrows in there along with the recorder--maybe make a rigid tie-down 
 lid for the quiver and mount a clutch of feathered arrow-tops on that?
 Sorry--I've been reading an awful lot (an awful LOT or an AWFUL lot? I think 
 I mean it both ways...) of freshman essays and am taking refuge in whimsy!
 --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
 scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


 -Original Message-
   
 From: Robin Netherton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Dec 5, 2006 2:56 AM
 To: Historic Costume List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?


 My 10-year-old son, who is far more musically inclined than I am, just had
 his first experience at a medieval costumed event, where he went for the
 sole purpose of finding the opportunity to play early music with other
 like-minded souls. He intends to do more of this.

 He has a suitable costume (c. 1300 in style, roughly Luttrell Psalter
 working-class). However, he could use a way to carry his recorder safely
 and conveniently. Ideally, it should be something that hangs from his
 body, as he has the habit of putting things down and forgetting them.

 I have never had the need to research period instrument cases, and I don't
 really want to start now. But given the number of minstrel-types doing
 re-enactment, I'm betting someone else has already devoted energy to this
 subject. Can anyone point me to a webpage or other source for guidance?

 If I don't find any hard documentation, I figure I'll take some quilted
 fabric and make a recorder-sized tube, and then cover that with some wool
 -- or else just use batting between two layers to create a padded tube.
 The end could close with a foldover that can be fastened (latchet or
 button), or maybe with a drawstring. It would also need a strap that would
 let him carry it on his back. (He does wear a belt, but he's small for his
 age, and even a soprano recorder would end up knocking around his knees if
 he hung it from a belt.) If anyone has advice to improve on that scheme,
 I'm all ears.

 I have ruled out stuffing it down his hood liripipe primarily because he'd
 probably end up sitting on it. But believe me, I was tempted.

 --Robin

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RE: [h-cost] hair taping

2006-11-16 Thread ruthanneb
I'm intrigued by the reference to Elizabeth's second link--I can't find the 
message this clearly refers to, and maybe hair taping would be helpful to me.

In my annual Queen of Yore gig at a Medieval Banquet church fund-raiser, I 
fight with my hair (and lose) every year. The King and I (haha) don't wear 
headdresses--in fact, he won't even consent to a crown but last year acquiesced 
to my proffered filet, another of which I also wore last year to complement 
him. A proper headdress would be nice, but the logistics of the event, from 
dressing space on through chair-to-table distance (our thrones have arms) 
militate against it, as does the King's preference. (The king is a professional 
and known actor, a wonderful personality, and a very overweight man--I think 
his objection to crowns, rings, and other encircling things is a result of this 
last feature, but any of these would encourage me to defer to his strongly 
expressed sentiments.)

I have hip-length hair, basic beige but dramatically going white in streaks. 
What I'd like to do is braid it and coil it over my ears (very yore)--but I 
can't find a reliable way of anchoring the coils. One year in frustration I 
gave up and piled it on top of my head and looped pearls around it; one year I 
just made numerous loops and tied them together above my ears--this looked very 
Heidi, and they flopped like Beagle's ears when I turned my head...Last year I 
had a notion of sewing the nested coils together with gold cord and then 
tieing the cord to the filet, but that was an unmitigated disaster that I 
ripped out with only ten minutes to spare before our grand processional 
entrance, settling for a bun at the nape of the neck plus those trusty pearls.

Can someone direct me to a website or other directions for appropriate and 
manageable Yore Hair? The Burgundy-style gown has a standing collar.

Ever grateful--
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-Original Message-
From: Elisabeth Doornink [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 15, 2006 9:00 PM
To: 'Historical Costume' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] hair taping

I do hair taping just as a modern type hair do, and have found that I either
need to do it when it's wet, or when I've got a bunch of small-ish claw
clips to anchor the hair as I tape it. It's gotten easier and easier as my
hair has grown - a twist of hair reaches from behind one ear over to the
next, and the gravity of the strand helps keep it in place. 

Quia Christus perpetuo regnat, 
Elisabeth

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Julie
Sent: Wednesday, November 15, 2006 4:35 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] hair taping

Sorry getting in the middle of the topic. Have you tried braiding your hair
when wet or with a little gel or mousse? Usually it isn't thick hair that is
the problem but how smooth/slick the strands are.
De
-Original Message-
Hi Elizabeth,

  Yes, I've tried the hair taping (as seen in the second link you gave), and
it will only stay on my head if I then wrap the hair in a kertch. It won't
stay up on its own, and it wouldn't stay stable for a base for the French
hood. Also, it falls apart in the kertch that I wore, and only the wrapping
of the fabric around my head kept it from coming down.

  Maybe it is because I am doing my own hair, it is very thick, and I really
don't do much practice in hair braiding in general. I am not sure what else
to try, so I gladly will accept suggestions.

  Kimiko
-
Maybe it has to do with what you're using for the hair taping.  Usually we
use single faced satin ribbon.  Comes out in a day.  At one fair we were out
of ribbon and so used the lucet braid I had on hand made out of cotton rug
warp.  That hair taping stayed in for 3 days!  I slept with a silk scarf
over it.  It would have stayed UP longer, but there were too many fuzzies
escaping.

I wonder if using cotton twill tape instead of satin ribbon would work
better.

Julie

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Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange

2006-10-17 Thread ruthanneb
Dawn--
I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed the 
deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little who I am 
paragraphis it really too late?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Oct 16, 2006 3:29 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange 

Folks,

I'm including a confirmation list of email names of people who have 
signed up. If you are participating, please check to see if I have you 
on the list. I fished a few sign-ups out of the trash bin, but may have 
missed some.

If you are not participating, you can delete this message. :)


Dawn

[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange

2006-10-17 Thread ruthanneb
I'll do that as soon as I get home from work today. Thanks! --Ruth Anne

-Original Message-
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Oct 17, 2006 11:49 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Holiday Gift Exchange

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Dawn--
 I loved participating last year and would like to do so this year. Missed 
 the deadline because I haven't had time to write up a little who I am 
 paragraphis it really too late?
 --Ruth Anne Baumgartner
 scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
 

Ruth, I haven't made assignments yet, so if you send me your info I can 
add you to the list.


Dawn


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Re: [h-cost] The Libertine

2006-04-28 Thread ruthanneb
I haven't seen it--it was at a nearby megaplex but stayed only a week--of 
course I WILL, if only to see Johnny Depp in full Restoration rig! As to Wilmot 
having wasted his talents, though, I have to object: there's that hugely 
obscene play he wrote, and then of course he's part of the original circle of 
CRIBBAGE-players (was it John Suckling who invented it for the pleasure of 
Charles, or did John Wilmot himself invent it? can't recall). Cribbage got me 
through grad school and was the vehicle for my meeting some really great 
lobstermen one night in a Boothbay Harbor bar
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Marie Stewart [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Apr 28, 2006 8:15 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] The Libertine

I have seen it.   It is not having a wide distribution,  look for it
at an art theater.  I'm not qulaified to comment on the costuming
its outside of my realm of comfort.  But the overall feel of the movie
was muddy.  Interesting film.  Not so much IMO a story of sensuality,
as a story of how a man wasted his talents.

Mari

On 4/28/06, otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Story of John Wilmot 2nd Earl of Rochester. Lived at the time of King
 Charles the second of England. 17th century, Restoration period.
 It was suppose to have come out in March of 2005 but I must have missed it.


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Re: [h-cost] dilemma ahhhhhhhhhhh.

2006-03-09 Thread ruthanneb
Bravo, Bjarne. What a fitting recognition for your wonderful skills and 
accomplishments!
You sound as if you're very tempted.
These projects sound like something a bit new for you, a chance to stretch...
You COULD tell yourself that garments for exhibition aren't QUITE 
costumes...and so you wouldn't be breaking your promise to yourself not to 
make any more costumes...
Keep us posted about what you decide!
Best wishes,
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mar 9, 2006 8:49 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] dilemma ahhh.

Hi,
I just got an enquiry from a museum. Because this year it is renaissance 
year, a museum has purchased money to get 2 costumes done. I am asked to do 
them. I would make a dress after a portrait of Queen Sophie (the queen they 
remade the wedding dress for) - as a widow. A black dress, small white ruff 
and a black hood.
Then i should also make a prince outfit for a boy, the chosen prince  who 
died in 1647. This is rather late, and i dont think it has much to do with 
renaissance, but..
Oh  and i had promised myself from stopping making costumes, and besides, 
the outfits has to be finished in about 3 months. ..
Ah i really dont know, but would be very tempting

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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RE: [h-cost] Alexandrian cap

2006-03-02 Thread ruthanneb
I was disappointed that, among all these images of the Phrygian or liberty 
cap, Google did NOT find the college seal of my alma mater, Dickinson College 
(est. 1773, Carlisle, PA). Our seal has three objects: a telescope, a Bible, 
and the Phrygian cap, along with the motto that we are the fortress of liberty!
http://www.dickinson.edu/logo/faq10.html
Costume-related: Is Dickinson the only college with an article of clothing in 
its heraldry?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
Dickinson Class of '68

-Original Message-
From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mar 2, 2006 12:03 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] Alexandrian cap

Quoting Kathryn Parke [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

 Alas, that helps me not -- what does a Phrygian style hat look like?  : )


google image search is your friend
http://images.google.com/images?svnum=10hl=enlr=q=phrygian+hatbtnG=Search

Susan
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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[h-cost] slightly O-T greetings of the (passing) season

2006-03-02 Thread ruthanneb
Hello the list--

My truelove has kindly given me parking space on his website for the photo I 
took after our FIRST snowfall of the season and intended as a greeting card for 
the h-cost list. Today we're having what MIGHT be the last snowfall of the 
season.

Who would expect in a modest little neighborhood in Fairfield Connecticut to 
drive around the corner and find a pair of snowpersons one of whom was wearing 
a HENNIN? I assume a little girl wanted to give her Hallowe'en costume one more 
day to shineAnyway, with the homeowner's permission I took a photo of Snow 
Maiden and Swain.

Go to 
http://www.doingagatha.com/
and scroll down to the photo at the lower left, just over the Out of Pocket 
Productions paragraph. He'll keep this on the page for a week or so, and I 
hope you see and enjoy it.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

p.s. Doing Agatha is an independent film written and produced by my truelove 
and soon (oh god please!) to be released. We are NOT using the h-cost list to 
promote the film; I don't have a website of my own to post pictures. Of course 
I do imagine you'll be amused and fascinated by the costuming in the film 
photo RAB
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Re: [h-cost] re: Partly OT: Stains on table linen

2006-03-02 Thread ruthanneb
I just ran down to the basement to copy the label for this product-- 
I've had good luck with it but have used it on only two pieces, so I can't say 
I've done exhaustive testing!
It's called RESTORATION,
and it claims Revives color and freshness to antique linens...removes most 
stains.
Manufactured by Engleside Products of Lancaster, PA.
No acids, chlorine, or phosphates. Safe for all fabrics and colors. 
Environmentally safe.

I followed the directions on the label and was pleased with the results.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Mar 2, 2006 2:19 PM
To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] re: Partly OT: Stains on table linen

My mother has had to go into a nursing home and I'm clearing her
house. I've found numerous tablecloths and napkins, some quite old
and interesting, a lot of which have food stains on. I've washed them
with Vanish (if you don't have that in the US, it's a new
oxygen-based stain remover) but it doesn't get everything out. I
don't want to bleach antique or coloured items. Suggestions, anyone?

Kate
I collect, some whom I live with, would say amass vintage linens,
quilts  unmentionables.  Mostly I use baby soap, or whatever you wash
your favorite sweaters in. If really done in, a gentle bleaching
detergent. Air dry. Repeat until happy. When you finally get it clean
enough, hot press those beautiful crisp folds  store them away.

I would start with the gentlest treatment first on the most
replaceable or hopeless item.  See what happens.  Work your way up
to gentle, warm water  the oxy cleaner.  You will probably never get
the foxing out (those rust colored stains). Foxing can be caused by
contact with acidic stuff (like wood, common paper and food debris)
among other things.

No sure how old quite old is but if really, really old, then you
might want to stop at the cold, clear water rinse or cold water
gentlest soap so that colors dont run.

Truly magnificent items should be taken to a professional.   My spare
mom gave me two heavily embroidered unused gigantic table cloths,
buffet cloth  each with 12 napkins each all with the original gift
card as given to her mother.  She said, My mother stored this for 40
years. I have stored it for 40 years. Now it's your turn.  I havent
dared use it, but if I do, it's to serve white wine, dry foods with
brush-away crumbs, no grease and it goes to the pros afterwards.
grin

To prevent or postpone future foxing, line your linen storage in
buffered papers.  I just use an old cotton sheet as the bottom layer
in my cedar closet.

Some items are truly hopelessly stained, moth eaten or torn and I'm
not above recycling them into something else like a supportasse collar
or petticoat.  I have one of each made from a previous pillow case 
table linen respectively.

--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [h-cost] Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century embroiderers!!

2006-02-24 Thread ruthanneb
Try Lacis: http://www.lacis.com/catalog/search.php.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 24, 2006 11:32 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost]  Tambour hook/ was A book for Bjarne, and other 18th century 
embroiderers!!


Now I have had time to look at this beautiful book, I want to try 
tambour embroidery. (Not beading.) Does anyone have a source for the 
hooks? I have the handle part somewhere, but a source for that would 
probably be good too.

Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] modes bows and manners

2006-02-23 Thread ruthanneb
Dear Bjarne,
If you're going to be among the most excellent crafters of costume making in 
Europe, you should be perfectly at home. Have a wonderful time. It would be 
wonderful for us to see pictures if you're permitted to post them.
By the way, did your stockings from Jas. Townsend finally arrive?
Bon voyage!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 23, 2006 8:36 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] modes bows and manners

Hello all,
Want to thank you all for your intputs of my questions regarding greetings
bows and manners.
I travel to Frankfurt tomorrow early morning to visit the most excelent
crafters of costume making in Europe. They were so kind to invite me for a
full weekend event at Frankfurt. I have packed my trunk with my most
expensive costumes, hoping they have an iron i could borrow when i arrive.
This is the first time i am going for an event for several days, so
therefore i have packed my trunk to the limit including mundane, and high
fashion for 2 days, cloak and stockings, shirts, stocks, shoes, walking
sticks, pomanders, and 3 wigs. Oh what fun it will be,. If my hostest will
alow, i shal provide the list with photos online, when i get back. I have to
wear my hat in a plastic bag, besides my handbag for the airplane.
I will not be an unpolite gentleman, but i shall kiss my thumb when kissing
the ladies hands..

Bjarne






Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] Re: hunting pinks

2006-02-23 Thread ruthanneb
THANK YOU! Subject of idle speculation on my part from time to time for years!
I'm accustomed to being mildly disconcerted by some British terminology, but 
this one finally makes sense!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 22, 2006 6:03 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re: hunting pinks

18th century I think

name believed to derive from a tailor in London called Thomas Pink who 
specialized in field jackets - he used a very tightly woven red cloth that was 
resistant to thorns and branches, and was showerproof.

debs

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Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth

2006-02-21 Thread ruthanneb
Referring to those red fox-hunting jackets as pinks raises the additional 
question of just what the British historically meant when they called something 
pink.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 21, 2006 11:39 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Perception of color, Re: [h-cost] Princess Elizabeth

At 16:01 21/02/2006, you wrote:
Fabric dyes vary in their resistance to color 
change.  Some dyes change color, some just fade, 
some do both.  It also depends upon the fabric 
itself; in my experience cottons and linens tend 
to hold their colors better than silks.  Wools 
have held their colors well.  I had some acetate 
plaid taffeta that changed color while stored in 
a dark closet under fairly constant climatic 
conditions.  So synthetics, in my experience, 
have the worst survival characteristics.

Pigments for painting are generally minerals, so 
the colors have a better chance to survive 
intact, although where some organic pigments are 
used, they can fade/change just like 
fabric.  There are some minerals that do change 
color due to chemical reactions with air, though 
modern analytic techniques can determine what 
the original mineral was and restore the proper 
color.  The usual reason for color changes in 
portraits are the accumulation of dust, soot, 
etc., on the surface and earlier attempts to 
protect the painting with varnish, which often darkens with age.

According to QEWU The deep pink gown is 
fashionably cut and the material is described in 
the records of Edward Vl's collection of pictures 
the ladye Elizabeth her grace with a booke 
in her hande her gowne like crymsen clothe of 
golde with workes. Just o confuse matters you 
understand. When I was at college we went to see 
the portraits at Windsor, and this was always 
referred to as the Pink Princess, which tends 
to make me think that we all saw it as a pink dress.

Suzi

Hi,
Ah yes, and the purple wheelfarthingale dress i 
made for Castle Selsø has turned brownish grey :-)
Anyway it was a dupioni silk, and they dont 
hold their colours very long. Dress was exhibited in a room with morning sun.

Bjarne


Re the perception of color in these portraits:
For you who do dyeing (Natural or otherwise) did the color of dyed textiles
of the past change because of exposure to sunlight or was there some
chemical element that was not always stable and would mute or even mutate
over a period of time.  In the present world, I have seen color changes on
bolts and even garments that have never seen the light of day go entirely
from one color to another.
For instance, there is a certain grey from the middle of the 20th C, that
seems to change to pink within a 40 yr. span.  My daughters pale blue
taffeta promgown from the 1990s is now a sort of interesting pale rose.  I
have a bolt of rayon velvet from the'70s that is presently an interesting
shade of lavender.

In reference to these portraits under discussion, might the colors on the
canvas have changed, or the garments themselves have been 'changeable'?

kathleen


Misremembering happens to all of us! g Seriously, though, it could be
two
different copies--I know that some of the portraits of Elizabeth I (as
queen) and her sister, Mary, were done multipe times--there's that great
chapter in QEUnlocked that talks about them.  So it could be that,
especially since so many of our details are similar.  And maybe it
explains
why some of the reproductions seem so pink and others more orange? I don't
know about yours--we only had time for the National Gallery of Art
(which
was on its last day of a Truly Cool Exhibit on Fabric in Portraits), and
didn't make it over to the Portrait Gallery.  Well, maybe we could have,
if
I hadn't been making a complete pig of myself in the bookstore. weg
I've seen monochrome embroidery done in red in a couple of portraits in my
books, and a little of it in the Textile Rooms at the VA.  A friend of
mine
says it's known as morisco work (spelling optional at this time of the
evening ;o) I *think* I've got a copy of a painting of Mary I with red
embroidery somewhere.  I *think.*  (sorry...bad case of chocolate cravings
paired with knitting fatigue from the Knitting Olympics! LOL!)


 
   When did you see it in the Portrait 
 Gallery? I was in England in   2002,
and
   saw the painting at Windsor.  The dress was screaming pink, no orange
to
   it
   at all.
   The forepart and undersleeves are made of a gold pile/cream base cut
and
   voided velvet, although I suspect that the pile, in this case, is
gold
   thread (looks distinctly metallic).
   --Sue, wondering if there are two of them out there
 
  Hmmm...maybe I was mistaken.  I know I saw the Princess Mary Tudor
  portrait while I was there.  I thought I saw the Elizabeth one, too.
 
  But seeing the Mary Tudor portrait in person was pretty cool because I
  discovered that her chemise had redwork on 

Re: FW: [h-cost] modes and manners

2006-02-20 Thread ruthanneb
It might be useful to Bjarne to know that in 1775 in England, at least, 
hand-kissing was not necessarily literal. Witness this dialogue from Richard 
Brinsley Sheridan's The Rivals. Bob Acres, a country squire eager to appear 
sophisticated during a visit to Bath, is meeting with his acquaintance Sir 
Lucius O'Trigger, a landed Irish gentleman of old-fashioned manners:

Enter Sir Lucius.
SIR LUCIUS: Mr. Acres, I am delighted to embrace you.
ACRES: My dear Sir Lucius, I kiss your hands.

It is probable that no embracing or hand-kissing actually takes place, but that 
these are merely verbal expressions of good-will. (Indeed, the moment on stage 
is much more delicious if the two gentlemen making these statements are 
standing half a room apart!)
So between a gentleman and a lady in 1775 I would imagine (on this theatrical 
basis) that hand-kissing would be essentially a courtly gesture rather than 
necessarily a lip-to-flesh experience, and bowing low over the lady's hand 
would do.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


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Re: [h-cost] colors (was colonial)

2006-02-16 Thread ruthanneb
Not period maybe, but with deep purple-blue as accent color I'd go silver for 
the white-ish color. And I agree with Dawn about touches of an intermediate 
blue or blues, or, to my taste, violet.
Just two cents' worth...
Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 15, 2006 12:16 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] colors (was colonial)

Diana Habra wrote:

Oooo wedding dress!:) What color?
De
 
 
 Well, that has been the hardest part.  I want to do a white-ish color
 white, cream, chanpagne, etc.) but my accent color is a deep purple-blue. 
 I originally intended to make it white with the blue accents but the
 contrast is so big!  I am still trying to figure out how to do it.
 

Yellow? Maybe a paler yellow, but not too light. Get some shades of blue 
  that graduate up to your darkest color, to soften the contrast.



Dawn


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Re: [h-cost] about jas townsend

2006-02-06 Thread ruthanneb
Hi, Bjarne. I'm not in Europe, but I've ordered from Jas Townsend in the past, 
particularly stockings and hat blanks. I ordered by telephone and found the 
company very helpful and accommodating. I also had a short deadline for the 
stockings etc., and they made my deadline easily. You'd probably have to pay 
extra shipping costs, but if they say they can meet your deadline I believe 
they will. You should phone them if possible, though, so you can talk to a 
person and discuss your needs.

Of course I can't say if my experience is typical, but I can attest to their 
excellent service in that one experience.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 6, 2006 10:48 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] about jas townsend

Hi,
Sorry about this but i wondered if any europeans have ordered from him, Jas 
Townsend. How fast does he ship to Europe.
Do you think i could order some stockings and have them here in cirka 14 
days?

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image

2006-02-05 Thread ruthanneb
It looks to me like an add-on, too--an applied exaggerated collar (fur?), most 
likely, considering how well it fits the neck edge of the gown. (Those points 
would have been the envy of Carnaby Street back in the 'Sixties!) It doesn't 
look like a turn-back of the gown's natural edge.
I initially thought of a separate mini-surplice-like thing, but how it would 
maintain its shape and also line up along the neck edge I don't know.
I know nothing of this illustrator--did he reliably work from original 
illustrations such as paintings and illuminations, or was he one of the 
nineteenth-century fact-plus-imagination types?
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Lloyd Mitchell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 5, 2006 8:16 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image

Here's a wild guess.
The answer might  be cued from the piece of paper in his hand.  Since the
rest of the people in the scene seem to be laborers, the man in the robe
could be what we might now call a foreman of some sort.  The part of the
garment that has the effect of a yoke appears to me to be separate add-on.
There seem to be no gather as we see in later images of the robes that
became academic or judicial garb of honor.

Kathleen

- Original Message - 
From: Dawn [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] interpretation of an image


 Kimiko Small wrote:

  http://www.kismeta.com/diGrasse/Matejko/1470guild.jpg
 
 
  It looks to me to be a scholars gown, with black velvet perhaps for the
  upper body area, and maybe guards down the front. However, since the
  shadows are also in the same/similar darker pencil lines, I am not
  positive if that isn't just to represent shadows as well.
 


 It's that upper part I'm concerned about. I don't see yokes in men's
 clothing this early, and it's been suggested to me that this gown has a
 yoke. Even as a re-drawing, I'm hesitant to say that's why the top part
 is darker. I'm thinking it's just been colored badly.

 Unless someone knows of a real example of a yoked gown from the 1400's


 Dawn


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Re: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket

2006-02-04 Thread ruthanneb
This seems like a very period solution, Bjarne!
Have a wonderful time. We'll be looking forward to photos.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 4, 2006 7:57 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] williamsburg jacket

... i will embroider new undercuff pieces and replace the old ones




Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] History of the Parasol

2006-02-01 Thread ruthanneb
REALLY interesting article!
Two little nits--when you mention parare, to shield in the etymology of 
parasol, you should also mention sol, sun.
And please, in possessive form of it, NO apostrophe.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy (English) and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: mlysett [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jan 31, 2006 10:27 PM
To: h-costume@mail.indra.com
Subject: [h-cost] History of the Parasol

Hi all,

I've recently written an article on the history of the parasol through
the 16th and early 17th centuries.  

Over the last 4 or 5 years, reenactors and faire people have repeatedly
told me parasols aren’t period.  I've had the evidence to support
their use for at least as long, but I finally decided to make a formal
article about it.  

Although I am selling items elsewhere on this site, my goal with this
article wasn't to sell more, but to provide reenactors with the
evidence to dispel this particular myth.  So, I invite anyone
interested to have a look.  You may check out the article at
http://www.margaretroedesigns.com/parasolhist.html.

I will be forwarding this article to several lists during the next few
days, so I apologize if you receive this several times. 

I hope you all enjoy,
Margaret Roe


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Re: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie

2006-02-01 Thread ruthanneb
She looks beautiful--so simple and elegant. What are the fabrics, do you know?
Thanks!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Feb 1, 2006 11:11 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] wedding dress of prinsesse Sofie

Hi sorry.
There are more pictures of the dress if you go to:
http://www.ses.dk/58000a/GSID/661100
Scroll down and there are 2 links written in blue.
The first gives pictures of the opening of the exhibition with pictures of 
the dress,  the second link is a windows movieclip about the wedding..

Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Style, Nostalgic Needle, Sharon Cohen

2006-01-30 Thread ruthanneb
I agree with Ann. I used Safari on a Mac OS X and it was fine--pages loaded 
very quickly. The colors were quite nice for me, and the design of the pages 
was clear and consistent. I liked the stitch listings (is there really a stitch 
called bukkion, though? I'd have thought bullion, but I'm not an advanced 
student of embroidery!
Order and contact information are really needed for this appetizing 
presentation.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jan 30, 2006 12:58 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Elizabethan Style, Nostalgic Needle, Sharon Cohen

 
In a message dated 1/29/2006 8:37:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

would  appreciate any input on it would like to 
 find out how fast   it displays on as many different browsers as 
  possible.



I use Internet Explorer and it was fine.  And I think the colors work  
okay--obviously, you are echoing the colors in the purse.  I think the  green 
background is fine--from one comment, I was expecting something much  brighter 
than 
what I saw--and the button color is okay, albeit perhaps a tad  bright, but 
trying to match the colors from your photo was, I'm sure, a  challenge and you 
may not be able to get an exact match.  I personally  think a 
patterned/textured background is not necessary, as the needlework is the  
star--some textured 
backgrounds are just too busy and make the text hard to  read.
 
Just my opinion.
 
Ann Wass
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Re: [h-cost] prices

2006-01-27 Thread ruthanneb
Bjarne, I agree with Fran. This is beautifully conceived and beautifully 
executed work on a piece of usable art. While as a shopper I might wish for a 
lower price, as a serious purchaser I would expect to pay well over $100 for 
such an item. You don't want to underprice your artistry OR your labor.

Of course there's nothing to prevent you from once in awhile adjusting a price 
for a special customer or for a particular market. But if you're going to make 
these to sell, price them according to their value in your eyes. As Fran says, 
purchasers in the group you've identified as your target will really determine 
their market value.

I myself will start putting money aside to one day buy one of these!

--Ruth Anne

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Jan 27, 2006 12:42 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] prices

Basically, the bag is worth whatever people are willing to pay you for 
it.  Also, you can sometimes make more money selling to fewer people at 
a higher price, than you can to more people at a lower price.  I'd 
certainly recommend that strategy for one-of-a-kind handmade items.  
Presumably you don't have time to make all that many, and consequently 
don't need a huge number of customers.  If these are made by US 
residents and for sale rather than as homemade gifts, they are usually 
very expensive.

You need to find the segment of the market that will pay what you 
charge--anyone who wants items priced like India imports is not your 
maket--and concentrate on that.

I don't know what your bag looks like, but I personally would not expect 
to pay _less_ than $100 for a hand-embroidered item that is not a cheap 
import.

Note that hobbyist costumers fall into two categories--the kind who will 
spend almost all their spare cash on their hobby, and the kind who want 
or need to do everything at the lowest possible price.  You want to 
target the first category.

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www/lavoltapress.com

Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

 Hi
 Just curious,
 I know that things are cheap in america, but also wages are cheap
 Here in Eurpe, we pay 25% for all goods and pay almost 45% from our 
 income.
 This makes everything expenive
 Do you consider my bag for 100 dollars cheap or expensive?
 Globalisations is catching up on us.
 God or bad?

 Bjarne

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Re: [h-cost] Holiday gifts

2005-12-28 Thread ruthanneb
Costume-related: one of my sisters gave me half a yard of deep claret cotton 
velvet for costumes--she said it was an odd present, but I can already think 
of three ways I could use it for this summer's production!

Textile: my other sister gave me a throw, Lord Ganesha batiked on hand-woven 
cotton (made in India)--Ganesh happens to be this agnostic's (i.e., my) 
favorite god and also looms large in my legend since I have directed two 
productions of Terrence McNally's A Perfect Ganesh.

Sewing: my sister-in-law gave me a small three-drawer chest which will sit on 
my sewing table and hold, probably, 1) snaps, 2) hooks, and 3) decorative 
fasteners.

MOST EXCELLENT: Kimiko Small was my h-cost santa. I'll post a picture of what 
she sent so that all can enjoy it; for now, I'll quote the description she 
included: The sweet-bag style purse is hand made by me. It is made of black 
cotton velvet, with gold metallic dupionni silk applique, couched by hand with 
red silk cord. Freshwater pearls, red glass seed beads and a dark red garnet 
bead add final touches to the applique. The gold cording closure is held in 
place by hand-sewn loops. The bag is lined with red silk shantung.  I will 
carry this when I serve as Queen at a medieval/ren banquet fundraiser late in 
January. As a creation and as an accessory, its value to me goes FAR beyond the 
h-cost exchange limit!

Ending of semester (English prof!) plus a holiday production outpaced my 
imagination, and I santa-ed a gift certificate from a supplier I'm confident my 
partner can use. But wish I had been able to rise to the level of creativity 
I'm seeing in so many of the gift descriptions!

In the next few days (as soon as I get the thing uploaded) I'll be posting a 
link to a photo I took after our recent (early December) snowfall. It will 
serve as my holiday greeting card to you all

Meanwhile, ho ho ho!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer 

-Original Message-
From: Lavolta Press [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 27, 2005 12:30 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Holiday gifts

Are we not going to have the traditional discussion of what 
costume-related gifts everyone got?

Fran
Lavolta Press
http://www.lavoltapress.com
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[h-cost] OT:wonderful weird headline

2005-12-19 Thread ruthanneb
Hello the list.

My attention was first drawn to this headline in a local (Stratford, CT) paper 
because of the faulty possessive noun and the interesting choice of singular 
verb.
BUT my attention was then rewarded by realizing that this sports headline 
manages to use two words (out of a total of five) that also are items of 
women's historical costume.
So I thought you would all enjoy pondering this:

STRATFORD GIRLS HOOPS STAYS UNBEATEN

For those of you unfamiliar with American sports lingo, the Girls' Basketball 
Team of Stratford High School continues its winning streak.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
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RE: [h-cost] For the costumers

2005-12-16 Thread ruthanneb
This is an Unemployed Philosophers Guild product. They have a Beanie-Baby-style 
van Gogh doll with a detachable ear, a Global Warming mug that shows the 
predicted new coastlines when you fill it with hot coffee, a Scream pillow that 
does scream (and a Mona Lisa pillow that giggles), and Freudian Slippers with a 
sock-toe tongue protruding from Freud's mouth. Among many other punny, arch 
products. Character cards with stick-on appropriate quotations--including Jane 
Austen, fyi! They also have two different sets of Axis of Evil 
finger-puppets--choose according to your political inclinations
   They're constantly adding to their line, and revising it too, at least if 
you consider that the Shakespeare Brainy Baby is now on his fourth costume 
design. I've given my artist friend Frieda Kahlo as well as van Gogh. I've got 
Shakespeare (2 different outfits); a friend gave me the Great Writers 
finger-puppet set. I've given my niece Jane Austen and my sister, a biologist, 
Charles Darwin. I'm hoping somebody will give me Eleanor Roosevelt and Che this 
Christmas!
   If you like their sense of humor (and I confess I LOVE it with all my 
overeducated heart!), you can spend a lot of money with them. I haven't tumbled 
for the St. Sebastian pincushion yet, but it does look JUST like the painting, 
and I've found the painting perversely charming, with his faint little grin 
(ecstasy, I presume) and all, for years. As a Protestant/agnostic and lit major 
I take great pleasure in the various saints and feel free to find them bizarre. 
A friend of mine suggested that we start a pub on the Canadian border and call 
it the St. Lawrence Bar and Grill. Talk about Eeuw!
   Anyway, I assure all that I have no connection with the Unemployed 
Philosophers Guild except as a chronic customer. They have a website, in case 
you want to revel in their wierdness--or spend some money to make your 
overeducated friends laugh.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 15, 2005 11:15 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [h-cost] For the costumers

Oh how tacky. The things people create to sell.

-Original Message-
http://www.philosophersguild.com/index.lasso? 
page_mode=Product_Detailitem=0195

St. Sebastian pincushion... you know you want one.
I know I do!

griz



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Re: [h-cost] historical action figures

2005-12-15 Thread ruthanneb
In fact, the lederhosen is THE gift for my brother-in-law, who's usually quite 
difficult to shop for!
Thanks for this site--I've dropped a few bucks but it was a lot of fun. I do 
wish Wilde had been more accessorized, but I'm not sure what I would have 
added. Perhaps a lace handkerchief.
I direct a staged-readings series and wish I had had the Poe action figure to 
sit by our mailing-list sign-up when we did Jeffrey Hatcher's MURDER BY POE 
this past October!
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 15, 2005 12:44 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] historical action figures

At 17:25 15/12/2005, you wrote:
I had to snicker over this blurb from the Marie Antoinette doll, er figure:

This 5-1/2 tall, hard vinyl figure features amazing Ejector Head 
Action, and comes with a removable plastic wig and dress.

I'm very taken with the lederhosen!

http://www.mcphee.com/items/11138.html

Suzi 


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Re: [h-cost] eBay Listing Removed: Keyword Spamming

2005-12-07 Thread ruthanneb
Uh-oh. Where does that leave such items as Eisenhower jackets, Peter Pan 
collars, Eton jackets, Mae Wests (life preservers), and other eponymous 
garments?   ;.}

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: A  J Garden [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Dec 7, 2005 2:38 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] eBay Listing Removed: Keyword Spamming 

Hi, just want to warn others - I got this message tonight - I did not 
realise I was spamming. What are your thoughts? I make Regency dresses 
for sale.
Thanks, Aylwen Garden

 Original Message 
Subject:eBay Listing Removed: Keyword Spamming (=LS 7193 JM5023424)
Date:   Tue, 06 Dec 2005 21:22:44 PST
From:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]



Dear cottager87,

We appreciate that you chose eBay to list the following multiple item 
listing(s):

8359259226 - Regency Dress: Jane Austen 1800s Pride  Prejudice Gown


However, your listing was in violation of eBay's Keyword Spamming policy and 
has been removed from eBay.  We have credited all associated fees to your 
account and notified eBay users associated with the transaction that it has 
been cancelled.

  We would like to take this opportunity to let you know what part of your 
listing is not permitted.

Your listing(s) contains the following information:

In Title:
Jane Austen 1800s Pride  Prejudice


Keyword spamming is not permitted on eBay.  This typically occurs when members 
place brand names or other inappropriate keywords in a title or description for 
the purpose of gaining attention or diverting members to a listing.

* Use of Brand Names: Our policy does not permit members to include any brand 
names in the listing title other than the specific brand name used by the 
company that manufactured or produced the item being offered in the listing.

* Custom-made items: Although an item may be fabricated to visually match a 
specific product line of a recognized brand name, members are not permitted to 
include the name of the product line, or the related brand name in the listing 
title.

* Use of Celebrity or Artist Names:   At present, our policy does not permit 
members to include celebrity names, or the names of artists, authors, or other 
known figures in the listing title other than the specific celebrity or known 
figure that has created, written or officially endorsed the item being offered 
in the listing.  From the perspective of our policy, celebrity names are 
treated as being synonymous with brand names.

This means that although a celebrity may have worn a similar item, or made such 
an item popular in current pop-culture, members are not permitted to use the 
names of these celebrities or known figures in the listing title.  

Our policy permits a seller to use *one* name as a comparison within the 
subtitle or description section of the listing.
For more information on Keyword Spamming visit the following Help page:


http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/keyword-spam.html


Please note: violation of this or other eBay policies may result in forfeit of 
eBay fees on cancelled listings, limits on account privileges and account 
suspension.


Please review eBay's Listing Policies and User Agreement at the following 
locations:

  http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/policies.html
  http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/user-agreement.html

For more information on why eBay removes multiple item listings, or to write to 
us with questions, please review the following Web page:

  http://pages.ebay.com/help/confidence/listing-ended.html

We thank you in advance for your cooperation.

Regards,

eBay Trust  Safety


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Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns

2005-11-30 Thread ruthanneb
Can't you turn the seam allowance under for the elastic casing, and then leave 
that bit of the seam open when you sew the side seam? It could be hand-finished 
once the elastic was properly sized and stitched, no? I'm trying to think 
three-dimensionally here, and I THINK I have done this once or twicewhen I 
was in some kind of pinch or anotherBecause I use my costumes over and 
over, I use elastic whenever I can, particularly on breeches and waistbands, 
and I like to just tie the elastic so that it can be re-sized for the next 
character the next yearand what I THINK I'm describing is one way to keep 
access to the ends of the elastic.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 30, 2005 8:02 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] A Rant about commercial patterns

 
In a message dated 11/30/2005 6:31:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

KL  tips!! 


Yes, thanks all for the suggestions.  Unfortunately, none of them work  for 
this particular project.  I've found that, with size 3 garments, I  can't set 
the sleeve in the round.  Therefore, I sew the sleeve to the  bodice flat, 
then insert the elastic, then sew the side seams.  So leaving  the elastic 
unfinished, or using ribbon, doesn't work this time.  But I  might plan a way 
to 
use the ribbon next time.
 
Ann Wass
 
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Re: [h-cost] Working with velvet

2005-11-29 Thread ruthanneb
I usually put tissue paper between the layers. That discourages creep and also 
seems to enable the pile to move out of the way of the needle rather than 
getting squished under the thread, so the seam doesn't really show after 
sewing. But I haven't got a trick to deal with thickness, other than gritting 
my teeth, muttering under my breath, and pushing the fabric that's under the 
presser foot down as hard as I can with my forefingers! --That, or sew it by 
hand.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 28, 2005 11:46 PM
To: h-cost [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Working with velvet

Anyone have some favorite velvet tricks they'd like to share? It's
been ages since I worked with the stuff.

I'm particularly concerned about dealing with areas where multiple
layers meet.  I'm doing an early Stuart informal doublet with set in
sleeves and epaulettes.  That's a lot of layers.  In wool, I'd just
grade down the interfacing then steam it to a fair-thee-well and whack
the whole think with a clapper.  If I do that on velvet I'll have a
nasty squished mess.

Got any hints?
--cin
Cynthia Barnes
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

2005-11-23 Thread ruthanneb
Bjarne, I'm with you on this basically. It seems to me that the music, or the 
words (in the case of a play), should be seen as part of a whole world being 
created, and that world also includes what the eye sees--costumes, set, even 
the actor's gestures. Once in a while a production comes along where the beauty 
of the language or the music or something in the theme is highlighted by, or 
given a new focus by, costumes or setting from another time, or from no time 
at all (that is, maybe black slacks and sweaters on all the actors, set made of 
movable cubes, etc.)--but most of the time when the production designer or 
director changes the time period of the set and costumes, the music or language 
sounds odd or the audience is confused or distracted by the changes.

I blame a few things. 
--First of all, it's hard to raise money to do a production if all you're 
planning to do is the show as written. Every time I get ready to direct a 
Shakespeare play, people ask me What's your concept? and they mean, how are 
you going to change things to make this different and new? Investors probably 
are more eager for that than the general public.
--Second, some directors don't consider it very creative to just do the show 
as it was originally conceived by the playwright or composer. They want to make 
their mark on it.
--Third, unfortunately, there's a lot of condescension on the part of the art 
community toward the general public. A British actor was in residence at 
Williams College here a few years ago and directed a production of Richard 
Brinsley Sheridan's The Rivals (1775). I went because I had just done a 
production of that myself and was curious as to how ours would measure up. 
Well, I HATED his production--it was camped up, a broad sex scene was put in, 
a lot of slapstick and sight gags were added. The audience did laugh a lot, but 
I and the actors who had come along with me were very disappointed. The show 
itself is very very funny--it doesn't need all that low comedy thrown in. When 
I got home I looked at the program and noticed that he had given a talk there 
at the theater one day, called Adapting The Rivals for the Modern Audience. 
So you see he obviously believed that a modern audience wouldn't get The 
Rivals as originally conceived. But I can tell you that the audiences!
  that came to see MY The Rivals laughed and laughed and said the play was 
wonderful. They didn't need to be condescended to.

Well, I do think that experimenting is a healthy thing in art. But I also think 
people have to keep in mind what they're doing it for, and also remember that 
the piece they're working with has been around for a long time without their 
interference.

What a shame that such a rare opportunity to see a Monteverdi opera wasn't used 
to show the audience what the original experience was really like. This isn't 
to say that older works of art should be treated like museum pieces, but just 
that they should be respected in themselves, and audiences should be respected 
enough to be trusted with them.

Well, that's my opinionated opinion, anyway!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 23, 2005 3:04 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] theater opera costumes in general

Hi the list.
I went to an opera with the oldest opera ever performed, Monteverdis 
Olysses.
Music and orchestra was very impressive but the costumes!
I would like to ask you who might makes costumes for stage, why does it have 
to be modern and artistic?
I have the feeling it is an intempt to try to drag more people to come to 
theaters, that they make the costumes modern and artistic.
I am totally disagreable in this, i hate the very guts of those stupid, and 
tedious scenografers, who destroys my want to go and have a fantastic time, 
i was so disapointed and i could just as well have gone to a cd shop and buy 
the opera, and stay home.
What are your oppinons about this, why in heavens name dont they make period 
costumes, what is wrong with this, and would the modern audiense hate this?

Bjarne...

Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] chemise construktion

2005-11-15 Thread ruthanneb
Bjarne, my reply about the lace frills is from a costumer and considers 
practicality rather than necessarily being authentic, but for what it's worth:
I always edge the chemise in lace rather than sewing the lace to the dress, 
because the chemise is much easier to launder. With the actresses in make-up, 
the lace gets soiled easily but the dress usually stays pretty clean, and if 
the actress perspires this also affects the chemise much more than the costume, 
so washing the chemise keeps the whole costume looking clean and smelling 
fresh. Depending on how carefully the actress dresses, the lace edging may or 
may not be as precisely lined up with the sleeve and neckline edges as you'd 
want, but the ease of care is more important to me.
--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Nov 15, 2005 11:14 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] chemise construktion

Hi,
I am a little embarrased to ask, because i really aught to know and have 
made this before, but actually i never made a chemise before because i 
always just edged my dresses with lace.
But i want to construkt after Jean Hunniset's chemise.
My lady meassures 21 inches from under the arms and over the bust. I suppose 
this should be my meassure for the front and back pieces then + 2 inches for 
movement.
Is this correkt?
Do you think i should add the lace frills to the sleaves, or should i just 
sew it to the dress sleaves?



Bjarne





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] my new suit

2005-10-25 Thread ruthanneb
These colors are wonderful together, Bjarne--and using the taffeta is very 
resourceful. Can't wait to see the finished suit!
How is your wrist healing, by the way?

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Oct 25, 2005 9:02 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] my new suit

Hi,
I have uploaded a picture of the silks i want to use on the new suit. First 
to the right is the ribbed silk, second is a silk taffeta wich is very close 
to the colour of the ribbed silk, wich i will make a border of each side of 
the jacket to embroider on. It is very difficult to embroider on the ribbed 
silk, so that is why i use the taffeta. Finally to the right is the dark 
grey silk taffeta for the waistcoat.
http://www.my-drewscostumes.dk/mixedsilksuit..htm
Bjarme





Leif og Bjarne Drews
www.my-drewscostumes.dk

http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/ 


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Re: [h-cost] why renaissance and not 18th century?

2005-09-22 Thread ruthanneb
I think we in the U.S. may also have an actual TRADITION of Ren faires, whereas 
reenactments of our own country's history are a more recent phenomenon. 

According to James D. Hart's THE POPULAR BOOK: A HISTORY OF AMERICA'S LITERARY 
TASTE (University of California Press, 1950), the novels of Sir Walter Scott 
were wildly popular with American readers. They were adapted into plays 
(Ivanhoe in 1820 and within the next twelve years six more of his novels and 
two of his poems), and the Gothic settings of his novels influenced 
architecture and landscape design especially in the American South. According 
to Hart, Although only four or five of Scott's novels dealth with the Middle 
Ages, the South thought of him as the romancer of chivalry. When he died the 
Louisiana Courier asked sadly, 'Who shall now depict the feudal castle--the 
time worn turret--the feats of warrior knights--the conflicts of the 
tournaments--the battles against the infidels?'... the Southern patricians 
enjoyed a kind of juvenile imitation of [these events] in the tournaments they 
instituted in the 1840s. Nothing quite like their tilting with lances at a 
suspended!
  ring was to be found in Scott's pages but the spirit of the contest was his. 
A South Carolina newspaper announced one as copying 'closely in dresses and 
arrangements...those that Ivanhoe withnessed'; contestants frequently took such 
titles as Waverly, Ivanhoe, The Disinherited Knight, and Peveril of the 
Peak...and the affairs were furbished with Queens of Honour, pseudo-medieval 
costume, and all the other trappings of romance identified with a Scott 
tourneyScott was influential because his fiction was in accord with the 
region's general attitude of mind

And since the medieval world was heavily fantasized in Scott's novels, it's 
easy to see how those tournaments would be celebrations of Days of Yore 
rather than historical reenactments!

I suspect that Americans in general secretly wish for the trappings of royalty 
even if they don't want an actual king! We do have some wonderful reenactment 
groups and places (in the East, Plimouth Plantation, Colonial Williamsburg, 
Mystic Seaport, for instance) that do Colonial (1640s to 1770s), Revolutionary, 
and 19th century, and (to judge from this list) some serious Renaissance groups 
as well, but the Ren fairs seem to be a different phenomenon altogether, and 
what Hart has to say suggests that this is the older and deeper attachment.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer


-Original Message-
From: Bjarne og Leif Drews [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sep 22, 2005 9:33 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] why renaissance and not 18th century?

Gold rush it is§   :-)

I like silk the better!





- Original Message - 
From: Deredere Galbraith [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, September 22, 2005 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] why renaissance and not 18th century?


 M...
 Gold rush?
 I think they just love the colour of gold.
 And there is a lot more gold in 16th century dresses than in 18 thcentury 
 dresses.
 :-) :-D ;-) :-P



 Bjarne og Leif Drews wrote:

 Why is it that America has such a great market for 18th century 
 reenacters and not so many of 18th century?
 I have no clues, could anybody enlighten me?

 Bjarne





 Leif og Bjarne Drews
 www.my-drewscostumes.dk

 http://home0.inet.tele.dk/drewscph/

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Re: [h-cost] Bjarne

2005-09-03 Thread ruthanneb
May I echo Chris and Lalah, and further suggest (in the great American 
tradition of free speech) that anyone who has shared hundreds of pieces of 
useful costume information and dozens of beautiful and inspiring pictures of 
finished costumes and works-in-progress can be considered to have earned the 
right to express one political opinion a year on this list.

I haven't earned that right yet, but would be delighted to discuss politics 
off-list any time!

Meanwhile, thank you, Bjarne, for your concern for the people in this country.

And my own deepest sympathy for those affected by this disaster, both those in 
Katrina's zone and their loved ones and associates.

Ruth Anne Baumgartner
gypsy scholar and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sep 3, 2005 9:56 AM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Bjarne

I second that and Thank You Lalah for wording it so much better than I would 
have/could have.  
 
I can NOT imagine Bjarne ever being rude and I realize we've never met nor 
probably ever will, but his whole demeanor online has always been respectful 
IMHO.
 
Christine Gallucci

Lalah [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I know this isn't costume related and I am not one of the
popular people on this list, but I just couldn't keep
quiet. The message Bjarne sent sounded like he was more
surprised than critical, and give the guy credit - he writes
better English than most of us do Danish. I wish I could speak
any other language as well as he does. I know that many of us
have family or dear friends in the areas hit and are a bit on
edge right now, but it isn't fair to take it out on someone who
was making an honest mistake. People the world over think
that we in the United States are all rich - if you watch TV at
all you will understand why. I do believe he was trying to be
sympathetic and now he is just being quiet while he is being
blasted.

I, for one, admire his attempts at English and his wonderful
handwork and costuming. I would sorely miss him if he left the
list.

Lalah, Never give up, Never surrender


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Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't 
matter and those who matter don't mind.
  Dr. Seuss
 
Our greatest glory is not in never failing, 
but in rising up every time we fail. 
Ralph Waldo Emerson




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Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses

2005-08-29 Thread ruthanneb
Take a look at Kurosawa's RAN or THRONE OF BLOOD. Yards and yards!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: Carolyn Kayta Barrows [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Aug 29, 2005 4:58 PM
To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Question Sari fabric and Victorian dresses


After all, they made bustle gowns out of kimonos,  y'know.

I'm sure you meant kimono fabric.  There's hardly enough material in one 
kimono to make a 2005 dress, let alone anything more voluminous.


CarolynKayta Barrows
dollmaker, fibre artist, textillian
  www.FunStuft.com

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Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores

2005-08-12 Thread ruthanneb
The Folkwear choli pattern (which compares, by the way, quite favorably with 
cholis I have had made in India) includes step-by-step illustrated directions 
for wrapping two different styles of sari.
If you really want to have some fun, you can get Chantal Boulanger's book 
Saris: An Illustrated Guide to the Indian Art of Draping. I ordered this a 
year or two ago on recommendation from somebody on this list--maybe that person 
still has the author's website, from which I ordered directly. Publisher is 
Shakti Press International, 33 Greyhound Rd., London W6 8NH, GB. The ISBN is 
0-9661496-1-0. She includes a CD. The book provides a wonderful historical 
discussion of wrapped clothing and illustrations for many many regional, 
religious, and/or class variations on the sari. All have detailed illustrated 
directions. From this book I learned to wrap the Chettiyar dhoti, which my 
Ganesha wore in my recent production of A Perfect Ganesh. Indian audience 
members were delighted with what they considered the ultimate accurate detail, 
and in fact one woman said she came to the show because she saw the publicity 
picture and was impressed with Ganesha's dhoti.

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Aug 12, 2005 9:32 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re: Indian Fabric Stores

 
In a message dated 8/12/2005 9:11:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Folkwear  doesn't really have a pattern for a Sari, it is simply a really 
long  rectangle? I'm such a visual person that I was hoping there was a simple  
step-by-step website out there.






Check this out:
 
_SAREE WORLD -- Sari, Saree,  Sarees, saris, silk sarees (sari), kanchipuram 
sar_ (http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html)  
_http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html_ (http://www.sareeworld.com/sari.html) 
 
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