Re: [h-cost] Split drawer's expert?

2007-05-17 Thread sunshine_buchler
I'm neew to this list and have enjoyed learning a lot of different things. I do recreating the 1500's. I didn't realize that they had split drawers in the 16th cen. Do you have any historical evidence that they had them in the nobility class in the midto late 1500's, and what they

RE: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum

2007-02-12 Thread sunshine_buchler
Here is a picture of the fabric that's melting on my needle... http://oort.com/goddess/temp/temp.fabric.jpg I've worked with this stuff before - the problem is the glue that sticks the shiny bits onto stretchy fabric. I came up with 2 solutions - neither of which is perfect, but they might

[h-cost] Mid-20th c. evening wear fashion photos

2007-02-08 Thread sunshine_buchler
I'm a librarian looking for books of fashion photographs for one of my library customers. She is interested in women's evening wear of the 1940s and 1950s. Does anyone know of a good source or sources for this kind of information? There are a number of books I'd look at, depending on

[h-cost] RE: US source for a single copy of Moda a Firenze

2007-02-05 Thread sunshine_buchler
This is a little late, but in case someone WANTS _Moda a Firenze_ right now, I was in Lacis today, and they have a copy of it for sale (and they do mail order) - http://www.lacis.com/ I didn't check the price, since I already own a copy... -sunny

[h-cost] question about robe anglaise.

2007-01-28 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi Bjarne! I've recently done a c1776 robe anglaise, which is ~20 years before your dress, so take my references with a grain of salt. From a brief flip though my documentation binder, it seems very common to have side-back seams in the skirt - which fall approximately mid-way between the

[h-cost] American Civil War

2007-01-15 Thread sunshine_buchler
Actually, in my vintage collection (which includes 4 US Civ. War-ish period women's' bodices - could be a bit later, not 100% sure but they're late 60s at the worst) it's pretty evenly split whether it's left-on-top or right-on-top. So I think your idea is perfectly kosher. (I only noticed this

Re: victorian wedding clothes, was [h-cost] Another film

2007-01-04 Thread sunshine_buchler
I found it's usually respectable middle class that wears day dress (and probably working class too as I suspect there wasn't much opportunity to go to the opera or the odd ball) and the aristocracy could wear off the shoulder and the like. I was mostly looking at 1870s and 1880s

RE: victorian wedding clothes, was [h-cost] Another film costume rant

2007-01-03 Thread sunshine_buchler
Two programmes on British TV over Christmas showed Victorian brides in sleeveless dresses. One was the film of Nicholas Nickleby, the other a version of Dracula. Dammit, you wear DAY clothes to a wedding! (or used to.) I thought that too, however in my most recent research project

RE: [h-cost] 1870s buttons....

2007-01-03 Thread sunshine_buchler
I have a question for you 19th century types, born out of completely idle curiosity. This Christmas, I was given a lovely bracelet comprising different buttons from the 1870s. They are all about 1/2 inch in diameter, and have surprisingly complex and lovely designs in them. They are

[h-cost] RE: 1878 Janet Arnold dress

2006-12-06 Thread sunshine_buchler
I'm gearing up to make a new dress, and was wondering if anybody on here has made up the 1878 dress from Janet Arnold's Pattern of Fashion 2. (ha - rhetorical question - I'm sure somebody has!) I'm got a general idea of what I want out of the dress, and this seems to be closest to what I

RE: [h-cost] corset boning

2006-12-05 Thread sunshine_buchler
I've a question for all corset makers here: which kind of boning (steel or plastic) would you use for a Victorian - style corset (if not a real whalebone)? And generally, what experiences do you have when using steel or plastic boning? Do you mix them as well? I'd really like to

RE: [h-cost] Medieval Miscellanea #21

2006-08-28 Thread sunshine_buchler
Does anyone have any comments or observations on this pattern [Medieval Miscellanea #21, 14th and 15th century cotehardies]? I'm looking at view I. It's a find pattern for a modern princess seamed dress with lacing down the front. It's not a GFD at all. However, the pictures in the

Re: [h-cost] (Straight front) corset - fitting

2006-08-09 Thread sunshine_buchler
I've got another probably stupid question: How do you do the fitting??? I mean the corset is - at leat at the waist - much smaller than your real figure, so how can you actually try it on when not yet finished? It must be tight laced and there must be bones in it, else I cannot imagine

Re: [h-cost] Straight front corset (Waisted Efforts)

2006-08-08 Thread sunshine_buchler
Probably a stupid question, but how do you all develope the pattern for the different corsets you do? I prefer to start from an existing pattern - either from blowing up one of Waugh's _Corsets Crinolines_ patterns or from a commercial pattern (like Past Patterns) and then fit the heck out

Re: [h-cost] straight front corset

2006-08-04 Thread sunshine_buchler
A friend and I made me a corset from the Past Patterns straight front corset pattern. However, it was not a simple/easy project: 1) Following the initial sizing, did not give me the S-bend shape I was looking for -- we ended up making the top much more tight fitting then the bottom which

RE: [h-cost] bodiced petticoats

2006-07-24 Thread sunshine_buchler
The down side is that while I can now pattern it and it will fit under the dress I want to make - I can't decide how full the skirt should be. Any idea with yours? I'm starting from the skirt pattern of the dress I'm going to make (from _Moden 1790-1840_ by Ellen Andersen, can't

RE: [h-cost] Bodiced Petticoats - Regency

2006-07-18 Thread sunshine_buchler
I'm making a bodiced petticoat, based off of the picture in _The History of Underclothes_ by the Cunnington's. Unfortunately, it's from the 1820s but it was the only picture of a bodiced petticoat I could find (the others were all re-drawings), so that's why I went with that one. If you have

[h-cost] RE: Re: 1844 Corset Again-Busk Questions

2006-06-23 Thread sunshine_buchler
Are you talking about a modern spoon busk? I have heard they aren't like the actual spoon busks of the era. In fact most busks* were curved down the front (spoon or regular) before the straight busk came in in the 1890s, whereas now all busks are straight for recreations. Yes, it was

[h-cost] RE: Re: 1844 Corset Again-Busk Questions

2006-06-23 Thread sunshine_buchler
I've seen modern spoon busks that are flat in profile, is that what you used? Or did you use a curved one like they sell at farthingales? http://www.farthingales.on.ca/busks.php I've never tried using a spoon busk myself but have been toying with the idea, so hearing about other people's

[h-cost] RE: Re: 1844 Corset Again-Busk Questions

2006-06-22 Thread sunshine_buchler
I don't know if my comments will help at all, but I have a corset with a spoon busk and the front edge of that corset was straight too... It rounds around the outside of the busk, there's no real curve in the center section of the busk where the hooks and bulb-things meet. As a side note, I

[h-cost] RE: Regency Dress Closures (was back side lacing)

2006-03-20 Thread sunshine_buchler
This pink dress reminded me... a friend is making a Regency style gown, for a party so it doesn't have to be particularly authentic, but neither of us can work out - how/where do they fasten? Some have buttons down the centre back, but most don't seem to have any visible opening.

[h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice

2006-03-03 Thread sunshine_buchler
Thank you everyone for your help! Letting out the tops of the side seams just a smidge and then adding dress improvers seems to have done the trick :-) Thank you very much! -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

[h-cost] Fit of a victorian bodice

2006-03-02 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi, I'm making an 1865-70 bodice (first bustle era) starting from the Truly Victorian ball bodice pattern, and I'm having trouble with the fit around the armholes -- there's a horizontal stress line about 1/2 above the bottom of the armhole (right at the top of my corset) it extends about 3

[h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 207

2006-03-01 Thread sunshine_buchler
My comments are in reference to this site: http://www.ninyamikhaila.com/Princesselizabeth.html So what she has is: smock bodice and wool skirt petticoat farthingale kirtle/corset gown. Is this correct? I have alway thought it was: smock (maybe underwear) kirtle gown I'm hoping that

[h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 5, Issue 114

2006-02-07 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi everyone, I've just come to a question about period fastenings - when I'm making period costumes, I often never know what type of fastening shall I use. F.ex. the petticoats - were they fastened simply with a ribbon or a button or what? Does anyone know any web page or book or

[h-cost] RE: Moda a Firenze

2006-02-03 Thread sunshine_buchler
I bought my copy of _Moda a Firenze_ from Lacis (http://www.lacis.com/) in Berkeley CA, but I have heard they ran out... you could call and see if they got more in, as my info is a month old. Yesterday I noticed that Hedgehog Handworks (http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com/catalog/BKCT6001.shtml)

[h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread sunshine_buchler
I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting a second outfit. I've been thinking about trying to draft my own pattern - but haven't been really sure where to start. The other question, is whether to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then

[h-cost] RE: 16th Century Nationality Dress

2006-01-30 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi, based simply on my reading of _Moda di Firenze_ (sp?) I would rule out Italian because of the stiffness of the bodice and the fully covered neck-partlet area. At least Florentine fashions (according to Moda) have a softer bodice then Spanish, and they tend to have open necks or

RE; [h-cost] 17th Century French hunting dress

2006-01-17 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi! http://www.costumes.org/history/leloir/vol10/48_1692.jpg Can someone tell me about the sash she's wearing? What's it made of? Did it have a purpose, or did it just look pretty? Also, the skirt appears to be divided in the center front. Is it open to reveal a petticoat, or is

RE: [h-cost] Dress Dummy ...

2006-01-10 Thread sunshine_buchler
I'm wondering about how compressible that they are. Will she squish down indefinately with a corset? Say, should I have one that fits, and then lace her into it to *that* place because on her it will tighten far more than it does on me? I even wondered about making a couple of

RE: [h-cost] Cleveland, Ohio

2006-01-10 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi! I didn't see anyone else answer this so I'm going to take a stab -- I just moved to Cleveland though, so I may not be the best person :-) Unfortunately the Cleveland Museum of Art (which has a lovely armor collection) is mostly closed for the next 2 years :-(. They do have one (and only

RE: [h-cost] Houppelande with tie fastenings

2005-12-15 Thread sunshine_buchler
I don't know if the sleeve drape was like a lower circle sewn on, like you see on some young women's sleeves today, or if it was another sleeve like the angle-wing ones. This particular picture seems like it must be more like the circle-on-the-sleeve sort, but the TRH ones look a bit

RE: [h-cost] Houppelande with tie fastenings

2005-12-15 Thread sunshine_buchler
*cool* Are any of these images online anywhere? In my quick (~15 minutes) on-line search I didn't find anything. But I'm not very familiar with the on-line manuscript archives... My search was limited to goggling various terms. Sorry! I would've liked to have given links in my earlier

[h-cost] RE: h-costume Digest, Vol 4, Issue 784

2005-12-07 Thread sunshine_buchler
Good question. I know they make sergers, but evidently they make other sewing machines as well as other industrial equipment. I THINK they may have gotten into the domestic machine market after their beginnings in industrial machines. Anybody know? I have a non-industrial serger by

RE: [h-cost] name that garment

2005-12-03 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi! http://slumberland.org/moodle/mod/forum/discuss.php?d=864 I'd like to know the name of the dark grey/white piece on the woman in the second photo. It covers her head and shoulders. It's a hood, or medieval hood. Sometimes it's called a lirpipe (sp?) if there is a long tail hanging off

RE: [h-cost] Working with velvet

2005-11-29 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi Cin! Actually, you can steam velvet if you have one of 2 things: 1) a nail board -- this is the safest option, but they are very expensive, and tend to come in 4 square sizes, which are simply frustrating to work with. (IMHO) 2) You can iron and steam velvet if you put the pile face down

[h-cost] Cleveland?

2005-10-07 Thread sunshine_buchler
Hi! I'm moving from the San Francisco area to Cleveland in 2 weeks, and I was wondering if there is anyone else on this list in the Cleveland area? Cheers! -sunny ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com