Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
I think Jim Friesen's pressure cut-out switch was probably the correct diagnosis but ... I bypassed the crossover valve, connected a pressure gage, and did a road test. Plenty of boost (maybe too much, looked like 1 bar or more, so now I wonder if the waste gate is functioning). Then I reconnected the crossover valve and disconnected the pressure switch. Everything still worked fine, plenty of boost. So I reconnected the pressure switch and everything still worked fine. Rats. So the problem is intermittent. I'll just have to get the problem to repeat and then troubleshoot some more. Thanks for all the help. Jim Cathey's comment about positive feedback is spot on. You cannot test boost without load. Think I'll leave my hose and gage in the back seat for the next time this happens. Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 2:12 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost In a message dated 5/11/2006 9:55:52 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My 82 300SD (Garret turbo) suddenly lost turbo boost last weekend. The banjo fitting id not plugged and the circuit to the ALDA is not leaking. Measuring the manifold pressure, I get almost no boost until 3-4,000 rpm and then I get about 6 psi max. I don't see any obvious leaks in the intake or exhaust and I can hear the turbo turning. Any guesses on probable cause? I'm wondering if the waste gate is somehow suck open. I have noticed jerky boost at high power settings (boost cuts in and out near max power) in the past so I'm wondering if the waste gate may be sticking. And If it is a sticky waste gate ... what's the cure? Scott, #!. Look for loose nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the head, much pressure can be lost here. #2 Disconnect the single wire going to the pressure sensor on the intake manifold. It sounds like it may be defective and is cutting off your boost signal way too soon. You can drive it like that for testing purposes. #3. Run the boost sense line direct from the banjo to the ALDA, teeing into it right at the ALDA to verify the boost signal is getting to the ALDA. #4. Remove the U shaped pipe from the filter to the turbo so you can reach in and give the nose of the turbo a spin with your fingers. It won't spin much but should feel free, with no roughness. Wiggle the shaft side to side to see if you can make the impeller touch the housing. Some play is acceptable. Look for FOD, foreign object damage, on the parts of the impeller you can see. #5. If all looks good, adjust the screw on the top of the ALDA about 1 1/2 turns CCW to add more fuel, which will add more boost, which will add more fuel, etc. #6. Get back to the list with your findings. Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
on 5/15/06 7:03 PM, Scott Ritchey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So the problem is intermittent. I'll just have to get the problem to repeat and then troubleshoot some more. Thanks for all the help. Jim Cathey's comment about positive feedback is spot on. You cannot test boost without load. Think I'll leave my hose and gage in the back seat for the next time this happens. Probably a dumb question, but are you sure you are getting transmission cooperation when you want to accelerate? I ask as my current SD was behaving somewhat the same way. However, I guess I was so intent on swearing and stomping the pedal that I did not notice the real culprit is that my transmission has a mind of its own on whether it starts from a stop in first or second. Same for kickdown from 2 to 1 for low speed power demands, and 3-2 is kinda iffy as well. For now I just use the lever and live with it. Cheers -- Mac '82 300sd '82 240d (x2) '60 220s
[MBZ] w126 SD transmisson control cable question
My reply to Scott's post about turbo boost brings me to another question: the cable that runs from the linkage on top of the valve cover, down into the transmission... is that for shift control, kickdown, or both? TKS -- Mac '82 300sd '82 240d (x2) '60 220s
Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle
There is no magic repair for a worn out cylinder -- if a ring is broken (or badly stuck, etc), the liner will by now be worn to the point the rings cannot reliably seal, resulting in no compression cold. No amount of jacking around on it will do anything but increase the wear, your only real options are a replacement engine from the junkyard or a rebuild. Peter
[MBZ] W126 Tie rod assembly part numbers
I ordered tie rod assemblies from Rusty awhile back and was getting ready to put them on my 91 560SEL and noticed that the part numbers start with 107 and they are labeled for a 560SL. I was wondering if the W126 tie rod assembly were the same as the W107? Thanks Trampas
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
Think I'll leave my hose and gage in the back seat for the next time this happens. Beware of Heisenbugs. Better perhaps to snake a piece of junkyard tecalan (MB vacuum hose) through the firewall so you can always catch it in the act. Assuming you don't want to leave your gauge strapped to the wiper arm or something like that. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] w126 SD transmisson control cable question
My reply to Scott's post about turbo boost brings me to another question: the cable that runs from the linkage on top of the valve cover, down into the transmission... is that for shift control, kickdown, or both? The role of the mechanical linkage has varied over time. In my 240D, it's everything but kickdown. Later, vacuum control was added for shift firmness, said function being removed from the linkage. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] W126 Tie rod assembly part numbers
I ordered tie rod assemblies from Rusty awhile back and was getting ready to put them on my 91 560SEL and noticed that the part numbers start with 107 and they are labeled for a 560SL. I was wondering if the W126 tie rod assembly were the same as the W107? I can't speak for this particular case, but often this is true. A part originally deployed for a particular model is later used on others. I think many 114/115 suspension parts are used in 123's. The manual transmission in my 201 is a 124, etc. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle
On May 15, 2006, at 1:42 PM, Steve MacSween wrote: Someone by all means persuade me to the other side. It's just that I've BTDT in similar circumstances on other cars and I'm very, very loathe to pull the head for anything but a head gasket job. Cheers Mac There are tons of parts donors around. Whole cars can be had for very little and used engines are surely available. Does the rest of the car deserve any repair work? How ya been? Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life
Thanks Loren -
I'm mostly worried about the 91 300D - my '78 240D is fine as is my
300D - I was asking mostly out of curiosity.
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
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- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life
I assume you are talking about your diesel. Even on OM 621 engines, the
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles. On my 603, I replaced the
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were bad. I
would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based on better
machining and better metallurgy than 30 years ago.
The 240D had about 220k on the clock when i put new nozzles in when i
rebuilt the engine. Those nozzles were tested and were bad. Kinda low
miles if the odometer was accurate. My guess is that the car had more
miles, but who knows? It may have racked up 150 k running short hops in
Dallas and never left town. On the diesel injector, only the nozzle is
replaced, and it is shimmed to pressure spec. The nozzle holder can stay,
as it has no bearing on the performance of the nozzle. Rusty sells
rebuilt
injector assemblies, so you send in your old ones, holder and all. That
is
what I did on the 603. Unless one is nailing and does not clear, you
probably don't need to worry until you hit 250-300k, then get them
tested.
At 01:35 PM 5/15/2006, you wrote:
How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
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Re: [MBZ] CARFAX , Please
Vehicle Snapshot Vehicle 1992 Mercedes-Benz 500 Series 500SEL VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959 Body Style 4 Door Sedan Country of Manufacture Germany Vehicle History Checklist Vehicle Description WDBEA36E5NB694959 Title Check No records found Problem Check No records found Odometer Check No records found Vehicle Information Records found Full History Records found Title Check Your vehicle checks out! Abandoned No Abandoned Records Found Damaged No Damaged Records Found Fire Damage No Fire Damage Records Found Grey Market No Grey Market Records Found Hail Damage No Hail Damage Records Found Insurance Loss No Insurance Loss Records Found Junk No Junk Records Found Rebuilt/Rebuildable No Rebuilt/Rebuildable Records Found Salvage No Salvage Records Found Problem Check Your vehicle checks out! NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle No NHTSA Crash Test Vehicle Records Found Fire Damage Incident No Fire Damage Incident Records Found Frame Damage No Frame Damage Records Found Major Damage No Major Damage Records Found Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon Records Found Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon No Manufacturer Buyback/Lemon Records Found Odometer Problem No Odometer Problem Records Found Salvage Auction No Salvage Auction Records Found Water Damage No Water Damage Records Found Vehicle Information Problems Found! Accident Data No Accident Data Records Found Corrected Title No Corrected Title Records Found Driver Education No Driver Education Records Found Duplicate Title No Duplicate Title Records Found Emission/Safety Inspection Emission/Safety Inspection Records Found Livery Use No Livery Use Records Found Government Use No Government Use Records Found Police Use No Police Use Records Found Rental/Fleet No Rental/Fleet Records Found Repossessed No Repossessed Records Found Taxi Use No Taxi Use Records Found Theft No Theft Records Found Vehicle History Records We have searched the Experian Automotive National Vehicle Database of insurance, DMV, and auto auction information and found the following 9 records for this 1992 MERCEDES-BENZ 500 SERIES 500SEL. Note the highlighted rows for potential issues that could affect the value of this vehicle. Date Location Mileage Description 1992-05-06 sacramento, CA title 1992-05-06 sacramento, CA title 1996-03-15 sacramento, CA registration event/renewal 1997-04-14 CA 59327 passed emission inspection 1999-03-25 sacramento, CA 80373 passed emission inspection 2004-04-15 CA 127710 passed emission inspection 2004-04-15 CA emission inspection 2004-05-07 brentwood, CA registration event/renewal 2004-05-16 brentwood, CA title Glossary of Descriptions Found for This Vehicle (full glossary) Description Full Definition Title Vehicle had title registration event reported by state DMV. Renewal Vehicle had registration renewal event reported by state DMV. Passed Emission Inspection Vehicle passed the state emission inspection. Emission Inspection Emission inspection data is unknown. Highlights from our Editor's Review of the 1992 Mercedes-Benz 500 Series 500SEL No Consumer Guide® data available. Chuck Landenberger wrote: Hi, Anyone have a CARFAX account...??? 1992 500E - VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959 TIA, Take care, Chuck Phoenix AZ ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] W126 Tie rod assembly part numbers
116 and 126 will have the same tie rods, but the 107 tie rods will not work. Trampas wrote: I ordered tie rod assemblies from Rusty awhile back and was getting ready to put them on my 91 560SEL and noticed that the part numbers start with 107 and they are labeled for a 560SL. I was wondering if the W126 tie rod assembly were the same as the W107? Thanks Trampas ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
[MBZ] reponse from seller of diesel secret car
We'll send the photos soon. Actually, the heads on these are quite durable and rarely crack in our experience. Done an average of 10 per year for 50 years. The later the model, typically the less likely it is to crack. However since it is an unknown quantity, we are selling it this way reluctantly. She was the favorite reliable model we preferred. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle
Me: Been up and down, frankly, I'm self-employed and for the last few months there has been a drought on my trade around here Car: I do have a potential donor engine but it's tied to a stick driveline. Not a huge problem, but just more complicated (I guess that the stick would be the obvious choice in the swap). However, I was supposed to be using that spare engine elsewhere, either in a Jeep or the old Volvo wagon I have rusting in the driveway. Got any engines, JB, preferably still in a towable carrying case ;-)? Mac on 5/15/06 9:06 PM, John Berryman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: There are tons of parts donors around. Whole cars can be had for very little and used engines are surely available. Does the rest of the car deserve any repair work? How ya been? Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Injector life
He makes one trip weekly from Seattle to LA. Hauls fresh vegetables and fruit northbound in his 40 ft. refrigerated trailer. That would be a REFER to you kids on the list.BEG Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT
Re: [MBZ] Injector life
That would be a REFER to you kids on the list.BFG Crap! I spelled it wrong... REEFER. There, that's better. :) Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT
Re: [MBZ] w126 SD transmisson control cable question
Steve MacSween wrote: My reply to Scott's post about turbo boost brings me to another question: the cable that runs from the linkage on top of the valve cover, down into the transmission... is that for shift control, kickdown, or both? TKS The cable (along with engine rpm) controls WHEN the transmission should shift. If it's not correctly adjusted the shift speeds (both up and down) will NOT occur when they should. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] W126 Tie rod assembly part numbers
Trampas wrote: I ordered tie rod assemblies from Rusty awhile back and was getting ready to put them on my 91 560SEL and noticed that the part numbers start with 107 and they are labeled for a 560SL. I was wondering if the W126 tie rod assembly were the same as the W107? While your observation are consistent with the 107 and 126 tie rod being the same - it's not safe to assume that! There are 124 parts that begin with 201 but are not appropriate for a 201 and vice versa. To be sure you must check the 107 and 126 part numbers and see if they are the same. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] reponse from seller of diesel secret car
On Mon, 15 May 2006 21:10:20 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We'll send the photos soon. That would be nice, since the picture in the auction is of another car... Actually, the heads on these are quite durable and rarely crack in our experience. Guess they don't have much experience. Done an average of 10 per year for 50 years. Done WHAT ten times per year for 50 years? Craig
Re: [MBZ] w126 SD transmisson control cable question
Herr Doktor, how must one adjust the cable properly? Luther On Mon, 15 May 2006 21:41:28 -0500, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Steve MacSween wrote: My reply to Scott's post about turbo boost brings me to another question: the cable that runs from the linkage on top of the valve cover, down into the transmission... is that for shift control, kickdown, or both? TKS The cable (along with engine rpm) controls WHEN the transmission should shift. If it's not correctly adjusted the shift speeds (both up and down) will NOT occur when they should. Marshall -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (231,xxx kmi) '82 300CD (159,xxx kmi) '82 300D (74,000 kmi) needs MAJOR work
Re: [MBZ] CARFAX , Please
Thanks, Kaleb Chuck On May 15, 2006, at 6:51 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: Vehicle Snapshot Vehicle 1992 Mercedes-Benz 500 Series 500SEL VIN WDBEA36E5NB694959 Body Style 4 Door Sedan Country of Manufacture Germany
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
on 5/15/06 7:03 PM, Scott Ritchey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I bypassed the crossover valve, connected a pressure gage, and did a road test. Plenty of boost (maybe too much, looked like 1 bar or more, so now I wonder if the waste gate is functioning). Then I reconnected the crossover valve and disconnected the pressure switch. Everything still worked fine, plenty of boost. So I reconnected the pressure switch and everything still worked fine. Rats. Observation/question: did you change any of the hose while doing this? Or maybe shorten a hose that was dried out at the end? I did not remember, when I wrote earlier, but early on with my w116 SD I had a cracked hose there that really slowed me down, and the crack was on the bottom of the hose so it was a while before a sharper set of eyes than mine caught it. Mac
Re: [MBZ] Adjusting ALDA
Changing the shim is the correct method, the screw is to adjust the travel of the plunger inside the ALDA, not to set the correct zero point. It isn't possible, I don't believe, to ruputure the diaphram with shim adjustments, but it is definitely possible if you turn the screw too far. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost
I don't think I changed anything, at least not on purpose ... but anything is possible. I experienced the cracked hose before (under the switchover valve) so I did look for that. I'm just glad it's not something really expensive. If this recurs (and I can find my parts stash) I'll implement Jim Cathey's idea of a continuous monitor setup. This time I just snaked a rubber hose through the driver's window. Scott Ritchey Kittrell NC 1982 300SD 220K 1979 300TD 350K -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve MacSween Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 12:01 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Low Turbo Boost on 5/15/06 7:03 PM, Scott Ritchey at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I bypassed the crossover valve, connected a pressure gage, and did a road test. Plenty of boost (maybe too much, looked like 1 bar or more, so now I wonder if the waste gate is functioning). Then I reconnected the crossover valve and disconnected the pressure switch. Everything still worked fine, plenty of boost. So I reconnected the pressure switch and everything still worked fine. Rats. Observation/question: did you change any of the hose while doing this? Or maybe shorten a hose that was dried out at the end? I did not remember, when I wrote earlier, but early on with my w116 SD I had a cracked hose there that really slowed me down, and the crack was on the bottom of the hose so it was a while before a sharper set of eyes than mine caught it. Mac ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle
I'll drink to that. - Brian - 83 240D dark blue (which also had an ailing engine that, it sounds like you could've revived) (we opted for a used replacement engine and are blissfully tooling around these days) (with steering and axle problems) I've wondered: were there other dark blue color variations, or just this one? Steve wrote: I really liked driving the dark blue car (man that sunroof feels HUGE) so my inclination is to keep it Mike wrote: That color combo is perfect for the 123 chassis. I really don't like the lighter colors.
Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life
YMMV There is no hard/fast time, as Herr Doktor said. A lot of it is
dependent on the quality of fuel used. Some diesel feels oily and other
fuel does not feel oily. I don't know that means anything. I know that
every once in a while, I get a load of fuel that runs better and gets WAY
better mileage. If you drive into a station and ask for the lubricity of
their fuel, you won't get any answer, and I don't know that lubricity can
be directly related to injector nozzle life. Seems like it ought to.
At 08:24 PM 5/15/2006, you wrote:
Thanks Loren -
I'm mostly worried about the 91 300D - my '78 240D is fine as is my
300D - I was asking mostly out of curiosity.
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 3:10 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fuel Injector Life
I assume you are talking about your diesel. Even on OM 621 engines, the
injector nozzles would last 150-200k miles. On my 603, I replaced the
nozzles at 300k, on principle, not because I could prove they were bad. I
would guess you should look for 300-500K on yours, based on better
machining and better metallurgy than 30 years ago.
The 240D had about 220k on the clock when i put new nozzles in when i
rebuilt the engine. Those nozzles were tested and were bad. Kinda low
miles if the odometer was accurate. My guess is that the car had more
miles, but who knows? It may have racked up 150 k running short hops in
Dallas and never left town. On the diesel injector, only the nozzle is
replaced, and it is shimmed to pressure spec. The nozzle holder can stay,
as it has no bearing on the performance of the nozzle. Rusty sells
rebuilt
injector assemblies, so you send in your old ones, holder and all. That
is
what I did on the 603. Unless one is nailing and does not clear, you
probably don't need to worry until you hit 250-300k, then get them
tested.
At 01:35 PM 5/15/2006, you wrote:
How long do FI's last before they need to be cleaned?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
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Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: 1982 300 CD Specifications]
Frank, in looking over the Technical Specifications on page 57,May/June 2006 issue, 1982 300 CD I noticed that the Valves Per Cylinder states it has FOUR (4)!!! HOW DID THEY DO THAT ???/ Inquiring minds want to know... Easy. You type 4 into a table instead of the correct 2. :-) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] wow '85 SD
David Brodbeck wrote: It's so clean, the Virgin Mary herself would be honored to reach in and change the fuel filter. I recently resurrected an '83 300D that is nearly as clean as that one (minus all the used car spray'n'shine). 148k miles and not a single scratch, dent, or speck of rust; just a couple of small rock chips. 99th percentile inside and out as if it has been held in stasis since the Wall came down. The procedure was simple: Check oil, install a battery, turn key. It started instantly and immediately settled into a perfectly smooth idle. A sticker on the door jamb stated that the oil had been changed at the dealer 100 miles ago - in 1993. The brakes, wiper blades, ACC (save for the depleted R12) were all as they should be. Thirteen-year-old diesel fuel. Huh. The car has been in regular service for a month now and is a joy to drive once I cleaned the boost line and adjusted the ALDA and bowden cable. It likes to go sideways in corners in the rain, though; the old Michelin XAS tires are as hard as rocks. It is difficult for us old jalopy drivers to imagine how nice these cars were when they were new. And how expensive. Tom '82 300D 336k miles - um, not so pristine
Re: [MBZ] w126 SD transmisson control cable question
In a message dated 5/15/2006 8:28:21 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Herr Doktor, how must one adjust the cable properly? Luther, My experience is with the rod, but cable adjustment should be similar. Shortening the cable will raise the shift points. You can do this gradually until the trans shifts at, or near, the marks in each gear with WOT. For a final check, on coast down, moving the shift lever from 4 to 3 should result in an immediate shift to 3. If it does not, you have the cable too short and must loosen it until the the down shift occurs. Look for a way to speed up the cable travel by lengthening the bell crank, to raise the shift points. Always count turns and take measurements so you can get back to your best settings. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles
Re: [MBZ] Shamless plug for Club 123D spring rally
George Gregory wrote: Most clubs and organizations of this type try to get as many participants as possible INCLUDED which is the opposite of your policy of EXCLUDING. You just haven't been the same since you went Hollywood and forsook your diesel, George. :) Fortunately some us are still keeping it real (and have no other friends) and would seek to include you as navigator on said rally. But unfortunately, my grandmother will have my head on a platter if I don't go to Kansas City this weekend instead. Next time, Vince. Sounds like a good time. Tom, 123 uber alles
Re: [MBZ] reponse from seller of diesel secret car
On 5/15/06, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Done an average of 10 per year for 50 years. Done WHAT ten times per year for 50 years? Replaced the heads on their 1956 SDL, I guess. Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle
On May 15, 2006, at 10:10 PM, Steve MacSween wrote: Got any engines, JB, preferably still in a towable carrying case ;-)? Mac Good to see you're still alive. 2 5 cyls, one turbo one NA. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] W126 Tie rod assembly part numbers
Kaleb, Thanks! I will call Rusty today and get new parts. There is nothing more frustrating than to tear a car down only to find out you have the wrong parts. On the good side it looks like I need to order lower control arms too. Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:01 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] W126 Tie rod assembly part numbers 116 and 126 will have the same tie rods, but the 107 tie rods will not work. Trampas wrote: I ordered tie rod assemblies from Rusty awhile back and was getting ready to put them on my 91 560SEL and noticed that the part numbers start with 107 and they are labeled for a 560SL. I was wondering if the W126 tie rod assembly were the same as the W107? Thanks Trampas ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] rear brake
Hello list, I need some help from your collective wisdom. My problem is strange. For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor was moving. It is not smooth, but almost a popping like metal sound. When applying the brakes the noise quiets, is gone. It starts after a period of driving, usually I hear it after about 10-12 miles at 50-55. Sometimes once it quiets is smooths out with the occasional pop. When this first started I thought it a bad driveaxle and replaced it. A week or so later the noise returned. I replaced the caliper and there was no change. I replaced the brake hose and got a week of relief. But it's back. I don't feel any vibration when moving at highway speeds and often in stop and go traffic, which I don't do a lot of, the noise rarely appears. The rotors were replaced in the recent past as was the master cylinder ( within the last 18 mos to 2 years). When I had my indie look at it they found the sway bar busings worn and replaced them but saw nothing else. But since they didn't drive it long enough they didn't hear the noise.The brakes are firm and I don't feel a pulsing due to a warped rotor, but something is producing this weird response and it's getting a bit frustrating. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Neal
[MBZ] FW: Today's Diesel Prices
Thanks, Tom Hargrave 256-656-1924 www.kegkits.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 2:13 PM To: Weekly Highway Diesel Prices Subject: Today's Diesel Prices ** ** ** * **** * * *** U.S. Department of Energy** ** ** * Energy Information Administration * **** ******* To unsubscribe/change address, ** ** ** ** ** * see the message footnotes * * EIA, the Nation's clearinghouse for energy statistics. *** ** (NOTE: To best view this document, your email software should be set to view the item in an 80 character format, using a non-proportional font, e.g. courier) ** On-highway diesel prices, by week and PADD (Self Service Cash Price in Dollars per Gallon, Including Taxes) Diesel Prices Web URL: http://tonto.eia.doe.gov/oog/info/wohdp/diesel.asp US NATL EASTNEWCENTLOWER GULF ROCKY WEST DATEAVG COAST ENGLAND ATL ATL MIDWEST COAST MTN COAST CA PADD PADDPADDPADDPADDPADDPADD PADD I IA IB IC II III IV V -- - - --- - - --- - - - - 060515 2.920 2.907 3.003 3.014 2.853 2.870 2.829 3.074 3.192 3.242 060508 2.897 2.884 2.972 2.983 2.834 2.841 2.814 3.054 3.180 3.244 060501 2.896 2.892 2.979 2.987 2.843 2.853 2.832 3.012 3.098 3.163 060424 2.876 2.888 2.961 2.978 2.843 2.847 2.817 2.903 3.026 3.103 060417 2.765 2.788 2.865 2.876 2.743 2.735 2.725 2.756 2.881 2.933 060410 2.654 2.676 2.769 2.767 2.629 2.614 2.601 2.680 2.812 2.881 060403 2.617 2.639 2.731 2.727 2.593 2.578 2.579 2.629 2.753 2.812 060327 2.565 2.586 2.700 2.681 2.536 2.523 2.528 2.601 2.698 2.727 060320 2.581 2.606 2.702 2.697 2.558 2.533 2.552 2.608 2.716 2.738 060313 2.543 2.567 2.687 2.681 2.507 2.491 2.497 2.566 2.725 2.747 060306 2.545 2.571 2.656 2.682 2.516 2.500 2.499 2.545 2.711 2.739 060227 2.471 2.493 2.593 2.593 2.441 2.417 2.443 2.509 2.623 2.688 060220 2.455 2.487 2.593 2.580 2.437 2.398 2.427 2.497 2.594 2.674 060213 2.476 2.509 2.617 2.591 2.464 2.419 2.447 2.500 2.621 2.709 060206 2.499 2.536 2.659 2.618 2.490 2.445 2.463 2.503 2.645 2.739 060130 2.489 2.530 2.661 2.618 2.481 2.431 2.455 2.474 2.640 2.733 060123 2.472 2.516 2.668 2.610 2.462 2.423 2.432 2.435 2.608 2.674 060116 2.449 2.489 2.663 2.605 2.424 2.408 2.415 2.411 2.565 2.603 060109 2.485 2.528 2.676 2.626 2.473 2.451 2.453 2.421 2.577 2.601 060102 2.442 2.481 2.645 2.590 2.420 2.412 2.414 2.392 2.519 2.538 051226 2.448 2.481 2.643 2.599 2.416 2.420 2.421 2.410 2.523 2.543 051219 2.462 2.499 2.647 2.609 2.438 2.443 2.435 2.410 2.505 2.521 051212 2.436 2.458 2.598 2.577 2.393 2.409 2.429 2.401 2.500 2.465 051205 2.425 2.428 2.591 2.569 2.354 2.390 2.411 2.471 2.538 2.486 051128 2.479 2.467 2.619 2.604 2.394 2.442 2.456 2.591 2.617 2.559 051121 2.513 2.491 2.652 2.615 2.423 2.477 2.491 2.654 2.652 2.599 051114 2.602 2.565 2.699 2.689 2.500 2.575 2.585 2.766 2.738 2.717 051107 2.698 2.657 2.744 2.755 2.608 2.671 2.679 2.907 2.821 2.797 051031 2.876 2.784 2.834 2.848 2.753 2.907 2.846 3.079 2.951 2.936 051024 3.157 3.051 2.873 2.940 3.115 3.235 3.146 3.232 3.142 3.152 051017 3.148 3.116 2.913 2.966 3.199 3.144 3.177 3.178 3.178 3.210 051010 3.150 3.160 2.947 2.990 3.252 3.123 3.182 3.143 3.167 3.240 051003 3.144 3.198 3.012 3.040 3.283 3.083 3.185 3.079 3.174 3.262 050926 2.798 2.808 2.859 2.875 2.775 2.739 2.756 2.938 2.978 3.031 050919 2.732 2.749 2.804 2.846 2.702 2.648 2.677 2.902 2.985 3.060 050912 2.847 2.849 2.920 2.935 2.806 2.782 2.797 2.957 3.093 3.158 050905 2.898 2.900 2.977 2.993 2.853 2.843 2.833 2.976 3.149 3.250 050829 2.590 2.564 2.649 2.654 2.518 2.532 2.508 2.726 2.920 3.045 050822 2.588 2.564 2.642 2.654 2.519 2.540 2.512 2.679 2.897 3.037 050815 2.567 2.544 2.618 2.633 2.499 2.524 2.481 2.615 2.891 3.042 050808 2.407 2.386 2.492 2.484 2.334 2.336 2.323 2.486 2.801 2.943 050801 2.348 2.356 2.488 2.465 2.297 2.292 2.279 2.421 2.594 2.657 050725 2.342 2.365 2.508
Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle
There ya go SteveThat car would be perfect with a turbo 5 cyl. Mike - Original Message - From: John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 16, 2006 6:24 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hello again, and back to my 240d battle On May 15, 2006, at 10:10 PM, Steve MacSween wrote: Got any engines, JB, preferably still in a towable carrying case ;-)? Mac Good to see you're still alive. 2 5 cyls, one turbo one NA. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor was moving. It is not smooth, but almost a popping like metal sound. When applying the brakes the noise quiets, is gone. It starts after a period of driving, usually I hear it after about 10-12 miles at 50-55. I replaced the caliper...brake hose...rotors...master cylinder Not much left back there. Have you looked at the parking brake mechanism? Has to at least see the light of day when the rotors are off, the mechanic should have noticed anything gross at that time. Could it be a wheel bearing? Jack up that side and have a few strenuous yanks to see if it moves. Maybe let the car run and spin that wheel in the air for awhile while listening. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results
cyl fires ) . When loosening one fuel line at a time it appears that #2 cyl is not contributing much ( speed drop and engine note does not change much ) however when I did a compression test results ( engine hot ) are as follows - #1 is very low at 9 bar and all others are 16 - 18 bar. Oil consumption is in spec at 1 l/1000km. The compression test indicates that there is an issue with Cyl # 1 yes the fuel line removal test indicates #2 is faulty. Engine starts easily when cold , no so well when hot without glowing ( 3 -4 engine revolutions before is starts ) Any ideas what could be going on? Could there be a crack between #1 and #2 cyl ? Doubtful, that ought to be shown in the compression test. Those numbers sound a bit low, at least for a 616! Injectors? The usual test is to swap a few around and repeat the line-crack test. Try swapping 23 (keep 1 out of it) to see if anything moves. Assuming you've adjusted the valve clearance, your low compression could be caused by carboning caused in turn by a faulty injector. It may be worth removing them and having them tested. (I hear you can test them yourself using a flanged-up arrangement of a grease gun and high pressure gauge. I've been meaning to make one of these rigs myself, but will probably wait until I have a need.) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results
I have checked injectors ( Pressures 115- 120 , spray ok ) I had changed all the nozzles a few months ago. Peter -Original Message- From: Jim Cathey [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 16 May 2006 02:28 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results cyl fires ) . When loosening one fuel line at a time it appears that #2 cyl is not contributing much ( speed drop and engine note does not change much ) however when I did a compression test results ( engine hot ) are as follows - #1 is very low at 9 bar and all others are 16 - 18 bar. Oil consumption is in spec at 1 l/1000km. The compression test indicates that there is an issue with Cyl # 1 yes the fuel line removal test indicates #2 is faulty. Engine starts easily when cold , no so well when hot without glowing ( 3 -4 engine revolutions before is starts ) Any ideas what could be going on? Could there be a crack between #1 and #2 cyl ? Doubtful, that ought to be shown in the compression test. Those numbers sound a bit low, at least for a 616! Injectors? The usual test is to swap a few around and repeat the line-crack test. Try swapping 23 (keep 1 out of it) to see if anything moves. Assuming you've adjusted the valve clearance, your low compression could be caused by carboning caused in turn by a faulty injector. It may be worth removing them and having them tested. (I hear you can test them yourself using a flanged-up arrangement of a grease gun and high pressure gauge. I've been meaning to make one of these rigs myself, but will probably wait until I have a need.) -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Differential noise and leaking boot
Thanks, Meade and Jim. I'll replace the half-axle with one from Kaleb, and if that doesn't stop the noise, I'll jack it up and do the stethoscope test. Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D - - Original Message - From: Dillon, Meade LCDR [EMAIL PROTECTED] Depending on your preference, either get a good used OE joint (boots still intact and decent looking is criteria to meet) or get a new joint from Rusty. Rebuilt/aftermarket joints have very poor reliability. The labor and parts required to simply change the boots approaches the cost of a new axle (special press required to make metal-metal seal on can), and if the joint has already been contaminated with dirt, it will fail soon anyway so that path is fraught with risk. I put in a used axle in my 123 wagon (can annular) to replace a homokinetic. There is no connection/path from diff. oil to boot lubrication for spider joint. If the axle spider joint is bad, noise will change as you load and unload that side of the car by gently weaving back and forth at highway speeds. Noise when turning left/listing to starboard/loading right side axle indicates bad joint(s) on that axle, and vice versa. Differential failure is very rare. Noise from diff. is typically resolved by replacing the diff. rubber mount. - - Original Message - From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Gerry Archer wrote: Could the right side differential bearing be making the noise or can a bad axle shaft make that sort of noise or is it most likely the differential ring gear/pinion? Having actually had a bad differential in that 240D of mine, the noise it made was good old-fashioned gear whine that while not constant, wasn't particularly susceptible to variation during acceleration, braking, swerving, etc. It also definitely came from the rear of the car. The differential mount was also bad on that car, but was replaced with a good used one first. The noise level, though reduced some, was still unacceptable. The bad diff, once removed, was obviously loose in the pinion, and may have been recoverable by tightening it. The internals looked good, otherwise. Time constraints prevented me from trying out this step first as it takes a substantial percentage of replacement time and I already had a spare diff. There's a special castle nut tool you need too, but I already had it. I was really sad that I didn't get to use it, it cost me plenty! (Several times what the replacement differential did, in fact.) -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Universal replacement boots
archer wrote: Has anyone tried: Astoria 2000 (ARAFB3000) Universal Car C.V. Flex Boot? http://www.tooltopia.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATSCategory=836 The boot is stretched with a $250 special air tool, slid over the can on each end of the half-axle, released, and secured with two hose type clamps. The expensive installation tool would be the main problem while trying it unless it could be rented. Neat idea, but I'll wager the boots won't last anything like as long as the boot that come on a Mercedes. I'd bet they'll last as long as the boots on a rice rocket. Marshall -- I wonder if the stretch-on boots would last longer than the boots on a used half-axle? Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
Jim, I thought it migh be parking brake related and checked the adjustments a couple of times with no change. The indie suggested that a flap in the old brake hose could cause an interruption in the brake fluid and set up the condition, but the new hose only slowed the return of the noise. Since the noise only starts after a period of highway speeds and since it's my daily drive I can predict where I expect to hear the noise. I suspected the hose/caliper problem since when working on the driveaxle they were hung out of the way and interrupted, for a while, the noise. Thanks for the suggestions. Neal Jim Cathey wrote: For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor was moving. It is not smooth, but almost a popping like metal sound. When applying the brakes the noise quiets, is gone. It starts after a period of driving, usually I hear it after about 10-12 miles at 50-55. I replaced the caliper...brake hose...rotors...master cylinder Not much left back there. Have you looked at the parking brake mechanism? Has to at least see the light of day when the rotors are off, the mechanic should have noticed anything gross at that time. Could it be a wheel bearing? Jack up that side and have a few strenuous yanks to see if it moves. Maybe let the car run and spin that wheel in the air for awhile while listening. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Discount tires on-line
I know many here have purchased tires on-line. Besides Tire Rack, where is a good place to buy? Thanks, Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results
Peter Merle wrote: I have been off the diesel list for some time and have managed to find the mbz community again thanks to Marshall. Anyway - I have this puzzle with my OM617.912 in my Gwagon - There is light ticking noise emanating from the exhaust pipe exit , and about engine speed( I suspect when one cyl fires ) . When loosening one fuel line at a time it appears that #2 cyl is not contributing much ( speed drop and engine note does not change much ) however when I did a compression test results ( engine hot ) are as follows - #1 is very low at 9 bar and all others are 16 - 18 bar. Oil consumption is in spec at 1 l/1000km. The compression test indicates that there is an issue with Cyl # 1 yes the fuel line removal test indicates #2 is faulty. Engine starts easily when cold , no so well when hot without glowing ( 3 -4 engine revolutions before is starts ) Any ideas what could be going on? Could there be a crack between #1 and #2 cyl ? Peter Merle Cape Town ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Check valve clearance (no matter when the valves were last adjusted). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
Neal Kramarcy wrote: Hello list, I need some help from your collective wisdom. My problem is strange. For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor was moving. It is not smooth, but almost a popping like metal sound. When applying the brakes the noise quiets, is gone. It starts after a period of driving, usually I hear it after about 10-12 miles at 50-55. Sometimes once it quiets is smooths out with the occasional pop. When this first started I thought it a bad driveaxle and replaced it. A week or so later the noise returned. I replaced the caliper and there was no change. I replaced the brake hose and got a week of relief. But it's back. I don't feel any vibration when moving at highway speeds and often in stop and go traffic, which I don't do a lot of, the noise rarely appears. The rotors were replaced in the recent past as was the master cylinder ( within the last 18 mos to 2 years). When I had my indie look at it they found the sway bar busings worn and replaced them but saw nothing else. But since they didn't drive it long enough they didn't hear the noise.The brakes are firm and I don't feel a pulsing due to a warped rotor, but something is producing this weird response and it's getting a bit frustrating. Any help would be appreciated. The emergency brake shoes often cause a problem quite like you seem to be describing. Remove the rotor and examine the brake shoes and the springs that secure them. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D
I think my 0-60 is around 15 seconds, I haven't found a dead stop and a flat road to easily try it on, but I was trying to time it this morning, although near the end of my trip I think my veg filter was clogging. So I think it's about at the power level it should be. However I haven't gone looking for the alda just yet. Now... If I'm correctly understanding the monovalve's function, I'm not sure it's the problem. I was somewhat thinking that might be the issue since I just dumped a bottle of coolant leak sealer in there a week or so ago. But here's another piece: This morning I tried turning on the ACC to MIN right from startup with about 50F outside. It was on absolute minimum fan speed until it got up to around 80C on the temp gauge where it seemed to blow in more air... (hot of course) It felt like the AC compressor kicked off when I turned off the system as well. (Which I believe is normal, seems like I read that if it's not in Economy mode, that thing runs pretty much any time it's above freezing). Still... It seems like it thinks I want warm air no matter what? Thanks! Levi On 5/14/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Yeah, it's a pretty steep hill. The problem is the gearing and the fact that the hill starts in town around a corner, so I can't get going any faster than 35mph to start with. Basically, it will redline in first without issue, but as soon as it hits second, it starts holding/dropping (definitely NO acceleration). How's your 0-60 time? Could your ALDA need a tweak? So was I correct that the monovalve is just an electric solenoid/valve that controls the flow of heater coolant? And is that located on the firewall pretty close to the battery? Yes, and yes. The insert comes out with four screws and you can then examine the rubber for tears. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D
Levi Smith wrote: I think my 0-60 is around 15 seconds, I haven't found a dead stop and a flat road to easily try it on, but I was trying to time it this morning, although near the end of my trip I think my veg filter was clogging. So I think it's about at the power level it should be. However I haven't gone looking for the alda just yet. Now... If I'm correctly understanding the monovalve's function, I'm not sure it's the problem. I was somewhat thinking that might be the issue since I just dumped a bottle of coolant leak sealer in there a week or so ago. But here's another piece: This morning I tried turning on the ACC to MIN right from startup with about 50F outside. It was on absolute minimum fan speed until it got up to around 80C on the temp gauge where it seemed to blow in more air... (hot of course) It felt like the AC compressor kicked off when I turned off the system as well. (Which I believe is normal, seems like I read that if it's not in Economy mode, that thing runs pretty much any time it's above freezing). Still... It seems like it thinks I want warm air no matter what? Coolant leak sealer will usually clog the monovalve screen. Very common. Usually a monovalve repair kit insert will be required. Less than $50 from Rusty. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D
That's what I thought I'd heard. So... Can you fill me in a little more on what exactly this monovalve is/does? I mean, if it's simply a heater coolant solenoid/valve then it seems that it would only prevent the heater coolant from circulating if I asked for heat. My situation seems to somehow be that the system thinks I want heat no matter what... Please enlighten me, Thanks! Levi (: On 5/16/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Levi Smith wrote: I think my 0-60 is around 15 seconds, I haven't found a dead stop and a flat road to easily try it on, but I was trying to time it this morning, although near the end of my trip I think my veg filter was clogging. So I think it's about at the power level it should be. However I haven't gone looking for the alda just yet. Now... If I'm correctly understanding the monovalve's function, I'm not sure it's the problem. I was somewhat thinking that might be the issue since I just dumped a bottle of coolant leak sealer in there a week or so ago. But here's another piece: This morning I tried turning on the ACC to MIN right from startup with about 50F outside. It was on absolute minimum fan speed until it got up to around 80C on the temp gauge where it seemed to blow in more air... (hot of course) It felt like the AC compressor kicked off when I turned off the system as well. (Which I believe is normal, seems like I read that if it's not in Economy mode, that thing runs pretty much any time it's above freezing). Still... It seems like it thinks I want warm air no matter what? Coolant leak sealer will usually clog the monovalve screen. Very common. Usually a monovalve repair kit insert will be required. Less than $50 from Rusty. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] reponse from seller of diesel secret car
This is kinda like the Dateline thing where they lure the online sleazebags into the house thinking they are meeting some underaged girl...then they bust him. Kaleb is acting interested so we can see where this guys tips the fool scale. Will it be woth it to tell him he's an idiot? I'm thinking not. Bob Rentfro - Original Message - From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 7:10 PM Subject: [MBZ] reponse from seller of diesel secret car We'll send the photos soon. Actually, the heads on these are quite durable and rarely crack in our experience. Done an average of 10 per year for 50 years. The later the model, typically the less likely it is to crack. However since it is an unknown quantity, we are selling it this way reluctantly. She was the favorite reliable model we preferred. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results
Agreed , that is still an outstanding thing I have to do. I might do a leakdown evaluation my making a home made tool. BTW OM617 non turbo heads - do the crack and if so is there a common place where they do , are there any typical symptoms? Peter Merle -Original Message- From: Marshall Booth [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: 16 May 2006 03:38 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results Peter Merle wrote: I have been off the diesel list for some time and have managed to find the mbz community again thanks to Marshall. Anyway - I have this puzzle with my OM617.912 in my Gwagon - There is light ticking noise emanating from the exhaust pipe exit , and about engine speed( I suspect when one cyl fires ) . When loosening one fuel line at a time it appears that #2 cyl is not contributing much ( speed drop and engine note does not change much ) however when I did a compression test results ( engine hot ) are as follows - #1 is very low at 9 bar and all others are 16 - 18 bar. Oil consumption is in spec at 1 l/1000km. The compression test indicates that there is an issue with Cyl # 1 yes the fuel line removal test indicates #2 is faulty. Engine starts easily when cold , no so well when hot without glowing ( 3 -4 engine revolutions before is starts ) Any ideas what could be going on? Could there be a crack between #1 and #2 cyl ? Peter Merle Cape Town ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Check valve clearance (no matter when the valves were last adjusted). Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
Thanks Marshall. My thoughts have drifted back to the emergancy brake pads and I've been thinking of removing that set and giving it a test, since the problem has been pretty predictable. Neal Marshall Booth wrote: Neal Kramarcy wrote: Hello list, I need some help from your collective wisdom. My problem is strange. For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor was moving. It is not smooth, but almost a popping like metal sound. When applying the brakes the noise quiets, is gone. It starts after a period of driving, usually I hear it after about 10-12 miles at 50-55. Sometimes once it quiets is smooths out with the occasional pop. When this first started I thought it a bad driveaxle and replaced it. A week or so later the noise returned. I replaced the caliper and there was no change. I replaced the brake hose and got a week of relief. But it's back. I don't feel any vibration when moving at highway speeds and often in stop and go traffic, which I don't do a lot of, the noise rarely appears. The rotors were replaced in the recent past as was the master cylinder ( within the last 18 mos to 2 years). When I had my indie look at it they found the sway bar busings worn and replaced them but saw nothing else. But since they didn't drive it long enough they didn't hear the noise.The brakes are firm and I don't feel a pulsing due to a warped rotor, but something is producing this weird response and it's getting a bit frustrating. Any help would be appreciated. The emergency brake shoes often cause a problem quite like you seem to be describing. Remove the rotor and examine the brake shoes and the springs that secure them. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results
BTW OM617 non turbo heads - do they crack and if so is there a common place where they do , are there any typical symptoms? Not that I know of. They're pretty robust. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D
Now... If I'm correctly understanding the monovalve's function, I'm not The monovalve has thin rubber seals, and if they tear the solenoid can hydrolock and stick on, in spite of the system trying to shut off coolant flow. sure it's the problem. I was somewhat thinking that might be the issue since I just dumped a bottle of coolant leak sealer in there a week or so That stuff can clog the monovalve. As we have suggested, grab your screwdriver and take out the insert. It's the easiest job on your car, and a visual inspection will tell you a lot. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] '87 190D blinker and blower problems
Marshall, Zoltan and Jim et al Thanks for your input. I took the hazard switch out and apart. I used verv fine grid sandpaper to clean and smoothen the contacts. However, the hazard still works fine, the blinker still does not. High beam and whiper are fine too. Any suggestions how to get the blinker back on track? Daniel Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Daniel Konow wrote: Thanks list, my blower problem is gone after disconnecting the aux water pump. But the more important problem remains: blinker non op. I switched the hasard switch a couple of times and the blinker worked this morning. Then this afternoon no more. switched a zillion times but still not working (left and right) at all. Wonder if a new switch would do the trick? Thanks Daniel - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue May 16 14:39:14 2006 Received: from imo-d22.mx.aol.com ([205.188.144.208]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1Fg0he-0006QE-1s for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tue, 16 May 2006 14:39:14 + Received: from [EMAIL PROTECTED] by imo-d22.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.5.) id 5.3f9.283938b (58435) for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tue, 16 May 2006 10:39:08 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 10:39:07 EDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 2340 X-Spam-Flag: NO X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 14:39:14 - In a message dated 5/16/2006 12:22:42 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: have been off the diesel list for some time and have managed to find the mbz community again thanks to Marshall. Anyway - I have this puzzle with my OM617.912 in my Gwagon - There is light ticking noise emanating from the exhaust pipe exit , and about engine speed( I suspect when one cyl fires ) . When loosening one fuel line at a time it appears that #2 cyl is not contributing much ( speed drop and engine note does not change much ) however when I did a compression test results ( engine hot ) are as follows - #1 is very low at 9 bar and all others are 16 - 18 bar. Oil consumption is in spec at 1 l/1000km. The compression test indicates that there is an issue with Cyl # 1 yes the fuel line removal test indicates #2 is faulty. Engine starts easily when cold , no so well when hot without glowing ( 3 -4 engine revolutions before is starts ) Any ideas what could be going on? Could there be a crack between #1 and #2 cyl ? Peter, Hard starting when hot was the signal on a couple of my diesels that the ring sealing was gone. Your low compression readings are just barely acceptable on 3 cylinders and the #1 is just plain bad. Mine would start cold fairly well but just as you describe, very hard to start hot, and required glowing, too. Don't go anywhere without a good spare battery! Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
In a message dated 5/16/2006 4:53:53 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hello list, I need some help from your collective wisdom. My problem is strange. For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor was moving. It is not smooth, but almost a popping like metal sound. When applying the brakes the noise quiets, is gone. It starts after a period of driving, usually I hear it after about 10-12 miles at 50-55. Sometimes once it quiets is smooths out with the occasional pop. When this first started I thought it a bad driveaxle and replaced it. A week or so later the noise returned. I replaced the caliper and there was no change. I replaced the brake hose and got a week of relief. But it's back. I don't feel any vibration when moving at highway speeds and often in stop and go traffic, which I don't do a lot of, the noise rarely appears. The rotors were replaced in the recent past as was the master cylinder ( within the last 18 mos to 2 years). When I had my indie look at it they found the sway bar busings worn and replaced them but saw nothing else. But since they didn't drive it long enough they didn't hear the noise. The brakes are firm and I don't feel a pulsing due to a warped rotor, but something is producing this weird response and it's getting a bit frustrating. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Neal Neal, Any chance one of the wheel studs is longer than it should be and is clashing against the internals of the emergency brake? Do you use the emergency brake often? Maybe it is not releasing the same each time and giving the intermittent noise you hear. Barring the above, I think I would spring for a new caliper. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
Jim, I've already replaced the caliper and got no change. None of the mounting bolts look too long, the emergancy brake is used regularly and is snug at about 4 clicks. The puzzle is that it occurs regularly after a standard set of highway miles(10-12) and after an interval of 8-10 hrs (parked during the day or overnight) is absent until the usual distance is driven. When I replaced the rotors I was surprised at the difficulty of removing the old versus the ease that this new one seems to almost fall off the hub. I've attributed this to my failure to release the parking in the initial replacement and have wondered if I damaged something in the parking brake mechanism during the rotor removal. The right side has behaved fine, but I do recall the rotor was easier to remove. Whether I realized what was making the removal difficult or merely a difference in the parking brake tightness, who knows. Thanks for the help. Neal [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 5/16/2006 4:53:53 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hello list, I need some help from your collective wisdom. My problem is strange. For the last several months I've been dealing with my 1981 3000CD left rear brake that seems to be either grabbing the rotor or pulsing such that I hear a hard metal sound as if the pad was loose or the rotor was moving. It is not smooth, but almost a popping like metal sound. When applying the brakes the noise quiets, is gone. It starts after a period of driving, usually I hear it after about 10-12 miles at 50-55. Sometimes once it quiets is smooths out with the occasional pop. When this first started I thought it a bad driveaxle and replaced it. A week or so later the noise returned. I replaced the caliper and there was no change. I replaced the brake hose and got a week of relief. But it's back. I don't feel any vibration when moving at highway speeds and often in stop and go traffic, which I don't do a lot of, the noise rarely appears. The rotors were replaced in the recent past as was the master cylinder ( within the last 18 mos to 2 years). When I had my indie look at it they found the sway bar busings worn and replaced them but saw nothing else. But since they didn't drive it long enough they didn't hear the noise. The brakes are firm and I don't feel a pulsing due to a warped rotor, but something is producing this weird response and it's getting a bit frustrating. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Neal Neal, Any chance one of the wheel studs is longer than it should be and is clashing against the internals of the emergency brake? Do you use the emergency brake often? Maybe it is not releasing the same each time and giving the intermittent noise you hear. Barring the above, I think I would spring for a new caliper. Regards, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] cruise control amp
Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin variety? If not 12 pins, how many is it? I haven't had time to extract the unit. -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Discount tires on-line
JB you had my answer in your subject line Discount Tire. www.tires.com Also: www.1010tires.com That being said, Tire Rack is wy out in front in terms of solid tire info on their site (I like to read the survey results) and they have a good cross-section of price ranges. Cheers Mac on 5/16/06 8:53 AM, John Berryman at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I know many here have purchased tires on-line. Besides Tire Rack, where is a good place to buy? Thanks, Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results
on 5/16/06 3:17 AM, Peter Merle at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The compression test indicates that there is an issue with Cyl # 1 yes the fuel line removal test indicates #2 is faulty. Engine starts easily when cold , no so well when hot without glowing ( 3 -4 engine revolutions before is starts ) Any ideas what could be going on? Could there be a crack between #1 and #2 cyl ? If I read this correctly, it sounds like #1 is losing compression (same as my current car), but #2 injector needs to be cleaned or have its tip replaced. Cheers -- Mac '82 300sd '82 240d (x2) '60 220s
Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D
It's been raining a lot lately so I haven't had the chance to get in there and take a look at the monovalve, but here's my question: If it's simply sticking on and allowing coolant flow, why is it not even putting out cold air when the engine is still cold? I could understand the coolant overpowering the AC once it's hot, but when the engine is cold, it seems that the fan speed should kick up and put out cold air. But it doesn't. It's trying as hard as it can not to put out cold air, and waits till the engine temp picks up and then blows in hot air... Just trying to understand, Thanks! Levi On 5/16/06, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Now... If I'm correctly understanding the monovalve's function, I'm not The monovalve has thin rubber seals, and if they tear the solenoid can hydrolock and stick on, in spite of the system trying to shut off coolant flow. sure it's the problem. I was somewhat thinking that might be the issue since I just dumped a bottle of coolant leak sealer in there a week or so That stuff can clog the monovalve. As we have suggested, grab your screwdriver and take out the insert. It's the easiest job on your car, and a visual inspection will tell you a lot. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D
It's trying as hard as it can not to put out cold air, and waits till the engine temp picks up and then blows in hot air... Sounds like it thinks it's supposed to heat, but on MIN it's supposed to not heat at all. It could be that the pushbutton array has bad solder joints and/or switch contacts inside, it's certainly something that happens on these. Easy enough to repair, usually, but requires decent disassembly and soldering skills. When that's what is broken, the ACC system basically goes insane. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Adjusting ALDA
Marshall wrote:CAN be done on an OM602.96 engine without pulling off the
intake
manifold (it just looks impossible).
Biy Howdy!! Does it ever! I spent 10 minutes planning my attack and it does
look to be *impossible* but the authors (of the above link) comments on
removal taking less than 2 minutes is enough to convince me to try!
Is it better to turn the adjusting screw in 1/2 turn increments? Or should
I go with 1.5 turns and back it down if needed? I believe I read that I'll
get smoke if it's adjusted too far.
BTW, I've searched the manual (on CD) for the EGR photo and location but
couldn't find it. I haven't gone thru all 89 pages of the engine manual but
so far ... the Table of Contents do not list a EGR - but I'll find it.
I did find a mouse nest though - removed the plastic cover behind the
battery and started vacuuming to get some of the tree seeds out - and out
comes a mouse nest from beneath the air intake. I'm sure it came from the
PO in MA.
re my start up problem. It used to only do it when the temp was below - not
it's doing it at 60 and down. Also, it used to only do it when the engine
had sat for 10 or more hours. This morning it stumbled after sitting for
only 2 hours after a 20+ mile drive. It will smooth out pretty quickly -
especially with my foot to the floor -
It seems to me like there might be some kind of cold start device that's not
working properly - or maybe an emissions control device that take a few
seconds to settle down? I've changed the fuel filters twice and used a fuel
conditioner - without any indication I may have an algae problem - and I'm
using a quality fuel station that pumps a lot of fuel to truckers. It may
be fuel related, but it's not a fuel problem - if that makes any sense?
Oh well, I need to keep studying the engine systems schematics - probably
need to spend some time with the electrical schematics also --
Thanks for everyone's help ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D (at 285k running
perfectly))
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Adjusting ALDA
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I've seen 2 methods for adjusting the ALDA - turning the set screw .5 to
1.5
turns or adding a shim.
Is there a preferred method? Why is one better than the other?
I need to adjust it and want to use the best method - I also plan to
check
the pressure hose and and banjo fitting.
Thanks - BTW, I hope to use the ALDA removal method shown at
http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/ where the intake
manifold is left in place.
There is NO really correct way as Mercedes discourages any adjustment
in the field. Still they finally did publish a description in the late
'80s/early 90s (attached) and that might be considered preferred.
It CAN be done on an OM602.96 engine without pulling off the intake
manifold (it just looks impossible).
The screw adjustment (as outlined) is MUCH easier and minor adjustments
a quick and easy. Establishing the correct shim thickness is more of a
challenge.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
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Re: [MBZ] '87 190D blinker and blower problems
Daniel Konow wrote: Marshall, Zoltan and Jim et al Thanks for your input. I took the hazard switch out and apart. I used verv fine grid sandpaper to clean and smoothen the contacts. However, the hazard still works fine, the blinker still does not. High beam and whiper are fine too. Any suggestions how to get the blinker back on track? Daniel Please NEVER use sandpaper on electrical contacts. It removes any plating that MIGHT be present. Use a quality chemical cleaner designed for the purpose. Some of them can actually make the contacts better (capable of carrying more current) than they were when new. If the blinker works reliably (but the blinker contact that causes the turn signals to fail is one that's NOT functional when the blinker is working), then it is most likely the stalk switch. It's a lot more expensive to replace and repair is even less likely to be successful. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Tire Purchase
Johnny, I just purchased a set of Michelins for the Powerstroke at Wal-mart. Out the door price of $166.00 each, which included lifetime rotation and balance, tire disposal, taxes, etc for a set of 235/85/R16's. I normally limit my exposure to Wally World, but these prices were cheaper than anyone else. James Jetton 1987 300SDL 143k 1996 Ford F-250 Powerstroke 171k From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue May 16 17:15:55 2006 Received: from rwcrmhc11.comcast.net ([204.127.192.81]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1Fg39H-0006OX-Bi for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tue, 16 May 2006 17:15:55 + Received: from [192.168.1.2] (c-24-3-195-27.hsd1.pa.comcast.net[24.3.195.27]) by comcast.net (rwcrmhc11) with ESMTP id 20060516171550m11009elsse; Tue, 16 May 2006 17:15:50 + Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 13:15:49 -0400 From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Organization: University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine User-Agent: Thunderbird 1.5.0.2 (Windows/20060308) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] References: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] In-Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Subject: Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 17:15:55 - Levi Smith wrote: It's been raining a lot lately so I haven't had the chance to get in there and take a look at the monovalve, but here's my question: If it's simply sticking on and allowing coolant flow, why is it not even putting out cold air when the engine is still cold? I could understand the coolant overpowering the AC once it's hot, but when the engine is cold, it seems that the fan speed should kick up and put out cold air. But it doesn't. It's trying as hard as it can not to put out cold air, and waits till the engine temp picks up and then blows in hot air... In the absence of power, the monovalve results in full heat (full heat is the default so that defrost ALWAYS works if the engine is running - it's the law in Germany). Most insert failures result in full heat. It is ONLY when power is applied and the insert functions as designed that heat is shut off. If the insert is torn, there will be full heat at low engine speeds, and heat will diminish at higher engine speeds, only to return at lower engine speeds. AFTER you get the monovalve working properly, THEN you can start to diagnose the AC system. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Heat stuck on 83' 300D
Jim Cathey wrote: It's trying as hard as it can not to put out cold air, and waits till the engine temp picks up and then blows in hot air... Sounds like it thinks it's supposed to heat, but on MIN it's supposed to not heat at all. It could be that the pushbutton array has bad solder joints and/or switch contacts inside, it's certainly something that happens on these. Easy enough to repair, usually, but requires decent disassembly and soldering skills. When that's what is broken, the ACC system basically goes insane. The cabin temp sensor (that is activated by air drawn past it along the hose to the cabin temp sensor in the dash by venturi effect from the blower) must have cabin air drawn past it by the blower to operate the temperature controller that turns the monovalve and compressor on and off. If air isn't drawn past the sensor, it measures the temperature of the stagnant air being warmed/cooled by the dashboard assembly as cabin temp and acts accordingly. That results in erratic temperature control Of course, that should not be of any concern if the temp controller is set at MAX or MIN. Not sure what the spectrum of symptoms are when the temp control module (not the push button controller) fails. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Puzzeling Engine Diagonis Results
Peter Merle wrote: Agreed , that is still an outstanding thing I have to do. I might do a leakdown evaluation my making a home made tool. BTW OM617 non turbo heads - do the crack and if so is there a common place where they do , are there any typical symptoms? Cracked heads ARE possible, but VERY rare. There will be at least 10-20 blown head gaskets (and blown head gaskets are rare as well) to every cracked head. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
Neal Kramarcy wrote: Jim, I've already replaced the caliper and got no change. None of the mounting bolts look too long, the emergancy brake is used regularly and is snug at about 4 clicks. The puzzle is that it occurs regularly after a standard set of highway miles(10-12) and after an interval of 8-10 hrs (parked during the day or overnight) is absent until the usual distance is driven. When I replaced the rotors I was surprised at the difficulty of removing the old versus the ease that this new one seems to almost fall off the hub. I've attributed this to my failure to release the parking in the initial replacement and have wondered if I damaged something in the parking brake mechanism during the rotor removal. The right side has behaved fine, but I do recall the rotor was easier to remove. Whether I realized what was making the removal difficult or merely a difference in the parking brake tightness, who knows. Thanks for the help. What you report is consistent with the e-brake shoe dragging against the rotor when things heat up. Applying either the foot brake or the hand brake will cause the noise to subside. Commonly happens if the holding spring fails. REMOVE the rotor and examine the shoes and how they are secured. Occasionally the friction material from the e-brake shoe will spontaneously detach and grind away. Once in a while a small rock will enter the e-brake housing and cause havoc. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] cruise control amp
Sunil Hari wrote: Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin variety? If not 12 pins, how many is it? I haven't had time to extract the unit. As I recall they are 14 pin, but have a plug-in that that earlier units don't have. It may be matched to the car/engine. I HAVE NOT LOOKED THAT UP and don't have time to do it now. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] rear brake
Thanks Marshall, I'll look at it tonight. Neal Marshall Booth wrote: Neal Kramarcy wrote: Jim, I've already replaced the caliper and got no change. None of the mounting bolts look too long, the emergancy brake is used regularly and is snug at about 4 clicks. The puzzle is that it occurs regularly after a standard set of highway miles(10-12) and after an interval of 8-10 hrs (parked during the day or overnight) is absent until the usual distance is driven. When I replaced the rotors I was surprised at the difficulty of removing the old versus the ease that this new one seems to almost fall off the hub. I've attributed this to my failure to release the parking in the initial replacement and have wondered if I damaged something in the parking brake mechanism during the rotor removal. The right side has behaved fine, but I do recall the rotor was easier to remove. Whether I realized what was making the removal difficult or merely a difference in the parking brake tightness, who knows. Thanks for the help. What you report is consistent with the e-brake shoe dragging against the rotor when things heat up. Applying either the foot brake or the hand brake will cause the noise to subside. Commonly happens if the holding spring fails. REMOVE the rotor and examine the shoes and how they are secured. Occasionally the friction material from the e-brake shoe will spontaneously detach and grind away. Once in a while a small rock will enter the e-brake housing and cause havoc. Marshall
[MBZ] w126 column stalk replacement
The thread about 190 blinker issues reminds me that I have a similar problem on my 300sd, have a used switch sitting on my back seat, but I've been putting off trying to do it, having taken a look at what a *wonderful* job it promises to be. Any tips, apart from finding a trained octopus for the job? Tks -- Mac Steve MacSween Aylmer, Quebec (Canada) '82 300sd '82 240d (x2) '60 220s '87 Volvo 245 (waiting for OM616 transplant) '83 SAAB 900T (waiting for salvation)
Re: [MBZ] Shamless plug for Club 123D spring rally
From: tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] ...unfortunately, my grandmother will have my head on a platter if I don't go to Kansas City this weekend instead. Next time, Vince. Sounds like a good time. Tom, 123 uber alles Right on, I'm hoping it will run well. We keep floating between 9 and 10. It's good enough, this year's date turned out to be bad for several, despite how hard I tried to coordinate with people's plans. We had a few out-of-state folks thinking about it, but... There will be some good photos to entice folks next year on the website eventually. Hope to see you next year! (There may be the hard rally in the fall ;) Vince www.club123d.org _ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
Re: [MBZ] w126 column stalk replacement
Any tips, apart from finding a trained octopus for the job? My son attempted to do a chin-up on ours, so I had to replace it. Not as awful as it might appear to be, though I can't remember if I had to remove a connector shell or not to get it threaded through the column. (At times I have had to do this.) -- Jim
[MBZ] 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...
Many thanks to Marshall and Jim for their assistance in solving the case of the floppy seat backs in her 1985 300CD. Anyway, this morning I discovered that I can manually move the locking hardware on the inside of each bucket seat into the lock position with the engine running, and the seats then stay locked safely while we are driving! Each seat back unlocks properly when a door is opened or the release button on the side of the chair is pressed, but the linkages will not move by themselves into the locking position (although they will stay there once I slide the hooked lever into place). Is it possible there is a problem in the locking circuit only? BTW, I'd appreciate it if someone could send me Marshall's message containing the links to the manual pages as i accidentally deleted it. :(( Andrew 1983 300TD 1985 300CD
Re: [MBZ] 1985 300CD Seat locking problem solved, sort of...
andrew strasfogel wrote: Many thanks to Marshall and Jim for their assistance in solving the case of the floppy seat backs in her 1985 300CD. Anyway, this morning I discovered that I can manually move the locking hardware on the inside of each bucket seat into the lock position with the engine running, and the seats then stay locked safely while we are driving! Each seat back unlocks properly when a door is opened or the release button on the side of the chair is pressed, but the linkages will not move by themselves into the locking position (although they will stay there once I slide the hooked lever into place). Is it possible there is a problem in the locking circuit only? BTW, I'd appreciate it if someone could send me Marshall's message containing the links to the manual pages as i accidentally deleted it. :(( http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/Index/Groups/91Seats.htm Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] cruise control amp
I tried removing the CC amp today - I removed the black plastic panel, unplugged the CC amp, but I couldn't see/access the screws or bolts holding the amp in. Where are they? Also, do I have to remove the tan dash panel just below the steering column? If so, how? I thought I removed all the screws (incl. 3 behind the e-brake release) but it wasn't coming off. On 5/16/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sunil Hari wrote: Anyone know offhand if my CC amp in my 92 300D is of the 12-pin variety? If not 12 pins, how many is it? I haven't had time to extract the unit. As I recall they are 14 pin, but have a plug-in that that earlier units don't have. It may be matched to the car/engine. I HAVE NOT LOOKED THAT UP and don't have time to do it now. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] cruise control amp
In a message dated 5/16/2006 2:50:13 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I tried removing the CC amp today - I removed the black plastic panel, unplugged the CC amp, but I couldn't see/access the screws or bolts holding the amp in. Where are they? Also, do I have to remove the tan dash panel just below the steering column? If so, how? I thought I removed all the screws (incl. 3 behind the e-brake release) but it wasn't coming off. Sunil, Yes, remove the tan panel. After you remove the screws, there are a few poppers that must be released on the trim panel. Just give a careful tug at one end and work your way accross. All the cruises I have done are held in place by a single 6mm bolt that goes through the aluminum brake pedal framework. ON yours, I believe you will find the head of the bolt on the left side of the cruise control. Start out by feeling for the head of the bolt and then you will know where to position yourself to get at it Use a 10mm deep socket with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, if you have one. Do not worry about any device that is piggy backed onto the cruise amp. You can just unplug it and then separate them on the work bench. Earlier models went in from the right side and the brake pedal was definitely an obstacle. Good luck, Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 262 K miles 98 ML 320, 142 K miles
Re: [MBZ] The wave
Zoltan, Back in the 50s and 60s in when I was a youngster riding in my parents 219 and 250S, the standard Mercedes greeting in the U.S. was to give a couple beeps of the horn on the infrequent occasion when another Mercedes was sighted. The quaint custom died after the cars became more common. Bruce Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: As I drove home today I had a 190E coming the other way on the 2-way highway I travel. The thought occurred to me: The other types of vehicles that I have been into in my life have been sort of specialized, and as such, when you happen upon another one, you give a nod or a quick friendly gesture (as in the Mopar thumbs-up, or the Harley (or really any motorbike) nod or wave). As our Mercedes' flew past eachother, I felt the urge to give some sort of signal, so I just nodded slightly. Eh, maybe Merz isn't rare enough to do that. Maybe I should reserve it for 123s. I know that when I pass another classic 900 Saab when driving mine, I sometimes get an acknowledgement. I think I just may be an entirely too friendly person. Come to think of it, I know that bus drivers wave at eachother. What about semi-truck drivers? Probably too many of them on the road to do that. Brian 83 240D And other distinct vehicles in history ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net Bruce 82 300CD 334kmi 'His' 85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers' 75 240D 202kmi 'Donner' 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen' 73 220D 'It' - Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. PC-to-Phone calls for ridiculously low rates. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue May 16 22:31:29 2006 Received: from web51807.mail.yahoo.com ([206.190.38.238]) by server5.arterytc5.net with smtp (Exim 4.52) id 1Fg84f-0005uu-Cr for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tue, 16 May 2006 22:31:29 + Received: (qmail 5204 invoked by uid 60001); 16 May 2006 22:31:21 - DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws; s=s1024; d=yahoo.com; h=Message-ID:Received:Date:From:Subject:To:MIME-Version:Content-Type:Content-Transfer-Encoding; b=gPHuiXbVeXnpW0muJ4/U2moOu+hOjI/E0Y3XyF+xtJ/Tp1N7syoeXiJf+omk4b1E31cOlO7UiOykfjW42Ipq6FEHxf5CSVssxko4Ps/ig+bLjukOg5WHDMJXEkgqcpSf5s1+V+FePqPBPKYO7Zb4m3SgkQCRwdq0n4605olHWnU= ; Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Received: from [130.76.32.15] by web51807.mail.yahoo.com via HTTP; Tue, 16 May 2006 15:31:01 PDT Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 15:31:01 -0700 (PDT) From: B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] MIME-Version: 1.0 X-Antivirus-Scanner: Clean mail though you should still use an Antivirus Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit X-Content-Filtered-By: Mailman/MimeDel 2.1.6 Subject: [MBZ] Torque for delivery valve holder X-BeenThere: [EMAIL PROTECTED] X-Mailman-Version: 2.1.6 Precedence: list Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Id: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes_striplin.net.striplin.net List-Unsubscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Archive: http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net List-Post: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Help: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] List-Subscribe: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] X-List-Received-Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 22:31:29 - Gentlemen, Would someone please refresh my memory on the proper procedure to torque down the delivery valve holders on the 82 300CD? After running straight bio for several months I noticed that the delivery valves were weeping, and when I tightened one of them, the car ran noticeably better, especially the idle. I really ought to torque them down correctly but I seem to recall some special tightening sequence was needed. Thanks, Bruce 82 300CD 334kmi 'His' 85 300CD 240kmi 'Hers' 75 240D 202kmi 'Donner' 77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen' 73 220D 'It' - Blab-away for as little as 1¢/min. Make PC-to-Phone Calls using Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue May 16 22:35:37 2006 Received: from imo-d01.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.33]) by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1Fg88c-0006Hj-Cb for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tue, 16 May 2006 22:35:37 + Received: from [EMAIL PROTECTED] by imo-d01.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.5.) id 5.1b1.11d9cba8 (22680) for [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Tue, 16 May 2006 18:35:26 -0400 (EDT) Received: from mblkn-m12 (mblkn-m12.mblk.aol.com [64.12.170.130]) by air-in04.mx.aol.com (v109.12) with ESMTP id MAILININ41-5898446a53ae1a3; Tue, 16 May 2006 18:35:26 -0400 Date: Tue, 16 May 2006 18:35:26 -0400 Message-Id:
Re: [MBZ] Torque for delivery valve holder
25 ft/lbs twice, then 30 ft/lbs. Leaks, however, are bad o-rings that need to be replaced. Get new internal copper seals and do that at the same time. Peter
