All this talk of clipping tubes and solid state amps makes me think of the
many experiments performed at the music store I worked at a while back. Of
course we had to try every piece of gear out to make sure that it worked.
Guitars, amps, speakers, whatever. There are companies making very comple
I have been using the Opera web browser for a long time. It's faster than
IE whatever, a smaller download, free, and it works well in almost every web
site that I have found.
Probably what you will have to do is download and install several browsers
to see what you like best.
There are some pretty
I'm not keen on trying something like this, personally.
http://www.dieselgiant.com has a block heater that actually goes in the
radiator hose, and heats the coolant there. Seems like it would be a lot
easier to replace the section of hose there than remove the block heater.
I've never read any re
The discussion here has answered a lot of questions, and of course
opened up some more for me. The carbon thing is confusing me. I
understand the heat release thing from earlier, but I'm not clear on
if the tips of the plugs themselves get covered with carbon and then
don't come out of the hole,
> Observe the torque specified by the manufacturer when
> > screwing in a new glow plug:
> >
> > Note: The tightening torque of the connecting nut must be taken
> > into account when dealing with glow plugs with screw connection:
> > The Beru ring-ratchet-spanner
>
If it has not been done yet, I would change the B2 piston while you have the
tranny out of the car. In my SD it was doable but tricky with it still in
the car. I don't know if a 124 is wide enough to pull it off. I'd also bet
it could be done in half the time out of the car. Mine was leaking from a
l to dismantle and assemble glow
> plugs, even in very tricky spots.
>
> Glow plug thread Tightening torque
> M 4 2 Nm
> M 5 3 Nm
> M 8 10 Nm
> M 10 12–15 Nm
> M 12 20–22 Nm
>
>
> Also see
> http://www.beru.com/english/produkte/gluehkerzen/einbautipps.php
>
>
> And don't lose the nuts holding the electrical wires on the plugs -
> they're
> a bear to relocate once they fall off into the engine bay.
>
> On Nov 27, 2007 10:55 PM, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Today I went outside with my newly liberated meter,
Today I went outside with my newly liberated meter, and found that 3 of my 5
glow plugs seem to be bad. My glow plug light stopped working a little
while back, and I have not been able to check that out until now. I
measured the impedance of each one at the relay. So, I'm figuring that I
should
If it has not been done yet, I would change the B2 piston while you have the
tranny out of the car. In my SD it was doable but tricky with it still in
the car. I don't know if a 124 is wide enough to pull it off. I'd also bet
it could be done in half the time out of the car. Mine was leaking f
Does anybody have an idea where the blinker relay is on an 82 300SD? I
tried working the emergency flasher and it didn't really do anything. Now I
don't get any lights at all when the signal lights should be working. I
still hear the relay fluttering, but that is all I get.
On 11/7/07, Jim Cath
What about the 126?
On 11/10/07, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> First run of W140s, except the electronics.
>
> The last really good ones were the W124 chassis, KE-Jet models.
>
> The newer ones suffer from lousy sheet metal and poor crash protection.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
I would imagine that a diesel hybrid would be the smartest way to go, at
least using currently available technology. I know that there are some out
there, at least in the prototype phase, but I can't see any real obstacle
for them. Thinking in terms of the last Golf TDI which got what 45mpg? If
, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Thanks Tarek, now...
> I was assuming that it was the relay because all of the lights seem to be
> working, or seemed, I will have to check that, but on all of the cars I have
> had the blinker just stayed on when a light was out, and alth
Thanks Tarek, now...
I was assuming that it was the relay because all of the lights seem to be
working, or seemed, I will have to check that, but on all of the cars I have
had the blinker just stayed on when a light was out, and although I will
concede that these are not the cars I have driven most
Today I needed to drive, and I try to be courteous and use my blinkers.
When I signalled the lights would light sometimes, and you could hear the
relay clicking, but a much faster rate. It was almost a fluttering sound
rather than the steady tick-tick. It seems like this is worse when it is
cold
and relay seems like it should be easier for me to do than weld the
exhaust back together.
On 11/5/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Chris Lane wrote:
> >
> > No, the glow plug light just stopped lighting up, basicly as soon as we
> got
> > the car put
cking out
how to check them on the dieselgiant web site.
On 11/5/07, Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> "Chris Lane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
>
> > I also am thinking I have some glow plug related problems, all of
> > the sudden. Just in tim
DIY was the original idea when I bought the car. Figuring that since there
was no computer I would be able to do a lot of the owrk on it myself. Of
course my background is a bit more limited in working on cars or anything
else, but I figured there's no better time to learn than now.
I also am thi
I wish I could say no, but for right now, yes. Although I guess its about
what I was looking at paying carx to weld in a new section of flexpipe. I
could probably bolt the new section in. Lots of PB blaster or something is
in order so that I
don't destroy something I need and end up needing to r
I have to say that I am guilty of blowing through many stopsigns, although I
do tend to stop at lights when needed. I also tend iff possible to try to
time my sign blowing to coincide with a driver who has made a legal stop at
a sign, and cross with him. Not that that makes it any better.
On 11/
that it was
> cracked in the 300D 2.5. It is a welded into one piece pipe - on the
> 602 engine anyway.
>
> On 11/2/07, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Ok, so I really do need to get this back on the road. Has anybody
> > experienced a similar break in the exhaust
I think that the biggest problem on a bicycle is that unless there is a
specific bike lane you are either on the sidewalk or in the street. I know
here, when I ride there are almost never bike lanes. I tend to go where my
speed most closely matches the traffic. If I'm going up a very long hill,
appropriate size? I guess ideally I should learn to weld, and do this myself.
On 10/31/07, Chris Lane <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I didn't see clamps at all on this part. The part that broke is right
> above where it makes the bend to go to the back of the car.
>
&g
I didn't see clamps at all on this part. The part that broke is right above
where it makes the bend to go to the back of the car.
On 10/31/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > Is this something that is just hammered into place? It doesn't look
> > like
> > something that you could wel
Ok, so not long ago I was posting a question about the B2 piston. Well that
is fixed, and working great now. In the process of fixing one thing I
managed to break something else. In order to get a little extra clearance
to work, the rear part of the exhaust system got lowered with the front
stil
Ok, so here is the situation. I have a 1982 300SD with a bad B2 piston. I
know its bad, I had the "classic symptoms", took it apart, and the piston
came out in pieces, several of them actually. I have a new piston ready to
go in, I have the new plastic ring to replace the old metal one, new oran
Ok, so here is the situation. I have a 1982 300SD with a bad B2 piston. I
know its bad, I had the "classic symptoms", took it apart, and the piston
came out in pieces, several of them actually. I have a new piston ready to
go in, I have the new plastic ring to replace the old metal one, new oran
In Missouri we have to pay a sales tax, based on the sale price of the
vehicle when it is purchased. Then pay the registration fee, which is
roughly $50/2 years. Also, in order to register you must have a state
inspection, and a state emissions inspection. Those are different fees, $19
for safe
I'm really sorry for your loss.
I have ridden a bicycle for commutes, and day to day running around. It can
get really scary. Drivers assume that they have the right of way. Even
when a bicycle rider is doing the right thing there are always people that
don't want to allow you to share the road
The other day I was at my mom's house, in the garage, and looked though some
of my dad's old tools. I found a Proto micrometer style tourque wrench, but
I know nothing about it beyond that. Is this a good brand? How can I check
it to make sure its still good, what do I need to know. I know it
The really simple thing that would make the heater not work, or at least
just blow cold air it the thermostat being stuck open. Easy fix at least in
a 126, I would imagine its pretty similar in a 116
On 5/26/07, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Ed Booher wrote:
>
> Thinking about takin
The Insight actually did get better mileage on the highway. The Prius does
not. I don't know about any of the others, because I think they have
stopped really using hybrid technology to get better mileage. They seem to
be leaning more toward a higher performance out of a smaller engine
directio
I'm just wondering how difficult it would be to put the manual transmission
into my 300SD. It sounds like it has everything I need, except the longer
driveshaft, which I could probably dig up in a junkyard. I'm wondering if
it would work at all, or would the considerable increase in weight kill
If I'm correct in my diagnosis of my 300SD having a bad B2 piston, it never
nade any strange noises. It started to flare between first and second, and
then suddenly it feels like you have the clutch halfway to the floor on a
stick shift. I have not had time to get under the car, and with my lack
Diesel here has been at $2.89 for a little while.
Gas here was $3.29 yesterday for regular unleaded.
Apparently, what is going on is that the EPA has set specific gasoline
blends to be used in specific places. So, for St. Louis we have one
refinery that is making all of our gas, and it doesn't ma
It seems like that woulc be a great idea, except for the gell point of
animal fats being higher than that of plant based fats. Lard, chicken fat,
and tallow are all solid at room temperature and higher. Ghee which is
basicly clarified butter, is also solid at room temperature. Olive oil,
rapese
My odometer stopped before I bought the car. But it stopped at 310,930
miles, I think, I'm not in it right now. I know I have put at least a few
thousand more on it.
Chris
On 4/2/07, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
331k Km is still a baby! Convert that to miles Thats about what I go
So after all of the research I have done and questions I have asked I have
my problem fairly narrowed down to the B2 piston in my transmission. I have
an 82 300SD. I just the other day noticed a large amount of tranny fluid on
my driveway. Since the slab the car sits on is not level, I can kind
So this would lead me to wonder if I could also get almost any transmission
from a w126 to work in my 82 300SD as well? I'm sure that the auto in a
w123 300D will. Of course what I would like is to replace the
atomatic with a 5 speed manual. Are there any that would work, that I could
find, and
My 300SD did that when I would turn my wheels as I backed out of the
driveway. It seemed to get better as the car warmed up. Check your fluid
level. Mine was low when it did this. I'm not sure where mine is leaking
from, but I have been periodically checking the level and topping it off.
Chris
"It's not normal, it's a sign of wear. They don't do it when they are
new(er)."
So I could be ok, since drive generally engaged pretty quickly before
this thing started? Reverse still does.
I don't have a lot to compare it with, since I have really only driven
one other car with an automatic tran
e D.
If you can send teh write up, Allen that would be great.
Chris
On 3/9/07, Allan Streib <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
"Chris Lane" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> The things I have been told to do are, change the filter, and change
> the fluid to synthetic, change the B2
I'm glad to find another group online to help me with my Benz. It has been
an adventure.
My problem is that when I put the car in a forward gear, it doesn't want to
actually hold onto first gear. If I use very minimal pressure on the
accelerator pedal it is fine, but if I actually push down the
44 matches
Mail list logo
