I sanded the primed area lightly and tried to use the airbrush to put
on a finish coat. I didn't thin the paint enough, it was too thick,
and I didn't have time to redo it. It went on spattery and strange,
and the whole vicinity near where I was painting ended up coated in
cotton-candy-like cobw
I looked in the trunk of the 190D, and it was dripping wet. We've had
a lot of rain recently, and the damaged taillight was funneling in
water. What with heating and cooling every surface was covered in
condensation, and water was even dripping out of the trunk light.
Time to do something about
I will have to look at my 3 190's to see
Jim Cathey wrote:
It doesnt have the bucket, it should have the long screw thing that
sticks
down in one of the lug holes and screws in the bottom of the spare tire
well
Through a lug hole and not the center hole with the plug
removed? I've never seen
It doesnt have the bucket, it should have the long screw thing that
sticks
down in one of the lug holes and screws in the bottom of the spare tire
well
Through a lug hole and not the center hole with the plug
removed? I've never seen that system, I guess. I'll have
to find a whatever-it-is th
It doesnt have the bucket, it should have the long screw thing that sticks
down in one of the lug holes and screws in the bottom of the spare tire
well
>> The spare tyre hold down looks like a shallow bucket with a
>> large plastic screw thread sticking out the bottom.
>
> So it's a 126-st
The spare tyre hold down looks like a shallow bucket with a
large plastic screw thread sticking out the bottom.
So it's a 126-style arrangement then. That's odd, I thought
those had a large screw thread arrangement, whereas this has
something like a 10-12mm bolt screw hole. Maybe there
Jim, et al.
The spare tyre hold down looks like a shallow bucket with a
large plastic screw thread sticking out the bottom.
201 890 00 07 , not sure of the year of yours, but 85 1900E, 87
190DT's are all the same.
YMMV
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesels Three
my spare tire is loose, and
the se
So, my rear shocks are shot too, I'm planning to take
up Rusty on his sale. But my spare tire is loose, and
the securing hardware is missing. There's a sheet-metal
construction in the center of the well with a screw thread
in the middle. What's the mate look like? Can't say as
I've ever seen a
I drove the car to band tonight, and I must say that with the new
front-end parts the car's handling is _much_ improved. There's
a clunking in the rear over bumps and I thought that a couple of
potholes felt like they broke the back end loose from the pavement,
I wonder if the rear shocks need re
I measured the resistance of the shock absorber (strut) according to
the book. (Push rod in 84mm while on spring scale noting 'weight'
while holding it at this extension. Should read 280+/-30 N when new,
170 N minimum. Also note 'weight' required to push rod in 50mm at a
100mm/minute rate, shoul
> You're doing all this with the stuff on the car right?
Yes, on the car. Did not remove spring, did not remove
brake disc/hub from the steering knuckle. Harbor Freight
ball joint kit, with some pipe sections cut and welded
for removal adapters. Kit's own pieces served for insertion.
http://us
You're doing all this with the stuff on the car right?
--R
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I trial-fit the new ball joint and got it lined up. While the two
> pipe sections from the original kit worked well for size, they were
> together too long to fit into the clamp! I found, though, that I
> didn't need
I trial-fit the new ball joint and got it lined up. While the two
pipe sections from the original kit worked well for size, they were
together too long to fit into the clamp! I found, though, that I
didn't need a pipe on the bottom at all, the adapter flange actually
fit the ball joint well enoug
Success! I dug into my bag of newly-purchased pipe fittings and found
that the best choices were the 1-1/2" and 2" galvanized pipe sections.
I cut a length of 1-1/2" sufficient to extend from the ridge of the
ball joint to above the post, approximately the same length as the
32mm socket I'd tried
> You will need some sort of an adapter to push the old ball joint out
> (a short bit of pipe, sawed off straight across will work) as none of
> the sleeves supplied with the tool will fit inside the hole.
When I need a tool like that the first thing I reach for is
the Harbor Freight 3/4" socket s
You will need some sort of an adapter to push the old ball joint out
(a short bit of pipe, sawed off straight across will work) as none of
the sleeves supplied with the tool will fit inside the hole.
One of them will fit going back in.
What you want to do is put a large sleeve and the "cap" f
I used the grinder to remove the ridges on the outer rim of the brake
disc. That allowed the caliper to slide off, then I hung it off to
the side with a piece of wire tied to the spring. I was then able to
hammer loose the nut holding the steering knuckle to the axle ball
joint. That was tough,
They are gas charged, and if yours is actually moving easily (as opposed to the
rod moving in the now loose mount!) it's bad. Should be nearly at full
extension as the car is sitting, usually requires only a small amount of
compression to put the bolts into the steering knuckle. If you can mo
Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> Anybody know just how stiff a good 201 strut is supposed to be?
Isn't it supposed to be gas charged?
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T
I've finally started on the ball joint replacement. We'll see if
the Harbor Freight press kit can be coerced to do the job...
I jacked up the car under the wishbone (so I don't need to compress
the spring) and removed the wheel. I got several of the steering
knuckle bolts broken loose and remove
If you are looking to replace with the original size, you will find
that on the lower door post on the drivers side.
On 6/16/08, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jill called from her road trip yesterday, she'd lost a tire
> and was asking if we had a spare. Yes, look in the trunk!
> Fun th
Jill called from her road trip yesterday, she'd lost a tire
and was asking if we had a spare. Yes, look in the trunk!
Fun thing to have to do on the side of the freeway.
Anyway, looks like she'll be buying a new set of tires on
the road, so to speak, and she's currently riding on three
different
> It's better to charge it than drive around with vacuum in it, I think.
I agree, but circumstances conspire...
I didn't want to charge it, or begin to, until I had the
filtration business figured out. I got another hour on
the vacuum pump this morning. Jill just drove off in the
car again.
--
Ah, I see. If the system is still down where it's supposed to be,
charge it. I dump the first can of freon into the high side with the
compressor off -- attach and puncture, bleed line, invert can and
drive the liquid right in. Wait a minute or so for it to equalize
and start dissolving
> Leaving it at vacuum and having it drop to 23" means one of two
> things -- there is some water in the dessicant (most likely) or
You misunderstand, the _gauge_ set dropped to 23". It was
lying on the freezer at the time. My wife was off driving
the car. I think the car's system is plenty int
I'm having this done today on my 300D with a bad compressor. It's
required for a new compressor warrentty, and I'd not put a new (or
repaired) compressor in without one. There is no way to remove the
crud from a parallel pass condenser or evaporator, especially the
evaporator, and sooner
Monday morning I sucked the AC system out, but didn't have
time to do more. (And it's a bit cold to do the charging.)
I also put in about 130ml of R12 oil. This, as some may
recall, is the car that had its pump seize up and which
I un-seized and reassembled. The quantity of oil is that
specified
> Fairly small pocket of liquid I imagine?
A few tablespoons in this case. When it got too murky
to see through I'd just slop more water over it with
the bucket and have a look to see if I was done. If
not, drop in another pinch of soda and come back later.
I bought a bunch of bricks of modelin
old it up there. I'm very excited
about this idea...
-Curt
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 17:54:31 -0700
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=f
> Did you just do what I think you did? I'd love to see a picture of
> this.
Didn't take one, unfortunately. The positive wire has to 'see'
the rust, so it can't do anything about under-paint bubbling.
This was a big patch out in the open where I think there was
an in-storage drip onto it over a
: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
I replaced the glued tow-hook cover, it looks good. I then pulled out
the shifter surround and refreshed
Rolf wrote:
> That is brilliant.
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/index.html
I highly recommend the Chicken Wagon & Frankenheap sagas.
John
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That is brilliant. I have a few rust spots on the wifes wagon and will
use this method. It should be noted that removing the battery cables is
probably a good idea here :)
-Rolf
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I replaced the glued tow-hook cover, it looks good. I then pulled out
> the shifter surround and r
I replaced the glued tow-hook cover, it looks good. I then pulled out
the shifter surround and refreshed my memory, there are two Becker
plugs for the rear speakers I'd put in there to be disconnected when
the JVC is in place. So I did that. Since I was there I popped the
bottom off of the flash
> In the two or three times I've had to take advantage of it in the 40
> years
> I've had my Craftsman rachet, they've given me a box of replacement
> innards. I take the old innards out and put the new innards in.
Dropped by Sears today, and they had a replacement (refurbished)
that looks a lot
> See of you can find a supply of citric acid somewhere (you need about
> 2.5 lbs) and do a citric acid flush -- will clean things out much
> better than plain water or cheap coolant.
Yes, I've done this before. Unfortunately the baking supply
house I got it from before has closed their doors to
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 09:16:21 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I drained the coolant again and re-filled it with water. I then
> removed the crap battery, returning it to the generator, and put in
> the new Group 49 battery I'd bought last year. (It's been on a tender
> this entire ti
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 08:30:08 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> It all went fairly smoothly, except that my Sears ratchet wrench finally
> gave up. (While trying to fix it to keep the release button from
> falling out I managed to lose something, I guess I'll check out that
> lifetime w
This sounds much better! Remember, the engine can actually RUN with
the pump 180 degrees out -- so long as the timing is fast, there will
be fuel in the cylinders and it will ignite. Won't run well, though!
Thanks for the hint on the tool, I may make one to set the timing on
my brother's S
I drained the coolant again and re-filled it with water. I then
removed the crap battery, returning it to the generator, and put in
the new Group 49 battery I'd bought last year. (It's been on a tender
this entire time.) I bolted it down using the hold-down plate I found
under the tray. Then I
Friday I removed the vacuum pump, chain tensioner, intake manifold,
and injector lines. I also removed the lift pump from the injection
pump, saving some fuel spillage and affording a later opportunity to
re-prime the system with it. I then turned the engine over to the
lock position, 15 degrees
In fact, a 7/16" bolt has an 11mm diameter shank. I bought a
3" long sample of the same today, $0.70, and what I found was that it
was an even better fit than the 27/64" drill bit. I cut off the
threads and cut/filed a notch into the end of the shank. It fits
nearly perfectly into the IP's timin
In fact, a 7/16" bolt has an 11mm diameter shank. I bought a
3" long sample of the same today, $0.70, and what I found was that it
was an even better fit than the 27/64" drill bit. I cut off the
threads and cut/filed a notch into the end of the shank. It fits
nearly perfectly into the IP's timin
> The dynanic tool uses the "prong" and a hall effect pickup along with
> the crank positions sensor pickup to determine timing.
By using the same type (VR?) of sensor for both locations,
error in the test equipment tend to cancel out. That is,
even if the IP sensor fired a bit late the crank sen
> You can also loosen the IP bolts and use the adjuster screw on the
> side of the mount for small changes if that pump is the same as the
> one on the 603, allowing you to set it the way you want it without
> the tool.
Yeah, it's got that screw. But I doubt it has the range, especially
since it
> Hmmm, I've seen all sorts of inductive pickups that do NOT have
> magnets called Hall effect pickups -- moving a piece of metal through
> the energized coil produces a signal. Easily could be wrong, though.
Yep, that's a variable-reluctance (VR) pickup, a.k.a. inductive
pickup. Not a Hall-effe
You can also loosen the IP bolts and use the adjuster screw on the
side of the mount for small changes if that pump is the same as the
one on the 603, allowing you to set it the way you want it without
the tool.
Very likely it slipped one spline on the hub. You may be able to set
it witho
Hmmm, I've seen all sorts of inductive pickups that do NOT have
magnets called Hall effect pickups -- moving a piece of metal through
the energized coil produces a signal. Easily could be wrong, though.
At any rate, and inductive pickup and the associated electronics to
signal when the pron
I removed the radiator, which was filled (again) with rather
dirty-looking coolant. I guess it's getting a flush after all. I'll
be sure to do this a few times until it runs clear. (Though dark like
oil, there's no oily film. I think it's just ancient grungy coolant.
I'm glad I didn't put in th
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I think that's just a VR sensor screwed into the hole in the IP.
> And some electronics, of course. Hall effect requires a magnet
> to swing by, which the prong on the IP's shaft is not. VR is
> not so picky, but requires the thing to be moving at a good clip.
> The AB box is
> measuring less than 20mV with a standard DMM is pretty silly.
My Flukes resolve down to 0.1mV on their lowest scale. Still
kind of coarse, but possibly workable. Amplifiers are easy
to flange up, of course.
> There is also an RIV method that times the engine with it running!
I think that's j
maybe you should google it
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> let us know more about then if/when you investigate it.
>
> Jim Cathey wrote:
>> I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
>> way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
>> with engine idli
let us know more about then if/when you investigate it.
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
> way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
> with engine idling measure the average voltage on the plugs and adjust
> the I
The dynanic tool uses the "prong" and a hall effect pickup along with
the crank positions sensor pickup to determine timing. I believe the
A/B tool does too.
Cheapest and easiest way to set the timing is to set the engine to 15
ATDC on #1 compression stroke, then adjust the position of the
Ages ago I replaced the IP on my 300TD (617.912), carefully positioning the
engine at the correct degree mark (I forget now what it was) and also
positioning the IP drive to line up with the mark. It smoked a LOT and could
not be brought into proper timing no matter what I did. I removed the IP
Jeff Zedic wrote:
> Is the A-B box using this method I wonder??
Here is a picture of the A-B box... It is mis-labeled as the RIV tool,
FWIW.
http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/IP__RIV_tool.jpg
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Jeff Zedic wrote:
> Is the A-B box using this method I wonder??
Nope! The same prong that the locking tool uses to lock the IP in
places, is used by the A-B tool. Basically, there are two feelers on
the "sensor", and when the prong is between the two feelers both of the
lights (A and B are li
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
> way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
> with engine idling measure the average voltage on the plugs and adjust
> the IP's timing until it peaks. Millivolts? Just my kind of
I have the MB timing tool in my posession
Luther
On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 10:01:24 -0600, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Heartbreak. The engine runs OK, but idles rough and blows a lot of
>> white smoke. Could the timing be off? Clogged injectors? I revved
>> i
Millivolt method? Hm...now that would be an interesting, and easy
way, to set the timing!
Is the A-B box using this method I wonder??
Zedic
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I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
with engine idling measure the average voltage on the plugs and adjust
the IP's timing until it peaks. Millivolts? Just my kind of animal!
This appears to be
> No chance its just condensation from sitting? My 190D also makes more
> smoke than I like when its cold... Not huge clouds though.
No, it does it when hot too.
> Question: Does the throttle respond promptly like it should or does it
> lag when coming off throttle?
A bit laggy off idle, but n
Jim Cathey wrote:
> Heartbreak. The engine runs OK, but idles rough and blows a lot of
> white smoke. Could the timing be off? Clogged injectors? I revved
> it a fair amount, and it sounds OK at speed, but it's blowing too much
> smoke to suit me. It never did stop, though it did settle down s
The IP locking tool fits onto a nub on the crankshaft of the IP, and
the correct setting is 15 ATDC when the tool is properly engaged. I
suppose you could screw it down and hold the shaft at an point in
rotation, though.
Rather minor changes in injection timing will produce poor fule
cons
See my previous message, sounds alot like how mine was...
-Curt
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 19:11:47 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; char
some little
whatsis inside can get mis-aligned and then you get weird throttle response AND
loads of smoke...
-Curt
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 17:31:43 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: &
This evening I put the air filter back on, cleaned out access to the
car, and took it for a test drive. It seemed to have about as much
power as before, maybe a touch less, but even fully warmed up it
smoked (white, stinky) a lot at low RPM's. Idle was still very rough,
and the car tended to die
> doesn't the timing notice on the front rail give two values depending
> on how you measure?
Que? Anyway, I tried to put the IP back as it was, with
no net change to timing. Up to now I was confident that
I had done so. Essentially I used the locking tool to
lock the IP shaft before putting it
On Mar 2, 2008, at 12:53 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
> Heartbreak. The engine runs OK, but idles rough and blows a lot of
> white smoke. Could the timing be off?
In the past having a had an IP set with wrong timing, can't remember
if too far before, or after
I can say it nicely produces large volu
D(iesel)-Day! I decided to make it easier on the battery and use
jumper cables to parallel the _other_ battery from the generator, thus
sharing the load. I should have done that yesterday. Anyway, I
cranked some more to make sure all five injectors were getting a good
supply of fuel, then I tigh
> Take the radiator to a shop, it's worth the $20 or so to have it
> cleaned out!
Not that one. It's so deformed and damaged that if it doesn't
work my next step is to replace it. It's amazing that it's
usable at all.
-- Jim
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Take the radiator to a shop, it's worth the $20 or so to have it
cleaned out! My brother's SDL was about half stuffed up with bugs
between the AC condenser and the rad, plus road dirt and oil. The
radiator shop has the tools and detergents to flush all that stuff
right out.
Peter
_
> Once you get fuel out of a injector line, I would tighten the nut --
> even poor injection will help the starter out a lot.
If it's firing. I didn't want it to, given that there is
no cooling system (yet).
> Also, don't bother with the GP until you have fuel at the injectors,
> nothing is gonn
On Sat, 1 Mar 2008 22:53:55 -0800 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I made sure the car was in neutral.
Great idea!
Craig
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Once you get fuel out of a injector line, I would tighten the nut --
even poor injection will help the starter out a lot.
Also, don't bother with the GP until you have fuel at the injectors,
nothing is gonna ignite anyway, and they draw 30A or so; Better to
use that to crank with!
This is
I pulled the battery tray out of the derusting bucket and wire-brushed
it off. I had to use the Dremel for the crevices. All the rust came
off great, the chunks were gone and there was a nice coat of black
oxide in many places. I washed it (using washing soda) in the sink
and then blew it dry.
This morning I turned the battery tray around in the derusting bucket.
I bought a stronger throttle spring today and installed it. It's able
to overcome the stiffness of the new throttle damper. If it should
turn out to be too weak I can put it down the middle of the original
spring and use them
Probably should
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 19:01:37 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
> Hmmm, might not be a bad idea t
> Hmmm, might not be a bad idea to replace those proactively huh?
Especially before investing $40 in refrigerant. Harbor
Freight had a kit of assorted sizes in blue that I bought
one of. About $10, which was cheaper than just buying
the right ones at NAPA, and will do several compressors.
> 2 c
h seems to be enough for one car) is about $40. If it
lasts a season I'd be pleased...
-Curt
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:16:08 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: t
> Last year my Indy said it was merely empty, not actually broken.
A major source of leaks can be the six O-rings on the compressor's
manifold fitting. (Four against the compressor body, two to the
hose assembly.) They are pretty easy to replace.
I found one badly-leaking system that was stupid
an R12 replacement (after I determine if its
been converted) and see what it does.
If it has been converted I'll continue with 134a, its not hot enough here to
worry about...
-Curt
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 18:30:38 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] 190D status
T
> Is this the Nippondenso compressor? If it is, make sure you check the
> clearance at the thrust washer is correct. Don't forget to actually
> use the
> thrust washer.
You referring to the little washer that sits behind the
front hub that appears to set the clutch spacing? I put
the same one ba
Jim,
Is this the Nippondenso compressor? If it is, make sure you check the
clearance at the thrust washer is correct. Don't forget to actually use the
thrust washer. We found out the hard way at Toyota about that seemingly
minor point.
If you don't ensure all is correct, it will burn put the clu
I reassembled the AC compressor. That was tedious. I used M1 as an
assembly lube, and just started the pistons into their bores one at a
time. All five have to be on the swash plate before you begin,
however. That's a bit fun, clutching a handful of pistons around a
swash plate while you guide
> Jim, get the refill canister and a jug of cleaner. Should reduce can
> waste and be much cheaper. I saw the fellow at the stealer shop
> using one and he was LIBERAL with the stuff to get a look at some
> cars engine underside
I do that with WD-40. May have a look for gallon jugs of BC.
No s
Jim, get the refill canister and a jug of cleaner. Should reduce can
waste and be much cheaper. I saw the fellow at the stealer shop
using one and he was LIBERAL with the stuff to get a look at some
cars engine underside
On Jun 16, 2007, at 9:39 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
> Friday, June 15, 2
> If they're NLA, it'll be two pieces of inner tube rubber glued
> together. That's about the right thickness and texture. They're
> just a bit of rubber with a tit sticking off the bottom to poke
> into one of those rectangular holes in the bracketry. You can
> just tack them down with weathers
> If you find the bumpers, let me know. When I called Buy MB Parts to
> order
> all the injector line clips, bumpers and brackets, Tom said the
> bumpers for
> my car (190DT) were NLA. If you come up with a suitable alternative,
> (inner
> tube?) let me/us know also.
If they're NLA, it'll be tw
"Rick Knoble" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> If you find the bumpers, let me know. When I called Buy MB Parts to
> order all the injector line clips, bumpers and brackets, Tom said
> the bumpers for my car (190DT) were NLA. If you come up with a
> suitable alternative, (inner tube?) let me/us know
All before breakfast, I am sure.
> I think it's just about time to make a parts order, I need an intake
> manifold gasket,
> the rubber blowby manifold parts, the injection line clips and bumpers,
> and two brake reservoir grommets.
If you find the bumpers, let me know. When I called Buy MB Par
I cleaned off the vacuum pump in the solvent tank, that took a lot of
scrubbing! (It's a lot cheaper than using brake cleaner, which is for
the things that can't make it to the tank.) I did use brake cleaner
to sluice off the solvent at the end, but that doesn't take much. I
squirted a bit of oi
I installed the IP mounting bolts, then rotated the engine slowly to
check the timing. It's correct, and measures about 4 degrees of chain
stretch. I managed to get that mystery plastic shield wedged into
there under the IP, I had to remove the AC bracket again first.
I then hooked up the fuel s
> Just an fyi, the "official" tool for turning the IP shaft is the
> timer, or
> more accurately, the splined two-eared flange that bolts in the center
> of
> the timer.
Oh, a part-timer? Perfect for me. :-)
> Damn, you do more in a day than I can in a week Does Murphy ever
> visit you?
> Damn, you do more in a day than I can in a week Does Murphy ever
> visit you??
Ditto that. More in a morning. How do ya do it, Jim? Where do ya get all
that motivation?
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see
Damn, you do more in a day than I can in a week Does Murphy ever visit
you??
Luther
On Sat, 23 Jun 2007 10:15:10 -0700, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yesterday I bought a new power steering return hose for
> $2 at the hose shop. US 3/8", not metric, not fabric-covered.
> We'll s
Just an fyi, the "official" tool for turning the IP shaft is the timer, or
more accurately, the splined two-eared flange that bolts in the center of
the timer.
On 6/23/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
> Oh, and I didn't have an official IP rotation tool, I just used padded
> vise grip
Yesterday I bought a new power steering return hose for
$2 at the hose shop. US 3/8", not metric, not fabric-covered.
We'll see.
Today I flushed out the power steering, its fluid was all brown and
nasty.
I put the old hose on the steering box and guided it to the oil drain
pan and then corked of
I changed out glow plugs #3 and #4, the two originals left, as those
are very hard to reach normally but they're completely exposed right
now. I'll save the old ones as emergency spares, since they're still
good.
I reinstalled the AC compressor bracket, there's a little plastic
shield (tool-catch
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