Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-31 Thread Randy Bennell

Then let me suggest the use of a brass hammer.

My father was cut quite badly many years ago when a bearing he was 
trying to remove shattered. A piece of it flew accross the top of his 
hand and cut an artery.


Randy

On 30/10/2012 5:13 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Yes indeed. I learned that by watching a mechanic do it years ago.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:09 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

...and of course the best tool to drive the new bearing race in is the old 
bearing race!!!

Dan






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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-31 Thread WILTON
'Reminds me:  Summer of '79, I was building a house near Goldsboro, NC; as I 
was pulling into driveway at the site one afternoon, a mason was kneeling 
down in the front yard chipping on a tile flue liner, and as I eased to a 
stop near him blood suddenly started spurting from an artery in his neck 
(flying piece of tile had cut him).  'Took 2 or 3 spurts for him to realize 
it was HIS blood spurting onto his work, and he dropped his tools to grab 
his neck to plug the dike.  I jumped out of my truck and ran to 'im to try 
to stop the flow by pressing my hankie to the hole, while yelling very 
loudly to his sons up on the roof.  Two sons rushed to us and hurried him 
off to emergency room, one driving, other holding my hankie against the 
wound.  Mason survived, and was back on job next day.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2012 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...



Then let me suggest the use of a brass hammer.

My father was cut quite badly many years ago when a bearing he was trying 
to remove shattered. A piece of it flew accross the top of his hand and 
cut an artery.


Randy

On 30/10/2012 5:13 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

Yes indeed. I learned that by watching a mechanic do it years ago.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:09 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

...and of course the best tool to drive the new bearing race in is 
the old bearing race!!!


Dan






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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-31 Thread Curt Raymond
Bearing or race?
With non-sealed bearings the bearing should just fall out, the race is a 
different story.
When I'm removing the race the hub is set on 2 (sometimes 4) 2x6 blocks and I'm 
hitting down through the hub, it would be awfully unlikely for pieces, should 
the race somehow shatter, to get to me.

Once on my '85 190D after bearing failure I couldn't get the inner race out. I 
ended up running beads of weld perpendicular to the diameter of the race. When 
I ran the fourth bead the race popped right out.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2012 10:44:34 -0500
From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...
Message-ID: 50914762.5070...@bennell.ca
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Then let me suggest the use of a brass hammer.

My father was cut quite badly many years ago when a bearing he was 
trying to remove shattered. A piece of it flew accross the top of his 
hand and cut an artery.

Randy

On 30/10/2012 5:13 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
 Yes indeed. I learned that by watching a mechanic do it years ago.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:09 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 ...and of course the best tool to drive the new bearing race in is the 
 old bearing race!!!

 Dan

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Craig
On Tue, 30 Oct 2012 09:24:46 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 60g of grease is much more than I thought it would be ...

So 60 g is the correct number? That's what I recalled, but I couldn't
verify it in my manuals.


 Took it for a ride and the noise is GONE.

ATTABOY!!!


 I tossed it over to Q, I've got a spare set of bearings now, I should
 have a spare seal to go with them.

All set for next time.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Did u get the $10 scale at horror fright? 
I always found that pounding out the races is the worst part of this job.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2012, at 12:24 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Started hearing that familiar rumble on my '78 240D the other day and knew the 
time had come for wheel bearings. Got 'em at my local Car Quest Friday with the 
intention of doing them Saturday (which is why I didn't get them from Q). 
Saturday came and I had no energy, instead I used my new scale to pre-weigh the 
grease into little plastic containers from the Chinese takeout. Worked sweet 
BTW.

Today I finally dug in, guessed the driver's side was the immediate culprit, 
and it appears I was right. Much more play in the outer bearing than in its 
replacement, a little more wear and the rollers would fall clean out. Guess I 
waited a little too long for this job. I *think* I did the other side a year or 
two ago.
Anyway the strange part of the whole thing was that the seals I'd gotten are 
WAY too small, probably 1/4 smaller than the inner bearing itself. Fortunately 
I'd gotten lucky and didn't damage the existing seal and got it back together 
with that. W123 bearings are easier to setup with my dial caliper than W201 
owing to a larger hub.
60g of grease is much more than I thought it would be, I'd actually weighed out 
60.5g as I figured I'd have some wastage which I did in figuring out which way 
the seal went on. Took it for a ride and the noise is GONE.

The guy at Car Quest tried 3 different methods for looking up the seal and came 
up with only that one part number. I tossed it over to Q, I've got a spare set 
of bearings now, I should have a spare seal to go with them.

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Michael Canfield
I found a 1x 8 hexagonal piece of brass bar stock that I use for bearing
races.  If I keep the end nice and square the points work very well for
getting into the relief in the hub and driving out the race.  I have
another similarly sized round piece for putting them back in.  Makes them a
breeze, front or rear.

Mike
On Oct 30, 2012 12:59 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Did u get the $10 scale at horror fright?
 I always found that pounding out the races is the worst part of this job.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 30, 2012, at 12:24 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Started hearing that familiar rumble on my '78 240D the other day and knew
 the time had come for wheel bearings. Got 'em at my local Car Quest Friday
 with the intention of doing them Saturday (which is why I didn't get them
 from Q). Saturday came and I had no energy, instead I used my new scale to
 pre-weigh the grease into little plastic containers from the Chinese
 takeout. Worked sweet BTW.

 Today I finally dug in, guessed the driver's side was the immediate
 culprit, and it appears I was right. Much more play in the outer bearing
 than in its replacement, a little more wear and the rollers would fall
 clean out. Guess I waited a little too long for this job. I *think* I did
 the other side a year or two ago.
 Anyway the strange part of the whole thing was that the seals I'd gotten
 are WAY too small, probably 1/4 smaller than the inner bearing itself.
 Fortunately I'd gotten lucky and didn't damage the existing seal and got it
 back together with that. W123 bearings are easier to setup with my dial
 caliper than W201 owing to a larger hub.
 60g of grease is much more than I thought it would be, I'd actually
 weighed out 60.5g as I figured I'd have some wastage which I did in
 figuring out which way the seal went on. Took it for a ride and the noise
 is GONE.

 The guy at Car Quest tried 3 different methods for looking up the seal and
 came up with only that one part number. I tossed it over to Q, I've got a
 spare set of bearings now, I should have a spare seal to go with them.

 -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Gerry Archer
Agreed, and if you can't find a piece of brass bar stock, a piece of brass 
pipe also works well.
Hexagon shapes would probably work better but I've never seen any around 
here.

Gerry

From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com

I found a 1x 8 hexagonal piece of brass bar stock that I use for bearing
races.  If I keep the end nice and square the points work very well for
getting into the relief in the hub and driving out the race.  I have
another similarly sized round piece for putting them back in.  Makes them 
a

breeze, front or rear.

Mike
On Oct 30, 2012 12:59 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com 
wrote:



Did u get the $10 scale at horror fright?
I always found that pounding out the races is the worst part of this job.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2012, at 12:24 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Started hearing that familiar rumble on my '78 240D the other day and 
knew
the time had come for wheel bearings. Got 'em at my local Car Quest 
Friday

with the intention of doing them Saturday (which is why I didn't get them
from Q). Saturday came and I had no energy, instead I used my new scale 
to

pre-weigh the grease into little plastic containers from the Chinese
takeout. Worked sweet BTW.

Today I finally dug in, guessed the driver's side was the immediate
culprit, and it appears I was right. Much more play in the outer bearing
than in its replacement, a little more wear and the rollers would fall
clean out. Guess I waited a little too long for this job. I *think* I did
the other side a year or two ago.
Anyway the strange part of the whole thing was that the seals I'd gotten
are WAY too small, probably 1/4 smaller than the inner bearing itself.
Fortunately I'd gotten lucky and didn't damage the existing seal and got 
it

back together with that. W123 bearings are easier to setup with my dial
caliper than W201 owing to a larger hub.
60g of grease is much more than I thought it would be, I'd actually
weighed out 60.5g as I figured I'd have some wastage which I did in
figuring out which way the seal went on. Took it for a ride and the noise
is GONE.

The guy at Car Quest tried 3 different methods for looking up the seal 
and

came up with only that one part number. I tossed it over to Q, I've got a
spare set of bearings now, I should have a spare seal to go with them.

-Curt

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-
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Curt Raymond
60g was what I remembered too, the MB tubes are 150g and I remembered having 
enough for 2 wheels plus a bit so it all worked out.

The stuff I removed was green like the MB stuff but some brown also, presumably 
thats what the MB stuff breaks down into. I used Mobil 1 which is pinkish red.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 10:50:49 -0600
From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...
Message-ID: 20121030105049.2f6850ccadf3820b17390...@pisquared.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Tue, 30 Oct 2012 09:24:46 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 60g of grease is much more than I thought it would be ...

So 60 g is the correct number? That's what I recalled, but I couldn't
verify it in my manuals.


 Took it for a ride and the noise is GONE.

ATTABOY!!!


 I tossed it over to Q, I've got a spare set of bearings now, I should
 have a spare seal to go with them.

All set for next time.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Curt Raymond
I have a huge iron punch of some sort I found in the remains of my great 
grandfather's blacksmith shop. Its long, its heavy and combined with a 3# 
hammer it took the races out no sweat.

-Curt

Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2012 13:30:31 -0400
From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...
Message-ID:
calhj_1bjw-yfdgk18p5kcfem42+aknbzmtf5oc2qydm17iq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I found a 1x 8 hexagonal piece of brass bar stock that I use for bearing
races.  If I keep the end nice and square the points work very well for
getting into the relief in the hub and driving out the race.  I have
another similarly sized round piece for putting them back in.  Makes them a
breeze, front or rear.

Mike
On Oct 30, 2012 12:59 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Did u get the $10 scale at horror fright?
 I always found that pounding out the races is the worst part of this job.

 Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Randy Bennell

On 30/10/2012 1:46 PM, Gerry Archer wrote:
Agreed, and if you can't find a piece of brass bar stock, a piece of 
brass pipe also works well.
Hexagon shapes would probably work better but I've never seen any 
around here.

Gerry

From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
I found a 1x 8 hexagonal piece of brass bar stock that I use for 
bearing

races.  If I keep the end nice and square the points work very well for
getting into the relief in the hub and driving out the race.  I have
another similarly sized round piece for putting them back in. Makes 
them a

breeze, front or rear.



Or, have a look at some place like HF or F and F or ??? for brass punches.
I know I am able to get them here at our local equivalent of those kind 
of store for a reasonable price.


And, I trust we all know why we want a brass punch.
If you don't know and are afraid to ask, it is because bearings tend to 
be real hard and shatter if one pounds on them with something hard. So, 
the soft brass will budge them without breaking them.



Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Dan Penoff
I have had two pieces of 5/8 brass rod stock for years.  One is just 
mushroomed on the end from being beaten, the other I grind to an edge for 
knocking out bearing races and such.

Best tools I have in my box - you can put them on just about anything and go to 
town without worrying about chipping or breaking things.

Dan


On Oct 30, 2012, at 3:23 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:

 On 30/10/2012 1:46 PM, Gerry Archer wrote:
 Agreed, and if you can't find a piece of brass bar stock, a piece of brass 
 pipe also works well.
 Hexagon shapes would probably work better but I've never seen any around 
 here.
 Gerry
 
 From: Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com
 I found a 1x 8 hexagonal piece of brass bar stock that I use for bearing
 races.  If I keep the end nice and square the points work very well for
 getting into the relief in the hub and driving out the race.  I have
 another similarly sized round piece for putting them back in. Makes them a
 breeze, front or rear.
 
 
 Or, have a look at some place like HF or F and F or ??? for brass punches.
 I know I am able to get them here at our local equivalent of those kind of 
 store for a reasonable price.
 
 And, I trust we all know why we want a brass punch.
 If you don't know and are afraid to ask, it is because bearings tend to be 
 real hard and shatter if one pounds on them with something hard. So, the soft 
 brass will budge them without breaking them.
 
 
 Randy
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Michael Canfield
If you are pounding on a bearing race anywhere near hard enough to break it
upon installation you aren't doing something right.  I don't worry too much
about what the old ones get beat out with.  Steel punch works fine and
saves on the good brass ones for the really tough ones.  I have never
beaten on a race hard enough to break it and I have done some that ended up
having to be cut out by slicing with a plasma torch.

Mike
On Oct 30, 2012 5:49 PM, Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net wrote:

 Last time I did this I took the new bearings and hubs to the local machine
 shop and the pressed out the old, pressed in the new for a grand total of
 $10-.  Now I have my own hydraulic press.  I'm not big on pounding bearings
 either!

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
 Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 9:59 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

 Did u get the $10 scale at horror fright?
 I always found that pounding out the races is the worst part of this job.




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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Dan Penoff
...and of course the best tool to drive the new bearing race in is the old 
bearing race!!!

Dan


On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:04 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

 If you are pounding on a bearing race anywhere near hard enough to break it
 upon installation you aren't doing something right.  I don't worry too much
 about what the old ones get beat out with.  Steel punch works fine and
 saves on the good brass ones for the really tough ones.  I have never
 beaten on a race hard enough to break it and I have done some that ended up
 having to be cut out by slicing with a plasma torch.
 
 Mike


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
Yes indeed. I learned that by watching a mechanic do it years ago.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:09 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

...and of course the best tool to drive the new bearing race in is the old 
bearing race!!!

Dan


On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:04 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

If you are pounding on a bearing race anywhere near hard enough to break it
upon installation you aren't doing something right.  I don't worry too much
about what the old ones get beat out with.  Steel punch works fine and
saves on the good brass ones for the really tough ones.  I have never
beaten on a race hard enough to break it and I have done some that ended up
having to be cut out by slicing with a plasma torch.

Mike


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Michael Canfield
Or a nice little brass hammer...

Mike
On Oct 30, 2012 6:09 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 ...and of course the best tool to drive the new bearing race in is the
 old bearing race!!!

 Dan


 On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:04 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

  If you are pounding on a bearing race anywhere near hard enough to break
 it
  upon installation you aren't doing something right.  I don't worry too
 much
  about what the old ones get beat out with.  Steel punch works fine and
  saves on the good brass ones for the really tough ones.  I have never
  beaten on a race hard enough to break it and I have done some that ended
 up
  having to be cut out by slicing with a plasma torch.
 
  Mike


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread Dimitri Seretakis
What's nice about using the old race is that you end up seating it uniformly in 
the hub.

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:22 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

Or a nice little brass hammer...

Mike
On Oct 30, 2012 6:09 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

...and of course the best tool to drive the new bearing race in is the
old bearing race!!!

Dan


On Oct 30, 2012, at 6:04 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:

If you are pounding on a bearing race anywhere near hard enough to break
it
upon installation you aren't doing something right.  I don't worry too
much
about what the old ones get beat out with.  Steel punch works fine and
saves on the good brass ones for the really tough ones.  I have never
beaten on a race hard enough to break it and I have done some that ended
up
having to be cut out by slicing with a plasma torch.

Mike


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...

2012-10-30 Thread OK Don
I have an old worn bearing/gear shaft from some English transmission that
has a nice notch on one end that I use to knock out races. I use a 16 oz.
hammer - never had one break. I do rotate around the race quite a bit so no
one side gets too much pressure.
I also have a bunch of larger sockets, and usually one will be about right
for driving in the new race.

On Tue, Oct 30, 2012 at 5:04 PM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.comwrote:

 If you are pounding on a bearing race anywhere near hard enough to break it
 upon installation you aren't doing something right.  I don't worry too much
 about what the old ones get beat out with.  Steel punch works fine and
 saves on the good brass ones for the really tough ones.  I have never
 beaten on a race hard enough to break it and I have done some that ended up
 having to be cut out by slicing with a plasma torch.

 Mike
 On Oct 30, 2012 5:49 PM, Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.net wrote:

  Last time I did this I took the new bearings and hubs to the local
 machine
  shop and the pressed out the old, pressed in the new for a grand total of
  $10-.  Now I have my own hydraulic press.  I'm not big on pounding
 bearings
  either!
 
  Greg
 
  -Original Message-
  From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:
 mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
  On Behalf Of Dimitri Seretakis
  Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 9:59 AM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings...
 
  Did u get the $10 scale at horror fright?
  I always found that pounding out the races is the worst part of this job.
 
 
 
 
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-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
2012 Passat TDI DSG
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-10 Thread John Reames
It's still a fine red hair either way...

--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Jan 9, 2011, at 10:22, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 10:16:24 -0500 Max Dillon
 meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 
 0.01 to 0.02 mm is the factory specification; which converts to 0.4
 inches to 0.8 inches.
 
 Now this has the decimal point error the other way. It should be 0.0004
 to 0.0008.
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-09 Thread Max Dillon
0.01 to 0.02 mm is the factory specification; which converts to 0.4
inches to 0.8 inches.  Procedure 33-0300 in the FSM.  The W201 service
manual is available online from MBUSA; I don't have the link on this
computer, but I found it while surfing around the startek website under
their list of literature.  When I get back to my work PC I'll try to
remember to post that link.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 11:29 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

Hey all,

I *think* the right wheel bearing my 190D is loose. I've bought a dial
indicator and magnetic base and want to use it to prove the proper
tightness. IIRC the correct number is something like .006 but how exactly
do I do it?
Stick the base on the rotor, point the indicator at the spindle and wiggle?

Thanks

Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-09 Thread Craig
On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 10:16:24 -0500 Max Dillon
meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 0.01 to 0.02 mm is the factory specification; which converts to 0.4
 inches to 0.8 inches.

Now this has the decimal point error the other way. It should be 0.0004
to 0.0008.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-09 Thread Max Dillon
Thanks Craig - I thought that looked wrong as well, should have double
checked my math.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Craig
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 10:23 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

On Sun, 9 Jan 2011 10:16:24 -0500 Max Dillon
meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 0.01 to 0.02 mm is the factory specification; which converts to 0.4
 inches to 0.8 inches.

Now this has the decimal point error the other way. It should be 0.0004
to 0.0008.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-09 Thread Max Dillon
Here's the promised link to the 201 FSM on-line:

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/11832/?requestedDocId=11832

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Max Dillon
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2011 10:16 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

0.01 to 0.02 mm is the factory specification; which converts to 0.4
inches to 0.8 inches.  Procedure 33-0300 in the FSM.  The W201 service
manual is available online from MBUSA; I don't have the link on this
computer, but I found it while surfing around the startek website under
their list of literature.  When I get back to my work PC I'll try to
remember to post that link.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 11:29 AM
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

Hey all,

I *think* the right wheel bearing my 190D is loose. I've bought a dial
indicator and magnetic base and want to use it to prove the proper
tightness. IIRC the correct number is something like .006 but how exactly
do I do it?
Stick the base on the rotor, point the indicator at the spindle and wiggle?

Thanks

Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-08 Thread Allan Streib
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:

 Curt Raymond wrote:

 Digging further he asked again a year later ;) and got:
 0.01 - 0.02 mm (0.004 - 0.008 inch)


 BZZT, WRONG. Mind your decimals. These bearings are supposed to be tight.

 0.01 / 25.4  0.0004.

 0.006 is easily discernible motion.
 0.0006 feels totally unyielding to the hand.
 The least I can feel is about 0.002-0.003

That's right, on a typical dial indicator graduated in thousandths, I
set the play to be about half of one segment on the dial, or maybe a
little less.  It's an estimate, but a dial indicator that read
ten-thousandths (or hundredths of mm) was not something I felt was worth
the cost.

I found that even tightening the allen-head screw to lock the nut in
place changed the play by a few thousandths.  So what I had to to was
get it just slightly too loose (something closer to .001), then when I locked 
the nut in place it
ended up being correct.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-08 Thread Allan Streib
Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu writes:

 I found that even tightening the allen-head screw to lock the nut in
 place changed the play by a few thousandths.

Err.. I mean a few ten-thousandths.

 So what I had to to was get it just slightly too loose (something
 closer to .001), then when I locked the nut in place it ended up
 being correct.

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-08 Thread Dieselhead
I have had success tightening the bearing until I can feel the 
resistance to spinning the tire increase.  Then I loosen it 1/3 turn 
for general use, or 1/4 turn if I want it tight.  I never had a .0001 
dial indicator, so I can't tell you if it on the spec for sure.  I 
can say that it is tight enough the steering does not wander, and 
loose enough so that the bearings don't overheat and burn out.  I 
have probably a cumulative million miles on MBs done this way.  I 
have never had a bearing failure.  If the thread pitch is 1mm, 1/4 
turnlosens the bearing and then you get maybe 1/8 mm of free play. 
.040/8 would be .005, which is too much (by a factor of 10) by the 
book.  Perhaps most of the 1/4 turn relieves the stress on the 
bearing and I end up with the correct .0006.  This only way to check 
for sure is to get a very accurate dial indicator and try to get a 
reading.  If you were doing serious track competition, it should be 
measured.  For my use, this works fine.


When you are out in the field  it is not possible to check this by 
the book so it is good to know there is a by feel method that 
works.




Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu writes:


 I found that even tightening the allen-head screw to lock the nut in
 place changed the play by a few thousandths.


Err.. I mean a few ten-thousandths.


 So what I had to to was get it just slightly too loose (something
 closer to .001), then when I locked the nut in place it ended up
 being correct.


--
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-07 Thread Curt Raymond
Excellent, looks like what I was planning, the pin of the indicator points to 
the nut (for lack of a better term)? 

Is that a Harbor Freight dial indicator and base? Looks like the one I bought.

Whats the spec, did I remember it right at 0.006?

-Curt

--- On Fri, 1/7/11, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
Date: Friday, January 7, 2011, 12:32 PM

On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 08:29:15 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Hey all,
 
 I *think* the right wheel bearing my 190D is loose. I've bought a dial
 indicator and magnetic base and want to use it to prove the proper
 tightness. IIRC the correct number is something like .006 but how
 exactly do I do it? Stick the base on the rotor, point the indicator at
 the spindle and wiggle?

As in the attached picture.


Craig



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-07 Thread Curt Raymond
Taking my own advice *blush* and checking the archives, I found a note from 
Allen asking this a couple years ago. He got 2 responses:
Half a thousandth.  0005
and
0.001

Digging further he asked again a year later ;) and got:
0.01 - 0.02 mm (0.004 - 0.008 inch)

I did mind a Marshall comment in there but it was just chiding somebody for not 
using a dial indicator, he didn't give an actual number.

Anyway, looks like my memory of 0.006 is good enough. I'm off to give it a shot!

-Curt

--- On Fri, 1/7/11, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

From: Craig diese...@pisquared.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
Date: Friday, January 7, 2011, 12:32 PM

On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 08:29:15 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Hey all,
 
 I *think* the right wheel bearing my 190D is loose. I've bought a dial
 indicator and magnetic base and want to use it to prove the proper
 tightness. IIRC the correct number is something like .006 but how
 exactly do I do it? Stick the base on the rotor, point the indicator at
 the spindle and wiggle?

As in the attached picture.


Craig



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-07 Thread Mitch Haley

Curt Raymond wrote:


Digging further he asked again a year later ;) and got:
0.01 - 0.02 mm (0.004 - 0.008 inch)



BZZT, WRONG. Mind your decimals. These bearings are supposed to be tight.

0.01 / 25.4  0.0004.

0.006 is easily discernible motion.
0.0006 feels totally unyielding to the hand.
The least I can feel is about 0.002-0.003

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-07 Thread Craig
On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 08:29:15 -0800 (PST) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Hey all,
 
 I *think* the right wheel bearing my 190D is loose. I've bought a dial
 indicator and magnetic base and want to use it to prove the proper
 tightness. IIRC the correct number is something like .006 but how
 exactly do I do it? Stick the base on the rotor, point the indicator at
 the spindle and wiggle?

As in the attached picture.


Craig
-- next part --
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-07 Thread Curt Raymond
Whoops, missed copy..

-Curt

Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2011 15:05:46 -0500
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
Message-ID: 4d27721a.80...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Curt Raymond wrote:

 Digging further he asked again a year later ;) and got:
 0.01 - 0.02 mm (0.004 - 0.008 inch)


BZZT, WRONG. Mind your decimals. These bearings are supposed to be tight.

0.01 / 25.4  0.0004.

0.006 is easily discernible motion.
0.0006 feels totally unyielding to the hand.
The least I can feel is about 0.002-0.003


  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2011-01-07 Thread Scott Ritchey
Inches or mm?

Scott Ritchey
1982 300SD 230k mi
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Curt Raymond
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2011 11:29
To: Diesel List
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

Hey all,

I *think* the right wheel bearing my 190D is loose. I've bought a dial
indicator and magnetic base and want to use it to prove the proper
tightness. IIRC the correct number is something like .006 but how exactly
do I do it?
Stick the base on the rotor, point the indicator at the spindle and wiggle?

Thanks

Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-16 Thread Peter T. Arnold
Unnecessary tool, somthig else for the garage elves to hide. I just use 
the palm of my hand, assuming I can find it.


--
Pete Arnold

This e-mail from Peter Arnold and any attachments to it are confidential 
to the intended recipient and may also be uncensored. If you have 
received it in error please consult your religious adviser.   If you are 
not the intended recipient, why have you read this far?  Please do not 
staple, spindle or otherwise mutilate this document, doing so may damage 
your screen.  All communications may be subject to interception or 
monitoring by the men in black helicopters for security purposes. Please 
rely on your own swine flu virus checking as the sender cannot accept 
any liability for any damage arising from any bug or virus infection.


Allan Streib wrote:

Anyone use those bearing packers that are sold at Sears and FLAPS?  Sort
of a cone-shaped contraption that has two halves, I never was quite sure
how they worked.  I assume ou put the bearing on the cone, fill the
other half with grease, and squeeze them together... or does it work
with a grease gun, somehow?

Allan

  


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-16 Thread LWB250

They work with a grease gun, typically.  The problem this introduces is having 
enough grease to load the gun, if you're thinking MB front wheel bearings.  Not 
to mention the MB grease comes in a tube, and not the type that loads in a 
grease gun.

They are very, very handy when you need them, but not practical if you're doing 
MB wheel bearings as they should be done.

Dan

--- On Fri, 5/15/09, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 From: Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Friday, May 15, 2009, 10:25 PM
 Anyone use those bearing packers that
 are sold at Sears and FLAPS?  Sort
 of a cone-shaped contraption that has two halves, I never
 was quite sure
 how they worked.  I assume ou put the bearing on the
 cone, fill the
 other half with grease, and squeeze them together... or
 does it work
 with a grease gun, somehow?
 
 Allan
 
 -- 
 1983 300D
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread LarryT

Hi Ed,
   At the dealerships where I worked, we always used kerosene and a soft 
brush.  IMO spinning the bearings dry causes a problem due to the heat 
created.   Wiping them with a soft cloth works better anyway.


   At home I use diesel fuel in a pan - it breaks the grease down pretty 
quickly.


   When repacking the bearings make sure to work the grease into the 
bearing cages as thoroughly as possible.


   The good thing about buying the tube of grase from MB is it's exactly 
enough to do 2 wheels - fold the tube in half to divide the portions if a 
scale isn't available.  The WSM tells how much to put in the inner and outer 
brg as well as the qty that goes into the bearings cap  I can try to 
look it up if you don't have the info handy -


Take care -

LarryT

https://www.nrahq.org/nrabonus/accept-membership.asp

Free 1 year NRA membership to anyone interested!

- Original Message - 
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


What's the best way to clean out all the old grease and goop?  I've read 
to

be careful not to used compressed air to try the bearings, as it will spin
them dry, without grease, and can damage them.   Not sure if that's going 
a
little overboard, as there's really no load on them, but then again, I'm 
no

expert when it comes to bearing. ;-)

Ed
300E

2009/5/14 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com


Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good
condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you 
start

re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY.  The grease must then be
pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it
squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing.  Put a dollop of grease 
on
the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of 
other
hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) 
onto

the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand,
pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing.  Turn the bearing in
your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning 
and

pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side
opposite the heal of your hand).  Once grease is oozing from ALL the 
little

cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop
playing with it.  Others may have a procedure that works equally well, 
but

this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me.  'Haven't
needed it in a LONG time, though.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


 Which of course made me check...
Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings 
so
I didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't 
replace

the bearings I just re-greased them.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from 
eBay)

didn't but the set I got from McParts did.



If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. 
They

are matched. They must be used together.


Craig



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread pm7088
Many years ago, I was trained NOT to Clean out the old grease from bearings 
when servicing them. 

• If the grease is dirty, the bearings are junk, replace them. 
• Wipe them off with a lint free cloth so you can give them a visual 
inspection. 
• If the grease is simply old, it is serviceable. Simply repack with fresh 
grease. 
• Cleaning tapered or roller bearings inevitably leaves them dirty unless 
you have very sophisticated equipment. 

This has served me well for 30 years, I've never lost a bearing that I have 
been charged to maintain. 

YMMV 


-- 

Peter Arnold 

Windsor, CT 

- Original Message - 
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com 
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 12:01:02 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings 

What's the best way to clean out all the old grease and goop? I've read to 
be careful not to used compressed air to try the bearings, as it will spin 
them dry, without grease, and can damage them. Not sure if that's going a 
little overboard, as there's really no load on them, but then again, I'm no 
expert when it comes to bearing. ;-) 

Ed 
300E 

2009/5/14 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com 

 Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good 
 condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you start 
 re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY. The grease must then be 
 pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it 
 squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing. Put a dollop of grease on 
 the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of other 
 hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) onto 
 the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand, 
 pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing. Turn the bearing in 
 your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning and 
 pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side 
 opposite the heal of your hand). Once grease is oozing from ALL the little 
 cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop 
 playing with it. Others may have a procedure that works equally well, but 
 this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me. 'Haven't 
 needed it in a LONG time, though. 
 
 Wilton 
 
 - Original Message - From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com 
 To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:13 PM 
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings 
 
 
 Which of course made me check... 
 Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings so 
 I didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't replace 
 the bearings I just re-greased them. 
 
 -Curt 
 
 Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600 
 From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com 
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII 
 
 On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond 
 curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote: 
 
 Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay) 
 didn't but the set I got from McParts did. 
 
 
 If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the 
 inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. They 
 are matched. They must be used together. 
 
 
 Craig 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Curt Raymond
Which is what I did and seems to have been fine for about 4,000 miles now.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 22:52:29 -0400
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: d03aba6d70d24c818dde033837f18...@wiltonpc
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    reply-type=original

Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good 
condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you start 
re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY.  The grease must then be 
pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it 
squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing.  Put a dollop of grease on 
the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of other 
hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) onto 
the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand, 
pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing.  Turn the bearing in 
your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning and 
pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side 
opposite the heal of your hand).  Once grease is oozing from ALL the little 
cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop 
playing with it.  Others may have a procedure that works equally well, but 
this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me.  'Haven't 
needed it in a LONG time, though.

Wilton



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Jim Cathey
What's the best way to clean out all the old grease and goop?  I've 
read to
be careful not to used compressed air to try the bearings, as it will 
spin

them dry, without grease, and can damage them.


So I hear.  I use compressed air, gently, but I hold the thing
so nothing can spin.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Fri, 15 May 2009 06:19:01 -0700 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:

  What's the best way to clean out all the old grease and goop?  I've 
  read to
  be careful not to used compressed air to try the bearings, as it will 
  spin
  them dry, without grease, and can damage them.
 
 So I hear.  I use compressed air, gently, but I hold the thing
 so nothing can spin.

Yes, it's the spinning of a dry bearing that's the problem.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Curt Raymond
When I bought last fall it came in a tube not unlike the one my wife's shampoo 
comes in, kind of like a big toothpaste tube and had something like 2.5 wheels 
worth of grease.

I'm thinking for this time I'm going to try to scare up a scale and do it 
right...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:30:52 -0400
From: LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 5512c28dfb174eedaee520cde0196...@larrypc
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
    reply-type=original

Hi Ed,
    At the dealerships where I worked, we always used kerosene and a soft 
brush.  IMO spinning the bearings dry causes a problem due to the heat 
created.   Wiping them with a soft cloth works better anyway.

    At home I use diesel fuel in a pan - it breaks the grease down pretty 
quickly.

    When repacking the bearings make sure to work the grease into the 
bearing cages as thoroughly as possible.

    The good thing about buying the tube of grase from MB is it's exactly 
enough to do 2 wheels - fold the tube in half to divide the portions if a 
scale isn't available.  The WSM tells how much to put in the inner and outer 
brg as well as the qty that goes into the bearings cap  I can try to 
look it up if you don't have the info handy -

Take care -

LarryT


  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Curt Raymond
The problem is MB specifies a charge of grease by weight. If you don't get all 
the old grease out how do you know how much you've gotten in?

The other issue is in making sure you're using a compatible grease. If you 
always do your own bearings then its pretty easy... I think on my 240D somebody 
had done them from a grease gun, the stuff in there was sludgy brown. I used MB 
grease which is really nice stuff to work with. I don't have enough left to do 
both wheels so I think I'm going to give Mobil 1 a try, I'll get a scale so I 
can be pretty well assured I've got the right amount but having done it I'm 
also pretty sure you could go over without causing too many hassles...

-Curt

Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 12:44:05 + (UTC)
From: pm7...@comcast.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
    
1270347674.9931061242391445825.javamail.r...@sz0127a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

Many years ago, I was trained NOT to Clean out the old grease from bearings 
when servicing them. 

    ? If the grease is dirty, the bearings are junk, replace them. 
    ? Wipe them off with a lint free cloth so you can give them a visual 
inspection. 
    ? If the grease is simply old, it is serviceable. Simply repack with fresh 
grease. 
    ? Cleaning tapered or roller bearings inevitably leaves them dirty unless 
you have very sophisticated equipment. 

This has served me well for 30 years, I've never lost a bearing that I have 
been charged to maintain. 

YMMV 


-- 

Peter Arnold 

Windsor, CT 



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread WILTON
'Don't have  to make 'em spin or spin so much as to over heat them, etc. 
Use short careful bursts, etc.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


What's the best way to clean out all the old grease and goop?  I've read 
to

be careful not to used compressed air to try the bearings, as it will spin
them dry, without grease, and can damage them.   Not sure if that's going 
a
little overboard, as there's really no load on them, but then again, I'm 
no

expert when it comes to bearing. ;-)

Ed
300E

2009/5/14 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com


Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good
condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you 
start

re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY.  The grease must then be
pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it
squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing.  Put a dollop of grease 
on
the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of 
other
hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) 
onto

the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand,
pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing.  Turn the bearing in
your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning 
and

pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side
opposite the heal of your hand).  Once grease is oozing from ALL the 
little

cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop
playing with it.  Others may have a procedure that works equally well, 
but

this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me.  'Haven't
needed it in a LONG time, though.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


 Which of course made me check...
Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings 
so
I didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't 
replace

the bearings I just re-greased them.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from 
eBay)

didn't but the set I got from McParts did.



If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. 
They

are matched. They must be used together.


Craig



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread WILTON

Yes, as the new grease goes in, it pushes the old grease out.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: pm7...@comcast.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 8:44 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


Many years ago, I was trained NOT to Clean out the old grease from 
bearings when servicing them.


   • If the grease is dirty, the bearings are junk, replace them.
   • Wipe them off with a lint free cloth so you can give them a visual 
inspection.
   • If the grease is simply old, it is serviceable. Simply repack with 
fresh grease.
   • Cleaning tapered or roller bearings inevitably leaves them dirty 
unless you have very sophisticated equipment.


This has served me well for 30 years, I've never lost a bearing that I 
have been charged to maintain.


YMMV


--

Peter Arnold

Windsor, CT

- Original Message - 
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 12:01:02 AM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

What's the best way to clean out all the old grease and goop? I've read to
be careful not to used compressed air to try the bearings, as it will spin
them dry, without grease, and can damage them. Not sure if that's going a
little overboard, as there's really no load on them, but then again, I'm 
no

expert when it comes to bearing. ;-)

Ed
300E

2009/5/14 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com


Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good
condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you 
start

re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY. The grease must then be
pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it
squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing. Put a dollop of grease 
on
the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of 
other
hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) 
onto

the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand,
pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing. Turn the bearing in
your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning 
and

pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side
opposite the heal of your hand). Once grease is oozing from ALL the 
little

cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop
playing with it. Others may have a procedure that works equally well, but
this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me. 'Haven't
needed it in a LONG time, though.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


Which of course made me check...
Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings 
so
I didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't 
replace

the bearings I just re-greased them.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay)

didn't but the set I got from McParts did.



If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. 
They

are matched. They must be used together.


Craig



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Greg Fiorentino
This is a use for which biodiesel is the right stuff rather than kerosene
or diesel fuel.  As others have said, compressed air is fine for drying, as
long as you don't spin the bearings.

Greg Fiorentino
'85 300SD
'80 240D 4 spd. manual
'79 300DT (with new crate engine)
'95 and '97 Crown Vics

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of LarryT
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 5:31 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

Hi Ed,
At the dealerships where I worked, we always used kerosene and a soft 
brush.  IMO spinning the bearings dry causes a problem due to the heat 
created.   Wiping them with a soft cloth works better anyway.

At home I use diesel fuel in a pan - it breaks the grease down pretty 
quickly.

When repacking the bearings make sure to work the grease into the 
bearing cages as thoroughly as possible.

The good thing about buying the tube of grase from MB is it's exactly 
enough to do 2 wheels - fold the tube in half to divide the portions if a 
scale isn't available.  The WSM tells how much to put in the inner and outer

brg as well as the qty that goes into the bearings cap  I can try to 
look it up if you don't have the info handy -

Take care -

LarryT

https://www.nrahq.org/nrabonus/accept-membership.asp

Free 1 year NRA membership to anyone interested!

- Original Message - 
From: E M pokieba...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, May 15, 2009 12:01 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


 What's the best way to clean out all the old grease and goop?  I've read 
 to
 be careful not to used compressed air to try the bearings, as it will spin
 them dry, without grease, and can damage them.   Not sure if that's going 
 a
 little overboard, as there's really no load on them, but then again, I'm 
 no
 expert when it comes to bearing. ;-)

 Ed
 300E

 2009/5/14 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com

 Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good
 condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you 
 start
 re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY.  The grease must then be
 pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it
 squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing.  Put a dollop of grease

 on
 the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of 
 other
 hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) 
 onto
 the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand,
 pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing.  Turn the bearing in
 your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning 
 and
 pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side
 opposite the heal of your hand).  Once grease is oozing from ALL the 
 little
 cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop
 playing with it.  Others may have a procedure that works equally well, 
 but
 this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me.  'Haven't
 needed it in a LONG time, though.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
 To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:13 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


  Which of course made me check...
 Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings 
 so
 I didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't 
 replace
 the bearings I just re-greased them.

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600
 From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
 curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

  Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from 
 eBay)
 didn't but the set I got from McParts did.


 If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
 inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. 
 They
 are matched. They must be used together.


 Craig



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Greg Fiorentino
According to the MB engineers, the reason for the weighed charge of the
special grease is that it is engineered to flow and circulate in the
bearings.  Too much or too little grease impedes the optimum flow.
Accordingly, as long as the bearings are completely coated with the grease,
I think that they don't require such care in packing.  Just coat all
surfaces, weigh the grease, then let the grease do its own thing.

That's the way I did it and it worked fine.

Greg Fiorentino
'85 300SD
'80 240D 4 spd. manual
'79 300DT (with new crate engine)
'95 and '97 Crown Vics

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 7:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good 
condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you start

re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY.  The grease must then be 
pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it 
squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing.  Put a dollop of grease on

the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of other 
hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) onto

the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand, 
pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing.  Turn the bearing in 
your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning and

pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side 
opposite the heal of your hand).  Once grease is oozing from ALL the little 
cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop 
playing with it.  Others may have a procedure that works equally well, but 
this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me.  'Haven't 
needed it in a LONG time, though.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings


 Which of course made me check...
 Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings so 
 I didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't replace

 the bearings I just re-greased them.

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600
 From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
 curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay)
 didn't but the set I got from McParts did.

 If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
 inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. They
 are matched. They must be used together.


 Craig



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Mitch Haley

Allan Streib wrote:

Anyone use those bearing packers that are sold at Sears and FLAPS?  Sort
of a cone-shaped contraption that has two halves, I never was quite sure
how they worked.  I assume ou put the bearing on the cone, fill the
other half with grease, and squeeze them together... or does it work
with a grease gun, somehow?



Grease gun.
Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Allan Streib
Anyone use those bearing packers that are sold at Sears and FLAPS?  Sort
of a cone-shaped contraption that has two halves, I never was quite sure
how they worked.  I assume ou put the bearing on the cone, fill the
other half with grease, and squeeze them together... or does it work
with a grease gun, somehow?

Allan

-- 
1983 300D

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-15 Thread Fmiser
 Allan Streib wrote:

 Anyone use those bearing packers that are sold at Sears and
 FLAPS?  Sort of a cone-shaped contraption that has two halves,
 I never was quite sure how they worked.  I assume ou put the
 bearing on the cone, fill the other half with grease, and
 squeeze them together... or does it work with a grease gun,
 somehow?

If what I have is what you are thinking of, it uses a grease
gun. The lower cone seals against the inside race and the upper
cone seals against the carrier. Grease is then pumped through.

It works. It's not as efficient with the grease as the hands-on
method - and it doesn't lend its self to the toothpaste tube of
MB grease.

So when I was doing 8 bearing in one day, it was great. But for
one now and then it's probably not worth the trouble.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Curt Raymond
How do I replace the races? Or more specifically how do I get the *$...@! old 
ones out? Big press? I beat on them a little last time (the outer one I think) 
but didn't want to damage it...

How do I test bearings? Jack up the car and wiggle the wheel? Maybe they're 
just set loose...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 00:06:52 +
From: brian.tosc...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
    
1580429519-1242259570-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-5839560...@bxe1172.bisx.prod.on.blackberry
    
Content-Type: text/plain

Races are replacable.  If the spindles are worn you will have problems with new 
bearings.  
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:03:45 
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...


So
the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My wife says
he said the passenger side was the worse of them but both were bad. I
wonder if they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and see.
I'd
done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too tight but
the car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings. Maybe 6500 on
the driver's side which my Indy had done. As I say both had failed
badly before being replaced.

I asked last time I went through
this but nobody replied; are the bearing races in the hub replaceable
or would I need a new hub?

-Curt




  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Hmm, I may try that. The bearings I bought for the 190D at Car Quest came with 
races. I played with them a little and couldn't get 'em out.. I polished them 
so they were really smooth just in case. Guess that wasn't enough.

-Curt

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:52:43 -0700
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: ea3d4faa-4029-11de-adec-000502d9a...@windwireless.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

 are the bearing races in the hub replaceable or would I need a new hub?

If you can get them out, they're replaceable.  An old farmer's
trick is to arc-weld a bead across the face of the race.  When
it cools it contracts, reducing the diameter of the race slightly.
Repeat as necessary.  Only if you can't pound them out, of course.

-- Jim


  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Frederick W Moir

Curt.
What Jim said.
I'd only add that a brass punch is best to use when installing the 
new races that last little bit.

If you get desperate (real desperate!) call me.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA

At 08:53 AM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
Hmm, I may try that. The bearings I bought for the 190D at Car Quest 
came with races. I played with them a little and couldn't get 'em 
out.. I polished them so they were really smooth just in case. Guess 
that wasn't enough.


-Curt

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:52:43 -0700
From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net

 are the bearing races in the hub replaceable or would I need a new hub?

If you can get them out, they're replaceable.  An old farmer's
trick is to arc-weld a bead across the face of the race.  When
it cools it contracts, reducing the diameter of the race slightly.
Repeat as necessary.  Only if you can't pound them out, of course.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Jim Cathey
I'd only add that a brass punch is best to use when installing the new 
races that last little bit.


I use an old race as a driver.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Jim Cathey
How do I test bearings? Jack up the car and wiggle the wheel? Maybe 
they're just set loose...


That's how your highly-trained inspection station does it!

They also shouldn't make that dry bearing sound when
you spin the wheel.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Frederick W Moir

D'accord!

At 09:05 AM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
I'd only add that a brass punch is best to use when installing the 
new races that last little bit.


I use an old race as a driver.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread WILTON
Yes, indeed, if a bearing is bad enough to replace, so are the races.  I 
used to (45 - 50 years ago) drive my Chevy races out using a piece of wood 
as a punch - very carefully - always worked great for me.  I've never 
removed a Mercedes race, though - lucky enough to not have to yet.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...


You should always replace the races as a matter of course -- if the 
bearing rollers are bad, so are the races, and they will eat a new  set of 
rollers in a few thousand miles.  BTDT.


You can drive them in and out with a soft punch, or splurge on the MB 
driving tool.  Have a care to get them in right way round, and make  SURE 
the seat is clean and that the new race is seated properly.


Timkens fit tighter and are harder to install than SKF, but either  will 
work.  Available at McParts.  Wheel seal, however, is not.


Do replace the seal each time you take the bearings out, even if just  for 
inspection.  This is the usual failure point -- seal wears, water  and 
salt get in, bearings go to the bad place.


Peter

On May 13, 2009, at 7:03 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

So the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My wife  says 
he said the passenger side was the worse of them but both were  bad. I 
wonder if they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and  see.
I'd done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too  tight but 
the car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings.  Maybe 6500 on 
the driver's side which my Indy had done. As I say  both had failed badly 
before being replaced.


I asked last time I went through this but nobody replied; are the 
bearing races in the hub replaceable or would I need a new hub?


-Curt




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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Richard Hattaway

What Jim said.. use the old race to put in the new one.

On removal of the old race, mess around in the grease and locate the two or 
three ( or was it four ) notches in the hub casting behind the race that give 
you a clear shot at driving it out with a punch.  I remember the notches being 
there on my 123's but it's been a long time since I got one out.  It can be 
done.

Gentle as opposed to force when it comes to tapping them out.  The goal is to 
not cross them up in the bore.  And put the hub center on something solid.  If 
you use the tire to support the wheel while you're driving, all your jolt is 
absorbed in the tire, and the race does not move.  A block of hard wood works 
well for this, I use a chunk of 6x6 for my race driving efforts.

I've never tried the welding trick, it seems like it might have merit.  But 
with my welding skills I would eventually poke a hole in the aluminum hub.

--- On Thu, 5/14/09, Frederick W Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

 From: Frederick W Moir fred.s...@verizon.net
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Thursday, May 14, 2009, 12:59 PM
 Curt.
 What Jim said.
 I'd only add that a brass punch is best to use when
 installing the 
 new races that last little bit.
 If you get desperate (real desperate!) call me.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 
 At 08:53 AM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
 Hmm, I may try that. The bearings I bought for the 190D
 at Car Quest 
 came with races. I played with them a little and
 couldn't get 'em 
 out.. I polished them so they were really smooth just
 in case. Guess 
 that wasn't enough.
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:52:43 -0700
 From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
 
   are the bearing races in the hub replaceable or
 would I need a new hub?
 
 If you can get them out, they're replaceable.  An
 old farmer's
 trick is to arc-weld a bead across the face of the
 race.  When
 it cools it contracts, reducing the diameter of the
 race slightly.
 Repeat as necessary.  Only if you can't pound them
 out, of course.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread WILTON
I used to confirm/test wheel bearings by jacking the wheel up and rotating 
it by hand; I could hear and feel the roughness of a bad bearing.  With it 
jacked up, give it a good, hard spin like a roulette wheel; let it spin 
freely and listen closely (in quiet surroundings, away from the freeway or a 
jet engine test stand).  If you can move/rock the wheel back and forth a bit 
(any) on the spindle, the bearing is too loose and is gonna be damaged soon 
if not already.  Replacing a bearing to me also  means replacing bearing 
AND races.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...


How do I replace the races? Or more specifically how do I get the *$...@! old 
ones out? Big press? I beat on them a little last time (the outer one I 
think) but didn't want to damage it...


How do I test bearings? Jack up the car and wiggle the wheel? Maybe they're 
just set loose...


-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 00:06:52 +
From: brian.tosc...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
1580429519-1242259570-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-5839560...@bxe1172.bisx.prod.on.blackberry

Content-Type: text/plain

Races are replacable. If the spindles are worn you will have problems with 
new bearings.

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:03:45
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...


So
the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My wife says
he said the passenger side was the worse of them but both were bad. I
wonder if they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and see.
I'd
done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too tight but
the car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings. Maybe 6500 on
the driver's side which my Indy had done. As I say both had failed
badly before being replaced.

I asked last time I went through
this but nobody replied; are the bearing races in the hub replaceable
or would I need a new hub?

-Curt





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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-14 Thread MG
That's the problem with sending a wife to do your job for you. ;-) If 
you had been there you could have asked why they failed. Could be 
they just need to be adjusted.


If you didn't change the races in the hub then it could be that the 
new bearings are toast. Bad races can grind up a new bearing in a 
short time. That's why you always change both the inner and outer 
races when changing a bearing.


Manfred



Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 14:15:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 29284.82677...@web32802.mail.mud.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Just talked to the wife, she had my 190D in for an inspection today 
and it was rejected for wheel bearings. She says both but I don't 
know if that means all 4 or what.
My Indy had done one of the fronts (driver's side) last fall, I did 
the other one. I can't believe both of us screwed them but where both 
are apparently bad again I'd guess that maybe the spindles or hubs 
are bad since both had failed fairly dramatically.


I'd also been wondering if the rears were bad, thinking maybe the 
rear end noise was wheel bearings and not all the diff...


Sounds like money to me, ideas?

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Hi Peter,

That sounds like its probably my problem then. Where do I get the MB tool, does 
it really make the job substantially easier? How much am I splurging?

The MacParts in my town (Car Quest) can get the seal, its $30(!) and takes 
around 3 hours to get it from the warehouse.

Thanks!

-Curt

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:44:56 -0500
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 63d7327a-20f0-4891-bdde-4f46cc013...@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

You should always replace the races as a matter of course -- if the  
bearing rollers are bad, so are the races, and they will eat a new  
set of rollers in a few thousand miles.  BTDT.

You can drive them in and out with a soft punch, or splurge on the MB  
driving tool.  Have a care to get them in right way round, and make  
SURE the seat is clean and that the new race is seated properly.

Timkens fit tighter and are harder to install than SKF, but either  
will work.  Available at McParts.  Wheel seal, however, is not.

Do replace the seal each time you take the bearings out, even if just  
for inspection.  This is the usual failure point -- seal wears, water  
and salt get in, bearings go to the bad place.

Peter


  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Greg Fiorentino
Add my voice to that:  New races are PART OF the bearing.  Gotta replace the
whole thing.  The last time I did this on a W123 I took the hubs into a
local automotive machine shop to do that part.  They charged me $5 to press
out-press in the bearings.  For someone with the proper press it is a 2
minute job.

Greg Fiorentino
'85 300SD
'80 240D 4 spd. manual
'79 300DT (with new crate engine)
'95 and '97 Crown Vics

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

You should always replace the races as a matter of course -- if the  
bearing rollers are bad, so are the races, and they will eat a new  
set of rollers in a few thousand miles.  BTDT.

You can drive them in and out with a soft punch, or splurge on the MB  
driving tool.  Have a care to get them in right way round, and make  
SURE the seat is clean and that the new race is seated properly.

Timkens fit tighter and are harder to install than SKF, but either  
will work.  Available at McParts.  Wheel seal, however, is not.

Do replace the seal each time you take the bearings out, even if just  
for inspection.  This is the usual failure point -- seal wears, water  
and salt get in, bearings go to the bad place.

Peter

On May 13, 2009, at 7:03 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

 So the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My wife  
 says he said the passenger side was the worse of them but both were  
 bad. I wonder if they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and  
 see.
 I'd done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too  
 tight but the car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings.  
 Maybe 6500 on the driver's side which my Indy had done. As I say  
 both had failed badly before being replaced.

 I asked last time I went through this but nobody replied; are the  
 bearing races in the hub replaceable or would I need a new hub?

 -Curt




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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Yeah I know but I wanted to get it inspected sooner rather than later. I'm 
starting to wonder if some of the noise I've been noticing is the bearings. The 
problem is I was so hung up on the rear diff (which also makes noise) I 
probably missed the possibility.

So Memorial day I'll be pulling the bearings and giving a look. I've already 
got one set, will order for the other side today or tomorrow.

Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay) didn't 
but the set I got from McParts did.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 10:13:57 -0400
From: MG trainpain2...@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 4a0c2725.3040...@yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

That's the problem with sending a wife to do your job for you. ;-) If 
you had been there you could have asked why they failed. Could be 
they just need to be adjusted.

If you didn't change the races in the hub then it could be that the 
new bearings are toast. Bad races can grind up a new bearing in a 
short time. That's why you always change both the inner and outer 
races when changing a bearing.

Manfred


  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread LWB250

The old races make great drivers for the new ones

A brass drift is the ideal tool for this,  I don't know what I would do without 
mine...

Dan

--- On Thu, 5/14/09, Frederick W Moir fred.s...@verizon.net wrote:

 From: Frederick W Moir fred.s...@verizon.net
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Thursday, May 14, 2009, 8:59 AM
 Curt.
 What Jim said.
 I'd only add that a brass punch is best to use when
 installing the 
 new races that last little bit.
 If you get desperate (real desperate!) call me.
 Fred Moir
 Lynn MA
 
 At 08:53 AM 5/14/2009, you wrote:
 Hmm, I may try that. The bearings I bought for the 190D
 at Car Quest 
 came with races. I played with them a little and
 couldn't get 'em 
 out.. I polished them so they were really smooth just
 in case. Guess 
 that wasn't enough.
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 18:52:43 -0700
 From: Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
 
   are the bearing races in the hub replaceable or
 would I need a new hub?
 
 If you can get them out, they're replaceable.  An
 old farmer's
 trick is to arc-weld a bead across the face of the
 race.  When
 it cools it contracts, reducing the diameter of the
 race slightly.
 Repeat as necessary.  Only if you can't pound them
 out, of course.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread LWB250

The ONLY way to properly set MB wheel bearings with with the use of a dial 
indicator.  Period.  Using a by feel method will result in the bearings being 
too loose, and cause premature failure.

Dan

--- On Thu, 5/14/09, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Thursday, May 14, 2009, 10:09 AM
 I used to confirm/test wheel bearings
 by jacking the wheel up and rotating it by hand; I could
 hear and feel the roughness of a bad bearing.  With it
 jacked up, give it a good, hard spin like a roulette wheel;
 let it spin freely and listen closely (in quiet
 surroundings, away from the freeway or a jet engine test
 stand).  If you can move/rock the wheel back and forth
 a bit (any) on the spindle, the bearing is too loose and is
 gonna be damaged soon if not already.  Replacing a
 bearing to me also  means replacing bearing AND
 races.
 
 Wilton
 
 - Original Message - From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
 To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:49 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
 
 
 How do I replace the races? Or more specifically how do I
 get the *$...@! old ones out? Big press? I beat on them a
 little last time (the outer one I think) but didn't want to
 damage it...
 
 How do I test bearings? Jack up the car and wiggle the
 wheel? Maybe they're just set loose...
 
 -Curt
 
 Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 00:06:52 +
 From: brian.tosc...@gmail.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID:
 1580429519-1242259570-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-5839560...@bxe1172.bisx.prod.on.blackberry
 
 Content-Type: text/plain
 
 Races are replacable. If the spindles are worn you will
 have problems with new bearings.
 Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
 
 Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:03:45
 To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
 
 
 So
 the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My
 wife says
 he said the passenger side was the worse of them but both
 were bad. I
 wonder if they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and
 see.
 I'd
 done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too
 tight but
 the car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings.
 Maybe 6500 on
 the driver's side which my Indy had done. As I say both had
 failed
 badly before being replaced.
 
 I asked last time I went through
 this but nobody replied; are the bearing races in the hub
 replaceable
 or would I need a new hub?
 
 -Curt
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread WILTON
But, if you don't have a dial indicator, you use what you have.  50 years 
ago, I didn't have a dial indicator for the Chevy and B-47 aircraft wheel 
bearings I replaced.  Actually, still don't have one - 'course, 'been 50 
years since I replaced a wheel bearing, too.   ;)


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: LWB250 lwb...@yahoo.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 6:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...



The ONLY way to properly set MB wheel bearings with with the use of a dial 
indicator.  Period.  Using a by feel method will result in the bearings 
being too loose, and cause premature failure.


Dan

--- On Thu, 5/14/09, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:


From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Date: Thursday, May 14, 2009, 10:09 AM
I used to confirm/test wheel bearings
by jacking the wheel up and rotating it by hand; I could
hear and feel the roughness of a bad bearing. With it
jacked up, give it a good, hard spin like a roulette wheel;
let it spin freely and listen closely (in quiet
surroundings, away from the freeway or a jet engine test
stand). If you can move/rock the wheel back and forth
a bit (any) on the spindle, the bearing is too loose and is
gonna be damaged soon if not already. Replacing a
bearing to me also means replacing bearing AND
races.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 8:49 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...


How do I replace the races? Or more specifically how do I
get the *$...@! old ones out? Big press? I beat on them a
little last time (the outer one I think) but didn't want to
damage it...

How do I test bearings? Jack up the car and wiggle the
wheel? Maybe they're just set loose...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 00:06:52 +
From: brian.tosc...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
1580429519-1242259570-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-5839560...@bxe1172.bisx.prod.on.blackberry

Content-Type: text/plain

Races are replacable. If the spindles are worn you will
have problems with new bearings.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:03:45
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...


So
the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My
wife says
he said the passenger side was the worse of them but both
were bad. I
wonder if they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and
see.
I'd
done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too
tight but
the car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings.
Maybe 6500 on
the driver's side which my Indy had done. As I say both had
failed
badly before being replaced.

I asked last time I went through
this but nobody replied; are the bearing races in the hub
replaceable
or would I need a new hub?

-Curt





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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-14 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay)
 didn't but the set I got from McParts did.

If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. They
are matched. They must be used together.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-14 Thread WILTON

Absolutely!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings



On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay)
didn't but the set I got from McParts did.


If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. They
are matched. They must be used together.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-14 Thread Curt Raymond
Which of course made me check...
Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings so I 
didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't replace the 
bearings I just re-greased them.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay)
 didn't but the set I got from McParts did.

If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. They
are matched. They must be used together.


Craig


  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings

2009-05-14 Thread WILTON
Re-greasing is OK, if bearings, including races, are still in good 
condition, and you can clean out all the old goop and be sure when you start 
re-greasing that the bearings are CLEAN and DRY.  The grease must then be 
pressed in a little bit at a time with heal of the hand 'til it 
squeezes/oozes out the other side of the bearing.  Put a dollop of grease on 
the heal of hand (I prefer left hand); grasp bearing with fingers of other 
hand and press the free side of the bearing (side opposite the fingers) onto 
the EDGE of the dollop of grease and down onto the heal of the hand, 
pressing a small amount of grease into the bearing.  Turn the bearing in 
your fingers a bit and repeat the pressing operation; repeat the turning and 
pressing operation 'til grease oozes sufficiently out the topside (side 
opposite the heal of your hand).  Once grease is oozing from ALL the little 
cracks/openings, it's done/full - no way to get any more in it - stop 
playing with it.  Others may have a procedure that works equally well, but 
this USAF aircraft mechanic procedure works(ed) well for me.  'Haven't 
needed it in a LONG time, though.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 14, 2009 10:13 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings



Which of course made me check...
Sonofa... There are races. They're shrink wrapped in with the bearings so 
I didn't see 'em before. I remember also that on the 240D I didn't replace 
the bearings I just re-greased them.


-Curt

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 19:16:46 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey diese...@cnsp.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 20090514191646.57a107c9.diese...@cnsp.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Thu, 14 May 2009 09:57:36 -0700 (PDT) Curt Raymond
curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:


Do bearing sets from Rusty come with races? The set I've got (from eBay)
didn't but the set I got from McParts did.


If a bearing you buy do not come with two parts, the outer race and the
inner race with the rollers, you have bought only part of a bearing. They
are matched. They must be used together.


Craig



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-14 Thread Peter Frederick
Not really.  We have a soft punch that will work just fine, only need  
to sharpen it by grinding the end flat once in a while.  Bugger of  
a job, that's why I recommend you be careful to get it right way  
round the first time, especially with Timken bearings.


The MB tool makes it easier, but not enough to pay for it.

Peter

On May 14, 2009, at 9:21 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:


Hi Peter,

That sounds like its probably my problem then. Where do I get the  
MB tool, does it really make the job substantially easier? How much  
am I splurging?


The MacParts in my town (Car Quest) can get the seal, its $30(!)  
and takes around 3 hours to get it from the warehouse.


Thanks!

-Curt

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:44:56 -0500
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: 63d7327a-20f0-4891-bdde-4f46cc013...@earthlink.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

You should always replace the races as a matter of course -- if the
bearing rollers are bad, so are the races, and they will eat a new
set of rollers in a few thousand miles.  BTDT.

You can drive them in and out with a soft punch, or splurge on the MB
driving tool.  Have a care to get them in right way round, and make
SURE the seat is clean and that the new race is seated properly.

Timkens fit tighter and are harder to install than SKF, but either
will work.  Available at McParts.  Wheel seal, however, is not.

Do replace the seal each time you take the bearings out, even if just
for inspection.  This is the usual failure point -- seal wears, water
and salt get in, bearings go to the bad place.

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-13 Thread brian . toscano
Races are replacable.  If the spindles are worn you will have problems with new 
bearings.  
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

-Original Message-
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 17:03:45 
To: Diesel Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...


So the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My wife says he 
said the passenger side was the worse of them but both were bad. I wonder if 
they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and see.
I'd done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too tight but the 
car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings. Maybe 6500 on the driver's 
side which my Indy had done. As I say both had failed badly before being 
replaced.

I asked last time I went through this but nobody replied; are the bearing races 
in the hub replaceable or would I need a new hub?

-Curt



  
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-13 Thread Jim Cathey

are the bearing races in the hub replaceable or would I need a new hub?


If you can get them out, they're replaceable.  An old farmer's
trick is to arc-weld a bead across the face of the race.  When
it cools it contracts, reducing the diameter of the race slightly.
Repeat as necessary.  Only if you can't pound them out, of course.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearings cont...

2009-05-13 Thread Peter Frederick
You should always replace the races as a matter of course -- if the  
bearing rollers are bad, so are the races, and they will eat a new  
set of rollers in a few thousand miles.  BTDT.


You can drive them in and out with a soft punch, or splurge on the MB  
driving tool.  Have a care to get them in right way round, and make  
SURE the seat is clean and that the new race is seated properly.


Timkens fit tighter and are harder to install than SKF, but either  
will work.  Available at McParts.  Wheel seal, however, is not.


Do replace the seal each time you take the bearings out, even if just  
for inspection.  This is the usual failure point -- seal wears, water  
and salt get in, bearings go to the bad place.


Peter

On May 13, 2009, at 7:03 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

So the inspection report says its the front wheel bearings. My wife  
says he said the passenger side was the worse of them but both were  
bad. I wonder if they're just loose, I need time to jack it up and  
see.
I'd done the passenger side last fall, could be I got them too  
tight but the car has probably 4500-6000 miles on those bearings.  
Maybe 6500 on the driver's side which my Indy had done. As I say  
both had failed badly before being replaced.


I asked last time I went through this but nobody replied; are the  
bearing races in the hub replaceable or would I need a new hub?


-Curt




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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-10-01 Thread Bob DuPuy
One method that works for seal removal on some but not all set ups is
to remove the nut and outside bearing then reinstall just the nut.
Pull briskly out and down on the rotor. The nut inner bearing and seal
will be left on the spindle with the seal usually still reuseable
after CVI.

Bob D.

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Wray Stanley
Craig McCluskey wrote:

 I thought I had done a good job. I was wrong. One side of the seal was
 pressed down, but not as much as the last time.
 
 So, how good is good enough?

Craig,

The seal must be installed till it is fully seated. In your situation, 
the side of the seal that is pressed down is fully seated; the rest of 
the seal isn't.

With a hammer and a block of wood, start tapping around the raised 
portion of the seal till the entire circumference of the seal is equally 
pressed down.

Finish by gently tapping around the seal with just the hammer, no wood 
block. You can tell by the sound when the seal is seated. A seated seal 
makes a harder sound.

Wray

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sat, 29 Sep 2007 21:12:53 -0600 Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I'll send a picture on a reply to this email (if I attach it to this
 email, it will be held up for Kaleb's approval).

Here's the picture.

It sure is frustrating not having the correct tools ...


Craig
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 04:59:37 -0400 Wray Stanley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Craig McCluskey wrote:
 
  I thought I had done a good job. I was wrong. One side of the seal was
  pressed down, but not as much as the last time.
  
  So, how good is good enough?
 
 Craig,
 
 The seal must be installed till it is fully seated. In your situation, 
 the side of the seal that is pressed down is fully seated; the rest of
 the seal isn't.

Now that the picture has been posted, take a look at it. Everything is
fully seated. The side in question has been bent down.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Jim Cathey
 The seal must be installed till it is fully seated.

Incidentally, the old seal often makes a perfectly-sized
seal driver.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 08:10:53 -0700 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  The seal must be installed till it is fully seated.
 
 Incidentally, the old seal often makes a perfectly-sized
 seal driver.

Unless you have bent it out of shape trying to remove it.

How do YOU remove seals?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Jim Cathey
 Unless you have bent it out of shape trying to remove it.

Just bend it back into shape, more or less.  It doesn't
need to be perfect!

 How do YOU remove seals?

Like everybody else, with a screwdriver.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread LarryT
Peters suggestion is perfect.   A large flat hammer - I have a 4# and a 8# 
IIRC.  But the thing is, there are several of us who have messed with stuff 
like this for 30+ years and have developed a feel for doing something like 
this.  For those who do something like this once every 10 years I suggest 
the flat,, soft wood approach,  and the right tool makes all the difference. 
For the price of that Overnight shipment a new socket could have been 
bought.

The critical part is getting the seal started.  It must be started straight 
or it won't work.  Period.  You;ll end up forcing it into place and it will 
not form a perfect seal.  Once the grease gets hot it'll start to leak.

This is not brain surgery, but it needs a slow, steady approach.  Any rush 
or using the wrong tools and you'll be starting over. (no offense Craig, I 
know you are experienced - becoming more experiencd by the day ;-)

The sound of a fullly seated seal will be similar to a  bearing race being 
fully seated - it will make a sharp sound until it bottoms then changes to a 
solid sound.

BTW, I like to use inexpensive sockets for pressing stuff like this into 
place.  They end up being damaged somewhat and it's easier with a cheap one 
than part of an expensive set.  They can be bought at flea markets and yard 
sales for a buck apiece.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
.

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!


I have always driven the grease seal in with a large hammer, very
 gently applied.  It is sheet metal, every easy to distort, so lightly
 tapping with a broad faced hammer allows you to get it in quite
 straight.

 If you don't feel good about that, use a small, flat piece of wood,
 preferably a crappy two by four, as it is quite soft and won't damage
 the seal so easily as steel.

 They don't take much effort to drive in and seat -- nothing at all like
 a Timken race!

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Scott Ritchey
I have had success seating the wheel bearing seal with a big flat piece of
wood (and a hammer) and also with the deal driver kit you can borrow from
Autozone, etc.

Scott Ritchey

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2007 23:13
To: mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

Well, I started the process to put my new dial indicator to use and jacked
up the front of the car and removed both wheels. I attacked the driver's
side wheel first. I took the brake caliper off, hung it by a piece of
coathanger wire, and removed the hub and disk.

With a fair amount of difficulty, I got the old grease seal off and
removed the bearings. After much cleaning later (alcohol doesn't cut
grease very well, but it's the only solvent I have), I weighed out some of
the green Mercedes grease into both new grease caps (15 grams each) and
then weighed out 50 grams into two sandwich bags for the two sets of
bearings and hubs. The process of forcing the new grease into the bearings
was a very gooey mess, going not quite as well as I had hoped, but it got
done adequately.

I then proceeded to get my largest socket and tap the seal into place.
Unfortunately, my largest socket wasn't quite large enough and I pushed
one lip of the seal down a noticable amount. After surveying the
situation, I decided to take that one out (and make an overnight shipment
from Rusty necessary). After much struggle again, I got the seal out.

The second time, I knew I had to do something differently. I went next
door and looked at my neighbor's socket collection. Worse than mine. Back
home, I spied the old water pump/fan pulley from the 240D motor. The
mounting flange of the pulley is much larger in diameter than the seal and
thus would not cause the problem I had earlier. So, I proceeded with the
pulley's face resting on the seal and the large socket resting on the
pulley's mounting surface.

I thought I had done a good job. I was wrong. One side of the seal was
pressed down, but not as much as the last time.

So, how good is good enough? I'll be calling Rusty early Monday for a set
of new seals (maybe two), so I can replace this one, too (fortunately the
tube of grease has a little extra grease in it so greasing the lips of
successive new seals won't short the hub of grease).

Any comments? Suggestions? Help? Help!

I'll send a picture on a reply to this email (if I attach it to this
email, it will be held up for Kaleb's approval).


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:33:57 -0400 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 (no offense Craig, I know you are experienced - becoming more experiencd
 by the day ;-)

Both my wife and I got a laugh out of this. You're right, I AM becoming
more experienced! Reminds me of the line:

The ability to make good choices comes from experience.
How do you get experience?
Bad choices.


 For those who do something like this once every 10 years I suggest 
 the flat,, soft wood approach,

The frustrating part is I've done it in the past with no problems, but not
recently. More than 10 years ago, as a matter of fact. A fellow at church
this morning said a neighbor of his has a hydraulic press in case I'm
interested.


 For the price of that Overnight shipment a new socket could have been 
 bought.

My neighbor suggested the seal might be a standard part and that the local
NAPA might have it. Though as I said on another thread, 

  When I was in Austin, Texas, I found that if I had purchased V-belts
  for my car from Rusty and had him ship them overnight, it would have
  been cheaper than buying from the local NAPA (which, unfortunately,
  is what I did before I found out what Rusty's delivered cost would
  have been).



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:01:19 -0500 Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.

I can certainly easily put the seal in the freezer. Heating the hub would
be a problem because it's massive and because the grease I put in the
middle of the hub would soften and run out. Messes are nice, messes are
fun, but I've had enough fun with this already.



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:36:05 -0400 Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I have had success seating the wheel bearing seal with a big flat piece
 of wood (and a hammer) and also with the deal driver kit you can
 borrow from Autozone, etc.

I had not thought of that. It's worth looking into. Thanks.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Peter Frederick
The problem is that the seal is soft sheet metal, doesn't take much to 
bend it up.  I've wrecked a few in my time!

They are available at McParts, usually -- after all, they have the 
bearings.  Not always, though, as the spindle size isn't determined by 
the bearing seat size.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Scott Ritchey
The trick is you need to push it in straight.  A piece of wood bigger than
the seal (e.g. a piece of 2x4) distributes the force from the hammer evenly.
If the seal starts to cock, pull it out and start over.

Scott

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey
Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 17:42
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:33:57 -0400 LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 (no offense Craig, I know you are experienced - becoming more experiencd
 by the day ;-)

Both my wife and I got a laugh out of this. You're right, I AM becoming
more experienced! Reminds me of the line:

The ability to make good choices comes from experience.
How do you get experience?
Bad choices.


 For those who do something like this once every 10 years I suggest 
 the flat,, soft wood approach,

The frustrating part is I've done it in the past with no problems, but not
recently. More than 10 years ago, as a matter of fact. A fellow at church
this morning said a neighbor of his has a hydraulic press in case I'm
interested.


 For the price of that Overnight shipment a new socket could have been 
 bought.

My neighbor suggested the seal might be a standard part and that the local
NAPA might have it. Though as I said on another thread, 

  When I was in Austin, Texas, I found that if I had purchased V-belts
  for my car from Rusty and had him ship them overnight, it would have
  been cheaper than buying from the local NAPA (which, unfortunately,
  is what I did before I found out what Rusty's delivered cost would
  have been).



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:01:19 -0500 Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.

I can certainly easily put the seal in the freezer. Heating the hub would
be a problem because it's massive and because the grease I put in the
middle of the hub would soften and run out. Messes are nice, messes are
fun, but I've had enough fun with this already.



On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:36:05 -0400 Scott Ritchey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 I have had success seating the wheel bearing seal with a big flat piece
 of wood (and a hammer) and also with the deal driver kit you can
 borrow from Autozone, etc.

I had not thought of that. It's worth looking into. Thanks.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Rick Knoble
 How do YOU remove seals?
 
 Like everybody else, with a screwdriver.
 
 -- Jim

Or a seal puller from Sears Hardware or your F.L.A.P.S.

Rick Knoble 
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Hendrik Fay
I have not had problems getting seals in, like others said, use a large, 
flat faced hammer (not a sledge because they are too hard to control) 
and gently tap tap tap away. Don't rush it, you got all day. If you get 
a few small dents in the seal it is not the end of the world but if 
there are big dings then the seal may well be distorted. The main thing 
is to make sure that the seal goes in straight, if it gets lopsided then 
it will be very hard to move.
I would not recommend heat/cold because by the time you take the seal 
out of the freezer and move it to the work area it will be at room 
temperature again. Also in oder to gain any benefit from heat you will 
have to apply a fair bit of heat (this is because the hub is designed 
not to expand with moderate heat) and you will burn yourself.

Harry Watkins wrote:
 Craig

 A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.
 Cleanly re-capture your grease.  Put the seal in the freezer for a spell and
 just before you are ready to do the install, use a heat gun or hair dryer on
 the female part.  Limit touching the seal with your hands as much as
 possible.

 It may give you an edge.

 Harry

   

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-30 Thread Hendrik Fay
Another way to do this is to use the old wheel bearing cup to bash the 
seal in, that's usually what I do.

Hendrik  Fay wrote:
 I have not had problems getting seals in, like others said, use a large, 
 flat faced hammer (not a sledge because they are too hard to control) 
 and gently tap tap tap away. Don't rush it, you got all day. If you get 
 a few small dents in the seal it is not the end of the world but if 
 there are big dings then the seal may well be distorted. The main thing 
 is to make sure that the seal goes in straight, if it gets lopsided then 
 it will be very hard to move.
 I would not recommend heat/cold because by the time you take the seal 
 out of the freezer and move it to the work area it will be at room 
 temperature again. Also in oder to gain any benefit from heat you will 
 have to apply a fair bit of heat (this is because the hub is designed 
 not to expand with moderate heat) and you will burn yourself.

 Harry Watkins wrote:
   
 Craig

 A heat and cold method will give you a better shot of getting it right.
 Cleanly re-capture your grease.  Put the seal in the freezer for a spell and
 just before you are ready to do the install, use a heat gun or hair dryer on
 the female part.  Limit touching the seal with your hands as much as
 possible.

 It may give you an edge.

 Harry

   
 

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Re: [MBZ] Wheel Bearings!

2007-09-29 Thread Jim Cathey
 Any comments? Suggestions? Help? Help!

Get some more big sockets!  Harbor Freight makes a nice
set of 3/4 drive seal presses that periodically go on
sale.  As a bonus, you can even use them to bar over the
engine, and remove fuel tank senders.

-- Jim


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