Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[MattsAwesomeStuff]

*waves back to everyone*

For the newcomers and refresher for the oldtimers...

4 years ago I bought a 1985 750s with a blown engine, as a rolling frame
with rubbermaids and shopping bags of misc parts and hardware from his
failed attempt at restoring it, for $20. My goal was to turn it into an
electric motorbike built entirely out of unwanted garbage.

I got it mostly reassembled by trial and error, and working, and then
paused to consider batteries, because my batteries depend on what my speed
controller is, and I wasn't sure about my speed controller. I'm in Canada
and things went slower than I hoped, and winter hit, so I lost enthusiasm.

Then, my driveshaft came out the last time I went to work on it the next
year.

Then someone stole my favorite helmet (I bought 3 used ones cheap, just to
see what I'd like).

The reason I never finished it was because my battery source of good
batteries dried up. Originally I planned on just old starter batteries, but
then I switched to a seemingly bottomless source of lithium batteries
recycled out of junk tool packs. That source closed down and combined with
another city.

Now I had plenty of batteries to build the bike. Maybe even twice as many
as I'd need for the bike. But the problem was that... I now had almost
enough for an entire car. But only barely. So if I used them on the bike, I
definitely couldn't have a usable car.

I hemmed and hawed for the next couple years, and recently moved it when
they cleaned the parkade and thought... I need to finish this damned thing.

In one of my first post I said: "I have issues with completion on projects,
so, simpler is better"

Indeed. Why am I working on my bike all of a sudden? Well because I've
spent the last year working on my electric car (a 1970 Opel GT, or rather
2, that I rescued from the shredders and combined 2 cut up bodies into
one). So naturally as I'm burning out on that, I'm procrastinating that
work and starting to distract myself with other projects again. So back to
the bike.

Step 1: Just shut up get it rolling. Do what it takes. Don't care about
optimum. Done is better then perfect.

Blah blah is my 36v controller the best option? Will I even be able to hit
40mph with voltage that low? Who cares. See Step 1, get it rolling.

Blah blah, how do I configure my batteries? See Step 1. I asked the local
NAPA if I could buy 3 of the best-worst used starter batteries people had
dropped off for the core charge, for the price of the core charge they said
sure. Anything moderately serviceable. Maybe it'll die after 5 trips of
being deep discharged. Oh well. Get it rolling.

No motorcycle license? No problem. I'm going to register it as a moped. I
doubt I'll hit 40mph anyway. I'll ride it until I'm comfortable and get my
motorcycle license, then maybe upgrade to better batteries in the future.

The gimmicky goal was "Build an electric motorcycle from garbage" and I've
succeeded. It will work. I'm not quite as cheap as I used to be (restoring
a 50 year old car has corners that simply cannot be cut, it's kind of
beaten that out of me), so when I upgrade it I'll probably spend a few
hundred on making it be not terrible.

Also, some of you guys helped me out a lot with parts and advice, and the
only payback you get from that is seeing that your contributions made a
difference, so, I want to at least share that it eventually did.

All it needs is:
 - 3 starter batteries.
 - Battery frame somehow.
 - Battery wired up.
 - Controller I already have to be mounted and wired up.
 - Maybe a different throttle (forklift throttle is sketchy)
 - Put the driveshaft back together or whatever happened to it there.
 - New mirrors
 - Probably new tires if I want to be safe.
 - Front turn signal indicator clamps (the par that grasps the bar is
cracked at the back of the "C" shape on both sides). Any idea where to buy
replacements? I'll just buy them now.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

Reading the manual more carefully (section 13 for those following along in
the 700sc)...

It looks like there are heavy springs on either end of the driveshaft, and,
it says to use the rear shock compressor tool to compress them on the
driveshaft. I don't have that, though I suppose a couple 2x4s with holes in
them and some pipe clamps would work in a pinch.

I don't quite get what the compressing tool does. Yeah it compresses them
obviously, but then at some point the springs have to be locked into place
with something, and I can't just slide that in while they're compressed
unless I overcompress it right past the entire clamping mechanism.

Some pics...

Back axle on the right, towards transmission on the left. All this is at
the wheel side.


​

Same orientation but shows both ends of the driveshaft.


Reverse orientation, now you're looking at the U-joint side.


Confusingly, it never shows both springs on the driveshaft at the same
time. I'm not 100% certain I'm not reading it wrong and that there's only 1.

And when I feel at the U-Joint end for a groove to lock the circlip, there
is none.

And I have this shouldered-washer (a washer that cups the end of the spring
a bit)... ya figure that goes next to the circlip, or on the opposite end
of the spring?

So confused and this is my first automotive project ever so, no experience
to draw on. Anyone ever pulled a driveshaft before?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

 *Battery Bulk*:

My big goal was to get 60 miles (100km) worth of range at highway speeds. I
need ~140-200 watt-hours to travel a mile at those speeds.

I have these 4x5 battery holders, an 18650's average voltage through it's
discharge curve is ~3.7, maybe 3.75v, cells are roughly 2000mah each (good
ones are 2600, I'll stuff in as many of those as possible), so each 4x5
brick of 20 cells is roughly 150 watt-hours and weighs 2 lbs.


*Battery Weight*:

At a brick a mile, I need to find room to fit 60 of the bricks in the frame
(9000 watt-hours). Since I'm doing strings of 11, might as well round it up
or down to 55 or 66 bricks. It'll weigh about 120 lbs to do that.

Motor is 92lbs, so motor+battery is 212 lbs, plus the weight of wiring and
the battery enclosure.

The original engine according to spec was 181 lbs dry. Plus fluids. Plus
exhaust. Plus fuel.

I should weigh the bike now and compare it to the 467lbs it was originally.

In any case, I'm in the right ballpark I'd say.


*Battery Sizing Layout*:

My first big happy surprise. I had more room in the frame than I thought.

66 bricks is roughly 2 milk crates worth, bulk-wise.

Just looking at the bike, I figured there was no way I'd find room to fit
them. I've been putting it off forever, but tonight I dummied up a bunch of
empty battery trays and started seeing where they could go.


​

1 - Below radiator, in front of frame: 4x4 bricks, +4 if I remove radiator.
16-20 total.
2 - Below/between frame, below motor (as in pic): 3x4 bricks. If I
double-stack (each stack is 2.5" tall), double that. Brake disc is 6" above
ground, so I figure I'm okay with that clearance for city riding? 12 or 24
total.
3 - Beside motor: Sloppily, sticking out of frame, 5 first tier, 8 on
second tier, 8 more on third tier. 21.
4 - Above Motor Right: 5x2 bricks. Three tiers. The mounting for the motor
sticks out 2" so I have to separate right from left. 30 total.
5 - Above Motor Left: 4x2 bricks. Three tiers, but it's getting ugly to not
narrow at the top of the frame. 24 total.
6 - Under Tank: 2x2. Not much space, hard to fit, but room for 4 total.
7 - Above Swingarm Triange: 3x2. 3 tiers. Nice and narrowly tucked, won't
interfere with my thighs. 18 total.

*Grand total*: 125-141 bricks.

Jeez, I only needed room for 66.

Heck, I only have enough weight available for 66 (not 250-280 lbs).

I don't even have 141x20 = 2820 cells = 21kwh of cells. That's almost as
much as a Nissan Leaf.


This isn't the layout I'll be using, or even the orientation, it was just
the easiest way to slab up cell holders and ballpark the spacing available.
If I'm over what I need by at least double... I can afford to make some
choices based on cosmetics, not "What used to look like a motorbike now
with a bunch of bricks".

I can skip the whole row in front of the frame. The 2nd tier below the
frame. I can slim a whole row of bricks off of the left and right sides
each. Still have room for 66. Easy.

Expecting my hubris to bite me later, but, for now I have some breathing
room.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

Figured I owe you guys an update:

Batteries:

Last couple months have been battery charging and capacity testing 24/7 on
both chargers.

I now have around 1800 cells capacity tested and marked (~2.5 milk crates
worth) and still another, oh, 700 or so still to process. Of the 1800, 200
are a larger form factor I'll use on a moped, and at least another 2-300
are 33% lower than the rest (just older and that's as good as they made
them back then), so I'll drop those out.

I need to make some cardboard mockups of the batteries and start measuring
the frame to find out where I'm going to put all of them, but, roughly
speaking I think there's only room for 1200 cells on the bike at most.
That's around 10,000 watt-hours. At 150 watt-hours per mile at highway
speed, that's 66 miles range. When I started this project I was hoping for
15 miles, so, things are lookin' good.


Throttle:

I ordered 4 different electronic throttles from China. 2 of them showed up.
1 of them works. Perfect, all told under $15 shipping included from the
various sellers. I'm getting the hang of this "parts from overseas" thing.
As they say in sailing "If you can't tie knots, tie lots."


Controller:

Until I get around to figuring out how to mount and stuff all the batteries
in, I need to figure out the controller. It's my next real bottleneck.

I have 3 forklift controllers and one golf cart controller, but all of them
are lower voltage than I want (24-36v max). Some of them have decent amp
abilities (100-200 amps), but that combined is still only around 5000
watts. That's enough for moped speeds, but not highway speeds and not hills.

I can buy (*spit*) a DC motor controller for $1000, or a DIY kit for $600,
but I'd ideally build one myself or find something junky I can use. I'm
keeping my eye on some electrical vehicle forums, but, damned things are
trendy nowadays.

I don't really want to build the battery packs until I know the size of the
controllers I'm using, since it'll probably eat up 10% of the battery pack
size.

...

That's about all that's new with me. While stumped, I'm fixing up an
electric moped and building it a new (used to be lead-acid) lithium pack
which I figure will be good practice for the Nighthawk when I'm done.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Nate R. - Phily, PA - 83, now 84 650]

Love the update. I was hoping to hear about this again. I'm ready for 
season 2 of the electric nighthawk Franken-version!

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> Someone once came up with the idea of using a chain..

Dual.

Driveshaft.

Dual, Driveshaft.

Dual Driveshaft.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

Someone once came up with the idea of using a chain..

On Mon, Dec 4, 2017 at 11:43 PM Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> > honestly, why do you want two drive shafts? The one transmits more than
> enough torque to the rear wheel and is half the maintenance.
>
> 1 - Symmetry. One lopsided motor is a bit janky.
>
> 2 - Balance. The motor is in line with the center of the driveshaft.
> It makes the bike 100lbs heavy on the left side. Batteries will help,
> but, lithium doesn't weight as much as steel and copper.
>
> 3 - Uniqueness/Challenge/Coolness. In my head, dual, mirrored motors
> side by side would just look badass, and I don't think I've seen it
> done anywhere.
>
> 4 - Controller help. Two smaller controllers are easier than one big
> one. I'm having trouble finding a big enough controller.
>
> 5 - Redundancy. If anything happens to a motor/brush/etc, I've got another.
>
> 6 - Regen. I think it'd be easier to flip one motor into regen mode
> than to flip the only motor into regen.
>
> ...
>
> Seriously though, #3 is like, 75% of why I want to. With one motor it
> looks like I've got a motor hanging off the bike like an abdominal
> tumor. A pair of them looks awesome.
>
>
> > Have it spin a tire underneath the bike like a gyroscope (self balancing)
>
> That doesn't actually work like people think it does, that has nothing
> to do with why a bike stays upright, also, it would prevent it from
> going around corners (gyro would resist change to direction and act
> like a giant tow rope dragging you in the same direction). Also, no,
> stop, I don't need more ideas, I'm curious if my current idea is
> feasible or impossible. :P
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> honestly, why do you want two drive shafts? The one transmits more than 
> enough torque to the rear wheel and is half the maintenance.

1 - Symmetry. One lopsided motor is a bit janky.

2 - Balance. The motor is in line with the center of the driveshaft.
It makes the bike 100lbs heavy on the left side. Batteries will help,
but, lithium doesn't weight as much as steel and copper.

3 - Uniqueness/Challenge/Coolness. In my head, dual, mirrored motors
side by side would just look badass, and I don't think I've seen it
done anywhere.

4 - Controller help. Two smaller controllers are easier than one big
one. I'm having trouble finding a big enough controller.

5 - Redundancy. If anything happens to a motor/brush/etc, I've got another.

6 - Regen. I think it'd be easier to flip one motor into regen mode
than to flip the only motor into regen.

...

Seriously though, #3 is like, 75% of why I want to. With one motor it
looks like I've got a motor hanging off the bike like an abdominal
tumor. A pair of them looks awesome.


> Have it spin a tire underneath the bike like a gyroscope (self balancing)

That doesn't actually work like people think it does, that has nothing
to do with why a bike stays upright, also, it would prevent it from
going around corners (gyro would resist change to direction and act
like a giant tow rope dragging you in the same direction). Also, no,
stop, I don't need more ideas, I'm curious if my current idea is
feasible or impossible. :P

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kyle Munz]

We're here to help with the feature creep, but honestly, why do you want
two drive shafts? The one transmits more than enough torque to the rear
wheel and is half the maintenance.

On Dec 4, 2017 16:41, "Matt Awesome"  wrote:

> > Why stop at two drive shafts? You could run two rear wheels side by side
> > like the Dodge Tomahawk.
>
> Come on now, I have enough feature creep from my own stupid ideas, I
> don't need you guys adding more.
>
> > Run the driveshaft up to the steering head then down to the front wheel
>
> Why not just add wings and turn it to a hoverbike?
>
> Stop that. Focus is already an issue with me.
>
> And I've already looked into that. FWD on a bike is somewhat dangerous
> I've heard, because unlike with a car, if you lose traction the tire
> tries to flop over. A friend of mine built a FWD electric bike and
> it's moderately terrifying to ride.
>
> Two driveshafts, same tire. As much stock as possible. Doable?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> Why stop at two drive shafts? You could run two rear wheels side by side
> like the Dodge Tomahawk.

Come on now, I have enough feature creep from my own stupid ideas, I
don't need you guys adding more.

> Run the driveshaft up to the steering head then down to the front wheel

Why not just add wings and turn it to a hoverbike?

Stop that. Focus is already an issue with me.

And I've already looked into that. FWD on a bike is somewhat dangerous
I've heard, because unlike with a car, if you lose traction the tire
tries to flop over. A friend of mine built a FWD electric bike and
it's moderately terrifying to ride.

Two driveshafts, same tire. As much stock as possible. Doable?

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Richard Potter]

Run the driveshaft up to the steering head then down to the front wheel

From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Munz
Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2017 6:55 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

Why stop at two drive shafts? You could run two rear wheels side by side like 
the Dodge Tomahawk.


-Kyle

On Fri, Dec 1, 2017 at 11:59 PM, Matt Awesome 
<mattsawesomest...@gmail.com<mailto:mattsawesomest...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Well it's snowing and blowing out so I haven't been around to working on the 
bike, since there's no rush until spring.
... which had me thinking some stupid thoughts. So for shits and giggles and 
the intellectual exercise of it all, feel free to talk me into/out of them...
Suppose I want do have a dual-driveshaft bike. I've never seen one. It would be 
unique. It's stupid, I'll add 80lbs and lose space and weight for batteries, to 
gain horsepower I don't need and won't use, but, whatever. Suppose I steal the 
rear tire and driveshaft from a donor bike, so parts-wise I have enough to do 
it. What then? Is it even possible? What would it entail?
It's the only part of the bike I haven't disassembled so I'm not sure what goes 
on in there.
I'll kick things off:
1 - The shaft would have to rotate in the opposite direction. That's easy, 
since it'll be dual-electric motor.
2 - However the driveshaft engages with the rear tire is obviously on the left 
side, so to make it work, I would have to flip it upside down for the left side.
3 - I presume the drum brake is on the left side there somewhere? So I'd lose a 
drum brake (I'd have to either add a disc or use regen braking to have 
highway-legal 2 braking systems).
4 - The rear swingarm would have to have the right beam cut off and the new 
hollow thingy with the driveshaft welded in its place. No problem, I have a 
welder.
...
Talk me out of/into this. What are the obstacles I'd need to overcome?
 - Is there liquid lube that would sit in the wrong spot if upside down?
 - Would it be infeasible/impossible to mount the wheel gear assembly on the 
opposite side? How mirrored is the hub?
In the meantime I've been building a battery tester/charger I'll share soon and 
I've picked up a total of, oh, 300 lbs of lithium batteries so far. More than 
I'll use on the bike I think.
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kyle Munz]

Why stop at two drive shafts? You could run two rear wheels side by side
like the Dodge Tomahawk.


-Kyle

On Fri, Dec 1, 2017 at 11:59 PM, Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> Well it's snowing and blowing out so I haven't been around to working on
> the bike, since there's no rush until spring.
>
> ... which had me thinking some stupid thoughts. So for shits and giggles
> and the intellectual exercise of it all, feel free to talk me into/out of
> them...
>
> Suppose I want do have a dual-driveshaft bike. I've never seen one. It
> would be unique. It's stupid, I'll add 80lbs and lose space and weight for
> batteries, to gain horsepower I don't need and won't use, but, whatever.
> Suppose I steal the rear tire and driveshaft from a donor bike, so
> parts-wise I have enough to do it. What then? Is it even possible? What
> would it entail?
>
> It's the only part of the bike I haven't disassembled so I'm not sure what
> goes on in there.
>
> I'll kick things off:
>
> 1 - The shaft would have to rotate in the opposite direction. That's easy,
> since it'll be dual-electric motor.
>
> 2 - However the driveshaft engages with the rear tire is obviously on the
> left side, so to make it work, I would have to flip it upside down for the
> left side.
>
> 3 - I presume the drum brake is on the left side there somewhere? So I'd
> lose a drum brake (I'd have to either add a disc or use regen braking to
> have highway-legal 2 braking systems).
>
> 4 - The rear swingarm would have to have the right beam cut off and the
> new hollow thingy with the driveshaft welded in its place. No problem, I
> have a welder.
>
> ...
>
> Talk me out of/into this. What are the obstacles I'd need to overcome?
>
>  - Is there liquid lube that would sit in the wrong spot if upside down?
>  - Would it be infeasible/impossible to mount the wheel gear assembly on
> the opposite side? How mirrored is the hub?
>
> In the meantime I've been building a battery tester/charger I'll share
> soon and I've picked up a total of, oh, 300 lbs of lithium batteries so
> far. More than I'll use on the bike I think.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

Well it's snowing and blowing out so I haven't been around to working on
the bike, since there's no rush until spring.

... which had me thinking some stupid thoughts. So for shits and giggles
and the intellectual exercise of it all, feel free to talk me into/out of
them...

Suppose I want do have a dual-driveshaft bike. I've never seen one. It
would be unique. It's stupid, I'll add 80lbs and lose space and weight for
batteries, to gain horsepower I don't need and won't use, but, whatever.
Suppose I steal the rear tire and driveshaft from a donor bike, so
parts-wise I have enough to do it. What then? Is it even possible? What
would it entail?

It's the only part of the bike I haven't disassembled so I'm not sure what
goes on in there.

I'll kick things off:

1 - The shaft would have to rotate in the opposite direction. That's easy,
since it'll be dual-electric motor.

2 - However the driveshaft engages with the rear tire is obviously on the
left side, so to make it work, I would have to flip it upside down for the
left side.

3 - I presume the drum brake is on the left side there somewhere? So I'd
lose a drum brake (I'd have to either add a disc or use regen braking to
have highway-legal 2 braking systems).

4 - The rear swingarm would have to have the right beam cut off and the new
hollow thingy with the driveshaft welded in its place. No problem, I have a
welder.

...

Talk me out of/into this. What are the obstacles I'd need to overcome?

 - Is there liquid lube that would sit in the wrong spot if upside down?
 - Would it be infeasible/impossible to mount the wheel gear assembly on
the opposite side? How mirrored is the hub?

In the meantime I've been building a battery tester/charger I'll share soon
and I've picked up a total of, oh, 300 lbs of lithium batteries so far.
More than I'll use on the bike I think.

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kyle Munz]

5 and 8 look closest to stock

On Sep 26, 2017 9:28 AM, "Richard Potter" <rpot...@anaheim.net> wrote:

> #8 looks good
>
>
>
> *From:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com [mailto:nighthawk_lovers@
> googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Dave duChêne
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 26, 2017 2:39 AM
> *To:* nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical
> Conversion
>
>
>
> Get ones with a long stem or you'll be looking at your arms.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> On 26 September 2017 at 02:30, Matt Awesome <mattsawesomest...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
> Live vicariously through my bike. Help me pick new cheap mirrors!
>
> These are all under $20. I'm not necessarily looking for the best original
> match, just, what you think looks best. Which would you go with? Which
> would you avoid? (Also, if you have advice for mirrors, let me know, I've
> never ridden and don't know what the gotchas will be, nor style things like
> "Oh those are for X kind of bikes, they'd look dorky on your Nighthawk").
> I'm all ears.
>
>
>
> Some basic difference: Retangular vs Angled. Corner Stem vs. Center Stem.
>
>
> 1 -
>
>
>
> 2 -
>
>
> 3 -
>
>
> 4 -
>
>
> 5 -
>
>
> 6 -
>
>
> 7 -
>
>
> 8 -
>
> 9 -
>
>
> ​
>
> Or should I get bar-end mirrors?
>
>
>
> --
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> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
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> If you forward this e-mail please remove my address.
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> THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO
> WHICH IT IS ADDRESSED AND MAY CONTAIN INFORMATION THAT IS PRIVILEGED,
> CONFIDENTIAL, AND EXEMPT FROM DISCLOSURE UNDER APPLICABLE LAWS. If the
> reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or the employee or
> agent responsible for delivering the message to the intended recipient, you
> are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or
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> this communication in error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail
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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Richard Potter]

#8 looks good

From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave duChêne
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2017 2:39 AM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

Get ones with a long stem or you'll be looking at your arms.
Dave


On 26 September 2017 at 02:30, Matt Awesome 
<mattsawesomest...@gmail.com<mailto:mattsawesomest...@gmail.com>> wrote:

Live vicariously through my bike. Help me pick new cheap mirrors!

These are all under $20. I'm not necessarily looking for the best original 
match, just, what you think looks best. Which would you go with? Which would 
you avoid? (Also, if you have advice for mirrors, let me know, I've never 
ridden and don't know what the gotchas will be, nor style things like "Oh those 
are for X kind of bikes, they'd look dorky on your Nighthawk"). I'm all ears.

Some basic difference: Retangular vs Angled. Corner Stem vs. Center Stem.

1 -

[cid:image001.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]

2 -
[cid:image002.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]

3 -
[cid:image003.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]

4 -
[cid:image004.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]

5 -
[cid:image005.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]

6 -
[cid:image006.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]

7 -
[cid:image007.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]

8 -
[cid:image005.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]
9 -

[cid:image008.jpg@01D33698.F41FF3E0]
​
Or should I get bar-end mirrors?

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THIS MESSAGE IS INTENDED ONLY FOR THE USE OF THE INDIVIDUAL OR ENTITY TO WHICH 
IT IS ADDRESSED AND MAY CONTAIN INFORMATION THAT IS PRIVILEGED, CONFIDENTIAL, 
AND EXEMPT FROM DISCLOSURE UNDER APPLICABLE LAWS. If the reader of this message 
is not the intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible for 
delivering the message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that 
any dissemination, distribution, forwarding, or copying of this communication 
is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, 
please notify the sender immediately by e-mail or telephone, and delete the 
original message immediately. Thank you.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Dave duChêne]

Get ones with a long stem or you'll be looking at your arms.
Dave


On 26 September 2017 at 02:30, Matt Awesome 
wrote:

>
> Live vicariously through my bike. Help me pick new cheap mirrors!
>
> These are all under $20. I'm not necessarily looking for the best original
> match, just, what you think looks best. Which would you go with? Which
> would you avoid? (Also, if you have advice for mirrors, let me know, I've
> never ridden and don't know what the gotchas will be, nor style things like
> "Oh those are for X kind of bikes, they'd look dorky on your Nighthawk").
> I'm all ears.
>
> Some basic difference: Retangular vs Angled. Corner Stem vs. Center Stem.
>
> 1 -
>
>
>
> 2 -
>
>
> 3 -
>
>
> 4 -
>
>
> 5 -
>
>
> 6 -
>
>
> 7 -
>
>
> 8 -
>
> 9 -
>
>
> ​
> Or should I get bar-end mirrors?
>
> --
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

Live vicariously through my bike. Help me pick new cheap mirrors!

These are all under $20. I'm not necessarily looking for the best original
match, just, what you think looks best. Which would you go with? Which
would you avoid? (Also, if you have advice for mirrors, let me know, I've
never ridden and don't know what the gotchas will be, nor style things like
"Oh those are for X kind of bikes, they'd look dorky on your Nighthawk").
I'm all ears.

Some basic difference: Retangular vs Angled. Corner Stem vs. Center Stem.

1 -



2 -


3 -


4 -


5 -


6 -


7 -


8 -

9 -


​
Or should I get bar-end mirrors?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

Minor progress, riding season is done though.

Headlight:

- Bike store quoted me $25 for a headlight.
- Auto store said I choice between the $34 one and the $17 one.
- Later found the cheap one for $10.


License plate light:

- Another $6. Pain in the ass to get to, you have to take off the
license plate holder and the plate light plate from behind the rear
fender to get at the screws for the lens. Works now.


Tail light:

- Soldered the two sets of wires together, works good now.
- Tried to figure out the mystery mounting bracket and sensor and
spring for the rear brake switch. Couldn't see where the bracket goes,
now that I've re-checked pics I'll look again.


Batteries:

- Restored a bunch of batteries, but left them as-is in the tool packs
rather than strip them for cells since they just needed balancing
(charging) a weak pair.
- Packs are 20V each and good for 50 amps draw. They have 60-100 watt
hours, so, 4-6 minutes at max draw, plenty to fart around the parkade.


Test Ride:

- Figured 2 drill packs in series for 40V ("36v" of lead acids are
actually up around 40-45v when charged, and it was a 36v forklift).
- Didn't have much for wires, so, I figured 50 amps @ 40v = 2000 watts
= 2.7 horsepower is enough to do a low speed test ride. And only
hooked up 2 batteries total.
- First 20 feet at walking speed... controller is growly at super-slow
speeds but it was fine.
- Accelerated to a brisk walk... let the smoke out.
- Apparently pushing 700 lbs off of two little drill batteries on a
1960s controller that has no energy storage and slams power full on
and full off many times a second for speed "control"... is not
appreciated by little batteries.
- First snow of the year later that night.

So, likely, thus ends my progress towards the "Get it running and out
for a ride sometime this season" goal.

Kinda depressing, was looking forward to at least some validation
before the winter. Oh well. Like all my projects, never quite leaves
the bench.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[geo-hawk allan]

according to the shop manual that cable that attaches to the spring that 
goes from there down to the brake pedal is actually a brake light "switch" 
not a sensor as I was mistakenly calling it...

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 4:41:20 PM UTC-4, Matt Awesome wrote:
>
> > I used to have an 80's Honda that had a dash light that lit up and said 
> "Tail light" if the tail light bulb did not function. That's probably what 
> the tail light sensor you're talking about do
>
> Hrm. I do have a tail light bulb on the dash. One would think one could 
> just periodically pull the brake and check. I wonder how the sensor works 
> and what it is. It must measure the current draw to the bulb somehow, and 
> toggle one of the two lights. If the tail light doesn't draw power, the 
> dash light turns on.
>
> I'm pretty sure I don't have the tail light sensor anywhere. I wonder if 
> it's a legal requirement or just a feature of this particular bike? I.E. Am 
> I going to fail a safety inspection if it's not there?
>
> > the bars you got with it, do not look anything like those on my 
> 700s...evidently PO that had yours changed them...
>
> Odd, when I look at replacement ones or ones for sale, they look the same 
> to me.
>
> > The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the 
> brake & are braking
>
> I'm confused. That to me describes the tail light itself, which is of 
> course important. Not the sensor.
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[geo-hawk allan]

exactly...the one attached to the spring is the Braking Light sensor, 
letting folks know you've applied your brakes, when you let off the rear 
brake pedal the tail light remains on, when you step on it the light gets 
brighter..also very important as it lets everyone behind you know you're 
slowing down and should keep one from getting rear ended, due to the 
Braking light sensor NOT hooked up to that spring, that goes to the cable 
and bracket he showed the other day with the 3 brackets he asked about, one 
is what holds the end of the cable where the spring attaches, almost sure 
there's some kind of sensor in the end of that cable? not 100% fairly 
certain there is though...that sends the rear light more power to brighten 
the tail light showing the bike's braking and slowing down..

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 8:32:16 PM UTC-4, EGrider wrote:
>
> > The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the 
> brake & are braking
>
> I'm confused. That to me describes the tail light itself, which is of 
> course important. Not the sensor.
>
> Right. That is pretty much the function of the tail light. There is also a 
> tail light switch that has a spring on it and is activated when you step on 
> the brake pedal. But the tail light sensor tells you the tail light is not 
> working, which could save your life. 
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[geo-hawk allan]

Look back at that photo I took showing you the bracket you asked about & I 
replied that it held the tail light's sensor...it is a sensor that shows 
when you are actually applying the rear brake! Which is why it's attached 
to the spring that goes down and connects to the rear brake pedal itself, 
when you step on it, it in turn pulls that spring/sensor lighting up the 
Braking Light function of the Tail light...tail lights have 2 functions to 
the bulbs, just like blinkers...hope that clarifies better
Same thing on any and every auto...tail lights are on when the lights are 
on, then when you step on the brake the light gets brighter, to show folks 
behind you, you've applied your brakes, that's why I call it a 'brake light 
sensor', not the one on the instrument panel

the handle bars on my 700s are evidently 2 piece bars, 2 per side that is, 
there's adjustments to tilt the bars forward or back at the main stem, then 
half-way or so up the bars out towards the ends/grips, there's another 
adjustment so you can turn them in towards the tank or out and away from 
the tank.I'll get you some photos tomorrow.

On Monday, September 18, 2017 at 4:41:20 PM UTC-4, Matt Awesome wrote:
>
> > I used to have an 80's Honda that had a dash light that lit up and said 
> "Tail light" if the tail light bulb did not function. That's probably what 
> the tail light sensor you're talking about do
>
> Hrm. I do have a tail light bulb on the dash. One would think one could 
> just periodically pull the brake and check. I wonder how the sensor works 
> and what it is. It must measure the current draw to the bulb somehow, and 
> toggle one of the two lights. If the tail light doesn't draw power, the 
> dash light turns on.
>
> I'm pretty sure I don't have the tail light sensor anywhere. I wonder if 
> it's a legal requirement or just a feature of this particular bike? I.E. Am 
> I going to fail a safety inspection if it's not there?
>
> > the bars you got with it, do not look anything like those on my 
> 700s...evidently PO that had yours changed them...
>
> Odd, when I look at replacement ones or ones for sale, they look the same 
> to me.
>
> > The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the 
> brake & are braking
>
> I'm confused. That to me describes the tail light itself, which is of 
> course important. Not the sensor.
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[EGrider]

> The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the 
brake & are braking

I'm confused. That to me describes the tail light itself, which is of 
course important. Not the sensor.

Right. That is pretty much the function of the tail light. There is also a 
tail light switch that has a spring on it and is activated when you step on 
the brake pedal. But the tail light sensor tells you the tail light is not 
working, which could save your life. 

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> I used to have an 80's Honda that had a dash light that lit up and said
"Tail light" if the tail light bulb did not function. That's probably what
the tail light sensor you're talking about do

Hrm. I do have a tail light bulb on the dash. One would think one could
just periodically pull the brake and check. I wonder how the sensor works
and what it is. It must measure the current draw to the bulb somehow, and
toggle one of the two lights. If the tail light doesn't draw power, the
dash light turns on.

I'm pretty sure I don't have the tail light sensor anywhere. I wonder if
it's a legal requirement or just a feature of this particular bike? I.E. Am
I going to fail a safety inspection if it's not there?

> the bars you got with it, do not look anything like those on my
700s...evidently PO that had yours changed them...

Odd, when I look at replacement ones or ones for sale, they look the same
to me.

> The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the
brake & are braking

I'm confused. That to me describes the tail light itself, which is of
course important. Not the sensor.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

Yep, that's what I surmised originally which would give the hydraulic brake 
hose the shortened length

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 18, 2017, at 3:29 PM, geo-hawk allan  wrote:
> 
> the bars you got with it, do not look anything like those on my 
> 700s...evidently PO that had yours changed them...
> The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the brake & 
> are braking...that mounting bracket you had in the one photo is where the end 
> of the cable goes
> 
>> On Thursday, July 6, 2017 at 5:45:59 AM UTC-4, mattsawe...@gmail.com wrote:
>> Hi everyone,
>> 
>> I bought my first motorbike the other day, a 750s with a partially 
>> disassembled (and probably broken?) motor. 
>> 
>> I am a complete novice. I don't have a bike license yet, I've never even sat 
>> on a motorbike before. Engines are black magic to me except the barest 
>> basics. For example, I didn't even known until after I'd bought it that the 
>> model numbers for bikes denote their CC displacement. Like I said, novice. 
>> Electrical things I understand better.
>> 
>> Some have pointed out that it is quite big for a beginner bike, and quite 
>> large for an electrical conversion. Oh well.
>> 
>> I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap donor bike to convert to electrical 
>> on the cheap (junk forklift or golf kart parts) for light commuting. But 
>> mostly, for a project.
>> 
>> I have a feeling what I'm doing is sacrilege to most of you, but, for proper 
>> context, I got the bike for $20 total. Yes, $20... total. The reason I 
>> picked this bike from all others in that 15 minutes of classifies shopping 
>> is because... it was $20 total. It could have been any model or style of any 
>> bike, I'd never heard of or been able to identify a Honda from a Harley 
>> without reading the nameplate. I'm not a bike (or car) fan, I just had an 
>> idea "I want to convert an old bike with a blown motor into an electric 
>> bike" and then looked, and then found one being parted out. Jumped right in. 
>> That said, I do love how it looks and feels.
>> 
>> The former owner tried to fix it up as a project bike but is old and retired 
>> and has 3 other bikes and just wanted it gone, so he'd already started 
>> parting it out. Exhaust and some other bits were already gone. So, please 
>> don't bite my head off, I've already rescued it and I haven't a hope of 
>> diagnosing or reassembling the motor. I can barely identify and count which 
>> parts are cylinders.
>> 
>> I figured this is probably, if nothing else, different than what many of you 
>> have seen before. So, hopefully I can trade progress pics for advice. I'm 
>> pretty clueless.
>> 
>> My first question, so I can start to plan for a motor and batteries.. Any 
>> idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM ratio, or, 
>> anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the shaft? (I'll 
>> probably throw away the motor and tranny and couple directly to the output 
>> shaft if the numbers ballpark correctly. Electric motors have bottomless 
>> torque, electric car conversions are usually started and left in 3rd gear). 
>> If I have to keep the tranny, I imagine it's going to be a hell of a time 
>> with a sawzall to cut off the motor side of things and find some way to 
>> interface with however the motor spinning bits turn the transmission 
>> spinning bits.
>> 
>> Here she is/was:
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[geo-hawk allan]

the bars you got with it, do not look anything like those on my 
700s...evidently PO that had yours changed them...
The tail light sensor, is there to let folks know when you apply the brake 
& are braking...that mounting bracket you had in the one photo is where the 
end of the cable goes

On Thursday, July 6, 2017 at 5:45:59 AM UTC-4, mattsawe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I bought my first motorbike the other day, a 750s with a partially 
> disassembled (and probably broken?) motor. 
>
> I am a complete novice. I don't have a bike license yet, I've never even 
> sat on a motorbike before. Engines are black magic to me except the barest 
> basics. For example, I didn't even known until after I'd bought it that the 
> model numbers for bikes denote their CC displacement. Like I said, novice. 
> Electrical things I understand better.
>
> Some have pointed out that it is quite big for a beginner bike, and quite 
> large for an electrical conversion. Oh well.
>
> I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap donor bike to convert to 
> electrical on the cheap (junk forklift or golf kart parts) for light 
> commuting. But mostly, for a project.
>
> I have a feeling what I'm doing is sacrilege to most of you, but, for 
> proper context, I got the bike for $20 total. Yes, $20... total. The reason 
> I picked this bike from all others in that 15 minutes of classifies 
> shopping is because... *it was $20 total*. It could have been any model 
> or style of any bike, I'd never heard of or been able to identify a Honda 
> from a Harley without reading the nameplate. I'm not a bike (or car) fan, I 
> just had an idea "I want to convert an old bike with a blown motor into an 
> electric bike" and then looked, and then found one being parted out. Jumped 
> right in. That said, I do love how it looks and feels.
>
> The former owner tried to fix it up as a project bike but is old and 
> retired and has 3 other bikes and just wanted it gone, so he'd already 
> started parting it out. Exhaust and some other bits were already gone. So, 
> please don't bite my head off, I've already rescued it and I haven't a hope 
> of diagnosing or reassembling the motor. I can barely identify and count 
> which parts are cylinders.
>
> I figured this is probably, if nothing else, different than what many of 
> you have seen before. So, hopefully I can trade progress pics for advice. 
> I'm pretty clueless.
>
> My first question, so I can start to plan for a motor and batteries.. Any 
> idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM ratio, or, 
> anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the shaft? (I'll 
> probably throw away the motor and tranny and couple directly to the output 
> shaft if the numbers ballpark correctly. Electric motors have bottomless 
> torque, electric car conversions are usually started and left in 3rd gear). 
> If I have to keep the tranny, I imagine it's going to be a hell of a time 
> with a sawzall to cut off the motor side of things and find some way to 
> interface with however the motor spinning bits turn the transmission 
> spinning bits.
>
> Here she is/was:
>
>
> 
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[geo-hawk allan]

figured the photos would definitely help...look forward to seeing how she 
turns out for you ...

On Saturday, September 9, 2017 at 5:13:54 PM UTC-4, Matt Awesome wrote:
>
> > hi matt, looking at my bike here now and you're correct as far as the 
> mystery piece, the flared section in the center of it is where the main 
> wiring harness sets between that bracket an the horn brackets mounting 
> plate...took some photos as best I could of mine 
>
> Ahh, I haven't touched the wiring harness yet. Pics were very helpful, 
> that ended up being my best guess last night after trying all 50 different 
> orientations and combinations.
>
> > piece on the left is to hold the rear brake line in place where the 
> spring comes up and connects to it from below
>
> Weird, I would not have suspected that. The rear swingarm was about the 
> only thing left assembled when I bought it. The brake is still on there, 
> I'll have to check whether it's outright missing that piece.
>
> > the piece on the right looks to be the plate below the engine to protect 
> I think an oil line, right in front of the oil drain bolt...
>
> Good to know, into the junk bin.
>
> > fork sticks above by approximately 3/8th inch on mine
>
> Good to have confirmed that it's not utterly abnormal to have them 
> somewhere other than maxed out.
>
> > Speedo cable holder (plastic) snaps into the hole in front fender (left 
> side)
>
> I definitely don't have and haven't seen a piece that looks like that, so, 
> must not be something he kept. I'll have to fabricate my own.
>
> Thanks for the clear pictures, worth a thousand words.
>
> ...
>
> > Yes, you have to be missing something Matt. I still suspect wrong handle 
> bars
>
> I'm almost certain they're original, and, the bike was assembled when the 
> previous owner bought it to restore it, so, I'm almost certain that that 
> brake line and that handlebar were once connected.
>
> My handlebars are definitely bent. I think the bike fell on its right side 
> and bent them back and upward a bit. I can't see it being a whole inch, 
> but, maybe combined with shrugging up on the forks a bit I'll be okay.
>
> Plan B is, I don't need the clutch line and it's plenty long. Cut it and 
> put a new banjo on it, or, use a brakeline repair kit to mend the end banjo 
> to the proper position on the hardline. I just wanna ride the damned thing 
> around the parking lot for a confidence boost before I go spending more 
> money on it.
>
> ...
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWWznGdJADg <-- Got the throttle hooked 
> up to the forklift's foot pedal. Temporary, but, I just wanted to twist the 
> throttle and watch it spin.
>
> Doesn't actually spin as well as it used to, I think I got my alignment a 
> little off when I fabbed the brackets. I'll have to percussively tune it 
> with the sledgehammer. Also the throttle is cutting out often, something 
> wonky with the controller, might've hooked it up backwards or something, it 
> basically required 24v and before it was happy to at least struggle with 
> 12v.
>
> Silly thing has an acceleration limiter so you can't accelerate too hard. 
> Will have to see how it does with the tire down.
>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> hi matt, looking at my bike here now and you're correct as far as the
mystery piece, the flared section in the center of it is where the main
wiring harness sets between that bracket an the horn brackets mounting
plate...took some photos as best I could of mine

Ahh, I haven't touched the wiring harness yet. Pics were very helpful, that
ended up being my best guess last night after trying all 50 different
orientations and combinations.

> piece on the left is to hold the rear brake line in place where the
spring comes up and connects to it from below

Weird, I would not have suspected that. The rear swingarm was about the
only thing left assembled when I bought it. The brake is still on there,
I'll have to check whether it's outright missing that piece.

> the piece on the right looks to be the plate below the engine to protect
I think an oil line, right in front of the oil drain bolt...

Good to know, into the junk bin.

> fork sticks above by approximately 3/8th inch on mine

Good to have confirmed that it's not utterly abnormal to have them
somewhere other than maxed out.

> Speedo cable holder (plastic) snaps into the hole in front fender (left
side)

I definitely don't have and haven't seen a piece that looks like that, so,
must not be something he kept. I'll have to fabricate my own.

Thanks for the clear pictures, worth a thousand words.

...

> Yes, you have to be missing something Matt. I still suspect wrong handle
bars

I'm almost certain they're original, and, the bike was assembled when the
previous owner bought it to restore it, so, I'm almost certain that that
brake line and that handlebar were once connected.

My handlebars are definitely bent. I think the bike fell on its right side
and bent them back and upward a bit. I can't see it being a whole inch,
but, maybe combined with shrugging up on the forks a bit I'll be okay.

Plan B is, I don't need the clutch line and it's plenty long. Cut it and
put a new banjo on it, or, use a brakeline repair kit to mend the end banjo
to the proper position on the hardline. I just wanna ride the damned thing
around the parking lot for a confidence boost before I go spending more
money on it.

...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWWznGdJADg <-- Got the throttle hooked up
to the forklift's foot pedal. Temporary, but, I just wanted to twist the
throttle and watch it spin.

Doesn't actually spin as well as it used to, I think I got my alignment a
little off when I fabbed the brackets. I'll have to percussively tune it
with the sledgehammer. Also the throttle is cutting out often, something
wonky with the controller, might've hooked it up backwards or something, it
basically required 24v and before it was happy to at least struggle with
12v.

Silly thing has an acceleration limiter so you can't accelerate too hard.
Will have to see how it does with the tire down.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

Yes, you have to be missing something Matt. I still suspect wrong handle
bars

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 12:34 AM Graham Rogers 
wrote:

>
> Show us pics of your right hand controls., the brake reservoir and hose
> and banjo bolt. The brake line should drop downward immediately from the
> reservoir, not out horizontal.
>
> On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 12:04 AM Matt Awesome 
> wrote:
>
>> > Your forks look to be in the right position, flush with the top of the
>> > opening
>>
>> Crap. That was my best guess to fix it.
>>
>> > Have you tried running the top hose in front of the fork?
>>
>> Yeah, same difference.
>>
>> If it was too long, not a big deal, cut it and it's only one bolt,
>> but, ugh, I don't want to spend the money on two new banjos and hose.
>> The whole point of the build is to be cheap, not nice :p
>>
>> Maybe I'm missing something, I'm going to have another look.
>>
>> --
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>

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

Show us pics of your right hand controls., the brake reservoir and hose and
banjo bolt. The brake line should drop downward immediately from the
reservoir, not out horizontal.

On Sat, Sep 9, 2017 at 12:04 AM Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> > Your forks look to be in the right position, flush with the top of the
> > opening
>
> Crap. That was my best guess to fix it.
>
> > Have you tried running the top hose in front of the fork?
>
> Yeah, same difference.
>
> If it was too long, not a big deal, cut it and it's only one bolt,
> but, ugh, I don't want to spend the money on two new banjos and hose.
> The whole point of the build is to be cheap, not nice :p
>
> Maybe I'm missing something, I'm going to have another look.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> Your forks look to be in the right position, flush with the top of the
> opening

Crap. That was my best guess to fix it.

> Have you tried running the top hose in front of the fork?

Yeah, same difference.

If it was too long, not a big deal, cut it and it's only one bolt,
but, ugh, I don't want to spend the money on two new banjos and hose.
The whole point of the build is to be cheap, not nice :p

Maybe I'm missing something, I'm going to have another look.

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Richard Potter]

I measure mine tonight but I do not have e-mail at home
Have you tried running the top hose in front of the fork?

From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Graham Rogers
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2017 3:08 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion


Your forks look to be in the right position, flush with the top of the opening
On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 6:01 PM Matt Awesome 
<mattsawesomest...@gmail.com<mailto:mattsawesomest...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Are the bleeders on the top of your calipers?
> If not they are upside down

Good guess, but no, calipers are on correctly.

That would only affect the lower lines. It's the upper line that's too short.

I don't think it's coincidence that the lower is an inch too long, and
the upper an inch too short. Hence why I'm thinking the fork-to-frame
is clamped at the wrong height, but I don't want to go messing with
streeting/suspension geometry if that doesn't match the rest of you.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

Your forks look to be in the right position, flush with the top of the
opening
On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 6:01 PM Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> > Are the bleeders on the top of your calipers?
> > If not they are upside down
>
> Good guess, but no, calipers are on correctly.
>
> That would only affect the lower lines. It's the upper line that's too
> short.
>
> I don't think it's coincidence that the lower is an inch too long, and
> the upper an inch too short. Hence why I'm thinking the fork-to-frame
> is clamped at the wrong height, but I don't want to go messing with
> streeting/suspension geometry if that doesn't match the rest of you.
>
> --
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> Are the bleeders on the top of your calipers?
> If not they are upside down

Good guess, but no, calipers are on correctly.

That would only affect the lower lines. It's the upper line that's too short.

I don't think it's coincidence that the lower is an inch too long, and
the upper an inch too short. Hence why I'm thinking the fork-to-frame
is clamped at the wrong height, but I don't want to go messing with
streeting/suspension geometry if that doesn't match the rest of you.

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Richard Potter]

Are the bleeders on the top of your calipers?
If not they are upside down


From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Matt Awesome
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2017 2:27 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

> Matt, do you have the original handlebars on the bike? From what I can see, 
> it doesn't look like it. Take a pic so we can see.
As far as I know they are, he didn't modify anything else.
It's the brake line that was on the bike when he took it apart, so, makes sense 
it should go back where it was. Unless he bought a new one and didn't get 
around to testing it. But, I doubt it, since it's a little bit bent (not enough 
to account for an inch worth of difference though).
Do my fork measurements seem off-base with anyone else's? I'll probably adjust 
them down to make it fit, rather than dump another $40 on another brake line.
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> Matt, do you have the original handlebars on the bike? From what I can
see, it doesn't look like it. Take a pic so we can see.

As far as I know they are, he didn't modify anything else.

It's the brake line that was on the bike when he took it apart, so, makes
sense it should go back where it was. Unless he bought a new one and didn't
get around to testing it. But, I doubt it, since it's a little bit bent
(not enough to account for an inch worth of difference though).

Do my fork measurements seem off-base with anyone else's? I'll probably
adjust them down to make it fit, rather than dump another $40 on another
brake line.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

Ok

On Sat, Sep 2, 2017 at 2:14 PM Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> I'll message you off-list so we don't clutter everyone's inboxes.
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

I'll message you off-list so we don't clutter everyone's inboxes.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

I have found another bracket ut it may be the same side. Yes I found a
headlight lens and dash (instrument panel?) panel I think. Do you have the
white plastic clips that go on the headlight lens, and the 6 inch cable?
Address?

 Matt, any response to the mounting bracket measurements?

>
> Nope, none yet.
>
> > I have boxes of 700S parts and rummaging through them found the bracket
> that has the 6 inch retaining cable attached. I will send it to you.
>
> Ahh, that's what that cable is. Saw it in the service manual, and I
> see the clip for it on the left side, makes sense now.
>
> That's very kind of you. This community is so supportive :). Don't
> suppose you have a spare headlight lens you'd want to sell me? Or the
> clear plastic from the dash? Anything I could send you back?
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> Matt, any response to the mounting bracket measurements?

Nope, none yet.

> I have boxes of 700S parts and rummaging through them found the bracket that 
> has the 6 inch retaining cable attached. I will send it to you.

Ahh, that's what that cable is. Saw it in the service manual, and I
see the clip for it on the left side, makes sense now.

That's very kind of you. This community is so supportive :). Don't
suppose you have a spare headlight lens you'd want to sell me? Or the
clear plastic from the dash? Anything I could send you back?

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Graham Rogers]

Matt, any response to the mounting bracket measurements? I have boxes of
700S parts and rummaging through them found the bracket that has the 6 inch
retaining cable attached. I will send it to you. This afternoon I will go
through the boxes and see if I can find the other one. I need to sort this
stuff. It all came from a fellow Nighthawk owner I bought my Nighthawk
from. I have boxes of parts, not the plastics or engine but most other
parts, Graham

 some more documenting, but in the meantime, if anyone might be able to do
me a favor

>
> Kyle traded me for his front cowling. The guy who bought the cowling off
> my bike before I bought the carcass took the mounting brackets for the
> cowling. Took me forever to figure out how it's supposed to mount, since
> the bracket it mounts to has bolts going in 90 degrees from where the
> cowling bolts are. The service manual doesn't really show that in the
> assembly blowout.
>
> Found an interior shot of someone else's cowling for reference...
>
>
> ​
> If anyone would mind taking those measurements for me, I'd appreciate it
> so I can fabricate my own brackets from some scrap steel.
>
> A - If you square up along the center lines of the two mounting bolts, how
> far between the second one and the 90 degree bend?
>
> B - How long is the bend?
>
> C - If you square up along the center lines of the two mounting bolts, how
> far is the offset to the center of the 90-degree bolt?
>
> Bonus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nUDLOZH9Ys
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

Doing some more documenting, but in the meantime, if anyone might be able
to do me a favor

Kyle traded me for his front cowling. The guy who bought the cowling off my
bike before I bought the carcass took the mounting brackets for the
cowling. Took me forever to figure out how it's supposed to mount, since
the bracket it mounts to has bolts going in 90 degrees from where the
cowling bolts are. The service manual doesn't really show that in the
assembly blowout.

Found an interior shot of someone else's cowling for reference...


​
If anyone would mind taking those measurements for me, I'd appreciate it so
I can fabricate my own brackets from some scrap steel.

A - If you square up along the center lines of the two mounting bolts, how
far between the second one and the 90 degree bend?

B - How long is the bend?

C - If you square up along the center lines of the two mounting bolts, how
far is the offset to the center of the 90-degree bolt?

Bonus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6nUDLOZH9Ys

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kyle Munz]

You can find out compatibility by looking up the part numbers on a site
like Partzilla.
The part# for the 700S headlight is 33120-MJ1-670, so you you have to find
one on another bike with the same center code "MJ1". Now you can search the
other similar models on Partzilla to find one that uses that same center
code. The head light for the Interceptor doesn't, and Partzilla only lists
that part as being used on the 84-86 CB700SC, but others may fit with some
persuasion.


-Kyle

On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 4:24 PM, Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> > When I buy insurance all they ask for is the VIN, no questions about the
> motor or any modifications, just give them the VIN and $60 gets me full
> coverage. Maybe that's a US vs CA thing.the same umbrella.
>
> You get insurance for $60? *scowls at you all south of the border*
>
> So, you get to ride year-round, putting on 4x the miles we do... and
> insurance costs 10% of what ours does.
>
> > Oh, and you're welcome, hopefully that busted fairing helps you out
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Does anyone happen to know whether the headlight lens (the rectangular
> thing that isn't the actual filament) for the CB700 matches the headlight
> for the VF700 (Interceptor vs. Nighthawk) from those early 80s models?
> Headlight lenses for the Interceptors are like, 1/4 the price and available
> everywhere.
>
>
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> When I buy insurance all they ask for is the VIN, no questions about the
motor or any modifications, just give them the VIN and $60 gets me full
coverage. Maybe that's a US vs CA thing.the same umbrella.

You get insurance for $60? *scowls at you all south of the border*

So, you get to ride year-round, putting on 4x the miles we do... and
insurance costs 10% of what ours does.

> Oh, and you're welcome, hopefully that busted fairing helps you out

Thanks again.

Does anyone happen to know whether the headlight lens (the rectangular
thing that isn't the actual filament) for the CB700 matches the headlight
for the VF700 (Interceptor vs. Nighthawk) from those early 80s models?
Headlight lenses for the Interceptors are like, 1/4 the price and available
everywhere.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Kyle Munz]

When I buy insurance all they ask for is the VIN, no questions about the
motor or any modifications, just give them the VIN and $60 gets me full
coverage. Maybe that's a US vs CA thing.

Oh, and you're welcome, hopefully that busted fairing helps you out 


-Kyle

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 6:55 PM, Matt Awesome 
wrote:

> No new pics. Mostly a week of paperwork and phone calls. Fabbed some new
> motor mounts. Did some embarrassing welding, first time I've welded in 5
> years (and I've welded maybe an hour total).
>
> Got the alignment sorted pretty good I think, doesn't clunk at all and I
> cranked it as fast as it'd go on 12v without issues. It's so quiet, even
> for an electric motor. It's less noisy than a bicycle.
>
> One of you (haven't asked if it's okay to say who) was kind enough to give
> me a wrecked front fender thing I was missing. In exchange I'm sending back
> the coils and the aluminum Honda coverplates. It's cracked in half but I
> can probably do some fiberglass repair or, at the very least, use it as a
> guide to fab my own from sheet metal. So, thanks a bunch to that member :),
>
> 3 questions bike-wise, if anyone has knowledge:
>
> I need:
> - A rectangular headlight lens. And the headlight... bulb I'll just buy,
> but what about the lens? I'm not even peripherally aware of what the usual
> shopping places are for bike parts. Do I buy a used original? Is there a
> replica supply place? Cheap LED ones from China? Make one from plastic? DOT
> requirements? Plan A is to drop $20+shipping off Ebay.
>
> - Brake lines looks like I could go to any auto shop, but, is there a
> better place to go to get that done? It's looking like it'll be $80 for the
> pair. Old ones from Ebay for $40-ish and just buy new one-time washers for
> the banjos.
>
> - Tires. I could just go to a store, but is there a cheaper/better place
> to go buy tires? Particular online stores you'd recommend? I hear people
> derogatorily refer to how someone put on "cheapest chinese tire they could
> find" and I'm thinking "Aha! A cheap chinese tire, sounds perfect, where do
> I get one of those?"
>
> ...
>
> Insurance is a bit of a struggle. I was warned, but I kind of brushed it
> off until now. Reasons I can't be insured various places:
> - Not off the shelf.
> - Electric? Sorry.
> - 30+ years old? Doesn't matter the value, no.
> - Did any work on it yourself? No.
>
> Unintuitively, I get better luck with places that don't normally do bike
> insurance, but have some anyway just so their customers with car/home/etc
> insurance can be under the same umbrella. They don't have as many questions
> that rule me out, so I've made it farther into the process that way.
>
> The only one I've found who'll insure (so far, and they may still turn me
> down when they ask more questions) insists on comprehensive, not just
> liability, for $500/year. Which, for how short the Canadian riding season
> is, probably wouldn't even save me anything on gas to switch over for the
> commute. I mean, I'll do it anyways so that I can ride, but, it's not fun.
>
> One broker suggested I get a letter from the manufacturer describing the
> conversion and then call back. Honda wouldn't go near that, if it's not in
> a book they can look up they will not offer an opinion, even a negative
> opinion to say "Do not alter the following components" just so the
> insurance company had something to narrow it to.
>
> Some hundreds of guys have done conversions, makes me wonder how they're
> getting insurance. Maybe existing policies and brokers wanting to keep
> customers?
>
> There's a dangerous chicken and egg thing. Many places say "Tell us what
> you've done and we'll tell you whether we'll insure and what the rates will
> be", and I'm like "No, what I do depends on whether you'll insure it and
> what the rates would be. I don't want to do anything I can't take back."
> Back and forth, they want me to do something that someone else requires me
> to have insurance before they can give me that step. Bit of a pain.
>
> ...
>
> Good news on registration:
> - it is not (reported as? :P) stolen, nice to have that confirmed.
> - it is not from out of province (requiring a $150 "out of province
> inspection" where shops do their best to find everything wrong because you
> have to pay for another inspection unless you also hire them to do the
> work).
> - it does not have any registration flags (salvage from a crash, never
> repair due to critical damage, etc).
>
> So, reg wise, $50 for a plate and I'm good. If I change anything (moped to
> motorcycle, power, whatever), $9 to modify the title. Cheap cheap.
>
> --
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> "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!" group.
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> Visit 

Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

No new pics. Mostly a week of paperwork and phone calls. Fabbed some new
motor mounts. Did some embarrassing welding, first time I've welded in 5
years (and I've welded maybe an hour total).

Got the alignment sorted pretty good I think, doesn't clunk at all and I
cranked it as fast as it'd go on 12v without issues. It's so quiet, even
for an electric motor. It's less noisy than a bicycle.

One of you (haven't asked if it's okay to say who) was kind enough to give
me a wrecked front fender thing I was missing. In exchange I'm sending back
the coils and the aluminum Honda coverplates. It's cracked in half but I
can probably do some fiberglass repair or, at the very least, use it as a
guide to fab my own from sheet metal. So, thanks a bunch to that member :),

3 questions bike-wise, if anyone has knowledge:

I need:
- A rectangular headlight lens. And the headlight... bulb I'll just buy,
but what about the lens? I'm not even peripherally aware of what the usual
shopping places are for bike parts. Do I buy a used original? Is there a
replica supply place? Cheap LED ones from China? Make one from plastic? DOT
requirements? Plan A is to drop $20+shipping off Ebay.

- Brake lines looks like I could go to any auto shop, but, is there a
better place to go to get that done? It's looking like it'll be $80 for the
pair. Old ones from Ebay for $40-ish and just buy new one-time washers for
the banjos.

- Tires. I could just go to a store, but is there a cheaper/better place to
go buy tires? Particular online stores you'd recommend? I hear people
derogatorily refer to how someone put on "cheapest chinese tire they could
find" and I'm thinking "Aha! A cheap chinese tire, sounds perfect, where do
I get one of those?"

...

Insurance is a bit of a struggle. I was warned, but I kind of brushed it
off until now. Reasons I can't be insured various places:
- Not off the shelf.
- Electric? Sorry.
- 30+ years old? Doesn't matter the value, no.
- Did any work on it yourself? No.

Unintuitively, I get better luck with places that don't normally do bike
insurance, but have some anyway just so their customers with car/home/etc
insurance can be under the same umbrella. They don't have as many questions
that rule me out, so I've made it farther into the process that way.

The only one I've found who'll insure (so far, and they may still turn me
down when they ask more questions) insists on comprehensive, not just
liability, for $500/year. Which, for how short the Canadian riding season
is, probably wouldn't even save me anything on gas to switch over for the
commute. I mean, I'll do it anyways so that I can ride, but, it's not fun.

One broker suggested I get a letter from the manufacturer describing the
conversion and then call back. Honda wouldn't go near that, if it's not in
a book they can look up they will not offer an opinion, even a negative
opinion to say "Do not alter the following components" just so the
insurance company had something to narrow it to.

Some hundreds of guys have done conversions, makes me wonder how they're
getting insurance. Maybe existing policies and brokers wanting to keep
customers?

There's a dangerous chicken and egg thing. Many places say "Tell us what
you've done and we'll tell you whether we'll insure and what the rates will
be", and I'm like "No, what I do depends on whether you'll insure it and
what the rates would be. I don't want to do anything I can't take back."
Back and forth, they want me to do something that someone else requires me
to have insurance before they can give me that step. Bit of a pain.

...

Good news on registration:
- it is not (reported as? :P) stolen, nice to have that confirmed.
- it is not from out of province (requiring a $150 "out of province
inspection" where shops do their best to find everything wrong because you
have to pay for another inspection unless you also hire them to do the
work).
- it does not have any registration flags (salvage from a crash, never
repair due to critical damage, etc).

So, reg wise, $50 for a plate and I'm good. If I change anything (moped to
motorcycle, power, whatever), $9 to modify the title. Cheap cheap.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

Well, I half-assed the alignment. Tranny mount points were in the way so I
have to go at it with an angle grinder to even test fit it, and I didn't
have one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9xwZYSkW70 <-- It spins, however clunkily.
Speed controller ain't happy soft starting with the u-joint elbowed either.

But, the motor which I will be using, is spinning the driveshaft assembly
as I'll be using it. Milestones and all.

Breaker on the battery charger tripped after about 5 seconds, as it does.

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Tommy Hill]

You are indeed a determined shade tree mechanic!

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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Matt Awesome]

> Have you thought about a swivel socket. May be able to find right ODs

No, I definitely don't want a pair of U-joints in there, and I don't want
any more trouble mating to the driveshaft.

I saw a guy once who used a swivel socket and just welded the back end of
one to his driveshaft, not caring about the splines and such. But the
U-joint is actually fairly beefy and obviously designed for the load.
http://www.evalbum.com/2057 <-- Pics you can click along the right.

I mean, if that's what I want to do, I could just weld up any shaft to any
other shaft. Which I'm also tempted to do. But it's a drive component and
I'm a crappy welder, so I worry about it being brittle (hardened shaft) and
shattering.

Either way I have to machine or weld something.

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RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Richard Potter]

Have you thought about a swivel socket
May be able to find right ODs

From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Matt Awesome
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2017 1:52 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

Well, kinda stumped.

Wishing I had access to my old shop with a metal lathe, tormach, etc.

I need to mate the motor to the U-Joint. 2 choices:

1 - Use the tranny output to the U-joint, and make the other end match the 
motor.

All I have to do is cut the shaft into a slot. Easy. But I can't get the damned 
hypoid gear off. I don't have a heedruuluk press anymore. And I need to shorten 
it, the motor barely fits in the frame.

2 - Use the motor output, make the other end match the U-joint.

It's a lot harder to cut splines, but the motor side is all done. Sadly the 
pump shaft is too small for the U-joint. The whole housing also needs to be cut.


I can't get Option #1 to work, so, here's my plan for Option #2:

[cid:image001.jpg@01D30C63.2C7E80E0]
​
- Chop away half the depth of the pump housing, leaving only the flange and 
bearing housing for the shaft that mates to the motor. Hacksaw/grinder.

- Take the old pump thing (vane carrier?) that splines onto the pump shaft, 
grind it down to the size of the tranny shaft (might just use the motor as its 
own lathe)... then try to re-create the U-Joint splines with a dremel. So, all 
this vane carrier does is embiggen the motor shaft.

- Extend the interior motor shaft splines closer to the motor with a dremel, so 
I can shorten things up by about an inch.

It's really ghetto, but I've had it stewing for a couple weeks and it's the 
best I can come up with.
Anyone see an easier way?
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Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[Tommy Hill]

Yes.  Those tires are toast.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[ChrisV]

"Any idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM 
ratio, or, anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the 
shaft?"

Yes, according to the link below, the final drive gear ratio is 3.40.  The 
OEM rear tire diameter should be roughly 25" (from a different site). 
 Doing a whole bunch of basic math on roll-out with appropriate unit 
conversions, I'm coming up with a shaft speed of roughly 2744 rpm at 60mph.

Somebody check my math, please.

http://www.motorera.com/honda/h0700/night700.htm 

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[ChrisV]

"Any idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM 
ratio, or, anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the 
shaft?"

Yes, according to the link below, the final drive gear ratio is 3.40.  The 
OEM rear tire diameter should be roughly 25" (from a different site). 
 Doing a whole bunch of basic math on roll-out with appropriate unit 
conversions, I'm coming up with a shaft speed of roughly 2744 rpm at 60mph.

Somebody check my math, please.

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[ChrisV]

"Any idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM 
ratio, or, anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the 
shaft?"

Yes, according to the link below, the final drive gear ratio is 3.40.  The 
OEM rear tire diameter should be roughly 25" (from a different site). 
 Doing a whole bunch of basic math on roll-out with appropriate unit 
conversions, I'm coming up with a shaft speed of roughly 2744 rpm at 60mph.

Somebody check my math, please.

http://www.motorera.com/honda/h0700/night700.htm 

On Thursday, July 6, 2017 at 4:45:59 AM UTC-5, mattsawe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I bought my first motorbike the other day, a 750s with a partially 
> disassembled (and probably broken?) motor. 
>
> I am a complete novice. I don't have a bike license yet, I've never even 
> sat on a motorbike before. Engines are black magic to me except the barest 
> basics. For example, I didn't even known until after I'd bought it that the 
> model numbers for bikes denote their CC displacement. Like I said, novice. 
> Electrical things I understand better.
>
> Some have pointed out that it is quite big for a beginner bike, and quite 
> large for an electrical conversion. Oh well.
>
> I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap donor bike to convert to 
> electrical on the cheap (junk forklift or golf kart parts) for light 
> commuting. But mostly, for a project.
>
> I have a feeling what I'm doing is sacrilege to most of you, but, for 
> proper context, I got the bike for $20 total. Yes, $20... total. The reason 
> I picked this bike from all others in that 15 minutes of classifies 
> shopping is because... *it was $20 total*. It could have been any model 
> or style of any bike, I'd never heard of or been able to identify a Honda 
> from a Harley without reading the nameplate. I'm not a bike (or car) fan, I 
> just had an idea "I want to convert an old bike with a blown motor into an 
> electric bike" and then looked, and then found one being parted out. Jumped 
> right in. That said, I do love how it looks and feels.
>
> The former owner tried to fix it up as a project bike but is old and 
> retired and has 3 other bikes and just wanted it gone, so he'd already 
> started parting it out. Exhaust and some other bits were already gone. So, 
> please don't bite my head off, I've already rescued it and I haven't a hope 
> of diagnosing or reassembling the motor. I can barely identify and count 
> which parts are cylinders.
>
> I figured this is probably, if nothing else, different than what many of 
> you have seen before. So, hopefully I can trade progress pics for advice. 
> I'm pretty clueless.
>
> My first question, so I can start to plan for a motor and batteries.. Any 
> idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM ratio, or, 
> anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the shaft? (I'll 
> probably throw away the motor and tranny and couple directly to the output 
> shaft if the numbers ballpark correctly. Electric motors have bottomless 
> torque, electric car conversions are usually started and left in 3rd gear). 
> If I have to keep the tranny, I imagine it's going to be a hell of a time 
> with a sawzall to cut off the motor side of things and find some way to 
> interface with however the motor spinning bits turn the transmission 
> spinning bits.
>
> Here she is/was:
>
>
> 
>

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[Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 1985 Nighthawk 750S Electrical Conversion

[ChrisV]

I'm interested in parts you don't need.  I have a blue '84.  If your tank 
happenned to have no dents or holes, and if the side fairings are in good 
shape, and if you have the battery holder bracket, I need all of those 
parts.  I'm sure I could come up with a longer list of things missing or 
broken or in poor shape on my bike...  Interested in selling any of those 
parts?

Chris

On Thursday, July 6, 2017 at 4:45:59 AM UTC-5, mattsawe...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I bought my first motorbike the other day, a 750s with a partially 
> disassembled (and probably broken?) motor. 
>
> I am a complete novice. I don't have a bike license yet, I've never even 
> sat on a motorbike before. Engines are black magic to me except the barest 
> basics. For example, I didn't even known until after I'd bought it that the 
> model numbers for bikes denote their CC displacement. Like I said, novice. 
> Electrical things I understand better.
>
> Some have pointed out that it is quite big for a beginner bike, and quite 
> large for an electrical conversion. Oh well.
>
> I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap donor bike to convert to 
> electrical on the cheap (junk forklift or golf kart parts) for light 
> commuting. But mostly, for a project.
>
> I have a feeling what I'm doing is sacrilege to most of you, but, for 
> proper context, I got the bike for $20 total. Yes, $20... total. The reason 
> I picked this bike from all others in that 15 minutes of classifies 
> shopping is because... *it was $20 total*. It could have been any model 
> or style of any bike, I'd never heard of or been able to identify a Honda 
> from a Harley without reading the nameplate. I'm not a bike (or car) fan, I 
> just had an idea "I want to convert an old bike with a blown motor into an 
> electric bike" and then looked, and then found one being parted out. Jumped 
> right in. That said, I do love how it looks and feels.
>
> The former owner tried to fix it up as a project bike but is old and 
> retired and has 3 other bikes and just wanted it gone, so he'd already 
> started parting it out. Exhaust and some other bits were already gone. So, 
> please don't bite my head off, I've already rescued it and I haven't a hope 
> of diagnosing or reassembling the motor. I can barely identify and count 
> which parts are cylinders.
>
> I figured this is probably, if nothing else, different than what many of 
> you have seen before. So, hopefully I can trade progress pics for advice. 
> I'm pretty clueless.
>
> My first question, so I can start to plan for a motor and batteries.. Any 
> idea how fast the tranny output range is, or the shaft:wheel RPM ratio, or, 
> anything for me to figure out the speed I'll need to turn the shaft? (I'll 
> probably throw away the motor and tranny and couple directly to the output 
> shaft if the numbers ballpark correctly. Electric motors have bottomless 
> torque, electric car conversions are usually started and left in 3rd gear). 
> If I have to keep the tranny, I imagine it's going to be a hell of a time 
> with a sawzall to cut off the motor side of things and find some way to 
> interface with however the motor spinning bits turn the transmission 
> spinning bits.
>
> Here she is/was:
>
>
> 
>

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