Metin,
I don't mean to be argumentative, just curious. Could you explain how you
know that using Marathons would cost you at least an hour in a 600K ride?
regards
Ted
On Friday, November 20, 2015 at 9:53:54 PM UTC-8, Metin Uz wrote:
>
> Here is why I don't use Marathons: In a 600
If I recall correctly, Grant has suggested that
1) the cost of tubes is such a small fraction of the total cost of a
frame that it doesn't make any sense to try and save money there.
2) there is a lot more to a bike than the particular tubes it is made out
of, and that getting all wrapped
UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> Ted,
>
> Did you make it up to Riv HQ to try the Joe? Anything to report?
>
>
>
> On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 9:21:39 AM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>>
>> Thinking of heading up there today myself. Given the blug and presale
>> photos
Thinking of heading up there today myself. Given the blug and presale
photos I assume they have at least one prototype JA there, though I don't
think the prototypes have the fork crown and long chainstays that the
production ones will have.
On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 8:09:39 AM UTC-8,
John,
I think that Appaloosa would be a great Bombadil stand in to complement
your Hillborne as AHH stand in.
The Appaloosa may even fit fatter tires than the first generation Bombadil.
So Sam and Joe v.s. Homer and Bombadil could be all the function at a much
lower cost. Why just dream of the
regarding sloping top tubes,
Doesn't anybody else like to rest their backside against the top tube while
the group is chatting before or after a ride?
Before the carbon craze it seemed like this was a common thing, you set the
bike cross wise behind you, tip it a bit, and lean your but back
live just ~30min
south don't you).
ted
On Friday, November 13, 2015 at 11:53:24 AM UTC-8, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> The thing that has always drawn me to the Bombadil is the 650b wheelset.
> For road riding, I love 700c but when riding in the dirt, I've found
> 700c/29 to be a bit clumsy
I have a 56 Homer I bought through this list. As others have said the AHH
is a really lovely bike. Whether or not its what you are looking for may
depend on what you mean when you say "springy" or "responsive flexible
tubing". If you are wanting the flex of a standard tube diameter thin wall
Liesl,
Heads up, I don't think mountain brake levers fit on mustache or albastache
bars.
Also, if you want a short tech delux stem I think Bens Cycle in Milwaukee
carries them down to 5cm. The short dirt drop is 8cm and the long one is
10, so a 5cm would get you 3-5cm (abt. 1 or 2 inch)
Will,
I also find the Rodeo tempting. However if you want 38mm and larger tires
with fenders it's not going to have large enough clearances for you. Even
an AHH may be too tight for you, I find ~40mm (Soma GR) with fenders to be
as far as I can go on mine.
When I want to ride something "racy"
I have one of the first run green ones. It was my commuting bike for many years
with lights, fenders, and a big honking saddlebag.
It's served duty on centuries,
club rides, fire roads, my errand bike and last winter was outfitted with
studded snow tires
After this winter she will go to the
http://www.sfrandonneurs.org
Every thing you need to know, and plenty of lead time.
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I did this ride last year. You don't need a rusa # to register and I still
don't have one. I think you do need to register before the day of though. They
make a brevet card for each rider and those are printed before the event. I
don't think they are set up to print them at the event.
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Though you should click the add info button and attach your address, phone,
email, etc.
All per the instructions on the registration page
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Ted
On Friday, August 14, 2015 at 4:33:06 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
After a long summer of many guest and busyness I got out for a two hour
ride this morning. It was humid and I went sans helmet (lets not have an
argument). I rode for an hour into the wind before swinging around
Sounds very vexing, sorry it happened to you. Could you explain in more
detail what the double-legger did to the kickstand plate on your
Hunqapillar?
On Friday, August 14, 2015 at 4:37:58 PM UTC-7, shawn m. wrote:
I sure wish they'd posted that warning about the double-leggers not using
the
Perhaps some frame matching paint could help?
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Regarding shifter alternatives, I suggest you consider trying these mounted
so the shifter is on the inside/underside of the bar
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/shsrtsr.htm
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/shsrtsl.htm
I think I have seen folks do sort of the same set up with the paul thumbies
The right center pull should do it. My AHH is 650 instead of 700 but I ran
SKS 45 longboards over Soma GR tires (~41mm). At first under Silver dual
pivot brakes, and later with a Mafac Raid front brake. With the silvers the
clearance for the front fender was less than I like. With the Raid (and
Not sure, but I suspect Rivendellian + disk braked = oxymoron
On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 11:02:13 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
I'd love one for dirt riding if it could take 70 mm tires, and as long as
it has only a single top tube!. Hell, I could accept, reluctantly, a second
top tube for
It may have been discussed, but I've never seen a picture of a Bombadil
prototype with disc caliper tabs.
e.g.
http://chicogino.blogspot.com/2008/05/rivendell-bombadil-my-two-week-fling.html
On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 10:46:48 AM UTC-7, jpp wrote:
I could be remembering wrong, but I feel like
Pleasanton Ridge Regional Park to be specific. That fire trail leads up to
the west ridge which was added to the park a while back, though I don't
think it's officially open to the public yet (hence the need for gate
jumping). If you go the right way and hop another gate you end up near the
do, you may always wonder if
you shouldn't be riding fatter tires.
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:11:20 PM UTC-7, DS wrote:
Ted - Great advice, those are all points that were making me lean towards
38s originally. Plus I didn't think of the brake thing (they are calipers).
I go back
DS,
I have used 32 mm GB Cypres and ~41 mm Soma GR tires on my 650B AHH.
I will disent from the likely majority opinion and suggest you go with the
38 mm tires.
I found the 32 mm tires to be excellent for all the roads around me, and I
also rode them on local trails and fire roads with no
I think my SimpleOne came with a 107 tange bottom bracket. I am using an
old suntour track crank and changed the bb to a 108 phil so I could easily
get the chain line just right. That's not an issue with normal 8/9 speed
chains, but I am using 1/8th inch chain cog and ring and I had some
Gotta agree with this. As I wrote earlier drilling it out is a when all
else fails last resort. Kai's suggestion to essentially jury rig a proper
puller is definitely worth a try.
On Sunday, March 29, 2015 at 8:46:21 PM UTC-7, Kainalu wrote:
Consensus is definitely important, from the bottom
If all else fails,
remove the wheel pull brake or rack if needed for clear access to wedge from
crown end of steerer,
Flip bike with headset / top of steerer end supported on bench or blocks on
floor,
Run largest drill that won't mess up steerer through wedge, the bolt hole
providing a center
Krups moka brew. Works well, more compact than most self contained counter top
machines. Not cheep, but not super expensive either. If you use it every day
and amortize over years, the price per pot is probably quite reasonable.
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On the back of the seat tube from the left side chain stay to just below the
seat stay. Handle at the top. Handy umbrella clip from bike touring news makes
this easy to set up and secure. Sorry no photo from me but i have seen pics of
bikes with a pump in that location on the blug before.
Also
That's clearly more than 10 lbs. I would have thought the difference in those
two frames was under 3 lbs. Are the builds a lot different?
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Thanks Ann.
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Though I don't really disagree, I do think the case is overstated a bit
here.
I think my stout two top tube Bombadil with nitto mini rack, steel
bullmoose bar, lugged post, b17 saddle and kick stand is only about 5 lbs
heavier than my AHH (which has no rack, no kickstand, no extra stout
The rims were by Araya. I am not sure they are available in the United States
anymore. Fyi, not much wear on rims from breaking as the bike was set up with a
fixed gear.
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Regards
Ted Shwartz
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Grand Randonneur) are probably not making too big of
a mistake, and I joined them.
Nick
On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 11:04:48 PM UTC-5, ted wrote:
Minor update.
This morning I took a little time and got the toe in down to something
approaching the amount I typically find works well
Grab em while you can indeed. It calls them SimpleOne forks, so I presume
these are left overs from the sudden demise of that model shortly after
they became available. So as a corollary, if you have a Quickbeam or
SimleOne and like it at all, hang on to it. They are not likely to be
available
powered and can't stand em, so as usual YMMV.
On Saturday, March 7, 2015 at 7:53:45 AM UTC-8, A. L Young wrote:
On Fri, Mar 6, 2015 at 6:19 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
It's a bit lost in the mists of time, but I think I bought the aero
levers to replace older non aero levers
yea, but that bike goes anywhere.
So about 8 of us are standing at the bottom of welch creek (sf east bay
area) after regrouping. All but one with MCFRBs, me with my AHH.
Somebody suggests going up welch creek before continuing out calaveras. I
say something like, yea go up and come down
I was curious about trying out a mafac raid front brake on my AHH (650b)
and found a pair for a price I thought wasn't too much.
It's still early days yet, but I thought I would offer a few preliminary
observations.
First and last, these are big brakes.
I have seen the reach on these quoted as
at 4:40:40 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
I was curious about trying out a mafac raid front brake on my AHH (650b)
and found a pair for a price I thought wasn't too much.
It's still early days yet, but I thought I would offer a few preliminary
observations.
First and last, these are big brakes.
I
I wouldn't argue against going with components made for each other. I think
you'r on solid ground there.
I also completely agree about wanting to know what you'r likely to get
before having pivots brazed on. That's one reason I was happy to find an
old pair of Raids with the stock arches.
Oh if only we could trade you some BTUs for some H2O.
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not less.
I have done this sort of thing a couple of times to Nitto mini racks to get
them sitting level. Im sort of fussy about that.
good luck
ted
On Sunday, March 1, 2015 at 6:29:44 AM UTC-8, Tom Harrop wrote:
Hi all,
Just finished with a cockpit switch from drops to bosco bars on the daily
right along
the bottle.
ted
On Thursday, February 26, 2015 at 5:46:53 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
The new Iris cages arrived, are installed, and holy smokes! are they
secure and yet easy to access. Snug, rattle free, and interestingly the
steel on steel in and out feels good and isn't
Yes they work very well. I suspect the fine tuning is really only cosmetic.
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Which in turn is a gateway to fixed.
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Zach,
I thought your tone was fine. Sorry if mine was off. I didn't mean to come
off snarky or offended or anything.
Regards
Ted
On Monday, February 23, 2015 at 7:41:02 AM UTC-8, Zach A wrote:
Thanks Ted,
Sorry for the tone. Maybe pot brownies and internet forum physics lessons
I have a 52 cm first gen Bombadil. I am using Quasi-Motos on it now and I
think they fit well and work well at the pressure I run (usually low to mid
20s).
As I recall it, when I first mounted them I over inflated them to help with
seating and the front touched something. Probably the front tab
down the
rabbit hole and wind up in purgatory.
regards
ted
On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 8:22:15 AM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
Sorry for the confusion, I certainly mis wrote that and maybe even mis
thought it. My understanding, in a less technical way, is what Ted wrote.
In my simple
.
On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 10:42:22 PM UTC-8, Z wrote:
Ted,
Envision one half of a cantilever brake setup. There is an axis between
the points where the straddle cable attaches and the brake pivots. We'll
call this The Axis. Now envision a force vector along the straddle cable
, February 20, 2015 at 4:21:44 AM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Ted, et al engineer types: I happily bow to your knowledge on the angles
and leverage, though I was told the opposite (as I understood it) before I
made the change. Interestingly, either way, the experience went from slushy
brakes
always the best plan
On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 2:54:52 PM UTC-8, Mark Reimer wrote:
Ok. I'm out of my element. Going riding
On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 4:52 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
Mark,
From the BQ writeup you cite
The angle of the straddle cable also af
beautiful in itself.
On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 7:33:03 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
Deacon,
The thing is, that definitely does not increase the leverage.
The the vertical component of the tension in the straddle cable is equal
to the tension in the brake cable (well half on each side
than I'm willing to
regurgitate, take a look at BQ's great write-up on setting up canti's.
In the end, I'm sure we can all agree that Paul canti's are awesome.
On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 4:18 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
Deacon,
I am glad that you were able get your
.
To read a much more exhaustive explanation than I'm willing to
regurgitate, take a look at BQ's great write-up on setting up canti's.
In the end, I'm sure we can all agree that Paul canti's are awesome.
On Fri, Feb 20, 2015 at 4:18 PM, ted ted@comcast.net wrote:
Deacon,
I am glad that you
, and not past
it. I bow out now...bye.
Clay
On Friday, February 20, 2015 2:34 PM, ted ted@comcast.net
javascript: wrote:
Clayton,
Your reasoning is mostly wrong, and your stick analogy does not apply.
I think you are forgetting that the straddle wire provides mechanical
advantage
dead horse
On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 7:47:57 AM UTC-8, Jim Thill - Hiawatha
Cyclery wrote:
My thoughts on the matter:
http://hiawathacyclery.blogspot.com/2015/02/dont-worry-about-bike-weight.html
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If lengthening the straddle cable from what's shown in this photo made your
brakes work better for you thats great, and I wouldn't dream of claiming
you were mistaken about it.
However it's also a fact that lengthening that cable reduces the mechanical
advantage (i.e. leverage) of the brake. So
want the
most power for the front brake, and clearance for panniers in the rear.
Ted, lengthening the saddle cable make the angle of the brake cable to the
brake arm closer to 90˚, and that definitely increased leverage. Here's
what it looked like:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/32311885@N07
Tom,
You might also consider taking a file to your binder bolt. I don't think
filing down some of the threads in the middle of the bolt significantly
weakens it, and there is no need for threads in the space between the ears
of the seat tube lug. I think I did that on my SimpleOne to get the
Steve asks:
Last I heard, those raw clearcoat powdercoated bikes rusted pretty quickly
under the finish. Has that changed?
I doubt that it has changed. However I think the rate of rusting is quite
dependent on the particular environment, so as to how fast rust accumulates
YMMV.
Furthermore,
I think the pressure on the cable stop is significant. Have you ever
watched the way a stamped steel front cable hanger bends when you apply the
brake? I switched mine from steel to Al to eliminate the flex, which made
the front brake feel significantly firmer.
If I recall correctly the Simple
I have been riding my Quickbeam all year round in coastal Massachusetts
with road salt, and salt ocean spray since 2004. The bicycle is fendered,
and shows some beausage
Ted
On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 9:33:04 PM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
There is a 200k on March 5th I'd like to attempt
, including Triplizers hardware,
with a supply of poly bags and an impulse sealer. Gotta take the whole thing.
Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI
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The rest was ok, just cooked from the upwind ride. My normal cold weather
equipment is a layered approach, and thin wool socks, thick wool socks, and a
goretex oversock with Shimano sandles. The feet are well insulated, not
constricted, and don't have booty/shoe/cleat holes
Ted Shwartz
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to fill the cut out, but probably using it on a round bridge (as intended)
would be most satisfying. Peter certainly did sound excited about locating
one, so perhaps he will take you up on it.
thnks
Ted
On Wednesday, December 31, 2014 5:49:36 AM UTC-8, danmc wrote:
I finally had time to go
Fair enough, though I was mostly interested in folks experiences with the
similarly extra expensive stems. But then the stems are probably even more
subject to fetishizing charges since they don't even have the sometimes
useful huge setback of the posts to justify their existence. In any case
On the Quickbeam, New Bar tape, twine and shellac (just do at least every 10
years)
New Rando bike
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I usually put a liberal coat of grease on seat posts and stems prior to
installing them. The intent being to avoid creaking and / or parts becoming
stuck. When I put a Nitto lugged seat post on my Bombadil I had trouble
getting it to stay put. On every ride it would slip down in the seat tube.
You will get the most accurate measurements by carefully measuring your
roll out and using a cyclecomputer that counts wheel revolutions.
I find the easiest way to measure roll out is to lay out a 50' cloth tape
(using bricks or rocks to weight the ends helps), line up the valve stem at
the 1
If you want to eliminate the discrepancy, just reduce the wheel
circumference setting on your cateye by 2% (1 mile in 50 is 2 in 100 is 2%).
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:15:38 AM UTC-8, Tim wrote:
Good question. I set my CatEye up as 700x32 (Compass Stampede Pass). The
computer gains
I would be interested, though I don't live on the peninsula.
I used to live over there, and I still think the riding there is as good as
it gets.
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:19:24 AM UTC-8, Anne Paulson wrote:
Any South Bay riders interested in a South Bay get together? Oakland
is not
is not perfect
either.
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 10:08:05 AM UTC-8, ted wrote:
If you want to eliminate the discrepancy, just reduce the wheel
circumference setting on your cateye by 2% (1 mile in 50 is 2 in 100 is 2%).
On Saturday, December 20, 2014 8:15:38 AM UTC-8, Tim wrote:
Good
Sometimes rear brake bridges have a threaded hole on the bottom for
attaching a fender.
My AHH brake bridge has a squarish section in the center that is flat where
a fender bolt might go.
Would just drilling and taping that face work or should something like a
water bottle mount be brazed in if
that
came with threaded bridges, and I prefer that. My Hilsen, like yours,
doesn't have a threaded rear brake bridge. I have not drilled and tapped
it yet, but it's currently not wearing fenders, either.
On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:21:31 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
Sometimes rear brake
-brackets are really nice looking. I also bought a
set of Sheldon nuts for the next time fenders go back on the Hilsen.
Christopher is right that you'll have to run a bolt that's exactly the
right length.
On Friday, December 19, 2014 3:47:06 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
Thanks Bill,
Since its
wrote:
Honjo makes this small thing that lets you mount rear fender on a bike
without threaded rear brake bridge:
http://www.euroasiaimports.com/productcart/pc/Honjo-Fender-Attatchment-Pivot-for-Narrow-Space-2291p23812.htm
Takashi
2014年12月20日土曜日 8時21分31秒 UTC+9 ted:
Sometimes rear brake
I used a similar approach to mount a Mark's rack on my Bombadil, but rather
than put an s bend in the short struts I just used a single kink in a short
straight strut that made them about horizontal. It worked fine, but with
cantilever brakes I found I preferred the mini rack.
Do any of RBW's
That photo should also remind us that the euro pro road race crowd didn't
arrive at what they are using now without trying a lot of different things.
Those Vitus bikes were widely reputed to be very flexible, they must plane.
Didn't Jan say his Alan cross bike does.
Lots of experimentation with
I am lucky enough that pretty much nothing to do with my cycling is driven
by need. I am way past needs and well into preferences.
No doubt I could ride for 5+ hours without water without dying, but I
rather think I would rather not. Ride without water that is.
On Tuesday, November 25, 2014
just
have to go out and do it! If you have to ride 20 miles without water, it'll
probably be fine.
Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com
Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/
On Monday, November 24, 2014 7:28:38 PM UTC-8, ted wrote:
Thanks
Thanks for weighing in with your experience Jan.
Sounds like you got 40 miles per bottle, so with 3 bottles you had at
least 50% margin for an 80 mile gap between water. No worries, pretty
simple.
I presume warmer sunnier conditions would reduce your miles per bottle, and
would eat into that
that a
nonstop rider doesn't, but the 2gal that site mentions seems like a whole
lot more than I thought folks usually carry on a day (or two) ride. Are the
water needs for the fast movers that much less than for those going at a
more leisurely pace?
thnks
Ted
On Saturday, November 22, 2014
They are so tiny. I mean they pack down really small. I fit two in my small
flat fix pouch where only one regular tube fits.
I do however wonder how well they work once you put a patch on one. The
patch doesn't stretch like the tube does. I makes an uneven hard spot. Will
that make a patched
In the main triangle along with the bottle cages? Guess it pays to ride a
big frame.
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:07:56 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
I strap the 100oz bladder to the frame.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:00:11 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
Deacon
, 2014 at 6:00 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
Deacon and Anne, thanks for the info.
Do you put the 100oz hydro pack/blader in a bike mounted bag or are you
wearing those on your back?
Anne, sounds like you plan to go with well under 2gal of water storage.
Have
I
I think this http://epicureancyclist.com/review-msr-dromedary-and-s-biners/
looks fairly nice.
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:26:13 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
I don't remember. Wherever it works. Test before hand. Irish straps are
beautiful!
With abandon,
Patrick
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On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:39:09 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Water is the heaviest item by volume you will carry. It pays to get it as
low as practicable.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:36:49 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
I think
.
With abandon,
Patrick
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:36:49 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
I think this
http://epicureancyclist.com/review-msr-dromedary-and-s-biners/ looks
fairly
nice.
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:26:13 PM UTC-8, Deacon Patrick wrote:
I don't remember
http://www.compasscycle.com/tires_tubes_650.html
Nice to hear about the patching.
On Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:05:40 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 11/23/2014 09:13 PM, ted wrote:
They are so tiny. I mean they pack down really small. I fit two in my
small flat fix pouch where only
I am intrigued by the route but hough the trip sounds very appealing, it
also sounds very daunting.
For example this from http://velodirt.com/the-oregon-outback/:
... At the longest no-water section we each carried 2+ gallons of water.
...
Yet Jan Heine did it on a rando bike, and several
Check the blug, I think that's the Clem. Also seen in the two fish bottle cage?
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Got a paper coppy in the mail today. Very nice.
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If it's mostly flop when parked on a kickstand that's the trouble, perhaps a
twin leg stand would help.
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Front derailer?
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Anybody planing on riding this this Sat?
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Pardon, but what is a greenstick fracture?
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Thanks
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Stonehog, just to clarify, are you saying you feel a difference between 38 and
42 650b tires, or are you comparing 38 700c tires to 42 650b? Was the
comparison done with a single bike?
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To
states he already
did).
On Thursday, October 9, 2014 9:36:52 AM UTC-4, ted wrote:
Stonehog, just to clarify, are you saying you feel a difference between
38 and 42 650b tires, or are you comparing 38 700c tires to 42 650b? Was
the comparison done with a single bike?
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