You can order 58cm 650b AHHs from RBW new. I think the wait time is shorter
than usual right now. I also think a 58 was posted on the list recently. I
suspect a 60 Saluki is going to be a hard to get item. Since Legolass can still
be ordered and single top tube Bombadils have been made, perhaps
I have mounted a light on a Paul Gino mount on the side of a nitto mini front
rack. I did not care for the wheel shadow and off centre beam, so I moved the
light to front center. I expect many others would have found the side mount
fine.
YMMV
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I think the bg rr will be great. The quasi motos work very well on the
Bombadil.
Congrats on the new to you bike. I bet you are going to love it.
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By way of counterpoint,
Based on my recent experience going from 32s to 40+ on my AHH, I doubt I would
feel much of a difference between 38 and 42. I'm not trying to say anybody who
feels they have to have 42s is wrong, but for me I doubt it warrants he fuss. I
expect some other folks might
Steve asks ... is there *any* pneumatic tire, ..., that would be usable
in goathead country without sealant?
I think the super stout marathon variants with a thick layer of something
under the tread would suffice.
e.g. http://www.wiggle.co.uk/schwalbe-marathon-plus-smartguard-city-tyre-2013/
UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 09/25/2014 09:00 PM, ted wrote:
Steve asks ... is there *any* pneumatic tire, ..., that would be usable
in goathead country without sealant?
I think the super stout marathon variants with a thick layer of something
under the tread would suffice.
e.g
the bead of a used racing tire and use it as a liner. Worst: heavy thorn
proof tubes with a half gallon of Slime inside heavy duty tires with an
added liner. The riding message those send is take up curling.
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:00 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
Steve
I think Light and Motion has a Velben good thing going.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:36:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
Oh snaps, just looked at the price on that one!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:18 PM,
to look that one up!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 7:57 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
I think Light and Motion has a Velben good thing going.
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 7:36:40 PM UTC-7, cyclot
ooops
On Thursday, September 25, 2014 8:19:09 PM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
S, don't give it away!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 8:15 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
I only know it from reading
I have an Edelux 2 (RBW sells this one too) and a battery powered Ixon IQ.
I think PW says the beam from the newer Eyc is similar to that of the Ixon
IQ but with the dim spot right in front of the wheel filled in. When I got
my Ixon IQ I liked it much better than any light I had used before it,
and whats the confidence interval ...
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 6:54:30 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
But that's only true 75% of the time... :)
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin tim@littlevillagemag.com
javascript: wrote:
Johan-
I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple
The Edelux lights use optics from BM with the II version having optics
like the new Cyo lights and the original (not II) being like the previous
version of the Cyo (ie IQ not IQ2). Since the reflectors and LEDs are the
same, the beams are too.
Choosing between the two brands is about price and
I have a Spanninga Pixio Xba I am planning to put on my SimpleOne's fender.
I also have a PDW Radbot 1k and a dyno BM TopLight Line.
The Radbot 1K is very bright on axis, but is a single small spot of
brightness. The Pixio is fairly bright though not as bright as the Radbot,
and also seems to
So of course you should do as you like and go threadless ever and always. I
see absolutely no reason why you shouldn't.
But some of the rest of us find that the bars we want work with quill
stems, and find the range of quill stems available perfectly adequate.
Though threadless has dominated
Many factors come into play. At the moment I have a sugino crankset from
RBW with 24/33/43 rings on it mounted on my Bombadil with a 107mm cartridge
bb. Its close but despite the curves everything clears the chainstay. Mind
you a 26 small ring would not clear with that bb, so ...
On Tuesday,
Are external bearing cranks supposed to be less expensive to make? Why is that?
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Hey Tim,
Thanks for explaining.
Ted
On Thursday, September 18, 2014 6:18:30 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
Crossing the right/rear over to the left side makes the cable housing loop
around the outside of the head tube, minimizing rub on the paint. It makes
for a longer housing but with a wider
I asked about that a bit once. I believe the potential for surface rust
under powdercoat is always there, its just that with pigment you don't see
it.
On Thursday, September 18, 2014 11:26:37 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com
wrote:
If one is good, two must be great!
Inaugural ride this
I have ben experimenting with running shift cables on my top tube. Seems to
me the right / rear shifter should go on the right side of the top tube so
it runs onto the right seat stay and down to the rd cleanly. Why do you
chose to take the right shifter cable to the left side of the top tube?
similar to
what I do for my tandem when I pack it in its bikepro case.
Regards
Ted
On Tuesday, September 16, 2014 5:26:38 PM UTC-4, Pudge wrote:
Ted:
Did you use this stem for packing an SS coupled bike? I take it turning
the bars wasn’t enough to get the bike into the case safely
Patrick is making good points here. In fact I think that though cue sheets
are often provided with gps route files now, they are much older than bike
computers and intended to help you follow a route with a map. I think I
read in one of Jan's blog posts that he never uses a bike computer.
That
that I got cheap but I don't use anymore.
On Monday, September 15, 2014 12:40:19 AM UTC-4, ted wrote:
though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the
garmin 510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or
pickups. It can be mounted on your bars or just thrown
:14 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
I have never noticed the speed reading jumping around on my Garmin 510,
exepct when I hooked up a speed cadence sensor and didn't set the wheel
size.
I this erratic speed reading you speak of a feature of all Garmin units?
Is it limited to those that don't use GLONASS
How about the rear wheel?
On Monday, September 15, 2014 7:31:44 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
I use a really long Kryptonite lock like this that goes around my
downtube, straddles the sign post, and around the rim to secure them all
with one lock
though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the garmin
510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or pickups. It
can be mounted on your bars or just thrown in a pocket or bag. You can load
routes to it and have it beep at you when turns are coming up. you can
Think mine came with a 107 cartridge in it. Changed it out for a PW so I could
fine tune the chain line. That was the shortest one RBW stocks, 108? Works very
well with old suntour superb track crank.
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What size please. The first ones were 150, later they added a 200 for those who
wanted more reach.
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I am fairly certain that at least one run of quickbeams included a 650B 52cm
frame. If you search you will find photos. I suspect they are rare as hens
teeth though. Probably worth calling RBW to make sure they don't have a
leftover hiding in the attic.
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On Friday, August 29, 2014 12:06:42 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
Michael,
If you would prefer more closely spaced gears (13,14,15 vs 13,15) why
don't you use a tighter cassette and a third chainring?
Also are you using 8sp? I thought 11-18s usually went 14,16 not 13,15.
On Friday, August 29, 2014 4
As somebody else suggested, the only way you are going to know what the
difference is like to you is to buy the other kind and try them.
Some folks will tell you 42 is hugely different. So far I don't find the
difference between the 32 cypres I was riding a bit ago and the 41 GR I am
riding now
Michael,
If you would prefer more closely spaced gears (13,14,15 vs 13,15) why don't
you use a tighter cassette and a third chainring?
Also are you using 8sp? I thought 11-18s usually went 14,16 not 13,15.
On Friday, August 29, 2014 4:31:41 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
The front shift up
150 or 200 size?
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Thanks for the details
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Actually TA do make a 33t. I think it would be great if RBW would add a 110
33t option to the collection of SILVER rings.
On Saturday, August 16, 2014 6:41:25 PM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
Simple bashtype guard:
https://www.rivbike.com/product-p/chrg.htm
Also, I've been running the XD2
Pray tell, what wheels and tubulars didn't compare?
On Sunday, August 17, 2014 4:37:37 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
I rode tubes in my salad days, and a few years ago rebuilt some wheels and
did the deja vu thing. They didn't compare with the the Grand Bois Cerf
(29MM) on a pair of
Did they say there was demand for a 43? The TA 33 is available from Harris
cyclery too.
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I'm a bit confused. Are you routing the fd cable along the top tube and then
down the seat tube? That is the way a top pull fd is designed to work. Pictures
look like you have standard down tube cable route for your fd.
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Which sounds fine. Alternatively can't one go to smaller rings and get a
similar effect with stock cassettes?
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Nope. I thought you might want something smaller than a 35 gear there. As in a
reason to want lower than 35 on a road bike.
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, ted wrote:
Nope. I thought you might want something smaller than a 35 gear there.
As in a reason to want lower than 35 on a road bike.
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I recently changed tires from ~32mm GB Cerfs (very nice tires) to ~41mm
Soma GR Greens (also very nice tires). On reasonable pavement I have not
been immediately bowled over by the differences. Therefore I don't think I
would find the difference between 38 and 42 significant. However it seems
Since I'm not doing anything with a point this evening anyway
Ridable bikes on hand minus anything not bolted or zip tied on:
~53cm Gios road race bike, ~19.5 lbs (circa '80 weight weeny-ish steel w/
mostly current parts for ref)
mostly campi 10sp ergo, cane creek weight weeny brakes,
Anton, thanks for the insight.
My Cypres tires were the standard variety. I think they start to feel a bit
loose between 65 and 60 psi in the rear. I'm just beginning my experiment with
42 mm tires. My first take is the GR Greens get a bit loose between 50 and 45
psi in the rear, and that 50
Bill, have you been up say Welch Creek rd. off Calaveras?
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I have a pair of the light Soma GRs from RBW on my AHH. I have only been on
one ride since getting them so not much experience yet. They seem like very
nice tires. Prior to the GRs I had Cypres tires on that bike. Just looking
at them the size difference is very noticeable. I haven't noticed a
I was amazed at how fast my order from RBW arrived last week, with zero
shipping charge to boot. I ordered late (well past COB) tues. and my
package arrived while I was at work on thurs. Granted I live only a few
towns away from them, but I still think that is remarkable. Well done RBW.
A pair
The GR tires I got were the GRREN version. I don't think there is any
puncture protection, and I doubt they are any less susceptible to flatting
than the Hetre EL version. For that you would want the BLUE version of
the GRs, which likely has somewhat different ride characteristics. As you
say
I have one. It is, as others have noted, intended to hold tubulars. I use mine
to hold a spare tube, tire levers and patch kit in a home made bag that fits
it's shape. I have it mounted on the bottom of my AHH's down tube. Dimensions
are about 1.75x3.25x5.5 inches.
I like it. Should get a
Ouch. Sorry abt the toe.
As others point out, standard chains should be more than strong enough for
any of us. I think the only reason to use 1/8in chain is so you can also go
with 1/8in cog and chainring. The added surface area should make em last
longer, and I like the look. No easy changing
Bill,
I think that originally Bombadils larger than 48cm had twin top tubes, my
52cm does, though a single top tube 52 changed hands on the list a while
back.
The Bombadil grew the mid stays in the rear triangle after the Hunqapillar
came out. This coincided with the shift from parallel TT to
Bill,
The main problem people have with their chains is that they wear, and if
you use them when too worn they ruin your chainrings and cogs. Sounds like
you have had this problem. The chain doesn't need to be clean so much as it
needs to be lubricated. It is also better if you don't wash grit
Basically don't touch it till it starts to make noise. Then clean with solvents
and start fresh with the lube of your choice. Thereafter follow the prescribed
regimen for your chosen lubricant.
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Chapter two of
http://www.classicrendezvous.com/publications/thecustombicycle.pdf (on tubing)
may interest some of you. Actually I like the whole book. Some friends gave me
a copy back in the 70s.
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Though some sort of fixture is likely needed I doubt it would be all that
hard to rig up something adequate. Certainly measuring tire drop would be
less trouble than the roll down testing you have done. But I think the real
question is whats so special about 15% drop. I can't recall seeing any
I would think we care about effective spring rate (cush) and how much
additional travel is possible before getting a pinch flat. Aren't those
driven by the contact patch size, its derivative, and the height of the
tire? How does cross section area (or volume) drive those?
Are you sure this is
of the contact patch with respect to what?
On Tue, Jun 10, 2014 at 6:34 PM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:
wrote:
I would think we care about effective spring rate (cush) and how much
additional travel is possible before getting a pinch flat. Aren't those
driven by the contact patch size
starting point for experimenting with tire pressure...
Jan Heine
Editor
Bicycle Quarterly
www.bikequarterly.com
On Tuesday, June 10, 2014 4:19:49 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
But I think the real question is whats so special about 15% drop. I can't
recall seeing any supporting argument / evidence
I often read remarks where different tires are recommended when hauling
20+lbs of gear, yet seldom see rider weight involved in tire
recommendations. Why is that? Ill wager the weight of the riders themselves
vary by way more than 20lbs. Why don't more tire selection recommendations
include
Um, please pardon my ignorance, but I'm just curious. What's this pin as
opposed to Allen retention you speak of?
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So do your cr720s have pins in the holders? Mine came with short (road)
pads, and have the allen thing.
On Friday, June 6, 2014 5:31:40 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
It's the means of holding the brake pad in place after it's slid into
place. Either a cotter pin type deal, or an allen
Well if you prefer to gripe, by all means stick with that. Were I you though,
I'd buy the Yokozuna road shoes when the current pads wear out.
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Rivendell Bicyle Works Custom Atlantis Touring Bike 54.5cm – High end
build delivered 7/27/13 *AS NEW Condition*
*$5,000 Cash – PayPal add 3%*
*Rivendell Bicycle Works Atlantis Custom Touring Bike Build – with high
end components intended for serious loaded Touring. Delivery
in.
good luck
ted
On Saturday, May 17, 2014 3:45:40 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Compared with the brakes on my Hunqapillar, the Quickbeam’s brakes feel
squishy. They could use some tightening, but not by much (and are worn
about half way). Possible causes I could think of:
— New pads
Actually I think the old is 120, so those antique campi qrs from the late 70s
probably
Work
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I have a baggins country bag (May be similar to the little joe) that would work
very well. I'm not parting with mine but perhaps you can find one. The old
style bagman support woks very well with this relatively square bag, affixed to
the support there is zero sway and zero thigh contact.
--
My simple one is 120, and the RBW geometry charts say 120 for the so. I would
be surprised if the qb was wider, but i guess I'm not really certain.
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As long as the end of the catilever is above the pivot lowering the stradle
increases the mech advantage.
The static force analysis is cleaner if you do it with vertical and
horizontal components.
The vertical force at the cantilever end is always 1/2 the tension in the
brake cable, and that
Do I recall correctly that Jan has said elsewhere that the EL casings were
developed from the mfg's high end tubular casing?
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Most likely, perhaps the weight off you would seem a bigger difference for
esoteric and dubious reasons. To first order a lb is a lb, be it love handles
on you, a jar in a bag, or part of your bike.
The siren call of component and frame weight obsession is in close quarters
with the lure of
the road comment: I concur
that supple tires are great. I am very pleased with the GB tires I am
currently using. When they wear out I expect I will buy new Compass tires
to replace them. But that is a bit off topic.
ted
* It's just like a Nifty Swifty without the extra ultra-duty casing
I think that depends on what your idea of hugely lighter is. I think
steel forks weigh about 1.5 lbs. and that reasonably strong carbon forks
weighing half that can be produced. Perhaps cutting the weight of a part in
half is huge, perhaps shaving less than a pound on a roughly 200 pound
If you include the rubber in your definition of casing. I am fairly sure
research has shown that slick tires have less rolling resistance than tires
with a modest tread (I can't speak to the size of the difference though).
Similarly tread compound has been shown to have an impact.
Tires with
.
Do you know of folks measuring the suppleness and hysteresis
characteristics of tire casing material? How is suppleness quantified?
thnks
Ted
On Friday, May 9, 2014 2:04:49 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
We didn't test the Jack Browns, but we did test the Nifty-Swifty and
Maxy-Fasty, which
Hey all. Thanks for the help.
Ted
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you use on bearings etc?
thanks for the help
Ted
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I am 5'9 with a 32 inseam. My 56 QB fit is spot on
Ted
On Monday, April 28, 2014, Michael Fleischman michaeljfleisch...@gmail.com
wrote:
Good Afternoon,
I was curious if anyone could help me with sizing me up for a QUickbeam.
My PBH is 85.5 and I inseam is 32. I currently ride a 59cm AHH
you get it all sorted out satisfactorily soon
ted
On Saturday, April 26, 2014 7:00:01 AM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote:
Mike, sigh, you're saying what I suspected but didn't want to hear: it's
just harder to push those big wheels up a hill. I'm already thinking about
trying 2.3 tires, though
ways to go
about it, and I certainly wouldn't buy one just to use it once or twice.
regards
ted
On Saturday, April 26, 2014 8:15:31 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
Good point Ted. There is the simplest way I knw to directly compare gear
inches or ratios, and no GPS required. (Sheldon, of course
Jeremy wrote:
... And I think this is further reinforced by the type of riding featured
in MTB magazines and videos: high speed, big jumps, riding up and down
ledgy technical features. ...
To which I would like to add (despite veering off topic a bit), this is why
I don't think of, or refer
can't be the answer. I'm already below the
Rohloff minimum. I can't go lower.
On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 8:07 AM, ted ted@comcast.net javascript:wrote:
Anne,
You have a wonderful new bike and one of its unique features is the
ability to accommodate really big tires. I'd think you would want
http://bike.duque.net/review-the-magnic-lights.htm
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for a show display
frame that's been ridden a lot. Contact me off list for details.
Ted Durant
Rona Components
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% tire drop being optimal is based on, and can point to some
documentation of that basis. Also though I didn't state it well before, and
probably still haven't, I think the question is perfectly logical.
thnks
Ted
p.s. Berto's paper also states that ... Jan Heine thinks that inflation
pressure
Glad you had a great time outside yesterday. May you have another today.
No worries on being grouchy, and no apologies needed. Frankly I didn't
detect much grouch in your post. Way in bounds of the norm around here.
regards
Ted
On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 3:07:56 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote
hope you enjoy figuring out what works best for you and your preferences.
regards
Ted
On Wednesday, April 9, 2014 2:36:16 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
Deacon, I'm sitting in an Inn after a hard drive across a chunk of Md.,
all of Delaware, NJ, and up NY to Rhinebeck so my brain is too
Have you found any documentation of a substantive basis (not just an appeal to
authority) for the oft repeated assertion that 15% tire drop gives an optimal
trade off of rolling resistance and comfort?
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In my last exchange with Jan he asserted rolling resistance was basically i
dependent of tire pressure, baring riding flat tires and very high pressures
(or maybe it was ultra high). I don't think he mentioned 15% drop.
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I believe I have done that before, and I did just now. I may be incompetent but
I didn't find test results documenting 15% tire drop as an optimum.
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Please remember there is a lot more going on with a bike than just the
wheel size. For example smaller wheeled bikes tend to have less bottom
bracket drop. Comparing the 650b and 700c hillsens, the drop differs by
13mm. The difference in bsd between the two wheel sizes is 38mm, so the
radius
The tires don't stink, though they may not be the sort of tires you like.
Apparently some folks like uber stout bomb proof tires, and some others
prefer the lightest supplest tires they can find. Unless I missed it you
have not said what tires you use on your Atlantis.
I have a bike with 650b
Philip, pray tell what are the tooth counts on your dingle and rings, and
what % grade are the climbs you ride?
On Monday, March 31, 2014 11:38:31 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
I think riding my Quickbeam fixed on singletrack is fantastic fun.
You'd be looking at cyclocross tires for
That's twice 1.5, which is what one tooth on the ring does, and that's not
picky. Going up three in front and up one in back takes the gear up .5. Now if
that were make or break, that might be sensitive. But 3 is certainly not
trivial. My curiosity is because the climbs in my local open space
Sure doubt its Compass's fault. I've been very pleased with their service.
On Monday, March 31, 2014 4:08:54 PM UTC-7, Jim Bronson wrote:
Finally showed up today, 2 days after the 400k I wanted to use them on.
Personally, I blame the postal service. But oh well.
On Mar 28, 2014 10:02 AM,
Looks great. I think I see a chain catcher thing on the stay you left off the
inventory, nice touch that's very handy.
You might consider the mks track chain tensioner as an alternative to the
monkey nuts.
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Gotta agree with Jim. I love my simple one, and it's great on pavement or dirt,
but if your mntn biking involves mountains I prefer to have a geared bike.
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Cool. I have the same hanger on my SO. It's nice having something to keep the
chain back where I can hook it easily with the rear axel. The monkey nuts look
neat I'm curious how they work out for you.
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Other potential solutions may be a bb spacer on the drive side or a longer bb.
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I have one bike with GB Cypres tires on it, and another with the unreinforced
JBs on it. They seem quite similar to me, though the JBs do look much bigger
than the Cypres. I think the different appearance must be due to rim width and
700c/650b differences, because they measure out to nearly
When I lived in south east Mi. a long time ago, I had a bike with 44-52 chain
rings and a 14-18 straight block. It was great. These days, living in the SF
east Bay Area, I'm really pleased with 30-46 rings and a 9sp 11-32 cassette. I
am convinced that the right gear setup is entirely dependent
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