On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:58:30 AM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:
Leslie, that's exactly what I trying to describe—thanks for the pic!
Yup, I knew exactly what you were saying, and realized that that pic would
show it glad I had it!
On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 6:27:43 PM UTC-4,
I have a Luxos U on my LHT, mounted off the handlebars using an RM clamp.
The USB plug is strapped to the stem. The placement works well for
lighting things up, and the unit is as robust as any other dynamo light
I've used.
http://gspiess.files.wordpress.com/2008/11/dscn1600.jpg?w=300h=225
I have a orange Rambouillet and love it still despite all the progress in
the world of increased reach calipers and the potential for bigger tires
under fender. It continues to be exactly what I was not finding in the open
market, short of something custom.
*The Rambouillet was being put to
Johan-
I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple on my Riv Road for several
months. It's a very lovely, very narrow crank set. I got it (from a list
member) with standard extractor and pedal threading.
However, these old French cranks have very little distance between the big
ring and the
But that's only true 75% of the time... :)
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin tim.ga...@littlevillagemag.com
wrote:
Johan-
I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple on my Riv Road for several
months. It's a very lovely, very narrow crank set. I got it (from a list
member) with
Ibex is gone. Make an offer on the other items if interested.
On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 7:29:08 AM UTC-7, DS wrote:
More for sale as I get ready to buy a Cheviot:
- *Small Tan Saddlesack: $100 local. $110 shipped*. A little bit of
tire rub on the bottom but otherwise in great
I have been using the Eyc non senso version and love it. It's brighter
than most car lights. I have been using a tire driven dyno with that and
the Toplight line brake plus, and switching it between two bikes on a
seasonal basis. I like it enough to have ordered a dyno hub and Eyc senso
for
I have an Edelux 2 (RBW sells this one too) and a battery powered Ixon IQ.
I think PW says the beam from the newer Eyc is similar to that of the Ixon
IQ but with the dim spot right in front of the wheel filled in. When I got
my Ixon IQ I liked it much better than any light I had used before it,
and whats the confidence interval ...
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 6:54:30 AM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
But that's only true 75% of the time... :)
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:51 AM, Tim Gavin tim@littlevillagemag.com
javascript: wrote:
Johan-
I rode a super low-Q Stronglight 99 triple
With regards to my electrically welded Hillborne- can't post the picture from
my phone but if any of you have one in front of you, and assuming this isn't
just a Waterford built Sam thing, the junction of the chain stay to the
dropouts is it.
It only takes one to be either lugged, brazed, or
Like Riv is for bike advice, PW is for lights. Call him up, tell him your
intended use, and he will tell you the best option(s). I have not heard of him
steering anyone down the wrong path (he knows how to illuminate it haha).
A conversation is worth a thousand group postings, in this case.
I don't have a dyno setup yet. But I've researched it a good deal, on
Peter White's site and elsewhere.
If I were to take the plunge today, I'd save some money and buy the Shutter
Precision dyno hub. They're about half the price of the SON hubs, look as
good, and are very well-rated.
Then I'd
There are alternatives to rim dynamos as well. I recently did a user
(i.e., non-technical) review of a number of different types of generators
on my blog. It's fairly long, but if you want to start from the beginning,
you can go here:
+1 on the BM lights already mentioned. I run the Luxos U on my
camping/commuting bike for the USB charging and the tiny but super bright
Eyc on my go fast gravel race bike. Both lights perform fabulously.
Cheers
Jayme
On Tuesday, September 23, 2014 10:09:21 PM UTC-5, DS wrote:
Getting my
Peter White carries the Lumotec IQ Premium Cyo which is $35 more
expensive than the Eyc but about $80 less than the Edluxe II. I have
one of these IQ Premium Cyo Senso lights that I bought used off of
this list and I love, love, love it. It's 80lux and has the same
optics as the Luxos and Edluxe
Plus one for the new cyo. Excellent price, brightness, and beam optics. Love
mine.
Hudson in atx
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Here's my story:
In March 2012, I bought myself a Sam Hillborne frameset. I wasn't even in
the market! My son and daughter were competing in a swim meet at UC
Berkley, and my wife and I took a little side trip to Walnut Creek during
some downtime. She was interested in their mixte; the Betty
1. Road double.
2. Road triple.
Feel free to list by decades. I am guessing standards changed from the olde
days thru now.
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Great story, Matt! I imagine there are more than a few Just going for a
test-ride folks that have left Walnut Creek with a new bike!
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 9:23:38 AM UTC-7, hangtownmatt wrote:
Here's my story:
In March 2012, I bought myself a Sam Hillborne frameset. I wasn't
Yes, you are correct, she needs a women's frame to suit her riding
style, at least with drops. The reason she didn't go for a taller
frame in what she has now: The TT would have been longer and she
didn't want that.
Or I could explore the alternate solution, which is to put Albas on
the
I always thought the Cross-check was probably more comparable to the Sam,
but the LHT isn't far off. All three are smartly designed and versatile.
All three can be lifetime bikes, if you want them to be. I've extensively
ridden a Disc Trucker, Cross-check, Atlantis, Romulus, and a few test
For an upright bar setup, with typical RBW bar height, the frame size has
very little to do with anything. A tall Nitto stem and upright bars will
work fine, even on a smallish frame IMHO. You will need to do some
guessing on stem length. It won't look the best, but it doesn't look good
anyway
It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and good
shifting and a wide range of gears. Personally, I like the direction things
are going with the wide range 1x10 and 1x11 stuff. Single chainring
eliminates all these pesky front derailleur compatibility and functionality
Surly loaned me several fat bikes. Four Ice Cream Trucks and a couple
Moonlanders in various sizes. We will add these to the HC family fat bike
stable, and have lots of bikes available to demo. 9am 9/27 Saturday
morning. Meet at HC to ride to the demo site, or just go to the parking lot
near
Only thing I've ever read is on here and the fine folks at riv.
https://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=54
On Sep 24, 2014 12:24 PM, lungimsam john11.2...@gmail.com wrote:
1. Road double.
2. Road triple.
Feel free to list by decades. I am guessing standards changed from the
olde days thru
I've used the Edeluxe and the Cyo--all of my dyno-powered bikes now have
various flavors of the Cyo. I haven't used the Edeluxe II, but I found the beam
pattern on the Cyo lights to be better than the original Edeluxe ... at a lower
cost.
I'm currently using one of the newer Cyo lights on my
On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and
good shifting and a wide range of gears.
A friend of mine has a Jeff Lyon L'Avecaise equipped with 650Bx42 Hetres
and a Rene Herse crank. Big tires, good
Jim said difficult, not impossible. I personally like 1x's as well, though
I haven't made it over 7 in the rear yet...
Best,
Eric
Indpls
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 2:24:53 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
It's difficult
Since the Luxos U is Manny-approved, I ordered it today. I'll mount it
on the handlebars.
I'm removing the Plug USB port that mounts in the headset from my
bike. I'll sell it cheap to anyone who wants it.
On Tue, Sep 23, 2014 at 8:52 PM, Manuel Acosta
manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com wrote:
Anne so
Today, most racing doubles have a Q factor of 146-148 mm. Campagnolo is
very consistent at 146, others vary a bit. Road triples usually are about
10 mm wider.
For example, our Rene Herse doubles have a Q factor of 142 mm when set up
with a 43.5 mm chainline. (I run mine with a narrower
+1.
To which I add:
Riding seasons vary. In WI, for example, unless you wish to install studded
tires, the season ends in early December, returns late March. Your body
looses elasticity during the off-season. So the first 2-3 weeks in March
you need to raise the bars and lower the seat. Not
This just for one particular crank, the TA Pro 5 Vis (older model). When I
used them as doubles, these have Qs of about 135 mm on a 115 mm spindle. I
daresay the newer models, with more space between outside of right arm and
inside of outer ring, may be a bit wider.
Same TA crank set up as
Anyone tried these?
http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_doubletriple_9_speed_thumb_shifters_silver-LD0110.php
The cost of setting up the Paul's thumbie adaptor and a new pair of
D/A 9 speed shifters is pushing $200. The Microshifts look like a
nice alternative.
--
Keep the metal side up and
I lot of us don't consider 42 mm tires to be especially large.
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 1:24:53 PM UTC-5, Steve Palincsar wrote:
On 09/24/2014 01:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
It's difficult to have a narrow Q-factor and still have big tires and
good shifting and a
What you need to worry about is future-proofing your ability to fit on the
bike long term. And there, threadless falls on its face.
I disagree. In the special case of 1 threadless with a steel steerer, no
matter how short you happened to cut the steerer, you can always get
equivalent
I finalized on the Luxos B. Thanks for the input, will report back on it!
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Big tires are in the eye of the beholder. 28mm for some. 75mm for others
Narrow Q is in the eye of the beholder. 130mm for some. 165mm for others
Good shifting is in the eye of the beholder. Doesn't chain suck for some.
Doesn't make a sound for others
Wide range gearing is in the eye of the
For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes often
change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that a new
Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a Nitto quill
stem. If you don't cut it too short at the beginning, which a lot of people
Hi Jim,
If you're not too particular on looks, the SunRace thumbies sold by Riv
work really well. Even includes housing and cables!
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/sh3.htm
Good luck on the new set up!
shoji
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:19:07 PM UTC-4, Jim Bronson wrote:
Anyone tried
On 09/24/2014 04:23 PM, Joe Broach wrote:
It's worth noting that you can quick adjust the newfangled stems'
height, too, if you use Sheldon's method and clamp a cable hanger or
seatpost collar around the steerer below the stem. That holds the
headset adjustment when you remove the stem and
On 09/24/2014 04:19 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:
I disagree. In the special case of 1 threadless with a steel
steerer, no matter how short you happened to cut the steerer, you can
always get equivalent adjustability to a quill stem..by having the
steerer threaded and converting to a quill
Of course, if someone is devoted to quill stems, then I would expect that
person to be devoted to traditional handlebar designs, to the exclusion
of newer designs. I personally think the Jones Loop bar is the best
all-around bar for my riding. I can't do that with a quill stem. There are
a lot
LoL ... Yes Bill !
The I of the beholder indeed !
The best bike ever, and the best parts ever . . . .are Ones I HAVE !
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:28:45 PM UTC-4, Bill Lindsay wrote:
*Big tires are in the eye of the beholder. 28mm for some. 75mm for
others*
*Narrow
On 09/24/2014 04:19 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
I lot of us don't consider 42 mm tires to be especially large.
Once you start getting beyond the demi-ballon size you're right, it
becomes very difficult to maintain reasonable Q factors and all the rest.
On Wednesday, September
On 09/24/2014 04:36 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
For a lot of us, the ideal of a lifetime bike isn't realistic. Tastes
often change faster than our bodies do. Anyway, I would point out that
a new Surly fork with uncut steerer isn't much more costly than a
Nitto quill stem. If you
Great news update! I've been steadily increasing what I can do and am
amazed by how quickly things are returning. Did a photo hike where I
usually run, but it is 5+ miles of steep trails and 3 miles of fairly steep
biking (12%), so I'm already riding steeper than I'd dared hoped would be
I'm talking about replacing the stock for on a LHT with the same exact fork
with a longer steerer, if aging or injury (or whatever) makes it desirable
to have higher bars. Upgrading to a more magical fork is another matter.
Robert Pirsig had a famous book about a guy who drove himself insane
This post is addressed to nobody in particular, so don't take it
personal. Instead, it's addressed towards group think that tends to
overtake any skepticism that might naturally occur towards new trends.
In many ways I am adherent to the old-school ways of doing things, but
if there's one area I
One of the things I LOVE about threadless forks/headsets is their
adjustability. Swapping stems and adding spacers is a quick job, and so
much more pleasant than unwrapping bars (and inevitably scratching them up
pulling them through a quill stem). Threadless stems come in a plethora of
On 09/24/2014 05:01 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote:
I'm talking about replacing the stock for on a LHT with the same exact
fork with a longer steerer, if aging or injury (or whatever) makes it
desirable to have higher bars. Upgrading to a more magical fork is
another matter. Robert
I saw those, but I need indexing...
If I was going for something super inexpensive I would probably do
grip shifters.
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 3:37 PM, Shoji Takahashi
shoji.takaha...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi Jim,
If you're not too particular on looks, the SunRace thumbies sold by Riv work
really
UPDATE:
What's left:
Nitto Technomic deluxe stem.
100mm extension, 25.4 clamp, 115mm to max insertion line.
Beautiful condition. Looks new.
$55 shipped
Cinelli Giro D'Italia bars 64-42
42cm.
Lots scratches and tape glue/gunk.
$15 shipped
Ritchey Force straight mountain bar.
56cm, 6
Any feedback on
these: http://www.rivbike.com/Spanninga-Fender-Light-p/lt007.htm or
these: http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Fenderbot-Light/dp/B00428J5P2
How do they compare to a Planet Bike Superflash that is in steady,
not-superflashing mode (my only frame of reference)?
Battery
Light sensing is neat and all but these are LED lights, just turn them on
and relax; You'll be more visible too. Especially for the rear.
cc
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 1:28 PM, David Stein davecst...@gmail.com wrote:
I finalized on the Luxos B. Thanks for the input, will report back on it!
--
I have PDW fenderbot on the Bleriot. Nice light with a nice reflector and great
battery life, but nowhere near as bright as a Superflash. In a country setting,
bright enough. In the city, I put on a bright blink like the Superflash as a
backup to the Fenderbot.
--Eric N.
www.CampyOnly.com
Jim,
I have them on a recently purchased Surly Moonlander and love them. Later my
son borrowed the bike and that was the first thing he referenced upon returning
the bike. Take the leap I doubt you will be disappointed. The shifting is
precise and functions splendidly indexed.
Sincerely,
Spanninga:
Good - bright and makes big light. Steady only. Reflector included in the
design.
I don't like flashing lights. Why? Last night I saw a cyclist (while I was
driving a car) with forward and rear flashing lights, and they made it hard
to zero in on where he was. He could have been
I have the Spanniga. It is somewhat basic, you're not getting a super deal
at $15.
We have it on the tandem fender as a spare to back up the Secula Plus
generator taillight (which is very bright) on our chainstay.
The Spanniga is OK on dark roads, so-so in city riding. Switch is a little
Ryan,
Do you have any pics of your setup?
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Abcyclehank hankinso...@me.com wrote:
Jim,
I have them on a recently purchased Surly Moonlander and love them. Later my
son borrowed the bike and that was the first thing he referenced upon
returning the bike. Take
Very Good Jim !
Yes . . . I bought that theory too . . . and it's all preference . It
used to be that every crank was narrow and straight, I can't say that I
particularly liked it either . Even my '83 Stumpy back in the day had a
narrow straight Sugino triple . I like the way the XD's
The reviews for the 'Bot aren't very exciting, but based on PDW's
reputation, I was wondering if there was any supportive views. I have the
Superflash now and it works fine, just trying to move to a fender mount
seeing as I have full-time fenders.
Are there any other options out there for
I believe I have had good luck with the Spanninga Pixeo. It is my sole active
illumination to the rear, though I have reflective tape, the Pixeo's reflector,
and an additional reflector on the rear rack.
The Pixeo (dynamo version) is very bright--as bright IMO as some headlights
I've used,
I always purchase lifetime bikes. Problem is, I always sell them for
different lifetime bikes ;)
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:53:04 PM UTC-7, Philip Williamson wrote:
Leaving the steerer long isn't even a trick... Simply do nothing, and it
magically stays long!
I have and love bikes
'til death do us partor some other bike catches my eye
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 4:49:33 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
I always purchase lifetime bikes. Problem is, I always sell them for
different lifetime bikes ;)
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 3:53:04 PM UTC-7, Philip
Every time I see an email in this thread, I think that Microsoft has started
making bicycle parts.
--Eric N
www.CampyOnly.com
CampyOnlyGuy.blogspot.com
Twitter: @CampyOnlyGuy
On Sep 24, 2014, at 3:51 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
Ryan,
Do you have any pics of your setup?
I was looking at the dynamo powered one, but not a fan of the wiring across
the bike. The AAA rears typically last a while w/ rechargeable, so not
worried about that, just the brightness.
Thanks!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 4:37
I used to buy bikes for my lifetime, until I realized that each and every
bike I've had has ridden differently, and I've *liked* the difference. Two
years ago I lost a Trek 560 that I absolutely *loved. *I was going to get
a custom-built replacement, but that ultimately proved unworkable.
Much like guitars, never found anything close to a lifetime bike. In a
related matter, a friend of mine has been through more custom guitars and
custom bikes than I can count. At least 4 custom bikes I know of. His
present passion? Long Haul Trucker with 26 wheels.
I have no problem getting
On 09/24/2014 09:00 PM, Eric Platt wrote:
Much like guitars, never found anything close to a lifetime bike.
Lots of people figured the 54-year-old Gibson Les Paul electric guitar
would fetch more than its $20,000 to $30,000 pre-auction estimate, but
no one knew how much more.
The answer: a
The Edelux lights use optics from BM with the II version having optics
like the new Cyo lights and the original (not II) being like the previous
version of the Cyo (ie IQ not IQ2). Since the reflectors and LEDs are the
same, the beams are too.
Choosing between the two brands is about price and
Last Summer I put together a beautiful LHT that I haven't ridden since I
bought my Atlantis. The only experience I have with the Sam is a quick
ride around the block in Walnut Creek a few years ago; I wish I had taken
it for a longer ride. The double top tube does not bother me, but I prefer
Either way. I don't know how the battery model compares. But if you have
fenders, wiring across the bike is surprisingly easy; I held out for a long
time, but I'm glad I ultimately went that way. YMMV.
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 8:44:28 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com
wrote:
I was
I've had a wired rear light before, and never really like the wire draped
across the bike. I suppose I could deal with it (and should!) but hoping
for a battery option! :-)
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 7:38 PM, Andrew
I have a Spanninga Pixio Xba I am planning to put on my SimpleOne's fender.
I also have a PDW Radbot 1k and a dyno BM TopLight Line.
The Radbot 1K is very bright on axis, but is a single small spot of
brightness. The Pixio is fairly bright though not as bright as the Radbot,
and also seems to
Eric,
That's the version I have too. For the life of me I can't figure out
the difference between the S and T settings on the dial. Of
course O is for Off but anyway. Minor quibble :) This light is
great and I used it again tonight on a very pleasant 42 mile ride,
mostly after dark. I have
Brooks and Ibex are gone, still have (price drops):
- *Small Tan Saddlesack: $90 local. $100 shipped*. A little bit of tire
rub on the bottom but otherwise in great condition and only used for maybe
3 rides or so.
- *26 build kit Velocity wheelset 36: $300 local, $330 shipped.
I don't have a rear rack, so the Toplight wouldn't work out. Thanks though!
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 8:33 PM, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote:
I have a Spanninga Pixio Xba I am planning to put on my SimpleOne's
fender. I
Payment pending on the pedals. Tires still FS. Marathon Supremes are some
great tires. If 32m is all your frame will fit, these are hard to beat! I'd
keep 'em, but have three sets waiting to mount in that size already!
Price drop: $50 gets them to your door (presuming paypal friend payment)!
the Microsoft shifters work great. every once in a while, though, they stop
shifting completely. all you have to do is remove and reinstall them and they
start working again. no big deal.
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I find it weird how you still have to use two fingers on your left hand,
and one on your right to get it going though.
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 9:28 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
the Microsoft shifters work
Do they turn blue when they have a fatal error?
On Wed, Sep 24, 2014 at 11:28 PM, Bill Lindsay tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
the Microsoft shifters work great. every once in a while, though, they stop
shifting completely. all you have to do is remove and reinstall them and
they start working
So of course you should do as you like and go threadless ever and always. I
see absolutely no reason why you shouldn't.
But some of the rest of us find that the bars we want work with quill
stems, and find the range of quill stems available perfectly adequate.
Though threadless has dominated
Sounds more like an investment to me.
Philip
www.biketinker.com
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haha Andrew great comments
I thought my Paul Taylor custom was going to be a lifetime bike, it's
very fast but it's punishing and you can not get anyting over 23mm
under the front fork. The other problem is that it TT is 66mm C-C and
it's threadless so even with the itty bittiest stem is more
There's also some IRD indexed thumbies.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089CHCTI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
-J
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Those IRDs are rebranded Microshifts. They're identical.
On Thu, Sep 25, 2014 at 12:13 AM, justinaug...@gmail.com wrote:
There's also some IRD indexed thumbies.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0089CHCTI/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
-J
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My understanding is that the Microshifts are index-only (no friction option
as with the Shimano / Thumbie option), but that the proprietary ones that
come on Surlys (but are not sold separately) do have the friction option.
Can anyone confirm or deny all or part of this?
Daniel M
Berkeley, CA
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