I really like the dynamo wire routing on the back of the fork leg. I like
the bent fender stays too. A nice little detail to think about, and it's a
little out of the ordinary.
PB
Arlington, VA
On Friday, March 24, 2017 at 11:57:46 AM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> Noticed a couple of shots
I have a Carradice Super C audax, which has plastic quick release buckles
instead of leather buckles like the Barley. It's a good size for those who over
prepare for day rides, or for errands, but it's not quite big enough for me to
commute to work with a change of clothes and toiletries. And
, April 3, 2017 at 11:12:16 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> oops, forgot the jpg file extension.
>
> On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 11:02:13 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I bought one of the bronze Rosco Bubbe frames, and built it up over the
>> last week. It's inaugural ri
high.
On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 1:37:25 PM UTC-4, Chris Birkenmaier wrote:
>
> Beautiful bike and a nice choice of parts on the build! Can I ask you
> what your saddle height is on this bike? Enjoy!
>
> On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 12:09:45 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>>
Tony, I think an old 1" threaded unicrown would be the way to go, but could
be really hard to find one with such a long steerer. Prob most of the
mountain bikes of the late 80s and early 90s that might serve as donors had
shorter headtubes in their largest frame size than the XO-3. Probably
Also, gotta pic of your fork?
On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 1:57:08 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Can the Pacenti MTB crown do a 1" steerer or is it only 1 1/8"?
>
> On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 1:52:07 PM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>>
>> i got clockworks to
Can the Pacenti MTB crown do a 1" steerer or is it only 1 1/8"?
On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 1:52:07 PM UTC-4, Philip Kim wrote:
>
> i got clockworks to do a custom fork. the only trouble is that there are
> less options for fork crowns that can accommodate width.
>
> i got the pacenti MTB
Really sharp! The tire clearance is impressive. Reminds me of a Riv staff bike
I saw on their page. Have you had any chain drop issues, since you're not
running a wide-narrow chainring or retention device?
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Would love to see some pictures of these Roscoe step-thrus. I hemmed and
hawed and worried about the bars being too high, and when I was ready to
pull the trigger, they were all gone.
PB
Arlington, VA
On Wednesday, February 15, 2017 at 12:51:12 PM UTC-5, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> I picked mine up
Thanks Chris, thanks Tony.
On Monday, April 3, 2017 at 3:23:08 PM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> Great looking bike, particularly the mustache bars... don't see enough of
> those!
>
>
>
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and to be far less liable to punctures and damage.
>
> Perhaps the 700C X 38s have a thicker tread? The 559 X 32 (1.25") models
> weighed only 240 grams on a mail scale.
>
> On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 9:19 AM, EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com
> > wrote:
>
>> I
I have 700x38 Panaracer Paselas on my Rosco, in the non-tourguard version.
A new pair go for about $50. I have the same tire in 32 on an RBT and had
1.75s on a Trek 950 before swapping out to Big Bens out of boredom. Most of
my 14 mile daily roundtrip commute is on bike paths and city streets,
Me too. I'd put it on a 1990 Trek 950. What crown to use?
On Thursday, April 13, 2017 at 1:37:30 AM UTC-4, Eamon Nordquist wrote:
>
> If we are talking about 1" threaded, lugged crown, and a decent rake, I
> might be interested. The fork on my 80's Trek Antelope doesn't have as long
> a steerer
I don't know what Riv's word is, but I think what's been suggested so far are
probably all aspects of a comprehensive X factor. Longer chain stays and lower
BBs have long been signature features of Riv frame geometry, and probably in
the service of whatever GP is hinting at. The whole "in the
Finally! A picture of a built-up Red Roscoe! More?
On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 10:02:21 AM UTC-4, Eli Queen wrote:
>
> I'll be riding the 100k w/ a few friends. Should be a great weekend to get
> out of the city, do some camping ... I really can't wait. My 5 year old
> won't be coming along
Here in D.C., we're into our second week of mid-90s with high humidity, so
the heat index has climbed to 100 a few times ... it was 106 last Thursday.
100 is about where I draw the line. Combined with air pollution, a 15 mile
round trip commute downtown in those conditions becomes rather
Yes! With a heat index of 100 downtown, and the pavement simmering, ugh.
But if I can play hooky and ride out to Great Falls under the tree canopy
instead, well that's a nice ride.
On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 1:58:26 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 07/17/2017 12:23 P
I'm in between sizes on the Appaloosa. I asked a fellow list member what
the standover on his 51cm Appaloosa was; he measured 77.5cm with 42mm
tires.
On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 5:12:20 PM UTC-4, RJ March wrote:
>
> This is my first post and I have been driven to it by a (mild)
> desperation.
Perhaps all your hub needs is to be repacked with new grease and adjusted
to take the lateral play out.
Is it a freewheel hub, or a cassette freehub?
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
On Saturday, July 22, 2017 at 3:32:25 PM UTC-4, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Free*wheel* 7-speed cassette
Thanks James, I enjoyed it. Will your shop do another Bridgestone/Rivendell
owners ride this year? I missed last year's.
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Patrick, your mention of "bosque" has me pulling a favorite book from the
shelf to look up the term. It's called *Home Ground: Language for an
American Landscape*.
On Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 5:13:42 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> 22 mile dirt ride today in the Corrales bosque --
John, looks like you had a great time. "Grandma" lives too far away to
babysit our little guy, so my wife and I took him camping with us a few
weeks ago on the C at Antietam Creek, near Harper's Ferry. No bikes this
time, but it won't be long.
On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 12:24:01 AM UTC-4,
I'm with Patrick Moore on this one.
If you didn't replace the bottom bracket when you replaced the crank, I'd
look there. Those old Shimano triples use wide spindles, ~125mm wide. The
Sugino XD2 uses a 107-113, depending on the chainstay width. For your bike,
I would guess anything in the
Can you describe the wheelsets/swapping you do? I have a disc bike, and
with high-quality tires in the 650b x 40-50mm range, I don't anticipate
swapping very often, if at all.
On Wednesday, June 21, 2017 at 1:17:43 PM UTC-4, Jeff wrote:
>
> On Wed, Jun 21, 2017 at 12:34 PM, Garth
To keep the already relatively low bottom bracket drop from going down
further, I believe you'd have to use a tire wider than 42mm/1.75". Like a
RTP or a Big Ben. (The outside diameter of such a wheel is about the same
as a 650b x 42.) In that case, perhaps you'd need wider fenders, and those
>
> Thanks, I changed the BB from 122nn to 113.5mm. The FD easily moves out
> further when pulled by hand.
>
> John Hawrylak
> Woodstown NJ
>
> On Tuesday, May 16, 2017 at 1:08:06 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
>> I'm with Patrick Moore on this one.
>>
>
I'd keep the Hunqapillar. You will have so much fun pulling a trailer with it.
Sam might be more versatile but it'll be easier to find and fund a Sam if you
later regret selling yours. Or just store everything else at the homes of
friends and relatives. :)
Btw, what are the other two bikes?
Thanks, good to know
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Yes, I'm familiar with the published weight limits. I wouldn't put 20 pounds on
either, but if I had to, I'd go with the Nitto's four struts and triangulation,
instead of the bagmans single bolt clamp to the saddle rails.
My experience with the Nitto mini and similar is that the Nitto rating
Hey Bunch,
As I'm putting together a new build, I realized that my Nitto 32f front
rack and Wald 137 basket aren't going to play nicely with my 40cm wide drop
bars. *If *I can squeeze the basket between the brake levers, there won't
be any room for fingers. :( I ride a smaller frame, so
FWIW, I live in a very small house, have a young kid, and built an 8x10
shed to avoid the problem discussed here. I don't know if that's an option
for you, but my shed easily holds my four bikes and a sizable workbench
with repair stand. Plus the rest of the junk of modern life. Dunno if
.jpg
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/30684316@N08/5272326460/
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/30490050@N04/26969880071
>
> Good luck,
> shoji
>
>
> On Thursday, June 1, 2017 at 2:59:45 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I'm considering getting a Marks' Rack to use as a
I'm considering getting a Marks' Rack to use as a saddlebag support, or as
a place strap down a sleeping bag or stuff sack on an upcoming build. But
haven't seen many pictures of it mounted that way. Please post pictures if
you have them.
I'm particularly interested in how it fits on the back
For me, the main appeal of the mountain mixte is that it fits a variety of
riders. With an ~80cm PBH, I'm in between a small and medium on many Riv
models. If I were to go small on a Joe or under 50 on a Hunqapillar, I'd be
too cramped to use swept bars, even with a 130mm stem. But if I were go
+1 for the VP Vice and VP-001s, but I prefer the Vices. The 001's have pins
in the center of the pedal, and I like a slightly concave feel.
On Tuesday, June 13, 2017 at 2:37:09 PM UTC-4, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Daniel,
>
> The Aim's description says it is "dual concave." Does that mean it is
I replaced my 26" Big Ben front tire with a Thunder Burt. I'm enjoying it!
The TB weighs about half as much as the BB, and the knobs give me a little
more control on loose stuff. Cornering and rolling seem unchanged. I'm
keeping the BB on the rear, since it doesn't seem to wear or flat.
--
If you call Riv, please post the answer here. Riv lists the torque spec for
the XD2 on the site, but not for the Silver.
Pete
Arlington, VA
On Wednesday, May 24, 2017 at 10:52:02 AM UTC-4, Ryan Thompson wrote:
>
> The only reason I ask is I've recently had to replace a NDS crankarm from
> a
Michael, it looks GREAT! The most appealing thing to me is that it'd fit me
well :) The refined leather saddle and grips + knobbies is cool, too.
On Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 8:51:52 PM UTC-4, Michael in SF wrote:
>
> I *think* I'm done with fine-tuning. It's *sooo* good! Things worth
>
I own a medium ShopSack. As Jim. S. says, it's very useful when not in the
basket. I use mine to commute. It holds a small tool bag, a change of
clothes, and personal items, with plenty of room to spare. Off the bike,
the handles are the perfect length for either carrying it at your side or
Ok, I think I might have the answer here.
I think you may be under the impression that the recessed nut, and bolt in that
product shot are one piece -- one bolt that threads directly into the brake
arms from the rear of the fork. That is not the case. The wide, unthreaded
portion of what you
Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.
On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the
> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>
> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
Paul Racers are available in a non-recessed version (nutted) and that is
probably what you want if you need to used a Sheldon fender nut. There are
pictures of the non-recessed brake on the Paul site.
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I don't see why not? Sheldon fender nuts are designed to replace the recessed
nut on caliper brakes that use that style. Paul Racers also come in a non
recessed version, if that helps.
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To
OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your
pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components
website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package,
well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces,
I
Someday, I hope to hear Grant's thoughts regarding handlebar height and
trail, alluded to in that article.
*Most of our bikes have trail numbers in the high 50s to low 60s. Combined
with a high handlebar---which I think affects steering a lot, but I'm not
going into that here---the result are
If memory serves, my Brooks Flyer has two pairs of rails, leading from the
top and bottom of each spring to the nose of the saddle. I want to remember
that they come close to touching near the nose, and in my case, rubbed
against one another while pedaling. I wiped some bearing grease on the
I have used the free version of Cyclemeter and I like it, but using any GPS
app drains my iphone battery in a hurry. In cold weather, the phone dies
after a few miles.
I don't care about stats while I'm riding, but it's nice to record a gpx
file of longer rides, as a sort of souvenir. I have
AFAIK, this is a second run of the blue Rosco Bubbe step-thrus. They use
650b wheels and the Appaloosa fork.
On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 11:46:31 AM UTC-4, Mike Williams wrote:
>
> Anyone have any geo info on the mountain mixtes? Sizes? What wheel size
> corresponds with bike size? I
Yep, you both seem to know what I'm after. The disintegrating vest has zip off
arms, but they are too short for on the bike so I took them off years ago. It
an old Illuminite vest; the part that is breaking up is some sort of white
layer between inner mesh and outer nylon. The cut is great
I'm in the market for a new vest for commuting (and 1-2 hour rides). My last
vest was a synthetic kinda breathable number with a liner that has started to
disintegrate, leaving bits of plastic on my inner layers. For that reason I'd
to replace it with something like waxed cotton.
I've read
Patrick thanks for the suggestions. Garth - yes, a full collar, something meant
to be an outer layer.
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I'm not quite ready to give these a go, though I'm sure I'd dig them. For
the time being, I'm a little more curious about their antecedents. Most of
my favorite things about my bikes, much of which I learned about via
Rivendell, are "old" innovations. Were pedals like the Catalyst around
It's probably just me, but I find that if I'm going to go more than a mile
without a turn (i.e., not commuting) I'd prefer drops. After 20 minutes,
the muscles loosen up and I get to feeling bottled up and unsprung without
drops. But if I'm turning a lot, or dealing with traffic, I'd rather
I like the look, especially in combination with the custom lugs of the Frank,
but at only $50 it does raise the what's wrong with it question.
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The long horizontal dropouts on my 53cm Rosco Bubbe road were a big reason
I bought it. Some day I'll reinvent it as a single speed. It's a 1x8 now,
and replaced an old Trek 330 road bike I had converted to fixed/free 12
years earlier.
But even with horizontal dropouts it's a compromise as a
I've used a 120 fixed gear hub in a 130mm frame -- axle spacers will do the
trick. Way back when I bought a wheelset from Sheldon with those spacers,
and put them in an old Trek 330 frame.
Whether the chainline is "off" kind of depends on your ideal chainring/cog
combination. Frames spaced for
n a Salsa
> Casseroll as a fixed gear, and it had 130mm hub spacing. A 42t chainring
> at the appropriate chainline for a track hub (~42mm) never had any
> clearance issues.
>
> On Saturday, December 9, 2017 at 11:11:36 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I'm eager to see the Fr
hainstay length can all help or hurt
> clearance here.
>
> On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 8:58:23 AM UTC-8, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> I agree, how much leeway one has on either side of about a 40t chainring
>> is likely going depend the frame.
>>
>> I used a 120mm
I'm eager to see the Frank Jones on the Blug. Should be any day now?
I hemmed and hawed and bought a 53 rosco road instead -- same thinking as you
and the bob Jackson: 130mm spacing, can be single speeded or geared.
But, again, the drawback of a 120 hub in a 130 frame is gear selection. If you
The only bike I'm sure has "planed" for me was a 1977 Raleigh Grand Prix,
and that was about 10 years before I heard the term. I had built it up as a
fixed gear and I was surprised how light it was, being hi-tensile steel.
Alas, it was a tad long for me in the top tube, and the bottom bracket
My guess is a MIT 1x MB-1ish 27.5 plus Riv. A slightly higher bb. Grant has
said that if you need bigger than 2 inch tire to get a pugsley and a dozen
years the reader mentioned that bike favorably. Hard to imagine a Riv fatbike
though ... discs and all.
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I'm probably reading too much into one word, but did I hear Grant use the
phrase, "dedicated mountain bike"? it's intriguing to think of how such a bike
would differ from a Hunq or a Clem. Maybe clearance for 650b plus tires - which
aren't necessary or imho desirable for pavement riding --
I see thought behind Crust designs. A (relatively) low q-factor fat bike? An
aftermarket cargo fork for 1" threaded steerers? These are unique, interesting
products.
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Even if the bike isn't plus-tired if it's in the stepthru bubbe-Roadini price
range I'll be tempted.
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I missed the new rim hints! So I will stand by my original prediction of a plus
tired capable 27.5 MB-1ish bike with a high by riv standards BB and longish
chainstays.
And a suspension stem :)
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Good point about the rim availability. Just thinking about what would make for
a "dedicated" mtb on Riv's terms. Perhaps it will simply be a MIT Hunq with
longer chainstays. Isn't that a Clem, though? Maybe a threadless stem option,
like the Roadeo? Seems doubtful.
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Anything can make a bike go click but for me it's usually one thing: the bottom
bracket isn't snug enough. Grant mentioned this already and I concur.
Almost every bike I've owned this has popped up, and usually right after I've
installed the BB. I've even used a bit of teflon tape on really
Thanks everyone. The stumper is that I do line up my valves and tire labels to
better identify flats. It's just that the leak is incredibly slow And I just
can't find it via submersion to help direct my search of the tire for the
offending object. I do know that neither the originally punctured
René, I'm local and work downtown. I'd suggest you ride the length of the
national mall one morning (both sides), and around the Tidal Basin and East
Potomac Park another. An out and back trip to Chain Bridge might make a
good third trip if you have a little more time and bring your bike. Head
I love my albatross bars but the key for me is
1: a long stem to let me lean forward, a little less than I would riding the
hoods of a drop bar
2: using them for stop and go downtown commuting at a slow to moderate pace,
and grocery getting. They are called cruiser bars for a reason.
--
You
Gotta see a pic of that Bubbe, please!
On Friday, February 2, 2018 at 11:19:22 AM UTC-5, It's me Ryan wrote:
>
> I just shoved the 50 Cazaderos in my bronze Rosco Bubbe coming from the
> from the 42's...its so sick!
>
> @neil - get the 42 Cazaderos. 100%.
>
>
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I don't have a Sam, but that picture of Roman's bike definitely nudged me
toward getting the bronze Rosco Bubbe road last year. I currently run
700x42 Cazaderos and like them just fine. I also considered the Simworks
Homage and WTB Resolute (42) and the WTB Nano and Schwalbe Smart Sam (40).
So
I'd like to use my actual name but this isn't a 1990s listserv, it's a
publicly searchable group. I'm not famous, or a public figure, or a
teacher. I'd just rather not be an easy target for bad apples with basic
keyword search abilities. That's why I "hide" behind a handle, not because
I want
e people who are really profiting off of linking up all that information
> already are doing so by using their servers and services.
>
> -J
>
> On Feb 1, 2018, 12:57 PM -0800, EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com
> >, wrote:
>
> Hi Norman, I'd just rather limit the ability o
> I'm honestly curious. An 'easy target' for what? I'm having a hard time
> imagining harm coming from what I post here.
>
> Thanks-
> -Norman 'Mostly a good apple' Bone in Portland, OR
>
>
> ------
> *From:* EasyRider <peter...@gmail.com
Kinda surprising that more people haven't done as William, and had disc mounts
added their Atlantis, Hunq, Sam, etc., What would it cost, a few hundred? Plus
repaint? Or maybe get Waterford to make a disc fork? I'd guess that'd be
400-500. Anyway, a lot less than buying a new disc Riv, were one
I just realized my "custom" is actually a stock 52cm cantilever Hilsen with
a custom color. Perhaps a Pear Green, then.
On Wednesday, February 7, 2018 at 12:36:24 PM UTC-5, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Same here, 650b Roadeo with clearance for 38 with fenders. I'm 5'7" and
>
If Riv did a Scapegoat-ish plus bike, that'd be a disc bike, wouldn't it? I
think so, for practical reasons and intended use. The Hubbuh tandem has a disc
mount for a drag brake, so it's not like Riv is morally opposed to the
technology.
FWIW, I get one finger braking with good modulation
For me to buy another Riv? I don't know what it would look like, but it'd
be an oddball like my 53cm Rosco road.
I like the Rosco origin story, and the creativity behind it. It certainly
helped sell me on the bike, no doubt. (The tire clearance, semi-horizontal
drops, price, and tall headtube
Agree that having multiple hand positions -- including an upright one -- is
the key to comfort across a range of riding conditions. That said -- higher
handlebars ARE more comfortable ... IF ones power output isn't very great,
or must be moderated to suit conditions like riding in stop and go
Same here, 650b Roadeo with clearance for 38 with fenders. I'm 5'7" and have a
couple 700c bikes, (RB-T and rosco road, both 53cm). Toe overlap doesn't bother
me that much, but the frame would prob be easier to design, the triangle could
fit bottles and a pump more easily, and it'd look more
Great job, it looks fantastic.
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I find using a Neti pot helps with ear nose and throat ailments. My sore
throats are usually related to post nasal drip and a saline rinse helps clear
me out. Absolutely essential for my seasonal allergies too, as it helps rinse
away pollen.
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Nicely done, I'd have set mine up the same way. Moustache bars are a
practical choice for a singlespeed. Looks like plenty of room for a frame
pump behind the seat tube? Be sure to post pictures with the bars wrapped.
On Tuesday, February 20, 2018 at 8:24:18 PM UTC-5, Belopsky wrote:
>
>
Patrick, for me the benefit of the Neti pot is that it clears out my nasal
passage so excess "stuff" isn't slowly draining. It also seems to head off
stuffy ears. Generally, it makes me feel better. You'll want to use distilled
or boiled water and a saline solution or it will sting a bit and
That is weird. Is it a typo?
Barlow gets my vote, assuming it actually is lighter.
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Got a slow leak in a Big Ben yesterday (1st in ~4,000 miles on this tire) and
went about fixing it. Flats are rare for me so I take my time finding the
cause. I thought I had - a tiny wire on the inside of the tire, which I plucked
and then finished checking for any others. I used a new tube
Paul, I think you're wise to borrow one first. These front seats tend to
work best with large frames/top tubes. If you are about my size (PBH ~79),
you may decide to wait for the Rosco Bebe or to get that trailer a little
sooner.
I can only speak to the iBert, but after installing one on my
I have an NFE and a Roscoe Road, which is not unlike the MIT Homer, I imagine.
I love them both and they feel quite different to me. The BB drop of the Riv is
very noticeable when I get underway and then the bike disappears under me. The
NFE doesn't toodle as well as the roscoe. It seems to
I predict HIGH demand for such a rack.
I've used and broken the cheapo Sunlite front rack. Dunno if the design has
changed since, but the diving board was very cheap and broke suddenly. It was
not overloaded; I think it was actually empty when it failed. It didn't fall
forward onto the wheel,
Bill, you make a good point about Nitto's conservative weight ratings can make
it seem like other manufacturers racks, of similar design, are stronger, when
in reality they're designed for the same purpose and should probably be treated
as equals from safety perspective.
I use a different
I have an Ex Oficio boonie hat that is just ok. On re plus side, it's shaped a
little diff than a boonie to give more neck coverage, and it's very light,
unlike a surplus store boonie, which just traps heat. The downside is the
sizing is coarse and the brim is not really shapeable. I think here
Yep, I think that might be part of the problem. Nitto knows best so if they say
it's because the rack is getting overloaded, ok. But unlike the Marks and 32f
mini, the level of the m12 platform is not adjustable unless some part gets
bent. (Those other racks have fork brackets or p clamps for
Riv has said that these cranks aren't 10 speed compatible and others have said
it's because the xd2 spider spaces the rings a bit too wide for 10 speed setups
(either the narrower chain falls into the gap between rings or an indexed FD
doesn't push the chain sideways enough to make the shift,
middle position and a 28 in the granny/inside
> position; no outer (there's a guard there instead). But no problems
> shifting between the inner 2 rings with 10 speed chains.
>
> On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 8:11 AM, EasyRider > wrote:
>
>> Thanks everyone.
>>
>>
My Tiagras are a bit too narrow, my Cane Creek SCR-5s are too wide. Is there an
in between I could try?
Pete
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dle of those two, but I've never measured.
>
> If we're talking about the hoods, I've added an extra wrap or two of bar
> tape underneath to beef 'em up a bit, so maybe try this with the Tiagras?
>
> Jeff Hagedorn
> Los Angeles, CA USA
>
> On Monday, March 12, 2018 at 5:58:27
Thanks Tim. I'm using the cane creeks on a short reach soma highway 1 bar so
these tektros would prob work ok.
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The coral and amethyst smoke colors of these two bikes are great together!
Which one is Tubbs and which one is Crockett?
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Your description of the similarities between the Quickbeam and Atlantis makes
me wonder if my Bubbe road is in the same neighborhood, as it was designed
around a SmpleOne fork and prob has stouter tubing than the Quickbeam. It's
Quickbeam genes were a major reason I bought it. It's not "lively"
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